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Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: kenny.kernaghan.7 on November 10, 2016, 04:17:53 am
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Hey guys looking for some info I have a mk2 golf gtd sb engine code done timing belt clutch glow plugs sorted a lot of gremlins but she's still struggling to start a bit of cold start and she's off and runs nice and smooth no issues at all put just can't get her to go off the key on her own any ideas
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Check the compression.
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wont be compression if it runs cleanly once started...if compression was down it'll still start but blow white smoke for a few minutes.
Curveball here - but check that the fuel solenoid is still getting 12v when you turn the key from run to start position - the switch can go faulty and you loose the feed to the solenoid on the last 'click' of the key.
Or hook it up direct to battery with a temporary wire - you will have to remove the wire to stop the engine though.
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wont be compression if it runs cleanly once started...if compression was down it'll still start but blow white smoke for a few minutes.
Curveball here - but check that the fuel solenoid is still getting 12v when you turn the key from run to start position - the switch can go faulty and you loose the feed to the solenoid on the last 'click' of the key.
Or hook it up direct to battery with a temporary wire - you will have to remove the wire to stop the engine though.
Thanks for the reply but I'm not gonna lie I wouldn't know what I was looking for the diesel thing is new to me ill have a Google see if I can get a pic to work from I miss gti's lol
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First thing I'd do is check and make sure you're getting voltage on the glow plug bus bar. New glow plugs are fine and dandy but they don't do a bit of good if they're not getting any juice.
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wont be compression if it runs cleanly once started...if compression was down it'll still start but blow white smoke for a few minutes.
Curveball here - but check that the fuel solenoid is still getting 12v when you turn the key from run to start position - the switch can go faulty and you loose the feed to the solenoid on the last 'click' of the key.
Or hook it up direct to battery with a temporary wire - you will have to remove the wire to stop the engine though.
Thanks for the reply but I'm not gonna lie I wouldn't know what I was looking for the diesel thing is new to me ill have a Google see if I can get a pic to work from I miss gti's lol
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Kenny,
When you get it started - does it smoke white or run and idle clean?
The fuel solenoid is a round thing with a single electrical connection on the diesel pump just above where the injector lines fit to the injection pump. It needs to have a 12v feed at all times for the pump to inject diesel. A single wire from battery positive to the spade on the fuel solenoid will eliminate a possible common fault.
Likewise check you have 12v on the glow plugs as mentioned above but a gtd will normally start with no glow plugs working but chuck out clouds of white smoke before it starts and for up to 30 seconds once it does start.
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Ah I know the wire you mean now I'll test them both for 12v see what I'm getting no smoke as such a small amount on start up but goes fine after that
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Low compression will not give you white smoke after the initial puff and many older good diesels do that. Having one hole that is low will give you white smoke until that cylinder gets warm enough to begin firing. VW IDIs will start down to 250 psi when the weather is warm. They will be down on power and fuel consumption will be higher but no other symptoms. In the fall they quit starting. You can however tow start them quite easily. Its all about cranking speed. A dragging starter, weak battery, or punk cables will all cause one of these to crank slower than it should. Towing you can spin the crap out of them. In July not usually a problem; In November, not so much.
FWIW I assumed that you had made sure the GPs were getting voltage when you changed them. That is the FIRST thing to check.
One other sign of low compression is that once lit off it will run and start fine until it cools off overnight.
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What is your battery condition? I had a MK2 that had similar issues. It didn't really seem to crank slowly, and the glow plugs were working but it was harder for it to fire than I thought it should be. I got an Interstate battery from my favourite wrecking yard (not new obviously but checked out good) and my problems went away. The existing battery went into one of my gassers and ran for over a year in that with no issues. I just needed that little extra when cranking - the newer battery gave me that. Diesels need a top notch battery. Quick way to check this out would be to see if it starts better while the battery is being boosted. I'm assuming that all grounds are top notch and cables are newer? I've also had corrosion inside the ground cables give me similar problems. If that's the cause it will keep getting worse and eventually just stop cranking.
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just cause glow plugs are getting voltage at bus bar doesnot verify, just as has been pointed out at solenoid or like, partial current may be flowing. also by hooking up a voltmeter its completing a partially 'false' circuit, it will tell you the first of the steps for glow plugs troubleshooting, voltage is there, not if its being used, in -0- glowplugs, or say 1 or 2. have to keep on going to make sure glowplugs are actually getting hot enough, each, usually.
i dont see why you cannt have low compression that will make hard starting with out much, or little cold smoke, check compression anyways. is a symptom of his/your problem. a little puff of cold smoke can easily and possibly normally be cold fuel smoke, but check. just do one thing right, realize how injectors come out and go back in, find the info on how to hold breaker bar to, so you dont crack inj (weak)(&supposed) bosses. and lose head. oh and when putting back in it would be best to there use a torque wrench.51 i think.