VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.
Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: Huc on February 09, 2019, 03:15:14 am
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This is kind of a long story. Lots of pictures.
It began with my 1990 4 Door Jetta (1.6TD MF, KKK K24). This was my first diesel car and was my daily driver for two years. It was mechanically solid and had a decent body, an overall great car.
I had a blast driving this car, it had enough power to have fun, but slow enough to allow driving at the car's limit without getting myself into trouble. Coming from a MK3 VR6 daily, this was surprisingly more fun. It felt more nimble and could be driven at the limit much more often without being dangerous. Most importantly, 1000km-1300km every tank. :-*
I also love the styling of the MK2. I've never owned a car that looked good from every angle (all my prior cars had some sort of noticeable body damage). Don't get me wrong, this car was far from perfect - but it looked pretty damn good from a distance. :)
(https://i.imgur.com/ndpX0qV.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/jsg7V0A.jpg)
Unfortunately, this didn't last long. A little over a year of ownership, I was caught up in an accident during a cruise. A mountain sheep ran out and my car was never the same again. >:(
(https://i.imgur.com/0DjUxEj.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/FS2XqRS.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/udrhNzB.jpg)
The accident took place about 350km away from home. Luckily, the damage was only cosmetic and I was able to drive home without any issues.
The hood, headlight, bumper support, outer fender, inner fender, and bumper were damaged. The bumper support was bent as well.
(https://i.imgur.com/TjJcN6Z.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/noPsvMh.jpg)
My friend had a MK2 parts car laying around with all the front end parts that I needed.
However, the inner fender and bumper support were also bent. Since these sections were a part of the chassis and could not be bolted off, I had to cut donor sections from the parts car to weld onto mine.
(https://i.imgur.com/PgfkpPC.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/WUqBkyS.jpg)
I saw that the battery tray was rusting as well, so I welded in new metal.
(https://i.imgur.com/fM8Qf3g.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/vQuDBXK.jpg)
The repair went very well and all the panels lined up better than I had expected.
The car drove the same as before and I continued to daily it for another year.
Even though the car drove the same, I didn't feel the same about it.
The crash caused a dent by the sunroof (it crumpled down from the compression), the door was a bit damaged by the hinge, and the panel gaps were no longer perfect.
Due to these noticeable imperfections, I didn't feel the same way about the car anymore when I looked at it. I used to look at my car all the time after parking it, admiring its styling. After the crash, I just felt sad whenever I looked at it. :(
Since then, I began looking for another MK2 chassis to swap my engine into. I searched the classifieds almost everyday, looking for a suitable candidate.
I wanted a MK2 Golf because the lighter chassis would net better fuel economy. I would also have the convenience of a hatch, which is a plus for a daily driver.
My criteria for a candidate were as follows:
- must have no major rust
- no body damage
- clean title
I thought my criteria was not too strict. The condition of the engine and transmission did not matter, since I was going to swap my 1.6TD in.
I was open to either manual or automatic candidates. The mileage didn't matter either, insofar as the body was good and car was rust free.
However, the ideal candidate was much harder to find than expected.
I personally went to look at many MK2s where the owner had advertised it as "rust free", only to find rocker or underbody rust. >:(
I know that it is difficult to find a rust free candidate for a car this old, but if I can see rust formed to the extent that it rips through the undercoating and reveals itself, then there is going to be much more than the tip of the iceberg.
I also know that there are MK2s out there without said extensive rust.
After about a year of searching, I found a suitable candidate. :)
Not a Golf, but I had to widen my criteria because having a clean chassis was more important.
(https://i.imgur.com/2r5yUvN.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/nfx8GOM.jpg)
A non-running 1992 Jetta Coupe with 1.8L 8v, engine code RV. Previous owner had recently repainted the car and didn't finish putting everything back together.
I brought my paint depth gauge with me to make sure all the panels were okay and didn't have any bondo'd repairs.
The underbody was pristine, no visible rust at all. The pinch welds were perfect, it looked like they were never used as jacking points, which is quite rare.
The paint job was by no means perfect. There were some runs and orange peel, but there was also plenty of clearcoat to work with to remedy these issues.
The windows and trim were removed for painting, suggesting that an attempt was made to properly paint the car.
My sedan had a beautiful shift boot and e-brake boot, so I swapped them over to the coupe. I think they were from a MK2 GTI. :-*
(https://i.imgur.com/5fEx8Pq.jpg)
I pulled the gasser engine from the coupe.
(https://i.imgur.com/j8hH5ja.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/0TkIU51.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/TN6DpFK.jpg)
I installed new e-brake cables, new drum shoes, and swapped the Bilsteins over from my sedan to the coupe.
I pulled the fuel tanks and fuel lines out as well to swap from gasoline to diesel.
I might have been able to just drain the tank and lines out, but it wasn't much work to remove them. I didn't want to risk introducing gasoline into the injection pump and causing wear from reduced lubricity.
(https://i.imgur.com/fEPtnUV.jpg)
After I removed the tank, I found some rust by the fuel door, rear strut tower seam, and the half-circle shaped section where the filler neck bolts onto.
(https://i.imgur.com/CuzLH9w.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/tshc0Ah.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/L5gATe3.jpg)
These areas trap water and have a propensity to rust. I wasn't able to catch these areas during the inspection, since it's not visible without removing the fuel tank.
The rust at the filler neck was tricky to remove, there was very little space and I couldn't fit my cut off wheel. Luckily, the air saw had a small blade that made quick work of it.
(https://i.imgur.com/a92yumO.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/klB5nD8.jpg)
It took a while to fabricate the pieces to weld it, it has an odd curve to it. Welding was a bit difficult because visibility was poor.
I couldn't get my head very close with the welding helmet on; space was very tight under the wheel well.
(https://i.imgur.com/QEi2Bkb.jpg)
I scuffed up the area with sandpaper for better paint cohesion, and applied some phosphoric acid for further etching and flash rust prevention.
(https://i.imgur.com/PJ934C5.jpg)
After etching, I wiped down the bare metal completely with acetone in preparation for POR-15 application.
(https://i.imgur.com/qqBu1fE.jpg)
The same process was repeated for the other areas.
I wire wheeled the seam until it is free of rust.
(https://i.imgur.com/lxs85Hd.jpg)
Welded the seam.
(https://i.imgur.com/LldQyeI.jpg)
Etched, wiped, and then painted.
(https://i.imgur.com/qwdaCKs.jpg)
Same for the half circle where the filler neck bolts onto.
(https://i.imgur.com/ybJwEqA.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/zTvcnok.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/kOEbjH2.jpg)
I applied PRO FORM's Urethane Seam Sealer on afterwards (forgot to take pictures >:()
I removed the engine, transmission and wiring harness.
