VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.
Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: riddleyo on June 05, 2008, 10:49:07 pm
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Last November I found a 1.6 N/A Diesel sitting outside in some lady's backyard. I bought it quickly and AAA towed it to my house. I dismantled the engine and found that the solid lifters were welded into their bores in the cylinder head! I also found the plastic thermostat housing was cracked open. This led me to believe that the engine lost all of its coolant and overheated. I bought a new cylinder head and thought I could get the thing running within a week or two. I started looking at VW GTD and VW vortex and found I was over my head in the work to come:
Here is the car soon after I bought it becoming a storage shed:
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff271/xedice/VW%2001%20-%20Cylinder%20Head%20Rebuild/01-CIMG0007.jpg)
Out with the old cylinder head:
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff271/xedice/VW%2001%20-%20Cylinder%20Head%20Rebuild/02-CIMG0087.jpg)
No valve-piston contact, good!
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff271/xedice/VW%2001%20-%20Cylinder%20Head%20Rebuild/03-CIMG0090.jpg)
The new (used) cylinder head I bought. I didn't know it was 11mm and mine was 12mm until I started searching through VW GTD! So I had a machine shop enlarge the holes and washer recesses:
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff271/xedice/VW%2001%20-%20Cylinder%20Head%20Rebuild/04-CIMG0014.jpg)
Went to home depot and bought some metal to make my own valve spring compressor:
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff271/xedice/VW%2001%20-%20Cylinder%20Head%20Rebuild/05-CIMG0027.jpg)
Cylinder head is dissassembled:
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff271/xedice/VW%2001%20-%20Cylinder%20Head%20Rebuild/06-CIMG0032.jpg)
All cleaned thanks to simple green, paper towels, and an ebay ultrasonic machine:
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff271/xedice/VW%2001%20-%20Cylinder%20Head%20Rebuild/07-CIMG0093.jpg)
Using a gasket, a needle, and a marker to start porting the cylinder head:
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff271/xedice/VW%2001%20-%20Cylinder%20Head%20Rebuild/08-CIMG0054.jpg)
Using a die grinder to port the cylinder head:
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff271/xedice/VW%2001%20-%20Cylinder%20Head%20Rebuild/09-CIMG0051.jpg)
Took the cylinder head to a machine shop for new valve guides and a valve seat job:
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff271/xedice/VW%2001%20-%20Cylinder%20Head%20Rebuild/10-CIMG0126.jpg)
Reassembled and used a dremel, scouring pad, and simple green to clean it up:
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff271/xedice/VW%2001%20-%20Cylinder%20Head%20Rebuild/11-CIMG0251.jpg)
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Now it is time to install the new cylinder head:
But first, ARP head studs for a ford cosworth and a new headgasket (the headgasket is on upside down in this picture, I fixed this after taking the picture):
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff271/xedice/VW%2002%20-%20Cylinder%20Head%20Install/01-CIMG0253.jpg)
The rusty ip bracket just doesn't cut it:
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff271/xedice/VW%2002%20-%20Cylinder%20Head%20Install/02-CIMG0215.jpg)
Hex bolts instead of allen bolts and newly painted brackets:
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff271/xedice/VW%2002%20-%20Cylinder%20Head%20Install/03-TimingBeltSolution6.jpg)
After finding out my timing belt was not tracking correctly, I fixed it (you can see how in this thread: http://vwdiesel.net/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=13496)
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff271/xedice/VW%2002%20-%20Cylinder%20Head%20Install/04-TimingBeltSolution8.jpg)
Got some 1.6 turbo diesel injectors with mercedes nozzles:
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff271/xedice/VW%2002%20-%20Cylinder%20Head%20Install/05-CIMG0263.jpg)
Head installed and cam splash guard goes on:
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff271/xedice/VW%2002%20-%20Cylinder%20Head%20Install/06-CIMG0297.jpg)
At this point, I tried starting the engine and it would fire then die once I released the key. So I rebuilt the injector pump thinking that was the problem (pics in the next post). It turned out to be just the glowplugs. The previous owner completely screwed up the glowplug wiring so I just tore it all out and redid the entire thing the right way. I used a push button switch because my relay had a mind of its own.
Vince Waldon's site helped me pimp my glowplugs with separate fuses, a ford starter relay, individual wiring, and a push button switch:
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff271/xedice/VW%2002%20-%20Cylinder%20Head%20Install/07-CIMG0623.jpg)
Done with wiring up the glowplugs and installing IP. Put on an unpainted G60 valve cover (haven't painted it yet):
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff271/xedice/VW%2002%20-%20Cylinder%20Head%20Install/09-CIMG0621.jpg)
Windage tray goes in, cleaned out all the hair :shock: from the screen of the oil pump:
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff271/xedice/VW%2002%20-%20Cylinder%20Head%20Install/10-CIMG0658.jpg)
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So I thought my car wouldn't start because of the injector pump being rusted inside or something. So I rebuilt it using biodiesel seals just in case I want to run biodiesel in the future. I had no idea what an injection pump was or how it worked until I found a post here in french showing how to reassemble it. So I followed the pictures and took some of my own.
Before the rebuild:
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff271/xedice/VW%2003%20-%20IP%20Rebuild/01-CIMG0311.jpg)
This is part of the cold start/dynamic advance assembly. I took out the bottom left shim in this pic thinking it would increase my dynamic advance. Now my cold start doesn't really work. Is this mod worthwhile or should I put the shim back in?
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff271/xedice/VW%2003%20-%20IP%20Rebuild/02-CIMG0384.jpg)
Feed pump looks good:
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff271/xedice/VW%2003%20-%20IP%20Rebuild/03-CIMG0370.jpg)
I wet-sanded every flat surface I could find in the IP:
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff271/xedice/VW%2003%20-%20IP%20Rebuild/04-CIMG0376.jpg)
Re-assembling:
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff271/xedice/VW%2003%20-%20IP%20Rebuild/05-CIMG0388.jpg)
Pump goes in:
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff271/xedice/VW%2003%20-%20IP%20Rebuild/06-CIMG0389.jpg)
Getting ready to put the delivery valves on:
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff271/xedice/VW%2003%20-%20IP%20Rebuild/07-CIMG0391.jpg)
Almost done rebuilding:
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff271/xedice/VW%2003%20-%20IP%20Rebuild/08-CIMG0394.jpg)
I put the IP back in the car, timed it to about 1.05mm and started it up. No oil pressure. Turns out I didn't tighten the bolts on the oil pump and they vibrated loose. :oops: Fixed that and took it for a drive. The brakes were NON EXISTANT! Did I take it back home and check to see if there was brake fluid in the master cylinder? No! I rebuilt all the brakes including the drums. And then when I went to bleed the brakes, I found that there wasn't a single drop of brake fluid in the system... :oops: I have never done drum brakes before. It took me a long time and you can see in the next post...
