VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.
Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: arb on August 12, 2008, 01:39:11 pm
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I am several months into a project to make a real economy van. I have a 92' caravan w/ manual trans from Virginia (no rust) that I am putting a real engine / trans into. I'm documenting everything, including the most interesting so far - removing the power rack & pinion for a new manual rack & pinion :-)
One question, does anyone have a coolant system diagram from my 1982.5 turbo block ? I know the large hose on the bottom of the pump is for the bottom of the radiator, the large hose at the side of the head is the top radiator hose, but the other 3 I am not clear on - I'm guessing the small hose on the pump that connects to the steel tube is for the heater core return ? and the large hose at the end of the head (pointing to the trans) is for the header tank ?
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have you seen the guy on youtube who has done the conversion???
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Yeah, Davesfarm. Interesting collection of videos he has. I found him searching for some validation of the project I started so my new wife would not think I was completely nuts about diesels ;-)
I had not thought to ask him this basic VW IDI question anyone with a IDI should know or at least see under their hood. The heater core inlet / outlet are not critical as long as I know which ones on the engine are for the heater core... this would leave the last unknown to go to the pressure tank :-)
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/Picture004.jpg)
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some pics. of your set up would help? the outlet on the transmission is for the heater core hose and then there is a steel prebent line that comes around from the water pump for a return or inlet one of the 2? also has a port for the resivore !
hope that helps?
Duane
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(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v603/burnyourmoney/picture2.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v603/burnyourmoney/picture1.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v603/burnyourmoney/PC040197.jpg)
Not a 82 but pretty much the same
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Great !! I see now. Perfect.
One question ? Dodge has a coolant sut-off valve in the heater core as part of their design. What will happen to my head cooling if I keep the Dodge valve ? It looks like the end of the head will run hotter. Should I move the valve to a new line between 2 new "T"'s in the core lines - thus when it is open it will allow coolant to bypass the heater core ? Or, does VW have a similar valve inside the passenger compartment ?
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VW used that valve on the mk1s but have not used it since. There are still lots of MK1s driving around if that tells you anything
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Should I post photos ?
Thanks for the cooling chart. It all comes back to me now from my years of driving Rabbits & Jettas with the 1.5 / 1.6.
I installed a new tensioner / Good Year USA timing belt. I clocked everything by the book 7 times or so, but every time when I tried to rotate my engine before setting the injection, it felt like I was hitting a valve at 170 degrees in either direction....
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/103_4255.jpg)
So, I pulled the head. The # 2 cylinder has near TDC a valve that was nearly open in a humid environment - evidently because the carbon deposits at the head became coated with aluminum oxide from the piston and head. Here are a couple photos.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/103_4256.jpg)
One of these chunks came loose and stacked on another offering the interference I felt. The glow plugs are out for this task. I cleaned it up - (http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/103_4259.jpg)
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After torque the head bolts per the previous posts, I installed the new Goodyear timing belt and new idler following the same procedure I used 6 times before I pulled the head.
My engine now cycles smooth as silk !! I have photos of the carbon stack that preventing it from turning over before I pulled the head, after changing the belt. Mind you, it turned over fine before I pulled the original belt.
Here's my IP locking tool
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/Picture003.jpg)
Before I put the belt back on, I used a cordless drill and a socket to spin the intermediate shaft CCW to primp all the bearings. Worked great !! It was not my idea, but from when I built Chevy small blocks. I allowed quite a bit of oil to flow from the cam - I might do the same when I get the new turbo plumbed. It came with an instruction sheet talking about putting my fingers into the intake of the turbo for the first start. They said to hold back the turbine for a few minutes to allow oil to circulate the TC.
I have a friend with half his ring finger ground off from putting it into a turbo.
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Do you have the engine installed in the van yet? Are you using the VW or Dodge trans?
Brian
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Hi Brian, I hope to have the engine in the van Sunday. First, the exhaust manifold I was sold by someone in Texas was not as he claimed - it was in fact a Audi 5 cyclinder.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/103_4163.jpg)
I had to cut off the fifth runner can TIG weld it off with high carbon cast iron welding rod.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/103_4239.jpg)
I still have to finish faboricating the manifold to turbo bracket. It is nearly complete, but I wanted to have the head / engine ready to install first. They are as of last night. The turbo exhaust manifold / down pipe I had to fab. Like the manifold / turbo, I used S.S. tube and S.S. TIG welding plus 1/4 plate tool steel.
The trans is the VW 5 speed w/ OD, I have to get the numbers off the trans as I forget which one I have.
I've been making photos of everything. Here is the turbo to manifold flange
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/103_4326.jpg)
Here is my turbo down-pipe - the inside tube for both is S.S.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/103_4302.jpg)(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/103_4310.jpg)
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I'm getting close to having the new GT15 turbo mounted on the engine. I made the stupid mistake of drilling a hole in the exhaust manifold for a future EGT probe. Stupid because I used a cordless drill when I have a great drill press with 2 axis precision chuck. I even used the machinists drill starter. All was well. The first drill when all the way through without a problem. Then I stepped up the 5/16 bit the 1/8" NPT tap requires. Most of the way into the final cut, the bit snagged and I cracked my manifold !!!
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/103_4291.jpg)
Man was I pissed. On to plan "B". So I TIG welded the hole and the crack with high carbon filler rod for repairing cast iron. This was on the bottom of the manifold. Next I moved the manifold to the drill press and did the job properly. Tapping was un-remarkable. For the time being I have a 1/8" plug screwed into the hole at the junction of 1 - 2 runners. The threads I covered with red high temp RTV.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/103_4297.jpg)
I ceramic spray coated the exterior of the manifold and mounted it with S.S. bolts and lock washers.
Tonight the final brackets get made for the Garrett. I have not finalized their shape yet. I had a 90 degree S.S. elbow half fabricated, but when I test mounted the turbo, it is too close to the half shaft. I started it this was as it would have made the setup more compact.
Here's one of the flanges I made to mount the GT15
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/Picture023.jpg)
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Are you splicing VW axles to Dodge axles? I did this in a 300hp 914 powered by a Ford 2.3t. I made mild steel couplers on my lathe, pressed in both axle halves and MIG welded them. I also drilled into the coupler and rosette welded. Then I put the shafts on V blocks with a dial indicator. I used my H press to true them to less tha .005" runout. I drove that car at over 130 mph with no discernable vibration.
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Yes, that is what I am doing. I am going to use my dial indicator to true them in the car rather than v-blocks. I'm not looking for speed beyond 75 mph.
I like inner CV joints on the VW better than the Chrysler version, mainly due to the way they bolt to the trans rather than slipping into the transaxel. The Chrysler wheel bearing assembly is designed for higher loads, though.
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I think that will work fine. However, you will also be measuring runout in the CV joints themselves. Also, if there is any play in the joints you may not get a good reading. I ended up with less than .005" runout but you could probably run 75mph with .020 or so. I've made RWD (tubular) shafts with .035 and you could feel the vibration at freeway speeds (but CV shafts turn slower than RWD shafts). I never balanced my solid shafts, I just put them on the lathe and turned down the couplers.
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Did you make the CRX-squared that was in Car & Drive a number of years back ?
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No, but I read about it. I've done six major conversions: Liquid Cooled Mid Engine Bug, Ford 302 powered Mazda Rotary 4x4 truck, Mustang 5.0 EFI powered Mitsubishi 2WD truck, Mercedes turbo diesel w123 wagon 4x4, Camaro 3.8 V6 powered Volvo 245 wagon 4x4, 1974 All Wheel Drive Honda Civic. Now I'm building a single seat VW 1.6TD powered street car. You can read about these vehicles at engineconversions.org. We'd love to have a write up of your Caravan there, too.
Brian
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OK, getting close to mounting the 1.6L in the Caravan...
I bought a new set of steam gauges for it. The oil pressure, turbo boost, and voltage are easy, but the temperature gauge is posing a real problem.. Being as important as the oil, I really need to know if a hose blows. The bulb is a tad larger than the stock fitting the stock temp senders screw into. How have other used a mechanical temperature gauge on our engine ? Is there a spot on the head to drill & Tap a 1/4" NPT ? Other ideas?
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I guess no one has a mechanical coolant temp gauge. OK, I'll punt. I bought a 3/4" aluminum tube yesterday. I'll cut off 2.5" of it to modify my housing the 2 temp gauge sending units are screwed into. I've removed it from the head. I'll drill out the rear sending unit's hole to 3/4" and insert this short piece of tube into it and TIG weld in in place.
Next I'll drill and tap a 1/4 NPT hole into a piece of aluminum bar stock that's 1/4 thick. Then I'll cut the circle around it to form a plug for the end of this housing. It too will be welded in place. This will allow the temp probe to be mostly inside the head, while leaving me a 3/4 fitting for the expansion tank. This also means I'll have a cheap radiator hose to replace for the expansion tank rather than the more costly formed hose.
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I tried to mount the TD oil filter flang to the block last night. I had modified it slightly. The clean side supply fitting for the turbo was a thread none of my auto stores had in stock, so I removed it and re-tapped it for 1/4" NPT. This allowed me to use an inverted brake line elbow in it place. The oil supply now will use low cost high quality coated steel brake lines up to an inverted flare union. On the other side, there will be a flare fitting placed on the end of the OEM flexible turbo line. The GT15 retains it OEM fitting.
Then I tried to mount the flang, but its base is almost 1 cm taller than the stock flang, so I'll use some S.S. 8m x 1.25 bolts I bought for the manifolds. Tonight I hope to have the turbo on and oil plumbed. I'll be spinning up the oil pump with a cordless drill until I see lots of oil coming from the turbo's drain line. I don't like the risks of clamping on to the turbo for initial start up.
The question is, do I really need to scrap off the old flang gasket and use a new one ?
As always, if anyone wants photos posted, ask. Otherwise I guess you visualize what's been said.
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OK, I mounted my turbo oil filter flange / oil cooler and ran a new brake line half way to the turbo. Interesting thing, the flange holds the filter close to the bell housing and does not allow the metal tube from the water pump to the heater core to be used. I guess I'll run a new hose from the pump to the heater core w/o a rusty metal tube between them.
I'll also have to check the filter to be sure it does not rub a hole in it from vibrating against the bell housing. I'm using the over sized all synthetic extended run Mobil 1 filter.
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OK, I asked if people wanted photos, glad to do so. I just post a could on the first page and will upload many more tomorrow.
Thanks for the suggestion.
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Getting real close to mounting the engine...
The trickiest part so far was pulling the power steering rack & pinion and replacing with a new manual rack. Dodge offered it up to 1990 - in the 1st generation caravan. Mine is 1992, the 2nd gen. So, the only difference is the end of the shaft where the steering column connects. The 1990 has a slightly longer input shaft with a smaller coarse spline. The 1992 has a larger diameter fine spline.
I cut the end off a bone yard 1992 and drilled it out.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/103_4193.jpg)
I cut the end off my new manual 1990 and ground it round to fit the hole in the fine spline -
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/103_4195.jpg)
I then slid this fine spline over it, then TIG welded it.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/103_4196.jpg)
For extra safety, I drilled the U-joint / spline and ran a stainless steel bolt through them both.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/103_4201.jpg)
I also added many photos to this thread.
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Looks like it will work just fine to me.
What dod you do about your temp gauge? I'm looking for pics..
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Here's how I got my standard SunPro mechanical temp gauge to work and eliminated one of the "formed" hoses:
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4353.jpg)
I took a 3/4 slab of 6061 aluminum and hole saw cut a 7/8" plug out.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4354.jpg)
Then I drilled it with a 7/16 bit to accept the 1/4" NPT tap. I then removed the 2 stock temp senders and TIG welded this into the flange the heater hose connects to on the head - the one with the 2 temp probes for the glow plus and the temp light.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4370.jpg)
Man, what a low quality grade aluminum VW used for this. Really high in impurities.
Next I 3/4" drilled out the threads for the temp sensor at the rear of the flange. I put a 3" aluminum tube into this hole and TIG welded it there for the header hose. Now I no longer need the expensive formed header hose that goes from 1" to 3/4" or what ever it is...
Then I tapped the 7/16 hole in the flange and screwed the brass fitting into it that came with the mechanical temp gauge, with high temp RTV on the threads for added safety.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4374.jpg)
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I had diesel smoke in the garage last night for the first time !!!
I wanted to primp my injectors before mounting the engine in the Caravan. So, I installed the starter and cables, fuel lines and filter/separator. The IP lines are loose at the injectors. I also wanted to prime the oil supply to the new turbo before starting. I cranked the engine for a few, but no fuel was moving, but I did primp the new turbo.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4376.jpg)
I love those clear OEM lines.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4377.jpg)
Do you see why there was not flow ? LOL !! I felt a little foolish I cranked it 2 or 3 revolutions before I realized my mistake. That little red wire for the fuel cut-off solenoid was not powered !! OK, I powered that and cranked on and off for a few minutes, keeping close tabs on the starter for heat. No luck. The IP was not pulling the fuel - too much air in every part I guess. I was thinking of installing a low pressure lift pump just in case I ever ran out of fuel it would be much easier to primp. Here is the setup - the fuel pump in sitting on the 5 gal tank:
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4378.jpg)
It worked great !! The fuel pump slowly pushes the execess fuel out the IP fuel return line. Is it just me, or does that fuel look more yellow ?
While I was at it changing things, I did the primo GP wiring.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4375.jpg)
One more detail - notice how close the filter is to the bell housing ? It actually is touching. I love these over sized fully synthetic filters, so I think I should pull the filter and file down that corner of the bell housing as it could rub a hole in the filter.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/103_4348-1.jpg)[/list]
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When I put the new head gasket on, I oculdn't find the studs locally, so I took 2 of the old stock bolts and cut off the heads, then used the cut-off grinder to cut screw driver slots in the tops.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/103_4267.jpg)
Here they are in the block. They really helded aligning the block, gasket, head when I installed it.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/103_4276.jpg)
Here's the magnetic puller removing these studs after the other new head bolts were installed finger tight.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/103_4284.jpg)
Most of my valve cover studs where rusted beyond service. I had to cut the heads off the stainless steel bolts I used to make the studs.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/103_4341.jpg)
Here's the installed look. I put red lock-tight on the threads of the stud into the head as well as on the S.S. nut.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/103_4342.jpg)
Still looking for advice on the oil filter rubbing the bell housing. - Should I file off the corner of the bell housing so it doesn't rub a hole in the side of the filter ?
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/103_4348-1.jpg)
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have never seen the oil filter and cooler on an angle like that. All the 1.6td ive seen have the oil filter and cooler straight down , perpendicular to the car. What shell was your 1.6 born in?
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from the gearbox mounts it looks like its from a mk1 golf right?
as giulianot said, a mk2 oil filter would be pointing straight down.
but as you said a little grinding could also get you some slack, a few mm would suffice.
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Like the so called Rabbit turbo manifold I bought, I took the guys word for it the oil cooler / filter flange were for a TD IDI Rabbit.
That was before I found this group. I found many others, but this looks like the best so far.
Tonight I did the metrics for my engine bay and where to place the IDI. The main question is how high about the level centerline of the axles should the transaxle shaft flange be ? I am guessing about 2 - 3 inches to allow for wheel droop without them binding on the "K" frame. The K cars have a bit wider stance than the Rabbit.
Tomorrow I buy more argon.
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you could always get an oil filter relocation kit. would be nice because i really don't like removing the oil filter while on an angle... it just spills all over!
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I thought about a relocator kit and still might do that as I too don't like dumping oil on the ground.
An up side I discovered last night while doing the metrics for the engine mounts is with the filter at the angle the bell housing will not work as the anti torque engine mount. I will have to use the 3 bosses on the side of the block under the dip stick. I should also use the optional one on the back of the differential.
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Thought I'd have the car running down the steet today, But Ike had other ideas. We got dumped on in Michigan this weekend. Too much water to drop the engine in. I did fab the main motor mount. It is 5" furher and 3" down from the stock mount. Photos to follow.
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OK, a few days back I ran new oil lines for the GT15 turbo. I am a cheekskate so I used 5/16 brake lines and spliced it to that oil line from the scammer sold broken turbo from TX. Here are the photos of feeding the line:
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4352.jpg)
Here's the prefab:
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4350.jpg)
So far so good until my very cheep brake line bender broke. I was going to weld it:
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4351.jpg)
So I try to weld it, but it was made with crap metal I think....
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4355.jpg)
OK, I gave up wasting time and bought a good bender. $8.99
(http://www.partsamerica.com/product_images/img/pbi/648484.jpg)
almost ready to hang the package - Here's the almost finished front engine mount - VW / Dodge.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4382.jpg)
Finished - notice the fail-safe bolt throgh both mounts ?
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4383.jpg)
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That angled filter mount appears to be the style used on the longitudinally mounted engines, like in the dashers and audis. The transverse styles should point more directly straight down. You can also try using the smaller gas engine oil filter, you will lose the higher capacity, but the smaller circumference would clear the bellhousing. The gas engine fram number, (crap brand, but the only one i can recall from memory) is 2870.
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Thanks for the tip on the filter. I might do that if using a belt sander to knock off 1/4" from the corner of the bellhousing does not work. These Mobil 1 filters are all synthetic and designed for extended run. I will still change it every 7K miles and dump the oil every 25K miles. By then, the oil will have been changed over once anyway as this filter is nearly half the volume of the pan.
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OK, last night I replaced the timing belt covers. The lower one I had to modify a little because of the 4" C channel engine mount extender. I did not want too much bending forces on it as 5" is quite long.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4384.jpg)
I think with the top cover holding it against the block, the other 2 bolts will hole the lower cover in place.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4385.jpg)
Next I made the turbo support bracket. I did not want all that weight pulling down on the exhaust manifold. The first photo you see the garbage weld from using Stick welding to tack it down before I moved it to the vise for a TIG weld.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4387.jpg)(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4386.jpg)
Tonight I will bolt it on and faboricate the trans mount. At least that is the plan.
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OK, the turbo is mounted and supported !! Here's the pic:
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4391.jpg)
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4389.jpg)
Next, I mounted the Dodge 3 way pulley on the crank. It bolts right on. I wanted the serpentine belt as well as the stock V belt for the water pump and A/C. The Serpentine would have ran the alternator. BUT, no dice, there was not enough clearance.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4392.jpg)
So, I compromised. The primary V pulley and the serpentine were once piece, but the outer V pulley was held onto with 3 dimples. I drilled them out and cleaned up the stock crank V pulley and the outer Dodge pulley. I will still have A/C when I want it - in the winter I might remove the A/C V belt, but the water pump and a different single wire Ford alternator will have the stock V belt arrangement. Notice the top photo shows the serpentine / V belt pulley from the Dodge, and the right pulley is the stock VW. The left pulley is the outer V belt. The fresh paint will be dry tomorrow and I will try this again. Actually, I dry fitted them with the water pump pulley before painting ;-)
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4394.jpg)
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how does the timing belt cover go back on if you welded to the ip support?
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how does the timing belt cover go back on if you welded to the ip support?
The upper metal cover is not affected. The lower plastic cover's attach fitting on the upper left side is under the new motor mount I welded to the IP support. This area of the plastic cover is rigid and it held against the block by the upper metal cover as well. I removed about half the material at this upper left attach pint, so there is still structure to keep it from contacting the timing belt.
It was a compromise. Making this mount 3x longer than stock increases the loads quite a bit, so the strong mount was important.
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Last night I got a few more things done. I have my crank and water pump pulley's secured. Now I have to dig up my spare alternator with a V belt. The single wire new one I have has a serpentine belt pulley on it :-( See the aluminum casting on the floor ? If I can find a way to mount it on the cast iron bracket for the VW alternator, I can direction bolt the Caravan alternator and A/C pump to it.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4395.jpg)
I turned my attention to the turbo drain line. Look how low it is on the engine. Does anyone else have this low of a line ? This means there will be some pooling in the line. Is that OK ? Will that damage the oil seals in the turbo ? My plan was to run a rubber fuel line - 3/4" in ID back to the front of the block to the vac pump vent. I didn't want it near the half shaft at the pan.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4396.jpg)
Next I turned my attention to the other motor mounts. I removed the VW mount from the trans. One of the bolts had quite a bit of aluminum oxide holding in the trans. I will use the Caravan mount's rubber isolator.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4398.jpg)
Here is the rusty 4" C channel I used for the other motor mount. It was reclaimed after years of service at a now closed Hoover plant. It is possible it actually helped make the foam in the seats of this very caravan.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4397.jpg)
One key way to get quality welds is to TIG weld with a sharp point on the tungsten. I use my disc sander to remove build-up.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4400.jpg)
Here is the wing for the mount. The VW mounting bolts are just over 4" apart. A wire wheel got the rust off the C channel.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4401.jpg)
Yes, that's 163 amps !! I wanted deep penetration.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4402.jpg)
Here's the weld on the top side. Looks better on the bottom ;-)
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4403.jpg)
Bottom weld. - Excessive ?
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4404.jpg)
Here's how I will be mounting the trans -
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4406.jpg)
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Nice job buddy..keep up the good work! 8)
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wow that is some conversion. And I was worried about moving my mounts a 1/4" to the rear. :D
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Where did you acquire the engine?
I found the engine just over 2 years back from a DCX trades guy. He posted the complete engine / trans on craigslist for $200. Then my contract there was not renewed and he held it for over a year for me... when I got there, he had a box of extra parts he gave me - 3 injection pumps, a NEW vac pump, a used vac pump, extra injectors, a new half shaft, and many others... $$$ on ebay. Then, he gave me a 220 pound milk crate sold with welding rods - someone stole his arc welder and he was excited that I was doing the caravan ;-)
I see aluminum oxide was sticking one valve open. Glad to see it was not anything worse.
Yeah, I was worried about that #2 cylinder.
Good idea to place a new timing belt and tensioner on it. I don't understand why you have to do so much fabrication to fit a Turbo. Didn't the turbo come with it? And what's with the exhaust manifold? Didn't come with it either? You received a five cylinder manifold, not a 4 cylinder manifold from a Ebay purchase? But you made it work. Amazing.
This engine was not a turbo, but the block was a turbo. It has the turbo oil spray for the pistons... stock turbos did not have a intercooler, so they had lots of heat to dump. Mine will have intercooler. I wanted the turbo as it increases the efficiency - more O2 to burn fuel = less smoke. The injection pump is not a turbo, so I will simply have more O2..... Yeah, the jerk sold me an Audi turbo and manifold - said it would bolt on. Got it and the turbo was junk and there was that extra hole !!! He would not return calls and I got laid off again, so no $$$ to go through the cycle again. I did find a NEW turbo on eBay for $299. Its a Garrett. That's why all the fabrication.
I would take the Dodge halfshafts and the VW halfshafts to a local prop shaft fabricator and have them match them up and balance them.
I might have to get them balanced. I've talked with 2 guys who have spliced half shafts like this. If I keep the run out to less than 0.020" I will be OK to 80 mph. One guy put a second engine in a Honda CRX and had it to 130 mph !! His are to 0.005" - they both said for mine if I used my magnetic mount dial indicator on the K frame, I will be able to tack weld it true. Then finish welding. I'll try it. Ideally I'd make a spline for both that allowed me to change one half at a time when the CV join needs replacing. I'm looking forward to 500,000 miles. The both is from Virginia so no rust :-) I replaced the rear wheel bearings and have new 15" hubs for the front - it came with 14".... I want the taller tires for more mpg.
What are your plans with the low pressure fuel delivery from the tank?
I have that low pressure electronic pump you see in the pump will be mounted in line just before the filter / water separated. It free flows with off. I'll have a separate toggle switch next to the glow plug switch. I don't want to rely on the factory glow plug relay. I had a diesel rabbit's relay stick once and it burned out the plugs - $60 at that time. W/o them, you can't cold start unless your spin the engine very fast - as in a big hill or a push start with a car. I pulled the tank for 2 reasons - one is to remove the high pressure pump in the tank. I hope it is easy to still use the factory pickup. The second is the fuel filler neck needs to be opened up to the full diameter. I want to be able to fill at truck stops too. They have a really big hose.
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OK Guys, I am sorry if my title of tonight's progress offends anyone. Today I really did drive past the Orthodox Ukrainian Church on the boarder of Detroit I married my wife less than 3 years ago... :-P
So, even though Friday Night is devoted to my newly web "Second Start on life" - I simply had to get progress in the shop....
Tonight I fabed the trans mount and half of the anti-torque front mount. Here is the dimentional sizing of the trans main mount...
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4409.jpg)
Here is the back bracing of this mount.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4408.jpg)
Here is the welding of the engine part of the anti - torque trans front mount. I understand some of you do not use the rear mount....
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4412.jpg)
Here it is on the block...
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4413.jpg)
Here's my improvised way to cut an angle iron mount from the 4" C channel. This will be used to offset the main engine mount on the passenger side if I need to index the engine toward the rear so I have clearance for the down pipe.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4411.jpg)
We will see what tomorrow will bring as I start re-roofing the shop in 8 hours. ;-P
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"Boo" ..for roofing and "yahhhh" for conversion
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I'm getting too old to be doing roofing in 85 degree sun. A small breeze would have been a big help, so the job is not done yet. I could not stay away from the project with it so close to being done, so I finished the trans mount Saturday after the sun went down. Here it is ready to be bolted to the trans.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4418.jpg)
Here it is mounted from the driver's side view.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4421.jpg)
And again from the center firewall view.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4422.jpg)
Had the flue Sunday and yesterday. Hope to get more done tonight after the sun sets. I have about 5 days before it gets wet in my garage :-)
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I like diesel work much better than construction. But, I can't have water dripping on the tools - When Ike blew through Michigan 10 days back, I had such water from the 3 old layers of shingles. It will be a couple days before its done. The engine is almost ready to be dropped in.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/IMGP5304.jpg)
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No more shingles, my garage and engine are dry !
I moved the gas tank into the garage last night to remove the high pressure in tank pump. I hope to use the pump's pickup tube and screen. More photos to follow and suggestions requested !
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/103_4102a.jpg)
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OK guys, I have learned that it does not matter if I have personally done more than a dozen re-roofs in years past, when you pass 40 the toll on your body is beyond the expected !! This, even if I now own roofing nailers and compressors. Oh Well. In the words of my Dad - Bert Arbogast - "Its hell growing old"
So, I have taken apart my stock Caravan fuel tank sending / pickup unit.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/108_4423.jpg)
I first rotated the locking ring...
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/108_4424.jpg)
WOW !! This allowed me to se that the sending unit is part of the high pressure fuel pump / return fuel unit. I require 2 of these 3 tasks.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/108_4425.jpg)
Notice the screan / 2" x 2" mat at the end of the unit. This is actually the HP pump's return system.
I decided to remove the HP pump and make my own pickup line and replace the pickup line with a return line... and the new pick up line would use the unit's return line - sort of a reversal of tasks. :-)
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/108_4426.jpg)
Here you can see some of the local guys at GoodYear still make fuel lines sold in USA as "Made in USA"
"There is no replacement for displacement"
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/108_4427.jpg)
What might be of interest here is the fact that I made a pick up line of 5/16 coated brake line for the pickup line and that I made a flaired fittting to connect to the factory return line inside the fuel tank.
[/img]
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I destroyed the new oil filter getting it off so I could remove some material from the bellhousing. Good thing I did this before it is installed in the Caravan.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/108_4430.jpg)
I used a flat file to remove the 1/4"
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/108_4437.jpg)
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One last coat of rust prevention paint to the top side of the fuel tank.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/108_4429.jpg)
Currently I am fabricating the mounts for the A/C compressor and the alternator. I did not get the VW alternator with this engine and the Chrysler alternator has a serpentine pulley. The Chrysler engine has an aluminum cradle for the compressor and one end of the alternator. Using this would place the alternator much lower than I would like - just below the water pump.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/108_4431.jpg)
It has a longer side plate than the VW engine would allow for, so I cut it off with a sawall.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/108_4432.jpg)
Next I cut some 4" C channel for a mounting plate for this cradle. It will be attached to the VW alternator mounting bracket as well as the side engine mount I am making.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/108_4433.jpg)
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Back to the parts store... I had selected a DL7078 alternator from Autozone as it has a life time warranty and cost $45 plus a $10 core. The web site shows the regulator to be internal. It was spec'ed for a 1985 F-150... I got it home an realized it was an external. Since I want a single wire alternator setup, so I took it back and got a DL7127M - $5 more for the core, but can be done single wire. Its a 63 amp unit.
The stock alternator for this engine would have been 65 amps and cost $102 plus a $20 core.
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Last night I did some fabricating of the A/C compressor - Alternator mounts. First I cut the bracket from VW so new steel flats could be added.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/108_4442.jpg)
I ran a steel tube through the bottom VW alternator hole for an alignment reference. From this and the flat spot the top VW bracket bolt holes goes through I had references for all three axis. No micrometer, but several squares proved to be within 1/16" in all axis. That should be close enough.
Next I bolted the Chrysler bracket to the 2 pieces of flat stock and tack welded all 4 corners to the VW bracket with a stick welder. After cleaning these dirty welds I switched to TIG and the rod for welding mild steel to cast iron. It seems to have worked well.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/108_4443.jpg)
Flipping the assembly over I welded from the other side. Tonight I should have the alternator on the engine and only have the shifter and anti torque brackets to make.
Here's the other side of the assembly.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/108_4444.jpg)
This new extention to the VW bracket will be triangulated to the front engine anti torque mount.
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Tonight was all about the compressor and the alternator -
Here it is bolted to the engine. Notice the trim marks where I'll remove metal:
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/108_4445.jpg)
I almost forgot about the compressor idler pulley - here is where it needs to be:
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/108_4446.jpg)
This metal will be used for the idler mount:
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/108_4447.jpg)
Here it is ready for the mounting plate to be welded on:
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/108_4448.jpg)
Before I get too much dust on the filter flange, I better put a filter back on. I almost bought another M-304 like I destroyed, but I found this new M1-204 in my collection - its the "Stock" VW diesel filter, but it about half the length of the M-304 I'll be using after this one has 5,000 miles on it.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/108_4450.jpg)
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Did you put a restrictor in the turbo oil supply line?
The turbo can't handle full oil pressure.
Nice job, so the weird angled oil filter mount worked out better than a normal oil filter mount that points straight downward?
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Did you put a restrictor in the turbo oil supply line?
The turbo can't handle full oil pressure.
Nice job, so the weird angled oil filter mount worked out better than a normal oil filter mount that points straight downward?
A restricter ? Could this be in the stock oil line ? I used the flexible line from a stock VW turbo and extended it with the brake line to the filter flange. What does this restricter look like ?
As far as it being better angled ? Humm. It prevents me from using the starter motor bolts for the side anti torque engine mount, but makes it easier to stablize the compressor / alternator mount.
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I found this new M1-204 in my collection - its the "Stock" VW diesel filter, but it about half the length of the M-304 I'll be using after this one has 5,000 miles on it.
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Me either, I've had a few apart now and no restrictions there...
Just looked like the bearings did the restriction.
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My understanding was that the bearing type used in the turbo determined whether or not it needed a restrictor. The journal type used in all VWs will take full pressure (and need it) while the ball bearing types require a restrictor both because they don't need the oil pressure to keep the parts from self-destructing and because they will pass enough oil to cause pressure loss in the rest of the system.
Andrew
That's my understanding too. Can someone explain better ?
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My understanding was that the bearing type used in the turbo determined whether or not it needed a restrictor. The journal type used in all VWs will take full pressure (and need it) while the ball bearing types require a restrictor both because they don't need the oil pressure to keep the parts from self-destructing and because they will pass enough oil to cause pressure loss in the rest of the system.
Andrew
That's my understanding too. Can someone explain better ?
I'm not sure you are going to get a better explanation than that really.
Ball bearing turbo needs some type of restriction, wet bearing do not.
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Yes, the concept is clear - I was looking for something like:
GT15 is sleve, T3 is ball bearing, etc.
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Yes, the concept is clear - I was looking for something like:
GT15 is sleve, T3 is ball bearing, etc.
Ah I see..
Pretty much every turbo on the market is a sleeve type bearing.
Aftermarket has been building some ball bearing turbos and a few OE mfg have been installing them on trucks. I think the new Power Strokes have BB turbos.
Anyway, if your in doubt and you have a turbo in your hand give the shaft a spin. If it just keep goooooing it's prob BB if it spins a few times then stops it's sleeve. Aside from taking it apart or calling the MFG that the best bet.
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In the last few days I have gotten much closer to hanging the engine in the car. I could have done this weeks ago, but it would be a bit harder to make the various brackets for the alternator and a/c compressor. It they don't fit, I have my priorities set so I'll be cutting some Dodge body parts to make them fit !! :-)
I almost forgot about the idler pulley for the a/c compressor - since the compressor is fixed mounted, it requires one. Good thing I happened to have one in my collection. Here's the mounts being taped, I also welded a nut to the back side so I could be sure of good clamping forces.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/108_4451.jpg)
Here it is being welded to the assembly:
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/108_4453.jpg)
And a view from the bottom side:
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/108_4454.jpg)
Here's the alternator mount being fab'd:
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/108_4455.jpg)
A check of the idler pulley mount shows that welding warped the flat spot, so I used the TIG torch to heat and bend it back.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/108_4457.jpg)
Here is where I tied the new bracket to the side engine anti-torque mount.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/108_4459.jpg)
The alternator is on the engine. I need some place to secure the adjustment end of the alternator, I wish there was another place but I could not see it so its going on the front.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/108_4461.jpg)
Something like this - the 2 corners will have 7/16 bolts to give good clamping forces.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/108_4462.jpg)
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WOW !!! Maybe I will be re-making the tensioning bracket - I just saw on 53 Willy's post that with standoffs the 2 bosses on the rear side of the engine can be use !
(http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j240/53willys/1991%20Jetta%20GLI%20diesel%20conversion/DSC_0442.jpg)[/list]
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I must have misread on the restritor in the turbo oil line.
I thought that's what the connector at the filter was.
Thanks for doing such a great writeup on this.
I always thought when the minivans came out that some day I might own one,.. when they were old enough to be affordable. Now I just play with VW diesels so didn't imagine that happening,... until now. :D
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Yeah, the Caravan was had for $485 from craigslist with the factory 5 speed on the floor - with almost the same clutch cable and cables to shift was the VW uses so this part is very easy to convert. It had a current Virginia title and there is NO rust on the body. It needs pain like most sun baked cars, but that's better than rust.
On the alternator tensioner, I looked further - the 2 bosses in the block where the stock bracket would bolt are very rusty, and they push on the alternator, so I'm going to use the pulling tensioner I built. I might change the very end that attaches to the bottom of the alternator to a screw jack. I measured and there is enough room in the engine bay to keep this bracket.
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what are you doing for steering?power or manual.
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Back on page 1 or 2 I showed how I removed the perfectly good power rack and replaced it with a new manual as economy is the name of my game. The a/c compressor is a separate belt and I think I'll leave it off until the hot days of summer - about 2.5 - 3 months in Michigan.
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I'm back at my project - the neighbor was complaining about the mess in my yard resulting from my focus on the "diesel mistress"
I decided to use a jack screw style alternator bracket. Here is the making of the curved stationary bracket that will hold the tension on the alternator. The cuts allowed me to bend it gradually:
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/102_4464.jpg)
Here are the welds filling in the cuts:
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/102_4467.jpg)
Here is what the bracket will look like welded to the alternator - a/c mounting bracket:
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/102_4466.jpg)
Here's the curved bracket welded to the assembly.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/102_4468.jpg)
Next is to make the jack screw and paint the assembly.
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Time to finish the Alternator brackets. I dug up the Chrysler alternator bracket. It looks like I can cut it down to fix my VW / Chevy bracket.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/102_4469.jpg)
On closer inspection, I decided I wanted the jack screw type because they are usually easier to adjust if you can't get both hands around the alternator to pull it tight. So, I looked for a long enough bolt in the collection with long enough threads. The only thing I have is US threads and a tad longer than I need, but I can cut off the extra later. Then I cut a piece of angle stock and drilled a 7/16 hole in it for the alternator bolt. Next I welded 2 nuts on either side of it, on the side 90 degrees from this hole. This will keep the thrust always perpendicular to the alternator bolt. They required taping after welding to clean up the threads. I might use a jam nut with nylon thread locker on the end of the bolt.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/102_4471.jpg)
FINISHED !! I have a complete alternator bracket set now !
