VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.
Engine Specific Info and Questions => TDI Engine -General Info => Topic started by: Vento G60 on December 05, 2007, 03:27:37 pm
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Hello everybody. Let me first introduce myself as this is my first post on this forum.
I'm Sander, 30 years old, and a complete VW-nut. I live in a town called Beuningen in the Netherlands and own 2 VW's:
A '94 Vento (in US called jetta mk3), with originally a 1.8 90hp engine, and now converted to a G60 engine (3 years ago), with modded exhaust, G-charger (selft rebuilt and flowed) 68 pully, chip and FMIC. Should chuck out about 200 hp and 300 Nm of torque.
A '80 golf convertible mk1, originally a 1.5 gasser engine, converted first to 1.6 D, then converting that engine to a TD with IC and some pump mods (lda pin, governor spring mod, wastegate closed running @ 1.6 Bar). Now, after the head gasket blew (after giving a BMW 318TDS a very hard time till around 170 kmh and keeping the pedal down for about 25 km's straight) I've put in an AHU tdi engine from an mk3 golf.
Here is were the trouble starts. After reading a lot about m-tdi's on this forum, I decided to go for it, with help from my friend Bert, who is also on this forum sometimes. I would build in the TDI myself and he would build me a pump that would work with it.
So the way it is now: I have the AHU in, with original AHU nozzles, a rebuilt KKK K24 turbo, a 60 mm exhaust till the rear wheels, going into a 54 mm muffler for a TD mk1. The pump that Bert built for me is a hybrid from a 1.9 D (1Y) pump housing, governor, tension lever and governor lever assembly, the rollers, camdisc, the control sleeve and plunger assembly come from a tdi pump, the plunger is 11 mm. The current static timing is 1.10. The pumphead is of a 1.6 GTD (the 80 hp version) with LDA.
It starts up (without the glow plugs) at first turn of the key, runs smoothly through it's rpm's (no tacho, so don't know exact rpm's), and makes a normal diesel engine noise apart from the fact that it has a cone filter.
After starting to set the fuel screw (full load adjusting screw) and the residual fuel screw accordingly, the engine would develop more hp, untill I reached a point where the rpm's wouldn't go down smoothly after revving, this was after turning in the fuel screw 1/4 of a turn from the last (not so powerfull) setting. Now I turned the fuel screw bak in untill the revs would stop hanging, but then I have almost stock 1.9 D power. By turning it in a little more, the power increases, but certainly not to the same as it was with the 1.6 TD engine with upgrades. Now I have to shift very fast, to not have the engine hang in rpm's when shifting. When in 5th gear (4T type gearbox of a 1.6 GTD), going at a speed of 100 kmh and over, the rpm's come down real slow.
Now I've modded the pump with the governor spring mod, cutting out the intermediate spring, and I've put on a TDI advance timing spring cover and spring, I've also turned the star wheel on the LDA all the way down and the LDA pin is turned 180 degrees from it's original position. The governor mod made the rpm range a little bit longer, a little more hp (so it feels), and also al little wider powerband as for the torque. The advanced spring and cover swap just made it run a little more quiet. On changing the LDA spring load and turning the LDA pin it just seems to make a difference in low rpm's, torquewise. Now it makes about 1 Bar of boost at 140 kmh and over (3500 rpm and on). No IC yet.
I am sure (and so is Bert) that this engine should be able to make more hp with this pump, but we are just missing something. I've been searching a long time on this forum, but couldn't get the answer to the following questions, could any of you please help me with these?
1. I read everywhere that once the pump starts to hang in rpm's, you should turn the full load fuel screw back in, but just what is it that causes the hanging in rpm's? I can't imagine what it could be, because the control sleeve is mechanically forced back to stationary position, and that is the only way to raise the rpm's, or am I wrong?
2. Are there any others with a K24 on a AHU and what boost does it achieve?
3. Being in Europe, I can probably get my hands on all sorts of pumps to put on this engine. Could someone tell me what bosch pump codes to look for, on what engines they were supplied and how plug and play they are?