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Nice post. I like. I wish i had the money to treat my car better to rebuild a bunch of stuff. :lol:
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I like the glow plug wiring. :wink:
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(http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa85/vwaldon/right_way-1.jpg)
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Nice looking work. I like the gasket matching.
Your headgasket is upside down in the picture. If it's run that way, it will starve the head of oil.
Andrew
Haha yeah. I just threw it on there for the purposes of picture taking. I fixed it later :wink:
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So I took the wheels off and I saw the axles were wound up and tangled with weeds and grass:
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff271/xedice/VW%2004%20-%20Brake%20Overhaul/01-CIMG0661.jpg)
All fixed up (the rattle clips are installed wrong in this pic, I fixed them later):
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff271/xedice/VW%2004%20-%20Brake%20Overhaul/02-CIMG0734.jpg)
After taking a sledgehammer to the rear tires to get the rusted drums unstuck, here is how it looked:
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff271/xedice/VW%2004%20-%20Brake%20Overhaul/03-CIMG0666.jpg)
New drum hardware, took me a while to figure out how drum brakes worked. I've never worked on them until now. My emergency brakes were stuck so I put new ebrake cables in. (I ended up replacing the wheel cylinders after I took this pic because the bleeders had broken off):
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff271/xedice/VW%2004%20-%20Brake%20Overhaul/04-CIMG0727.jpg)
Packing the bearings with bearing grease:
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff271/xedice/VW%2004%20-%20Brake%20Overhaul/05-CIMG0729.jpg)
Using a big hammer and an impact socket to install the new bearings in the new drums because I don't have a press:
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff271/xedice/VW%2004%20-%20Brake%20Overhaul/06-CIMG0726.jpg)
Rear drums all done:
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff271/xedice/VW%2004%20-%20Brake%20Overhaul/07-CIMG0735.jpg)
Time to put the wheels back on:
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff271/xedice/VW%2004%20-%20Brake%20Overhaul/08-CIMG0736.jpg)
That is pretty much where I'm at now. Cleaning the inside (it is full of grass and pine needles) and installing new gauges in a homemade gauge mount is next.
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My hats off to ya! Great job, doing it right! 8)
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Thanks for the comments!
So today I got a lot done. I finished my homemade gauge cluster and did some wiring and cleaning. The car had been sitting in the previous owner's backyard that hadn't been mowed in a long time:
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff271/xedice/VW%2005%20-%20Cleaning%20and%20Gauges/01-CIMG0617.jpg)
After some vacuuming:
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff271/xedice/VW%2005%20-%20Cleaning%20and%20Gauges/02-CIMG0618.jpg)
Got some presents in the mail!:
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff271/xedice/VW%2005%20-%20Cleaning%20and%20Gauges/03-CIMG0634.jpg)
Now it is time to start work on a template for the gauge cluster. I didn't want to shell out big bucks for one from 42draftdesigns, so I thought I would make my own.
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff271/xedice/VW%2005%20-%20Cleaning%20and%20Gauges/04-CIMG0677.jpg)
Transferring the template to some plexi-glass. I hate working with plexi-glass. If I were to do this again, I would use some other type of plastic sheet that isn't so brittle.
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff271/xedice/VW%2005%20-%20Cleaning%20and%20Gauges/05-CIMG0680.jpg)
Being very careful not to crack the plexi-glass while drilling holes:
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff271/xedice/VW%2005%20-%20Cleaning%20and%20Gauges/06-CIMG0685.jpg)
Spraying the first coat:
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff271/xedice/VW%2005%20-%20Cleaning%20and%20Gauges/07-CIMG0689.jpg)
I used a dremel to cut out the plastic where the stock tape player was. Then I test fit the plexi-glass:
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff271/xedice/VW%2005%20-%20Cleaning%20and%20Gauges/08-CIMG0698.jpg)
The previous owner had a rat's nest of wiring that I had to fix:
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff271/xedice/VW%2005%20-%20Cleaning%20and%20Gauges/09-CIMG0647.jpg)
After a lot of test fitting, cutting, and finished painting, it is finally complete:
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff271/xedice/VW%2005%20-%20Cleaning%20and%20Gauges/10-CIMG0744.jpg)
Here is the last moment of my clock cluster:
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff271/xedice/VW%2005%20-%20Cleaning%20and%20Gauges/11-CIMG0741.jpg)
Tach cluster in (Somehow my car instantly racked up 99,000 miles!):
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff271/xedice/VW%2005%20-%20Cleaning%20and%20Gauges/12-CIMG0742.jpg)
All done:
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff271/xedice/VW%2005%20-%20Cleaning%20and%20Gauges/13-CIMG0745.jpg)
I started up my car and the TACH DOESN'T WORK!!! :evil: :x :evil: I tested continuity from the W plug to the tach pinout and there is indeed continuity in the wire. So I gave up for the night. I think it is either the guy from vortex sold me a broken cluster or my alternator's W output is broken or something. Anybody have ideas why my tach doesn't work? It should be plug and play right?
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Very impressive!
I wish I had all that time to work on my projects!
Where did you get that tach cluster in mpg?
Thanks. I saw it on ebay and turned out to be a guy from vw vortex so I bought it: http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3846258
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Good job man!!
Keep it up, we need more old school vw diesels on the road..
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Good job. Very impressive amounts of work you are doing
Check the wires for the W terminal. They like to corrode.
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I don't really know where beavercreek is but ohio isn't that big...when your dun with your project how much do you charge for other :lol:
where did you get the guages? I like them. I was going to go cheap for some of mine, but those might have me turned around. Great work...I'm serious on the hiring deal :twisted:
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I'd second the suggestion to check the W terminal for corrosion. I think I've still got a QTD alternator around here somewhere if you end up needing a new one. Sell it to you on the cheap.
You make me jealous with the speed of your build. My poor Fox has languished in the garage for six months, dash apart and engine-less. :cry:
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First off Fantastic Job!!!!!!!
Truly enjoying the tutorial, since I have the same car (86 1.6 N/A) that was in similar shape. Mine was in a backyard for 6 years!! I didn't go to as great of lengths as you did, so I'm jealous of your craftsmanship 8) Mine is a daily driver now, and I'm still fixing things as they come up.
FYI
1) You can switch out the speedo cluster into your tach unit fairly easily, if you want to keep the correct mileage.