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/102_4472.jpg)
Next is the anti-torque bracket for the front of the car. The factory one would have bolted to the bell housing where the starter bolts on, but the angled oil filter is in the way. This mount is also further to the drivers side than the alternator mounts could accommodate, so I decided I'll move this mount from the factory location to slightly to the passenger side from center line. Here's the C channel stock being cut.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/102_4470.jpg)
Here it is trimmed and welded to the assembly for the alternator & A/C compressor.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/102_4474.jpg)
Here's another view. It shows most of the forces are on the three bolts in the center of the block.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/102_4475.jpg)
Here it is all shinny and painted :-)
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/102_4476.jpg)
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Wow that looks like so much work. Right on :D
I wish I had half those tools
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Thanks Dude !! Part of my rational for painting parts and making everything as high a quality as is reasonable is all of the VW's I've had (2 diesel, 1 gasser) the engines were all going strong when the body fell apart from rust. Mostly in the driver's window / suspension support areas. This Caravan is made with mostly galvanized steel and has not seen Michigan salt until part of last year.
The tools are an investment to finish building the 2 seat experimental airplane you see hanging from the rafters in the photo with the painted bracket :-) My newly wed wife calls them my toys. She is partially correct - some guys buy electronic toys and I buy nice tools when I need to do something.
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the question now is how much to make me some brakets so I can just bolt my spare engine up???
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the question now is how much to make me some brakets so I can just bolt my spare engine up???
LOL !! I'm glad there is some humor on this cold rainy Friday !
Sometime this winter / sping, I'd like to find a 1.6 TD core to rebuild for when I wear this one out ;-)
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Yes, that is what I am doing. I am going to use my dial indicator to true them in the car rather than v-blocks. I'm not looking for speed beyond 75 mph.
I like inner CV joints on the VW better than the Chrysler version, mainly due to the way they bolt to the trans rather than slipping into the transaxel. The Chrysler wheel bearing assembly is designed for higher loads, though.
While the idea of splicing the axles is cool, there is an easier solution. The first iteration of the Dodge Omni / Plymouth Horizon had a 1.7L VW engine. This was mated to a 4-speed VW (Chrysler code A412) transaxle. The axles used were VW bolt-into-the-trans on one end, and Chrysler splined stubs on the other. These allowed the VW transaxle to work with the standard Chrysler hubs. These hubs are the same as whats on the first generation Caravan.
According to the Advance Auto web site, the 1.7L engine was an option on the Omni from 1979-1983, the axles are described as such:
Part number: 603004 "CV Half-Shaft Assembly: Remanufactured; Front; Left; With Manual Transmission (Vw-A412) Transmission; Chrysler Corporation "Sales Codes" Are Found On The "Body Code" Plate."
http://www.partsamerica.com/product_images/img/a1c/603004.jpg
Part number: 603005 "CV Half-Shaft Assembly: Remanufactured; Front; Right; With Manual Transmission (Vw-A412) Transmission; Chrysler Corporation "Sales Codes" Are Found On The "Body Code" Plate."
http://www.partsamerica.com/product_images/img/a1c/603005.jpg
Granted, these are $75.00 each, but they are new and shiney! Hope this helps someone. BTW, awesome project!
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WOW !! WOW !!!! WOW !!!!!!!
Thanks Dude !!! I had no idea about this. If the spacing to the outers with my K frame works, all the better !!
Thanks again !!!
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WOW !! WOW !!!! WOW !!!!!!!
Thanks Dude !!! I had no idea about this. If the spacing to the outers with my K frame works, all the better !!
Thanks again !!!
Hey my pleasure, I hope it helps. Be sure to double check my assumptions about the axles. It might be that the Caravan had axles that were slightly different (longer) from the Omni. I figured in the very least it might get you looking at the Chrysler parts for ideas.
Also, the previously mentioned Dodge Omni / Plymouth Horizon used a hybrid motor mount setup. The Chrysler-side bolts to the car, and of course the VW-side to the engine. So I'd assume if you can find the part number to these mounts you would be in business.
The mounts will be harder to find then the axles. The mount "inserts" can be found at an auto parts store, for example:
"Engine Mount: Front; 1 Required Per Vehicle", PN 2733.
http://www.partsamerica.com/product_images/img/anh/2733.jpg
Or the insert and the mount together:
"Engine Mount: Front Right; 1 Required Per Vehicle", PN 2600.
http://www.partsamerica.com/product_images/img/anh/2600.jpg
"Engine Mount: Front (Insert For 2733); 1 Required Per Vehicle", PN 2447
http://www.partsamerica.com/product_images/img/anh/2447.jpg
Transaxle mount:
"Manual Transmission Mount: Trans (Insert For 2734); 1 Required Per Vehicle", PN 2721.
What I'm not sure is whether the Chrysler-side of the engine mounts are standard Chryser Omni|Horizon|K-car|Caravan issue, or if they're specific to the 1.7L application. Keep up the good work!
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OK, minor problem if I want to know how many miles I've driven and my MPG (GPS will give me speed) - The caravan trans speedo sending unit is of a different size than the mechanical VW connection...
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/102_4485.jpg)
So, I need to get a VW cluster with mechanical drive. I have a NEW extra vac pump I'd like to trade with someone for a VW cluster - Speedo and Tach. Any one interested ?
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/103_4174.jpg)
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OK, maybe I should keep the new Vac pump for when I wear out this one ;-)
Tonight I fab'd the linkage brackets for the shifter. Here is the bracket Chrysler used. It is a very good starting place - I almost fell to the siren call of making all from scratch :-P
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/102_4486.jpg)
I cut them apart and used the differential screws for one of the existing holes. I drilled a second and the cable for pulling and pushing the shifter was actually the right size. It needed a travel of 3 5/8" to 4 3/4" - not much for the side to side motion of the shifter in the H pattern. The other bracket for selecting up neutral or down on the shifter had a 5" to 8" max travel. This translates to twisting the shifter on the VW trans. The VW linkage had a travel of slightly less than that. Again, I almost made my own !! Instead, I drilled a 1/4"-20 hole about 7/8" down the linkage for the correct travel. I used a S.S. bolt with locking nut. The Chrysler linkage cable end goes over this nicely. Maybe for this one I will need a collar to prevent wear.
The push - pull ball I drilled out from the bottom for the 1/4"-20 bolt. As you can see, this should work out nicely.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/102_4487.jpg)
I found a 2" flexible S.S. joint at Autozone for $24. When I asked about the warranty, I could not help but laugh when he said Life Time. They did not ask for the car, so I'm sure I will get my money's worth :-)
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/102_4488.jpg)
Next will be running the new fuel line - I think I'll only run new supply line. After than is hanging the modified tank.
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While the idea of splicing the axles is cool, there is an easier solution. The first iteration of the Dodge Omni / Plymouth Horizon had a 1.7L VW engine. This was mated to a 4-speed VW (Chrysler code A412) transaxle. The axles used were VW bolt-into-the-trans on one end, and Chrysler splined stubs on the other. These allowed the VW transaxle to work with the standard Chrysler hubs. These hubs are the same as whats on the first generation Caravan.
Very good information. When the ones I spice are worn out, I'll buy these new ones. I'm certain I'll still have to splice as the First gen K car Omni has a max (rear ?) track of 1.425 m vs. my Second generation K car - Caravan's front track of 1.521 m - that's a difference of at least 3.7 inches. At best I move the engine to one side and add the 3.7" to the driver's side, which would improve the CV speeds a little.
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I started the plumbing of the turbo fresh air side last night... I have to cut the aluminum tubes next and will replace the black rubber at some point, but I have the hoses clamped to the turbo. The suction side will be cut short as I think it could collapse if I use a long run of the 2" hose.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/102_4497.jpg)
I also got my gas cap changed to a "diesel" cap. I had a new one with a cam style. My filler tube is the current style of the screw in type. I saw the caps were compatible other than this part, so I took them apart and switched the outer most part. Now I have the modern type that will not allow you to over tighten it.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/102_4492.jpg)
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/102_4493.jpg)[/list]
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Jeebus, that's a lot of work for a Caravan. :shock:
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Jeebus, that's a lot of work for a Caravan. :shock:
LOL ! That's why my wife calls it my mistress. But, with a rust free body and a very comfortable ride - you sit a lot higher than in a VW, I think its worth it to do it right so I can drive it for many many years. Besides, phase 2 will be to get an AWD rear end from another Caravan and put an Advanced DC 9.1" series wound motor on it for hybrid drive. Wish I had the money to do it the year as the tax credit expires this year.
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Jeebus, that's a lot of work for a Caravan. :shock:
I'm more into the vanagons. Bolt-in TD. Only significant difference being rear wheel drive. But still, I had a Caravan 9 years ago and thought it was great, and it's only work if it's not fun. Great project and thanks for sharing it with us.
Andrew
Thanks !! It is a real passion working on my own diesel again. Part of it is having something no one in the US has. Also, it really yacks me that the world record holder for a production car with a standard tank going the furthest (1077 miles) is a Chrysler Town & Country diesel, but they will not sell it here. So, I get an even better version as it will be VW powered.
If I had the money, I would get a Vanagon Syncro and do the 1.9 TD for it !!
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Started to fab the intake system last night. I had bought a K & N wet filter to use. Yes, it was designed for a truck with 4 - 5 times the displacement, but I want my turbo to breath easy and I liked the low profile of the filter for its size.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/102_4499.jpg)
I cut some of the 2" ID aluminum tube that will be most of the intake to the turbo. I need to make a reducer from the 3.5" ID the filter has. I saw some nice silicone reducers on siliconeintakes.com that zukgod1 posted, but I don't want to wait !! I had to use a pipe expander to get them formed close to that I need.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/102_4500.jpg)
But it was not going to happen tonight. I have a really nice Miller auto welding helmet, but it has not seen the light of day in so long the internal battery that is only charged by the solar cells was flat. No welding for me last night. So, I start to make the new fuel supply line out of 5/16" coated brake line. I sealed the joins with Seal-All as it is fuel and oil proof. I know it is not required, but I don't want a vac leak years from now.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/102_4502.jpg)
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/102_4501.jpg)
The helmet is currently on the Kitchen table soaking up the rays !
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Today was fuel systems day.. Here is the stock supply, vent, and return side:
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/102_4508.jpg)
I ran new supply side lines of sealed 5/16" coated lines, here you see the aluminum foiled protected line..
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/102_4513.jpg)
One of the strange things I completely disagree with the Chrysler engineer with is the tank filling tube seal. It is a rubber grommet that has no compression other than that of the fill tube that is rammed into it.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/102_4511.jpg)
Here you can see the vapor and return lines. Notice the vapor lines are capped. The EPA would freak is this was a gasser. More on this later...
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/102_4512.jpg)
Next is the very out dated Leaded fuel blocking port. Now, tell me, how long do the gasser people need to pay for this feature ? It has been illegal to sell leaded gas in the USA for decades.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/102_4514.jpg)
Here is the free flow of fuel oil thanks to a sharp wood chisel...
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/102_4515.jpg)
Next was the EPA anti top-off ball. This had to go...
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/102_4517.jpg)
fuel oil does not evap like gasoline, and it can foam much more, so it had to go !!!
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/102_4518.jpg)
Lastly, since the vapor recovery system is of no value in a fuel oil system, I need a way for the air to fill the void from the used fuel oil... the stock cap is air tight, must go..
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/102_4519.jpg)
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Last night we dropped the engine in the caravan, at least we tried to :-(
First my 12 yr old son and I finished the fuel system. The tank needed its filler tube installed and the sending unit wires connected. We did that and installed the Green fuel cap.
Next, we raised the engine / trans package... It all looked very good.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/102_4522.jpg)
next we rolled the glider under the engine and started to lower it in.. all was good.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/102_4532.jpg)
The passenger side engine mount came into contact with its base first.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/102_4526.jpg)
Unfortunately, the trans mount still had several inches more to drop. It has good alignment otherwise.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/102_4528.jpg)
What appears to have happened was I fabricated the engine mount to the deck of the side rails in the engine bay, and the engine mount rests on several inch high stand-offs that are on top of the side rails.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/102_4531.jpg)
We pulled the engine back out. Over the next couple of days, I'll cut off the engine mount where it is welded / bolted to the 4" C channel I welded to the stock VW engine mount. I am thinking of using 2 flat steel plates with many holes predrilled so they can be position in many spots up and down, front to rear.
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Wow, I see I need to change that turbo drain too.
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I need to change the position of the passenger side engine mount. Here is a close up of what I had:
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/102_4534.jpg)
I cut the mount with the sawsall. The paper towel is to keep shavings from getting into the timing belt system.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/102_4535.jpg)
I decided to have 2 flat plates with multiple locations for the bolts so it can be positioned in the best location for the CV joints and exhaust.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/102_4536.jpg)
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Tonight the plate will get welded on and the plate for the opposite side will get made. With luck, the engine will be hanging in the car this weekend.
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If the world economy completely collapses and we are thrust into a global apocalypse, I want you in my tribe :lol: .
(http://www.gamerevolution.com/images/misc/Image/mad_max.jpg)
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If the world economy completely collapses and we are thrust into a global apocalypse, I want you in my tribe :lol: .
How did you know this diesel project is a momentary departure from my 2 seat experimental aircraft project ? :-)
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I am still serious...when will you be fabbing up some peices so I can put my spare 1.6 in a caravan?
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Ah !!! I thought you were teasing me... I could see that making the brackets after I have it installed would be much easier than when I made the first ones. So, after our Bambi season :-)
I have a much easier approach in mind for splicing the axel shafts. I don't have a lathe, so I have been fretting about the splice as I wanted to turn a solid shaft to go into the 2 hollow half shafts on the passenger side, and bore a tube for the solid shafts on the driver's side. The VW and Chrysler solid and hollow tubes are close in diameter, but not close enough. On the order of 0.050" or so.
Now, there's what I have come up with, very precision but no lathe... I cut all the half shafts to their max length, so the VW's got cut near the CV joint for the wheel bearing, and the Chrysler's got cut near the trans CV giving me almost 2/3 more shaft than I need. If I switch just the trans side shafts, I'll have telescoping shafts on both sides !! Now for the trick. After polishing the end of the solid, I'll rap it with a layer or 2 of sheet metal until the solid is a smooth fit into the hollow shaft. A second set of these bands, or shims will be made for the mid point in the solid shaft. This will eliminate most of the run-out. I will still use my dial indicator when I weld them together to be sure the run-out is zeroed as best as possible - a few tack welds followed my a few aligning hammer blows before solid welding.
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Engine mount 2.0 :-)
At closer inspection, my cut for the mount was not parallel to the engine.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/102_4541.jpg)
So I turned the bracket to be.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/102_4542.jpg)(http://)
I decided to add a little more streingth to the mount as there will be a little bit of torque now that the support will be offset from the center of the VW mount.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/102_4543.jpg)
This bolts to the boss on the back of the block.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/102_4545.jpg)
Lastly I made a multi mounting point plate of 1/4" high strength steel.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/102_4547.jpg)
Today the engine should be in the car... I've said that before but this time it should be able to stay in the car.
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Yesterday I finished the right and left engine mounts, after setting up my propane hunting heater - we got snow here for the first time last night. Here is the right side bolted with 3 bolts. If I'm happy with the location this time, I'll fill the other holes with bolts. They have nylon locking nuts on the back side.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/102_4551.jpg)
Here is the left side mount. I decided to move it down an inch and rearward and inch. This was very easy by cutting an angle cut to the bottom and drilling another hole. Also notice how the mount had a few degrees of twist before I rotated it. Now it is squared correctly.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/102_4548.jpg)
Here it is with the trim piece. The nice thing is looking at the cut, my weld has uniform penetration. You can't see the separation point of the 2 pieces. It was quick and easy.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/102_4550.jpg)
The other thing I did was change my turbo drain a bit. I found some solid brass fittings with ribs at Home Depot. Qestpak makes them. 5 "T" for $7.68. The elbows are a little less. My pan is not a turbo so I'll wait for my next build to do the full Monty. I need to be driving this before hunting season if I want to be in the North woods.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/102_4549.jpg)
If my wife is up to helping me push the chassis tonight, the engine will be in tonight. If not, I'll plumb all the coolant lines tonight and shoot for the engine drop tomorrow night.
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wheres the drain going?I had to enlarge my drain quite a bit.It wasnt able to "free"flow so it started backing up and out the seals
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wheres the drain going?I had to enlarge my drain quite a bit.It wasnt able to "free"flow so it started backing up and out the seals
The drain is a 5/8" ID hose that follows the bell housing to the Vac pump port on the front of the block. Its just below the turbo bearings so there shouldn't be any back pressure.
Last night was not the best of times. We did put the engine in the car,
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/102_4552.jpg)
but I was suffering from Mirroritis or dyslexia because when I cut the trans mount, I moved the mount in the opposite direction I need.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/102_4555.jpg)
On the plus side, the passenger side mount looks good.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/102_4558.jpg)
On the very down side, the "K" frame, that is the reason this is a "K" car, is not in a friendly place for the down tube on the turbo. It looks like I need to pull it off and clock it about 70 degrees so it is pointed rearward between the K member and the firewall.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/102_4556.jpg)
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Last night I did something I should have done from the beginning. I don't know why I didn't do this basic step before. I made a template of both sides of the engine bay out of cardboard so the mounts would be dead on from the get go.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/102_4559.jpg)
I decided the left mount would be easy if I made it adjustable like the right mount. Here I'm cutting off the lower plate:
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/102_4561.jpg)
Here they are separated. I'll drill a matrix on some 1/4" plate steel that will bolt to the trans. The upper half of the mount will have several holes on the flat surface to bolt to some of these in the matrix.
Here is the S.S. down pipe I need to clock about 70 degrees. I will only need to weld a little bit of material and drill a few holes.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/102_4562.jpg)
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You are very ambitious........good job. :D
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THANKS !!! Its a lot of fun !!!
Last night I remade the trans mount. It is very adjustable...
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4564.jpg)
Nice coat of rustoleum paint :-) After I blasted it with old school brake cleaner - trichloroethylene - its a very good degreaser, just don't breath it or get it on your skin.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4566.jpg)
I bevel ground the edges of the down pipe flange where I need to add 1/2" of plate steel.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4565.jpg)
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This is the first year since I worked at the Nation's first University Hospital that I have not gotten a flu shot.
First year since then I have gotten the flu. Maybe a little Nighquil and I can do a little welding :-)
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This is the first year since I worked at the Nation's first University Hospital that I have not gotten a flu shot.
First year since then I have gotten the flu. Maybe a little Nighquil and I can do a little welding :-)
ooo man that sucks!! nothing worse then being stuck home sick when your project is out there begging you to work on it!!
get well soon 8)
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Yeah Man !!! Don't you know it. But, my lovely wife and I had a date with reality of diesels - my friend is the mechanic for a set of BIG diesels - a V-12 and V-16 - both from Detroit in the golden age of diesels and both 2 stroke slow turning beasts. It was the Michigan Star Clipper dinner train. The main engine, or as locomotive as they call it, is a 1953 Detroit electric locomotive. It has 1,500 shp at 800 rpm. Yes, slower than we idle. It idles at 5 gph at 256 rpm. Yes, that slow. I was taking these photos inside the engine bay an it was quite - more so than near out engine at idle. Unbelievable. I even got the turn at the controls ! WOW !!!! Here's some photos of the event... mind you, if you live near SE Michigan, the end of an era is a few months away as the tree huggers have offered the owner more for his line as a bike path than it is worth to his company .. http://www.rail-road.com
My photos - the diesel photos are mostly at the bottom: http://arb.net/dave/dinner.train.htm
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The flu is almost gone, so I got a little time in, with my hunting heater helping defrost the cold steel a bit.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4571.jpg)
The trans mound it on the assembly now.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4564.jpg)
I cut a rail to extend the right side engine mount rearward by a few inches just in case..
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4573.jpg)
I started to weld the extra 12mm I need on 2 sides of the corner of the down pipe flange so I can clock the down pipe.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4570.jpg)
I had to stop welding because my fancy Miller helmet with auto darkening stopped working !! It had been inside for too long without seeing the sun. The cold freeze likely also pushed it over the edge. Yesterday I put in out in the direct sun for a few hours, and now it works.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4576.jpg)
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The sun was kind to my auto-helmet and I was able to finish the welding to the down pipe flange so I could finish clocking it 70 degrees.
Here is a of the 2 pieces I welded on.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/000_0035.jpg)
Here's the second piece welded on. Notice I also added a little bit of metal to the inside curve of the flange.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4581.jpg)
Here is the polished flange, ready to drill.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4582.jpg)
Minor clearance problem with the stress collar I made around the pipe to carry loads to the flange. Now that it is clocked, one of the bolts in squarely under the collar.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4584.jpg)
I drilled the lower half of the collar in the drill press and used a die grander with a 1/2" round bit to finish the contouring of the clearance for the bolt. I was so excited about being almost done, I didn't take a photo. here is the down pipe flange ready for ceramic paint with flex joint attached. Tonight we will put the engine in the car for the 3rd and I hope final time.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4585.jpg)
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If the world economy completely collapses and we are thrust into a global apocalypse, I want you in my tribe :lol: .
(http://www.gamerevolution.com/images/misc/Image/mad_max.jpg)
I presently have 3 gyrocopters like this, if you're interested. 8)
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Sweet ! 1600 cc VW's ? I wounder what I need to add it to my Private SEL license so I could count the time? How much do they go for ?
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Sweet ! 1600 cc VW's ? I wounder what I need to add it to my Private SEL license so I could count the time? How much do they go for ?
One has an original mcCullogh 2-stroke 4 cylinder at 65 horsepower. The other two have Subaru EA82s. They are considered an ultralight, so no license is needed and they go for around $6000 with a good set of rotors.
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It was cold, snowing, and windy when I got home. My very skinny wife was not too excited about pushing a van in the snow to drop an engine in. Today it is bright and sunny, so the wait is better.
So, I thought I would attach the down pipe to the turbo. I wanted to use the very high temp silicone RTV. It was almost frozen, so I heated it and the paint on my trusty hunting heater.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4587.jpg)
Before I closed the turbo, I thought I would share my experience with a "new" $299 turbo I bought from one of the guys here who's business it is for cheep parts for VW diesels. I did not see the "open letter" to him until it was already closed, so I did not chime in there. The both the box nor web site shows where the turbo was made. I though it was Law in American so label the country of manufacture. Humm. Notice the end of my exhaust turbine. They balanced it by grinding much of the nut and shaft. Not good. When I bought it last year, I was under-employed and collecting unemployment insurance most of the time, so I could not have spend much more than that for it... I hope I can get a few years out if it.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4594.jpg)
I test fit the flange to the turbo - see the problem now ?
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4588.jpg)
A few of the holes were not quite large enough, but there is a much larger problem !! See it?
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4590.jpg)
The waste gate arm now would hit the flange as the clocking did not take this into account. I need to grind that way and make enlarge a couple holes. This created a stress riser and I did not want to re-lap the plate, so I de-burred them. Here is the stress raiser.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4593.jpg)
All mounted !!! I blasted the grinding with some more ceramic paint after I mounted it. Its ready to drop in now. Glad I did this out of the car. I would not have noticed the waste gate arm problem. Also, inside the housing the down pipe the waste gate is restricted a little. It will only swing about 30 - 40 degrees now before it comes into contact with the plate. With a boost gauge and the BOV I'm not too worried about over boost or over speeding the turbo. I did this turbo for an Eco-Diesel, not for high HP.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4596.jpg)
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Humm. Notice the end of my exhaust turbine. They balanced it by grinding much of the nut and shaft. Not good.
Wow... :shock:
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(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4594.jpg)
Now *that* is some of the best evidence of "if it seems too good to be true it just might be" pricing that I've seen in a while... thanks for posting !!
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Yeah, I really wished I had seen the "Who is this Prothe fellow? " post as I did not know about the quality issue. But, it is water under the bridge.
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That looks like pretty crude balancing but at least it's balanced I guess.
I still don't think I would hesitate to buy one from him if I was in a bind and needed a turbo ASAP.
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That's why I didn't send it back. I could not find a "new" turbo for $300. I had bought a used turbo & manifold first from a guy in Texas. The turbo was carbon fowled even though he claimed it was in good condition. He would not take it back, so I craigslisted it as a core to cut my losses.
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WOW !! The engine is in !! I had the pleasure to shift through the gears and actuate the clutch last night just before I hit the hay ! Here's how I got there:
First obstacle, I woke up Saturday to see my pontoon boat frozen in the lake ! I was counting on the forecast of upper 30's here all this week. We had this, but the over night lows were quite cold. I tried to use the 9,000 # winch on the front of my Rubicon. But, the motor was locked up. Beware the Harbor Freight crap from China.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4615.jpg)
The motor has permanent magnets and an interesting commutator design.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4614.jpg)
We used a long chain and the cable from the winch, and backed the Jeep up in the 4:1 low with the front and rear air lockers spooled.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/IMGP0409.jpg)
OK, now we could drop the engine in :-) First thing, the down pipe appeared to be in the wrong location AGAIN !! At closer inspection, the engine was tilted back about 15 degrees because of the location of my support chain. We released all the weight from the hoist, but it did not swing back enough.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4598.jpg)
So, we lifted it and I added another tab to the right side mount so the engine could be tilted level.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4599.jpg)
Back down again.. I has lucky to have my friend Christian help me. He retired in France as a diesel mechanic for Caterpillar. Now he works part time as the diesel mechanic for the dinner train.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4604.jpg)
ITS IN !!!
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4605.jpg)
Notice there is a slight difference in the front to back alignment on both sides ? We accepted this as when we had it perfect, the shifter cable that moves in in-out would be directly in the center of the steering shaft, or the down pipe would be in contact with the firewall, or there would be no room in front of the engine for the alternator.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4606.jpg)
Slipping the flex joint on, we saw we are in good shape now.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4607.jpg)
Now to start hooking everything up. First the shift linkage. The one that moves the shifter in-out was first. It had to be routed around the steering shaft.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4608.jpg)
Next I tried to put the shift cable on that rotates the shifter, but the Chrysler has them opposite each other - one has a larger diameter end, so it has a slotted mount, the other was not.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4610.jpg)
I used a 3" cut-off wheel to make the slot, then mounted the shifter. It shifts very smoothly, but I have what appears to me a 4 speed with the 1st gear missing. I looked under the trans, and its a FF 10030 trans. Humm, it is a 5 speed OD with a final drive of 3.89:1 and a 0.76 OD gear. Maybe its sticking because the engine is not spinning. I'll need to dump the fluid and put the Mobil 1 full synthetic 80w90 gear lube in.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4611.jpg)
Now for the clutch. The VW and Chrysler are almost the same. I just had to cut off the rubber tab on the side of the Chrysler, and clean the aluminum hole it fits through.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4612.jpg)
Here's my clutch lever compression tool. Worked great.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4616.jpg)
Now I have a great feeling clutch. Much better than the Chrysler. Here's some of the junk I get to remove - the ECM for the gasser injection system. Ebay time :-)
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4613.jpg)
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I had to cut my block last night !!! I lifted the car to inspect the drive shaft clearances. Driver side looked perfect :
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4618.jpg) The tie rod end was tight -
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4619.jpg)
But the brakes looked toasted. No problem as I bought new 15" wheel hubs for the front and I will need new brakes as they are a different size.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4620.jpg)
Passenger side quite another story... the tab at the bottom of the block in interfering with the shaft.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4623.jpg)
I thought of moving the engine forward an inch, but it would mean cutting the sheet metal in front of the engine for clearance of the alternator, and the down pipe would no longer be in the correct location. I'm not taking the engine out again if there is any other way.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4624.jpg)
The tab has a 5/8" hole in it. What's it for ? The manufacturing process ? OK, its got to go. I love this cut off wheel.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4626.jpg)
The passenger tie rod was not tight and the rack & pinion boot was not secure. Had to fix this.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4628.jpg)
Here's the cut off tab - lots of room now.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4629.jpg)
See ?
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4630.jpg)
Now to the drive shafts. I had to clean off the bench and put every tool back in the box. It gets to be a disaster at some point when you spend more time looking for a tool than using it. See how I am going to telescope them ? A small sleeve at 2 spots on the shafts will keep them centered while I weld them.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4635.jpg)
Here's the other side.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4636.jpg)
Quick diversion to fix the winch. I've never used it to recover my Jeep, but with the snow here now, I'm sure I'll need it if its not working. A little 600 grit wet paper and green scotch bright worked great.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4637.jpg)
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Tonight was axel shaft night... after all, I told my wife I would not go hunting until the diesel was mobil. :-) I want bambi !!!
Here is my triming of the shaft to the correct size for the drivers side.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4638.jpg)
Next I measured the difference in the ID and ID - 1/4" !! Can you immagine ? My welding rods are 1/8" so I chose to wrap the shaft.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4639.jpg)
Very close fit ready to weld after I check the run-out with the dial indicator.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4642.jpg)
Now I measure the passenger side. Only 1/4" total gap. I used all of my normal 1/16" rod - the normal size, so I'm SOL... I need to find another way.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4643.jpg)
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If you didn't already why not put in a block heater? I always love having one even if it isn't needed it is nice to have a warm vehicle.
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If you didn't already why not put in a block heater? I always love having one even if it isn't needed it is nice to have a warm vehicle.
Hey, thanks for reminding me of the wire !!! I am lucky this has a block heater, but the wire is on my bench. I also have an extra percolator (coffee pot style) block heater, but one is enough.
AND HAPPY THANKS GIVING !!!
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Spent a few hours Friday and Sunday trying to find 1/16" rod, but none was to be had... My welding supply shops here were closed from Wednesday until today.
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Got a little closer last night now that I have my welding rod back in stock.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4644.jpg)
Here is the dry fit of the second shaft.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4645.jpg)
First I welded the rod to the end, just like the first shaft, but with 1/16" rod. The weld was a little messy as I did not clean it well.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4648.jpg)
Here the rod is rapped around the shaft to act as a uniform shim of the correct thickness so when they are telescoped before welding solid, it will be perfectly centered.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4649.jpg)
Here the second rod is welded on near where the joint will be when they are joined.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4650.jpg)
Here's the second rap before cleaning.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4651.jpg)
Now I need to clean up the welds as when I tried to telescope them, it was a little too tight.
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The final hurtles have been passed. Tomorrow, my half shafts will be fitted to the vehicle. Here are the photos of the final shaft being fitted...
This is my Chrysler shaft almost fitting into the VW shaft.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4653.jpg)
Next I sanded it a little bit so it would fit
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4654.jpg)
This allowed it to fit, so I painted it with anti-rust paint and had to heat the parts so the Michigan winter did not prevent the drying.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4656.jpg)
Here the two half shafts are telescoped ready to be fitted to the car and spot welded and trued with my dial-indicator prior to final welding. I tested the movement of the two shafts, and they are solid. So, tomorrow in the car if there is some run-out more than 0.005" then it will take some serious hammer blows to align the shafts.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4661.jpg)
In the background you can see the various parts for my super duper glow plug setup... I worked on this a little while the paint was drying.
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I reach a major milestone last night in the frozen winter... The only part of the conversion I had concerns about was the drive shafts because the inter and outer ends were from 2 different cars and I do not yet have a lathe. Here's what I was faced with when I stepped outside yesterday"
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4662.jpg)
After digging it out want getting the front half into my crowded garage, I took a final look at the engine layout. Once the shafts are welded, that is that. The question was, could I move the passenger engine mount forward and inch ?
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4663.jpg)
Nope, I see for certain that will move the in/out gear shifter cable into contact with the steering column. OK, on to welding.
I followed the advice of 914turboford and used a dial indicator to get the run-out as close to zero as possible. It was 0.039" and would not budge with many blows from my 2 pound hammer. The 2 shafts are very tightly telescoped. If I get vibration, I'll remove it and have a pro shop spin balance it.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4665.jpg)
I decided to TIG weld them for max strength.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4668.jpg)
Here is the passenger side after welding and paint. It was harder to weld as I had to be laying on my side to weld it, and it is too close to the boot to be welded all at once. I could only weld about 1/2" at a time, and that was with a wet towel rapped around the shaft at the boot - with the boot compressed as much as possible.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4669.jpg)
Passenger side with paint - Job done !!
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4673.jpg)
The real up shot is I now no longer need a 2x4 under the wheels to keep it from rolling into my garage door !! Next, the anti-torq engine mount completion.
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Yeah, I didn't hit them more than a couple of times. 914 turbo said that's how he did his. Time will tell now. They feel smooth and the driver's side I didn't touch a hammer to.
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Yeah, I'm glad you did... since I found no change in wacking it, I wish I had not...
I already have new wheel hub assemblies because I want to switch to the 15" aluminum rims I have from the stock 14" steel on it now. They have a different bolt pattern.
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Freezing rain here the past two days, so not so much progress. I started the instrument layout. I'm thinking temporary location will be on top of the dash something like this:
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4676.jpg)
An aluminum face plate and cover. The switches for the super GP system, the lights showing GP power, IP fuel solenoid, etc will be about the smaller gauges.
Here more the layout I'm thinking until I find a VW speedo to replace the in-dash instrument cluster.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4682.jpg)
I also am thinking about changing my anti-torque mounting location. I'm thinking it is too many foot pounds for the mount I integrated with the alternator bracket. So, maybe several bars connected to the bell housing and this alternator bracket.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4680.jpg)
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4681.jpg)
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4679.jpg)
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4678.jpg)
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Last night I started to fabricate the instrument cluster housing. I'm using 1/2" Styrofoam to form a male mold. I'll put 3 - 4 layers of fiberglass boat cloth and epoxy resin from my experimental aircraft project. This will give me a quick and more shapely housing than sheet aluminum. When the matrix is cured with the aid of a blow-dryer under a bag, I'll use gas or carb cleaner to dissolve the foam.
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Where's your EGT gauge?
Andrew
Thanks Andrew - I have not ordered it from Aircraft Spruce yet as I work at one of the big 3 - but, I certainly should mold a spot for it. The manifold has the tapped hole waiting for it - plugged at the moment. I want the EGT next to the boost gauge.
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Lazy rainy weekend here. I am ready to spread resin on my instrument pod tonight. The frozen resin pump is in the house thawing out. http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cmpages/epoxypump.php The male plug is ready with about 5 layers of glass for the front and 2 - 3 on the sides. Here are the pics:
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4684.jpg)
This is the frame work. Cheap (free) polystyrene that will dissolve with gasoline when the epoxy is cured.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4685.jpg)
Up to this point I used hot glue to keep the frame, but it melts too much of the foam.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4686.jpg)
Starting to take shape.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4688.jpg)
Now I used 5 minute epoxy gel to hold the pieces. The Stanly surform works great at shaping, but make a lot of mess with statically charged white balls. I can't believe my wife didn't freak as I did this at the dining room table.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4689.jpg)
Finished mold.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4690.jpg)
Glass ready to bond.
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I mixed epoxy last night at the dinning room table !! Wow, my wife is one in a million. But, I'm getting ahead of the story. I decided to use the rule - measure twice, cut once. So I dry fit the cluster housing in the car. Remember, its "temporary" until its hot out and I can redo the full cluster.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4693.jpg)
Here is my resin pump I was given. I think the epoxy has been in the tubs for more than 10 years as my buddy finished his plane at least that long ago. I was afraid it would not cure as the hardener - the dark colored stuff was like honey in a refrigerator and even had granules in it from freezing in the past. The pump would not move this stuff, so I got some wax free paper cups to scoop the stuff out and measure in 44:100 ratio.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4695.jpg)
Here is the first layup. Man, did it smell.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4696.jpg)
Almost done.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4698.jpg)
When I finished I removed my gloves and blasted it with a blow dryer to get it hot so the polymerization could start. Then I covered it with a plastic bag so the smell would be less. It was quite warm to the touch. Good news. And, when I woke up to the winter storm this morning, it was fully cured and hard as a rock.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4701.jpg)
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Acetone dissolves polystyrene faster than gas and IMHO is a bit less offensive to work with. If you are working with epoxy you probably have acetone anyway?
The other thing is that if epoxy has crystalized warm it up in a hot water bath, stir a bit and it should all dissolve out. Those pumps are sold by West Systems but actually made by a different company (forget the name but I got mine direct from them). You can buy re-build kits for all the o-rings, pistons etc quite cheaply.
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Acetone dissolves polystyrene faster than gas and IMHO is a bit less offensive to work with. If you are working with epoxy you probably have acetone anyway?
Thanks for the heads up. Yes, I have at least a gallon of it and my wife and I were talking about that very thing last night. She was concerned the gas would leave a smell in the car. I said I'd try acetone but I did not know if it would dissolve the polystyrene.
Good to hear it will !! THANKS !
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Working slow in the snow these days... The instrument cluster was easy to trim on the bench belt sander...
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4702.jpg)
I tried some Rustolenu Hammer-Tone paint to hide some of the rough surfaces. I used it in the garage at 20 degrees even though the can says 50 degrees minimum. I started with the face, using a very heavy coat and allowing it to dry over night pointing up.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4706.jpg)
The next day I painted the top and back sides.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4709.jpg)
Not perfect, but this is only for temporary use.