Sorry for writing such a terribly long story, I hope someone can get through it and maybe help me with my questions.
Thanks in advance,
Best Regards from Holland,
Sander aka Vento G60
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Put the intermediate spring in and only shim the main spring.
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If your pump is assembled with the control of idle on the throtle shaft,
probably that the governor shaft is not shimmed correctly, when you add more turn on the fuel screw, you need to unscrew the idle, but the governor shaft is in the end of its travel and cannot control the RPM any more.
Add a bigger shim behind the governor carrier, but when you play with these shim, that affect the travel of the feeler finger boost pin, there are it have different longor of it.
If it is not the problem, that can be the idle spring which is too hard or too soft.
To do-it when I built a M-pump, I have an open LDA to see in the pump which occurs when it is assembled, that facilitates largely the assembly.
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First, thanks you guys for your replies. But maybe I haven't been clear about my problem.
The hanging in rpm's already occurred when the governor spring assembly was still original and unshimmed. After modding the governor spring assembly by cutting the intermediate spring out with shims, the only thing that changed was that the engine had a wider powerband, before the mod it would cut out at higher rpm's (3000 and on), after the mod it pulled on till about 4000 rpm.
So does anybody know what the hanging of the rpm's could have been caused by? I guess it should be something else than the governor spring assembly, because the hanging in rpm's didn't change with the mod, also taking off the pressure feed line of the LDA doesn't change anything. So in my opinion it should be something in the pump.
What is it that makes a normal 1.6 TD hang in rpm when you turn in the fuel screw too much?
Thanks again for your replies.
Greets Sander
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Throttle lever off 1 spline so that residual fuel screw can't be adjusted out enough?
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Thanks again Jim for your reply. I had to put the throttle lever in another position so I could adjust the residual fuel screw again, because it was all the way in, the throttle lever was touching the housing where the screw sits.
After that, I could turn in the full load screw more and back off the idle rpms with the residual fuel screw.
Before turning the throttle lever it didn't hang in rpms, but it also wouldn't really go!
So what could it be? Turn the throttle lever back to its old setting, but then I don't have any power, or not much at the least.
Thanks again.
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Thanks again Jim for your reply. I had to put the throttle lever in another position so I could adjust the residual fuel screw again, because it was all the way in, the throttle lever was touching the housing where the screw sits.
After that, I could turn in the full load screw more and back off the idle rpms with the residual fuel screw.
Before turning the throttle lever it didn't hang in rpms, but it also wouldn't really go!
So what could it be? Turn the throttle lever back to its old setting, but then I don't have any power, or not much at the least.
Thanks again.
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Thanks again Jim for your reply. I had to put the throttle lever in another position so I could adjust the residual fuel screw again, because it was all the way in, the throttle lever was touching the housing where the screw sits.
After that, I could turn in the full load screw more and back off the idle rpms with the residual fuel screw.
Before turning the throttle lever it didn't hang in rpms, but it also wouldn't really go!
So what could it be? Turn the throttle lever back to its old setting, but then I don't have any power, or not much at the least.
Thanks again.
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the governor shaft is not shimmed correctly, when you add more turn on the fuel screw, you need to unscrew the idle, but the governor shaft is in the end of its travel and cannot control the RPM any more.
It's difficult for me to explain what causes this problem and how to correct it because the english is not my first language, But I know exactly what occurs in your pump.
As I said in my first post, and you does not seem to understand what I explained, the problem is improper shim behind the governor carrier, or improper cap on the governor tube.
Other thing concern the idle spring, but, all my explanation is coorect only if you have the idle control on the throttle lever, not like a 1.6TD.
If the fuel screw is screwed at the maximum When the problem appears, It's normal, in this case, you need to change or adjust pieces in the pump to give more fueling reserve.
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OOps, the last reply shouldn't have been placed 3 times. My internet cut out and I wasn't able to reach the forum.
