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Messages - Rabbit79

Pages: [1] 2 3 4 5 ... 13
1
General / Re: What did you do to your car today?
« on: May 19, 2018, 06:20:26 pm »
What no gasket between block and plate?  Going to be weepy I fear.
Oh there's a gasket there, and said gasket is gooped up with Ultra Blue. Should be no problems.

2
General / Re: What did you do to your car today?
« on: May 15, 2018, 10:33:09 am »
Today I finally put a vane style vacuum pump on the old Rabbit...... For whatever reason the old pump started burning through diaphragms. Sometimes I'd get 3 months out of a diaphragm, sometimes they'd barely last a week. Even replaced that pump with a used one and it was even worse, so I went back to my original. Pretty easy switch-over. The hardest part was manufacturing a blank off plate for where the oil hose came out of the block. I just took a piece of 1/4 inch plate I had laying around, cut it to shape, drilled the holes, and painted it. Took longer for the paint to dry than anything else. Hopefully I will now have years of trouble free vacuum assisted braking in my future.

3
IDI Engine / Re: Just curious...
« on: April 01, 2018, 04:01:30 pm »
I remember doing some research on this back when they made the switch to ultra low sulfur diesel. It was kind of hard to sift through all the manufacturer claims and every guy championing his own particular product that he liked to use, but I did come across some independent study that listed a product called Opti-Lube XPD as the best off the shelf product. I never have had a chance to use it because nobody sells it here where I live. For my part I put in an additive made by Redline, which I can't remember the name of at the moment. Mostly what I look for is something that helps lubricate the pump, as that was what the sulfur in the old high sulfur diesel did. I can't say that I'm loyal to any one brand, the Redline stuff just happens to be what I can find here in my little town. Seems to work ok, at least I can't say I've had any problems since they switched to ULSD.

4
IDI Engine / Re: Head Bolts or Studs (1588)
« on: January 24, 2018, 12:40:09 am »
I have studs and I must say I like them. My situation may be somewhat unique, because last time I had the head off I stripped one of the holes in the block when I did the 1000 mile torque on the head bolts. I thought I would have to get a new block, but I put a heli-coil in and used studs instead. I got Raceware studs, which I think are even more expensive than ARP studs. With the Raceware studs you just screw them into the block hand tight. I thought maybe doing it that way would put less rotational stress on the heli-coil. Whether it does or not I can't say for sure, as I'm no engineer, but it made me feel better about it  hehe. Anyway, they've been in there 5 years or so now, and I haven't had any problems. Plus they're re-usable, and since I live in the middle of nowhere, if I ever need new head bolts I have to order them, which usually always takes a week or so to get here. While that may not be an important selling point to some, I kind of like it.

5
IDI Engine / Re: Theft. Switch. Silinoid ip pump
« on: January 12, 2018, 12:32:37 am »
The seatbelt/starter lockout system cuts off voltage to the starter, so you would not be able to jump start it with the conventional battery to battery style of jump start. You could however just put voltage directly to the starter and get it going that way.

6
IDI Engine / Re: 1.5 Diesel cutting out under acceleration
« on: November 26, 2017, 06:11:48 pm »
Best advice I can give is to check alternator output with a volt meter. Just put your meter leads on the battery terminals and with the alternator up and running and no lights or anything turned on they usually run in the 13.5 to 14.5 range. Rev the engine to see what happens when your RPMs go up. Also check the battery ground strap where it's attached to the transmission mount. Sometimes you can get corrosion down there which adds in some resistance and can cause all kinds of electrical mischief. I clean that area with a wire brush and then spray some of that battery corrosion preventive compound on it to seal it up.

7
Upgrades (non engine related ) / Re: Lifting the Sagging Caddy
« on: July 13, 2017, 09:29:47 pm »
Here a while back I was checking into some overload springs for my F-250, and talking to the boys down at Les Schwab they said everybody's using air bags now. That might be something to check into.

8
IDI Engine / Re: Play in the Intermediate Shaft
« on: June 07, 2017, 01:44:19 am »
Just a guess but I kind of agree with you that trying to tilt the engine might be a bit iffy. I just went out and looked at mine and I notice the IM shaft sits down pretty low on the engine and you might have to get it to a pretty significant angle to get the shaft out. In addition to removing 3 of the motor mounts I see all kinds of stuff that you may or may not have to remove as well..... shift linkage, drive shafts, radiator hoses, exhaust. Never have tried it but it could be that by the time you get it to where it will tilt far enough you may be 90% toward having the engine out anyway.