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If you felt like it, you could use body filler and then sand it down to get rid of any imperfections.
Yeah, I certainly thought about it... but I want to start driving it more than I want the temporary part to look great. It does not look too bad now, just rugged ;-)
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Your wife truly is one in a million...I'd have been served with papers if I tried that :D
Looks good so far!
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arb--
Just stumbled across this thread and wanted to chime in--you're NUTS. It's great to watch you work through the thing, though. Can't wait to see it finished.
Luke
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Thanks Luke !! Lots of people say I'm crazy ;-) After Chrstmas is over, I'll be able to finish it. I had to take a break last weekend and Monday / Tuesday to get all of my assignments in for the end of the college semester. I fully expect to be text driving it next week some time.
-dave
PS - Merry Christmas !
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Going to take your welded axles to be rebalanced at some point?
Cool design, I've liked watching your process. :D
Merry Christmas to you too, you nut. :p
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Going to take your welded axles to be rebalanced at some point?
Cool design, I've liked watching your process. :D
Merry Christmas to you too, you nut. :p
I wasn't planning on removing them for balancing unless they have a viboration. I will invest in balanced shafts whem I wear these out as they are all used and I don't know how much time is left on them.
Thanks for the support !! Merry Christmas and Happy New year !!
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Happy New Year !!
Parties are over, time to make smoke... I worked on the instrument pod some the past few days. I tried finger nail polish remover to dissolve the Styrofoam. Its main ingredient was acetone, but there must have been too much other crap in it was it did not dissolve it quickly. As you can see, part of it started to slowly dissolve, the the other part did not.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4710.jpg)
So I tried Goof Off - main ingredient - Xylene. Works quickly and efficiently. I then wiped the styrene goo out with paper towels and used the finger nail polish remover to remove the sticky residue from the styrene goo. Worked great at this level.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4714.jpg)
So, I was ready to drill the holes for the instruments, status lights for the GP, aux fuel pump - for priming if needed after filter change, etc. and the various toggle switches.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4718.jpg)
But I suffered a catastrophic set back today. My handy Craftsman 18v drill/driver I use for punching holes fell from the bench onto the chuck, breaking off one of the three flutes. I removed the screw holding the key-less chuck on, but worked for 2 hours to remove it from the 1/2" HD drill. No luck. I got out my 1/2" hammer drill (works in drill only mode) to finish tonight, but wanted to post this for now... Man was I pissed. I have used and abused the 18v tool for almost 10 years !!! :-D Might just be time for a new one - too bad they keep changing the battery connections.
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Did some wiring and plumbing for the instruments. Here's what I did tonight.
The blank 2" hole is for the EGT from aircraft spruce. The blue toggle is for the boost fuel pump. The green light next to it is for the IP fuel solenoid. The black toggle on the other side is a momentary contact for the GP. The red light next to it is to show direct GP power feeding back from them. The red toggle next to it (lighted) sends power to the momentary contact toggle. Paranoid, yes about GPs.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4719.jpg)
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Wow nice work!
We're all paranoid about GPs man.
I broke the threaded part (that the little nut goes on) off of a basically new GP today. I was piiiisssedd
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Is the van running yet?I cant wait.
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We're back to work now... for now... The ups and downs of the Big Three.
This past weekend I finished the wiring harness and instrument sensing lines. This photo shows the bundle ready to snake through the dash into the engine bay.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4721.jpg)
Here is the GP relay and feed fuses. They will connect to the battery directly. I have not decided if the relay it self will be in the engine bay or under the dash. I have wired each GP separately and tested each one. They will connect to the factory relay - manually controlled. I only wanted the amp rating of this relay.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4723.jpg)
Next will be to install them on the van !
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I needed to cut a couple of 3/4" x 3/4" x 4" blocks of pine so I would have a vibration proof mounting point for the pod to screw to the dash. I used epoxy jell to bond it to the inside of the pod. It I had simply screwed through the sides without the blocks, it would have worn larger holes from the road vibration.
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Slow weekend. My 94 year old Grandma died, so we were busy with funeral stuff.
Here are the blocks I wood I spoke of for mounting to the dash.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4725.jpg)
Other side was not as good, but the epoxy Gel worked great.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4726.jpg)
Next I needed my coreless drill / driver to punch the hole in the fire wall and the dash, but I dropped it on the garage floor. Luck would have it one of the three jaws of the chuck broke off. I thought I would take the 3/8" chuck off another lower powered driver I can't find the charger for after our move... but as you can see, its a different size. More work to follow tonight. Maybe I used the old corded monster.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4728.jpg)
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Last night after work, after clearing more snow from the car, I installed the instruments !! Now all the final work will be under the hood !!
First, using my 25 year old corded drill, I punched through the firewall.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4729.jpg)
From inside
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4730.jpg)
Snaking the cable and hose bundle through dash at night required my wife to help by pulling gently from the engine side. The down side of these old school mechanical instruments is the capillary line for the temp can easily be damaged. In high school, a friend had a 67' Camaro RS. He was not a careful mechanic and at one point we were driving and coolant started to come back through this line into the car. Exciting.
Here's the final look.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4732.jpg)
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So much for Global Warming - It was 5 degrees last night ( -15 C) when I tried to connect the insturments to the engine. But, any progress is good progress.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4733.jpg)
If you would like to see another side of the Al Gore "An Inconvenient Truth" there was an interesting "Story" about it on the Russian news site Pravda. (My lovely new wife speaks Russian) It was interesting for me to learn "Pravda" in Russian means "Truth" - LOL !!! I thought it meant Propaganda. http://english.pravda.ru/science/earth/106922-earth_ice_age-0
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My incremental work in the zero degree (not wind chill) temps last night were: I applied liquid tape to the connections on the GP relay. I also installed plastic wire split conduit from 6" inside the car to about 18" in the engine compartment. I have the temp probe ready to install in the boss. I tried to take a photo of this small work, but the camera froze more than I did and refused to snap. So, here's a frozen photo from my wife's home town instead ;-)
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/2009-01-05.jpg)
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you ere a brave man to work in those chilly conditions :)
keep up the good work, can't wait to hear it's done :!:
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you ere a brave man to work in those chilly conditions :)
keep up the good work, can't wait to hear it's done :!:
Either that or a bit crazy ;-P I'm quite motivated to start driving it as my daily driver.
Thanks !!
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Personally I think we are all a bit crazy :lol:
BTW I like what you did with your gauge cluster!
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that is some CLEAN wiring. I really like it.
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the amount of time that goes in to these project is insane.I spent 1 full year on my truck working whenever i could.the end is the worst when your close to driving but there alway little thing that need worked out.
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the amount of time that goes in to these project is insane.I spent 1 full year on my truck working whenever i could.the end is the worst when your close to driving but there alway little thing that need worked out.
LOL !! How true. Building an airplane is the same thing.. we have a saying
"95% done, 50% more to go." But, like building a plane, it is well worth it as I will effective have a NEW car you can't buy anywhere for less than the price of a junker.
Here's the view of the 1 degree snowscape I walked into last night for a few frozen minutes of preasureable work.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4740.jpg)
Here is the GP relay and the liquid tape I put on the connections.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4739.jpg)
Here's the conduit. This will be tie-rapped to the side next to the power brake unit.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4735.jpg)
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Back to work after 3 days off. I had high hopes of big progress, but it was bitter cold here. Some days were below zero F without wind. But, I did get some things done... even with the additional half a foot of snow. It sure looks good, though.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/IMGP0148.jpg)
Poor frozen car...
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/IMGP0155.jpg)
OK, I decided I wanted the GP relay inside the car to protect against corrosion.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4745.jpg)
The duel fuses are at the battery.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4743.jpg)
Here is the grommet I made with radiator hose.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4741.jpg)
Here is high temp RTV for sealing and fire proofing of sorts.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4746.jpg)
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Here's what I have left to do in some what of an order:
Connect the sensor lines to the engine
Connect the wires from the instrument cluster to the vehicle / engine
Secure the wiring harness from the cluster under the hood
Secure the GP relay
Replace knee board below steering column
Mount fuel filter
Mount aux fuel pump
Fabricate anti-torque engine mount.
Connect turbo drain line to block
remove gasser wires / ECM
Install coolant lines
Install alternator mount **** Almost forgot this one ***
Install alternator **** Almost forgot this one ***
Find right side belt for alternator **** Almost forgot this one ***
install a/c compressor mount and compressor **** Almost forgot this one ***
Install radiator & expansion tank
Fill coolant
Install battery box
Fabricate intake filter lines / install
Install intake heater
Connect turbo - intake (intercooler when spring comes)
Torque passenger side drive shaft bolts
Install clamps to down pipe / flex joint
Fabricate S.S. elbow of 130 degrees
Install exhaust / muffler
Remove stock fuel pump power
Start engine
Run to operating temp w/o expansion tank cap
Top off coolant
Retorque head bolts
Attach hood to hinges
WOW, I have lots more to do…. Good thing it will be warmer here this week.
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There are 2 more items I need to do.
I need to get and install a speedo sending unit on my trans. Does anyone have one ? Here's my request:
http://www.vwdiesel.net/phpBB/viewtopic.php?p=133588#133588
I also need to connect the fuel lines and the block heater wire.
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your getting assaulted by "the little things"I hate all the small electrical stuff that needs done.Do you have a tach in the dash?Im doing my digital dakota box as we speak.I cant find the toyota igniter signal wire for the tach though.I have three different manuals none with the proper schematics for the v6 engine,sucks.
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. browers errors
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your getting assaulted by "the little things"I hate all the small electrical stuff that needs done.Do you have a tach in the dash?Im doing my digital dakota box as we speak.I cant find the toyota igniter signal wire for the tach though.I have three different manuals none with the proper schematics for the v6 engine,sucks.
LOL !! Yeah, you got it !! I wanted to try and use the Chrysler speedo that is in the dash. It is electronic. That's why I want the speedo gear sending unit for my VW trans.... do you have one ? Progress was slow this weekend due to a sore throught I developed. The 10 degree days that returned has something to do with it too.
I have the Chrysler repair manual with good wiring diagrams, or so they look ;-)
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i've seen a guy convert an electrical gauge into mechanical... he used some tube to make it work. i would go that route rather than electrical... some units use an inductive signal. i could get more info on how it was done if you're serious about it.
it was for an Audi :wink: but should work on the Chrysler
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i've seen a guy convert an electrical gauge into mechanical... he used some tube to make it work. i would go that route rather than electrical... some units use an inductive signal. i could get more info on how it was done if you're serious about it.
it was for an Audi :wink: but should work on the Chrysler
I'd be game for that... let me know. Otherwise the electrical gear sending unit I'll keep looking for.
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This weekend I braved the cold with a sore throat, so work was slow. I got the coolant temp and oil pressure lines connected. I tie-rapped the cable bundle to the bottom of the master cylinder - sorry no photos, it was so cold that the digital camera refused to work after getting frozen with me ;-) I also ran the IP solenoid indicator light to the IP. (on my new cluster). I roughly placed the fuel filter where it will be mounted.
Step by step, but remember this is FUN for me :-D
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I have a mechanical speedo gear and cable.Is that what you need?
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I have a mechanical speedo gear and cable.Is that what you need?
If I can't find the electronic speedo sending unit (gear) then I might have to use the cable drive..
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have you taken the caravan speedo sensor out to examine it? i assume its one that spins?
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have you taken the caravan speedo sensor out to examine it? i assume its one that spins?
Yes, I was intending on using the Chrysler sensor in the VW as they look and function nearly the same, but the VW hole is smaller than the Chrysler gear so it will not fit. So, I keep looking.
Searching the parts sites, it looks like the gear unit that bolts to the trans case is what I need. Hopefully one that goes to an electronic speedo.
Maybe somethiing like this:
(http://www2.partstrain.com/store/images/prodimage/images/WORLDPAC/W01331620593VMO.JPG)
[/img]
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I have learned this is the part I need - it is from an manual trans on the MK3
(http://www.germanautoparts.com/images/7607a6e214934313931393038413/f)
http://www.germanautoparts.com/images/7607a6e214934313931393038413/f
Does anyone have one ?
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I've had a respiratory infection for almost 2 weeks, so no work in the cold...
Just got some Z-Pack antibiotics, so I'll be back in the groove in a couple of days :-)
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I'm in love again !! I missed my diesel mistress. ;-P
I received my speedo sending unit from ktzdsl - THANKS DUDE !!
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4764.jpg)
Installing it was a little more challenging because I didn't want to lift the car. I could not find the correct bolt to hold the sender in the trans.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4767.jpg)
Next I reattached the oil sending line to the filter boss as it looked like it got bent and I didn't want the plastic to fail. I then sealed the temp sending line to the mechanical gauge. Next I installed the last 2 hoses to the water pump.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4770.jpg)
PROGRESS !!!!
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We had rain last night, so I worked in the garage fabricating the air filter hardware. I have some 2" ID aluminum tube I was going to use.. I cut a piece off and formed it to the 4" OD I need for the K&N filter. I used a 4" PVC pipe and a rubber mallet to form it. Next I welded the seam.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4771.jpg)
It did not weld cleanly. The grade is unknown. I should buy some 6061 and do this again. The back side was even worst.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4772.jpg)
Well, maybe I polish it up and see how it looks.
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I decided that aluminum was garbage and used some flat stock I have that is weld-able. Forming it was a little hard to do without a rolling mill or English Wheel. here is my welded unfinished ring and the one I tried to make. The bar stock is under it.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4774.jpg)
Here it is in the K&N filter and finished OD.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4775.jpg)
I have not decided if I should weld up the reduction or just buy a 3.5" - 2" silicone... I want to be making smoke this coming weekend, so I'll probably make it.
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Looking at the photos again of the aluminum tube, it appears that the 2" tube was coated with some kind of anticorrosion layer that could have been preventing the TIG cleaning spray from pulling aluminum atoms from the surface. I'll pickup a sand blasting cabinet today from "China Freight" (http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/photos/93600-93699/93608.gif)
and try bead blasting the tube before I try to weld the thick collar I made with the 2" tube using the 2 halves I formed.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4771.jpg)
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My garage was filled with parts and boxes for my laterst tool to do my diesel conversion. Isn't it great to justify new tools with such a money saving project as a diesel daily driver ? :-)
Some assemby required !!
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/natascha004.jpg)
The bolts around the bottom were not fun - its quite the reach to the other side from the assess door.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/natascha005.jpg)
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We had another winter storm here this weekend with blowing snow... so I worked inside. The coating on the aluminum was the cause of the poor welding. The bead blasting cleaned it nicely. I needed to go from 3.5" to 2", so I cut some "V"'s out of the thin walled tube to reduce it.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/intake001.jpg)
The welding was just OK. It should hold up nicely.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/intake002.jpg)
I painted it with the same hammer tone paint I used on the instrument cluster.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/intake003.jpg)
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I'm on a roll now... after I noticed my argon regulator got bumped up to 60 cfm !! I lost almost half a tank on just that one flange for the K&N :-(
Anyway, mounted the aux fuel pump last night. Got the plumbing and electrical connections to it as well. Have not decided where to mount the fuel filter or coolant reservoir though.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/cooling.jpg)
Plumbed the heater as well.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/cooling001.jpg)
Got the oil cooler plumbed. Still need to finish the turbo / vac pump return lines... next !
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/cooling003.jpg)
and the rest of the cooling lines, except the radiator as it is big and I'll wait until the rest of the engine compartment is nearly done. I used the stock metal line from the heater to the pump. In this case, it goes to the oil cooler.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/cooling002.jpg)
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I had a marathon building session yesterday. I started with connecting all the wires from the instrument cluster to the engine. WOW, this took most of the day as I had made a couple mistakes.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/mount007.jpg)
The wire to from the glow plus to the GP indicator light (to show if they have power for any reason) I forgot to run in the wire harness I made and installed. Man. I don't look forward to snaking another wire, so I reused the ignition supply line for the instrument cluster to be used as the GP light. I then found how useless my Chilton's manual was for this Caravan - no real wiring diagram. So, I searched the web to find where I could tap into the IGN circuit... the radio !
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/mount013.jpg)
I also didn't connect the Boost gauge's light to power. I also forgot to have a wire exit the cluster for the gauge lights. I did find where to tap into the instrument lights in the Chilton (IF it works !! - the Orange/white wire at the dimmer / light switch. Next I secured the cluster to the dash, secured the GP relay, closed the knee board, and decided I better get more Argon for making the anti-torque mount. Notice how high the feed regulator got pumped to. Hard to believe Miller didn't include a jam nut on the regulator.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/mount014.jpg)
Next I put another 6 gallons of diesel in the tank. It was in a gas can and I wanted to be sure no water got into since I bought the fuel a number of months ago. So, I screened it through a paper towel.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/mount011.jpg)
Next I connected all the coolant lines and the oil return line for the turbo.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/mount004.jpg)
Next I secured the IP fuel shut-off wires - notice the liquid tape sealing the splices. I also connected the vacuum lines and secured them.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/mount006.jpg)
Next, the alternator bracket was mounted. Wow, the space around the mount I made is very tight. I didn't think it would be when I made the mount.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/mount009.jpg)
This will need some re-routing of the lines.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/mount010.jpg)
OK, I moved the heater / oil cooler return line to above the mount.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/mount012.jpg)
Last, I mounted the alternator. The travel is not as much as I had designed in the bracket as I didn't take into account the water pump is in the way of the alternator's swing.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/mount016.jpg)
Here is my much shorter list now:
Fabricate anti-torque engine mount.
remove gasser wires / ECM
Connect alternator wires
Find right side belt for alternator
install a/c compressor mount and compressor
Install radiator & expansion tank
Mount fuel filter
Fill coolant
Install battery box
Install intake heater
Connect turbo - intake (intercooler when spring comes)
Torque passenger side drive shaft bolts
Install clamps to down pipe / flex joint
Fabricate S.S. elbow of 130 degrees
Install exhaust / muffler
Remove stock fuel pump power
Start engine
Run to operating temp w/o expansion tank cap
Top off coolant
Retorque head bolts
Attach hood to hinges
Almost forgot, replace stone shields, make curb-strike guard to protect engine - Alternator.
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Thanks Andrew. I only had the aluminum tube to work with. It was rather hard to bend. Flat stock would have been MUCH easier to work with, and I would not have wasted half a bottle of argon ($27 to exchange) on that one part !! (the regulator issue ;-)
I also had a terrific head ache all the next day - ibuprofen and aspirin would not touch it... too much argon ? Maybe being in the cold for so long welding.
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Thanks, I was a little dissapointed with it ;-)
I just realized I need to make one more small part - My throttle cable for the Caravan is the style with the tubular lead chunk at the end, just like most cables are on motorcycles. My IP had a ball joint at the end of the throttle arm. I was thinking of removing this ball stud, and welding a small block of soft steel to it - cut it at 90 degrees with the band saw for the cable to slide through, and drill the hole for the lead cylinder to pass through, like on motorcycles.
Got a better idea ?
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We had a steady rain here last night, so I worked on the exhaust system from the down pipe on. I got a pipe expander from Murray's Discount auto. Its a kit that comes with a chain pipe cutter (that I would never use on a car) and the expander were in a nice case, and they charged the steep price of $50... but they give it back to you when you return the tools. It is a free rental if you will. First I opened the free flow turbo muffler and found a sticker for the window in it.. I would have liked S.S. but for a diesel this far from the turbo, it should last forever..
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/pipes001.jpg)
I have a similar batch of tubing. I thought it was S.S. as it has been left out in the rain / snow for about 10 years and there is no rust. I got it at a scrap yard when I was trading metals. Here is the fit in the muffler. I'll need to expand the tube to make a tighter fit.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/pipes002.jpg)
Same thing for the flex joint. More space than I expected...
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/pipes003.jpg)
Here is the expander at work. It did not work as well as I hoped. I used my 300 ft/lb impact on it and it did not stretch the tube very much. That tube must be S.S. as it is tough stuff. I expanded it about 4 times, turning the tool a little each time as it creates a not perfect circle. The pipe wrench moved a little when I setup this photo... I was not trying to expand the pipe wrench too ;-)
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/pipes004.jpg)
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We had bitter cold this weekend and strong winds Sunday, so I worked slower than usual... Saturday afternoon was not so bad, but I had to prepare for my wife's "Woman's Day" gift - she said she wanted me to take her and her girlfriend (also Ukrainian) flying for woman's day. I had not flown for 3 years, so I needed my Flight Review. This I did Saturday. By evening I was legal to fly again so back to the project. I bought $42 worth of hose and exhaust clamps. Hopefully that's enough. ;-) The first thing was to fix the kink in the hose entering the water pump.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/tubes002.jpg)
I'm not a big fan of 90 degree elbows, but I over sized the hose in the first place, so the reduction in flow from the turn should be not a big deal.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/tubes004.jpg)
This gave a good exit to the oil cooler.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/tubes005.jpg)
Next was a reducer for the air intake to the turbo.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/tubes008.jpg)
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Bitter cold here last night - the wind blowing across the lake was about 6 degrees F. So, only incremental work. I cut and bead blasted 1/8" aluminum plates I cut to block the open top port on my turbo intake. I might install a 12v toaster element in it if I think it will be easy and quick. Looks that way now. I have these plates in my vice now ready to weld around the parting line to form a single 1/4" plate.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/plates002.jpg)
I also assembled the intake feed hose right up to the reducer than will go in the car tonight.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/plates001.jpg)
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I got this PM from Rabbit on Roids - Thought you all should see it. I didn't know, but the argon was the only thing I could blame my all day head ache for...
Subject: welding/argon saturation
i was just reading about your van (and your issue using a half bottle on one part) but im gonna let you in on a secret my dad and grandpa taught me, and they are both welders by profession. but if you breathe too much argon and you feel like crap, its probably argon poisoning. if it ever happens again, stand on your head, or by some way, turn yourself upside down. argon is heavier than air, and you get argon saturation very fast in your lungs. i have no idea when that post was from or anything, but i just thought i would let you in on that secret.
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Family day last night... small work..
I took a couple feet of 3/8" rope and ran it around the pulley's of the engine. I pulled it tight and cut it to length. This gave me my V belt size. The Autozone guy rolled his eyes when I told him he would not be able to look up my belt as it a Caravan with a VW diesel with a GM alternator ;-) So he tried to size it for me. He handed me the correct length V belt, but it was a Utility Belt. I explained this was great for furnace blowers, bench grinders, etc.. but they are all low power applications and the cloth rapping of the belt would quickly come off when my 65 amps are being produced, so the other guy took over my search. We found the right one... I think ;-)
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Maybe someone can answer my question on the speedo sender wires ?
http://www.vwdiesel.net/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=18674
Last night I got closer to first start ;-)
I got some radiator support bushings from a local radiator shop ran by an OLD guy... the local Chrysler dealer said tough luck on buying then as 1992 is VERY old and discontinued long ago. At first the old dude said tough luck too.... I explained about my VW diesel in a Dodge and it peaked his interest... then he remember he had a bucket stashed someplace. There were 2 different sized. We showed me the smaller diameter and I said "That's it !" but when I saw the larger, it looked good too, so I took 2 of them. He told me to bring him back $1 for them when I could as I only had plastic and checks in pocket. I tried to install them, but they were too big and he was closed....
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/plate001.jpg)
I then took some Never Seize and applied to the ends. I used a 3/8" socket extension to "pull" them in from the ends.. worked perfect !!
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/plate002.jpg)
Here's the rope from yesterday... to measure the belt length.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/plate004.jpg)
To block the open port on my head
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/102_4497.jpg)
I cut 2 pieces of 1/8" aluminum stock and shaped to the rough shape.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/plate003.jpg)
Then I welded them together
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/plate006.jpg)
and sanded the mating surface flat on my bench belt sander. You will also see the 1.375" to 1.75" adaptor I am making. Notice the ridge at one end of the tube. My turbo has about a 1" discharge opening for the pressure side. The intake manifold is about 1.75". Since they will be under pressure, I welded the ridge to keep the hose from slipping off.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/plate009.jpg)
Here is the other end of the reducer. It will also be a 100 degree elbow.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/plate007.jpg)
The little plates will seal the gap where it is reducing.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/plate008.jpg)
I had to stop welding as my Miller automagic helmet went all black, I thought I could still weld, but it was completely blocking the light, not just the dangerous light.... I had not placed it in the sun for some weeks. It is inside the house in a window now.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/plate010.jpg)
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After reading today's post on IC, http://vwdiesel.net/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=18684
I've decided I'll take a slightly different approach that will cost me a couple more hours now but save time when its warm in a few months - I'll not make that 100 degree turn from the turbo to the intake like my engine would be stock, instead I'll go 2" for a full route around the perimeter of the engine bay near the hood line. This will make it easy to install the IC w/o touching the turbo / manifold, and also give a little cooling along the way.
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THought I was getting an 83' TD to rebuild and put in the Caravan when I wore our the existing engine...
Buyer beware !!!!!!!!!! Danger Will Robinson, DANGER !!!
I just drove 16 hours from Michigan to & from that "Jeff Dersche [email protected]
705-754-1218 905-449-3214" in Haliburton ON to buy a broken 1983 TD Rabbit. He claimed $300 - $500 and said I could get it running. What a joke. He suddenly had no title for it and knew this from the start, so why tell me the day before he had it and that the trans and engine were installed in the car - the axle shafts as well as he knew I had a tow bar...
Well, he was really trying to get me to drop $2,000 on the P.O.S. 1980 rabbit that was cobbled together with a collection of parts. He was even driving it with the timing belt covers missing.... MANY issues with this car. While I was looking at it, another set of men had driven for many hours to see it too !!! What a lying piece of excrement Jeff is. And this first car, the 1983 that suddenly had no title, it suddenly had no engine, no trans, no windshield, no axles, no door knobs, In short, it was a rusted hulk ready for the shredder. And his "complete turbo engine" ? LOL !! No head, no IM shaft, NA block, no IP, and the pistons were rusted solid in the bores. Looks like it seized so he started parting it out...
Beware of Jeff Dersche in Ontario.d knew this from the start, so why tell me the day before he had it and that the trans and engine were installed in the car - the axle shafts as well as he knew I was going to use a tow bar to tow it home...
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Yesterday was rained out for working on the car directly, so my son and I worked on the turbo plumbing. First thing, I tried to weld but my auto helmet from Miller only has solar cells and the built in battery was dead... so I tried to charge it with a sun lamp...
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/weld002.jpg)
I tried to weld with my old school arc helmet, but the results were not good.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/weld001.jpg)
Zach bead blasted the ends of the 2" tube so I can weld a ridge all the way around to protect against the silicone from slipping off. I think stock 12 psi isn't enough, but I might be wrong. We got some of the plumbing done...
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/weld006.jpg)
I also made a S.S. 7mm bolt out of an 8mm bolt to hold the speedo sender in. Getting it to start took some persuasion.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/weld003.jpg)
The results looked good.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/weld005.jpg)
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Getting very very close to FIRST START !! My 20' x 20' garage was packed with an airplane project I had been working on for years. My wife wanted me to start a new one that could land on water, so I sold it. The trucking company finally came last night, so I suddenly have room in my garage !! Took a lot of time loading the plane though...
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/plane005.jpg)
So, in the hour I had left, I connected the air intake - I might shorten this up by 6" when I route the IC lines behind it. I also will be making a dirt shield after I'm driving it.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/plane010.jpg)
I fitted the alternator belt - its 1" too short, so back to Autozone tonight ;-)
Next I fitted the IC feed line to the intake manifold.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/plane011.jpg)
I need to finish welding my reducer tonight... Yesterday I took my Miller auto-dark welding helmet to the Miller dealer. They made this one with a soldered in lithium battery they clearly did not want you to replace.. So, be careful if you buy a auto-dark helmet - be sure the lithium battery (they are all solar powered) is user replaceable. I bought a replacement 4" x 5" auto-dark lens for my oldie moldy helmet like my Grandpa had - he never Heli Arc welded think walled aluminum ;-)
Last, I started to fit the intake blocking plate. I might put a toaster element on this plate at some point. I need to drill the 2 bolt holes as well as drill and tap for the turbo boost gauge. I lost the brass fitting for my gauge, so I had to get a replacement last night... Lots of running around last night - Oh yeah, I also bought a new 16 psi rad cap for the Dodge radiator.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/plane012.jpg)
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Sorry to hear...I'd be pissed! I don't live too far from Haliburton...there are some interesting characters up there. Why did you drive 16 hrs for that? There's got to be lots of 1.6s much closer to you...?
THought I was getting an 83' TD to rebuild and put in the Caravan when I wore our the existing engine...
Buyer beware !!!!!!!!!! Danger Will Robinson, DANGER !!!
I just drove 16 hours from Michigan to & from that "Jeff Dersche [email protected]
705-754-1218 905-449-3214" in Haliburton ON to buy a broken 1983 TD Rabbit. He claimed $300 - $500 and said I could get it running. What a joke. He suddenly had no title for it and knew this from the start, so why tell me the day before he had it and that the trans and engine were installed in the car - the axle shafts as well as he knew I had a tow bar...
Well, he was really trying to get me to drop $2,000 on the P.O.S. 1980 rabbit that was cobbled together with a collection of parts. He was even driving it with the timing belt covers missing.... MANY issues with this car. While I was looking at it, another set of men had driven for many hours to see it too !!! What a lying piece of excrement Jeff is. And this first car, the 1983 that suddenly had no title, it suddenly had no engine, no trans, no windshield, no axles, no door knobs, In short, it was a rusted hulk ready for the shredder. And his "complete turbo engine" ? LOL !! No head, no IM shaft, NA block, no IP, and the pistons were rusted solid in the bores. Looks like it seized so he started parting it out...
Beware of Jeff Dersche in Ontario.d knew this from the start, so why tell me the day before he had it and that the trans and engine were installed in the car - the axle shafts as well as he knew I was going to use a tow bar to tow it home...
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Sorry to hear...I'd be pissed! I don't live too far from Haliburton...there are some interesting characters up there. Why did you drive 16 hrs for that? There's got to be lots of 1.6s much closer to you...?
Well, around here the IDI's are hard to find and the seller usually looks on eBay and see's a mint Caddy in California sell for $3,500 so figures their MKI is worth thousands even if it can't start. So, his offer for a TD complete and rust free for $300 - $500 Canadian = $225 - $375 USD sounded good, even with the $100 in gas I'd burn. Yes, it was interesting driving up there. I was expecting the guy to have a collection of several dozen broken MKI and MKII in his front yard like so many homes around the many lakes I pasted.
In stead, I got burned. At least his name and number are on the net now and if anyone googles "Jeff Dersche [email protected]
705-754-1218 905-449-3214" they will see he is a scammer, maybe a car thief as evident from the rusted stripped 1983 Rabbit he has w/o papers.
So, last night I did some more aluminum fabrication with my new welding lens in a very old welding helmet. The camera batteries where dead so no photos. I also returned the 15330 belt and got a 15335 and 15345 - They did not have a 15340. The "33" in these is the length in inches, so I have a 33.5" and 34.5" belts to try tonight.
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One interesting event in Halliburton, both the scammer and his neighbor spoke about Giles !! His name is spoken even up there. He claimed the IP in the N/A 1980 he tried to sell me was "A Giles Pump"... but since everything else he said had become a lie, I didn't bite. Besides, Giles would not install an IP w/o the stone shields. ;-)
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Wife's birthday was Wednesday, so little work the past 2 days.. here's what I did -
Got 2 other belts for the alternator:
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/pump007.jpg)
Got the new auto - darkening lens for my helmet, but the strap was broken and this one from a face shield does not fit well. Maybe I take it back...
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/pump009.jpg)
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/pump010.jpg)
I need only 2 more custom size reducers. I started both and tried to finish one last night.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/pump008.jpg)
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Sorry to hear...I'd be pissed! I don't live too far from Haliburton...there are some interesting characters up there. Why did you drive 16 hrs for that? There's got to be lots of 1.6s much closer to you...?
Well, around here the IDI's are hard to find and the seller usually looks on eBay and see's a mint Caddy in California sell for $3,500 so figures their MKI is worth thousands even if it can't start. So, his offer for a TD complete and rust free for $300 - $500 Canadian = $225 - $375 USD sounded good, even with the $100 in gas I'd burn. Yes, it was interesting driving up there. I was expecting the guy to have a collection of several dozen broken MKI and MKII in his front yard like so many homes around the many lakes I pasted.
In stead, I got burned. At least his name and number are on the net now and if anyone googles "Jeff Dersche [email protected]
705-754-1218 905-449-3214" they will see he is a scammer, maybe a car thief as evident from the rusted stripped 1983 Rabbit he has w/o papers.
So, last night I did some more aluminum fabrication with my new welding lens in a very old welding helmet. The camera batteries where dead so no photos. I also returned the 15330 belt and got a 15335 and 15345 - They did not have a 15340. The "33" in these is the length in inches, so I have a 33.5" and 34.5" belts to try tonight.
and this is the same Jeff parting out those cars in the for sale section? hmmm... i'd be pissed! you should have made a stop by to Giles if his shop was open at the time. at least make the best of it and see how he runs things :)
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and this is the same Jeff parting out those cars in the for sale section? hmmm... i'd be pissed! you should have made a stop by to Giles if his shop was open at the time. at least make the best of it and see how he runs things :)
YES, the very same Jeff Desroche. That's how I came into contact with him... so, unless you live in Halliburton ON, I would not waste the breath in my lungs to talk to him.
Yeah, it had become late Saturday by the time we were back down to Toronto, so I was sure Giles was doing 12 oz curls, or what ever he drinks :-)
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No work Saturday on my ride.... but Sunday I got some progress. I made the top manifold plate. I needed a shorter 8mm stainless Steel bolt.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/IC001.jpg)
Here it is installed.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/IC002.jpg)
I needed to make another reducer. This is 1/8" plate aluminum.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/IC004.jpg)
Here is the intake side of the loop complete.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/IC005.jpg)
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Last night I fabricated some of the plumbing for the IC loop. Question, with stock boost, will the 2" silicone clamp to the aluminum pipe without blowing off if I don't weld a ridge around the end?
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Last night I fabricated some of the plumbing for the IC loop. Question, with stock boost, will the 2" silicone clamp to the aluminum pipe without blowing off if I don't weld a ridge around the end?
it wouldn't be a bad idea, but you don't need to weld it. get an old pair of vice grips and modify them into a crimping tool. theres a thread floating around where it was done. it was Jake's (fspGTD)
i'd imagine that you might want to run more than stock boost to get your van goin :wink:
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LOL !! Yes, I might need more power especially if I haul my pop-up camper behind it :-D
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Here is the intake side of the loop complete.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/IC005.jpg)
FYI, this is what happens over time when screw type hose clamps are used on silicone intercooler piping.
(http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a165/palmer80/1999%209-3%20pictures/9-3ICre-install003.jpg)
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yea but arb's don't look like they have open slits... its easier to make them that way, but i bet his are dimpled, so they won't 'slice' the silicon. it looks like they were tightened a little too much... i'd rather crimp the ends and not have to overtighten them.
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Point well taken on the cheap clamps. On my airplane I would never use these clamps as they will fail or become loose at some point. For aircraft was use constant pressure clamps with springs in the jack screw. I have welded a ridge on almost all my pipes so I don't have to get crazy with clamping pressure.
Some have sent me messages about my Miller auto-darkening helmet. The fault was not that it was solar powered, the fault was Miller decided to seal a soldered on battery to the logic board so you had to buy a new $150 helmet when it wears out. I'm going to replace my soldered on battery, but my wife said go and buy a second helmet so you never have to worry about it again or have to wait for your helmet to "Charge in the sun"...
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/miller001.jpg)
My new Miller (It was the cheapest they carried in an auto darkening - would have liked the $425 helmet with side lenses too and a huge face panel ;-) This one has AAA batteries:
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/miller003.jpg)
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/miller002.jpg)
So, before going to the fatness center to loose the bear belly, I welded my last size increaser.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/miller004.jpg)
I then had to trim the radiator over flow tank's bracket to allow the IC pipe to pass under the hood. Thought about running sans hood like the high school hot rods did back in my days... 8-)
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/miller006.jpg)
This is a side increaser, so the step does not bother me. This is right off the TC.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/miller007.jpg)
And here it is !!!! My TC completely installed !!! No other plumbing to do on the TC. The BOV exit needs a hose to keep the dirt out, and the original hose to the LDA needs to be blocked, but the TC is happy !
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/miller008.jpg)
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Last night I made the fuel filter mount. I am going to bolt it to the passenger side strut tower. I was going to use aluminum, but decided on steel as the second thing I was going to start building is the anti-torque mounts and they need to be steel ... Here's the paint drying on the filter mount.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/mount017.jpg)
So, I decided on using 2 anti-torque mounts. One being the extension I put on the alternator / A/C compressor mount. It is anchored to the side of the block. But, I don't want all the torque going there when I try pulling the pop-up, or get hooked on big power down the road ;-) Here's the side mount, up side down.. Maybe a photo on the block will be clear?
