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For Sale/Looking For => Parts for Sale/Wanted => Topic started by: steevz on November 06, 2011, 09:37:41 pm
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I just broke my 1.6D camshaft tonight trying to get it out of the sprocket. My pullers arms were too short and broken a some of the round end piece. Need new one asap.
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where in BC are you? i have one from a 91 1.6 td i may part with....
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do you need the cam shaft or the pully? or both?
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Pullers take a tremendous amount of force to unseat a taper. A mild amount of pressure and and a rap on the puller bolt is highly effective. In the case of a VW diesel cam you NEVER need a puller. Perhaps in the future you should wait until someone responds to your posts before you proceed. Getting the cam sprocket off takes literally half a second. Being ham handed gets expensive. How in gods name did you break the cam, BTW?
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Toby, you got a cam to sell or just think you haven't pissed on him enough in the other two threads?
toby and i both told him how to get it off THE RIGHT WAY. then he goes and breaks it. so, hes obviously great at following advise.
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hell i had a cam to sell . he didnt reply lol ...... cam and pully..... i cant see how the cam broke....i can see the pully busting....oh well its all part of the learning curve lol we all do things different.... mainly when its something we have never done before.... a puller sure sounds and looks like thew right thing to use..... if you didnt know any better.... and a hammer seems so wrong... but it is the right tool for the job.... lol
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nah, i told him in a different thread, a while back, about backing the bolt out and hitting the back side of the pulley.
pullers DONT work good on tapered shafts. usually the piece you are trying to pull, deforms a TAD BIT, and it locks it on the shaft even tighter. ive broken a puller from a tapered shaft.
tie rod ends are my favorite. people always try and pound them out with the nut still on the threads, or just smack the threads with a hammer. my friends have tried for hours to get tie rod ends and ball joints before, and then i walk over to it, smack it hard, once, on the side of the piece, then they look at me like i have 2 heads.
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Which one of you guys are going to go get the keys from this newbie? I can't believe this multithreaded story. Kind of a super Mr. Murphy come to visit. Oh, no send him some bells. for the u know whats.
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he,s not that bad... seen alot worse on the goldwing forum.....every one has a learning curve .... soon he will know no ones really BS,ing him...... and we all are here to help in our own way lol
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Learning curve, yep, I do it all the time. Maybe if I could remember sh** I wouldn't always be learning. But what fun would that be. Most of my learning comes from my mistakes so I expect this gentleman to be learning big time on this one. Including like you said, no BS just helpful folks trying to be, well helpful.
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It could always be worse.. About 20 years ago a guy moved into the area and opened an import shop.. He came here from Germany, he had a funny mustache, and his name is Klause.. IF that isn't enough to make to make you trust him with your German car he also has a white coat with ASE patches...
A couple years ago when ULSD hit the stations, and everybody's pump started peeing I noticed that I started to get a couple cars with resealed pumps and new timing belts with tracking issues.. The cause was bent cam and/or IP sprockets.. I knew where they had the work done and being somewhat of a noob to the VW diesel world myself I thought that maybe this was something that could be easily done.
One day Klause came to visit me at my shop. He was driving his Audi, wearing his jacket with the ASE patch and sporting his funny mustache.. He got a lead that I had a bunch of VW parts about, and wondered of I had a junk head with a good front cam cap, a cam and sprocket..
Apparently he was removing sprockets with a big ole prybar! On this particular car he broke not only the cam, but the front cam cap on the head..
I've often wondered how he made out with that one...
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That's crazy!!!!! Seems like anybody could figure out that PRYING isn't gonna work too good.........
To get my IP pulley off I use a puller and after it's tight put a screw driver between the pulley and IP mount and give it a tap, doesn't take much.
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Even easier is to give the big puller bolt a sharp rap. That is all I ever need.
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I found a cam locally. Thanks though guys. I tried the rapping on the pulley. The tapered part snapped off inside the pulley.
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Now that is on there. Welded?
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I suspect that he was striking the sprocket perpendicular to the center line of the cam. I suspect you would crush the gear long before you broke the cam nose doing it the right way. (Parallel to the cam center line.)
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>:( ??? No soaking with PB blaster, no blasting with blow torch, no wonder it broke. I can't imagine it being on there like that. And I have seen some really rusted bolts in my time. Worst was my 69 Triumph wishbones 6 inches of solid metal frozen in place. Rode like a brick.
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I struck the back of the pulley, parallel to the camshaft. Maybe hit the edge of pulley on the side of the gear, and it just snapped.
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How many times did you hit it? With how big a sledge hammer?
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Like a 12oz hammer. A couple.
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I broke a cam a while back doing the same thing. Part of my mistake was in using one of those heavy orange hard rubber dead blows.
I loosened the bolt (so don't tell me I forgot it) only enough that it wasn't against the pulley, but way less than 1/2 turn out. And then I proceded to beat on it way too hard. After the nose broke off I couldn't undo the bolt with fingers so used a wrench (holding the pulley with my hand so it wasn't 33ft-lbs and then I used a drift and METAL hammer knocked the stub out of the pulley, it was still pretty tight.
My theory is that all my beatings and turning the pulley so as to beat on another spot must have vibrated the bolt and made it turn back in. I'd used the rubber hammer before and it took tons of hitting but this time I'd hit it way more before it gave.
Now I use a metal hammer and give it a sharp (not hard!!!!) whack or two and it pops right off.
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Yeah, my whack wasn't sharp enough. The bolt was loose but I needed to put the sprocket in the vice and stick chisel in there and it took a good whack to get it out.
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It would be MUCH better to remove the sprocket with the cam still in the head. Putting the sprocket in a vise is asking for trouble. It would be much better to lay the sprocket across the open vise jaws with the cam pointing down, but it is still a poor choice. It does not take much to separate them if you do it correctly.
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It would be MUCH better to remove the sprocket with the cam still in the head. Putting the sprocket in a vise is asking for trouble. It would be much better to lay the sprocket across the open vise jaws with the cam pointing down, but it is still a poor choice. It does not take much to separate them if you do it correctly.
yea, if i had it out, and in one piece, i would lay the sprocket across the vice, then give the bolt a sharp rap with a hammer. not hard, just sharp.
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Isn't he talking about putting the pulley in the vice after it broke off? That is what I was reading. Trying to get the piece that was still in there out.
I think I would put the pulley on the visejaws and rap out the stub that was broken off. I wouldn't crimp the pulley at all. Supporting it from the back with the jaws just a wee bit bigger than the hole and watch to be sure it doesn't walk over the jaw face.
One rap and look, then reset and rap again.
But he already has it out.
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Isn't he talking about putting the pulley in the vice after it broke off? That is what I was reading. Trying to get the piece that was still in there out.
Yup