(https://i.imgur.com/4w3TXua.jpg)
So dirty hahahaha! ;D
(https://i.imgur.com/RLz6sx0.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/pIpCuxj.jpg)
Got everything I needed from the sedan and sent it off to the scrapper. :( :( :(
(https://i.imgur.com/EHa2Vec.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/oZK5ZRq.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/A2YUSjB.jpg)
Farewell! :(
(https://i.imgur.com/hEWCswz.jpg)
Updates to come!
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I started by replacing some of the seals and bushings on the transmission while it is out. I followed the guide on brokevw website for 020 transmission service.
Here, I replaced the pushrod seal, pushrod bushing, throwout bearing, input shaft seal and the end cap.
First, I tapped threads for the old bushing. The material was very soft and easy to tap.
(https://i.imgur.com/qCBbx9k.jpg)
I made a tool to pull out the bushing. I welded a bolt onto a small pipe, which is welded onto a square tube.
(https://i.imgur.com/1sNCnsp.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/mYdNyL0.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/D0xMFZD.jpg)
The tool worked very well. The square bar at the end can be used as a handle for pulling, or as a surface to hit with two hammers to break the bushing loose.
I wasn't able to remove it by pulling, but tapping both ends at the same time with two hammers broke it loose with ease.
Next on the list was the input shaft seal. This one was quite difficult.
I carefully drilled two pilot holes and inserted the wood screws into the seal.
I used two pliers (one for each screw) and pulled for about half an hour until they came out. It was very tight, but the method worked.
(https://i.imgur.com/4D5rYGE.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/8InUZA1.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/gRWfVlX.jpg)
If you are doing this, be very patient and cautious. Don't drill and insert the screws too deep (but enough for it to grip tightly, since a significant amount of force is needed to pull this out) as it may damage the bearing from behind.
It may take a lot of pulling and tugging without showing any signs of budging - just keep working at it.
Next was the end cap and throwout bearing. The end cap was much tighter than I expected. I had to be careful not to damage the mating surface, and not to drop any debris inside the transmission during the process.
(https://i.imgur.com/z5LnwuD.jpg)
After the cap end is off, the throwout bearing can be replaced. You can see the wear mark (indentation in the center) on the old one.
(https://i.imgur.com/YoVAqtL.jpg)
I have never seen a throwout bearing design like this, I quite like it.
I like the idea of it being constantly lubricated in gear oil and being made up of simple solid parts. Overall, it seems to have fewer failure points than a clutch fork design.
New pushrod seal installed.
(https://i.imgur.com/OlQpqnu.jpg)
Transmission cleaned.
(https://i.imgur.com/l2CdYlK.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/s67rStG.jpg)
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Dude!! Thank you for sharing, Im watching the crap out of this! Ever since I've been getting into VW diesel engines I've been getting into VW cars. Id love to find a MKI or MK2 2 door Golf for to do a sweet 1.6TD build! If you ever need a hand Im in Pitt meadows!
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No doubt, nice job.
Glad to see you are able to do this level of quality work.
Can only point to one thing I would change.
I once removed the pushrod tube bushing with a tap,
because it was so worn I couldn't do it my usual way.
Even though I ran a brush down the tube, sprayed and cleaned it,
there must have been a brass shaving left that took out the seal.
I usually run a 5/16" rod down the tube from the throwout bearing end and tap them both out.
You got the seal set in slightly recessed, just right.
Thanks for caring enough about the MK2 to keep one alive.
As you found out there aren't many good ones left.
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Dude!! Thank you for sharing, Im watching the crap out of this! Ever since I've been getting into VW diesel engines I've been getting into VW cars. Id love to find a MKI or MK2 2 door Golf for to do a sweet 1.6TD build! If you ever need a hand Im in Pitt meadows!
These old VW diesel engines are awesome! They're reliable, simple and gets great fuel economy.
There's a MK2 Jetta 1.6TD right now on Craigslist asking $1800.
I'll definitely give you a shout if I do, thanks!
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No doubt, nice job.
Glad to see you are able to do this level of quality work.
Can only point to one thing I would change.
I once removed the pushrod tube bushing with a tap,
because it was so worn I couldn't do it my usual way.
Even though I ran a brush down the tube, sprayed and cleaned it,
there must have been a brass shaving left that took out the seal.
I usually run a 5/16" rod down the tube from the throwout bearing end and tap them both out.
You got the seal set in slightly recessed, just right.
Thanks for caring enough about the MK2 to keep one alive.
As you found out there aren't many good ones left.
Ah, I didn't know it was that simple to push it out from the back. That seems like an easier and safer way to do it without much more work, I hope I didn't leave any shavings behind.
MK2s are beautiful cars, it's a shame that so many of them aren't well kept. Rust prevention is key. Any signs of rust should be dealt with ASAP, and the underbody should be upkept regularly with oil spraying.
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It's sort of easy.
You have to run the rod down the side until it hits the bushing.
Not alot to grab but usually enough,
only once did I have to use a tap, when there wasn't enough bushing left to catch.
I tap the new one in using an allen head bolt, like an intake bolt.
I was working on a guys MK2 Jetta TD for over a year.
Every time I drove it I wanted to get my MK2 golf back on the road.
Too many cars. I drive the Rabbit and whatever I'm finishing up to sell,
then usually someone elses that I'm working on.
The MK2 Golf is one of my favorites. If I can sell a couple cars this summer I'll be driving it again.
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Some updates.
I was planning to drop the motor in and get the car on the road sooner, and then do the T-belt and ARP head studs later down the road.
I thought about it for a while and decided it was best to do everything while the motor was out because I didn't want to pull the motor again.
Things on my list to replace are:
- hydraulic lifters (current ones aren't too bad, but they get stuck and tick once in a while)
- valve seals
- 1.9TD AAZ metal headgasket
- ARP headstuds
First, I pulled the head to clean and inspect.
(https://i.imgur.com/eijp408.jpg)
I used a green Scotchbrite pad with some aluminum safe Zep cleaner to remove the dirt and grease.
(https://i.imgur.com/y5XyiVO.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/TLOVGia.jpg)
Checked the head for warpage, was within spec (under 0.004" as per Bentley). Typical cracks between valves, but very thin (also within spec).
Surprised that the Bentley outlines a tolerance for crack size. Not often I see cracks in the cylinder head of engines to be considered "normal". :o
I removed the valve keepers with Lisle's 36050 valve keeper removal tool. The valve seals were tighter than I expected, I had to be very careful not to scratch the walls where the hydraulic lifters sit.
After removing the head components, I went ahead to lap the valves. Most of the seats had little to no pitting, but I figured it wouldn't hurt.
(https://i.imgur.com/MIPeeqz.jpg)
I was glad I bothered to lap the valves because I found that all 4 exhaust valves had excessive side to side play during lapping. Oddly, the intake valves were perfect, I couldn't feel any play at all.