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/102_4476.jpg)
The second mount will be across the top two bolts on the bell housing and go back to the fire wall. They will connect with rubber bushings. Here is the front bolt. I might add a piece of flat stock to make a triangle box over the rear bolt and most of the way to the firewall.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/mount019.jpg)
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Busy weekend, but I got very close to first start !!
I started by trying to mount the fuel filter, but the bolt on top of the strut tower snapped off :-( I'll fix that later.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/rad001.jpg)
So I used 3 self tapping sheet metal screws instead. They are in the perimeter of the strut tower so they don't touch the spring or strut.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/rad005.jpg)
Next I fabricated the anti-torque mount. I can up with a mount that goes across the top 2 bell housing bolts and goes back to the firewall. There it triangulates to the differential housing mount. I found a metric self locking nut in my tool box for this.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/rad002.jpg)
I made the firewall part of the mount with more angle steel. It is bolted to the firewall with 5 closely spaced 3/8" bolts with self locking nuts. I used a stainless steel bolt for the mount. It has a washer with 2 sides bend up to prevent the bolt from turning. I used a sandwich of radiator hose for the mount.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/rad004.jpg)
On the inside of the firewall I made a clamping plate from 1/8" bar stock to distribute the forces. My son helped me with this as I needed to be on both sides of the firewall at the same time. The gas peddle needed to be R&R'd
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/rad003.jpg)
I'll try and take photos of the mount tonight.... With everything torqued, I finally got to install the radiator and expansion tank. I have to make a mounting bracket for the tank, but for the moment, it is resting here.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/rad006.jpg)
I then filled the system with 6 quarts of 50/50 extended life fluid. My brother says it is just 2x the cost, but hey, if it reduces the change time, I'm OK with that.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/rad007.jpg)
Now, the fan belt and a few wires and I will be at first start !!!!
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My short list to driving now:
Install belt for alternator
connect alternator wires
install a/c compressor mount and compressor
Install battery box
Re-install intercooler loop and air filter
Torque passenger side drive shaft bolts
Install clamps to down pipe / flex joint
Fabricate S.S. elbow of 130 degrees
Install exhaust / muffler
Start engine
Run to operating temp w/o expansion tank cap
Top off coolant
Retorque head bolts
Attach hood to hinges
replace stone shields, make curb-strike guard to protect engine - Alternator.
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I made smoke last night !! I didn't get the photos uploaded yet, so they will wait. The alternator did not have enough travel as I made the bracket off the engine and did not realize the water pump is a limiter for alternator travel. So, I cut the bracket in 2 places and TIG welded it on the car. I hate TIG welding laying on my side and using my knee to operate the welding peddle. It worked great. The alternator is not installed with self locking nuts. I installed the air filter and IC lines I removed to do the mount... Then I installed the battery box support and set a battery on it for a test start. I only connected the IP cut-off solenoid and starter to the battery. I briefly ran the aux fuel pump, but noticed the return hose for injector #2 was leaking. I need to replace the hose. I then held the GP feed to the battery for 20 seconds, then using a screw driver, ran the starter. Only 2 of the 4 injectors have the air out of them, so the other 2 have their feed lines still loose. The engine fired a few times, but the battery was not fully charged, so I stopped cranking. One of the injects then started to squirt fuel out of the cracked nut, so I torque it down. Only one injector to prime now. It is raining, so I might not try again tonight. Photos to follow. SMOKE !!! We had SMOKE !!!!
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That's awesome. I always seem to find first starts more exciting than being chased by a tiger.
BTW, I can understand wanting to keep the intercooler piping out of the way, but any addition length the the pipe increases turbo lag. I'm not saying the routing is bad, just something to consider.
Andrew
Thanks !! I jumped ahead of my list to do first start last night !! My wife came to see how I was doing and I used that as an excuse to do this :-)
Yes, I understood about the extra volumes in the loop increasing lag, but I'm not going to drive this like a GT The tiny turbo I have will surprise me if I can get 12 psi out of it.
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Here are the photos from Wednesday and one from last night..
Here's the alternator arm. It needs to be more to the front for travel.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4918.jpg)
Here is the bracket after I cut it twice and TIG welded both sides.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4920.jpg)
Here is the battery on the now installed battery support. Notice the temporary wiring.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4921.jpg)
FIRST START !! Me hot wiring the starter...
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4923.jpg)
These wires need to be cleaned up.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4924.jpg)
It doesn't look so bad from here.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4926.jpg)
OK, last night I only had a few minutes... I was looking for the wire harness from the Dodge start. I remember cutting it off the starter when I scrapped the starter in the summer before the crash of the scrap metal market. I found the harness for the alternator, so this is good, but I still need to other too. Most of the wires on these 2 harnesses will be removed.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4927.jpg)
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We had another snow storm yesterday I was lazy from it... so I had some small increment of progress. Saturday was nice, but I had to service the V4 engine on my boat before the water raises up to its rear and I don't have a yard of beach to stand on while doing the engine work... Sunday I started by clearing the 6" deep pile of tools and parts on my work bench. Now to real progress. Wow, my photos didn't upload to Photobucket...
Anyway, I removed the covering from the wire harness to the alternator and engine. I could not determine which connector fit the radiator fan while it was in the car. None of the connectors would snap on the fan motor. So, I removed the fan again. It was easy to see which one was needed now. The remaining question is where is the sensor for the fan relay? The shop manual only shows "Typical" wiring diagrams.
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I just found out the operation of my radiator fan... From http://autorepair.about.com/library/faqs/bl437g.htm#
Fan control is accomplished in two ways. The fan always runs when the air conditioning compressor clutch is engaged. In addition to this control, the fan is turned on by the temperature of the coolant which is sensed by the coolant temperature sensor which sends the message to the on-board computer. The computer turns on the fan through the fan relay.
Switching through the on-board computer provides fan control for the following conditions.
The fan will not run during cranking until the engine starts no matter what the coolant temperature is.
Fan will always run when the air conditioning clutch is engaged.
On non-air conditioned vehicles or with air conditioning off the fan will run at vehicle speeds above about 40 mph only if coolant temperature reaches 230°F and will turn off when the temperature drops to 220°F. At speeds below 40 mph the fan switches on at 210°F and off at 200°F.
There also is included a method to help prevent "steaming" (water vapor evaporated by hot water circulating through the radiator evaporating moisture on the outside of the radiator and when there is no ram air to blow it under the vehicle) the fan will run only below 60°F ambient, from 100°F 195°F coolant temperature only at idle, and zero vehicle speed and then only for three minutes.
Here's the sensor I need to buy today:
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/sensor.jpg)
So, the only question will be how happy my ECM will be to run the car w/o the engine :-) For $48 I can put a separate system on to run the fan from Mr. Gasket.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/mrgasket.jpg)
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If it were me, I'd want to do away with the Chrysler ECM. You could rig up a fan control system without that kit. Just get a N/O coolant temp switch and wire it up to the control side of a relay that turns the fan on. Might have to get creative with the install of the temp switch...
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If it were me, I'd want to do away with the Chrysler ECM. You could rig up a fan control system without that kit. Just get a N/O coolant temp switch and wire it up to the control side of a relay that turns the fan on. Might have to get creative with the install of the temp switch...
Looks like that is what I will do. The switch from Chrysler is a bit long...
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4931.jpg) Since it was to go into the radiator, and there is no hole in the radiator for it to go in, I looked at the spare sensor in my head. I measured the resistance of it - 3.8K ohms. The Chrysler was 2.3K ohms. I heated the Chrysler and it went to 4 ohms. I suspect the VW will do the same. I traced the wires back from the fan to the fan relay. So I know which one I need to tap into for the VW sensor.
I also reinstalled the fan last night just before it started to rain. Then I made the bracket to hold the throttle cable. I started with a piece of steel stock.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4932.jpg)
Then I built up the end with TIG welding.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4934.jpg)
I then drilled 2 holes. One for the cable end, the other for the stock VW throttle linkage. This will be welded on the bracket. Next I cut 2 wide slits - one parallel to the cable for after it is installed, the other at 90 degrees so it can be slid in from the side.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4935.jpg)
Here it is painted. Next I need to extend the cable housing bracket a few inches.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4938.jpg)
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Last night I finished making the linkage for the throttle cable. The end I made with the stock ball had a single nut to secure it to the throttle arm on the IP. I wanted a jam nut, so I tapped a 6-32 nut with the 6mm tap.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4954.jpg)
Here is a shot of the anti-torq engine mount from last weekend: You can see I need to secure the brake line and I need to make a strain relief for the turbo supply line.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4957.jpg)
I needed 50mm added to the cable housing. I cut the stock bracket and added the material from 1" angle steel.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4960.jpg)
Next I resolved my fan motor supply issue. I removed the filter and TC lines to get access to the wire harness as the Chilton's wire diagrams were completely useless. It had only 2 that apply to the fan. The one for my year shows the fan getting power only through a switch in the radiator... no relay. I have no switch in the radiator. The diagram for the year after mine used a 2 speed fan and complex relay using the ECM and other logic to control it... not what I have. Mine is simply a relay that is supplied power from the ignition circuit for the relay coil. The ground is routed to the sensor in the head. I connected this to the stock VW sensor. We will see if it works before I swap it for the stock Chrysler switch I just bought.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4959.jpg)
Here's the connection:
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4961.jpg)
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More detail work was done in the engine bay. I put new ends on the alternator ground and positive wires. Here is the ground.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4973.jpg)
Here is the positive end. Notice the white factory connector. I am considering cutting it off and replacing with a new copper lug.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4976.jpg)
Sealed the copper / solder with liquid tape.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4977.jpg)
I completed the throttle linkage installation. It works well and all bolts have loc-tite red. I also re-installed the two injector line clamps. I rapped the IP fuel supply line with hose and secured it to a line so it does not vibrate against the throttle cable.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4974.jpg)
I cut the starter supply line to the correct size.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4978.jpg)
Here is a new lug. I sealed both ends with fresh liquid tape.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4979.jpg)
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4983.jpg)
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4982.jpg)
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thank god for liquid tape :D makes it easy to splice into factory wiring and not wreck it all :lol:
looks like everything is moving well Arb! does your van have dual rad fans or just a single? (i think our '94 had dual but can't remember)
if the fan is a three prong you could probably swap in a vw relay unit to control it, and use the head temp switch.
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thank god for liquid tape :D makes it easy to splice into factory wiring and not wreck it all :lol:
looks like everything is moving well Arb! does your van have dual rad fans or just a single? (i think our '94 had dual but can't remember)
if the fan is a three prong you could probably swap in a vw relay unit to control it, and use the head temp switch.
One nice thing about this van is how wide it is.. the rad only takes up half the grill and has its own high volume fan. The a/c condenser has its own fan on the passenger side. Both have a simple 2 wire connector. I'm going to try the VW sensor before I return the Chrysler switch. The relay is a simple 4 wire - 2 are the coil and the other 2 are the source power and feed to the fan.
Thanks !!
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YIKES !! I uploaded my photos last night in Mega size !!! I just resaved them to a nornal size so the page is readable again...
Last night I worked on cleaning up the wiring under the hood. First, I put a lug on the end of a main cable.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4984-1.jpg)
Next I consider replacing the Dodge connector with copper lugs.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4985-1.jpg)-1
So I cut them off
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4986-1.jpg)
And put lugs w/ liquid tape to seal the cable.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4987-1.jpg)
Last, I completed the GP wires. I had to drill out the lugs.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4989-1.jpg)
Here they are secured to the wiper motor.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4990-1.jpg)
I bolted them all together with a stainless streel nut/bolt with copper washers between each lug, and then sealed it with liquid tape.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4991-1.jpg)
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Wow what a project!!! I like the liquid tape. Real clean. Nice work.
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Wow what a project!!! I like the liquid tape. Real clean. Nice work.
Thanks, its been real fun and I am almost ready to drive.
One thing I should have mentioned about soldering connections. Although they give the best electrical connection and they are sealed against corrosion, there is one risk that needs to be blocked. The point where the solder wicked into the cable is a stress raiser. The copper will crack there and the cable will fail if you do not secure the cable from movement (vibration) Crimping the cable ends allows more movement of the copper with vibration, but I don't want the connections to slowly corrode. So, I'll secure all of them.
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leave the eyes, and you can then drop the glowplugs in or remove by just loosing the nut on the end a bit to allow the glowplug to sping on the terminal. I can change all of my glowplus in about 10 mins this way.
Step 1. Loosen the small not on glow plug but do not remove.
step 2 Loosen glow plugs as the glow plug will sping with on the terminal that is now lose.
Step 3. Use the wire with the glowplug still installed to lift up and remove glowplug.
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Holiday 3 days weekend !! Wow, I had great expectations... one problem, my Jeep on the way to work blew an O2 sensor and went into limp mode. $130.00 and 3 days later, it was happy again but this limited my work on the diesel.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4997.jpg)
My son and I were about to start the diesel with the ignition key !! He is only 12, so it was fun for him to sit in the drivers seat and turn the key. WAIT !! NASA, we have a problem:
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4993.jpg)
I've never seen a temp gauge that high !! What's going on? Check the head - its stone cold. Back to the cabin. I notice my son is sitting in a car that is filling with electrical smoke !!! GET OUT NOW !!! Who says teenagers don't listen to their old parents ? LOL !!!. I popped the battery connection and removed the restraining screws for my instrument pod. The blue toggle switch used to power the aux fuel pump would no longer toggle. Not good. It was warm too. Under the shell, the ground wires to the switch and some of the other instrument lights was toasted. This would imply that some of the power was feeding back through the temp sending capillary causing it to heat.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4994.jpg)
The switch had a clearly burned inside. At the auto store, we opened it and clearly the Chinaman who assembled it slipped with the wire for the illumination bulb and almost burned down my car !!
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4995.jpg)
OK, back to wires under the hood. I recoated the connections with liquid tape.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4992.jpg)
There was a second power feed line I needed to splice to the source.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4998.jpg)
New end.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_5000.jpg)
Recoating the main lines.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4996.jpg)
I connected the alternator main line also.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_5002.jpg)
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More rain here, so small work in the garage. I made the final heavy duty power cable. This connects that last positive cable to the wire harness to the battery. I checked it against the other positive cable and they are connected someplace, so I'm not sure why Chrysler used 2 of them to the wire harness.
So, this wire
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4985-1.jpg)
And this wire
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4998.jpg)
Will be connected to this junction:
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4999.jpg)
Cutting 9 inches off the too long starter positive cable to make this connection:
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_5003.jpg)
Now that the ends are done, I cut a bolt to the minimum length for this connection:
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_5004.jpg)
Now that the liquid tape is drying its second layer, I decided to make a TC pipe crimping tool (or what ever you call it) - it was hard to modify a genuine ViseGrip made in USA that I had for 31 year. But, here goes.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_5008.jpg)
I built up both sides of the jaws so there would be a good die set. (automotive stamping experience)
Here's what the pipes look like. I was more than happy with the results.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_5009.jpg)
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_5011.jpg)
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Did some more crimping on my TC tubes with my new tool. :-) The honey-do list has taken the past couple of days away. With this weekend being Ukrainian Easter (Orthodox) I'll be able to "relax" and tie up the rest of the loose ends on my project. Good thing this project is not work for me and is really enjoyment. . .
At least that's the plan !
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Small increment this weekend. I crimped the rest of the TC pipes. One of them resulted in a stress fracture - look at the far right pipe at about the 1:30 position. Its only about 4 mm long and outside the clamping seal, so I'm going to ignore it.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_5023.jpg)
I also secured the radiator. The factory top bracket lost one of the "blind nuts" - I forget what the proper term is.. so I go 2 S.S. cap screws and 5/16 nut.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_5021.jpg)
Secured with Blue Loctite.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_5022.jpg)
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Re-installed the TC loop plumbing,
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_5024.jpg)
Installed the main battery cable junction to the secondary feed.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_5025.jpg)
Spliced this into the main junction for the battery junction.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_5026.jpg)
installed the starter motor battery cable, went to China-Mart for some replacement wire for the burned ground in the instrument cluster.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_5027.jpg)
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VERY EASY START last night.... but...
Let me jump to the punch-line. I did my first full start with GP last night. It started right up after I closed the last injector line and torched the GP. It sounded strong idling, but as soon as I gave it throttle, it hesitated and stalled. There were a few air bubbles in the fuel lines, so I hope that is it. Otherwise I'm thinking the governor in the IP is stuck from sitting too long. I'll run it a lot longer tomorrow to see if that fixes it. Here's the video. The rest of the story after the video.
http://s533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/?action=view¤t=100_5036.flv
First thing I did last night was fix the burned wires in my instrument pod from the shorted Chinese toggle switch (it was illuminated and shorted internally the ground to the feed power). I also verified that my wires were to the correct ground and source.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_5030.jpg)
The new toggle.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_5031.jpg)
Next I protected the main power junctions.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_5029.jpg)
Liquid tape is good for keeping water out, but I once had a main battery cable short to ground. With no fuse, things get very hot very fast... so, first plastic shields,
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_5032.jpg)
Then rubber
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_5033.jpg)
So, after start and run, I found the turbo return oil line was leaking a little.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_5037.jpg)
Yep, the only hose I did not replace. I might just put the turbo pan on the engine tomorrow and eliminate this setup.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_5038.jpg)
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I did my first full start with GP last night. It started right up after I closed the last injector line and torched the GP. It sounded strong idling, but as soon as I gave it throttle, it hesitated and stalled. There were a few air bubbles in the fuel lines, so I hope that is it. Otherwise I'm thinking the governor in the IP is stuck from sitting too long. I'll run it a lot longer tomorrow to see if that fixes it. Here's the video.
Ideas ?
http://s533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/?action=view¤t=100_5036.flv
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It was air in the IP... I turned on my aux electric fuel pump, and it cleared the bubbles and I got throttle response. Not quite full above half throttle, but sounding very good with or without the aux pump. I noticed 2 more things. No boost showing on the gauge. The turbo could clearly be heard spooling with reving the engine to maybe 2200 rpm, but that's it. No black smoke with full throttle. Maybe because there was no load. Also, on of the old injector to injector return lines is leaking. I will replace this and the other one I have not yet. Fix the turbo return leak, and retorque my HG. I ran it for about 50 minutes, so I think it got hot enough.
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It was air in the IP... I turned on my aux electric fuel pump, and it cleared the bubbles and I got throttle response. Not quite full above half throttle, but sounding very good with or without the aux pump. I noticed 2 more things. No boost showing on the gauge. The turbo could clearly be heard spooling with reving the engine to maybe 2200 rpm, but that's it. No black smoke with full throttle. Maybe because there was no load. Also, on of the old injector to injector return lines is leaking. I will replace this and the other one I have not yet. Fix the turbo return leak, and retorque my HG. I ran it for about 50 minutes, so I think it got hot enough.
it's really really hard to build or show boost by free reving...you need a load.
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She Runs !!!!! Here's the punch line.. my patient wife recorded the first move under diesel power !! I have a VW DIESEL Daily Driver !
http://s533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/?action=view¤t=100_5052.flv
Here's the steps to get there. I ran the car for almost an hour. Still didn't have good power, but it got to operating temp. Then I retorqued the head bolts. (Didn't want to wait for studs - should have known it was not going to be my daily driver back in August ;-)
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_5039.jpg)
I noticed the fuel return line I used was swelling. There were no markings on the hose, so it must not have been fuel rated.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_5040.jpg)
Fuel rated hose with clamps now..
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_5043.jpg)
This lead me to see I forgot to close the line on the intake - so some boost would have been leaking here..
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_5041.jpg)
Hope this holds. It's small enough..
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_5042.jpg)
Next I sealed the radiator over-flow to the stock Chrysler recovery tank.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_5045.jpg)
Next I mounted the a/c compressor aluminum mounting cradle and tried to mound the compressor.. No dice, the Chrysler location was further from the fan so I had to bend the metal lines on the compressor and the condenser.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_5044.jpg)
Good old plumping tools. Hopefully this summer the a/c will still work. I'm leaving the belt off for now as I don't need a/c yet. The compressor mounted with 1 cm of clearance.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_5046.jpg)
Next the leaking turbo return line / vac pump vent. I had used the stock VW hose and stretched it over the brass 9/16 barbed fitting. It cracked and was leaking. So, I took two pieces of 1/2" copper water line, cut it up the middle and rolled it to fix into the end and side fitting. I then soldered them in place and along the seam. This allowed new hose to the vac pump and the return fitting on the side of the block. I noticed some oil blowing by my turbo seals when I removed the I.C. loop. I think I'll install the stock turbo oil pan / return line now that I have one.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_5047.jpg)
On to the exhaust. I clamped the flex joint to the down pipe. Next I needed about a 30 degree elbow. I did not have one, so I took a stock 90 degree and cut it, then cut the end 2 inches into 8 tabs. I spread these over the S.S. tube that would run to the muffler and back. My wife wanted our photos welding this with the TIG.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_5049.jpg)
He was going to try welding for the first time, but not for this thin walled stuff.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_5050.jpg)
Here's the joint, now coated with ceramic paint.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_5051.jpg)
Next I mounted the muffler and ran the S.S. back to the stock pipe that went over the axle. I had to relocate it to the center of the car, for now. And, as I drive in to work today (40 miles each way) it was not supported rear of the muffler, but nothing was dragging or making noise.
After this, I installed the remaining CV mounting cap screws and torqued them all. Next the axle nut retaining cap & cotter pin. Installed a few missing lug nuts from the front, and filled the tires to 36 psi. We went for a drive. After 4 miles or so, the engine developed great power ! We stopped at Sunoco to put the other 10 gallons into the tank to dilute the 10 gallons of old fuel (maybe a year old). Made a big difference. Now I have very little throttle to maintain 65 - 70 mph. At 70 I have 5 psi boost. 65 = 4 psi, 60 = 3 psi... I have not really gotten on it yet, but it feels like pulling the pop-up camper will be very doable. This morning I put a tie rap over the speedo sender so I don't loose it on the freeway.
Things yet to do -
Install hood.
bolt the speedo sender on / wire it.
Find the starter solenoid feed wire on the Chrysler side. We could not Sunday, so I spliced it to my aux fuel pump for now.
Find out why the GP relay is not working even with my pimped system. It was used, so it could be bad. For today I use a TIG welding rod to hot wire the GP junction to the battery. It starts right up, first time, even cold.
Attach the instrument cluster to the dash.
Measure mpg. On the way to work, the gauge didn't move... :-)
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Congrats man.. a long journey, and I know I speak for all of us when I thank you for documenting it along the way... we've all learned a ton!!
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Thanks !!! I had forgotten about that. You remind me. My temp gauge is at room temp, showing past 250 degrees. When it warms up, it moves, but hits the stop peg. I think I'll just pull the bezel and reset it.
Also, my Chrysler linkage makes the shift pattern up side down. So R is lower left side and 5 OD is lower right side.... I can live with that. Its a little tricky finding 1st gear rather than trying to start in 3rd - hard on the clutch ;-)
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The hood got installed last night, and I jumper the alternator exciter line to the aux fuel pump feed. Now I don't have to charge the battery each night.
I had a fuel delivery problem on the way to work, or so it seams. After driving about 30 minutes at 70 mph, we hit stop & go traffic on the freeway. Typical Detroit City congestion. After a few minutes of that, I could hear the aux fuel pump hammering. This usually means its pumping air. Next, I was loosing power. I had to stop under a bridge because it stalled - rain showers. No air in the lines... Cycled the aux pump, it stopped hammering and went to normal. Hummmm. The car started right up on the first revolution. Hummm. It ran for a few miles and repeated. I exited the freeway - in the hood now. The cycle of fuel starvation / pause repeated for 8 miles until I got to work.
I'm thinking I got some water in my fuel from one of the fill-ups. I'll drain the water separator when its time to go home... maybe a new filter is needed too.
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Check your fuel tank filler cap so it´s "breathing" so you don´t end up having vaacum in your fuel tank.
My GMC diesel went nuts when the breather hole was covered up. The truck stalled and as soon as I let it idle for a while I could drive it like normal a couple of miles again and then it just stalled again, over and over. I unscrewed the filler cap and there was a huge vaacum buildup in the fueltank.
Just a thought. Great project btw :D
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Check your fuel tank filler cap so it´s "breathing" so you don´t end up having vaacum in your fuel tank.
My GMC diesel went nuts when the breather hole was covered up. The truck stalled and as soon as I let it idle for a while I could drive it like normal a couple of miles again and then it just stalled again, over and over. I unscrewed the filler cap and there was a huge vaacum buildup in the fueltank.
Just a thought. Great project btw :D
Still having fueling problems. On the way home last night - same thing. It ran great until 5 minutes into stop and go. I stopped and check the cap - no vacuum. It is a vented cap, and not plugged. Again, air bubbles in the line from the aux fuel pump to the fuel filter. I cracked the breather on the filter and the air came out. The rest of the drive was normal with the aux pump on.
This morning, the stop and go started much sooner. Again, aux fuel pump on for trip and it started making noise due to air. Stopped. waited a few, checked oil as the dip stick was loose so there was some oil spray. Ran the aux pump for 10 seconds - cleared the air. I was able to drive until the end of the trip where more stop & go... this time I had the aux pump off the entire rest of the trip. No change. Still had fueling problems.
Since I ran 100% new fuel lines / hoses to the bottom of the tank, I'm thinking the old aux fuel pump might be the problem. I'll by-pass it tonight to see if that's the problem.
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Great news and not so great...
First, I solved the fueling problem. Before I left work yesterday, I removed my aux fuel pump from the circuit. I simply disconnected the fuel line supply and connect the fuel filter in line to it. No problems. So, either the electric pump has an intermittent air leak, or it has some restriction.
Second great news, I'm at 260 miles and my fuel gauge is just coming off full. I verified the 20 gallon tank shows exactly half tank when it is at 10 gallons. So, fantastic mpg.
Bad news, I have developed some intermittent oil leak near the oil cooler. This location is apparent from the spray pattern. It started yesterday on the way to work. I thought it was the oil pressure gauge line where it connects to the filter casting. I tightened that, but the leak came back on my way to work today, requiring a painful purchase of 3 Q dyno oil at a gas station for $8... they had Mobil - 1 but the $9 per quart was not possible today.
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Problem solved. I did not have an oil leak. I have not fabricated a proper breather / oil separator yet, so I have a 1 m long hose coming off the valve cover vent, going to the highest point in the engine bay, and then down behind the rear of an inner-fender. I had same synthetic batting in the base of it to collect the oil spray. It worked at first, but when I thought I was leaking oil, the batting had become a wad and plugged the vent, pressurizing my crank case and spitting all the oil out the dip stick. It was not ejecting the dip stick like some have seen. So, this weekend I'll make the proper part and switch back to full synthetic.
Mileage seams very high. I am at 335 miles and still above 3/4 tank. I'll take a road trip this weekend and measure it accurately.
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yeah keep us posted I am always curious about gas mileage on vw vans.
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The end cap of my return lines sprung a leak. As a temporary fix,, I used this vac hose. I not have some 3/16" fuel/oil rated hose, but I didn't when I did this fix last week. I'll replace all the return lines with the fuel hose.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_5054.jpg)
Here's the aux pump, not used now, with the breather hose above this. I'll be making an oil separator to put in line with this.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_5055.jpg)
Here's the aluminum I'm going to use to make the separator.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_5056.jpg)
Here's the aluminum tube that the in / out lines will use.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_5057.jpg)
MPG - I topped off the take. It looks like my mileage is in the 40 mpg range driving 65 - 75 mph, and a little city and construction zone driving. Didn't do the long trip this weekend.
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I have developed a slight problem. At idle, by alternator sets up a resonance that has loosened the belt so it will squeal for a few seconds after startup, especially if the lights are on.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4920.jpg)
I'm thinking of cross bracing it to the mounting holes on the back side of the block near the crank.
Good news, for the first few days, I had while smoke at start-up and also for heavy loads. This is no longer the case. Even first start in the cold mornings does not produce any smoke. Heavy load - about 9.5 psi is the best I have done, does not produce any smoke. The turbo is really doing a good job of packing more O2 into the cylinders thus burning more of the injected fuel :-)
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Here's my first update since the upgrade to the forum ::)
We made a custom exhaust system at my brother's garage (he swings wrench for a living) and has a full hydraulic exhaust bending / forming machine. He is at work:
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_5058.jpg)
I needed from the muffler back. I was using the stock 1 3/4 from the dodge, but wanted 2" all the way.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_5059.jpg)
Getting over the axel and next to the "frame"
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_5061.jpg)
We also installed a class II used hitch I had. It was a bit thin on parts of the side plates, so we used part of a 2008 F-350 dually frame to beef it up a bit. I now have a VW-Dodge-Chevy-Ford as my daily driver.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_5068.jpg)
Here's the clearance for my flex joint.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_5063.jpg)
We also made the front antitorque engine mount. Much easier on a hoist,
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_5064.jpg)
Now I will feel good about towing a pop-up camper ;-)
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_5065.jpg)
NEWS FLASH !!
After 2.5 weeks of daily driving 70 miles a day, I had the hose at the end of my head blow off. This was not immediately discovered as I was on the expressway in a not very friendly part of Detroit. Remember my coolant temp gauge needs the needle relocated?. Anyway, I stopped at the next exit at a gas station. The engine was rather HOT. I took 40 minutes to cool it down slowly and add water, bought 3 empty 2L soda bottles (we have a return law in Michigan) to fill with water. Starting was hard at this point. It acted like I had cooked 3 of the glow plugs. It started eventually, and ran OK with a little smoke. I drive 4 miles to the next station, this time there was much more coolant in the engine, but repeated this process over and over until I got home. Man, I hoped I had not crack my head.
I started the car at home and noticed there is exhaust blowing into the cooling system, (Photos to follow tomorrow) so I pulled the head. The head gasket was clearly blown between the #1 #2 cylinders and the coolant jacket. No cracks that I can see. Would there likely be any under the pre-combustion chamber cups ??? I checked it for warpage - about .0035" of an inch, end to end, with the middle being .0035" higher (concave). The Bentley says .004" is acceptable. So, using a very thick piece of tempered glass, checked for flatness, I glued 2 sheets of fine sand paper (150 grid) to the glass and took down the warpage to about .0005 - .0015 by sliding the head on the glass. I only glued around the perimeter of the 2 sheets so there would be no high spots. It looks really good now. I cleaned the block's deck last night. Hoping to get the manifolds on the head tonight and at least have it sitting in the car.
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Here's what my head looks like now that I shaved it low-tech way.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_5097.jpg)
And the deck after cleaning:
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_5098.jpg)
Any thoughts ? Notice the vertical scorch marks in the bores. You can not feel them, so I guess it was just hot carbon. I'm hoping to attach the manifolds tonight and attach the head tonight / tomorrow, thunder storm permitting.
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looking good arb. i think you'll be okay with a new HG. the metal HG would be nice, but not 100% sure that it will seal properly in your situation.
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Thanks. I was surprised at the couple of slightly high spots on the deck that my flat file took down around 3 - 4 on the back side.
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Here's what my head looks like now that I shaved it low-tech way.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_5097.jpg)
And the deck after cleaning:
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_5098.jpg)
Any thoughts ? Notice the vertical scorch marks in the bores. You can not feel them, so I guess it was just hot carbon. I'm hoping to attach the manifolds tonight and attach the head tonight / tomorrow, thunder storm permitting.
HOLY OMG... those are some REALLY STEEP cv joint angles. ^ ^ ^ do they click at all?
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with all the weight off the front end, yes, it is execssive. Its not too bad with the weight on it, although this engine is quite a bit lighter than the 2.5L I took out. So, I could stand to cut a few inches off the springs.
No clicking or other sounds. They actually have quite a bit more travel..
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Here's what my head looks like now that I shaved it low-tech way.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_5097.jpg)
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did it blow between 1 and 2?? looks like exhaust was making the bridge between the two???
I like to use scotch brite and carb cleaner to scrub the head and block with out making it untrue....cleans up real nice usually.
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Here's what my head looks like now that I shaved it low-tech way.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_5097.jpg)
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did it blow between 1 and 2?? looks like exhaust was making the bridge between the two???
I like to use scotch brite and carb cleaner to scrub the head and block with out making it untrue....cleans up real nice usually.
Yes, there was significant HG material stuck to the head and deck between 1 - 2. It was really burned to the deck, and to a lesser degree the head. Great idea for the carb clearner & Schotch brite. I too like to see nearly virgin (its appearance, and in all things) metal when I am sealing it up.
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A closer look, yes, I need to clean this before assembly.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_5110.jpg)
Scotch-brite and carb cleaner ;-) Much better.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_5112.jpg)
Also, I had to hit the deck and top of the bores with schotch-brite as there was a little surface rust from the Michigan humidity.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_5113.jpg)
I chased the 12mm treads in the block.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_5115.jpg)
Ready for assembly.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_5116.jpg)
I assembled the head next, installing the manifolds / turbo assembly. I looked at the turbo drain flange and decided not to tackle that now as it is significantly larger than what my turbo has... Next, my wife helped me install the head assembly. Its quite heavy with the turbo hanging off the back ;-) But this was still much easier than fighting the manifold bolts from the top of the engine bay. Got the head on and realized I forgot to install the tensioner pulley first !! Man, no way I was pulling the head for that, so I backed the stud out with a 6" pipe wrench I have (Handy little thing) and installed it that way.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_5117.jpg)
Now I am setting the timing. It has changed not that the head is shaved .0025" - I noticed the difference between the cam and IP sprockets was almost half a tooth.
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I set my timing last night. The IP was dead on, and the cam sprocket adjusted its half a tooth. I love that tapered system. Next I put the top cover back over the timing belt and realized I was out of Lock-tite Red.... So I when shopping. Tonight I can get back to assembly with the Red sauce. I don't like to assemble anything on an engine w/o lock-tite unless I have to. Especially our lovely king sized vibrator box.
Oh yeah, I noticed my BOV clamp was very very loose. I wonder if I'll get more than 10 psi now ;-)
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heh heh! Nicely documented Arb!
I tend to find 500 grit wet dry, solvent and a razor blade made easy work of gasket material and burnt on carbon.
I've never had my head off since i did the switch to the AAZ head and metal head gasket. I wonder what it will look like inside?
I too should chase my block threads. My studs did not go in all the way *evenly - so some did*
I plan on taking my head off again soon when i intercool. That way i can drill and tap a nipple on my ALH intake for the LDA to get boost from. right now i have a fitting JB welded into a rubber hose :P
And of course make everything spick and span like you have done such a wonderful job doing.
I cant believe it surface rusted that much so quickly!
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Nice IP locking tool!!!
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Love your unique build thread and I check every once in a while to see what new event has happened. I see where you checked the surface on your head and performed your own "surface modification." My question is what do you have at home that allows you to check the surface for "trueness"? I like your glass/sandpaper "manual" plane/lathe. I do not believe that I have anything at home that could be used as a straight-edge, but if there is, I am sure you can tell me. Thanks.
ken
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Love your unique build thread and I check every once in a while to see what new event has happened. I see where you checked the surface on your head and performed your own "surface modification." My question is what do you have at home that allows you to check the surface for "trueness"? I like your glass/sandpaper "manual" plane/lathe. I do not believe that I have anything at home that could be used as a straight-edge, but if there is, I am sure you can tell me. Thanks.
ken
Thanks for the support guys... been out of commission this week. First, my best friend's Mom died in her sleep suddenly and without warning early Sunday morning. - She was born in 1941, so not very old for such a surprise. Then, I got an upper respiratory infection, like the flu, but not quite. Swine or Bird anyone ? LOL... So, I slept a lot the past few days. Feel great now and look forward to starting the diesel this weekend. I did get a new thermostat just in case that was the root cause for the hose blowing off. I'll do that before I fill it with coolant again. Too bad I used that expensive $12 / gallon stuff that goes 5 years. This time, it will be used (by me) coolant until I'm satisfied. Then I'll do a proper flush and the expensive stuff.
I have a straight edge. Its a little longer than the head. It is 4130 steel for building aircraft structural stuff and is 1/8" thick. (I'm starting my second experimental project now.) I verified it was straight with sight and the 9/16" flat tempered glass I used to resurface the head.
Just before over heating, I noticed I could exceed the clutch disc friction in 2 - 3 with full throttle and boost. I'm debating doing the clutch tomorrow too. I know I should have done this when the engine was on the floor of my garage, but I didn't have the cash then.
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amazing work sir, cant wait to hear confirmation of its runnability... :)
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Nice IP locking tool!!!