Tintin: I've already read a lot of your posts on this forum, and I think you really know what you are talking about, especially regarding m-tdi pumps. As so I very much appreciate your reaction, but unfortunately I don't understand at the moment precisely what you mean.
My governor assembly is about the same as the one in the picture in this link. Could you explain maybe from this picture what you mean?
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/10/web/418000-418999/418501_13_full.jpg
Thanks again!
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Martin,
Since you and I are "close" on this, maybe I can take a stab of explaining what you mean here later on. I am at work, don't have all the time right now to do it...but it is an important thing to consider. I think I can help out.
Also, throttle shaft indexing, if not properly set will cause the RPM's to hang as well.
Joe
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my Mtdi pump dose the same and from the info here ,i need to put a nother shim between the square washer and round one at the start of the govner, so it shimes the hole govner forward , nearer to the control lever
, so when the engine is at 1000rpm idle no load there will be more forse aplying on the control lever , that means i can turn up my fuel max screw with out the revs hanging on , is this right and if so what thickness of shim in needed
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Ok, but I still don't understand how shimming the governor so it sticks out of the caged assembly more (this is what I understand I should do) would do any good? The same effect could be reached by putting the throttle lever on another position on the throttle shaft, or am I thinking in the wrong way now?
Please guys, Martin and Joe, help me out here!
Greets Sander
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or you can shim the nose (the bit that pushes the control lever back gov side) or washer at the other end of the rod. i beleve this is right
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or you can shim the nose (the bit that pushes the control lever back gov side) or washer at the other end of the rod. i beleve this is right
This is correct.
Readjusting, or reindexing rather the throttle shaft into a different position does not do anything for the gov. assembly itself. Also, it can only be reindexed so far until you really start fouling the idle circuit and you get a s similar "hanging" rpm situation. I had this problem when I first started the mTDI up initially.
Haven't had much time to post...maybe more later. Beat from grad school work/finals at the moment.
Joe
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It's complicated to exlain........ for first before reshimming anything, what sort of idle control you have?
Normally when one built M-pump or pumps, It's very important to measure, check and take and adjust some moving parts inside the pump to ensure that all the pieces is in the spec and/or to make sure that all the pumps fonctionnality work well or all the maxed parts work according with other parts.
After this...... it remains to adjust the pump.
There are too much thing inside the pump to explain one by one, that would take one day.
For hanging RPM...... if I would have the pump in my hand, I would regulate it in 10 minutes, but to regulate it on a post, it is more difficult.
1: make sure that the idle system work properly, or if it have the correct spring hardness if the spring is mounted on the control shaft.
2: no interference between maxed parts.
3: governor tube move enought to control (regulate) all the distance of the lever range.
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I build the pump for Sander. I have experienced more of these problems with pumps that where build of IDI stuff.
The problem is within the control leaver and trottle shaft.
(http://www.zwalve.eu/d/669-2/dsc05373.jpg)
For the control leaver (is this the english word for the part?)
On the side there is a different offset between the holes. On a bigger DI of IDI pump the offset between the mountinghole (with the triangle head bolt) is a lot smaller than on our IDI pumps.
I will illustrate it tonight with pictures. The problem is that much of the controlleavers aren't interchangable with our pumps. The problem is that the govenor is on the other side.
I tried modifying an older IDI part with changed offset of the holes. But the material of the contol leaver is so damn hard I killed a drill.
The arm length of the trottle shaft is also different. On ours the length is shorter than on a bigger IDI or DI pump. This is not the biggest problem, cut them appart and weld it again.
Does anyone from you knows which control leaver can be used in custom pumps? Or do I have to make them myself.
I also use a cut-open pump to see the settings and how to shim the nessesary parts.
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Ford Transit 2.5DI pump have the best control lever that I never found.
I know the material of this lever is very hard, but I have a hard drill set and I am able to bore them to modify them.
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@Tintin, have you got a pump nr from that ford pump?
I can put it on the milling machine, but that's going to be around christmas.