2) I know you have done a bunch of work on your IP, but if it still isn't great, or if you want some more get up and go, bite the bullet and send it to Giles. It is night and day compared to the stock IP. Mileage is still great, but it is now drivable, even up hills and loaded down.
Please let me know what you end up on doing for shocks and struts. I'm guessing yours are similar to mine, and mine are shot. I have looked into stiffer springs, but haven't made any decisions yet.
I'm nowhere near the mechanic you are, seeing what you have attempted so far, but if there is anything that I might be able to help you with, IM me sometime.
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I got the tach to work! 8) I replaced the spade connector at the W terminal and started it up. It took about 2 minutes for the alternator to finally wake up and send a signal, but it did and I found that I am idling at 1300 rpm. I'm going to mess with the injector pump later and to make the car faster and bring the idle down.
The car is making a high pitched whining/grinding sound when it warms up. I think it is the timing belt. I see a lot of black powder in the timing cover and the side of the timing belt is worn down. I think it is wearing on the intermediate pulley's ridge. You can see the metal cord in the top of this pic and it slowly fades away:
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff271/xedice/CIMG0753.jpg)
Hopefully it will just wear itself into place because I have already tried fixing the timing belt tracking once and I think I have done all that I can do.
I don't really know where beavercreek is but ohio isn't that big...when your dun with your project how much do you charge for other :lol:
where did you get the guages? I like them. I was going to go cheap for some of mine, but those might have me turned around. Great work...I'm serious on the hiring deal :twisted:
I got the gauges from http://www.42draftdesigns.com/
They are VDO gauges and I think it fits really well with the car. Nothing too fancy. Maybe someday I could work on someone else's car, but I have a lot of work to do before I'm done with this thing! :P
First off Fantastic Job!!!!!!!
Truly enjoying the tutorial, since I have the same car (86 1.6 N/A) that was in similar shape. Mine was in a backyard for 6 years!! I didn't go to as great of lengths as you did, so I'm jealous of your craftsmanship Cool Mine is a daily driver now, and I'm still fixing things as they come up.
Thanks for the kind words! I am fixing mine to be a daily driver as well but I really want to add a turbocharger soon. But first I want to get everything in working order before I start adding power! Giles does a great job on injection pumps, but they cost a lot! I think I will see how fast I can get with a turbo and tinkering with the IP myself. It is cheaper and I can learn a lot more.
I might try switching my speedo. But this one goes up to 120! I wonder if I can open this speedo up and manually rotate the numbers back to the original mileage?
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When it comes down to it, who cares about the mileage anyway on an 86 or 85 vehicle :shock: It will prob get you lower taxes anyway! Keep the threads coming!! I'd be curious to see what you do with the turbo if you ever go that route.
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I might try switching my speedo. But this one goes up to 120! I wonder if I can open this speedo up and manually rotate the numbers back to the original mileage?
Mine goes to 220. :D
And congrats on getting the tach to work! Might want to check it against a strobe light or similar to make sure it's reading properly, before you mess with the idle too much. W terminal tachometers can introduce some error, and a not-perfect connection might introduce some more.
How does the T-belt track on the sprockets? About the middle of the sprocket, or is it close to the front of each? If it rides toward the front, you might be able to loosen it and slide it back just a touch to get it off the IM shaft pulley ridge.
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Wow, that's looking really good! If you're ever around central Ohio, look me up! :D
Brendan
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looks great! I just started working on my golf this week, so this thread gives me motivation.
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How does the T-belt track on the sprockets? About the middle of the sprocket, or is it close to the front of each? If it rides toward the front, you might be able to loosen it and slide it back just a touch to get it off the IM shaft pulley ridge.
It is riding good now, I adjusted it toward the center.
Wow, that's looking really good! If you're ever around central Ohio, look me up!
Brendan
Thanks. For sure.
I'm rebuilding my alternator now, big post coming up.
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So my tach stopped working... I was driving the car around the neighborhood trying to find the source of the grinding noise. I was driving the car like I stole it and all the sudden my tach goes all the way up to 5000 and then starts wigging out on me jumping all over the place. Then it just died.
I think my alternator is going out on me, so I am going to rebuild it. I looked up some articles on how alternators work and then proceeded to take mine apart:
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff271/xedice/VW%2006%20-%20Alternator/01-CIMG0768.jpg)
Separated the stator and the rotor:
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff271/xedice/VW%2006%20-%20Alternator/02-CIMG0769.jpg)
Using my harbor freight gear puller to pull off the bearings:
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff271/xedice/VW%2006%20-%20Alternator/03-CIMG0772.jpg)
Using an impact wrench to zing off the pulley:
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff271/xedice/VW%2006%20-%20Alternator/04-CIMG0773.jpg)
Taking note of the fan, woodruff key, and spacer order:
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff271/xedice/VW%2006%20-%20Alternator/05-CIMG0775.jpg)
Using the gear puller to separate the front casing from the rotor:
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff271/xedice/VW%2006%20-%20Alternator/06-CIMG0777.jpg)
Taking off the bearing cover:
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff271/xedice/VW%2006%20-%20Alternator/07-CIMG0780.jpg)
TADA :twisted:! This bearing is DESTROYED. There were pieces of metal falling out, no grease, and the ball bearings don't even resemble spheres anymore. I think this is the source of that grinding/whining noise:
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff271/xedice/VW%2006%20-%20Alternator/08-CIMG0782.jpg)
Using a socket to smack the bearing out because once again I don't own a press:
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff271/xedice/VW%2006%20-%20Alternator/09-CIMG0783.jpg)
Here are both bearings in the alternator. Quite nasty:
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff271/xedice/VW%2006%20-%20Alternator/10-CIMG0784.jpg)
Separating the back casing from the stator:
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff271/xedice/VW%2006%20-%20Alternator/11-CIMG0786.jpg)
My current progress. The parts I ordered to rebuild the alternator have not come in yet, so I'm waiting:
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff271/xedice/VW%2006%20-%20Alternator/12-CIMG0787.jpg)
Here is the car so far (front end make-over is on order):
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff271/xedice/VW%2006%20-%20Alternator/13-CIMG0760.jpg)
So a cleaned up, painted, rebuilt alternator is in the works as well as a new front end... coming soon...
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Sweetness. Where'd you order the parts?
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Sweetness. Where'd you order the parts?
I ordered the alternator parts from ebay and:
www.rockauto.com
Rockauto ships pretty fast and they have a big selection for just about any car you can think of. Here is a 5% discount code they gave me:
1067387558106
It is valid until August 5th. Anybody can use it; just enter it in when you order in the "how did you hear about us". I ordered my grill and lights from ebay.
