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Engine Specific Info and Questions => mTDI Mechanical TDI Conversions => Topic started by: CRSMP5 on September 27, 2010, 12:18:48 am
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using the search button i found some info, but not enough what i have...
0460414099 from a land-rover defender 2.5 aka 300 tdi
fitting it i think i can use this link http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=152265
i have a AHU engine from a 98 jetta, the ability to buy above mentioned fuel pump. i am building a tdi-m and seek help on things like what nozzles to use and any tech on using the rover pump. for now i plan to just use it before rebuilding my AHU and sending the pump up to giles (sp??) for boost in power.
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well i now have the pump in hand.. :D still looking for education...
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I hope you can find some details here: http://switchamotor.blogspot.com
You need to customize the bracket and the rear end support. I took the outlet valves from the old 1Z pump (they are shorter) and after that the injector pipes fits perfectly. When I tested my engine with the Landy-pump it was rev'ing pretty darn good. I think you should test it first before sending it away. :)
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i do plan to test it 1st. :D i got my bracket sunday.. one of my tdi customers works at a machine shop and hooked me up :D he is even willing to do the mod for others who seek/require it for later pumps even as he now knows what needs done.
anyone needing the AHU/1z bracket modded shoot me a pm and ill get you his # he had mine modded in a day..
thanks for the link, the pump timming photo and rover timming info is great.
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i had a nightmare getting my 300tdi pump to work on a 1z but when it worked it really worked good luck with it
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Anyone had any luck with a cold start advance for these? Mine's running like a champ but could use some advance early in the morning... bit white smoky till I start off & then nice & clear.
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what did you time the pump to? i started with mine at 1.25 which seemed to create alot of white smoke from cold then went to 1.54 and the smoke situation was much the same but the car didnt seem to perform aswell, the timing is now somewhere in between them to figures cant remember where but the smoke from cold is completely gone and the car performs well. i know its not the answer to your question but thought it might be useful info
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It's around 1.2, perhaps a titch more advance is required. Performance is awesome, it pulls like a freight train & i'm climbing a local mountain pass (malahat) in 4th at speed without touching 1000deg. Totally uncomparable to the old AAZ.
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Anyone had any luck with a cold start advance for these? Mine's running like a champ but could use some advance early in the morning... bit white smoky till I start off & then nice & clear.
Haven't tried it yet but will do. I'll tell you when I've done it.
According to my spec's the LR pump should have 1.54 mm with EGR and 1.4 mm without. Try a little more default advance maybe?
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I have a Rover pump and may do a mTDI in Mk1 - Caddy.
To make thins fit as far as trany goes I was thinking of using the 5th (.71) gear of a late FN or FF and putting it in a
ASF, AON, ACN, ACL (8v) 3.67 3.45 1.94 1.37 1.03 0.75 trany - in order for it to be able to handle added HP and torque.
Now for the clutch I was wanting to use the 210 flywheel - and maybe use a gasser one since it would be lighter - any comments or suggestions on this matter - also I will need a stout clutch to mate the two together - does anyone have any good recommendations?
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im using a ctn box from a passat with a 1z engine which has stood up fine to the abuse ive give it, its also got very long ratio,s aparently. 1z/g60 flywheel and stock vr6 clutch more than capable
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Did the trans mount bolt up to Mk1 frame and what kind of shifting mechanism did you use - I presume cable shifting - how different was that to instal? Was the cabling the correct length?
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Smiffle 88 - also did you use the V belt system or Serpentine Belt system - I was told that the S - belt system with the TDI accessories bracketry with the AC compressor and all would not fit in the Mk1 engine bay - is this true?