I didn't bother setting up my dial indicator to measure the amount of play because I could tell by feel that it was far too much. Just the thought of those worn guides causing valve wobble during high rpm made me cringe.
Valve guide removal can be done in a number of ways. I read that some have used a press to push them out, and some others used an air hammer. An air hammer seemed too risky due to the lack of control.
I considered using a press as it would lend more control (less risk of missing and damaging the head), but the idea of pushing the valve out with all the forces applied from a single point didn't sit well with me. :-\
As the guide pushes outward from compressional force (press' applied force vs. friction between the guide and the wall), it applies an outward force on the valve guide walls.
I worry that this mushrooming will risk enlarging the guide walls - changing its dimensions.
While the valve guides are made of fairly soft material and the horizontal forces shouldn't be enough to change the guide walls' dimensions, the aluminum on the head is also quite soft. In the end, I felt that this was an unnecessary risk if a safer method exists.
I thought about this for a while and decided to use a tap to pull out the valve guide.
(https://i.imgur.com/Sl3VipZ.jpg)
Unlike pressing, pulling the guide out provides control and removes the guide without exerting outward forces onto the guide walls from mushrooming.
Finding the correctly sized nut, bolt and tap was difficult though.
Since the 1.6TD uses 8mm valve guides, a M9 tap would be ideal.
M9 is wide enough to tap deep threads for the bolt to grab on, but not so wide that it'd risk ripping through the guide's outer diameter and into the guide walls (incase the tap wasn't perfectly centered).
While M9 taps were widely common, M9 nuts and bolts were a hard find. I called up several hardware stores and none of them carried M9 bolts. Only one of them carried an M9 nut, but it had to be special ordered.
I pulled up a chart of hardware dimensions to see if there was something more attainable with dimensions similar to M9.
Everything was either too large or too small. I didn't want to risk stripping the thread (should the guides be too tight), or tapping into the guide wall.
After a lot of digging, I found an M9 in the pitch and length I needed. I was a used crankcase bolt from a Porsche Cayman, PN#99610120300 - I found it on eBay. :-*
After tapping the M9 thread into the 8mm valve guides, I placed a socket on the base of where the valve spring seat sits. I inserted the M9 bolt with the M9 nut screwed in.
I used a bunch of washers to space it out, so the nut would be high enough for me to comfortably turn it with a wrench.
By tightening the nut down, it pushes the socket down onto the valve spring seat's base. The base acts as support while the nut forces the bolt upwards, which pulls the guide out.
This went very smoothly and all 4 guides were removed in short time. :)
Finding the M9 hardware was the most difficult part. On the 1.9 engines with 7mm guides, this would be much easier as M8 hardware are widely available.
(https://i.imgur.com/Aqb4ygA.jpg)
The head was thoroughly cleaned to remove debris from tapping and 4 new guides were pressed in with a deep socket placed on the guide's lip.
(https://i.imgur.com/wmKdywI.jpg)
The old glow plug bus bar was worn and cracked.
(https://i.imgur.com/GUdbXMq.jpg)
I bought some copper and used the old bar as a template to make a new one.
(https://i.imgur.com/nY2oJ1z.jpg)
I installed new valve seals with a drinking straw and proceeded to the springs, keepers, retainers, and lifters.
I wasn't able to use the Lisle tool to re-install the valve keepers, I think it was designed for cars with smaller keepers. I didn't have any other tool for compressing valve springs, so I had to make my own.
(https://i.imgur.com/Q5mcIYa.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/YZiCufA.jpg)
This worked very well.
(https://i.imgur.com/w7cckEM.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Lk9jesO.jpg)
Retainers were installed, and in went the lifters and cam.
(https://i.imgur.com/D3wvC5Z.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/0TD0h9Y.jpg)
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I removed the injectors to pop test and ordered new heat shields to replace.
I didn't have a pop tester and figured it would be a worthwhile investment as I'll probably tinker with diesel engines for years to come.
3/4 had a good spray pattern, no leaks and popped at the same pressure. One of them sprayed a stream instead of popping, so a new injector was ordered to replace.
Now that the head is mostly ready (just needs studs replaced with longer ones for rubber valve cover gasket), I began prepping the block.
It was VERY DIRTY. :P
(https://i.imgur.com/OumntEE.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/w1HsI2s.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/WuBiwn1.jpg)
Some areas had a thick layer of grime, it was almost like a paste. Using a wire brush would quickly ruin it as the wires would get clogged up with the grime.
I found that user a scraper was the best approach to remove the initial large clumps of grime. After the large chunks are removed, I used a wire brush to free up grime in the pores.
Here it is after wire brushing and using some degreaser, scrubbing with Scotchbrite.
(https://i.imgur.com/LjkkjZM.jpg)
Sprayed on more degreaser and Klean Strip.
(https://i.imgur.com/56zossv.jpg)
After "marinating" for a few minutes.
(https://i.imgur.com/Bn9rK85.jpg)
Dried everything up and wiped down with acetone.
(https://i.imgur.com/1J61yKD.jpg)
Sponge brushed on POR-15.
(https://i.imgur.com/dqHJaGj.jpg)
Painted a blue-ish grey.
(https://i.imgur.com/0kSqi6k.jpg)
Same for the other side.
(https://i.imgur.com/fSmzpeo.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/tacccIW.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/VOsG7ul.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/LBdalXG.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/p8bkXcU.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Gw7Y6rz.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/MqcNdiL.jpg)
The black looks pretty good, but I want to see where my oil leaks come from.
Next, I cleaned the deck surface and prepped the the holes for the head studs.
(https://i.imgur.com/MNdHu9c.jpg)
I taped up all the holes to prevent debris from falling in. I used pipe cleaners and ear cleaning cotton swabs to clean the bolt holes.
After cleaning, I cleaned up the threads with a tap for an accurate torque reading when bolting on the head.
(https://i.imgur.com/htbFWzJ.jpg)
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It's sort of easy.
You have to run the rod down the side until it hits the bushing.
Not alot to grab but usually enough,
only once did I have to use a tap, when there wasn't enough bushing left to catch.
I tap the new one in using an allen head bolt, like an intake bolt.
I was working on a guys MK2 Jetta TD for over a year.
Every time I drove it I wanted to get my MK2 golf back on the road.
Too many cars. I drive the Rabbit and whatever I'm finishing up to sell,
then usually someone elses that I'm working on.
The MK2 Golf is one of my favorites. If I can sell a couple cars this summer I'll be driving it again.
Too many cars...I have the same problem. Too many ideas and not enough time. I love the MK2 Golf too, but hard to find a clean one. I think MK2 Jettas are more common and easier to find in good condition.
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Nice work. A couple comments. Polish the pre-chamber inserts until they shine and inspect for small cracks. Common thought used to be that small cracks in the inserts were fine. This happened approximately 3,000 miles after a rebuild with the typical small cracks in the inserts.
