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Engine Specific Info and Questions => TDI Engine -General Info => Topic started by: rodpaslow on May 06, 2014, 02:40:50 pm
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I have a MTDI pump that i ended up using a AAZ 1.9 housing as I didn't want to have to machine the 1Z mount or use the ALH pulley. However I think I'm regretting that now.
I'd prefer to set my pump at 1.40 to start as it shoulds like this is close to what I've read is about a good setting to start with.
Couple questions - are the AAZ and 1Z pump pulleys the same? I can't seem to set the pump with the bolt/lock in it anywhere near 1.40.
IF they are the same, would moving the pulley 1 cog forward be too far to adjust the pump back to 1.40? any other suggestions welcome!
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hates 130 vs 118... Hard to start, sounds like hammerin cummins at 130...
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If you've got an 'unknown' M-TDI pump then really there isn't a "set" number to use, you are going to have to mess around a bit to find the "best" setting for your pump/injector combo. My M-TDI sounds like a PowerStroke if I time it to 1.40, I've backed down to 1.30 myself.
I really wouldn't worry about the pump lock that much, just get the timing to where you want it. The pump lock is really only helpful for putting the belt on initially.
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Sound like that's what to do. I have an unknown timing belt - just don't know how much miles it has on it, I'm going to get a new one and see if that helps setting everything.
I tried skipping a cog and I had timiing about 1.55-1.6 at one end of the setting (retarted as much as possible) and about 1.2 or so without skipping. I may just have to elongate the holes in the pump housing just slightly to get it to say 1.30.
I'll see if a new belt helps first.
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Reasons why I have now fallen in love with the ALH 2-piece timing pulley...
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2 piece seems the way to go. I did a bit of grinding on the slots (maybe removed 1/32 or a bit more) and I have it set to 1.35. I'm going to see if I can get it going at that and adjust from there if needed.
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I changed the belt to a new one and the timing was bang on 1.40 - so likely the old belt was stretched .05mm. I tried starting it and it fired right away, ran for a few seconds and stopped. Since this was changed to a 1.9 pump housing I wasn't too sure where the idle fueling should be. i think all I need to do is turn the fueling up a bit to get it to idle. The position of the throttle may need to be changed as well, not sure about that.
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Get custom gear made from stock pulley.... Like old adj gasser cam gear
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One ive been using long time... 3teeth of adj in slots
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I have an old NA 90 golf that's going to scrap yard, I need to pull pump and a few things off it. I work at a machine shop- I will likely have them do something like that to make it easier to time.
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I adjusted the main fuel screw in about 2 turns and then adjusted the throttle arm a couple splines and it starts and runs probably slower than it should be maybe 700 rpm or so. I just need to adjust the idle screw slightly now. It's a bit of a pain to adjust on mine, seems the only way to adjust idle is to remove the injector lines so you can get at the screw because its on the back of the pump.
just for info my M-TDI pump is a 1.9 AAZ housing with 17mm shaft, vane section, drive link and spring;
timing roller plate, timing piston & cover, rollers, camplate, head (11mm) & governor assembly all from rover 300 tdi pump
and only delivery valves from etdi, pump set at 1.40mm.
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1.6 gear middle hole wrong size..... I plan to get them made up for 1.6 though...so cake to set timming...
Bbob is interested in one after i texted him the above pic over a mo ago... I never too a build photo as i had others say it would not work... M
I used stainless washers, lock washers, nuce cap head screws, i did add loctite in the build to addittle security... But the lock washers did their jobs as you could watch them work... But if and fall out... Getta hurt things...
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I was thinking about trying to add mass something like the AHL pulley -I wonder if that would help vibration a bit as well, since this is just a 17mm pump drive.
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Imo... My steel plate and bolts got it close to a "shaved" mk 4 style one... Too thick to fit under timming cover if not shaved down..... Id also try to keep all bolts close to dead nuts for balance purpose... Mine i checked on rc plane prop balancer...
Off balance would kill the bushing imo...
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I should mention one more thing I did to the pump. Since I read, an didn't see any purpose to the spring and lever that only moves a fraction of an inch with the throttle, I removed the spring and lever, and cut the lever arm that was inside the pump, cut so the shaft won't touch anything. Shaft is only left in the pump to seal it.
I report back once I have it running in the other car if I actually notice any problems without it.
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The guy who schooled me on pumps states its freeken awsome as its like vnt in a way, uses throttle position in conjunction with govener to assist in timming advance.... Never seen anything like it and really wants to screw with my settings...
Think manual vnt controler for the pump... Mostlikely why ive never gotten rolling coal... I can get puffs of soot sitting still, with load on it down road... Nope...
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I can roll coal pretty easily... Well less easily now that my turbo is closer to working, but I can definitely make smoke.
PS I'll be interested to see if that weirdo lever has any impact on idle speed regulation!
Sent from my HTC One XL using Tapatalk
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No idle speed problems so far, as I didn't have any rad or coolant, I just wanted to make sure I could get it running and didn't have the camplate 180° out or something like that. Just holding it a idle at what I figured was 1000 rpm no fluctuation, but no load either - no none of the belts hooked up.
It will be interesting to see once in the car I plan to put it in, with all accessories on if it has a problem without that lever.
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Yeah mine idles pretty solidly but it really is happiest idling at around 1050 RPM. Anything lower than that and the alternator pulls it down too low when the GPs or engine fan are on. My old 1.6 pump would hold the idle steady within 50 RPM more or less no matter what happened, but it had the completely separate idle speed regulator.
I've noticed that rocking the little doohicky on the side of the pump back and forth does cause a slight barely perceptible change in engine note, but I can't say what it is actually doing. I'd really like to know what it touches inside the pump but I'm sure not going to open mine up just for that!
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The control collar lever / lever that controls fueling inside the pump is slightly different than the vw IDI ones. I know it is longer, had to be for a DI pump, but the lever had an extra bit that must work along with it's governor. takes very slight pressure to compress it something like the idle spring on the governor lever. Maybe they work together somehow and limit idle drops or increases along with that other lever we don't know what it's for, it's questionable what it does??