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Awesome. I've got a buzzing alternator myself.
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First off Fantastic Job!!!!!!!
Please let me know what you end up on doing for shocks and struts. I'm guessing yours are similar to mine, and mine are shot. I have looked into stiffer springs, but haven't made any decisions yet.
I'm nowhere near the mechanic you are, seeing what you have attempted so far, but if there is anything that I might be able to help you with, IM me sometime.
Hey thanks for the offer. I have no idea what I should do with my shocks and struts. Like yours, mine are shot. After the brake job, I lowered the car down from the jackstands and the struts popped on the way down. I looked at them and saw the shafts are kind of rusty and they probably are sticking.
I was thinking about going to coil overs because eventually I want to lower the car a bit. But they are pricey. Once I get all the mechanical and electrical problems sorted out, I will start thinking about upgrades.
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awesome job on this car riddleyo
G60 rocker cover looks nice
individual glow plug fuses sure looked pimped.
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Once again I must say I like. It is really cool having it broken up in stages of how your going about things. Also your attention to detail is nice specially in the pictures. Helps a lot of people out.
Also love the gloves to protect the hands but the sandals to protect the feet. :wink:
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Thats it! Im going to rebuild my Jetta TD! Thank you for the inspiration!
Here is my 1st thread to introduce myself!
I will do a build thread as well.
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awesome job on this car riddleyo
G60 rocker cover looks nice
individual glow plug fuses sure looked pimped.
Thanks! I just finished painting the G60 cover. Pics are coming once it dries and is installed.
Once again I must say I like. It is really cool having it broken up in stages of how your going about things. Also your attention to detail is nice specially in the pictures. Helps a lot of people out.
Also love the gloves to protect the hands but the sandals to protect the feet.
Haha. I work with my hands not my feet! I've had a few things drop on my toes while working but no biggie.
Thats it! Im going to rebuild my Jetta TD! Thank you for the inspiration!
Here is my 1st thread to introduce myself!
I will do a build thread as well.
Nice. Looking forward to seeing it. I want a turbo on my engine someday.
:)
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I finished rebuilding my alternator, and my tach works perfectly now! My battery light has also gone away. I ordered 2 new bearings, and a new adjustable voltage regulator.
Here are the new parts compared to the old ones:
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff271/xedice/VW%2006%20-%20Alternator/14-CIMG0789.jpg)
I wetsanded the slip bearing surface to get rid of all the oxidation:
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff271/xedice/VW%2006%20-%20Alternator/15-CIMG0790.jpg)
Then I used a dremel with a wire wheel to clean every metal contact I could find:
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff271/xedice/VW%2006%20-%20Alternator/16-CIMG0793.jpg)
I used a wire brush attachment on a drill to clean the casings. Then I wiped them down with denatured alcohol. I sprayed some self etching primer, then some high temp silver:
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff271/xedice/VW%2006%20-%20Alternator/17-CIMG0844.jpg)
Packing the alternator bearings with some wheel bearing grease:
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff271/xedice/VW%2006%20-%20Alternator/18-CIMG0846.jpg)
Installing the bridge rectifier into the case:
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff271/xedice/VW%2006%20-%20Alternator/19-CIMG0851.jpg)
Installing the bearing and the cover into the case:
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff271/xedice/VW%2006%20-%20Alternator/20-CIMG0853.jpg)
Putting it all back together. The four screws that hold the 2 case halves together have to be tightened a tiny bit at a time, and you have to keep jumping to a different screw. If you tighten one side too much, the bearings get cock-eyed and the whole assembly locks up. This part took a while:
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff271/xedice/VW%2006%20-%20Alternator/21-CIMG0859.jpg)
I put di-electric grease on every single metal contact I could find in the alternator to prevent corrosion and make a good electrical contact:
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff271/xedice/VW%2006%20-%20Alternator/22-CIMG0862.jpg)
Alternator installed:
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff271/xedice/VW%2006%20-%20Alternator/23-CIMG0868.jpg)
If your tachometer is bouncing around or just dies, rebuilding the alternator solves this problem. I think a combination of a bad voltage regulator, and poor electrical contacts due to corrosion killed my tach. But after the rebuild, it works great. Next up is painting the valve cover and installing new locks and headlights...
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Now to painting the valve cover. I used a wire brush attachment on a drill to clean the valve cover then I used denatured alcohol to clean it. First I sprayed some self etching primer so the paint would stick to the aluminum, and then finished with high temp silver:
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff271/xedice/VW%2007%20-%20Cosmetics%201/01-CIMG0788a.jpg)
Done painting:
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff271/xedice/VW%2007%20-%20Cosmetics%201/03-CIMG0869.jpg)
Injector lines painted as well:
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff271/xedice/VW%2007%20-%20Cosmetics%201/04-CIMG0871.jpg)
At this point, my car has no door locks and no headlights so I had to fix these. I bought a lock set from prothe. The door locks are very poor quality but the ignition lock and hatch lock are ok. I can't really complain because it was only $27 shipped:
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff271/xedice/VW%2007%20-%20Cosmetics%201/05-CIMG0797.jpg)
Drilling a hole in the ignition to get the lock cylinder out:
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff271/xedice/VW%2007%20-%20Cosmetics%201/06-CIMG0812.jpg)
New lock in:
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff271/xedice/VW%2007%20-%20Cosmetics%201/07-CIMG0815.jpg)
Prothe's door handles/locks were poor quality. I was pretty disappointed but they were pretty inexpensive and you get what you pay for. The rubber seals were too small and low grade so they didn't seal very well. I had to use super glue for the seal to stick to the door handle, and globs of RTV to seal them to the door so water wouldn't get in the lock area. The lock mechanism isn't the same dimension as the OEM ones so it sometimes is very hard to open the door. Also, I had to enlarge the screw opening with a dremel in the handle so the screw would fit.
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff271/xedice/VW%2007%20-%20Cosmetics%201/08-CIMG0827.jpg)
I used lots of RTV to seal the door handle (I need to wash the car). The plastic insert also doesn't fit too well.
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff271/xedice/VW%2007%20-%20Cosmetics%201/09-CIMG0836-1.jpg)
Now I can at least lock the doors and start the car with the same key. But I have no headlights. So I bought a badgeless dual round grill and some lights. I have a westy radiator support though. I don't want to spend $100 for a new radiator support, so I made my support work. First I took out the square headlight buckets to make room for the round headlights.