X2
i've lost my pin so many times, its amazing what'll go in there to make it work. ;D
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LOL !! Thanks, I never had a proper pin because the tap worked great. I did buy a proper cam lock ;-)
We've had tornado weather there the past couple of days and I still had a bit of the flu, so I have not done much. Today is my birthday, so my wife and son have other ideas on what I will be doing tonight... Hope to be making smoke this week :-) Here's what I did this weekend. The root cause was either a bad thermostat (Got a new 195 degree turbo to install) or the hose that blew off the end of the head because it was the only line I did not put a ridge on. I welded one on so this would not repeat:
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_5120.jpg)
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Got everything reconnected last night. The exhaust was a small challenge:
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_5123.jpg)
Can't forget the oil supply for the turbo
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_5122.jpg)
Notice the hump from the flange I welded.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_5121.jpg)
Now, when I cranked it over to bleed the injector lines, there was steady burping of gas into the cooling system. Humm, not what I wanted to see. When the lines were primed and secured, the engine started right up. The burping continues, but there seems to be no difference between the volume of gases from cranking to revving the engine. I would have expected that if there was a crack behind a pre-chamber that the gasses would be much more with revving.. Here's a video. Tonight I'll do the final 90 degrees on the head bolts and pray the head gasket was just not sealed yet.... I did notice this head gasket, even though its made in Germany, was a little larger than the others I've used = it sticks out a little further from the head, and I can even see some of the sealing ring for the oil return hump.
http://s533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/?action=view¤t=100_5124.flv (http://s533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/?action=view¤t=100_5124.flv)
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We had big rain storms last night. Almost half an inch of rain fell. Wish the guys in Australia would have been so lucky... Hope to retorq the head tonight and see if the thing seals. If not, I might try bar's leak before pulling the head again.
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We had big rain storms last night. Almost half an inch of rain fell. Wish the guys in Australia would have been so lucky... Hope to retorq the head tonight and see if the thing seals. If not, I might try bar's leak before pulling the head again.
:-X
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We had big rain storms last night. Almost half an inch of rain fell. Wish the guys in Australia would have been so lucky... Hope to retorq the head tonight and see if the thing seals. If not, I might try bar's leak before pulling the head again.
:-X
As suspected, the final re-torq did nothing to the HG leak. No Bar's Leak. I want it fixed correctly. S&G Imports said they will warranty the parts.
OFF WITH THE HEAD !!
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We had big rain storms last night. Almost half an inch of rain fell. Wish the guys in Australia would have been so lucky... Hope to retorq the head tonight and see if the thing seals. If not, I might try bar's leak before pulling the head again.
:-X
As suspected, the final re-torq did nothing to the HG leak. No Bar's Leak. I want it fixed correctly. S&G Imports said they will warranty the parts.
OFF WITH THE HEAD !!
bummer about the HG!!
glad you decided against the bars leak! ;D
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yea that bars stuff is what those shady used car lots use :o
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OK, today I got a new HG and bolts from Parts Place Inc. They had about $3.00 higher price than S&G, but they were the only place in Metro Detroit with the parts on the shelf...
so, I disconnected almost all the hoses and lines. I drained the coolant. I have yet to remove the timing belt from the head and pull the 10 head bolts and TC oil line. I would have had this done today, but my lovely Ukrainian wife wanted me to take her flying. It has been 89 days since I did this and she understands our FAA rules about 90 days - 3 Take offs and landings for a pilot to remain current to take passengers with them :-O
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I have my German made HG now...
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_5134.jpg)
I thought I had cleaned the deck, but notice the left over gasket material between 1 - 2 on the back side -
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_5130.jpg)
Here is the block ready to accept the head again. I polished it with green scotch-bite, cleaned out the dust, then degreased it with trichlor brake cleaner. The verticle scortch lines are not as strong now, but you can still see them.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_5137.jpg)
I was not going to pull the manifolds this time, but I have decided to pull them and polish the head surface again.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_5131.jpg)
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Hi Arb, is your aluminum coolant flange a custom part? If not, where can I get one? I don't like the plastic ones.
Good luck with the HG!
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Hi Arb, is your aluminum coolant flange a custom part? If not, where can I get one? I don't like the plastic ones.
Good luck with the HG!
It started out as a stock part - every IDI vw I've touched had the aluminum. I did some custom welding to move the pipe to one side, and a fitting for my temp sender (mechanical). You shoud be able to find one :-)
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I use bar's leaks in my car.
My AAZ gasket was seeping some after I put it in, even at 85 ft/lb. I did not feel like going tighter with an 11mm block, so I put bar's leaks in...worked great.
FWIW, it's apparently in every aluminum gm engine...
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i've used the stuff, haven't seen or had a problem yet with it..
why do people swear against it?
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I have used it too. The only problems I have had is getting rid of it when you want to fix it for real and it will plug up some heater cores/radiators if they have some gunk in them already.
I use pepper more often if I have to use something to get home.
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i used it to fix a small leak with my heater core.. in winter it would fog my windows something fierce.. fixed it right up. and it said it helps lubricate the water pump.. Never do wrong with more lube I always say :)
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I've used Bar's leak on some old tired cars. Always worked, so I considered it here. Glad I pulled the head. I found a couple of deep scratches on the head at the point where the metal ring in the HG seals the combustion chamber. They got there when my son and I put the head on the studs with the manifolds still attached. Very heavy that way and its a long reach on a caravan. You can see them to the right of the cup.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_5140.jpg)
So, I setup my resurfacing glass / sand paper and polished off the scratches.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_5145.jpg)
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_5146.jpg)
This time I installed the head w/o manifolds so my hands would protect the head from the studs. Worked great. It will just be harder to install the manifolds. I then installed the timing belt, and injector lines. This HG looks correct - it does not stick out too far like the one that did not seal.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_5148.jpg)
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incremental work reassembling the engine. Manually cranked it to partially clear the injection lines and to be sure I didn't screw-up the valves. Sounded good! No unusual noises like last time. Life is good. Started to bold the turbo back on. Cleaned the manifold surfaces, bolted the "T" bracket back on the block - this is the support I made for my turbo. Its at the bottom of the bock, so its a real reach from over the top. The half shaft blocks the one bolt from socket access, so hand wrenching.
Maybe more tonight... but rain is in the mix now.
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After the all day rain stopped, I got the turbo support bracket installed.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_5149.jpg)
Next, the exhaust manifold. The bolt below started as the hardest to install - I reached under the manifold from the far right side. Long and difficult reach. Then I noticed, there is a space from the top to get at it. notice my EGT plug is out - This allows for socket wrench access to an intake bolt. I must remember to put it back ;-)
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_5151.jpg)
Next, the turbo support... I had forgotten this bolt with my failed HG change.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_5152.jpg)
Got the turbo oil supply and return lines installed, the intake manifold, boost gauge feed, and the hose on the end of the head that blew off.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_5154.jpg)
I might have to pull the fuel filter supply line and cut off a bit - it got folded over during the manifold work. Notice how it was pinched a bit.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_5155.jpg)
Next I R&R the thermostat, fill the system and crank it over to see if the leak it fixed !!
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is the fuel supply line the oe one. after having a couple of fights with that pita, I just use a regular viton fuel line. seems like once they come off the barbs, the ends are useless, requiring cutting or a clamp. kept pinching it trying to get it on, cut it, pinched it, cut it; and then it was too short. bought two at 16 bucks in one day. the next time i needed one, in went the viton. I know folks say you want a clear line there, but my pump is strong, no need to worry about that. :P
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is the fuel supply line the oe one. after having a couple of fights with that pita, I just use a regular viton fuel line. seems like once they come off the barbs, the ends are useless, requiring cutting or a clamp. kept pinching it trying to get it on, cut it, pinched it, cut it; and then it was too short. bought two at 16 bucks in one day. the next time i needed one, in went the viton. I know folks say you want a clear line there, but my pump is strong, no need to worry about that. :P
Yes, both are OE and new last fall when I put them in. I like seeing the clear and until I mashed it over, had no problems with it. We'll see how it looks this weekend, I might try cutting off a bit.
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I believe OE is nylon. If you are going to cut it, you will need to heat both the line and the fitting. Boiling hot water is not hot enough to soften nylon. You will need a heat gun. Reason you need to heat the fitting is so it does not cool the softened nylon as it go on the fitting. Make sure you have enough slack to play with (so it won't become too short) because you may ruin the first one you do.
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Oh and don't cut the nylon off the barb with a razor because it will be nicked and won't seal afterwards! Use a heat gun to soften it real well and pull it off the barb, then cut.
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Oh and don't cut the nylon off the barb with a razor because it will be nicked and won't seal afterwards! Use a heat gun to soften it real well and pull it off the barb, then cut.
Thank you. That is good advice on something I had not thought about.
Last night was snow-ball night. I was going to replace the thermostat before my start & retorq... but the alternator was blocking the bolts, so I removed it. I then noticed the anti-torq bracket / mount for the alternator / AC compressor was parially blocking the flange. No problem I though, I'd use a cut-off wheel to make the clearance. So I started to remove the bolts on the flange. The rear was first - SNAP !!!! It must have been over torq'ed because it snapped with a 6" wrench and normal force. Man, I do have a new water pump with the newer design bearing vent, but that a lot more work... Then I noticed the water pump seal had just began to seep. Notice the coolant at the edge of the photo? Its from the vent. So, the compressor and mount came off.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/102_5158.jpg)
I removed the thermostat flange from the new pump. I guess this was a blessing in discuise. I could have been on a road trip and lost coolant through the seal. Now I'll have the confidence of a new pump and thermostat, although a 195 degree one call for with a turbo.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/102_5159_1.jpg)
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Saturday started with a huge storm in the middle of Friday night. We woke up to no power. Detroit Edison had no estimate on the repairs because so many people had no power. Guess what my next project is ? Hooking up the 7.5 kw diesel generator I have sitting in the garage !!! This is the 3rd time in 18 months we have been w/o power for an extended period of time. I didn't want to work in the dark and w/o my air tools. So, Father's day was for the assembly of my engine. Started with installation of a new O-ring for the water pump housing to engine block. The one they sold me looks just like the one for the thermostat. I had to use some Permatex to get it to stay in the groove as the o-ring was about 5 mm larger than the groove. Then I clamped it for a few hours:
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/102_5163.jpg)
All was good. I used this time to open up the access to one of the mount's bolts. Here you can see the corner blocks access to the top bolt.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/102_5166.jpg)
So I cut it off and painted it.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/102_5168.jpg)
Next I needed a bolt to hold the lower timing belt cover to the water pump. The stock "T" bolt was rusted pretty good into the old housing, so I used a 1/4" x 20 stainless steel bolt and ground off one side of the head.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/102_5165.jpg)
Then I mounted the pump ! All was great - the o-ring stayed in place, the bolts were getting into their spots, then, the lower bolt that goes through the alternator bracket through the water pump snapped !! I was only using a 6" ratchet on it, and not appling a big torq. Must be it had a crack in it already. Many, I really didn't want to pull the pump again. But, the bolt is what keeps the o-ring clamped and takes loads from the alternator. Notice the fracture - half was a different event.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/102_5170.jpg)
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This is the most INSANE project i've ever seen or possibly ever even heard of.
Nice work and good job on not turfing the whole thing :P I hope your van gets ludacrous mileage.
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This is the most INSANE project i've ever seen or possibly ever even heard of.
Nice work and good job on not turfing the whole thing :P I hope your van gets ludacrous mileage.
yea i agree. Arb is very determined man! and from the looks of it, will be of great usefulness in the coming years after the US economy collapses. during which taking a trip up to Canada might be a good idea ;D
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Thanks guys !! Yes, having a true multi-fuel car that gets great mileage and has not bank payment is a wonderful thing ;-) Yes, I plan on more trips into the Canadian north :-)
This morning I started to drive it to work again !! No leaks in the HG, but the IP timing was off. I think my IP locking pin was leaning up by one tooth when I installed the belt. I'll retime it tonight. Here's what I did last night to finish the HG job. First I had to remove the stamped bolt from the water pump - an easy-out did the job. The bolt had a step right in the middle so I could not get the drill to stay centers, so my dremel was used to get the drill started. Next, I had to find a replacement 8m 1.25 bolt. I needed about 60 mm but a 70 mm was the closest I could get. I had to cut / grind it to the next length.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/102_5171.jpg)
Next, I drilled the 3 mounting holes a little larger for the alternator / anti-torque mount to the side of the block. Made it much easier to install this time.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/102_5172.jpg)
Then I connected all the hoses / wires and installed the a/c compressor. The car started a bit hard and there was some smoke - never had any at idle after it was warm. I also noticed I could get 4 psi booth with just revving the engine. Thought it was timing but thought I would be sure driving down the road this morning. I did run the engine for a while last night to bring it to temp, then I did the final 90 degree torque on the head bolts. One thing that broke when I was trying to start the engine was the momentary contact switch I have for my pimped GP - the lever snapped off. This morning I simply connected the 2 spade connections onto each other. I feed the switch with a separate lighted switch so its fail safe. This worked this morning.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/102_5175.jpg)
Here is the video of the idle. Did not sound too bad, but not too good either.
http://s533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/?action=view¤t=102_5174.flv
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Is there still smoke/steam coming out of the radiator?
No smoke, bubbles, gas coming from inside the radiator. That was part of the reason for the video, but you can't see the surface of the fluid. After I stopped this morning after driving a few miles, I noticed a little - _little_ steam coming from the front of the radiator. I assumed this was from the coolant I spilled on it when filling and not a leak. This is a new aluminum radiator.
My leak was the HG not sealing. My vendor refunded the bolts and HG as it was mis-packaged. He thinks it was from a hydro head but was sure it was not for my 83' mechanical so the sealing line showing from the front of the head was because of this.
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The idle just sounds fast to me? maybe its just the quality of the video...
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The idle just sounds fast to me? maybe its just the quality of the video...
Very perceptive !! It would not idle at all, so there was a 2L Coke bottle sitting on the throttle peddle holding it to about 1400 rpm.
Last night I pulled the covers and retimed it again. As suspected, the IP pulley was 1 tooth off on the belt. I made about a 1/4 tooth adjustment to the cam pulley too. WOW !! She runs better than before the melt-down. I drove it to work today w/o issue. Felt strong. Tonight after work I will try to tow our pop-up camper with it. I am not worried about the engine, but the clutch might not be up to the job....
http://s533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/?action=view¤t=102_5177.flv
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Whoo-hoo !!!!! ;D ;D ;D
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be sure to keep an eye on coolant temps or add one of those products to keep temps stabilized while towing. 8)
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(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_5155.jpg)
I hope you don't plan on leaving that POS Fram filter on there...
Tsk, Tsk, Tsk... (http://media.firevortex.net/icons/custom/green/fv-green-bat.gif)
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The only fuel filter Autozone could get me didn't have the integrated water separator. Murray's Discount Auto could get me this Fram with the separator... What brand do you use? Does it have a separator?
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the fram filters aren't that bad... its just the oil filters you gotta be worried about... as they will bypass the filter at high pressure.
a CAT 1 micron fuel filter would be an excellent choice, and i think you could modify a flange to make it fit rather than spend the $200+ for it :o but its not required.
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the fram filters aren't that bad... its just the oil filters you gotta be worried about... as they will bypass the filter at high pressure.
That's what I thought - I don't use their oil filters, but fuel I thought they did OK.
A CAT 1 ? I'll have to look at that.
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napa fuel filters have the water separator.
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napa fuel filters have the water separator.
Thanks. I'll be sure get one of theirs in the fall. They are just across the street from the other shops.
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the fram filters aren't that bad... its just the oil filters you gotta be worried about... as they will bypass the filter at high pressure.
That's what I thought - I don't use their oil filters, but fuel I thought they did OK.
A CAT 1 ? I'll have to look at that.
a lot of guys at TDIclub praise the CAT filters :)
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The diesel caravan is running strong and sounding good. Last night the engine developed a slight low speed sound almost like a scrapping. When I looked under the hood, the forward mount for the TB cover had slipped off the grommet - I must have missed the washer that prevents this. I'll post photos later.
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23.6 mpg pulling this camper, 2 kayaks, a canoe, and 620 pounds of people 65 - 75 mph !!!
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/IMGP0157-1.jpg)
Wow. This was the true stress test. The 1.6 was enough for the job and performed well. Lucky for us, there was no stop and go construction traffic as I still don't have the radiator fan connected.
Here is the cover bolt that slipped through.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/102_5179.jpg)
And the repair.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/102_5183.jpg)
My brother did a quick front end alignment Friday just before the trip. He plays that rack like a master violinists. I had 1.86 degrees of toe out. Not too bad for only having a tape measure to do the alignment after I put the new manual rack & pinion in. Now I have exactly 0.00 toe. He thinks its worth 4 mpg. Feels like it driving it. Very smooth and stable on rough roads. The diesel machine took us on an awesome trip.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/IMGP0074.jpg)
On the way back, I noticed a slight vibration in the left front end between 55 and 59 mph. It was only pulling the trailer, and would come and go with side loads on the car (steep turns). Could be an exhaust pipe vibrating in resonance against a support. It was not there today on my drive to work. I have new wheel bearing / hub assemblies for the front. This will let me use my 15" wheels (aluminum rims) rather than the 14" steel you see.
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I now have 5th gear (OD) !!!
For some reason I have been unable to shift into 5th gear. I thought maybe my linkage as not correct, but I tried again last night, and it goes smoothly into 5th ! When I first drove it, I could not get 1 -2 to work, so I started in 3rd. I guess they oil just needed to get warmed up and flow everywhere. I'll be doing a gear lube change now. It will also help my mpg to have OD. :-)
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Quote: "My brother did a quick front end alignment Friday just before the trip. He plays that rack like a master violinists. I had 1.86 degrees of toe out. Not too bad for only having a tape measure to do the alignment after I put the new manual rack & pinion in. Now I have exactly 0.00 toe. He thinks its worth 4 mpg. Feels like it driving it. Very smooth and stable on rough roads."
For the vehicle, what is the spec for toe out, or should that be toe-in?
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Quote: "My brother did a quick front end alignment Friday just before the trip. He plays that rack like a master violinists. I had 1.86 degrees of toe out. Not too bad for only having a tape measure to do the alignment after I put the new manual rack & pinion in. Now I have exactly 0.00 toe. He thinks its worth 4 mpg. Feels like it driving it. Very smooth and stable on rough roads."
For the vehicle, what is the spec for toe out, or should that be toe-in?
The rack he uses is a new Hunter HawkEye that does 4 wheels with simple reflectors on the wheels. The center of the spec for this car is 0.00 toe, so that's what he did.
http://www.hunter.com/pub/product/alignmentsystems/index.htm
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Thursday I came into a parking lot rather hot and the alternator bracket scraped the ramp. I've driving into this store front lot many other times, but at normal speed. The noise was heart wrenching and the squeal of the belt after startup showed me I bent it. Here's what it was...
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_4920.jpg)
I have intended to built a bracket to protect the alternator from road rash, but making the mounting brackets to the "K" frame and radiator support has not inspired me yet... so I modified the alternator tightening bracket - made it shorter.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/110_5184.jpg)
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I started to upgrade my 14" wheels in the front to 15" as I have a nice set of aluminum 15" rims from a Grand Caravan. Also, the improved brakes will be nice. I bought new rotors, shoes, calipers and wheel hubs / bearings.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/110_5206.jpg)
It appeared as though the bracket the calipers bolts to (and this bracket bolts to the steering knuckle) has a different spacing, so I tried to get the bracket too. No dice from Autozone, but Murray's Auto could get new calipers with the bracket for $7 more each side ($25 ea.) They ordered them for me so probably Wednesday I'll get them, so I went on to change my FF trans fluid. I had to make a tool to get the plugs out. At first I TIG welded the end of a nut to a bolt, but this broke. Next, I made it smaller and welded both sides of the nut to the bolt. I also used my propane torch to heat the aluminum case around the plug. Per http://www.brokevw.com/020oil.html (http://www.brokevw.com/020oil.html) advice, I opened the filler plug first with the tool.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/110_5204.jpg)
Then I drained it. Man, that old fluid must have been original. It looked like chocolate milk, only much thicker.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/110_5207.jpg)
I flushed it with about a pint of Mobil-1 synthetic 75w-90 gear lube and then filled it up. It took about 1.4 quarts. The rubber hose helped get it into the trans.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/110_5205.jpg)
Now my shifting is now much much better. 1st gear is almost normal now when cold.
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On my drive home last night, I smelled a whiff of coolant, so I turned on the heater. Got heat, so got coolant. A couple minutes later, checked again, no heat, no coolant !! NOT AGAIN !! So I put in the clutch and the engine stalled. I noticed on my last over-heat the injectors don't work well over heated. I let it cool off again on I-696. Then I started adding water slowly to the radiator. I noticed there was no steam. I added 3L of water - should have been enough to push the coolant back into the head. Nothing. I looked under the car and saw it pouring from the drivers side of the water pump. Man, the only hose I did not replace under there with new was the by-pass hose. It was readily available over the counter and looked good.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/bypass.jpg)
After it was cool, I used the GP and the car started right up. Great News. Should mean I did not damage anything this time... I ordered the $11 hose and I'll have it today.
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That figures, the only hose you didn't change goes out. Did Mr Murphy have your number or what?
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That figures, the only hose you didn't change goes out. Did Mr Murphy have your number or what?
Yeah, my Ukrainian wife says its my fault for being a cheap-skate. Looking back, I should have checked to learn it was only $11 - less than the cost of the coolant I lost, and replaced it.
Thank you Mr Murphy !
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theres this tape that is sold at home depot that supposedly holds up to 100 psi and hot temps... i bought some and put it in the trunk. its about $10 or so. with that at least you could limp home and then change the hose.
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Quote: "My brother did a quick front end alignment Friday just before the trip. He plays that rack like a master violinists. I had 1.86 degrees of toe out. Not too bad for only having a tape measure to do the alignment after I put the new manual rack & pinion in. Now I have exactly 0.00 toe. He thinks its worth 4 mpg. Feels like it driving it. Very smooth and stable on rough roads."
For the vehicle, what is the spec for toe out, or should that be toe-in?
The rack he uses is a new Hunter HawkEye that does 4 wheels with simple reflectors on the wheels. The center of the spec for this car is 0.00 toe, so that's what he did.
http://www.hunter.com/pub/product/alignmentsystems/index.htm
We had one of those racks with the reflector type heads at a shop I worked at once, I think it was an OTC though. The neat thing about them is that the heads never need to be re-calibrated when they get dropped and they all get dropped eventualy. The thing I never really understood about alignments was why all cars don't all have the same or at least close toe settings to keep it tracking straight and not wearing the tires. You would think "What's good for the goose would be good for the gander". On that note what the hell is a Gander anyway ??? ;D
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On that note what the hell is a Gander anyway ??? ;D
LOL ! Here in Michigan what ever they are, they have a mountain...
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The thing I never really understood about alignments was why all cars don't all have the same or at least close toe settings to keep it tracking straight and not wearing the tires. You would think "What's good for the goose would be good for the gander". On that note what the hell is a Gander anyway ??? ;D
My understanding:
Depending on the vehicle you usually start with a bit of toe in. Once you're cruising along at highway speeds friction, etc is pushing the wheels back, taking up all the slack in the suspension. This will cause some toe-out, depending on the specific suspension design of the vehicle.
So the toe in would be different for different cars, since they're going to have different front end designs and different amounts of expected toe out once they're at speed...
You could take that further to suggest that a car with more worn-out components might want a bit more toe-in than normal... Or if you change say rubber parts out with polyurethane you might impact what the "best" toe setting would be for your car...
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The thing I never really understood about alignments was why all cars don't all have the same or at least close toe settings to keep it tracking straight and not wearing the tires. You would think "What's good for the goose would be good for the gander". On that note what the hell is a Gander anyway ??? ;D
My understanding:
Depending on the vehicle you usually start with a bit of toe in. Once you're cruising along at highway speeds friction, etc is pushing the wheels back, taking up all the slack in the suspension. This will cause some toe-out, depending on the specific suspension design of the vehicle.
So the toe in would be different for different cars, since they're going to have different front end designs and different amounts of expected toe out once they're at speed...
You could take that further to suggest that a car with more worn-out components might want a bit more toe-in than normal... Or if you change say rubber parts out with polyurethane you might impact what the "best" toe setting would be for your car...
You've hit the nail on the head - the geometry of the system dictates everything about behavior... There is one aspect that has a profound affect - Caster & Camber. If you imagine the nearly vertical axis the front tire rotates about when you turn left & right, that point is angled to the center of the wheel's foot print on the road. If it is exactly centered in this foot print (usual) then there is zero pressure on the tie-rod ends while you drive steady state down the road. Now, if you put wheels on it with a different offset (the distance from the mounting surface of the hub and the center of the tire's foot print) then your pressure on the tie-rods will certainly not be neutral.
Now, back to my diesel conversion. I R&R the blown hose. It was much cheaper and easy to get than I thought - $11 for a Gates made in USA - the failed hose was made in France in the last millennium.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/110_5208.jpg)
I filled it with $18 worth of anti-freeze and started the engine. It started just a little rough but idled OK.... but there is a major problem - combustion gases in the coolant again !! It blew most of the coolant out the radiator cap.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/110_5210.jpg)
Off with the head again... new HG & bolts tonight. I am not worried about the head cracking this time as it did not get nearly as hot as last time - last time it would not idle.
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A couple more sets of head bolts and you'll have already paid for the studs without having them... :P
Sorry for your troubles. I'm sure you'll get it sorted.
You know how right you are? If I was not trying to get to Oshkosh this week in the diesel, I would have ordered them and waited for them... all this to save $11 on a hose that looked good ;-)
We (my 13 yr old son is learning to wrench on diesels!!) got the head off last night and cleaned the deck and the head. I was just about to put it back together as it looked good, when I was teaching my son how to use a straight-edge and feeler gauge... Crap, the #1 - #2 junction was out of flat by 0.005" !!!! Funny, that's where the last HG failed with I over heated it then. Must be a bit more heat for these 2 jugs. I took photos, but the USB stick would not be read on the WinDoz machine today (saved with a Mac last night).
So, this afternoon I'll be setting up the flat glass / sand paper fixture again to polish it back to flat, again. If it goes quickly, I think I'll remove my BOV and weld an aluminum plate over the hole.
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Hey arb how long does it take you to pull the head? You must be getting good at it lol? I assume the job is easier in the van?
Curious what type of abrasive and grit you use for lapping and how long it takes to flatten out 0.005"? Do you use a new piece of glass every time? How fast does the glass wear? Have you checked the flatness of a used piece of glass?
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Hey arb how long does it take you to pull the head? You must be getting good at it lol? I assume the job is easier in the van?
Curious what type of abrasive and grit you use for lapping and how long it takes to flatten out 0.005"? Do you use a new piece of glass every time? How fast does the glass wear? Have you checked the flatness of a used piece of glass?
OMG !!! yes, I can go through every set, every bolt, in my sleep !! Yes, its much easier in the van. It was designed for a V-6 so there is lots of room. The only hard part last night was to remove the lower manifold bolts while the head was still on. The first time I pulled it as a set, but it is really heavy that way with the turbo hanging off the back of the cast iron manifold.
The glass is about 5/8" thick tempered safety glass. Yes, its flat. I clean it, then use a hot glue gun on the perimeter of 3 of the sides - it takes 2 sheet of 150 grit sand paper to cover the head with room to spare for sliding the head. I also put the glass on a flat table so there is no flexing. But, safety glass this thick doesn't move much. It takes only 10 minutes or so. Most of the material comes off in the first few minutes, then it is much slower as it becomes more of a polishing job with the sand paper loads up with carbon & aluminum. The glass does not wear as I have the sand paper glued to it.
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Ye gads that alternator rides low! I guess the bigger wheels may help a little? Time for a lift kit? ;D
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I feel so bad for you. You have my kind of luck. I live in Ohio and go to summit racing every once in awhile if you ever need the studs I could pick them up for you. The great thing is that you didn't hurt it bad enough to cause it to be scrap...good job.
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Ye gads that alternator rides low! I guess the bigger wheels may help a little? Time for a lift kit? ;D
Yeah, I need to make a protector out of angle iron. I would have already, but the rear attachment to the "K" frame (why this is a "K" car) has been the only hold up. yes, the 14" wheels help some, and when I get the 15" wheels on it, that will help more. It already looks like I have a lift kit as the VW engine / trans are quite a bit lighter than the V-6 auto-slop this was designed for :-)
Yeah, Lucky I didn't crack it this time. I will not drive it again w/o a properly functioning temp gauge. That's part of why I bought a Sun set of steam gauges - you can see if it is working unlike an idiot light ;-) Too bad this Sun jumped the peg. I've never seen one do that. Summit has the studs? We have summit up here in the land of 10,000 lakes. What's the part number for the studs & nuts ?
Went home 2 hours early last night to button this engine back up. My son and I polished the head to almost spec, but the #1 - #2 junction still has a low spot. Then the thunderstorms rolled in. We packed it in, when to buy his 13th birthday gift - an e-trigger paint ball gun. (Extra sweet gift was my ex-wife is so anti-gun ;-) So, I hit the hay at 8:00 pm.. Good thing - Its still raining here now, but the rain should end by noon and we should be able to finish polishing the head and put it back together. I wonder how many times you can take off and reseal the injection lines before their seals no longer seat...
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OMG !!! yes, I can go through every set, every bolt, in my sleep !! Yes, its much easier in the van. It was designed for a V-6 so there is lots of room. The only hard part last night was to remove the lower manifold bolts while the head was still on. The first time I pulled it as a set, but it is really heavy that way with the turbo hanging off the back of the cast iron manifold.
The glass is about 5/8" thick tempered safety glass. Yes, its flat. I clean it, then use a hot glue gun on the perimeter of 3 of the sides - it takes 2 sheet of 150 grit sand paper to cover the head with room to spare for sliding the head. I also put the glass on a flat table so there is no flexing. But, safety glass this thick doesn't move much. It takes only 10 minutes or so. Most of the material comes off in the first few minutes, then it is much slower as it becomes more of a polishing job with the sand paper loads up with carbon & aluminum. The glass does not wear as I have the sand paper glued to it.
Before sanding a head I would MAKE SURE that the cam journals are still aligned. You can lay a straightedge across them or plastigage them all. If the head is warped to the point that the cam journals are not aligned, then sanding the head gasket surface flat is not the right approach.
I use a similar setup. I have a large flat desk onto which I place a big sheet of 3/8" steel and then a 3' x 2' piece of milled granite. I then use a piece of 120 grit floor sander paper from a roll that was originally 8" x 50 yards. I use a piece that is sized so that the head can move in any direction without going off the paper. I use an even coat of 3M spray adhesive and an intelligent lapping pattern to ensure that any imperfections in the sandpaper or the adhesive are minimized. I spray the paper liberally with WD-40. The last head I sanded was a Suzuki 16V head for my sidekick. When I was done it was totally flat. No measurable warp at all. It has performed flawlessly since I put it back together a week and 150 miles ago. It probably took me an hour and 3 pieces of paper to get it totally flat.
Since this is the second time I've sanded it, VERY good idea. I'll measure the cam journals too. Good lesson in geometry for my son too. I did notice this time that when I pulled the head bolts that the ones at the 4 corners were much easier to remove. That Victor Reinz HG said to coat the bolts with never-seize. I've never done that before. The corner bolts felt like they had only 30 ft/lbs or so.. then center bolts felt like the 100 ft/lbs or so the 3 turns of 90 degrees gives you.
I like the idea of the floor sand paper. Mine was 120 or 150, and it was lubed with the oil dripping from the head.
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Ye gads that alternator rides low! I guess the bigger wheels may help a little? Time for a lift kit? ;D
Yeah, I need to make a protector out of angle iron. I would have already, but the rear attachment to the "K" frame (why this is a "K" car) has been the only hold up. yes, the 14" wheels help some, and when I get the 15" wheels on it, that will help more. It already looks like I have a lift kit as the VW engine / trans are quite a bit lighter than the V-6 auto-slop this was designed for :-)
Yeah, Lucky I didn't crack it this time. I will not drive it again w/o a properly functioning temp gauge. That's part of why I bought a Sun set of steam gauges - you can see if it is working unlike an idiot light ;-) Too bad this Sun jumped the peg. I've never seen one do that. Summit has the studs? We have summit up here in the land of 10,000 lakes. What's the part number for the studs & nuts ?
Went home 2 hours early last night to button this engine back up. My son and I polished the head to almost spec, but the #1 - #2 junction still has a low spot. Then the thunderstorms rolled in. We packed it in, when to buy his 13th birthday gift - an e-trigger paint ball gun. (Extra sweet gift was my ex-wife is so anti-gun ;-) So, I hit the hay at 8:00 pm.. Good thing - Its still raining here now, but the rain should end by noon and we should be able to finish polishing the head and put it back together. I wonder how many times you can take off and reseal the injection lines before their seals no longer seat...
I wouldn'tworry about wearing out the lines, the ones on my 81 Rabbit have been off so many times over the past 4 years it's a wonder I haven't rounded the nuts away on them. As long as you are careful and get them lined up first before you tighten them they'll be ok. I know you watch for things like that.
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Here are some photos on where I am in the latest...
The sand paper step-up to flatten the head:
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/110_5237.jpg)
Boy power is great !!! We moved it mostly length-wise but did a little side to side to keep it uniform.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/110_5239.jpg)
Here's the polished side:
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/110_5240.jpg)
I did measure the cam bearings. There was a very slight out of flat to them, maybe .001"
Next we chased the threads in the head for the manifolds and valve cover... I used loctite in all of them so the cleaning was in order.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/110_5242.jpg)
Next I borrowed the exhaust tube expander from Autozone to return my S.S. flex joint to round - the pipe clamps tend to dent them making it difficult to put back together.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/110_5243.jpg)
Then I noticed on of my oil soaked CV boots was split ! It might have been original 1983, so I can't complain. I'll need to replace that and repack the CV joint.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/110_5244.jpg)
Next I had my son clean up the turbo pan I got from the crook in Halliburton ON (He had me drive 8 hr one way to buy a car he didn't have.)
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/110_5245.jpg)
After looking closely, I noticed the return line routes up almost next to the block... that would touch my drive shaft, so I decided to use my original pan and put a line on it that goes straight back, under the drive shaft. I drilled a hole and cleaned up a short 1/4" water pipe removing the zinc from where I would weld it (Not good to breath that stuff)
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/110_5249.jpg)
I completely welded it on the inside, and most of the outside.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/110_5252.jpg)
I pounded out the couple of bents that were in the bottom of the pan. It has the original contour now. I also put a super magnet in the bottom of the pan. This came out of an old hard drive (I never allow my old hard drives out of my sight w/o first taking them apart to destroy the personal data and get a nice magnet) This will collect any steel particles over the coming years. This is standard practice now for automatic transmissions.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/110_5255.jpg)
I also bought an oil filter wrench to remove the old filter - it got hot enough to partially melt the plastic label on it and my strap based wrench could not get on the short filter... This new wrench is the type that goes over the end of the filter
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/wrench.jpg)
- I got off the old filter and installed the new large capacity filter ( M1-301 ) I then bead blasted the outside of my pan and washed it inside an out with tri-chloral to remove any oil or dust. I then applied 4 coats of engine enamel black. It has been baking in the sun for 2 days so it should be ready tonight to go back on the engine.
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Hi Arb, what kind of paper is that? Looks like dry garnet for wood? Would a wet/dry paper that won't shed its grit as easily be better (with some water for lube)? As for oil filter, have you tried the Motorcraft FL-1A? It's a little bigger than the stock filter and is readily available and cheap at Autozone and Walmart under$4.
Boy power IS GOOD (looks like he's a nice kid)! I notice in that pic there are no caps on the injectors. :o
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Yes, that's the type of paper. They were lubed with engine oil coming from the head at a regular rate. I thought that was enough lube. I had 3M emery cloth but thought this stuff would be good. It took a lot of strokes to remove any material.
Yes, his a good son. Very helpful and courteous - no disrespect at all, unlike his 2 older "half" sisters. I never liked that expression - which half is his ? LOL !!
Yeah, I wish I would have covered the injectors this time... I cleaned them with compressed air.
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How could I forget ? I also removed my BOV - it had come loose several times and I have a boost gauge right in front of my eyes...
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/110_5246.jpg)
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Got a little closer to start up last night until I hit a brick wall..