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It is amazing the number of different pumps, etc. available on the other side of the pond that would make the mTDI conversion so much easier. Still though...modification in the end.
Shimming of the gov. and the overall governor mod is def. important but depending on your setup, like DA-BRT and TinTin mention there are modifications that need to be done to the control lever assembly itself (as illustrated above). However, the control lever involves and effects more of the "full throttle response" vs. hanging RPM problems in my experience. Using the stock IDI control lever assembly seriously limits your fueling potential of the pump on an mTDI. That is just one factor.
I'd like to see how one of our "mTDI" pumps would perform on a test bench ... that'd be nice. No one around here will test outside factory Bosch parameters though. I'd like to have my pump tested... but I haven't even found someone to pop and reshim my injectors for the R520's currently installed!!!
Joe
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It is amazing the number of different pumps, etc. available on the other side of the pond that would make the mTDI conversion so much easier. Still though...modification in the end.
Shimming of the gov. and the overall governor mod is def. important but depending on your setup, like DA-BRT and TinTin mention there are modifications that need to be done to the control lever assembly itself (as illustrated above). However, the control lever involves and effects more of the "full throttle response" vs. hanging RPM problems in my experience. Using the stock IDI control lever assembly seriously limits your fueling potential of the pump on an mTDI. That is just one factor.
I'd like to see how one of our "mTDI" pumps would perform on a test bench ... that'd be nice. No one around here will test outside factory Bosch parameters though. I'd like to have my pump tested... but I haven't even found someone to pop and reshim my injectors for the R520's currently installed!!!
Joe
Send it to Giles :D I'm sure he could hook you up with a read out from your pump.
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Transit 2.5DI pump: 0 460 414 052 Basically It's a N/A pump with RPM fueling compasator, It's a weird pump, but If you put a LDA of other pump on it, like 1.6/1.9TD, that will give a nice M-TDI pump.
http://cgi.ebay.de/Einspritzpumpe-fuer-Ford-Transit-Bj-88-2-5l-70PS_W0QQitemZ180193331894QQihZ008QQcategoryZ61258QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
http://cgi.ebay.de/Einspritzpumpe-Ford-Transit-2-5-51-KW-0460414073_W0QQitemZ260192466280QQihZ016QQcategoryZ61258QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
http://cgi.ebay.de/Einspritzpumpe-f-Ford-Transit-2-5L-Diesel-51KW-7301_W0QQitemZ180194402445QQihZ008QQcategoryZ61258QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
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Or, check this, It's a ducato 2.5TDI pump, direct fit without modification or adjustment, this pump have the same came plate than the TDI VW.
It's expensive but that will give a lot of power: http://cgi.ebay.de/Einspritzpumpe-Fiat-Ducato-230-2-5L-TDI-1291_W0QQitemZ180190208821QQihZ008QQcategoryZ61258QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
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Guys, thanks for all the reply's here. I haven't been able to pry my computer out of my girlfriends fingers, she's hooked to some kind of tetris game on the net...... :evil:
But, I did try this week to re-index the throttle shaft lever. I ended up re-indexing it so that the idle screw (I mean the one that blocks the throttle lever, and you set the idle with) was turned in much more than before. Strange thing was, that with the max fuel screw untouched (so at the same setting as before re-indexing the throttle shaft), it would pull harder, but also hang in rpm's more! :? So now I just turned the max fuel screw back out a bit to keep it driveable, and it pulls roughly the same, or maybe a bit harder than it did before re-indexing.
When I was adjusting the throttle shaft, without the lever being on, I could turn the shaft by hand, in the first quarter of the turn, it seems to have no resistance at al, but in the part after that, I could feel that I was compressing a spring. That would be the spring in the governor lever assembly? Because I think the resistance to turn it was to light for being the governor spring I modified. I think tonight I'm going to try to re-index the throttle shaft so that the idle screw is set almost all the way in, so I have the longest stroke on the lever with my gas pedal. Maybe that will help a little. I'll post my findings when I'm finished.