(https://i.imgur.com/sNWP6zZ.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/8b95GIz.jpg)
I was lucky the block was salvageable but obviously the head and piston were trash.
At this point I wouldn't recommend installing a head with any cracks in the inserts. I've gotten new inserts from Great Brittain, but it was a pain and kind of expensive. Details are in the archives.
I use an air hammer and appropriately sized valve guide driver for removing and inserting the guides. I use a reamer for finishing the holes to size.
I hand lap the head gasket surface of the head using lubed (wd-40 or similar) 120 grit sandpaper spray glued to true flat polished granite that is setting on a solid flat surface. That's worked perfectly for several heads that I have done.
I'd recommend using a very light coat of hylomar spray on both sides of the gasket, on the block, and on the head. It works great to prevent the weeping leaks at the oil drains and especially at the pressurized oil channel between 3 & 4 (which appears to be why the front of your block was so gross).
I look forward to seeing more. Good luck.
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I like the idea of using a tap to remove the guides.
I believe a valve seal works great around the dipstick tube and fits right in the hole.
Gonna check the intermediate shaft bearings while it's out right?
Run a separate wire to each glow plug.
So if one goes bad it's easier to find out which one.
I usually run them out to the #4 plug,
They won't all bolt to that one so I use a short piece of copper with 2 holes
and it bolts to the #4 along with the #3 wire, the extra hole is for #1, #2 and power.
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Nice work. A couple comments. Polish the pre-chamber inserts until they shine and inspect for small cracks. Common thought used to be that small cracks in the inserts were fine. This happened approximately 3,000 miles after a rebuild with the typical small cracks in the inserts.
(https://i.imgur.com/sNWP6zZ.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/8b95GIz.jpg)
I was lucky the block was salvageable but obviously the head and piston were trash.
At this point I wouldn't recommend installing a head with any cracks in the inserts. I've gotten new inserts from Great Brittain, but it was a pain and kind of expensive. Details are in the archives.
I use an air hammer and appropriately sized valve guide driver for removing and inserting the guides. I use a reamer for finishing the holes to size.
I hand lap the head gasket surface of the head using lubed (wd-40 or similar) 120 grit sandpaper spray glued to true flat polished granite that is setting on a solid flat surface. That's worked perfectly for several heads that I have done.
I'd recommend using a very light coat of hylomar spray on both sides of the gasket, on the block, and on the head. It works great to prevent the weeping leaks at the oil drains and especially at the pressurized oil channel between 3 & 4 (which appears to be why the front of your block was so gross).
I look forward to seeing more. Good luck.
I have read up extensively on the issue while doing the head and also came across your post.
I couldn't find any inserts available, and I'm doubtful that any of the machine shops in my area are competent enough to do it properly.
If I can find the inserts and a shop that is guaranteed to install them properly, then I would definitely do them.
If not, I'd rather leave them alone. It's not ideal, but I've heard of more stories from them falling out when improperly installed than when leaving them alone on a head that hasn't been resurfaced.
Good call on the hylomar spray, I am planning to use that to get a better seal, especially that I'm using MLS.
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I like the idea of using a tap to remove the guides.
I believe a valve seal works great around the dipstick tube and fits right in the hole.
Gonna check the intermediate shaft bearings while it's out right?
Run a separate wire to each glow plug.
So if one goes bad it's easier to find out which one.
I usually run them out to the #4 plug,
They won't all bolt to that one so I use a short piece of copper with 2 holes
and it bolts to the #4 along with the #3 wire, the extra hole is for #1, #2 and power.
Yes, the intermediate shaft bearings will probably need replacing, although I haven't checked yet.
I always change glow plugs in entire sets, so the whole set is replaced when one starts to fail.
I do see how using separate wires will be more convenient for diagnosis, but I prefer the OEM design and look.
I think it makes for a tidier installation and something about a solid piece of copper makes me feel good.
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I couldn't find any inserts available, and I'm doubtful that any of the machine shops in my area are competent enough to do it properly.
If I can find the inserts and a shop that is guaranteed to install them properly, then I would definitely do them.
If not, I'd rather leave them alone. It's not ideal, but I've heard of more stories from them falling out when improperly installed than when leaving them alone on a head that hasn't been resurfaced.
Good call on the hylomar spray, I am planning to use that to get a better seal, especially that I'm using MLS.
Did you see this thread? http://vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php/topic,36096.msg340064.html#msg340064 I purchased 8 new 1.6TD inserts a few years back. It was a hassle as I had to send money for the purchase to someone I knew in the UK, they needed to purchase the PCC inserts and ship them to me. They were a perfect fit without any machining necessary. Tap the old ones out, tap the new ones in.
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I have a lot of accessories and brackets to clean.
This is very time consuming, but also necessary because the parts must be very clean for paint to adhere well.
(https://i.imgur.com/BMo7eYf.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/msOBWNb.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/BMEAELz.jpg)
I used an assortment of picks, wire wheels, brushes and scrubs to combat each nook and cranny.
Some of the accessories and brackets had deep crevices which made cleaning difficult.
I used the aluminum safe Zep cleaner and phosphoric acid as well for parts subject to flash rust.
(https://i.imgur.com/Cdf2iZO.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/3P4ZslS.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/2E9k7AJ.jpg)
I wiped the residue down with acetone prior to applying POR-15.
(https://i.imgur.com/z1XgzXp.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/5nr7ajc.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/W1NMp9h.jpg)
Finding the correct o-ring for the vacuum pump took a while. I think it was close to an R-34 size.
(https://i.imgur.com/ue503rk.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/NR22Q5e.jpg)
I screwed up some wood together for spray painting and to hold the parts up while they dry.
(https://i.imgur.com/5FrQKdD.jpg)
Strong fishing string.
(https://i.imgur.com/Z38Oqth.jpg)
This vacuum pump has come a long way.
(https://i.imgur.com/2o8vb7p.jpg)
I love the beige, especially on an older car. So far I've only painted the steel parts. I will leave some black, and paint beige whatever's more visible in the engine bay.
Starting to make the downpipe, 3" 304 stainless.
(https://i.imgur.com/AZX870K.jpg)
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I couldn't find any inserts available, and I'm doubtful that any of the machine shops in my area are competent enough to do it properly.
If I can find the inserts and a shop that is guaranteed to install them properly, then I would definitely do them.
If not, I'd rather leave them alone. It's not ideal, but I've heard of more stories from them falling out when improperly installed than when leaving them alone on a head that hasn't been resurfaced.
Good call on the hylomar spray, I am planning to use that to get a better seal, especially that I'm using MLS.