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff271/xedice/VW%2007%20-%20Cosmetics%201/10-CIMG0872.jpg)
Drilling holes:
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff271/xedice/VW%2007%20-%20Cosmetics%201/12-CIMG0878.jpg)
Used some long nuts and bolts to mount the lights (didn't get a picture of the mounted lights, but they just fit on the studs and I used more nuts to attach them)
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff271/xedice/VW%2007%20-%20Cosmetics%201/13-CIMG0879.jpg)
All finished (the tub under the car is to catch all the oil that leaks):
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff271/xedice/VW%2007%20-%20Cosmetics%201/14-CIMG0882.jpg)
Dual rounds:
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff271/xedice/VW%2007%20-%20Cosmetics%201/15-CIMG0885.jpg)
At this point, I found that only the left headlight works. I tested the wiring and the right side doesn't get 12 volts like it should. So more wiring work is needed under the hood before I can drive the car at night.
I drove the car around, and there is still a very loud metallic whine (sounds like a super charger). It sounds like something in the engine because it increases with RPM. The sound only comes when the car is warmed up. Does anybody know what it could be? I will try uploading a video later...
So many problems... :evil:
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Drilling a hole in the ignition to get the lock cylinder out:
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff271/xedice/VW%2007%20-%20Cosmetics%201/06-CIMG0812.jpg)
How did you locate the hole? How about a measurement from the seam up to the hole and from the end back to the hole. (X & Z coordinates)
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I don't have a scanner so I used his picture and put what the Bentley says. Theres a flat where the part number is and you measure down 10mm from that. Measure 12mm in from the edge of the housing. Hope that helps.
(http://home.comcast.net/~righthandaction/06CIMG0812.jpg)
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Great pic Possum
How did you locate the hole? How about a measurement from the seam up to the hole and from the end back to the hole. (X & Z coordinates)
I didn't measure at all. I put the new lock cylinder next to the old one and used a sharpie to draw approximately where the hole is. I could see where the spring is on the new lock cylinder and just eye-balled it.
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Fixed the headlights, they work now. But my car still has a high pitched whine so I started to inspect my intermediate pulley because it looked like the belt was rubbing on the ridges. I put the car on jack stands, removed the front motor mount, and used a jack and a board to lower the engine so I could get to the intermediate pulley:
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff271/xedice/VW%2008%20-%20Intermediate%20Shaft/01-CIMG0903.jpg)
I made this tool with some pipe, nuts, and bolts so I could hold the pulley in place while I loosened the bolt. It makes a good weapon to swing around when people walk up to the house and try to sell me magazines when I'm working:
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff271/xedice/VW%2008%20-%20Intermediate%20Shaft/02-CIMG0905.jpg)
The pulley had seized itself onto the intermediate shaft, so I had to get medieval on it with a big crowbar after my gear puller failed:
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff271/xedice/VW%2008%20-%20Intermediate%20Shaft/03-CIMG0900.jpg)
To make it even better, when I pulled my intermediate shaft out, there were a bunch of cracks and a chunk fell off as I set it down:
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff271/xedice/VW%2008%20-%20Intermediate%20Shaft/04-CIMG0901.jpg)
Another pic:
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff271/xedice/VW%2008%20-%20Intermediate%20Shaft/05-CIMG0902.jpg)
And it looks like I need to replace the intermediate shaft bearings:
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff271/xedice/VW%2008%20-%20Intermediate%20Shaft/06-CIMG0897.jpg)
So I'm in a bind :evil:. If anyone has an intermediate pulley, intermediate shaft, or intermediate bearings for sale, let me know. I really need to buy them so I can get this car on the road...
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Myke_W is the man for new stuff on here such as your bearings...he might have or know someone or somewhere to get the intermediate shaft as well.
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That bearing doesn't look too terrible. You might just leave it alone. That split you see, is a factory 'latch' in the manufacture process, not a defect. So, if the surface looks good (smooth, no missing chunks), then I'd say leave it alone.
I just did this job on a Rabbit Truck (see my post on vwdieselparts.net: "a call for help from Andrew"). I'm working on a post about how to install just the outside intermediate shaft bearing without having to remove the block, separate it from the trans, OR drop the oil pan. It's pretty slick, and the tools can be made pretty cheaply.
So, if you feel you still need to replace the bearing, PM me and I'll give you the details, and some pics of the procedure.
Jeremy
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Also, a little trick to getting the pulley off the intermediate shaft when it's stuck (for future reference: too late for you now).
If you have an IP sprocket puller (like the REALLY nice one that Jack at VWDieselParts sells: $75 and worth every penny), then you can maneuver it onto the intermediate shaft and slowly work off the pulley. I've had to do it a couple of times, and his tool works great. The upside is that you don't damage the outer lips of the pulley.
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Since my diesel intermediate shaft is cracked, I bought a gasser intermediate shaft and pulled off the gear. I intended to use the gear from my diesel intermediate shaft on the gasser shaft.
Yesterday, while pulling the gears off, I found out the gear ends of the gasser and diesel shafts are different! The gasser gear is smaller that the diesel gear.
I took the shaft to a machine shop today and they are going to fit a sleeve to make my diesel gear fit. They are also going to lighten and balance the shaft for me on a lathe. I can't wait :P
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Beautiful engine. Did you check bottom end wear before putting the cylinder head back on?
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Beautiful engine. Did you check bottom end wear before putting the cylinder head back on?
Thanks! I did a compression test after the cylinder head was put on and that is about it (I have the numbers written down somewhere, I'll post them as soon as I find them). I wish I did more though.
What are some good bottom end wear checks that you guys know of?
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Since my intermediate shaft is broken, I had to buy a new intermediate shaft. I found one on ebay, but it is from a gasser. I took off the gasser gear and tried to put on my diesel gear. The diesel gear is BIGGER than the gasser gear. So you can't just swap them out. I had to take the shaft to a machine shop and he installed a sleeve on the gasser shaft so the diesel gear can slip on. It also has been lightened and balanced. Here I am taking the gear off with my cheapo gear puller from harbor freight:
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff271/xedice/VW%2008%20-%20Intermediate%20Shaft/07-CIMG0907.jpg)
Here is the diesel gear pulled off from the diesel shaft:
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff271/xedice/VW%2008%20-%20Intermediate%20Shaft/08-CIMG0910.jpg)
Here is the diesel gear pressed onto the gasser shaft:
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff271/xedice/VW%2008%20-%20Intermediate%20Shaft/13-CIMG0963.jpg)
I had the machine shop guy lighten and balance the shaft on a lathe. It turned out to be $45 for the gear sleeve, pressing the gear on, and turning down the shaft:
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff271/xedice/VW%2008%20-%20Intermediate%20Shaft/14-CIMG0962.jpg)
Now to install the new intermediate shaft. I started by replacing the seals on the intermediate flange:
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff271/xedice/VW%2008%20-%20Intermediate%20Shaft/09-CIMG0956.jpg)
Then, burn_your_money sent me an intermediate pulley without ridges. It is quiet dirty though!