Bert, I'll be dropping by soon, so you can finally have a drive and tell me how you think my little cabbie is running. Maybe I'm expecting to much of her with the short tranny and without the use of an IC....
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I can tell you right there that the symptoms you are now experiencing by reindexing the throttle shaft do indicate that you have some shimming and work to do on the control lever assembly (as referenced above).
Been there :)
Joe
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Step by step.
@TinTin: Thanks for the pump number I'm going to order the control leaver of the Ford pump
This week I'm going to modify the control leaver and trottle shaft leaver. After that shimming the pump on a test pump housing.
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Step by step.
@TinTin: Thanks for the pump number I'm going to order the control leaver of the Ford pump
This week I'm going to modify the control leaver and trottle shaft leaver. After that shimming the pump on a test pump housing.
Where/How are you finding the ability to buy the pump parts individually and without them costing a SMALL fortune? Last time a friend and I tried to price misc pieces like throttle shafts, control lever assemblies, etc. we were looking at insane prices!!!
Joe
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Step by step.
@TinTin: Thanks for the pump number I'm going to order the control leaver of the Ford pump
This week I'm going to modify the control leaver and trottle shaft leaver. After that shimming the pump on a test pump housing.
Where/How are you finding the ability to buy the pump parts individually and without them costing a SMALL fortune? Last time a friend and I tried to price misc pieces like throttle shafts, control lever assemblies, etc. we were looking at insane prices!!!
Joe
I agree, I already bought some parts at my local bosch dealer, and It's expensive, the most of the part I need are not used in America, they must make a special order in Germany and I must pay some shipping.
There is another way, a chinese parts, and lever cost around 10$, but it's necessary to buy 100 + parts of them, it do not sell these parts separetely.
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Hmm...to go into business making mTDI pumps, etc...this would be a worthwhile venture if the chinese parts were up to par...but, then...who of us has time!!!
Martin, haven't forgotten about you either...just haven't had the time to reply/look yet.
Joe
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A good friend of mine ownes a bosch dealership. The prices are ok. Biggest problem is getting the good parts. There are documents at the bosch dealer where they can look up the individual partnummers when they got a pump number.
I've been searching the programm for 12mm mechanical pumps, now got the number for the control leaver from the VW LT pump and the Ford pump Tintin mentioned. When they are not ok I send them back. (I don't know if it's my privelige of doing that?)
Any how as soon as I located for what I think is the correct control leaver and trottle shaft I post the bosch part numbers in this topic.
I think Sander will keep you posted about the Cabby and how the engine runs.
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I found this pump on ebay, is it any good?
Unknown VAG Einspritzpumpe
Diesel
Unknown condition
PArt numbers:
0 460 424 125
R660
770
130342
23734
Also. re-indexing the throttle shaft as I described in an earlier post, doesn't bring that much, I can make the throttle shaft turn a little more, but can't feel any power increase in the last part of the throttle..
I will be waiting for Bert to make progress with the control lever, and we'll see what that will do. I don't know what else I could do to the pump at this moment to improve things.
Maybe the pump which I posted above is a good option?
Sander
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DA-BRT, if you need part number, I have the program wich show all the pump parts number with pump reference number.
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0-460-424-125 It's a Iveco daily 2.8L pump, 1800rpm (3600rpm engine)
240B inj.
I think that it is a very good pump.
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@Tintin: Thanks for the offer. I got a good source of numbers and pumps myself. But if I can't find what I need, I'll send you a PM.
@VentoG60: I think shimming the trottle shaft will solve a lot of the hanging problems. But with your current control leaver the pump will never give you the maximum fuel. Talk to you beginning next week.
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Tintin
0-460-424-125 It's a Iveco daily 2.8L pump, 1800rpm (3600rpm engine)
240B inj.
I think that it is a very good pump.
I just bought this pump on ebay for 127 euro. :D Shipping will hopefully happen this week, and maybe I'll have it next week monday or so then. 8) So is this a bolt on ready to run pump option, or do I have to modify some stuff?