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the front panel needs clearanced to fit tdi ac in a mk1.. i still got to figure out a way to run ac with no power steering but still drive the water pump..
any o2o will work.. i still beleive a 81-84 diesel ff tranny has best 5th.. newer look at ring/pinion ratios as they will be taller.. :P
all 210mm is gas... diesels had 200mm.. 16v/mk3 use a bigger clutch spline but are also 210mm so make sure the disk is for the tranny..
my thoughts are 02a tdi tranny.. i want to pull 200+hp and 350+ft/lbs of torque when done and well 020 not made for the torque its going to make.. also 228mm clutch.. hydro so can use really stiff pressure plates that cables will not like
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the front panel needs clearanced to fit tdi ac in a mk1.. i still got to figure out a way to run ac with no power steering but still drive the water pump..
any o2o will work.. i still beleive a 81-84 diesel ff tranny has best 5th.. newer look at ring/pinion ratios as they will be taller.. :P
all 210mm is gas... diesels had 200mm.. 16v/mk3 use a bigger clutch spline but are also 210mm so make sure the disk is for the tranny..
my thoughts are 02a tdi tranny.. i want to pull 200+hp and 350+ft/lbs of torque when done and well 020 not made for the torque its going to make.. also 228mm clutch.. hydro so can use really stiff pressure plates that cables will not like
This is a vanagon but shows you some belt options.
(http://www.haywood-sullivan.com/vanagon/TDI/TDI_1Z_Motor_50_degrees.100_alt.gif)
all aaz engines had a 210mm flywheel. You can use that or the 210mm gasser if you want to run an 020. You just have to be aware of the gasser timing mark differences.
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well what i need is a split waterpump pully.. one that uses shims to set the waterpump belt tension..
in some sick demmented way i think dasher diesels and quantium diesels had a split waterpump pully.. diesel vanagons used non ac al set ups so not that.. but maybe a gasser vanagon has a split pully... like i said.. gotta do some reserch on hat.. or take 2 pullies and make my own..
in your photo thats the stock tdi with ps set up.. :(
sadly i do not think i can sneek a vr6 pully on it to run the waterpump due to the tensoner wheels diameter..
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for the pump gear, since i want to mount my pump solid, lack a k4 pully set up, lacks keyway anyways, i am going to have a adjustable gear mde up, much like a gasser adjustable cam gear, ill do the same on the stock pump gear so i can time it like a mk4 but not have to hassle with finding and modding mk4 pieces or modding slots ito the pump mounts :D
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for the pump gear, since i want to mount my pump solid, lack a k4 pully set up, lacks keyway anyways, i am going to have a adjustable gear mde up, much like a gasser adjustable cam gear, ill do the same on the stock pump gear so i can time it like a mk4 but not have to hassle with finding and modding mk4 pieces or modding slots ito the pump mounts :D
I can't imagine why you are going to such lengths for no reason I can really see. Just install the pump lock pin when you're tightening the 17mm nut for the pump shaft flange so you know it'll be accessable when locking the pump at TDC when changing the timing belt. Also the ALH sprocket (& other VE driving sprockets) weighs over 10lbs for a reason... I don't think the pump will like your lightweight gasser cam bits.
(http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/715639.jpg)
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Ok I have a question.
I have a brand new landy pump and a 98 AHU. I finally received my mk4 ALH pump sprocket, but my question is, how is the sprocket mounted to the landy pump? I test fitted the sprocket to the land pump today, and none of the bolt slots lined up. Also I have read from blackdogvan, that the sprocket will not line up with the cam gear if the land sprocket adapter is used.
I want to say my understanding is that I need to find a ALH pump sprocket adapter thingy' and mount it on the shaft of the landy pump, than mount the sprocket to it using the three bolts, just like on a alh? Am I even remotely close to having this correct?
I know about resizing the hole in the pump mount and building the rear bracket for the pump, the only confusion is how the sprocket is incorporated.
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I just used the alh sprocket and hub & slapped it all together.
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I just used the alh sprocket and hub & slapped it all together.
I figured that, although that information was never actually said (or i never saw it). I went to my local diesel shop and got the hub. Super cool guys in there and just gave it to me for FREE! So I'm in business now. Just need to start putting it together.
Thanks for the help
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back from the dead.. burnt toast reasons
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Can anyone tell me how to remove the pulley hub on Rover pump? I am trying to remove it to install the ALH hub, but it will not budge. Constant heating w/ a MAP torch has not worked and I even broke one of the jaws on a cheap puller.
TIA..
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non cheap puller.. also my inital setting is 118.. seems pretty good to me..
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non cheap puller.. also my inital setting is 118.. seems pretty good to me..