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff271/xedice/VW%2008%20-%20Intermediate%20Shaft/10-CIMG0952.jpg)
I cleaned up the pulley with a wire brush and some denatured alcohol. Here it is all cleaned up compared to my old pulley:
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff271/xedice/VW%2008%20-%20Intermediate%20Shaft/12-CIMG0964.jpg)
Intermediate shaft installed, intermediate flanged tightened down, and the intermediate pulley torqued on:
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff271/xedice/VW%2008%20-%20Intermediate%20Shaft/15-CIMG0965.jpg)
I am FINALLY done with my timing belt issues! The car ran great. I don't notice a difference in power. So I wouldn't recommend everybody rushing to lighten their intermediate shaft. It spins at half the speed of your engine. But I did it because I had to take my intermediate shaft to the machine shop anyway. It looks good and there will be less vibrations / tiny amount of reciprocating weight freed up.
All is good until I went to step on the brakes the other day and the pedal HIT THE FLOOR :evil:. So now I am in the process of replacing the master cylinder and cleaning up the engine bay. I'm also dyeing my carpet and my interior panels a new color. I am pretty much making the interior brand new :D :D :D . Pics to come soon...
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Very happy to see that the piece is working for you :D
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This is the best thread ever!
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Man, one thing after another. Good thing you're pretty much a genius and have been able to do all the repairs yourself. Nice work, love the write-ups with pix. Very helpful!!!
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This is the best thread ever!
Thanks!
Man, one thing after another. Good thing you're pretty much a genius and have been able to do all the repairs yourself. Nice work, love the write-ups with pix. Very helpful!!!
You're telling me! I just found two huge holes in the floorboards due to rust when I pulled the carpet up. It is one thing after another! I'm currently writing it up as I repair it, so pictures will be up in the next day or so.
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I'll be using this post as a reference guide, as we just picked up an 86 Golf N/A for the Wife. :) It's almost exactly the same as yours, even white, though it's a 4-door. This one supposedly has a rebuilt injection pump and new aftermarket head, but needs rings. So between your top-end rebuild and my soon-coming bottom-end refresh, people will have everything they need right here. :)
Brendan
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I had Smokey Eddy ask me a question on how to construct/use a valve spring compressor. Instead of just pm'ing him, I figured I would post here so everybody can benefit:
Hi there Smokey Eddy,
Looks like you have an interesting build going on yourself. Concerning the valve spring compressor, it is very simple in theory. The yellow things are clamps to hold the cylinder head down on the bench while I worked.
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff271/xedice/VW%2001%20-%20Cylinder%20Head%20Rebuild/05-CIMG0027.jpg)
All I did was cut some rectangular steel and assembled it as I went. You don't need very precise dimensions, as long as it fits on the head. I used bolts and nuts to secure it to the head. I used a steel tube and a rectangular piece with a hole drilled out of the same radius of the tube. This allows the rectangular piece to rotate and push down the valve springs.
Basically, I push down on the top of the valves and use a magnet or needle nose pliers to take out the two valve keepers that hold the valve in place.
I am going to include some pictures that will explain it better than I can.
Here is a valve. It has three grooves at the top that 'valve keepers' fit into like a piece of a puzzle:
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff271/xedice/VW%2001%20-%20Cylinder%20Head%20Rebuild/CIMG0111.jpg)
Here are the 'valve keepers'. They have 3 ridges that fit into the valve. The purpose of these valve keepers is to attach the valve to the valve retainer. The valve retainer attaches to the valve springs. Otherwise, the valves would just drop out of the head and the springs would be pressing against nothing:
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff271/xedice/VW%2001%20-%20Cylinder%20Head%20Rebuild/CIMG0147.jpg)
Here is the cylinder head with the valve retainers on top of the valve springs, but I have no valve keepers in yet:
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff271/xedice/VW%2001%20-%20Cylinder%20Head%20Rebuild/CIMG0142.jpg)
In order to put the valve keepers in, we have to use a valve spring compressor and drop the keepers in. This is also how you disassemble the head. Here I am pressing on the valve compressor and using my needle nose pliers to drop the valve keepers in. They will latch onto the ridges of the valve itself and keep the spring compressed. To remove them, simply use a magnet and they will be sucked right out
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff271/xedice/VW%2001%20-%20Cylinder%20Head%20Rebuild/CIMG0149.jpg)
That is about it. It will be kind of hard to understand if you have never had a cylinder head in front of you and just examined it closely. So the best way is to take a good look at the cylinder head and just figure out how it works. Let me know if you need anything clarified.
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That is an awesome looking valve spring compressor riddle! I built one just like in this link. http://www.pureluckdesign.com/vw/vsc/ Yours definitely looks more user friendly though. :D
I would only change one thing about it. I think it would be a good idea to use aluminium or brass for the parts that go inside the lifter bores. I used tool steel for that part on mine because it's all I had access to. The steel will mark the lifter bores if I'm not very careful when using it.
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x2
Im trying to re-use my lifters so i may cover my compressor with something forgiving even a piece of cloth
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That is an awesome looking valve spring compressor riddle! I built one just like in this link. http://www.pureluckdesign.com/vw/vsc/ Yours definitely looks more user friendly though. :D
I would only change one thing about it. I think it would be a good idea to use aluminium or brass for the parts that go inside the lifter bores. I used tool steel for that part on mine because it's all I had access to. The steel will mark the lifter bores if I'm not very careful when using it.
Thanks! Your valve spring compressor looks nice and it very professional looking.
I forgot that I found that out the hard way. The steel part for my compressor has already put a scratch in a few of my lifter bores. I had to wetsand them out with fine sand paper.
Good idea, you are right. Anybody building one of these should use a softer metal for the part that contacts the valve retainer because it is very easy to scratch the aluminum bores.
I'll be using this post as a reference guide, as we just picked up an 86 Golf N/A for the Wife. :) It's almost exactly the same as yours, even white, though it's a 4-door. This one supposedly has a rebuilt injection pump and new aftermarket head, but needs rings. So between your top-end rebuild and my soon-coming bottom-end refresh, people will have everything they need right here. :)
Brendan
Cool stuff, looking forward to seeing your build Brendan!