The way I understand I will have to modify the governor spring to up the rpm's, and probably have a pulley custom made to fit to get proper alignment? Or is there maybe another standard pulley available which will bolt right on and align ok?
I hope this pump will make my AHU with K24 really go when it's on! :twisted: What kind of horsepower could I expect with K24, no IC, AHU std nozzles and modified exhaust? I hope more than 90 or so!
I'll keep you posted.
Greetz
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well i have opend up my pump to shim the gov but how much dose it need to be shimed by 0.5mm 0.2mm ? come on guys throw me a freking bone on this one , one washer behind the gov is 1.37mm other one 1.51mm
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This weekend I checked Vento G60's (Sander) pump out. It realy looks good, no strange things.
Couple of problems for this pump to keep in mind.
The nose of the pump is short the same as the VW 1600 pumps. There is no caged govenor and there is a big actuator at the back for cold start advancing. The actuator can't stay there because of to little space between the head and the pump.
I'm now changing a pulley from a VW 1600 to fit on this pump. Hope that Sander can mount it on the Cabrio this weekend and have a test drive. :twisted:
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There is no caged govenor
hmmm... this might be the reason that the rpm's hang... about what rpm's does it hang??
you can easily push an ALH with a K24 to about 120 hp with alh being stock. seeing the TDI being pushed to around 180 hp (stock form) using resistors is amazing. probably a lot of smoke up there but still... IC is definitely recommended to keep the smoke down.
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The new never mounted pump hasn't got a caged govenor. I previously used uncaged govenors but that was not a problem. I placed a stronger spring and it reved higher.
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Indeed Bert! The pump that is hopefully going to be installed by you and me this weekend is the :twisted: 0460 424 125 :twisted: Iveco Turbodaily pump, which I hope we won't have any trouble with regarding rpm hanging or lack of fueling, like the hybrid 1.9D pump with TDI 11 mm plunger and 1.6 TD head that's on now.
Still, thanks for thinking with us jtanguay, I appreciate it.
I will post more about how the cabby performs with her new pump. Soon, I am going to change the nozzles (or rather Bert is going to do the work :wink: ) for ??? whatever Bert recommends. Hopefully I will soon find a good IC setup to fit nicely in between the radiator and grille, if anyone has any good tips for me that would be appreciated.
Sander
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Just take out te Vento IC.... :wink: 8)
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Put the pump on (the iveco pump) yesterday and got it running today. We had visitors yesterday and went out to visit some friends today, so I didn't have that much time to get it on and get it going. There were also some clearance issues for the advanced timing mechanism at the back (engine side of the pump), so I had to cut a bit out of the pump support bracket to be able to have enough adjustment possibility on the pump.
Finally tonight I got it up and running.
First impression, wow what a throttle response! Completely different from the old pump though, I think probably because of the spring that is not caged and not reinforced yet. But that will come soon enough I think.
It now revs up to around 4000 rpm-ish, I still don't have a rev counter yet.. Boost is immediately there at the touch of the throttle. It makes about 1,5+ Bar at around 2500 rpm in 5th, but the wastegate of the turbo is closed by me, so that helps too of course. NEvertheless, the old pump couldn't get the boost up to more than 1,1 Bar at 3500 rpm.
It pulls great along the rpm range, not smoking too much at all. I still have the maximum fuel screw set up against the collar that is still on the pump. first I am going to get a IC, some other nozzles, a new exhaust pipe, and a 02A tranny (has to be installed, as my clutch can't take the beating as this point, if I put my foot down to hard, it slips in 3rd, 4th and 5th) :twisted: .
So if someone wants to build a M-TDI, definitely go for one of these pumpe, all that has to be done to fit it is remove the advance timing actuator, have a custom pulley made, and take a little bit of your bracket, and she will go like crazy, with a lot of fueling reserve.
I'm a happy guy now!