First I got the pan back on, and the oil return hose connected to the pan and routed to where the turbo goes. Here's the pan nice and shinny:
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/110_5258.jpg)
But, before I buttoned it up, I thought I would confirm that my block is indeed the 1983 turbo block I was sold. I looked, but could not see the cooling oil squinters. I did not have the car lifted, so there was not enough room to get a good look, so I took photos. Looking at them, it seems clear this block in not a turbo block.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/110_5259.jpg)
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/110_5262.jpg)
Oh well, back to the job, I connected the heater core to head hose, attempted to install the temp probe, thinking I would try and take apart the temp gauge and move the needle back to the other side of the peg so this does not happen again (undetected lose of coolant until its too late.) BUT, the brass fitting the probe goes into cracked ! Don't you love China ?
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/110_5266.jpg)
I took this as a very clear sign to fix it right, bite the bullet and remove the temp gauge for replacement at Autozone. It was not fun removing the fire-block from the firewall, and removing the probe's cable from the nice neat wire harness I created, taping the bundle together every 6" or so. Not fun, but its out now and tonight I'll have a new one to install :-)
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that sucks you got ripped off on a n/a block. i ripped the pan off my turbo motor before it even left the last owners house. took the turbo inlet off too, and found that the turbo was annihilated.
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yesterday I was able to get the Sun Temp gauge swapped at Autozone... The manager had to help me as there was no stated warranty from Sun http://www.sunpro.com/ (http://www.sunpro.com/) - Buyer beware ;-)
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/110_5268.jpg)
Snaking that probe through the dash and firewall was a real pain in the butt.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/110_5270.jpg)
But, I got it installed. Then guess what I screwed up? Look at the photo and tell me what I did wrong:
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/110_5271.jpg)
:-)
I decided I'll cut the bottom 4mm of the housing (just a slice with the tin snips to allow it to pass) I made so the probe cable can thread through the face of the housing :-D I really want to drive this ride tomorrow :-D
And yes, it really sucks when someone lies to you about what they are selling you :-( Guess I am too trusting.
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Koo dos to you my good man 8) You have the patience of a Saint and a Queen as a Wife for her support! Props to your Boy for gettin' his hands in there, priceless lifetime knowledge! I've been keepin tabs on your build from page one, and 23 later, the SunPro fitting was my last straw :o I woulda lost it and gone on a smashing frenzy ;) Keep up the good work and vibe!
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I have my Triple D back (Diesel Daily Driver) as of yesterday. This weekend I intended to get it on the road, but we had sweltering heat and thunderstorms with down pours.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/110_5272.jpg)
First, I got the temp gauge replacement back in and the dash back in order.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/110_5274.jpg)
Since I thought I only had a couple of hours work, I tried to finish Monday morning starting at 7:00 - MAN was it HOT - I drank a gallon of water that morning... Next I installed the manifolds and needed to put my EGT gauge plug back in the exhaust manifold, but for the life of me I could not find the 1/8" NPT plug, so I found a brass fitting that has the same thread pitch, but need the end plugged. The end has the same threads as the head bolts, so I cut off a piece of one of the dozens of used head bolds I have.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/110_5275.jpg)
But I could not get the plug to thread. My wife had her car so I could not just go get one. I found that a brass temp probe from the original 1.6L head has 1/8" NPT so I used that...
Engine all buttoned up, time to start and bring to temp before the final 90 degrees of head bold rotation
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/110_5276.jpg)
Time to retire the valve cover gasket and use the new one I have had for 20 years on the shelf.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/110_5278.jpg)
It took far too long to prime the injection lines. I finally connected the electronic aux fuel lift pump and used it to prime my IP. It was then easy to prime the lines. The car started right up even with the depleted battery (volts dropped to 8v when I cycled my pimped glow plugs.
First time I noticed really freaked me out - the timing belt had started to ride away from the block !!! Yikes. I removed the belt upper cover and realized the tensioner was too tight (when I did the final torque on the nut, I recall the tensioner moving a bit more tight), so I loosened it and slid the belt back. Much to my shock, the pulley shaft on the IP had more in/out than I've ever felt. Man, the heat must have been unkind to the IP... This time I held the tensioner in place as I torqued the nut. I then noticed the belt had rubbed the cover and frayed off a couple of 3" strands of cords. Time to replace the belt and the IP soon. Wish I had $900 for Giles !!! I trimmed off the cords.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/110_5279.jpg)
I then ran the engine for a while to be sure the belt was not going to ride off the pulley. It stayed about 2mm over the edge. I adjusted the TB cover to not be so close to the belt. I ran it a while longer and noticed the injection pump was leaking on the bottom side, about 1 drip every 2 or 3 seconds !!! YIKES !! I rechecked the injection line fittings, nope. I got out the mirror and saw it appears they are coming from the junction of the iron plunger body and the aluminum pump body !!! Looks like I can live with this until this weekend when I'll pull the pump and replace it - I have 3 on had. Not sure the condition. Maybe I rebuild one this week and install over the weekend ?
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/110_5280.jpg)
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That belt tracking is way off. There's no way I'd run like that. The belt will get chewed up on the lip of the tensioner and the intermediate shaft pulley, if it has a lip, or the crank pulley if not. Adjusting the tracking is as "simple" as loosening the timing pump bracket bolts (plate on pulley side of engine and mounting bolts of the angled part that bolts to the side of the block) and moving the back of the pump up and the pulley side down.
The head o-ring is easy to change on or off the car, but the proper procedure MUST be followed or the pump can be trashed.
Thanks Andrew, so the IP mounting plate stays were it is on the engine block, but I am loosening the 3 bolts on the IP that hold it to the plate and the bolt on the opposite side of the IP to move the back up and pulley side down ?
I'll search the FAQ for the procedure to replace the o-ring. Its strange the belt tracking moved so much with this last over-heat...
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Nope. The bolts that hold the pump to the bracket don't affect the tracking. The bolts to be concerned with are the ones that mount the bracket to the engine block and the two parts of the bracket together.
I thought the IP mounting bracket was one piece and mounted on the side of the block at 90 digress to the crank / cam. Its also the engine mount. So, I loosen the bolts that hold this bracket to the block and move the IP from one side to the other ? Do I use shims to keep the new angle ?
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OK, I think I follow. The result will be to introduce (or remove) twist in the IP mounting plate that is attached to the block / IP & engine mount. That would track the belt back towards the IP - right ? How much am I looking to move it? I thought about what changed - my first thought was the IP pulley is at a new angle because the IP shaft is no longer parallel to the crank / cam due to bearing failure in the IP. My second thought was the shaving of the head to remove the warp has tilted the cam pulley slightly down. If its only the second, them I can see adjusting the twist of the IP mounting would bring it back true.
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Move the plate down relative to the block (jack under the block if it is your mount also). Move the second part up in relation to the block and mounting plate. No need for any shims.
This seems to me that it would move the belt even further away from the pump... Shouldn't it be the other way ?
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It may seem counter intuitive, but I have adjusted several pumps and the pulley down and the back of the pump up has always been the fastest path to moving the belt tracking further onto the pump sprocket. By all means, try both directions and report back.
Andrew
THANKS Andrew !! I see the cradle and its mounts to the block. That's the only mount on an AAZ for the IP ? I've never worked on an AAZ.
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Out of necessity I have been driving the diesel caravan for almost 2 weeks with the IP dripping and the belt alignment a bit off. The belt seems to be happy in its 4mm off location, but I'll still replace it with a new one when I swap the pump. I have 2 spare pumps just like the one I have on the engine, supposed to be good but I have not opened them, and I have this one w/o enrichment boost.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/pump003.jpg)
Last week I ordered a reseal kit for my pump, with Vitron seals. it came with both 17mm and 20mm shaft seals, so I'll have an extra. I've never heard of this brand. Hopefully they are OK.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/110_5283.jpg)
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/110_5284.jpg)
Off to the FAQ pages for what I do next.
Any suggestions on which of the 2 pump styles I should reseal would be nice.
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I found it google searching - pointed me to ebay. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=170372262132
I searched the web and the John Deere tractor guys seem to think this is an Itanian company. I'm not conviced.
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Info on Spaco
R.A.S.E.D. S.P.A. is a Company founded in 1961 and is based in Milano Italy.
It is specialised in the manufacture of COMPONENTS FOR ALL TYPES OF DIESEL FUEL INJECTION PUMPS.
The brand name of the company's products is "SPACO DIESEL" (a registered Trade Mark) and the products cover an extremely vast range of SPAREPARTS from Gasket and Service Kits which comprise the appropriate gaskets and sealing components to overhaul the pump, to Nozzles, Elements, Solenoid Valves, Metering Valves , Liners, Diaphragms, Lever Springs etc. for almost all types of Diesel Fuel Injection Pumps
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Info on Spaco
R.A.S.E.D. S.P.A. is a Company founded in 1961 and is based in Milano Italy.
It is specialised in the manufacture of COMPONENTS FOR ALL TYPES OF DIESEL FUEL INJECTION PUMPS.
The brand name of the company's products is "SPACO DIESEL" (a registered Trade Mark) and the products cover an extremely vast range of SPAREPARTS from Gasket and Service Kits which comprise the appropriate gaskets and sealing components to overhaul the pump, to Nozzles, Elements, Solenoid Valves, Metering Valves , Liners, Diaphragms, Lever Springs etc. for almost all types of Diesel Fuel Injection Pumps
WOW !! If they are anything like VM Motori in Italia, then I will be very satisfied with the results. ( VM makes small diesels for may OEM car and accessory makers. The CRD for the Jeep Liberty was theirs, so was the diesel in the Chrysler Town & country , PT Cruiser - for the rest of the world. They were owned by Detroit Diesel, but Roger Penske bought them back and sold half to GM for their new Caddie for the rest of the world. Now Brian Nessbitt (guy who designed the PT cruiser) is head of this GM division and has not made up his mind on Diesel.... PEOPLE, write him a letter - we need more diesel's here. http://www.autoobserver.com/2009/08/new-cadillac-gm-pondering-the-diesel-equation.html (http://www.autoobserver.com/2009/08/new-cadillac-gm-pondering-the-diesel-equation.html)
Brian Nessbitt
GM
6600 E 12 Mile Rd
Warren, MI 48092-3975
PS - sorry about my diesel activism :-)
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OK, the slow drip from my P has become a rapid drip. Good thing got the reseat kit. i was going to do a proper full tear down and rebuilt of one of the 4 IP I have, but yesterday was filled with stuff for my son and wife... priorities. I started to do just the O ring between the iron pump head, following Andrew's and others posts:
http://vwdieselparts.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5311&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=75 (http://vwdieselparts.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5311&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=75)
http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=20376.0 (http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=20376.0)
And this post about doing on the bench...
http://crustycrank.com/resealinjpump.htm#injpump (http://crustycrank.com/resealinjpump.htm#injpump)
But why pull the pump and retime it if I don't need to. The only question I have for Andrew's procedure, how long does the 8mm 1.0 bolt need to be to hold things together while separating the 2 housings ? The longest I could find in town (Detroit is not much of a motor city these days) was 30mm long threads. That's only about 9mm longer than the timing plug.
Help !
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Arb, though I did buy 2 longer bolts, I found the 4 stock bolts are long enough to not grenade the pump if you back them out just enough to expose the o-ring and no more.
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Geez ARB, you don't know anyone in Detroit light(windsor ON)?Just pop over the border via the tunnel, go down Oullette ave until you hit Erie(just before the hospital), hang a left, go 6 short blocks to howard, hang a right, go down 2 blocks to ottawa hang a left, and look on your left for the car parts store (Autozone IIRC) ask any of the guys there for what you need. They have fasteners up the wazoo for import cars and all the metric goodies you could ever want.
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Things did not go well last night. The IP on my car has different fasteners than the 4 IP sitting on my bench. They have smaller caps, and none of them are a flat blade screw driver head.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/110_5286.jpg)
All 4 of my spares have larger caps, plus the 2 flat heads.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/110_5287.jpg)
All went well removing the first 2, then they all refused to cooperate. I used an easy out on 2 of them.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/110_5288.jpg)
and got the bracket off
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/110_5290.jpg)
But the last 2 would not budge. I tried heat and vice grips... no luck. The afternoon I'll try removing the nozzle next to the bolt in hopes I can get a really good bit with the vise grips.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/110_5291.jpg)
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Sears has the external easy out for the outside of bolts. I bought the complete set for another project.
http://milo.com/craftsman-bolt-out-5-pc-damaged-bolt-nut-remover-set-
these little beauties work better then easy outs for soem situations. The trick is keeping constant pressure on them. Also have you tried putting a little atf around the bolts to break the rust out of the threads?
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Sears has the external easy out for the outside of bolts. I bought the complete set for another project.
http://milo.com/craftsman-bolt-out-5-pc-damaged-bolt-nut-remover-set-
these little beauties work better then easy outs for soem situations. The trick is keeping constant pressure on them. Also have you tried putting a little atf around the bolts to break the rust out of the threads?
since these are cap screws (allen head bolts) how do I get these to grip? They look like they are for hex-head bolts. I tried loads of WD-40. That's why its wet. Maybe it will have soaked in since yesterday :-)
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Arb, only the 4 corner bolts on the head are torx, the other 2 are hex. Did you use a torx bit on a hex bolt? Of the 4 corner bolts 2 of them have thicker heads and they are longer than the 2 thinner head bolts. After the bracket is removed, put the 2 longer bolts back in and they should be long enough to back out the head to expose the o-ring. Good luck.
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since these are cap screws (allen head bolts) how do I get these to grip? They look like they are for hex-head bolts.
Don't worry, those will grip ANY fastener. They are actually made for rounded-off bolts and work extremely well on cap screws too. If there was a contest for "best cheap tool to save your ass" then these sears removers would win it hands-down.
Brendan
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If you don't have a place selling Free All, PM me your address and I will get you a bottle. It works better than everything I have ever tried on stuck stuff. I sell about 10 different types of penetrating oil and this one is the best I have used. Good luck getting it going again.
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Arb, only the 4 corner bolts on the head are torx, the other 2 are hex. Did you use a torx bit on a hex bolt? Of the 4 corner bolts 2 of them have thicker heads and they are longer than the 2 thinner head bolts. After the bracket is removed, put the 2 longer bolts back in and they should be long enough to back out the head to expose the o-ring. Good luck.
if you notice in my photo, I'm using torx bit on the corner bolts - used allen on the other 2 - they are off, just 2 of the corner bolts would not budge. The odd thing is this pump has smaller heads on the bolts than the other 4 IP I have on the bench. Strange.
At this point, I think I'll completely go through the best pump and if it looks good inside, rebuilt it and put it on my engine.
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Sears has the external easy out for the outside of bolts. I bought the complete set for another project.
http://milo.com/craftsman-bolt-out-5-pc-damaged-bolt-nut-remover-set-
these little beauties work better then easy outs for soem situations. The trick is keeping constant pressure on them. Also have you tried putting a little atf around the bolts to break the rust out of the threads?
since these are cap screws (allen head bolts) how do I get these to grip? They look like they are for hex-head bolts. I tried loads of WD-40. That's why its wet. Maybe it will have soaked in since yesterday :-)
I've used them on rounded off bolts my neighbour made with his handy dandy adjustable left handed metric wrench.
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Thanks guys, I realllllly appreciate all the help. I have been a bit distracted today with my Dad passing yesterday. 30 years "on the job" as they said in NYPD Blues with a cigar in his mouth most of the time caught up with him --- RIP ---... In his words =
'Tomorrow is another day'
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My condolences bud, take your time and remember we'll still be here when you get back. Take care of your family they need you right now.
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since these are cap screws (allen head bolts) how do I get these to grip? They look like they are for hex-head bolts.
Don't worry, those will grip ANY fastener. They are actually made for rounded-off bolts and work extremely well on cap screws too. If there was a contest for "best cheap tool to save your ass" then these sears removers would win it hands-down.
Brendan
Agreed. Those are probably one of the best tools that Craftsman has put out lately, a close second is their twisted wrenches.
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I started to replace the seal in the car yesterday. I got that top stubborn bolt off after I removed (and cleaned) the fitting for the injector line. Notice where the bolt is.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/110_5292.jpg)
Then I got the bottom with a very tight Torx bit. Worked great. Went inside to eat dinner and returned to see tragedy had set in. I thought it was going to take some force getting them apart, but the several days of WD-40 let gravity separate them without Andrew's bolt being tightened as required to keep everything in place.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/110_5294.jpg) I thought I could get it back together if I carefully pushed them together, so I tightened Andrew's bolt, and them the two new bolts until the seal was just exposed by 1 - 2mm... I tried to peal off the old o-ring, but it was partially fused to the housing from the heat of over heating... There was on piece that was on the back side of the housing where it was impossible to remove it and have a clean groove for the new seal.. so I had to remove the body anyway. Once appear, there was no way to just put it back together...
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/110_5295.jpg)
So, on to resealing a spare pump that was pulled from a running engine. I cleaned it inside and out first. Looks really good inside.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/110_5293.jpg)
Since it looked so good inside, I decided to only replace the top seal, the body - body seal, and the shaft seal with Viton seals. Someone posted on the net how to do the body seal using gravity to hold everything in place... I also used Andrew's bolt and it worked great !
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/110_5298.jpg)
I was amazed how much the o-ring would stretch. It looked perfect before closing.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/110_5299.jpg)
Getting the old shaft seal out was a pain
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/110_5301.jpg)
But the new one went in w/o issue.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/110_5303.jpg)
Next was the process of swapping pumps and retiming. MAN did I dodge the bullet on that belt not tracking right !! I got the top 2 IP bolts off but the bottom one is becoming hard to get at. Looks like I might have to remove the alternator & A/C mounts to get at the bottom bold.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/110_5305.jpg)
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I would say your pretty lucky that belt held!
To straighten it you need to pull the out end of the IP up/drive end down. That will require loosening all of the bracket bolts.
I had the same problem and after doing that it ran on the inside of the pulley.
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Anyone have a trick to remove the lower IP bolt (the 3 bolt flange to the mounting plate) without removing the alternator & A/C bracket ???
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I think I got it with a flex end gear wrench.
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Quote: "Went inside to eat dinner and returned to see tragedy had set in."
Arb, did the 2 bolts that was holding the head loosened on their own after you went in for dinner? ???
From the pic, that o-ring is out way too far. I had to make a tool out of stiff wire to separate the o-ring which was stuck in the groove also in unreachable areas.
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Quote: "Went inside to eat dinner and returned to see tragedy had set in."
Arb, did the 2 bolts that was holding the head loosened on their own after you went in for dinner? ???
From the pic, that o-ring is out way too far. I had to make a tool out of stiff wire to separate the o-ring which was stuck in the groove also in unreachable areas.
When I was able to break free the 2 last bolts, I backed them out to where you see them in the photo thinking it would take some force to separate the iron from the aluminum housing... when I came back from dinner, they had separated on their own and the iron moved far enough that things would have been out of alignment.
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Quote: "Went inside to eat dinner and returned to see tragedy had set in."
Arb, did the 2 bolts that was holding the head loosened on their own after you went in for dinner? ???
From the pic, that o-ring is out way too far. I had to make a tool out of stiff wire to separate the o-ring which was stuck in the groove also in unreachable areas.
When I was able to break free the 2 last bolts, I backed them out to where you see them in the photo thinking it would take some force to separate the iron from the aluminum housing... when I came back from dinner, they had separated on their own and the iron moved far enough that things would have been out of alignment.
Did you have 2 bolts 180 degree apart, equally backed out on the head at all times? The 2 springs inside the pump pushing on the head are pretty hefty and unless you have 2 bolts holding the head back at all times you are asking for trouble. Is the slotted bolt from the pump or did you buy it as extra longs? The 2 bolts that hold the bracket on (at 2 and 8 o'clock of the head) are longer than the other 2 (at 10 and 4 o'clock). If you had taken the bracket off and put the 2 bolts from 2 and 8 o'clock back in and use them as keepers, you could have done it without buying longer bolts. When I did mine on the car, it was a very slow and tedious operation since it was my first time doing it. In the end, it came out alright even though I missed an important step of keeping constant pressure on the plunger.
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Is that a new delivery valve or did you clean up the old one?
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/110_5294.jpg)
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Is that a new delivery valve or did you clean up the old one?
I cleaned up the one I removed, inside and out. Lub'd it with WD-40 when I reassembled it. I'm not going to use that IP now, but the one I resealed and cleaned...
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Wow it cleaned up nicely! I am surprised how the rust cleaned up to expose the original plating! I woulda thought the plating rusted away leaving bare metal? Did you use a wire wheel on a motor?
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Wow it cleaned up nicely! I am surprised how the rust cleaned up to expose the original plating! I woulda thought the plating rusted away leaving bare metal? Did you use a wire wheel on a motor?
Nope, first I hit it with carb cleaner in a spray can, using a new tooth brush, then I removed this residue with TriChlor brake cleaner. Then I low pressure glass bead blasted it, the blew it off with dry shop air and then washed again with brake cleaner before opening it up. Yes, it surprised me too.
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Anyone have a trick to remove the lower IP bolt (the 3 bolt flange to the mounting plate) without removing the alternator & A/C bracket ???
Well there's a hole in the pulley for putting a socket through ;), unless I'm mistaken of what your talking about.
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Anyone have a trick to remove the lower IP bolt (the 3 bolt flange to the mounting plate) without removing the alternator & A/C bracket ???
Well there's a hole in the pulley for putting a socket through ;), unless I'm mistaken of what your talking about.
And the bolt on the lower part of the IP flange is a captive nut ? WOW !! Its been so many years since I've swapped an IP. I recall seeing the bolt now behind the pulley.
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oops. I thought you meant the bracket part on the engine not on the gear side of the IP :-[
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OK, it mounted the rebuilt IP and got the "Duralast" belt on the engine... I could not get the 60% higher priced Goodyear Gatorback belt any time this weekend.... So, I also loosened the the IP mounting plate to move it down so this belt would track normal... I will move up the other end of the IP tomorrow when I have the rest of the IP mount on the engine again. There was much to clean up on the inside of the timing belt covers as well as the pulleys. I also spent quite a bit of time cleaning the intermeadate shaft pulley, cam pulley, cam pulley, IP pulley, and crank pulley to be free of diesel and oil. The IP mounts on the plate were straight forward. I took other photos but for what ever reason they did not upload..
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/110_5307.jpg)
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Started to drive the Diesel to work this morning.. some part of the IP mount must have slipped as at high RPM just before shifting, the belt walked over to the cover and started making noise !! I was near my wife's work, so I parked it there and took her car. :-((
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there are both ways, some had a bolt under the ip, some had a goofy shaped piece of steel with a stud sticking out of it. i like the stud on the piece of steel, because you can get at it from the holes in the sprocket.
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there are both ways, some had a bolt under the ip, some had a goofy shaped piece of steel with a stud sticking out of it. i like the stud on the piece of steel, because you can get at it from the holes in the sprocket.
Mine is the stud on the steel "C" shaped.
I think my current problem was the bolt holding the end of the IP to the engine block mount in the center of the block slipped allowing the IP to swing lower on the nozzle side. I had to lift that side a bit when I tightened that one bolt, so the belt would track centered. Wish there was something to attach to on the head or block to have a "screw jack" to have fine control over the alignment of the IP and therefore the belt tracking. This is the only IDI I've ever had an issue with belt tracking. When the IP was off, I tried to adjust down the IP mounting plate at the end of the block, but I could not budge the cap screw on the back corner of the engine due to my custom engine mount. I didn't want to break the bolt, so I focused on the other end of the pump. Worked great Sunday and this morning until I got one block from home and was revving the engine somewhat high.. Pop and it sounded like I had a belt driven blower under the hood :-(
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What is the update about sundays adventure?
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The root cause of the belt near failure was the nut on the IP - either I never torqued it, or I didn't tighten it at all !! OMG ! Can't believe it. I put some red loctite on it and torqued it. Not problem with tracking now. I need to replace the belt and the lower belt cover now... Also, the IP has no power and smokes a bit more than usual when the engine is cold. Cold starts take a few tries now, and my max speed in 5th is 67 on flat ground. I was able to easily hit 80 and had plenty of throttle travel with the old pump. I had the timing set on 0.040" exactly, so maybe someone turned down the fuel or some of the nozzles are fowled.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/110_5310.jpg)
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Assuming there are no air bubbles entering the pump, smoke at cold start would likely be either retarded injection pump timing, incorrect cam timing or a glow plug/injector issue. WRT the lack of power, how's the smoke/EGTs at full pedal? Similar to the last pump or less?
Andrew
There is no smoke at WRT after it is warmed up, the other pump had a little. I never adjusted the fueling on the first pump, but who knows what was done before as the collar was off the screw. I can also get 10 psi boost if I wind it out, the other pump was maxing at about 8 - 8.5 psi.
I have driven it 40 miles, so all the air should be gone (I'll look to be sure something is not tight) Do you think I should check the timing again before touching the fuel screw (again, no way to know if this second IP had had the fuel screw moved. The idle is probably at 600 - 700 when warm and not at all when cold.)
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sounds retarded. i got more boost and higher EGTs when i was running retarded.
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Is the pump itself different? Some of the turbo pumps had smaller heads I believe. Some pumps being worn more than others could take a thou or two more advance as well. Seeing the stuff you have made I am sure you will get it right. Or send it to Giles ;D
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Is the pump itself different? Some of the turbo pumps had smaller heads I believe. Some pumps being worn more than others could take a thou or two more advance as well. Seeing the stuff you have made I am sure you will get it right. Or send it to Giles ;D
Yes, its an entirely different 9mm N/A pump. I was a bit drained last night and this is my DD, so I did not rip into re-timing it again because I was thinking about how to do this w/o pulling the injection lines. Currently I use a dial indicator and magnetic stand. It works if you remove the injection lines. Not fun and wastes a bunch of time:
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/dial.gif)
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/stand.gif)
So, being a bit lazy I started thinking of making a tool out of the top half of that bolt I bought to use Andrew's method of replacing the pump head O-ring... I'll drill out the center, weld a bracket to the head about 6" long, put an offset into it so the indicator is aligned with the center of the bolt, making a rod to extend the end of the indicator so it will reach the internal plate yet give movement to indicator. I'm thinking a sold 1/8" welding rod, glued into a tube that slips over the pin of the dial indicator. Photos to follow.
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You might be able to use a 10-24 or 10-32 or whatever thread the Dial indicator is Die to thread your welding rod...I good piece of drill rod would work too. Maybe even a bolt that has the correct thread with the head cut off and rounded. Just giving you some ideas as I am a frugal SOB and do stuff like this all the time. :D
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You might be able to use a 10-24 or 10-32 or whatever thread the Dial indicator is Die to thread your welding rod...I good piece of drill rod would work too. Maybe even a bolt that has the correct thread with the head cut off and rounded. Just giving you some ideas as I am a frugal SOB and do stuff like this all the time. :D
Yeah, me too. With the falling auto industry and with it good pay, I'm a real cheap skate !! (a divorce who's litigation still isn't over does not help = advice = guys, 1) don't marry a woman with children unless you don't mind being their ATM machine. 2) if you get divorced, GO TO TRIAL - in Michigan it is a 50% - 50% for almost everything. A trial resolves everything once and for all.)
OK, it was timing !! Good thing I didn't touch the fueling yet w/o my pyro meter installed. For some reason it was at 0.030" (0.076mm) and not the 0.040" (1.02mm) I had thought I set it too. I have an N/A pump so 0.035" (0.90mm) is at the bottom of the range. I like running at the top of the turbo range. I made my tool and reset the timing to 0.036" (0.91mm) - it was the end of the travel for rotation the pump clockwise (facing the nozzle end) so to get my additional 0.004" (0.11mm) I would have to pop the belt and move it one tooth and rotate the other way. I will do this after I get the Gator Back (Goodyear) belt this weekend. Then the damaged Italian belt can come off. I had plenty of power this morning and need to drive to the other side of the state to get my pop-up camper tonight... Plenty of power for this I think ;-)
Here's the bolt and bracket:
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/110_5312.jpg)
Here's welding the other side:
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/110_5313.jpg)
Here's what the setup looks like:
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/110_5315.jpg)
And on the engine. A little tricky getting the screw and nut to hold the indicator on the bracket, not nothing too hard. Sure saved some time with all the lines and bleeding them, etc.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/110_5316.jpg)
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YIKES !! I see my throttle cable got wacked out of position !!
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Arb, I like ur bracket. The factory unit is concentric and the dial gauge is smaller in diameter which allows the entire unit to be threaded in as one assembly. With the 2.5" diameter gauge like yours (and mine), that is not possible. I made my own adapter also but didn't take good measurements, which made it necessary to remove the injector hard lines before it can be used. i need to make another adapter that works with hard lines installed. in your setup, does the long indicator rod touch the sleeve? If yes, do you think it would bias the reading?
. certainly works
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Arb, I like ur bracket. The factory unit is concentric and the dial gauge is smaller in diameter which allows the entire unit to be threaded in as one assembly. With the 2.5" diameter gauge like yours (and mine), that is not possible. I made my own adapter also but didn't take good measurements, which made it necessary to remove the injector hard lines before it can be used. i need to make another adapter that works with hard lines installed. in your setup, does the long indicator rod touch the sleeve? If yes, do you think it would bias the reading?
It slides freely in the sleeve/ hallow bolt. So, yes, on one side. The hole is 2x the shaft size and the shaft is coated TIG rod, so it is very smooth. Just to be sure, while spinning back the engine, I touch the end of the shaft (next to the dial) to be sure it has not stopped moving for friction reasons. No change. I tested it without touching it and got the same results. Not sure why I had bad readings last time, but apparently the mag mount for dial must have shifted. This way works great ! I like the 2.5" dial as I use it for many other things (brakes, axle shafts, etc.)
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pics of the timing device? ;D
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pics of the timing device? ;D
Hi Macka.
Are you asking about the bracket made to check the timing w/o removing the injection lines again ? They are at the bottom of the previous page:
http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=15633.390 (http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=15633.390)
Tomorrow I'll replace that damaged timing belt and move the IP one tooth so I can have my proper 1mm of advance rather than 0.9x mm :-)
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you wont have to move it a tooth i bet. cause when you put that new belt on there, its going to probably be alot less stretched, and it will probably time out just fine.
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Timing belts are specifically designed to not stretch at all. I have changed many belts that were 60,000 miles or even older and have actually checked the timing before and after the belt swap several times and it has never been different one iota. The reason for the timing check after a belt swap is not to compensate for stretch but rather for the off chance that the belt was manufactured a slightly different length.
"Ah-mean" as my lovely Ukrainian wife says :-D I still have to replace that damaged belt and move the IP a tooth an re-time it. I drove it today some distance. The interesting thing was pulling up to the dedicated diesel pump for a fill-up and having a middle aged woman drive up to me and ask if my Caravan was re-engined with a diesel. :-) The highest form of complement :-)
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dude, thats a once in a life time thing. a woman ask you if you put a diesel in your van? thats friggen awesome. haha.
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dude, thats a once in a life time thing. a woman ask you if you put a diesel in your van? thats friggen awesome. haha.
You got that right... looking back I have been driving this since April 27, and not once has a man asked the question. That surprises me. I get a few funny looks, but I guess the masses have forgotten the days of 50 mpg diesel cars in the USA.
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haha, i love it when people ask me what kinda mileage i get. "oh, about 35 with my foot to the floor and a black cloud behind me the entire time, or around 50 if im nice to it." the looks on their faces is absolutely priceless. its especially funny when they are driving a ricer and they tell me its faster. then we go out to the jetty (3 mile long straight stretch with no traffic ever) and lay it down. there arent too many kids around here who will line up against me anymore. last car was a green fart can equipped honda civic. thought he wanted a piece of me at a stop light, revved up his engine a few times, so i gave him a small burp of the throttle to let him know it was on, then the light turned green. i could hear him shifting and revving to about 80,000 trying to catch me, then we pulled up to the next stop light, and he tried again, and again, he was behind me somewhere in the smoke. at the next stop light he turned and left with his tail between his legs.
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"Ah-mean" as my lovely Ukrainian wife says :-D I still have to replace that damaged belt and move the IP a tooth an re-time it. I drove it today some distance. The interesting thing was pulling up to the dedicated diesel pump for a fill-up and having a middle aged woman drive up to me and ask if my Caravan was re-engined with a diesel. :-) The highest form of complement :-)
That mustuv been a happy moment for you, and she mustuv been a rare woman ;D
I once had a woman warn me that I was filling up with diesel, I says 'yeah I know', she says 'does it get better mileage that way?' I didn't bother explaining.
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I once had a woman warn me that I was filling up with diesel, I says 'yeah I know', she says 'does it get better mileage that way?' I didn't bother explaining.
LMAO, thats awesome.
one time i was filling up my rabbit, and the kid comes running out of the hut in the middle of all the pumps. "dude, what are you doing?!" as i have my trunk open and the nozzle in the back of my rabbit. lol. then he takes a few more steps and he could see exactly what i was doing, filling up my diesel KEG. another time i pull up to a diesel pump and im on the phone, and before i know it, the pump attendant had a couple gallons of diesel on the ground. she tried filling it up with the stock fuel filler. witch is weird, because i always park drivers side towards the pump, so the stock fill is on the outside. but she just stretched that hose a little more and pumped away. then i heard something on the ground. WOAH!, stop, thats not where the diesel goes!
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I once had a woman warn me that I was filling up with diesel, I says 'yeah I know', she says 'does it get better mileage that way?' I didn't bother explaining.
LMAO, thats awesome.
one time i was filling up my rabbit, and the kid comes running out of the hut in the middle of all the pumps. "dude, what are you doing?!" as i have my trunk open and the nozzle in the back of my rabbit. lol. then he takes a few more steps and he could see exactly what i was doing, filling up my diesel KEG. another time i pull up to a diesel pump and im on the phone, and before i know it, the pump attendant had a couple gallons of diesel on the ground. she tried filling it up with the stock fuel filler. witch is weird, because i always park drivers side towards the pump, so the stock fill is on the outside. but she just stretched that hose a little more and pumped away. then i heard something on the ground. WOAH!, stop, thats not where the diesel goes!
LMAO 2 !!
I had a keg as well once, but it was on my 73 Nova SS - the stock tank rusted out. I was on a college road trip once and low on money, so I put about 40% diesel fuel in with my leaded gas. Diesel then was quite a bit cheaper than gas. The carb on the puntched 283 did just fine. The exhaust smelled kinda sweat. A unique smell.
How things has changed - no CAT's back then on gassers, but now diesels have 2 separate CAT's and a DPF, maybe even a throttle plate on the intake !
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oh no, all diesels have an air throttle now. its sad :'(
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I pulled that half eaten timing belt off yesterday and ordered a new one. My lower cover needs to be replaced now (Anyone got an extra one ???)
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/110_5327.jpg)
To get to work the next 3 days it will take for them to get the Gator Back (Goodyear) belt, I installed the belt that came on this engine. I have no idea if it has 1,000 miles on it or 60,000 but it looks good.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/110_5330.jpg)
I retimed the engine, moving the IP one tooth forward. I could only rotate the IP enough to get 0.045" (1.117mm). It starts easy and has a good idle even cold. My power is back so I'm happy with that level. When it gets cold I might have to connect the cold start lever to a cable...
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Still looking for a lower cover - have a line on one along with a cam baffle.
So, I decided now was the time to replace the wheel bearings / brakes from the 14" rims to the 15" rims - Dodged used 2 different bolt patterns. My drive way is gravel, so I was never comfortable trusting the jack stands on gravel - I would put them on 2x4's.. So, I modified them Saturday with angle iron.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/110_5332.jpg)
Next, with the car up, I thought I'd find the source of a very troubling noise / slop that had developed in the steering linkage... I feared it was the custom end to the rack & pinion I made... nope, the bolt at column coupling was never tight. Easy fix.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/110_5333.jpg)
Next, the brakes. I was worried about the bolts that hold the hub on the car - the bolts were very very rusty - I heated them good and hot with propane and they came right off.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/110_5334.jpg)
Nice new brakes :-) I then had a frantic run to find a tire shop still open as one of the tires I was to use was rotten and would not hold air.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/110_5335.jpg)
This morning I found I have some electrical problems - the power to energize my GP relay, Radio, lighter socket (for GPS), and alternator was missing. Looks like a fuse, but I drove in w/o issue.
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I like that jack stand mod. I might do that with 1/4" plate across the whole bottom of the stands. Thanks for the idea.
Andrew
I dunno about you, but I have this crap under my gravel, and I'd think that a smooth bottom may slide around. I'm going to weld up a set with the angle down all the way around.
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ok, i gotta ask, did you paint your freakin brakes? like the disk and all?
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ok, i gotta ask, did you paint your freakin brakes? like the disk and all?
That is an excellent idea. I wanted to paint them red, but I ran out of high temp red. Maybe this weekend ! I did coat the mating surfaces of the hub to pinion arm (Could not remember the proper name of the chunk of steel that ball joint, strut, tie-rod end, and wheel hub bolts too) , disc to hub, brake bracket to pinion arm, etc with Never Seize.