Did you see this thread? http://vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php/topic,36096.msg340064.html#msg340064 I purchased 8 new 1.6TD inserts a few years back. It was a hassle as I had to send money for the purchase to someone I knew in the UK, they needed to purchase the PCC inserts and ship them to me. They were a perfect fit without any machining necessary. Tap the old ones out, tap the new ones in.
Yes, I remember staring at that PDF file for a long time about a month or two ago haha! ;D
Is it possible to order them here? I don't have anyone in the UK.
It looks like VWPCC765000 is the one I'll need, I'll measure mine to double check.
Are they made of inconel? Inconel is very hard but also very brittle, I guess that contributes to their cracking.
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They would not sell directly to me in the US. I don't know if their policy has changed since then. It might be worth inquiring.
I don't know what they are specifically made of, but they are magnetic. I have found that the stock PCC inserts also are not consistent as far as what they are made of. I have tested quite a few TD and non-turbo inserts and some are magnetic, some aren't.
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3" down pipe seems like overkill.
2.5 is even a little large sometimes,..
but 3" should fit a MK2 easily.
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Lower EGT, faster spool, more power, higher ceiling for future power upgrades, more reliability with lower temps, more potential to push.
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Are you talking about the 3" pipe? You'll have to get really extreme (like 200+ hp) on your build before there are any benefits to 3" over 2.5". At that point you'll need custom rods, crank girdle, etc, etc... and the pre-combustion chamber inserts will fall out of the head before long. There's nothing wrong with 3" per se, except that it's a pita to fit.
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Fitment isn't an issue, I've made 3" downpipe for the 1.6TD on MK2 chassis before.
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An update will come soon.
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lookin great! thanks for the updates!
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Here's the long awaited update!
I want to run a catch can, but I don't want to use the stock plastic CCV oil separator that plugs into the valve cover. I think it looks too bulky and it is made up of too many joints. More joints mean more potential areas for oil to leak. I wire wheeled the valve cover to bare metal, cleaned with acetone, and mocked up a 304 stainless 1" tubing onto the hole where the stock CCV used to plug into. I used stainless steel whenever possible for more corrosion resistance.
(https://i.imgur.com/drj24td.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/VD8RoBd.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/XJwceqN.jpg?1)
I painted all the remaining refinished mild steel accessories and brackets with beige over POR15. I left some components black for some contrast.
For the aluminum accessories and brackets, I used a wire wheel to remove all of the original paint. I cleaned with acetone, phosphoric acid etch, and then self etching primer for the first coat.
(https://i.imgur.com/srNhqRK.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/EHaZhtI.jpg?1)
(https://imgur.com/3coMh6a.jpg?1)
(https://imgur.com/Ho5vq9y.jpg?1)
I used silver for the top coat.
(https://imgur.com/2LQkfLP.jpg?1)
(https://imgur.com/DwzEyPK.jpg?1)
Here is the result after all of the accessories and brackets have been refinished.
I showed the side with the part number where possible if someone stumbles upon this thread in the future needing reference.
(https://imgur.com/PBONuZ3.jpg?1)
(https://imgur.com/gN0Z918.jpg?1)
(https://imgur.com/rZjR5Fa.jpg?1)
(https://imgur.com/q0TfRvP.jpg?1)
(https://imgur.com/1bbMwtl.jpg?1)
(https://imgur.com/PpCKB93.jpg?1)
(https://imgur.com/xmD3eKb.jpg?1)
(https://imgur.com/kIdQPEz.jpg?1)
(https://imgur.com/qEsBm4g.jpg?1)
(https://imgur.com/K21Jx1t.jpg?1)
Replaced the rear main seal.
(https://imgur.com/NOR7prD.jpg?1)
The intermediate shaft bearing didn't look too bad, but I still decided to replace it. The intermediate shaft bearing is located between the crank gear and the injection pump gear. The intermediate shaft bearing wears slowly overtime and should not require replacement often. However, it is not uncommon to find excessive wear on this part. This is caused by timing belt jobs that have not been performed correctly. The Bentley manual states that the correct tension of the timing belt has been achieved when the belt could be twisted to 45 degrees, but no more. The common mistake people make when performing the timing belt on these engines is twisting the belt at the wrong location. The twist test should be performed between the injection pump gear and the intermediate shaft pulley. If there is only 45 degrees of allowable twist between the camshaft gear and the injection pump gear (where most people mistakenly perform this twist test on), the belt will be too tight, causing premature wear on the intermediate shaft bearing.
There is a pressurized oil port located where the intermediate shaft bearing sits. When the intermediate shaft bearing has excessive wear, the gap between the intermediate shaft bearing and the intermediate shaft itself will be too great, allowing excessive oil to leak out through that port. This will cause the other oil ports to receive less oil and causing reduced lubricity. When the wear is too great, engine damage will result as the other engine components receive less lubrication.
(https://imgur.com/9tThFsB.jpg?1)
(https://imgur.com/P2RDD3V.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/wFdyi6H.jpg?3)
I used a bearing race driver to remove the old bearing.
(https://imgur.com/xt1Yh1k.jpg?1)
(https://imgur.com/YCyA1CL.jpg?1)
(https://imgur.com/S5nwOyc.jpg?1)
(https://imgur.com/XA9WssR.jpg?1)
When installing the new bearing, use a marker to help align the oil port, then slowly drive the new bearing in. If the oil port is misaligned, the intermediate shaft bearing may risk damage from insufficient lubrication. I didn't have it lined up perfectly the first time, so I ordered another new bearing to ensure that the port was perfectly aligned. After replacing the intermediate shaft bearing, I installed a new intermediate shaft seal.
I found out my crank gear was missing a chunk. I'm not really sure how this happened, the car appeared to drive fine during my ownership. I'm not sure what could have caused this.
(https://imgur.com/ClQg8OY.jpg?1)
The crank gear is torqued on very tightly, I think it is one of the tightest bolts on this car. Since the engine was detached from the transmission and the rear end of the engine was mounted on the engine stand, I was unable to lock the crank in position while undoing the crank gear bolt.
I didn't want to use an impact gun to remove it because the shock from the impact may risk damaging the components along the crank. I had no choice but to fabricate a tool to hold the crank gear in place while removing the bolt.
I used 304 stainless to make the tool because I hate rust.
(https://imgur.com/NdFjGJl.jpg?1)
(https://imgur.com/yqfC2Vh.jpg?1)
I replaced the crank seal and the front main seal while the crank gear was being replaced.
(https://imgur.com/WIQMCHX.jpg?1)
(https://imgur.com/rN5AMka.jpg?1)
I didn't want to use the original cork material gasket for the valve cover because it doesn't seal as well and would require a replacement everytime I remove the valve cover. To fit the rubber valve cover gasket, extended valve cover studs are required, since the thickness of the rubber valve cover gasket is much greater than the original cork style gasket. One of the original valve cover studs was extremely tight, I couldn't remove it by locking two nuts together and turning the bottom one counter clockwise. I purchased some class 10 grade steel nuts to get a tighter lock without stripping, but it was still too tight to remove without turning the nut on the stud. I had no choice but to weld the nut on the stud.