9
MK1 Golf/Jetta and B1 Dasher / Re: blinker issues
« on: March 06, 2017, 04:34:29 pm »
According to what I see in the Bentley wiring schematic, there's one wire that carries juice from the turn signal switch to both rear turn signals, at some point it branches out (unfortunately the Bentley doesn't say where exactly, but I suspect it's somewhere in the back) to each individual turn signal. This tells me that your switch and the wiring for the left signal are all good, and your problem lies somewhere in between the point where that wire branches and the turn signal. If it were me that's what I'd check first.

In looking back on this post I got to thinking about it, and I thought 'that can't be right, because if it were wired that way then both rear turn signals would be on at the same time'. I re-checked my Bentley wiring schematic... but that is exactly what it shows. (Section 6, electrical system, page 152, tracks 72 and 73). I checked back through the text and found another schematic for the turn signals on page 35 of section 6. That one shows the same single wire coming out of the turn signal switch, but in this one it branches to the RIGHT FRONT and right rear turn signals. So.... I still suspect you have a problem in between the point where that circuit branches and your right rear turn signal, although now I suspect it branches somewhere up front. As for the Bentley, they appear to have mis-labled the lights in the schematic on page 152, they should branch side to side and not front and back. I'd suggest using the schematic on page 35, it's a little more detailed anyway.

10
MK1 Golf/Jetta and B1 Dasher / Re: blinker issues
« on: February 24, 2017, 05:46:28 pm »
You should be able to gain access to the switch by taking off the plastic covers over the steering column. I was doing some troubleshooting on mine just a couple weeks ago and that's all I had to do. If you want to take it completely out though, yes, you do have to remove the steering wheel.

According to what I see in the Bentley wiring schematic, there's one wire that carries juice from the turn signal switch to both rear turn signals, at some point it branches out (unfortunately the Bentley doesn't say where exactly, but I suspect it's somewhere in the back) to each individual turn signal. This tells me that your switch and the wiring for the left signal are all good, and your problem lies somewhere in between the point where that wire branches and the turn signal. If it were me that's what I'd check first.

11
IDI Engine / Re: Head gasket fix in a bottle?
« on: February 14, 2017, 11:07:46 pm »
I've used some stuff called 'Bars Leaks' in the past for problems like that. Not sure if you're asking about something to put on the head gasket or a coolant additive, but this particular stuff goes in the coolant. Never had to use it on the v-dub, but I've used it on other things. Seems to work good.

12
IDI Engine / Re: Where to buy quality vw diesel parts in Canada?
« on: February 02, 2017, 01:10:46 pm »
In my experience a lot of the stuff seems to come from the same suppliers, whether you buy from your local parts store or from places like AutohausAZ or PartsPlace. It's probably all made in China no matter who supplies it, so there's not much way to get around that.

13
IDI Engine / Re: Printed circuit repair
« on: January 24, 2017, 12:03:19 am »
This actually ended up being easier than I thought it would be. I followed Spokerider's suggestion and checked out some circuit board repair videos on youtube, couldn't find anything specific to VWs, but there were plenty on just general PCB repair. I was missing about an inch or so of conductor, so I pulled out 2 strands from a piece of 10 gauge wire and twisted them together. The broken spot is right where it makes a loop around a screw, so I had to shape the wire to fit into that spot, then I taped it in place. When soldering I put the solder on the connection of the wire and the circuit trace and then came in on top of it with the soldering iron, just long enough to get the solder to melt. Worked like a charm. All that's left is to seal over it with some epoxy, which I don't happen to have any so I'll have to get some tomorrow. Thanks for the help everyone.

Edit: I used liquid electrical tape to seal over the repair. I figured if I ever have to go back in there to fix it again the liquid electrical tape will be easier to scrape off than epoxy.

14
IDI Engine / Printed circuit repair
« on: January 22, 2017, 02:36:13 am »
Has anyone ever attempted to repair the printed circuit that goes on the back of the dash instrument cluster? If so how did you do it and how did it hold up? Mine has a break in one of the conductors and I was thinking I might be able to solder a couple strands of wire in there, but I'm afraid that thing might be a bit too delicate to withstand the heat of a soldering iron. So if you have a better plan..... let me hear it. 

15
General / Re: What did you do to your car today?
« on: January 19, 2017, 12:55:43 pm »
You may have been right, ORCoaster, but we may never know because it has fixed itself somehow. As far as being frozen up, we had another cold spell about 2 weeks before this last one and it worked fine all through that, so who knows. I did notice the rain tray was packed full of snow, maybe a chunk of ice got down in there and caused some mischief. While I don't mind when a problem fixes itself, bad thing about that is they usually turn up again right when you don't need them to. By the way it's up to a balmy 28 degrees today.... feels like a veritable heat wave out there.  hehe

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