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I really like the simplicity of your valve spring compresser. It looks a lot easier to use then a press
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For the past month or two, I have been stripping out the golf's interior, painting/dyeing everything black, and cleaning / repairing rust. I have also been adding sound deadening because the diesel engine is pretty noisy. I plan to have a nice stereo system in eventually and I want to hear it instead of the engine. I also replaced my heater core and cleaned out all the ventilation ducts which were full of mold. The cold/hot flap in the heater core compartment had holes in the foam so no matter what temperature setting it was on, it always blew blazing hot (sucks in the summer). This all is a lot of work and I'll write up the rust repair first.
To start off, I removed the entire interior.
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff271/xedice/VW%2009%20-%20Interior%20-%20Rust%20Repair/01-CIMG1071.jpg)
Lots of rust:
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff271/xedice/VW%2009%20-%20Interior%20-%20Rust%20Repair/02-CIMG1072.jpg)
I found two huge holes due to rust in both corners of the car. They were located where the rear seat meets the floor boards. They were located in the corners, so I would have to get fancy with my metal work to replicate all of the angles.
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff271/xedice/VW%2009%20-%20Interior%20-%20Rust%20Repair/03-CIMG1131.jpg)
So I began with cardboard templates that I fit with trial and error. Then I transfered the cardboard template to some sheet metal:
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff271/xedice/VW%2009%20-%20Interior%20-%20Rust%20Repair/04-CIMG1135.jpg)
I bent the metal to the correct shape:
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff271/xedice/VW%2009%20-%20Interior%20-%20Rust%20Repair/05-CIMG1136.jpg)
Fitting the metal:
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff271/xedice/VW%2009%20-%20Interior%20-%20Rust%20Repair/06-CIMG1137.jpg)
More metal:
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff271/xedice/VW%2009%20-%20Interior%20-%20Rust%20Repair/07-CIMG1138.jpg)
More test fitting:
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff271/xedice/VW%2009%20-%20Interior%20-%20Rust%20Repair/08-CIMG1139.jpg)
I recently bought a flux core welder. But I quickly found out that flux core welding is very difficult for this thin metal work. So I went with panel adhesive. This is newer adhesive technology that some car makers are now using for non-structural metal bonding. It is supposed to be stronger than a weld when the metal is prepared correctly. I wire-brushed off all the paint and wiped both surfaces down with acetone. Then I mixed this epoxy type stuff and put it on the metal using screws to secure the sheet metal while the panel adhesive does its work.
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff271/xedice/VW%2009%20-%20Interior%20-%20Rust%20Repair/09-CIMG1142.jpg)
Here is the completed repair. This was taken after I spent a few days ripping up all the sticky tar sound deadening with a heat gun and a putty knife. There is also a dry-ice method but I didn't use that. After the putty knife, I wirebrushed all the metal and wiped it down with acetone. The repair is pretty messy and ugly looking but it should be pretty strong and protect any mice from crawling though the gaping hole that used to be there. Nobody will see it because it is going to be under new sound deadener and carpet. I will grind off the screws later.
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff271/xedice/VW%2009%20-%20Interior%20-%20Rust%20Repair/10-CIMG1144.jpg)
Here is the other side being prepped for repair:
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff271/xedice/VW%2009%20-%20Interior%20-%20Rust%20Repair/11-CIMG1130.jpg)
Repaired. Pretty yucky looking but it will do the job. I plan to use seam sealer to seal any tiny holes between the metal/glue.
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff271/xedice/VW%2009%20-%20Interior%20-%20Rust%20Repair/12-CIMG1147.jpg)
This is what it looks like from under the car. I will grind off all the crap protruding in a bit.
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff271/xedice/VW%2009%20-%20Interior%20-%20Rust%20Repair/13-CIMG1151.jpg)
After using a grinder, the repair looks pretty good!
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff271/xedice/VW%2009%20-%20Interior%20-%20Rust%20Repair/14-CIMG1160.jpg)
This is where I stopped today. Tomorrow I will grind some more and start prepping the area for some rust protection. I am going to use 'Rust Bullet' to prevent any future rust and then seal everything up with seam sealer. Then I will start sound deadening the car.
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Friendly tip: appliances such as washers, driers, ranges and refrigerators are a great FREE source for high quality decent gauge sheet metal. I especially keep my eyes open for stainless steel kitchen sinks.
Andrew
Good idea. I have thought about about driving around looking for junk appliances for scrap metal money, but I haven't thought about using it for thick sheet metal.
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I work for a company that sells 3m and fasteners... please tell me what the upc code is on that 3M adhesive as I need to figure out how to get the seats out and fix some holes as well. This is a great thread. I like the valve spring compressor:D
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3M Panel Adhesive (http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/3MAutomotive/Aftermarket/Products/Product-Catalog/?PC_7_RJH9U5230GE3E02LECFTDQCEK3_nid=5G2DT12RRHbeP14FZGJL4Zgl)
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Possum beat me to it. Anyway, from his link:
3M 8115 Panel Bonding Adhesive
3M Id : 60-9800-3093-0
UPC : 0 00 51135 08115 0
3M 8116 Panel Bonding Adhesive
3M Id : 60-9801-0901-5
UPC : 0 00 51135 08116 7
The only difference that I saw between the two is that the 8116 product is formulated to meet GM and Chevy specifications. I don't think that really makes much of a difference. I used the 8115 product and it is pretty strong.
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From what I saw on one of the Trucks! tv show they said the only difference is the set time. I thought they said there was three different set times. They used one that set in 5 minutes on a jeep grand cherokee. It looked like it worked out awesome.
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this is such a great thread - you're doing a marvallous job! hats off to you sir.
i too like your valve spring compressor. also, your work with the alternator is very helpful! great!
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Thanks for posting that part about the head. that was really insightful. Where do the valve stem seals come in? I don't know all the in's and outs of the head.
does yours have keepers because its a mechanical head? I have a hydro head so do valve stem seals replace the keepers in the mechanical system?
Is valve removal the same for a hydro head (for the most part?)
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All valves have keepers, the removal is about the same between hydro and solid lifter heads and the seals are under the lifters.
Remove lifter, remove keepers, remove spring and you can see the seal.
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Ahh Thanks Dan :D
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I haven't been working on the VW as fast as I would like lately. This has been distracting me:
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff271/xedice/VW%2009%20-%20Interior%20-%20Rust%20Repair/CIMG1191small.jpg)
I just bought this 1991 Toyota MR2. I had to fix it up a bit because it will be my daily driver while the volkswagen is in the garage.
It is up and running, so now I can get back to work on the vw.