(https://i.imgur.com/jMLdx0p.jpg)
If you attempt to perform this task, make sure that you use a welder that does not splatter or spark, otherwise you will damage the engine head and the components inside. I used a TIG welder to perform the job and took extra precautions to cover all of the exposed engine head components before welding. Luckily, the weld was very clean and smooth, there was no spark and splatter at all (even with TIG welding, splatter may occur when the part has contamination).
It is also important to ground the engine head at the point closest to the weld. If the ground is placed far away, the current may jump through the engine head components and cause damage.
(https://i.imgur.com/q31xTfr.jpg)
New studs all installed.
(https://i.imgur.com/nwrlkfg.jpg)
ARP head studs installed.
(https://i.imgur.com/YgcIhPe.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/JNmQKjP.jpg)
The engine head was then installed back onto the block, along with some of the refinished accessories and brackets.
The ARP headstuds were installed according to the pattern provided by ARP's instructions, using the provided lubricated grease to achieve accurate torque specs. The grease has to be applied on the washer surfaces, as well as the nuts. The grease on these surfaces will reduce friction to a minimal. If the grease is not used on all these surfaces, the coefficient of friction between the hardware will be greater, and a final torque spec of 125ft-lbs may be achieved before the sufficient clamping force has been achieved. Accurate torque spec reading is the only way to ensure that the correct clamping force has been applied.
(https://imgur.com/HzSI8lq.jpg?1)
(https://imgur.com/ZQ3fxif.jpg?1)
New oil filter housing gasket, new coolant flange, new waterpump and o-ring installed.
(https://imgur.com/CuqUoT0.jpg?1)
New camshaft seal and new timing belt tensioner were also installed.
(https://imgur.com/aboovou.jpg?1)
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I received a very expensive package.
(https://i.imgur.com/ZvWmBvj.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/ww6j2nQ.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/gYaGWzs.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/SzPPBXf.jpg?1)
I sent my pump out to Giles for a performance rebuild. I also purchased new genuine GTD nozzles from the Euro MK2 1.6GTD. These will provide more fueling than the stock nozzles. These too were sent out to Giles for balancing, as well as refurbishing the original injector bodies. I requested Giles to do a custom tune to accommodate the hardware that I intended to run.
I never send my cars to shops and businesses to have work performed on them because I find that very few shops in my area have the level of care and attention to detail that I do. I have seen quality compromising shortcuts taken, even by the most reputable shops and tuners in my area. Because of this, I have always done everything myself. If it's a lack of know-how, skill, or equipment withholding me from completing the task, I'd always take the time to learn the skill and buy the required equipment, so that I could do it myself. However, doing a performance rebuild on this pump was not feasible with the equipment I have, and I wanted an optimized performance build - not just a governor removal and fueling adjustments. There wasn't enough information available to build a pump that matches what Giles can do. Coupled with his reputation and track record, I decided it was worth the risk to send my pump to Giles for a performance rebuild.
When I received the pump and injectors, I immediately tested the injectors with my pop tester. They were all balanced and had a good spray pattern, so it was a good start.
(https://i.imgur.com/6NyKAOe.jpg?1)
I installed the new injectors with new injector heat shields and a new coolant flange on the engine head.
(https://i.imgur.com/UkMpzRl.jpg?1)
I installed the new injection pump.
(https://i.imgur.com/NCKuDvl.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/VbC5BND.jpg?1)
New timing belt installed.
(https://i.imgur.com/QE4epuG.jpg?1)
I had the pump timing set to 1.05mm with my dial indicator.
(https://i.imgur.com/RMwjiFX.jpg?1)
I turned the engine upside down to clean the mating surface for the oil pan gasket and windage tray installation.
(https://i.imgur.com/mwbeyOD.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/YPtZUk2.jpg?1)
I fabricated a new accessory belt tensioner using all stainless components.
(https://i.imgur.com/0AqT3Rc.jpg?1)
Installing belts, pulleys, and engine mount.
(https://i.imgur.com/4fWGiEv.jpg?1)
Reliability being the top priority in this build, I opted for the MK4 R32 VR6 oil cooler to help keep temperatures in check.
(https://i.imgur.com/JvVFgXT.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/mzTXDKC.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/HeX6c1Z.jpg?1)
Mocking up spacing for the custom intake manifold.
(https://i.imgur.com/CcPdqtx.jpg?1)
The goal here is to maximize width and height on the plenum, whilst giving the valve cover studs enough space to fit a deep socket over the valve cover nuts. This is to ensure that the valve cover can be easily removed after enlarging the intake manifold.
(https://i.imgur.com/NHyRHD6.jpg?1)
I will run a less modified intake manifold for now, just to get the car running and to break in the new hydraulic lifters. TIG welding the cast aluminum went quite smoothly. One of the cleaner cast aluminum parts I have welded.
(https://i.imgur.com/LqxuQJB.jpg?1)
The engine is almost ready to go in.
(https://i.imgur.com/ds4mNpQ.jpg?1)
New rear main seal.
(https://i.imgur.com/FWZOqRe.jpg?1)
New clutch, flywheel, pressure plate. Using the MK2 16v clutch and pressure plate to hold more torque.
(https://i.imgur.com/VeOhYUU.jpg?1)
Engine installed.
(https://i.imgur.com/tN9UOip.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/kHx5wp4.jpg?1)
I was pleasantly surprised by the amount of space between the oil filter and the cross member. It was plenty of space to do oil changes without struggle. My friend's AHU swapped B4 Passat also had his oil cooler upgraded to the R32's and it had little to no space left between the oil filter and the cross member.
Shot of the windage tray.
(https://i.imgur.com/vDt35s0.jpg?1)
Mocking up the 3" downpipe. Plenty of clearance.
(https://i.imgur.com/Egj7Wz9.jpg?1)
The stock downpipe was made of very thick cast iron, along with a brace that mounts on the rear of the engine below the turbo manifold. I have seen many aftermarket downpipes from all sorts of cars crack after just a few years, sometimes even months. Sometimes it is caused by insufficient penetration, lack of back purging (welds sugaring up on the backside results in a granular, weaker structure), or welding too slow and hot, causing weld embrittlement and large HAZ. A lot of the times, I also find poor design and engineering to contribute to cracking downpipes. Going from the thick and beefy OEM cast iron downpipe to thin walled 1/16" stainless steel, there is already a significant compromise in strength. If there is no bracing to support the downpipe from all the diesel engine's vibration, it is not a matter of if, but when it'll fail. While the stock downpipe is underwhelming in performance, it is built to last and never fails. My goal is to build a downpipe that won't bottleneck power, flows well for low EGTs, but well designed and engineered like the OEM one - strong and reliable.