What have you done to the timing advance? I have a low idle for few min when its cold but works itself out after a few min. Do you have the same
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no idle issue here.. fires within the 1st revolution.. little bit of grey smoke.. white would be unburnt.. black would be rich..
i did 4 washers for the gov mod.. had the ide set too low.. but now that ive bumped that up does not shake the toaster too badle.. much higher on idle it starts to carry the rpm up up and away..
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Besides the gov what else did you do to the pump. I am still using the land rover gov. Ready to play with my pump now since I got miles on my fresh motor. Really looking for the rite advance spring and pump pressure setup, seems to lack advance after idle. My car starts very fast bump of the key and its running.
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4 washers for gov mod.. thats it for me so far..
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bump for 8v of fury
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thank-you kind sir :)
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for theman
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I'm looking into this as well - do only the 300 tdi landy pumps work? Are there other pumps that fit? 4BT cummins seem to be scarce commodity as well. I have several vw pumps - a 1.6 (no lda) a 1.9 and a 1Z tdi. Will it be easiest to use faq and modify these to make one Mtdi?
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8v of fury thought he could build one... now has rover one... talk to him...
libby has new pumps... good prce... think they cummins.. not sure..
and you see the info i had... the man was wanting to know my part # so was easier for me to bump thread vs his search...
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My prior supply of base pumps has run dry. I am not sure if, when or at what price I will have more.
I believe the Land Rover 200TDI is the same pump as the 300TDI but you'd want to confirm. Recently I was surfing eBay UK and saw an Isuzu pump for a DI engine that looked like it would be a 100% bolt-on for an AHU...
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My prior supply of base pumps has run dry. I am not sure if, when or at what price I will have more.
I believe the Land Rover 200TDI is the same pump as the 300TDI but you'd want to confirm. Recently I was surfing eBay UK and saw an Isuzu pump for a DI engine that looked like it would be a 100% bolt-on for an AHU...
link it up!! ;)
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I didn't put it on my watch list and have since gone back searching a couple times to no avail. I think it was for a 2.8L engine. It even came with the 4 TDI injectors...
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It is fairly easy to make your own M-tdi pump out of what you have, if you have the skill and tools.
There are very minor parts that need precision work in order to accomplish making the pump have enough internal throttle throw for the DI cam plate profile and injection stroke. They have a larger injection because their injectors can flow quite a bit more fuel per injection stroke.
I have run a VW TDI engine on a bone stock 1.6/1.9 IDI pump, and still had more power than a stock 1.6 TD or 1.9 AAZ.
I went to a Rover pump because it was for sale in this continent for a steal.. I wanted to learn.. and it had the 11mm rotor ;)
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I have these pumps so I think I will give it a try. I have work at a machine shop so I have some tools at my disposal if I muck-it-up so to speak. However, libbydiesel - if you get a new supply and have a one to sell, I would still be interested in a month or two.
The faq isn't really clear on what the better base to use is - is the 1.9 the base/pump housing to use or is the 1.6 better? Or no difference? I guess I need to take them apart and see what I have as well.
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Well you see. It depends on what 1.9 pump you have and what external goodes it has and whether or not you want to use them.
I only did half the mods when I was delving in to that bit of it.. but I have been in many 1.6 and 1.9 pumps and the cases are more or less identical save for early 1.5/6 stuff with no load timing stuff in the governor.
Id use the 1.9 base with its governor wheel assembly and then a 1.6td lid for simplcity sake.. easier throttle springs and a functioning lda boost pin.
I have been meaning to rewrite the faq on the mtdi scene.. as I have been very intimate with it the last year.. I just havent found the time.
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Set static timing of stock 1.6 or 1.9 pumps at 157 or 158 and it will act more like a direct injection pump - than otherwise!
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the 200 and 300 tdi pumps i have striped seem the same , i have striped a few and build them in to pug 1.9 idi bodys as thay bolt up to the 1z and afn , there ok but i mod them for more lb/t , i am dont care about high rpm hp , as i just want to sip the juice and at 260 lb/t at 1700 ish is good for me
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Bosch part number is
0460414080, or last 3 digits 099,098,069,136,194,205
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part# in 1st post of my pump has the tps on it..