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Glad to hear :wink: you see, that takes a real DI pump for a TDI engine, Also M-TDI 10mm pump would have made this effect.
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It is amazing the number of different pumps, etc. available on the other side of the pond that would make the mTDI conversion so much easier. Still though...modification in the end.
Shimming of the gov. and the overall governor mod is def. important but depending on your setup, like DA-BRT and TinTin mention there are modifications that need to be done to the control lever assembly itself (as illustrated above). However, the control lever involves and effects more of the "full throttle response" vs. hanging RPM problems in my experience. Using the stock IDI control lever assembly seriously limits your fueling potential of the pump on an mTDI. That is just one factor.
I'd like to see how one of our "mTDI" pumps would perform on a test bench ... that'd be nice. No one around here will test outside factory Bosch parameters though. I'd like to have my pump tested... but I haven't even found someone to pop and reshim my injectors for the R520's currently installed!!!
Joe
i keep tellin you guys that my boy in ohio can set you up and "go outside factory parameters"!!!!!!!!!!! :roll: :wink:
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We are also going outside the parameters, but it saves time if the base is already a big pump. :wink:
Last week I bought a couple of new 0 460 424 222 pumps (from a 2.8TDI)
The only thing I needed to change was the mounting plate in the rear. Could mount the TDI distribution wheel without problems.
(http://www.zwalve.eu/d/1632-2/CvM_Definitieve-pomp_080206_001.JPG)
(http://www.zwalve.eu/d/1636-2/CvM_Definitieve-pomp_080206_002.JPG)
(http://www.zwalve.eu/d/1639-2/CvM_Definitieve-pomp_080206_003.JPG)
(http://www.zwalve.eu/d/1642-2/CvM_Definitieve-pomp_080206_004.JPG)
(http://www.zwalve.eu/d/1645-2/CvM_Definitieve-pomp_080206_005.JPG)
(http://www.zwalve.eu/d/1648-2/CvM_Definitieve-pomp_080206_006.JPG)
(http://www.zwalve.eu/d/1651-2/CvM_Definitieve-pomp_080206_007.JPG)
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I have the ducato pump in my m-tdi and it works great. The only thing that really needs to be done is modify the governor spring..which on the ducato is a simple single spring that get's extended rather than compressed. The complete engine is for sale...$2500 ALH in a MK2 jetta. It's still in the car and can be driven prior to purchase. need $$ to finish my house
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I gave Sander (Vento G60) a extra spring for in his Iveco Daily pump and the engine is already running better.
Sander wants to tune up the spring a little bit more to finish it up. But first his transformation to 02A tranny.
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Hello.
I can't understand very well. Sorry.
Ford Transit 2.5DI pump have the best control lever that I never found.
I know the material of this lever is very hard, but I have a hard drill set and I am able to bore them to modify them.
What is the number of the control lever on the spare parts pump diagram?
68 or 95?
The number 68 is called "part load governor" and the number 95 "fulcrum lever".
Transit 2.5DI pump: 0 460 414 052 Basically It's a N/A pump with RPM fueling compasator, It's a weird pump, but If you put a LDA of other pump on it, like 1.6/1.9TD, that will give a nice M-TDI pump.
http://cgi.ebay.de/Einspritzpumpe-fuer-Ford-Transit-Bj-88-2-5l-70PS_W0QQitemZ180193331894QQihZ008QQcategoryZ61258QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
Is that the best pump or the other Transit pumps are the same?
For that pump the part load governor spare part number is 1 463 161 835, for the fulcrum lever is 1 461 907 810.
I found the fulcrum lever and it costs 200 U.K. pounds.
Or, check this, It's a ducato 2.5TDI pump, direct fit without modification or adjustment, this pump have the same came plate than the TDI VW.
It's expensive but that will give a lot of power: http://cgi.ebay.de/Einspritzpumpe-Fiat-Ducato-230-2-5L-TDI-1291_W0QQitemZ180190208821QQihZ008QQcategoryZ61258QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
Does somebody know the pump number?
Thank you all.