To that, I began mocking up a brace to support the downpipe. The brace will help match the rhythm of vibration between the downpipe and the engine. The flex pipe will help mellow out any additional vibration that was not taken up by the brace.
I used 1/8" 304 stainless steel for all the bracing components and hardware.
(https://i.imgur.com/rHH8tLl.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/FnCCJDd.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/wOnWQto.jpg?1)
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Now, on to fabricating the rest of the exhaust. The downpipe-back section of the exhaust is stepped down to 2.5". All the flanges, clamps and hardware are 304 stainless. The exhaust will be comprised of 3 sections - a straight section coming off the downpipe, an "S" section beneath the rear passenger seat, and a rear section behind the rear suspension beam. Having the exhaust in 3 pieces will make removal and installation easier in the future. The rear section is also designed to allow quick and easy swaps to a setup with a muffler. The exhaust will currently run with no muffler and 1 resonator. The resonator is from a Subaru BRZ. The size is also 2.5", comprised of 304 stainless. I redesigned the hanger for the straight section so that it's more similar to the MK3 hanger design. The MK2 hanger in that section is hung off one hook that is slightly off center. It provides less lateral support than the MK3 design, and I find it more difficult to remove and install.
(https://i.imgur.com/zteWu3b.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/7INXfJh.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/K6pp9SJ.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/1oqZC8V.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/udAgAs7.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/BCcZxti.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/fCRQUzC.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/tcgHWp9.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/5UEQ4wZ.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/qDBQpq4.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/gGNabb0.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/9YrcM32.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/9HKB7bg.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/gp0PQ6Y.jpg?1)
Mocking up the rear section with a stool. It must be positioned perfectly in the center.
(https://i.imgur.com/9zsHHgr.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/TVF59vx.jpg?1)
Next, I replaced the inner and outer tie rods. The inners were very difficult to remove without a tool. I didn't have a tool to remove them, so I made one.
(https://i.imgur.com/OEqUGoa.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/V4UIsKV.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/rnj8sta.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/7Rh3yri.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/aZBg3SW.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/moEQR3g.jpg?1)
The car was ready for its first start. I used a Mityvac to pull a vacuum on the fuel return nozzle off of the injection pump to bleed the lines, pump, and injectors. The lines sat for a long time disconnected as I swapped over the fuel tank and lines from the diesel car, so it took a while to get fuel running through. After bleeding, I proceeded to start the car. The engine cranked very weakly and was unable to start. After some diagnosing, I noticed that the cable connecting the starter to the solenoid had broken off more than halfway. Too much resistance, not enough amperage to push the starter quickly. I soldered it back and the car fired up immediately. I varied the RPMs above 2000 to break in the new lifters for about 20 minutes and did an oil change.
Here is a video of a cold start after the first oil change.
https://youtu.be/06_Zu2h74So
Here is a video of the exhaust note. It's deep and rumbly, I love it.
https://i.imgur.com/vcg74Mf.mp4
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Very nice build sir!! Beautiful Coupe!!
Exhaust note sounds great also.
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Fun to see. Thanks for sharing. What is your plan for the crank vent? If you connect back to the intake (per stock routing) then you need the hockey puck as a safety measure to help prevent diesel runaway. I think it is bad manners to vent to atmosphere.
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With the bald spots on those valve cover studs,
that might not be clamped down enough to seal.
Without additional washers.
Great exhaust build.
Here's apic of the MK2 downpipe I built:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49503489573_842f1b363a_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iqsjLV)td_outpipe (https://flic.kr/p/2iqsjLV) by vwfatmobile (https://www.flickr.com/photos/147103123@N05/), on Flickr
Big fan of the toilet bowl, ha.
That's how the stock one was supported.
Must agree wouldn't last long without support.
Also wanted to mention that looks like a solid crank holder.
and that torqueing that crank bolt works great with the engine sitting on the ground.
With that brace against the ground you can just push down on the breaker bar.
Hardly moves the engine at all.
All the force goes into the ground.
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Also wanted to mention that looks like a solid crank holder.
and that torqueing that crank bolt works great with the engine sitting on the ground.
With that brace against the ground you can just push down on the breaker bar.
Hardly moves the engine at all.
All the force goes into the ground.
I've torqued quite a few with the engine on the engine stand but I rest end of the bar onto a chair so it is basically horizontal and all the force of the holder goes down to ground. I orient the breaker bar with cheater pipe so it is also pushing down.
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Fun to see. Thanks for sharing. What is your plan for the crank vent? If you connect back to the intake (per stock routing) then you need the hockey puck as a safety measure to help prevent diesel runaway. I think it is bad manners to vent to atmosphere.
It will run through a catch can and back into a custom pre-turbo stainless steel intake pipe.
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With the bald spots on those valve cover studs,
that might not be clamped down enough to seal.
Without additional washers.
Great exhaust build.
Here's apic of the MK2 downpipe I built:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49503489573_842f1b363a_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iqsjLV)td_outpipe (https://flic.kr/p/2iqsjLV) by vwfatmobile (https://www.flickr.com/photos/147103123@N05/), on Flickr
Big fan of the toilet bowl, ha.
That's how the stock one was supported.
Must agree wouldn't last long without support.
Also wanted to mention that looks like a solid crank holder.
and that torqueing that crank bolt works great with the engine sitting on the ground.
With that brace against the ground you can just push down on the breaker bar.
Hardly moves the engine at all.
All the force goes into the ground.
The rubber gasket comes with these built in metal grommets/washers where the studs are. The rubber gasket is really thick, so I was able to tighten them down with more than enough clamping force. There is also a spacer above the valve cover to add more height to help clear the bald spot. It is about 1/8" thick I think. It looks kind of like a long popsicle stick, it's an OEM part. It has a curvature to it, so it acts like a leaf spring. It is used to push down the valve cover in the spots between the studs for better sealing.
I've never seen a modified toilet bowl, but good on you for keeping it for the support! Too many people don't understand this and end up with short lived exhaust components.
And yes I used several slabs of 1/8" stainless steel to build the crank holder. Always better to overbuild and have something that won't fail.
That bolt was extremely tight, but using the stand to brace the crank holder worked really well, everything was stable and I didn't have to fight keeping the engine from tipping.
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Fun to see. Thanks for sharing. What is your plan for the crank vent? If you connect back to the intake (per stock routing) then you need the hockey puck as a safety measure to help prevent diesel runaway. I think it is bad manners to vent to atmosphere.
It will run through a catch can and back into a custom pre-turbo stainless steel intake pipe.
