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I'd use it if my neighbor had it and left his garage unlocked..................
I've switched many high mileage engines to synthetic and have never had it cause a single leak, ever.  I'm convinced that's a myth. 

It meets CF rating.  Would I use it?  It depends on which engine.  I have 5 vehicles with AHU and ALH engines and would not use it in any of those as it does not meet spec for them.  I have two other vehicles that it would meet the spec on ('79 rabbit, '85 gasser vanagon) and I'd be ok with using it in either of those. 
MK2 Golf/Jetta and Audi 5k / Re: Would You Use This Oil In Your Diesel Engne??
« Last post by ORCoaster on May 20, 2018, 11:17:45 pm »

My diesel is so old I would have leaks all over the place I fear.  Besides that I don't see where that oil is actually made for all the soot that is part of the diesel burn process.  The Rotella Diesel formula is what I use and buy when it goes on sale for 13 bucks a gallon locally.
IDI Engine / Re: 1.6 TD reliable performance build
« Last post by ORCoaster on May 20, 2018, 11:09:20 pm »
To route the fuel lines forward could you not just run them with a 90 degree bend along the frame support and get them to come up in front of the passenger strut housing?  Then do the filter in the space there to the fender.  I am looking at something like that for my Caddy intake as well.  Filter has to move to make room for big rubber hose.  And the air filter.   
User's ride Wall / Re: 1991 VW Golf GTD intercooler
« Last post by Ice_ken on May 20, 2018, 04:36:34 pm »
The rear beam was still a stock one, drums and no anti roll bar...So decided to build a G60 one:

sandblasted and powdercoated:

new everything:

the spec:
-G60 axle
-girling 38 calipers
-G60/gti rear discs + OE brakepads
-brandnew everything, hardware, brakelines,...the whole lot.

OEM new grille:

New wheels, axle installed:

So as you might have noticed the car was without licenseplates on the last pictures...I stopped driving it about 3 years ago, I bought another VW to drive daily. Yes this was my daily for about 2 years.

So a few moths ago, I wanted to put the interior back to more or less OEM and get it back on the road...
leather G60 steering wheel, black high quality floormats, golfball shifter, OE radio.

passed technical inspection last friday after 3 years of sitting. Soon to be on the road again.
User's ride Wall / Re: 1991 VW Golf GTD intercooler
« Last post by Ice_ken on May 20, 2018, 04:23:24 pm »
enginebay fully complete:

not much boost for the moment:

wetsanded and polished:

Area where I live:

failed waterpump

clucthed pulley on the alternator and new waterpump

Mocal oilcooler:

went for G60 brakes rather then the 8V brakes:

Chapel of the muur @ Geraardsbergen, hometown. Cyclists will know this place:

version 2.0 clutched alternator pulley on a new alternator (failed bearings)

New Hella headlights:

new doorhandle, old one broke:

IDI Engine / Re: 1.6 TD reliable performance build
« Last post by mcpook on May 20, 2018, 04:19:40 pm »
I can shoot some pictures of it if anyone is interested

I'm interested in pics of the vac pump mason bleeder.  Details on what pump you used would be great too.

I almost finished the brake system.  Replaced the rear brake lines and installed the new bench bled master cylinder and reservoir. 

Installed the engine by sliding it in the engine bay and lifting from below.  Seemed to work ok. 

Noticed a couple fitment issues that will likely need some modification.  Turbo to air intake is kinda tight near the fuel lines and the passenger front brake line.  Brake line should bend down out of way pretty easy, but those fuel lines will need to be relocated methinks. 

The alternator mount bolt circled in red threads through both lobes of the alternator and likely will hit the subframe when I try to remove it.  I'll likely just deal with a re-engineering the next time it needs removed.

The axle may clear the oil return line, but it looks close.  Axle installation day will shed more light on that.

The most troubling thing I discovered was a pile of aluminum shavings by the lower crank cover.  There were more shavings, but I wiped the easily accessible away before photo documenting.  I am not sure what caused those shavings but there was definitely some binding I discovered maybe 6 months ago when I tried to manually turn over the engine that I attributed to letting the engine sit too long and perhaps developing rust in the cylinders.  Now it's apparent that it was not rusty cylinders causing a difficult revolution, but binding from somewhere around the crank seal plate.  The plate may have been from a later model gasser that I assumed  would match up.  Something obviously didn't clear--although after pushing the crank to and fro for an hour, it spins free now.  Anyone encounter a similar issue?  I will pull the lower cover to investigate further where those shavings are originating and whether it merits addressing. 

Engine is installed though and that feels like a big milestone.  Hooking up and adjusting shift linkage, drive train, clutch, wiring and cooling system will resume after Memorial Day.

User's ride Wall / Re: 1991 VW Golf GTD intercooler
« Last post by Ice_ken on May 20, 2018, 04:08:51 pm »

GTI exhaust:

more small pieces, attention to detail:

oil change after break in:

new parcelshelf

Original splashshield for alternator belt inside the front grille:

new alternator and new wiring

votex console with vdo gauges; oil temp, oil pressure, boost and voltage.

@ meet up:

User's ride Wall / Re: 1991 VW Golf GTD intercooler
« Last post by Ice_ken on May 20, 2018, 03:56:27 pm »
I then decided to fix some small rust issues, turned into a full respray and G60 exterior  ;D

17" wheels:

more parts:

repaired and replaced the headliner:
User's ride Wall / Re: 1991 VW Golf GTD intercooler
« Last post by Ice_ken on May 20, 2018, 03:43:14 pm »
bought more parts

redid the frontclip, painted gloss black, new lock + catch, new stickers, bolts etc, nice and new.

Dynamatted the entire car, expensive but worth the money.

cars and coffee

got married in this car

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