I found some more rust on the driver's floorpan:
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff271/xedice/VW%2009%20-%20Interior%20-%20Rust%20Repair/15-CIMG1164.jpg)
Now I need to cut out the rust:
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff271/xedice/VW%2009%20-%20Interior%20-%20Rust%20Repair/16-CIMG1165.jpg)
I cut out metal plates and epoxied them in. I used more screws to hold them in place while the epoxy cures.
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff271/xedice/VW%2009%20-%20Interior%20-%20Rust%20Repair/17-CIMG1175.jpg)
Next, I used a product called "Rust Bullet" to coat the entire floor pan. It is a ultra tough coating that bonds to rust. Much like POR-15 except there is no need for extensive surface prep. After it dried, I couldn't damage the finish by stabbing it with a screw driver. This is tough stuff!
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff271/xedice/VW%2009%20-%20Interior%20-%20Rust%20Repair/18-CIMG1185.jpg)
Here are where the two gaping holes used to be. The repair is now finished:
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff271/xedice/VW%2009%20-%20Interior%20-%20Rust%20Repair/19-CIMG1186.jpg)
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff271/xedice/VW%2009%20-%20Interior%20-%20Rust%20Repair/20-CIMG1187.jpg)
With all the rust repaired, I am going to start putting layers of sound deadening and sound absorbing materials in the interior.
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The volkswagen diesel 1.6L is a very loud engine. I am going to try to quiet the interior of the car so I can listen to music without the diesel sound drowning the music out. To do this, I need to add sound deadening and sound absorbing materials. The deadening stuff reduces vibrations and the absorbing stuff quiets everything down.
First, I needed to remove all the existing sound deadening to make room for the new stuff. The OEM mat consists of a bunch of recycled fibers glued together. It is cheap to produce, but not very effective.
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff271/xedice/VW%2010%20-%20Interior%20-%20Sound%20and%20Interior/01-CIMG1098.jpg)
Here is some mass loaded vinyl left over from a home theater installation. It is a very heavy rubber sheeting. When this stuff is glued to the sheet metal, it adds mass which dampens any sounds or vibrations that try to pass through.
I could have used DynaMat or RAAMmat. But this was free.
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff271/xedice/VW%2010%20-%20Interior%20-%20Sound%20and%20Interior/02-CIMG1190.jpg)
I used contact adhesive to glue it to the floor pan of the car. Contact adhesive adheres just fine to the newly painted Rust Bullet surface.
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff271/xedice/VW%2010%20-%20Interior%20-%20Sound%20and%20Interior/03-CIMG1192.jpg)
Here is some sound absorbing foam that I bought. It is called Volara closed cell foam. It is similar to Ensolite that RAAM audio sells. All it is, is foam that absorbs sound.
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff271/xedice/VW%2010%20-%20Interior%20-%20Sound%20and%20Interior/04-CIMG1092.jpg)
To get more performance out of the foam, I glued aluminum foil on the sheet of foam. Then I glued another sheet of foam on top of the foil making a foam-foil sandwich. The theory is, that the aluminum foil will reflect sound back into the foam.
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff271/xedice/VW%2010%20-%20Interior%20-%20Sound%20and%20Interior/05-CIMG1101.jpg)
Here is the finished product. You can see the thin aluminum foil layer in between the two sheets of foam. (This picture was taken before I fixed the rust on the floor pan)
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff271/xedice/VW%2010%20-%20Interior%20-%20Sound%20and%20Interior/06-CIMG1122.jpg)
I used foil tape and contact adhesive to glue the foam sandwich to the interior of the car:
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff271/xedice/VW%2010%20-%20Interior%20-%20Sound%20and%20Interior/07-CIMG1102.jpg)
I did the whole dash like this:
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff271/xedice/VW%2010%20-%20Interior%20-%20Sound%20and%20Interior/08-CIMG1123.jpg)
As soon as I get more time, I will finish covering the interior with this foam. Then I will be able to run some speaker wire for the sound system...
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I must say the attention to detail is still astounding. Ive wanted to use dynamat or something like it but it is $$$. MY cheapy little car probably never will have it done. :cry:
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wow - you really have some great ideas.... well done!
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Mr. Deuce! I am a Toyota freak... Lol. Love those things... 5SFE or 3SGTE?
ANYWAY......
I'd recommend running overkill wiring to your speaker locations. Less voltage drop and crisper audio quality. If you really feel up to it, you could even set up a power distribution area in the back for future amplifiers for high end speakers and/or woofers... But you probably already knew that.
How challenging was that IP to do?
That front end looks SWEET! Got to love that dual-round. Looks much more exciting than the squares.
Got to love project cars... My first car was an 86 Toyota Tercel4wd that sat for 4 years. Fixed it up, drove it for a few months, then hit a mountain trying to do some fancy dirtroad driving. Ahh, 16.... Then about 2 months after that I fixed up the 84 Tercel4wd on the side of the house my sister had blown the engine on 6 years earlier, swapped engines, and drove it for almost 3 years. Fell asleep, went off the road, hit a mountain, then got a Camry. lol. Still driving that thing.. 95 5SFE project-car-unto-itself... I want my Terc back... Or a Rabbit. Or Golf. That'd be sweet.
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Mr. Deuce! I am a Toyota freak... Lol. Love those things... 5SFE or 3SGTE?
ANYWAY......
I'd recommend running overkill wiring to your speaker locations. Less voltage drop and crisper audio quality. If you really feel up to it, you could even set up a power distribution area in the back for future amplifiers for high end speakers and/or woofers... But you probably already knew that.
How challenging was that IP to do?
That front end looks SWEET! Got to love that dual-round. Looks much more exciting than the squares.
Got to love project cars... My first car was an 86 Toyota Tercel4wd that sat for 4 years. Fixed it up, drove it for a few months, then hit a mountain trying to do some fancy dirtroad driving. Ahh, 16.... Then about 2 months after that I fixed up the 84 Tercel4wd on the side of the house my sister had blown the engine on 6 years earlier, swapped engines, and drove it for almost 3 years. Fell asleep, went off the road, hit a mountain, then got a Camry. lol. Still driving that thing.. 95 5SFE project-car-unto-itself... I want my Terc back... Or a Rabbit. Or Golf. That'd be sweet.
Thanks for the comments.
The toyota is just a 5SFE. I wasn't lucky enough to score a turbo engine. But it is still pretty quick (especially compared to my vw diesel!)
The IP was fairly straight forward. I printed out a french forum topic that gave step by step instructions on how to assemble the IP. The hardest part was assembling the section that splits the fuel into the 4 nozzles. The springs are a pain in the butt to keep in place when assembling.
Project cars are always a lot of fun... as long as you have plenty of time and money!