On the Jack stands, I thought of the 1/4" plate too as I have a nice chunk, but I too was worried about sliding. The 2" wide angle iron gives a lot of surface area so it will not sink, but also allows some grip so it doesn't slide. If I was going to use it on sand, I think I'd do the plate but have it recessed so the legs still bite about 3/8" for when you're on uneven gravel like mine (it has a crown and slopes towards the garage.)
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Could not remember the name
(http://gizmodo.com/assets/resources/2007/12/brass_knuckle_mug.jpg)
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Could not remember the name
(http://gizmodo.com/assets/resources/2007/12/brass_knuckle_mug.jpg)
OMG... i want one of those. lol.
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Could not remember the name
OMG... i want one of those. lol.
The kid that got beat up on the bus yesterday needed them !! http://www.stltoday.com/stltoday/news/stories.nsf/illinoisnews/story/60D37B6EC5FF4711862576320011605B?OpenDocument (http://www.stltoday.com/stltoday/news/stories.nsf/illinoisnews/story/60D37B6EC5FF4711862576320011605B?OpenDocument)
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Had a problem yesterday on the way to work... gradually lost boost and power. By the time I got to work, power settings that should have shown 5 -6 psi were barely moving the needle off zero. There was a strange sound at high rpm and partial miss-firing. The sound was similar to that of a pressure washer. By the time I left for home, absolutely zero boost and the power of an old tired NA rabbit with the A/C on ;-) Of course this was made worst by the now 15" tires I'm turning up front. 65 was max speed WOT and it took miles to get to that speed... My worst case thought was the cheep porthe turbo had seized causing the back pressure to make the sounds and reduction in power. Got home and put my hand near the turbo - I felt a substantial leak. Bummer. Had to sleep on this. This morning I found that all 4 of the nuts holding my custom turbo / manifold flange to the manifold had come loose. In fact, one had fallen off and another would have fallen off if it was not for the turbo bolt behind it preventing this. I could not get a nut on the manifold stud, but I put more red lock-tite on the other 2 studs and really tightened the 2 nuts. The bottom nut on the drivers side I could not touch.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/110_5344.jpg)
WOW !! I have boost again. 8 - 10 psi easy. Must be they were working loose for some time. I'm considering just TIG welding that flange to the manifold tonight to eliminate another possible leak. If I do, I'll take the chance to dis-connect the waste gate servo line :-)
This also makes it very clear that if you have an NA, you can get considerable more free power (same fuel burn) by putting a turbo on it and thus having an eco-diesel.
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i had to make a mount that went from my exhaust flange to my engine block. my flange used to come loose every few weeks. then i made the mount. i have ran it thousands of miles without loosening.
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i had to make a mount that went from my exhaust flange to my engine block. my flange used to come loose every few weeks. then i made the mount. i have ran it thousands of miles without loosening.
What does your mount look like? Notice I made one from my down pipe to the engine block. Maybe I need another?
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its a chunk of 1" steel stock about 6-8 inches long with a right angle bend on the end and a hole. yea, exhaust flange, downpipe, whatever you wanna call it, same thing. i welded it to that. just takes the flex out of the exhaust. and since my exhaust system is made from 2.5 inch flex pipe, i have some serious flex.
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its a chunk of 1" steel stock about 6-8 inches long with a right angle bend on the end and a hole. yea, exhaust flange, downpipe, whatever you wanna call it, same thing. i welded it to that. just takes the flex out of the exhaust. and since my exhaust system is made from 2.5 inch flex pipe, i have some serious flex.
Maybe I get some aircraft nuts (with the wire holes drilled in them) and safety wire the 4 nuts so they can't viborate loose. Welding seems so much easier though and it only changes the manifold, no my turbo.
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I had issues with my turbo bolts working loose on my old stock turbo/manifold.
once on the trip to anchorage from homer all four bolts fell out and the turbo was held in only by the oil lines!
I was pulling vacuum and smoking like a freight train for close to 150 miles.
I ran extra long bolts through and put nuts on the protruding ends, then I tack welded the nuts to the bolts and problem solved!
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I had issues with my turbo bolts working loose on my old stock turbo/manifold.
once on the trip to anchorage from homer all four bolts fell out and the turbo was held in only by the oil lines!
I was pulling vacuum and smoking like a freight train for close to 150 miles.
I ran extra long bolts through and put nuts on the protruding ends, then I tack welded the nuts to the bolts and problem solved!
Homer ?? !!!! WOW. I had a friend who was a world traveler (brain surgeon / radiologist) who firmly holds Homer as his most favorite place on earth !!
Anyway, great approach. it would certainly be easier for me to tack weld the nuts rather than weld the entire flange to the manifold.
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yep, and that way if you need to remove it sometime you can take a grinder to the tack welds and then disassemble.
I love Homer too, grew up there, wish I could stay but there is no work.
I am going to school in Anchorage(230 miles away) and head down to visit Homer whenever I can.
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It looks like I'm going to have to weld more than just the TC mounting bolts... these engine mount bolts had lock-tite AND nylon locking nuts, but this is the 3rd time they vibrated loose. I have to tighten the anti-torque mount bolt to the firewall for the 3rd time too. The front anti-torque mount my brother and I installed fractured. Photos to follow of that repair. here's the mount -
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/110_5385.jpg)
NEXT problem, someone tried to steel my Garmin specific GPS cradle from my diesel while my family was in Life Time Fitness. Glad they realized it was very specific, but they cause some other damage too - They apparently tried to yank my instrument cluster. It was moved. When I started for work this morning, SERIOUS electrical problems, so I turned off the alternator. After a few hours at my first meeting, I noticed the alternator switch had melted !!!! The car always gets locked now...
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so what about when you wanna take it apart? you kinda have to destroy the bolts. its kinda just a less permanent solution to welding the turbo on?
and wow, 4 posts since i tried to post this little piece.
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so what about when you wanna take it apart? you kinda have to destroy the bolts. its kinda just a less permanent solution to welding the turbo on?
and wow, 4 posts since i tried to post this little piece.
Like Truckinwagen suggests: grind them off, so yes, destroy the bolt. I'm not going to weld the turbo on, but rather the bolts that hold the turbo to the flange, and the nuts that hold my flange to the manifold. I might weld the flange onto the manifold for a perfect seal.
As far as grinding, I have an air powered 3" or is it 2 3/4" cut off wheel. It cuts through any grade bolt rather quickly. Besides, sure cheaper than something breaking from one of these letting go on a trip to Florida or other distant locations she will travel.
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ok, i gotta ask, did you paint your freakin brakes? like the disk and all?
That is an excellent idea. I wanted to paint them red, but I ran out of high temp red. Maybe this weekend ! I did coat the mating surfaces of the hub to pinion arm (Could not remember the proper name of the chunk of steel that ball joint, strut, tie-rod end, and wheel hub bolts too) , disc to hub, brake bracket to pinion arm, etc with Never Seize.
On the Jack stands, I thought of the 1/4" plate too as I have a nice chunk, but I too was worried about sliding. The 2" wide angle iron gives a lot of surface area so it will not sink, but also allows some grip so it doesn't slide. If I was going to use it on sand, I think I'd do the plate but have it recessed so the legs still bite about 3/8" for when you're on uneven gravel like mine (it has a crown and slopes towards the garage.)
Could not remember the name
(http://gizmodo.com/assets/resources/2007/12/brass_knuckle_mug.jpg)
Knuckle lol
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Could not remember the name
OMG... i want one of those. lol.
The kid that got beat up on the bus yesterday needed them !! http://www.stltoday.com/stltoday/news/stories.nsf/illinoisnews/story/60D37B6EC5FF4711862576320011605B?OpenDocument (http://www.stltoday.com/stltoday/news/stories.nsf/illinoisnews/story/60D37B6EC5FF4711862576320011605B?OpenDocument)
My heart goes out to that kid, as I was once he :( Funny running into the bullies 15 years later, I love being 6'8" at 300lb :o
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Attempted to tighten the anti-torque engine mount and found it had shattered !!!
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/110_5443.jpg)
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/110_5444.jpg)
I'll have to remove it this week end and make it much stronger at those stress points. So, short term I dragged my 300# TIG welder up the gravel drive way to stick weld the broken front anti-torque so I could get to work... I wanted a little more clearance from the lower water pump hose.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/110_5445.jpg)
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/110_5446.jpg)
Not the best weld, but seems to work for getting down the road today. I'll have to remove this one too and beef it up too.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/110_5448.jpg)
I also tried to find the damaged wire from the attempted theft of my gauges.. thought I had it, I also re-wired the Chevy alternator as it was putting out 17v - 18v !! No change, so it will need to be replaced. Good thing it has a lifetime warranty.
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how are you going to make an anti torque mount work on an engine that has nothing but torque?
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how are you going to make an anti torque mount work on an engine that has nothing but torque?
LOL !!! LMAO !!! Yes, good question indeed. It would probably be technically correct to call it the side Torque mount :-)
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these diesels rock like a mofo. back and forth. you would need a shock absorber instead of a solid mount you would think. the higher horse cars ive seen with the side torque mount, it has been a shock absorber. all the normal ghetto cars ive seen with them are just a gay crappy piece of metal bracket. honelstly i would consider a Vw a high power engine. just from the amount of torque they can produce.
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what about a high durometer rubber puck sandwiched between 2 steel cups? Like the old muscle cars.
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what about a high durometer rubber puck sandwiched between 2 steel cups? Like the old muscle cars.
That's almost what I made - I have several pieces of thick radiator hose cut into pucks with a hole drilled in the middle for the bolt to go through. When I remade the mount, I really tightened the bolt compressing the pucks too much. Man, when that engine started the entire firewall and everything attached to it shook too !! At first I thought something had come loose inside the engine. A look under the hood revealed it was idling normally. So, this morning before work I loosen the bolt a bit more than a turn. That help quite a bit, but there is still vibration translating to the steering column and everything else. Here's my mount saga. It now weighs about 3x what it did before. Here's the damage - it broke in four pieces:
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_5449.jpg)
and it bent quite a bit during the bake-up:
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_5450.jpg)
Here's the part that went to the differential housing, taking most of the torque.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_5451.jpg)
I decided to weld the bracket that goes to the differential housing to the bracket that goes from the firewall to the bell housing.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_5453.jpg)
Turns out, the bending had more effect than thought - the hole for the differential bolt was about 1 cm off. I used the TIG torch to heat the bracket and bend it back some. They I seriously gusseted it on both sides so it would not fracture from the stress of bending / stretching the metal.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_5458.jpg)
Also, my new alternator had increased its voltage to 18 volts !! It caused some damage to my ECM (many body functions including the wiper motor goes through the ECM.) I have a spare someplace in my garage... but the nice folks at Autozone warranty exchanged my alternator (I bought the one with life time warranty)
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_5459.jpg)
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Your metal is too thin. The vibrations are work hardening it also, you are welding too hot and too fast. All these small things are combining to make it fail. After you weld a piece going to a high vibration area, you need to heat the part, then let it slowly cool. In our shop we have an annealing oven, and we heat the part up (if wifey doesn't mind I'd max it out in the oven) then shut the oven off and let it cool overnight in the oven. This will relieve the molecular stress and it shouldn't work harden.
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Your metal is too thin. The vibrations are work hardening it also, you are welding too hot and too fast. All these small things are combining to make it fail. After you weld a piece going to a high vibration area, you need to heat the part, then let it slowly cool. In our shop we have an annealing oven, and we heat the part up (if wifey doesn't mind I'd max it out in the oven) then shut the oven off and let it cool overnight in the oven. This will relieve the molecular stress and it shouldn't work harden.
You could be right. I used to work in metallurgy, but it was super alloys and high end stainless steel. I had not thought about the heat treating... What temp do you anneal mild steel at? Seems to me it would be in the 800 - 900 F range ??
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for our late model dirt track stuff we have taken it to 1600...I don't know if it would work with less, but it works there so we keep doing it. The other method was several hundred heating and cooling cycles before we took it out of the jig. By that I mean keep it in a heated garage and quickly once a day for all winter take the chasis outside when below freezing, then back in again after about 30 minutes. The brick oven works alot better though :D
I bet 900 would do.
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most of the stuff we do is the 830* range, as we use a lot of standard structural steel. For the high carbon stuff its down around 750. There is a guy in Auburn hills who makes knives IIRC he has an oven. He also is a car nut, he was at Waterford hills a few times for the Tour D'Elegance. You could phone the gun club there as someone is bound to know him.
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for our late model dirt track stuff we have taken it to 1600...I don't know if it would work with less, but it works there so we keep doing it.
Ерфе Sorry, wifey's Ukrainian keyboard. 1600 would be close to melting so it would heat treat it to "Austinite" phase. Not sure on the spelling, but basically all the crystals disappear as it is almost melted. When it cools, completely new crystals from. So, the forged crystals the original steel had would be gone. Usually this is as soft was you can get a piece. If you oil quench it, it gets lots harder. Sounds like macka does it at 830 - definitely annealing to relieve the stresses.
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A reader of this forum commented to me today how bad my luck has been with one thing after anther failed... I replied I thought enough things had been replaced as new that I thought it was very very reliable such that next month I will use my IDI powered caravan to pull our camper to Cedar Point with my 13 year old son and his friends.....
Well, that's what you get when you temp carma, fait or what every you call it.... On the way to a company function, I started out on a main road in Dearborn MI (tow away) and as I neared the shift point of 1 -2 shift, pop. The trans jumped out of gear with a small sound. Not quite a pop, but definately an abnormal sound. Humm, It had done this at the begining of 3 rd gear several times, but never 2 nd... I tried again for first - My FF trans did nothing. No abmornal sounds, but no drive. I tried every gear with the same results including reverse... Humm, sounds like my differential have poped. As I pushed it back off the main street (my 4 way flasher are in-op since the 18V alternator fried the ECM) a fellow worker I've never met offered to help me push it off the street completely and on to Ford property where the cops would not mess with it. Did I ever mention how Ford is like a family? Its true. I double checked that the shifter linkage was pushing and pulling the shifter properly. It was..... Good thing I came back from Haliburton ON with an 020 trans :-) I hope it is good.
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sounds like a shifter fork issue
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sounds like a shifter fork issue
That is my first guess because there is no grinding sound or any other abnormal sounds coming from the gear box - its simply like its in neutral. The shifting lacks the forces it used to take to move it into gears. The First and OD gears were hard to shift into in the begining, and the first gear never got easier, so there likely was a fault in the fork assembly from the begining.
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This weekend I started to swap the FF trans for the 020 I had. First I prep. the 020 - fluid flush, removing the newer style mounts and shifter linkage, cleaning it up, and removing the CV joints and the 6" of shifts that came with it, next I started to remove the FF - linkage, starter, torque mount, drivers CV joint, next.... next... next .....
The passenger CV joint had hand grenade !! I put the trans in gear and spun the engine by hand - the differential is transmitting the torque to the CV flanges !!! My guess is I could not hear the axle shaft slipping in the broken CV because of the diesel sounds....
Next I cleaned up and removed the CV from the partial axle I just removed from the 020. Tonight I hope to have it back on the car.
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Last night I finished installing the half shafts with the replaced CV. When I removed the CV, in the boot there was a spacer ring for the spline. I was guessing it was below the CV, but I could not get it to properly go there, so I put it on top. Anyone have experience with this?
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_5482.jpg)
The splines had slightly different spacing:
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_5478.jpg)
Here's the toasted CV
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_5476.jpg)
I also re-installed the starter and tested the trans in gear after I got the car back on the ground !! HAS GEARS ! So, a slight mod to the torque engine mount to allow larger rubber spacer with more flexibility so the firewall does not vibrate apart. Reconnect the shifter cables / mounts, install the air filter / turbo IC loop and test drive.
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I missed this thread and I wanted to see how the CV are holding up?
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For $50 I found my old roomy an 89 gas 4dr Jetta with a 'blown tranny', 150+core later...
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I missed this thread and I wanted to see how the CV are holding up?
So far so good. I was worried about putting that washer on the wrong side of the joint. I should lift it this weekend and check all the bolts and check the joints.
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Last night I finished installing the half shafts with the replaced CV. When I removed the CV, in the boot there was a spacer ring for the spline. I was guessing it was below the CV, but I could not get it to properly go there, so I put it on top. Anyone have experience with this?
I had this happen only when using new washers. I always end up reusing the old ones. With the CV on the shaft I couldn't get the circlip on even by hammering on with a flathead screwdriver (the circlip not the CV).
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Last night I finished installing the half shafts with the replaced CV. When I removed the CV, in the boot there was a spacer ring for the spline. I was guessing it was below the CV, but I could not get it to properly go there, so I put it on top. Anyone have experience with this?
I had this happen only when using new washers. I always end up reusing the old ones. With the CV on the shaft I couldn't get the circlip on even by hammering on with a flathead screwdriver (the circlip not the CV).
Where did you put the washer ? Next to the cir-clip, or on the other side of the CV joint?
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Last night I finished installing the half shafts with the replaced CV. When I removed the CV, in the boot there was a spacer ring for the spline. I was guessing it was below the CV, but I could not get it to properly go there, so I put it on top. Anyone have experience with this?
I had this happen only when using new washers. I always end up reusing the old ones. With the CV on the shaft I couldn't get the circlip on even by hammering on with a flathead screwdriver (the circlip not the CV).
Where did you put the washer ? Next to the cir-clip, or on the other side of the CV joint?
I always put it between the shaft and CV. The circlip directly against the CV. The dished washer is there to prevent the CV from moving on the shaft. As long as everything it tight, you're ok.
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Last night I finished installing the half shafts with the replaced CV. When I removed the CV, in the boot there was a spacer ring for the spline. I was guessing it was below the CV, but I could not get it to properly go there, so I put it on top. Anyone have experience with this?
I had this happen only when using new washers. I always end up reusing the old ones. With the CV on the shaft I couldn't get the circlip on even by hammering on with a flathead screwdriver (the circlip not the CV).
Yeah, that's what I thought... since I was using slightly different years on the CV, it worked out that the washer under the circlip was tight, being a compression washer. I have one more spare. Hopefully I will not need it for years to come. This one gave warning of failure when the boot failed and I did not replace it right away.
Where did you put the washer ? Next to the cir-clip, or on the other side of the CV joint?
I always put it between the shaft and CV. The circlip directly against the CV. The dished washer is there to prevent the CV from moving on the shaft. As long as everything it tight, you're ok.
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How is the van ARB?
And where have you been? Any updates
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How is the van ARB?
And where have you been? Any updates
Like you in Ohio, I've been freezing my parts off ;-) The diesel is running strong. The inner (VW) CV joint I replaced a few months ago failed again just before Christmas. It appears I must have put the compression washer on the wrong side of the joint. Working for the Blue Oval, I was out of work for the Christmas break. It was too cold to fix, so I waited until Jan 2 to replace it with another used joint. This one I did a very good job of cleaning and repacking. Its boot looks better than before. I have driven it every day since then with no problems, other than no heat in the cabin. I think my Dodge heater controller requires more VAC than my old pump puts out, so the hot water valve never opens. We have a 3 day weekend tomorrow and its going to be above freezing, so I'll track that down. I have photos of the CV job, but have not posted them yet.
Otherwise, very happy with the 40 mpg I've been getting going 70 mph.
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I need to check my MPG as it appears its gotten better than 40 mpg. I calulated I should have had 3 gallons or so when I filled up for the first time this year - turns out it had 12 gallons in the tank ( I ran out on my way home the first week this year)
Here are the photos for the second CV replacement.
Broken CV
<a href="http://s533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/?action=view¤t=100_5610.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/th_100_5610.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket" ></a>
used donor CV
<a href="http://s533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/?action=view¤t=100_5611.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/th_100_5611.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket" ></a>
replaced back on shaft, this time with the compression washer on the shaft side of the CV. It is under conpression now. I had to use a drift pin and brass hammer to get the cir-clip on the end of the spline.
<a href="http://s533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/?action=view¤t=100_5612.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/th_100_5612.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket" ></a>
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WOW..... just......... WOW :o, I just read all of the way through this thread, from the beginning. AWESOME! this is great stuff arb. Keep up the good work, I hope that I can acquire half of the skills that you have amassed, in my lifetime. This is just encouragement for keeping up my build.
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Thanks man :-D It has been very fun for me. I used to turn wrench for a living, but computers and then computer security became my bread and butter.
Somethings I have learned - these engines last a life time, or at least a couple generations. The German engineers (I have worked with mercedes-benz dudes) are very good at design. The second thing, slap a turbo on one of these without boost enrichment and all that black smoke my Rabbits used to spew at full throttle becomes extra power w/o extra fuel consumption. And, lastly, 400 hp is really fun, but not required to get you to and from work. 70 - 90 hp is plenty for my 4000 pound car with manual steering :-p
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very nice write up man, iv always wated to put a TD in a caravan!
you shud post some pics of the van!
cheers.
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I think I post one of it in the snow, and a few partials of it. Its a second gen caravan who's only 3 attributes were - It was from Virginia so no typical Michigan salt induced rust, it was paid for years ago and was only $400 or so, and it has a factory stick !!
I need to bump all the dents and put a decent paint job on it this summer. Then I'll post some pics.
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Where in VA, I'm from there, Franklin CO. "moonshine capitol of the world ;)" we do tend to be a bit rough on the body
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Where in VA, I'm from there, Franklin CO. "moonshine capitol of the world ;)" we do tend to be a bit rough on the body
I think it was Franklin Co !! Some Russian guy brought it up here to Michigan.
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*quickly checks in the mirror*....... *relieved sigh* No, wasn't me. Good stuff though, small world.
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Well, my third inner right used CV joint failed Wednesday. The diesel was doing great until I was almost at work Feb 3... I even took a car load of people to the auto show 2 weeks back... So, I just got off the expressway at Rotunda and stopped at the light. When it turned green, I tried to go and there was the tell-tale pop sound and slight lunge of the CV joint failing. I shutdown, and checked under the hood - same one as the past 2 times - both were used ones I had laying around the garage. Maybe I will pop for a new one this time... Just as I was looking under the hood, Dearborn PD had pulled up behind me. Crap, I had no money for a tow truck, and if he wanted to be a hard a--, he could have said "Are you calling the wrecker or am I" - since he would have had too, it would have been a police impound costing at least double and being twice as hard to get out...
Lucky me, he asked if I wanted him to push me down the road to a Ford owned land :-D YES !!!! Its a large sun flower field next to the proving grounds. When parked, he asked if he could give me a ride !!! He was now in Allen Park (some very unfriendly cops there) and I realized I forgot my iPhone that morning... so he took me to work in the front seat of the squad car.
I had one more compete used shaft rapped in plastic. Hummm. Maybe I save the cash for now..
I removed the offending shaft
<a href="http://s533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/?action=view¤t=100_5639.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/th_100_5639.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket" ></a>
and found the end of the spline had no more place for a Sir Clip.
<a href="http://s533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/?action=view¤t=100_5640.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/th_100_5640.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket" ></a>
So I decided to install the last used CV I have as I would weld it to the end of the spline - maybe the other 3 failed due to the Sir Clip coming off. It took quite a bit of blows from the brass hammer to get it on. I had to use a socket to tap it all the way on the spline.
<a href="http://s533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/?action=view¤t=100_5642.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/th_100_5642.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket" ></a>
One possible problem - only 250 pounds of argon left !!! Should be enough.
<a href="http://s533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/?action=view¤t=100_5644.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/th_100_5644.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket" ></a>
Here is it all welded up.
<a href="http://s533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/?action=view¤t=100_5645.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/th_100_5645.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket" ></a>
YIKES !!!! I did not try to locate the failed Sir Clip !! I hope it was not stuck in the grease on the trans hub !! I'll have to search the wreckage tonight. It could be in the boot or with the failed CV.
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That is awesome that he helped you out. I hope you figure out the CV eating problem. It wasn't at that bad of an angle to constantly be killing these is it?
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That's actually pretty neat, it's nice that cops help out every now and then. After all they're supposed to be public servants..........
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That is awesome that he helped you out. I hope you figure out the CV eating problem. It wasn't at that bad of an angle to constantly be killing these is it?
Well, that's the intersting thing - that CV that kept popping is the one with the least angle - its less than 10 degress almost all the time. The wheel CV's are both moving through 90 degress and the other inside is about 30 - 40 degress at times.
So far the welding must have resolved this issue. Must have been a failing C-clip.
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Well, my final used CV joint popped shortly after I left for work this morning. Time for a "new" CV joint....
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hi arb, glad to see that the popo helped you out. (it's actually their job ;D). sorry to say though that I don't have any cam baffles. is the oil coming out the breather hole on top of the valve cover? ;)
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hi arb, glad to see that the popo helped you out. (it's actually their job ;D). sorry to say though that I don't have any cam baffles. is the oil coming out the breather hole on top of the valve cover? ;)
Yes, its a very fine mist coming with the blow-by gasses. I'll probably weld up an external aluminum oil separator this weekend.
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Yes, that is what I am doing. I am going to use my dial indicator to true them in the car rather than v-blocks. I'm not looking for speed beyond 75 mph.
I like inner CV joints on the VW better than the Chrysler version, mainly due to the way they bolt to the trans rather than slipping into the transaxel. The Chrysler wheel bearing assembly is designed for higher loads, though.
While the idea of splicing the axles is cool, there is an easier solution. The first iteration of the Dodge Omni / Plymouth Horizon had a 1.7L VW engine. This was mated to a 4-speed VW (Chrysler code A412) transaxle. The axles used were VW bolt-into-the-trans on one end, and Chrysler splined stubs on the other. These allowed the VW transaxle to work with the standard Chrysler hubs. These hubs are the same as whats on the first generation Caravan.
According to the Advance Auto web site, the 1.7L engine was an option on the Omni from 1979-1983, the axles are described as such:
Part number: 603004 "CV Half-Shaft Assembly: Remanufactured; Front; Left; With Manual Transmission (Vw-A412) Transmission; Chrysler Corporation "Sales Codes" Are Found On The "Body Code" Plate."
http://www.partsamerica.com/product_images/img/a1c/603004.jpg (http://www.partsamerica.com/product_images/img/a1c/603004.jpg)
Part number: 603005 "CV Half-Shaft Assembly: Remanufactured; Front; Right; With Manual Transmission (Vw-A412) Transmission; Chrysler Corporation "Sales Codes" Are Found On The "Body Code" Plate."
http://www.partsamerica.com/product_images/img/a1c/603005.jpg (http://www.partsamerica.com/product_images/img/a1c/603005.jpg)
Granted, these are $75.00 each, but they are new and shiney! Hope this helps someone. BTW, awesome project!
Well, I had the mis-forture of playing 'Freeway bumper cars" on I-696 with a woman in a Grand Marquee last week. She decided to merge into my lane and did the bump and grind without stopping. The state police took notice that she failed to stop. Looks like Michigan "no fault" insurance will get me $500 for her transgressions. Good thing I was quick to get her plate # and the guys behind me ;-)
The very next day after the MSP looked at my car, the final used CV I had installed, this time with TIG help rather than C-clip, took a poop on my way to work. So Friday I ordered the reman half-shaft. It came today, but they did not order the 60-3005 like I wanted. The bad news is, today it came in and was the wrong part. Good news is I didn't pay for it, so they will return it. Bad news is they can't get the 60-3005 as it is too rare. Good news is, AutoZone says they can get it. Bad news is, $95 including core and tax. Good news is I'll have a shiny newish one with new bearings and boots in a few days :-)
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Well,, the 60-3005 half-shaft Autozone got me with a life time warranty was not exactly what I need. The flange that bolts to the trans has 3 of the 6 bolts on a different spacing. might mark the flange on the trans and drill the 3 odd holes in it so I can use nuts & bolts. I don't think 3 bolts of this size will take the torq we have, understanding the torq is supposed to be transmitted by the friction of the 2 plates bolted together. Here is the new shaft and what my bolt pattern looks like: ( Ideas anyone ?
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_5661.jpg)
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/100_5660.jpg)
Nice thing other than warranty, is the cover to keep stuff out of the joint.
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those omni axles?
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can you swap out the old piece on the new end?
If not I think your idea of drilling works. Use the old for the template and you should be good to go. On a side note. Those stupid triple square bolts weren't made hard enough at the head and I think when I put my jetta back together I am going to use the 12.9 SHCS
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can you swap out the old piece on the new end?
If not I think your idea of drilling works. Use the old for the template and you should be good to go. On a side note. Those stupid triple square bolts weren't made hard enough at the head and I think when I put my jetta back together I am going to use the 12.9 SHCS
Yes, its for an Omni. Yes, the triple square are not what I will use for 2 reasons - Yes they are not strong enough, and they are way too long for this thin flange. There was a note in the box that it is an after market part so it looks different than OEM but will do the same job. Hummm. At least I have a new part rather than reman. And they will likely loose money on life time warranty.
I can't drill this new CV flange as it is too thick at the spot where the triple square bolt would go, so I'll have to drill the flange that is on the trans. It will be on the car and I'll be laying on my back in the snow, but its 40 degrees today so I'll not complain.
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get some omni flanges?
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get some omni flanges?
Do you think the Omni trans is fully VW other than the bolt pattern on the flange ? I have not seen and Omni here in a very very long time. Not even in a bone yard.
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Started to replace the shaft last night... it is quite a bit shorter than what I had:
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/th_100_5662.jpg) (http://s533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/?action=view¤t=100_5662.jpg)
But at least the wheel side is the same:
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/th_100_5663.jpg) (http://s533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/?action=view¤t=100_5663.jpg)
So I decided to cut the shaft and add an internal tube / shaft.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/th_100_5681.jpg) (http://s533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/?action=view¤t=100_5681.jpg)
I looked all over my shop for a chunk of steel 1 5/16" O.D. but could not find one...
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Well, I was pressed for time last week and only used 3 grade 8 bolts as the other 3 bolt holes I drilled in the trans flange did not align with the CV end. Because it had been sitting in michigan's humid air, the brakes were a bit rusted and when I tried to drive to work, they failed and it growned and shuttered. Tomorrow I see what broke.
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My lovely diesel is my daily driver again !! Here's what happened. The new right half-shaft inner CV joint popped out of the cup and twisted the boot ripping it. It has a very different design from the VW shafts (this was the suggested 60-3005 shaft used on specific Dodge Omni (1.7L manual w/o spring loaded ends))
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/diesel/th_100_5772.jpg) (http://s533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/diesel/?action=view¤t=100_5772.jpg)
Here is the design - it uses 3 ball bearing wheels in a cup. That's why the bolts are a different pattern.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/diesel/th_100_5774.jpg) (http://s533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/diesel/?action=view¤t=100_5774.jpg)
Turns out, the failure was completely my fault. Not understanding how the new design was made, I felt the travel was longer than it really was and made the shaft more than 2" too long, allowing the joint to come out of the bucket the first time torque was applied. Rusty brakes didn't help either. So I cut the old weld and installed the shaft, this time compressing the suspension on that side and marking the shaft with only about 3/8" before bottoming out. I also found out how hard the steel is in the flange - my drill bits could not opening the new holes I drilled w/o dulling. So I got a grinding bit for my Dremal tool and got the 3 new grade 8 bolts in, in addition to new shorter cap screws to replace the now too long triple square bolts.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/diesel/th_100_5837.jpg) (http://s533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/diesel/?action=view¤t=100_5837.jpg)
While I was at it, I installed my new oil separator - My oil drips on the parking lot should now go away.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/diesel/th_100_5710.jpg) (http://s533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/diesel/?action=view¤t=100_5710.jpg)
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those are a really common(especially with newer cars) inner joint.
I am not sure if they are superior to a CV or not, but they dont seem to like high angles like a CV joint does...
my neon uses that style joint, and they are for sure easier to service(but when they fail they really fail!) although there is little warning before they go boom(no clicking for a while to tell you something is wrong like a CV will)
glad to see you figured it out, and hopefully you will be back on the road for a long time before you break down again.
-Owen
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those are a really common(especially with newer cars) inner joint.
I am not sure if they are superior to a CV or not, but they dont seem to like high angles like a CV joint does...
my neon uses that style joint, and they are for sure easier to service(but when they fail they really fail!) although there is little warning before they go boom(no clicking for a while to tell you something is wrong like a CV will)
glad to see you figured it out, and hopefully you will be back on the road for a long time before you break down again.
-Owen
The new shaft is on my right side which has almost zero angle at the inner, unlike my drivers side, which has maybe a 15 - 20 degree angle all the time. That one is maybe 26 -30 years old. Its outer boot just started to throw grease through a crack, so its time to pull it and figure out how to take apart an outer CV joint.... any one done this ?
On my oil separator - it and the new shaft are working GREAT ! My oil loss has gone to zero. Next refinement will be to connect the rad fan to power for the first time, and then maybe install an inner cooler. Last summer I had a few boiling moments in stop & go freeway traffic.
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I need to do a measured MPG test (remember I have no working Dodge instruments - odometer, fuel gauge, etc) - I filled it up yesterday and it had way more fuel in it than I estimated it should with my estimated 40 mpg from the first few months of driving it... Something that has changed, when I put this new (used but resealed for WVO) pump on, my throttle cable began to stick a little at the half way point. The throttle arm of the IP does not stick, so its on the Dodge side. If I hold full throttle for a few, it will go to full throttle, but I seldom do this. The acceleration became about what my first Rabbit NA was SLOW. So, I'm obviously not burning the fuel I used to.
Time to measure (my Garmin will give me accurate miles).
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My daily driver didn't today... Was just about to pull on to the freeway when my oil pressure dropped below 20 psi !! I pulled over and saw dripping. I have a leak. I'm guessing turbo supply or return line. I added the 2 quarts I had in the car, and limped the 3 miles home, hyper-mileage style coasting (engine off) most of the way.... Maybe the rain will end and tonight I can find the leak.
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Man this thing is nothing but problems eh Arb? It sucks because it happens, but its good because it happens to someone it is not going to be a crippling blow to lol. you know?
Hope you get it all solved out and running tip-top-shape :)
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Man this thing is nothing but problems eh Arb? It sucks because it happens, but its good because it happens to someone it is not going to be a crippling blow to lol. you know?
Hope you get it all solved out and running tip-top-shape :)
Yeah, its a bit of a pain because when its running, it is soooo good. Especially the mpg. With all the new parts, I'm getting closer to a new ride with each new part ;-) Most people I know would have thrown in the towel long ago. I just LOVE these engines, though.
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Couldn't have happened to a better person! Every time I see an old Caravan, I kinda laugh to myself and wonder if it has axle problems. Then I think of how cool a diesel caravan is ;) You redefine MINI-VAN and make it cool. lol
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Couldn't have happened to a better person! Every time I see an old Caravan, I kinda laugh to myself and wonder if it has axle problems. Then I think of how cool a diesel caravan is ;) You redefine MINI-VAN and make it cool. lol
Thanks Jeremy !! This summer if this these systems stablize long enough, I'll be looking to customize the body and paint it. Not sure exactly how yet, but the head liner and seats will be part of it... Maybe something to do with changing the rear hatch and both bumpers to something metal.
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I filled the pan with oil, checked that there was no oil in the coolant, started the engine and could not find any oil leaks.. I noticed a small leak at the coolant line on the oil cooler, and my rear anti-torq engine mount had broken on the firewall mount. Since I still had not fixed the broken front mount, my engine would have been flopping back and forth quite a bit. I noticed a lot of fresh oil on the "K" frame (the reason this platform is called a K car) just below the turbo... nothing dripping while. So I pulled the front mount and cleaned it. After I fix both mounts I'll run it to operation temp and check again for a leak.
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The oil leak was the drain line to the turbo. The short rubber hose split when the rear anti torque mount failed, this time on the firewall, allowing the engine to roll back pushing on the turbo drain. There's only an inch or two between it and the "K" frame.
This shows the new hose between the elbow and the steel tube as part of the flange on the turbo.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/diesel/th_100_5848.jpg) (http://s533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/diesel/?action=view¤t=100_5848.jpg)
Here is how the mount broke..