You should have the hockey puck in that loop. The hockey puck serves an additional purpose of cutting off flow from the block to intake if there is a significant pressure differential. That function helps to prevent engine runaway. Without that in the loop you will greatly increase your risk of runaway even with a catch can. Any intake restriction from a collapsing hose or an air filter getting somewhat clogged runs a decent risk of runaway without the puck in place.
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Those aren't the studs that come with the victor rubber valve cover gasket
but the bald spot looks about as big.
It feels like it's getting tight but it just hits the bald spot and doesn't clamp down.
Those are stock spacers too, so many have used them and it leaked because of the bald spots.
We won't really know until you start it up. It leaks alot when it does so you'll know right away.
I use set screws, blue locktited in. At the very least 1", more is better.
For the hockey puck I use the MK3 2.0 gasser puck.
Because the extra port gets run down to the front of the block AAZ styles.
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Those aren't the studs that come with the victor rubber valve cover gasket
but the bald spot looks about as big.
It feels like it's getting tight but it just hits the bald spot and doesn't clamp down.
Those are stock spacers too, so many have used them and it leaked because of the bald spots.
We won't really know until you start it up. It leaks alot when it does so you'll know right away.
I use set screws, blue locktited in. At the very least 1", more is better.
For the hockey puck I use the MK3 2.0 gasser puck.
Because the extra port gets run down to the front of the block AAZ styles.
Hmm, I can't explain what others have been doing wrong, but mine doesn't leak, and it is getting tight from clamping it down, not from hitting the bald spot.
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Fun to see. Thanks for sharing. What is your plan for the crank vent? If you connect back to the intake (per stock routing) then you need the hockey puck as a safety measure to help prevent diesel runaway. I think it is bad manners to vent to atmosphere.
It will run through a catch can and back into a custom pre-turbo stainless steel intake pipe.
You should have the hockey puck in that loop. The hockey puck serves an additional purpose of cutting off flow from the block to intake if there is a significant pressure differential. That function helps to prevent engine runaway. Without that in the loop you will greatly increase your risk of runaway even with a catch can. Any intake restriction from a collapsing hose or an air filter getting somewhat clogged runs a decent risk of runaway without the puck in place.
If a hose collapses, then the path from CCV back to intake would be blocked. Aside from that path, there is no other pre-turbo intake hose that can collapse, unless I'm pulling enough air to collapse a 3" stainless steel intake! ;)
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I deleted my prior post as in retrospect I thought it might be perceived as overly harsh.
The 'collapsing hose' reference was a theoretical as I do not know what air filter or intake system you are using. It referred to any hose prior to where the crank vent joins the intake. Even if your intake system is completely immune to the possibility of a collapsing hose causing an intake restriction, is it also immune to the possibility that the air filter could ever become even partially clogged? No chance of sucking up a plastic bag, leaves, bugs, dirt, etc... while driving? Runaway is quite dangerous (your engine will run uncontrollably at full power). It can also quickly ruin an otherwise perfect and very pretty new engine. What is the benefit to increasing that risk by eliminating an important safety feature of the engine? Is that benefit really worth the added risk to your own safety, your own property, and the safety and property of others on the road?
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I deleted my prior post as in retrospect I thought it might be perceived as overly harsh.
The 'collapsing hose' reference was a theoretical as I do not know what air filter or intake system you are using. It referred to any hose prior to where the crank vent joins the intake. Even if your intake system is completely immune to the possibility of a collapsing hose causing an intake restriction, is it also immune to the possibility that the air filter could ever become even partially clogged? No chance of sucking up a plastic bag, leaves, bugs, dirt, etc... while driving? Runaway is quite dangerous (your engine will run uncontrollably at full power). It can also quickly ruin an otherwise perfect and very pretty new engine. What is the benefit to increasing that risk by eliminating an important safety feature of the engine? Is that benefit really worth the added risk to your own safety, your own property, and the safety and property of others on the road?
Haha no worries! I'm removing it because it doesn't guarantee the prevention of runaway. It can prevent runaway situations of the type you suggested, but the engine can runaway from other means. It makes no sense to implement a runaway prevention device this far upstream of the intake system when failures may occur downstream. If I'm to implement such a system, it would be post turbo.
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Unless Giles didn't change much in the pump, when he builds them he usually adds a lot of dynamic advance and there is a performance loss if you time it to 1.05. Usually in his instructions he tells you to time it .85 to .95. The more advance just fights the piston as the advance he built into the pump takes over much faster than a stock pump.
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Haha no worries! I'm removing it because it doesn't guarantee the prevention of runaway. It can prevent runaway situations of the type you suggested, but the engine can runaway from other means. It makes no sense to implement a runaway prevention device this far upstream of the intake system when failures may occur downstream. If I'm to implement such a system, it would be post turbo.
I don't understand your logic. The hockey puck prevents all of the instances of runaway that can occur on a healthy engine. While there are other potential causes that the puck will not prevent, those all rely on the engine being thoroughly worn out or parts actually failing. Removing a safety feature that works 95% of the time because it "doesn't guarantee the prevention of runaway" for the outlier causes of a failing engine does not improve the system. It results in a dramatically less perfect system and to quote you, "makes no sense". You are gaining nothing by removing the puck, you are only increasing your own risk. Why?
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Unless Giles didn't change much in the pump, when he builds them he usually adds a lot of dynamic advance and there is a performance loss if you time it to 1.05. Usually in his instructions he tells you to time it .85 to .95. The more advance just fights the piston as the advance he built into the pump takes over much faster than a stock pump.
You are right! I have to change it back to 0.95mm, thank you!
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Haha no worries! I'm removing it because it doesn't guarantee the prevention of runaway. It can prevent runaway situations of the type you suggested, but the engine can runaway from other means. It makes no sense to implement a runaway prevention device this far upstream of the intake system when failures may occur downstream. If I'm to implement such a system, it would be post turbo.
I don't understand your logic. The hockey puck prevents all of the instances of runaway that can occur on a healthy engine. While there are other potential causes that the puck will not prevent, those all rely on the engine being thoroughly worn out or parts actually failing. Removing a safety feature that works 95% of the time because it "doesn't guarantee the prevention of runaway" for the outlier causes of a failing engine does not improve the system. It results in a dramatically less perfect system and to quote you, "makes no sense". You are gaining nothing by removing the puck, you are only increasing your own risk. Why?
Ah, I think you are missing the point, but that's okay! It will be explained in the future. Keep in mind, this thread is almost a year outdated, that video I uploaded was from last year November. A lot of the concerns brought up are not really an issue, since I'm able to look back at this in hindsight, but readers of this thread are unable to see into the future and the current state of the build, something that only I am able to. Just sit tight and be patient, updates will come, just don't stress out too much! ;)
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There's plenty of stress in my life at times, but how you have your intake is routed or whether or not your engine lasts well doesn't even make it onto the long list. Couldn't care less. Curiosity and helpfulness are the only reasons I have posted about it.