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/diesel/th_100_5838.jpg) (http://s533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/diesel/?action=view¤t=100_5838.jpg)
Here is how I changed it - I have a stack of 3 or 4 layers of radiator hose at all 3 unions of the mounts / bolts.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/diesel/th_100_5840.jpg) (http://s533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/diesel/?action=view¤t=100_5840.jpg)
I decided to modify my large vise by welding a wing on it to clamp my welding ground to. Works great.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/diesel/th_100_5841.jpg) (http://s533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/diesel/?action=view¤t=100_5841.jpg)
Here is the mount for the firewall after it has been expanded. The bolts have been welded to the mount as well so I can install / remove without someone's help on the other side to hold a wrench
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/diesel/th_100_5845.jpg) (http://s533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/diesel/?action=view¤t=100_5845.jpg)
Here is the bottom and how it is much stronger - there is a plate welded to the bottom so there is about 3/8" of steel welded inside and out.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/diesel/th_100_5846.jpg) (http://s533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/diesel/?action=view¤t=100_5846.jpg)
Here is the oil separator on the firewall.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/diesel/th_100_5849.jpg) (http://s533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/diesel/?action=view¤t=100_5849.jpg)
I also changed the cooling system a bit ( 210 - 215) . I was over heating a bit during stop and go traffic on the expressway - speeding to 75 mph and then stopping, over and over creates a lot of heat. I found that my lack of heat in the cabin last winter was due to lack of coolant flow through the heater core, and therefore lack of flow through the oil cooler. It could be I was boiling some coolant in the oil cooler because of this. I ran my head line directly to the oil cooler, with a "T" for the VW expansion tank. I also connected one of my aux power switched on my new instrument panel to the Rad fan for when I'm stopped. Never got above 205, and was usually at 195 - 200 this morning. Very happy about this as camping season is almost here. I did have a little bit of coolant drips on the ground when I stopped at work, under the radiator cap area... I think the cap is not sealing correctly.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/diesel/th_100_5851.jpg) (http://s533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/diesel/?action=view¤t=100_5851.jpg)
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EIGHT DAYS !!!! 8 DAYS !!!I MADE IT 8 DAYS !!
Did someone say they have a spare good 12mm 1.6L head available ? So, today I drove it hard in stop & go traffic on the I-696 speedway. This means one minute you are racing full throttle to 70 mph, the, just as your engine temps are soaring, come to a full stop for the gawkers to look at who knows what, then back to 70 mph again. And so it repeated for 2 hours straight, then a brief stop before returning home. Made it 5 miles in the stop & go and noticed the temp steadily climbing through 228 F. Stopped in a hood north of Detroit, noticed some coolant on top of the valve cover. Humm. No apparent leak. Checked the oil, a bit more than a quart low. Topped it off, let the engine cool off, opened the rad & expansion tank. They were about 1.2 quarts low. Topped them off. By now, I was at 160 F. Started the engine and turned around. Then I noticed a trail of coolant !!! Killed the engine, popped the hood. More coolant on the valve cover. Started this cold engine - immediately the expansion cap became a slow fountain as combustion gasses pushed coolant out the cap, killed the engine, stopped immediately. Restarted engine, fountain again. Crap.
I knew the head was on borrowed time after a failed what every caused it to warp twice and I honed it flat twice... Just wish the first time I had used studs rather than the throw away stretch bolts. The $199 they want for a full stud set would have paid for itself by now.
Time to maybe get a new head or one w/o cracks. The lower end looks so good, I'll pass on overhaul for now.
At least there was a little old lady working on her porch where I parked it. I asked her if I could leave it there over night. She looked at me funny and demanded "What do you want" in an eastern accent. I asked her "Paruski ?" and her face lit up and asked me if I spoke Russian too, in Russian. So I shouted to the car "Wifey, Eaddee Seada!" which means come here... turns out she is also Ukrainian. Go figure. The car will still be there tomorrow night, probably under guard !
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My wife is asking me to justify replacing the head… so,
Of last 386 days, 254 days running (36.3 weeks) and 132 days down time.
Each week, I drive 450 miles in my commute. This car has cost $1,184 in diesel, the replacement car cost $3,518 in gas, so it has saved me $2,334 in real money this past 13 months.
Here are the details boiled down to events:
Aug 12 2008 build start
April 27 2009 first daily drive
237 days to build
May 26 2009 first head gasket due to hose failure - no thermometer
30 days running
June 2 2009 fixed
8 days repair
June 12 2009 - defective new head gasket
10 days running
June 18 2009 - defective thermostat seal
June 24 2009 all fixed, back on road
12 days repair
July 6 2009 bent alternator bracket - fixed same day
July 22 2009 - only old hose failed
29 days running
July 27 2009 - fixed hose
5 days repair
July 28 2009 - head warped from hose failure w/o thermometer
1 day running
Aug 10 2009 back on road
14 days repair
Aug 24 2009 Injection pump leaked
14 days running
Aug 31 2009 back on road
8 days repair
Sept 1 2009 - IP bolt loose - fixed same day
2 days running
Sept 3 2009 damaged timing belt - still driving
Sept 8 2009 fixed belt
Sept 16 2009 boost problems - fixed same day
Sept 24 2009 new alternator defective - replaced same day
Setp 25 2009 front engine mount failed
24 days running
Sept 27 2009 fixed
2 days repair
Sept 29 2009 CV joint failed
2 days running
Oct 8 2009 fixed as well as some loose bolts
10 days repair
December 23 2009 used CV failed
77 days running
Jan 5 2010 fixed
14 days repair
Feb 23 2010 used CV failed, ordered new
50 days running
March 20 2010 - fixed
March 20 2010 -new failed
April 5 2010 fixed
42 days repair
April 13 2010 - oil leak due to engine mount failure
9 days running
April 29 2010 fixed
17 days repair
May 4 2010 - head gasket / head crack
6 days running
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I hope that you get it fixed for "good" this time. BTW there are ARP studs in the for sale section 100.00 new in box shipped in US. If I didn't already have mine they wouldn't have been there :D
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I think I'll pull the engine and overhaul it to be sure I'll be good for years :-) Only reason, my oil pressure starts at 100 psi and after its a full temp has gradually dropped to 40 psi at speed, and only 15 psi or so idle, so the fuel pump or bearings are aging.
THANKS !! I NEED the studs !!!
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Reading at the head port, 10 psi per 1,000 rpms is great oil pressure. It sounds like you're doing even better than that. No need to rebuild based on those pressure.
Thanks Andrew. I remembered higher on my last rebuild, but it was not turbo ;-) When I pull the head, if the lower end still looks good, I'll only replace the head.
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With my 36mm oil pump I had about 45psi without a turbo, I added the turbo and it didn't change, then I removed the turbo and it still didn't change.
Probably if the oil pump is big enough and the bearings are good then it shouldn't change with or without a turbo.
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Still searching for a good head... The post I had asking if anyone had done business with Klaus with his $555 new hydro 12mm heads was removed. He did not want anyone outside his town looking for heads from him. Oh well. Partsplaceine will sell one for $44 more, with warranty.
I even asked Prothe what he wants for a complete head, but he must be too busy to answer.
Would like to drop the dine tomorrow so I'll be driving again asap.
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smokey eddy had good luck with prothe's aaz head. If you would be doing your own porting, i wouldnt worry to much about casting marks as you could remove them yourself eh?
Would you consider a 1.6/1.9!? LOL
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smokey eddy had good luck with prothe's aaz head. If you would be doing your own porting, i wouldnt worry to much about casting marks as you could remove them yourself eh?
Would you consider a 1.6/1.9!? LOL
How true.. so the casting marks were the complaint with his heads ?
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I believe so, that and many think because its coming from china.. that its going to be of lesser quality then a German head... Why? Chinese/Japanese engines take some abuse from there users as well dont they? ;)
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I believe so, that and many think because its coming from china.. that its going to be of lesser quality then a German head... Why? Chinese/Japanese engines take some abuse from there users as well dont they? ;)
My only concern with a China IDI head is what alloy they used for the prechambers. I can see them using just steel and them not lasting 30 years.
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ahhh. there is a good point. Grab a few from a known good source and put them in ??? lol.
I think after the cheap head, precups, and your time porting.. your still cheaper then a German head no? i really have no idea though.
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ahhh. there is a good point. Grab a few from a known good source and put them in ??? lol.
I think after the cheap head, precups, and your time porting.. your still cheaper then a German head no? i really have no idea though.
I'm leaning toward German if I can find one with no crack ( I know they can run years with cracks between the valves, but why not start clean when my wife says to fix in once and for all ?) if not, I think I can trust the Topline heads cast in Brazil and the rest assembled in Florida. VW setup alot of manufacturing in Brazil.
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I'd suggest prothe only as a last resort to get it back on the road for under 5 years. ;)
Good luck with this (hopefully final) fix :P
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Just found I can get a complete turbo hydro head ( Topline ) for $587 shipping including from westendengineparts.com ..... looking like my best bet as there don't appear to be any used ones w/o cracks.
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Arb, I have an "Alabama Cylinder Head" reman head on the BlueMule, it has 100 + k miles on it. It was reasonably priced and of good quality. The cracks between the valves were welded up, and the prechambers were replaced. Not all of the valves were replaced, but as long as the margins are good there would be no need to replace them. It was flat and again I had no problems at all. Anyway food for thought. I had to call and give them the casting # off of the head, as they do not list this particular head on the website.
https://www.alabamacylinderhead.com/productlist.php (https://www.alabamacylinderhead.com/productlist.php)
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If they are custom making these I wonder if they would do it in Ductile or some other iron :D
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Would you consider a 1.6/1.9!? LOL
I was so focused on finding a 1.6 head new, I missed this !!! Yes, as long as I'm replacing the head, I should keep my option wide open :-) Time to dig deeper.
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All of your 1.6 head stuff will swap over. Eddy bought a bare AAZ head off prothe and swapped over all the 1.6 stuff from the best of my knowledge anyhow. lol
It would be BEAST. Give you some extra ponies while your in there anyway eh?
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Are you fairly close to the USA/Canada border?
You could try these guys: Heinz garage 205 Wyandotte Street East, Windsor, ON N9A 3H5 - (519) 256-8161
http://www.heinzgarage.net/about_us.html (http://www.heinzgarage.net/about_us.html)
They are very close to the Detroit/Windsor tunnel. Its a VW, Porsche, Audi, & Mercedes garage.
I bought a german head they had sitting around a few years back ($200, no cracks between the valves, intake and exhaust manifolds included). At the time they were just looking to get rid of all the old IDI parts they had sitting around.
Another local shop with a bunch of parts cars sitting around:
All Cars 2580 Manning Road, Tecumseh, ON N0R 1K0 - (519) 979-4721
These guys are further from the border (half an hour at the most). However, I wouldnt expect any great deals.
I dont know where my Jetta with the 'new' head ended up. However, I was beating the snot out of towards the end so the head is quite possibly little better than scrap.
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Are you fairly close to the USA/Canada border?
You could try these guys: Heinz garage 205 Wyandotte Street East, Windsor, ON N9A 3H5 - (519) 256-8161
http://www.heinzgarage.net/about_us.html (http://www.heinzgarage.net/about_us.html)
They are very close to the Detroit/Windsor tunnel. Its a VW, Porsche, Audi, & Mercedes garage.
I bought a german head they had sitting around a few years back ($200, no cracks between the valves, intake and exhaust manifolds included). At the time they were just looking to get rid of all the old IDI parts they had sitting around.
Another local shop with a bunch of parts cars sitting around:
All Cars 2580 Manning Road, Tecumseh, ON N0R 1K0 - (519) 979-4721
These guys are further from the border (half an hour at the most). However, I wouldnt expect any great deals.
I dont know where my Jetta with the 'new' head ended up. However, I was beating the snot out of towards the end so the head is quite possibly little better than scrap.
Thanks Matt - yes, I can almost see Windsor from our parking lot ;-) I'll check them out... They don't have a used one, and they quoted me $1,500 CAD for a new head...
I just pulled the trigger on a new AAZ head loaded from Prothe, including new 155 bar injectors with mercedes nozzles. Hopefully I'l have good luck like Smokey Eddie when he got a head from Pete. The goal is to get back on the road asap. After I pull the head this weekend, I'll pull the trans and see if I have a 200 or 210mm clutch. I know its at the edge of its service life, so this is a good time to swap it. Out the door with a HG and 12mm bolts, new cam baffle, head, 4 injectors, and shipping $596.20 USD.
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I have 2 "pretty good" 1.6 clutches left over from my N/A and Turbo engines. The one in my N/A I was going to run until I realized I maybe making too much power. Pressure plates and discs look fine. I could ship both to you and let you decide :D PM.
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Wow, Smoking Eddie said it took 3 weeks before Prothe sent him his head... :'( Looks like I'll be burning gas like a drunken sailor for a while now. Then, it sounds like the new injectors might have issues out of the box. :-( Hummmm. At least I have 2 sets of new OEM injector heat shields so I can reuse my old injectors if the "new" ones are not good. Time will tell. So, should I pull the head, then just the trans (going to do the clutch now too) ?? Or, just pull it all at once ? :-D
I've got some time now. Enough I could hot tank the block (Yeah, I'm sold school on that) and swap rings & bearings while I'm waiting for the head and stuff. If I pull the package, I'll be more likely to do the lower end while I'm waiting.
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I really don't think the Merc nozzles are a good idea, IMHO...
I'm 90% sure I saw Giles saying they'd be bad mojo with the VW swirl chamber. From what I understand the Mercedes chamber is a very different size and shape than the VW ones. Makes sense - an idling IDI Merc sounds a lot different than a VW. Also I think there's been people who've blown out their prechambers with Merc nozzles.
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I think it was Dave (935racer) who ran both stock and merc nozzles on the dyno, and lost ~5hp, IIRC with the merc nozzles. I see the some of the europeans mention biodiesel nozzles as being better, but I'm not sure which number those are, or what makes tham better. I believe Giles swears by the stock nozzles, although I do recall seing mention of a GTD nozzle as well.
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I think it was Dave (935racer) who ran both stock and merc nozzles on the dyno, and lost ~5hp, IIRC with the merc nozzles. I see the some of the europeans mention biodiesel nozzles as being better, but I'm not sure which number those are, or what makes tham better. I believe Giles swears by the stock nozzles, although I do recall seing mention of a GTD nozzle as well.
Yup, from what I've read stock nozzles can flow plenty and it's the right spray pattern.
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I think it was Dave (935racer) who ran both stock and merc nozzles on the dyno, and lost ~5hp, IIRC with the merc nozzles. I see the some of the europeans mention biodiesel nozzles as being better, but I'm not sure which number those are, or what makes tham better. I believe Giles swears by the stock nozzles, although I do recall seing mention of a GTD nozzle as well.
Yup, from what I've read stock nozzles can flow plenty and it's the right spray pattern.
I'm glad you guys spoke up. I just asked Pete to change my new injectors to stock 1.6L TD injectors.
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Arb, you're just the person to build your own injector tester from a bottle jack and replace your own injectors.
FWIW, I get the earlier TD nozzles from autohausaz.com and rebuild them to the *low* end of the pressure spec for best fuel economy.
I use the DNOSD293 nozzles which were spec'd on some vw IDI TD engines and yet are quite inexpensive:
http://sd.autohausaz.com/autohausaz/detailw.jsp?sid=3vjolwfmvksbhdytprkjh155&partner=autohausaz&product=0434250103 (http://sd.autohausaz.com/autohausaz/detailw.jsp?sid=3vjolwfmvksbhdytprkjh155&partner=autohausaz&product=0434250103)
After buying the four nozzles you still have to toss in an oil filter just to meet the $50 free shipping. ;)
Thanks Andrew ! There was nothing wrong with my current injectors that I know of. I only ordered new as I thought, new head, new injectors would not harm anything.
I'll have to search for how to make the tester w/ the bottle jack. Maybe the 12 ton that runs my U-joint press will work for that too.
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Bummer, I'm back looking for a head again. Pete (Prothe) just sent me a message he is refunding my $$$ as he is out of stock on the head.
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I'm running a set of DNOSD273 "GTD" nozzles in my D24T in my volvo, they came from prothe and I have ahd good luck with them so far. I also talked to Giles, and he said the stock TD and GTD nozzles both perform well, but the GTD nozzle seemed to make more power in a application with the fuel turned up or with a built pump. As for economy, I gained a couple mpg after rebuilding my injectors, but i set them a little above the TD specs. Mine are all around 2400 psi. I have never heard of building them at the lower end of the spectrum for better economy, but then again I was looking for performance gain. The extra MPGs were just bonus for me...
Jason
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I just got Prothe to refund the 4 merc injectors too. when the credits hit, I might drive up to partsplaceinc and get a new Brazilian made loaded new 1.6L hydro head for $600.
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I just got Prothe to refund the 4 merc injectors too. when the credits hit, I might drive up to partsplaceinc and get a new Brazilian made loaded new 1.6L hydro head for $600.
When to buy the "new" hydro head from Partsplaceinc and they wanted to charge me another $150 for a "Core deposit" - I questioned whether the head was really new if they needed a core back. He said sure it was new.. I asked what would happen if I brought them a mechanical head back as the core - he said they likely would give me half the $150 :-( Did not sound very trustworthy to me... so I took a gamble with Prothe - Ordered new hydro head, lifters, valves on a Friday, he shipped on Monday, and 6 days after I ordered the parts were here. His valves are actually made in Taiwan. The head looks to be of good quality. I need to buy a new cam shaft as that's one thing he did not have. Photos to follow.
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:) nice work
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Any updates on how it went?
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Many delays in both getting parts and school ending for my son. So, I got the hydro head, hydro lifters, valves, HG, head bolts, clutch disc, throw bearing, and a single injector - somehow I only ordered 1 injector and forgot to order the valve stem seals, so another order when out and has been received.. Here's the photos of the parts from Prothe:
The head casing and machining look good.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/diesel/th_000_0038.jpg) (http://s533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/diesel/?action=view¤t=000_0038.jpg)
The runners at the valve seat could be a bit better
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/diesel/th_000_0039.jpg) (http://s533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/diesel/?action=view¤t=000_0039.jpg)
But the casting roughness is localized at the valve end
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/diesel/th_000_0041.jpg) (http://s533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/diesel/?action=view¤t=000_0041.jpg)
The cam bearings look really good.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/diesel/th_000_0042.jpg) (http://s533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/diesel/?action=view¤t=000_0042.jpg)
Machining looks good too:
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/diesel/th_000_0040.jpg) (http://s533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/diesel/?action=view¤t=000_0040.jpg)
The hydro lifters were packaged well and felt good.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/diesel/th_000_0037.jpg) (http://s533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/diesel/?action=view¤t=000_0037.jpg)
The injectors were not made in China, but rather Taiwan. Hopefully they will not leak like some of you have found. You can also see the valve stem seal.:
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/diesel/th_000_0043.jpg) (http://s533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/diesel/?action=view¤t=000_0043.jpg)
I'm realistically looking at a couple of weeks before I have the engine out and the old head off - I am planning on reusing the springs, spring seats, and clips from the old head...
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My Prothe NA injectors have been fine so far. No leaks or other problems. Thanks for posting your report on the head. I've been thinking of ordering one.
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My Prothe NA injectors have been fine so far. No leaks or other problems. Thanks for posting your report on the head. I've been thinking of ordering one.
I ordered the 155 bar stock turbo injectors, hopefully I'll get the same results as you.
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Those injectors look much nicer than the ones I got from him a year or two ago. Looks like he might have changed suppliers!
Do you have any way to pop test them? Would be interested to know what the spray/pop accuracy was like.
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Those injectors look much nicer than the ones I got from him a year or two ago. Looks like he might have changed suppliers!
Do you have any way to pop test them? Would be interested to know what the spray/pop accuracy was like.
Wish i had a way... can anyone one on our lost do this for a fee ? And adjust them for an additional fee if needed ?
-dave
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My Prothe NA injectors have been fine so far. No leaks or other problems. Thanks for posting your report on the head. I've been thinking of ordering one.
Looks like I spoke too soon. A week or two ago I noticed one of my new injectors starting to weep a bit. Today when I was almost home I started getting a really bad knock from one cylinder which would come and go, and lots of smoke. I'll know tomorrow when I pull the injectors, but it looks like one of them has gone bad. I've got less than 1000 miles on these injectors, as I live on a small island and can't drive that far.
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My Prothe NA injectors have been fine so far. No leaks or other problems. Thanks for posting your report on the head. I've been thinking of ordering one.
Looks like I spoke too soon. A week or two ago I noticed one of my new injectors starting to weep a bit. Today when I was almost home I started getting a really bad knock from one cylinder which would come and go, and lots of smoke. I'll know tomorrow when I pull the injectors, but it looks like one of them has gone bad. I've got less than 1000 miles on these injectors, as I live on a small island and can't drive that far.
Bummer... Since no one said they'd be interested in testing my Prothe injectors (for a fee)I'll simply run them as is until they fail... in the mean time, Giles already said he's rebuild my OEM injectors with new nozzles so I'll hopefully have reliable replacements before needed. Back to cleaning out the garage so there is room for this head job :-)
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Update: I let the car sit overnight, then started it the next morning. It made a few little knocks, then ran fine. It's been fine for a couple of days now, so now I don't really know what to think??
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Update: I let the car sit overnight, then started it the next morning. It made a few little knocks, then ran fine. It's been fine for a couple of days now, so now I don't really know what to think??
What have you got to loose by driving as is, where is ? Your island looks like a very cool place outside Vancourer :-)
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I plan to continue driving it and see what happens. I just don't know what could have caused it to stick like that for maybe 5 minutes of running?
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My Bosch rebuilds weren't any better...
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My Bosch rebuilds weren't any better...
What was your experience?
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One sticky injector right off the bat, coming and going for the first several drives. Worst of it cleared up on it's own but I still have a phantom random idle - sometimes it idles low and very rough, other times high and smooth. I never had that issue on the old injectors... waiting on my injector tester to come in the mail to see just what's going on.
Chris
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I've been rather lazy this summer installing my new Porthe head. I have the had partially build. I made an aluminum plug for the extra oil return hole. I used high temp epoxy gel to make it completely sealed. I cleaned the hole and the plug with acetone before gluing them. Here's what it looks like:
Cutting the plug:
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/diesel/th_105_5953.jpg) (http://s533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/diesel/?action=view¤t=105_5953.jpg)
The plug, gel and head:
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/diesel/th_105_5954.jpg) (http://s533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/diesel/?action=view¤t=105_5954.jpg)
Post glue:
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/diesel/th_105_5956.jpg) (http://s533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/diesel/?action=view¤t=105_5956.jpg)
Next I started to remove the old springs from the old head, but my old school valve spring remover would not quite compress them enough, so I bought some steel stock to make this style of compressor that DieselRcool of Gig Harbor, WA on vwdieselparts.com :
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/diesel/th_VW_valve-spring-compressor.jpg) (http://s533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/diesel/?action=view¤t=VW_valve-spring-compressor.jpg)
I have new heat shields, the new Porthe 155 bar injectors (with a little never-seize on the threads) installed, just waiting for the springs and keepers from the old head / old valves.
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Just wondering how the van was doing. Any updates?
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Just wondering how the van was doing. Any updates?
Well, I started making my valve spring compressor when my bone head next door neighbor started up again complaining to the village that he does not like my yard. When I pointed out to the code inspector that none of his complaints (Over grown bushes) were actually code violations, nor anywhere near the conditions of my other neighbors within eye sight and stone's throw from mine. So, he came back will an official complaint "It has come to our attention that you have a hot tub that was installed w/o a permit. So, 24" trench was dug to show the line was ran to code, permit have been paid for, but not actually issued, the tub is empty... so, I've been way to distracted and not happy I am buying our lovely 10% ethanol gas to get to work (no choices any more in Michigan)
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Done with fighting the code inspector... back to putting the Porthe head together :-) Need to get cracking before the code inspector notices my next project in my yard - Just got a 2002 Land Rover Freelander in exchange for some labor as its timing belt broke. My wife wants me to make it diesel.... some reasearch shows its the only land rover that is NOT a real off-road ride. Hummm, many options there.
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shame about your neighbor i know that stuff can get really ugly, hope u have it all resolved
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I made a little progress building the valve spring compressor. Then, I got a red sticker last week on the Freelander in my drive way. So, I had to drag it to the street, pull the caravan into the street, and then push (with a chain) the Freelander into the garage and push the caravan back in front of the garage. At least I got to pass on some old farmers knowledge to my 14 yr old son - that is how to push a car with a chain :-) Now I'm parting out the land rover before I can put the hydro head on my mechanical 1.6 block. I'd forgotten how fun it is to totally take apart a car and sell the parts for more than the whole is worth.
At this point two things are clear -
1) I should have waited for Porthe to get the fully assembled hydro head back in stock.
2) if they never returned to stock, I should have stopped by a MAC or Snap-on truck and purchased the OHC spring compressor.
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LOL
that is great you figured out what is clear.
Hope you get it on the road soon...wouldn't want a 1.9 to rebuild for the next van would you? :D
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LOL
that is great you figured out what is clear.
Hope you get it on the road soon...wouldn't want a 1.9 to rebuild for the next van would you? :D
:-D Maybe, I was thinking of a TDI for the next project... My lovely wife wants me to diesel a real Land Rover rather than another minivan ... but a 1.9 might do the trick. You're not that far away. It would give me an excuse to see your fantastic AF museum ! Every time I've gone to Ham Feast, I've thought I should swing by the AFB. They have my favorite plane of all time - P-38
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Today was fuel systems day.. Here is the stock supply, vent, and return side:
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/102_4508.jpg)
I ran new supply side lines of sealed 5/16" coated lines, here you see the aluminum foiled protected line..
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/102_4513.jpg)
One of the strange things I completely disagree with the Chrysler engineer with is the tank filling tube seal. It is a rubber grommet that has no compression other than that of the fill tube that is rammed into it.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/102_4511.jpg)
Here you can see the vapor and return lines. Notice the vapor lines are capped. The EPA would freak is this was a gasser. More on this later...
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/102_4512.jpg)
Next is the very out dated Leaded fuel blocking port. Now, tell me, how long do the gasser people need to pay for this feature ? It has been illegal to sell leaded gas in the USA for decades.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/102_4514.jpg)
Here is the free flow of fuel oil thanks to a sharp wood chisel...
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/102_4515.jpg)
Next was the EPA anti top-off ball. This had to go...
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/102_4517.jpg)
fuel oil does not evap like gasoline, and it can foam much more, so it had to go !!!
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/102_4518.jpg)
Lastly, since the vapor recovery system is of no value in a fuel oil system, I need a way for the air to fill the void from the used fuel oil... the stock cap is air tight, must go..
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/102_4519.jpg)
Got a PM today about the filler neck conversion. Here's how I did it. Completely happy with how it works. Even the truck stops with the extra large ring at the end of the nozzle fits in the tank.
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LOL
that is great you figured out what is clear.
Hope you get it on the road soon...wouldn't want a 1.9 to rebuild for the next van would you? :D
:-D Maybe, I was thinking of a TDI for the next project... My lovely wife wants me to diesel a real Land Rover rather than another minivan ... but a 1.9 might do the trick. You're not that far away. It would give me an excuse to see your fantastic AF museum ! Every time I've gone to Ham Feast, I've thought I should swing by the AFB. They have my favorite plane of all time - P-38
I was partial to the P-47, but always loved the armament setup of a P-38. And no doubt you know the top aces in the USAAF (Bong and McGuire) used what the Germans called "der Gabelschwanzteufel" (the forked tailed devil), even though they both served in the Pacific.
And nice work on the installation.
Stay safe, stay well. Jimmy.
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I need nozzles for my EcoDiesel. Are these Autohaus Bosch nozzles German and are they the right ones for my car? Anyone bought these recently and how good are they?
Arb, you're just the person to build your own injector tester from a bottle jack and replace your own injectors.
FWIW, I get the earlier TD nozzles from autohausaz.com and rebuild them to the *low* end of the pressure spec for best fuel economy.
I use the DNOSD293 nozzles which were spec'd on some vw IDI TD engines and yet are quite inexpensive:
http://sd.autohausaz.com/autohausaz/detailw.jsp?sid=3vjolwfmvksbhdytprkjh155&partner=autohausaz&product=0434250103 (http://sd.autohausaz.com/autohausaz/detailw.jsp?sid=3vjolwfmvksbhdytprkjh155&partner=autohausaz&product=0434250103)
After buying the four nozzles you still have to toss in an oil filter just to meet the $50 free shipping. ;)
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I think they're india or france but they are probably the best ones that are actually gettable.
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French nozzles are NLA :( I just had to settle for a set from india for my 1.6TD. The quality looks good, but time will tell.
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JG what bosch # nozzles did you get? dno sd 293? dno sd 297?
arb, sorry for the thread hijack. How's the engine rebuild going?
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JG what bosch # nozzles did you get? dno sd 293? dno sd 297?
arb, sorry for the thread hijack. How's the engine rebuild going?
No worries :-) Its all good... Then engine build will get more time this weekend. That Land Rover in my garage is getting boned out so I hope to cut up the unibody this weekend so I can focus on the real engine :-D
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http://www.learn-how-to-weld.com/mig-welding/
http://www.5min.com/Video/Learn-How-To-Weld-170918437
http://www.millerwelds.com/resources/articles/Master-MIG-welding-GMAW/
http://www.profabricationtechniques.com/mig-welding/
what welds should look like
(http://www.profabricationtechniques.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/mig-weld-tube-to-plate-angle.jpg)
(http://www.profabricationtechniques.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/01/beadspacing-300x148.jpg)
(http://www.profabricationtechniques.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/01/lower_case_e_welding_style-300x148.jpg)
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And your point is???
http://www.learn-how-to-weld.com/mig-welding/
http://www.5min.com/Video/Learn-How-To-Weld-170918437
http://www.millerwelds.com/resources/articles/Master-MIG-welding-GMAW/
http://www.profabricationtechniques.com/mig-welding/
what welds should look like
(http://www.profabricationtechniques.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/mig-weld-tube-to-plate-angle.jpg)
(http://www.profabricationtechniques.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/01/beadspacing-300x148.jpg)
(http://www.profabricationtechniques.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/01/lower_case_e_welding_style-300x148.jpg)
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And your point is???
why don't you read the URLs out loud and then get back to me ;)
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I think if your going to bash someones welding capabilities.. At least do it nicer? Jesus.
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ARB knows his welds are not pretty, he will be the first to tell you..
atleast he tries..
not everyone was brought up in an aluminum fab shop next to a millermatic 250 like i was..
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When a person fabs ALL their own ***.. I don't think it matters if the welds are pretty, if they work who cares?
Kevin, some childhood eh? If only we were all so fortunate! :)
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When a person fabs ALL their own ***.. I don't think it matters if the welds are pretty, if they work who cares?
Kevin, some childhood eh? If only we were all so fortunate! :)
pfft, you should see some of the welds ive done on exhaust systems over the years.. i mean HIDEOUS looking welds.. but they worked, and didnt leak.. thank god there under the car, out of sight..
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Go scrappy!!
I have a buddy who welds together his own bikes (as in pedal bikes) - crazy choppers. His welds SUCK. But after a few years they keep getting better and better. In the end he's the only one that shows up for a ride on a bike that he built himself from chunks of metal, and in the end I can't say I've done that. I also can't say I've tucked a VW engine into a Dodge Caravan.
We all have our own ways of doing things within the skills we've managed to pick up along the way. I don't weld for a living, nor do I wrench for a living. I don't go in to people's homes and bash them for the way that things are maintained or whatever, thankfully I picked up some civilization amongst those skills I've learned.
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And your point is???
why don't you read the URLs out loud and then get back to me ;)
The guys above me said it all...we don't need your negativity.
Now lets get this thread back on track...
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Aye. I just appreciate the fact that arb takes the time to document and share. He certainly doesn't have to; but he does. As soon as that donate-a-beer version of paypal gets up and running.... ;D...I'll be sending some.
Andy
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Yeah, you guys said it, most of my welds look like Kakashka (Russian for excrement) but they all survive diesel viboration stress. Some look great for an inch or so, but I am self taught on welding. If a weld does not look like it will hold for years, I spend the time and money to replace it. So far, knock on wood, none of my welds in this or my aluminum utility trailer has failed including the engine mounts I welded.
Now, last problem I had was the RT front tire was rotten and one of the lugs I installed was a standard nut for a steel wheel and I could not get it off. I tried everything including heat and pounding a 6 point deep well socket on it slightly smaller. So, I finally used a hole saw to cut the nut...
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/diesel/th_101_6676.jpg) (http://s533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/diesel/?action=view¤t=101_6676.jpg)
Next I had to remove the nut's core.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/diesel/th_101_6678.jpg) (http://s533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/diesel/?action=view¤t=101_6678.jpg)
next I chased the threads with a die.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/diesel/th_101_6679.jpg) (http://s533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/diesel/?action=view¤t=101_6679.jpg)
So, a quick check of the block waiting its new head -
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/diesel/th_101_6677.jpg) (http://s533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/diesel/?action=view¤t=101_6677.jpg)
Now back to chopping and selling the fake land rover in the way of repairs -
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/diesel/th_101_6680.jpg) (http://s533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/diesel/?action=view¤t=101_6680.jpg)
Thanks for the kind words all !!
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ARB, you are awesome, keep up the good work man. 8)
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Head replacement to restart with new blood.... my 15 year old son wants to buy the car from me as I will not "give" him a car even if I win the Lotto (every kid I've seen who gets one w/o skin in the game trashes it)... and besides, I just traded my wife's Smart car for a new TDI - WOW, huge car with a real 50.4 mpg....
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sweet. Glad you still are keeping it going.
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I must say, other then if parking is limited, I always thought the smart car would have been better named the dumb car. poor mileage, awkward lug pattern, no space. Whats so smart about it?
give me a 3cyl vw tdi hybrid and 4x100 wheels ANY day.
shoot if vw made the smart car even with its small interior room it might have been cool to see in the states, two seats, 150mpg, and could park anywhere?
even better would be a multi fuel setup where it could run on just about anything you put in the tank, wvo wmo, gas, kerosene, or a mixture of any of those, or a propane bottle for kicks
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Yes, I always thought it was funny that in 1976 when Vw came out with the diesel option for Rabbits it was rated at something like 60 mp(imperial)g here in Canada. Granted, it was abit slow, but it would carry four people and their luggage in relative comfort. 25 years later the "Smart" car was introduced, rated at 70mpg but only carrying two and maybe a briefcase. You'd think automotive engineering would have come a little further in 25 years. ARB, keep us posted on your progress w/ the van. This is one of the most interesting threads on here!
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The Smart diesel we could only see across the river in Canada was not too bad - 75 mpg (us) and faster than the gas version we had (40 mpg US.) Both are actually rather roomy inside. More than a for Festia or the like, but only 40 mpg on a 1.0L ? Yeah, the Festia with twice the room got that and cost about the same. Only got the Smart because my Ukrainian wife wanted it. That was good enough for me ;-)
Started back on the head replacement - looks like I'll have to finish making a valve compression tool as I could not find one on Prothe's collection of tools. Does anyone know where I can just buy the tool these days? Maybe MAC or Snap-on? I need this ride back in service.
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The Smart diesel we could only see across the river in Canada was not too bad - 75 mpg (us) and faster than the gas version we had (40 mpg US.) Both are actually rather roomy inside. More than a for Festia or the like, but only 40 mpg on a 1.0L ? Yeah, the Festia with twice the room got that and cost about the same. Only got the Smart because my Ukrainian wife wanted it. That was good enough for me ;-)
Started back on the head replacement - looks like I'll have to finish making a valve compression tool as I could not find one on Prothe's collection of tools. Does anyone know where I can just buy the tool these days? Maybe MAC or Snap-on? I need this ride back in service.
It's easy to make if you have a woodworkers bar/pipe clamp. Glue a washer to one end (same size as the valve face), and tack weld a slotted tube to the other end of the clamp.
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Yeah, I started to build one, but at this point if I can just buy one, that works for me.
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do you have a drill press? goodson sells a cool adapter that you can just use your drill press
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http://www.goodson.com/CF-15-150_Diameter_Valve_Spring_Adaptor/
49.99 for this and they seem to work in a drill press, they sell them in 1.0 1.25 1.5" size otherwise cheapest they sell is like $200
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I made one from a deep socket in less than a 1/2 hour.
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I could see an oxygen sensor socket being used also if you have a 3/8" extension. use them in the drill press like that tool billybobf mentioned.
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shoot, an o2 socket and a small 3/8 stud shoved in the back if its not a through hole (or has a smaller hole), as that should fit in even the smallest of drill presses
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Yesterday I used my MK1 strut nut tool to pull the valves on a single cylinder Triumph. It worked well enough for a one time thing.
Chris
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Yeah, I have a drill press that I've used on this project over the years, but the 2 axis clamp is a pain to reset once it's removed.... so you convinced me to finish the tool I started to make. :-D
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Arb, these are the folks I buy my VW and Porsche tools from, you can get the pieces separate, or maybe just get the adapter and use something to compress the spring.
http://www.baumtools.com/search/index.php
#s 2036, 541/5 and 541/1 I believe these are the ones you want, but call to be sure.
BlueMule
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Thanks BlueMule... this will help. Said teen age son is not quite out of school yet so I have not cornered him in the shop yet...