VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.
Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: mtnbob on August 29, 2010, 09:02:01 pm
-
I purchased a TD long block from Tyler this summer(Thanks Tyler ;D) The motor has a questionable history and may or may not have had a rebuild. It supposedly was rebuilt but then sat for years without being broken in properly and the rings never seated. I have it home and on an engine stand and am starting to take pictures as I slowly progress. I want to turn this motor into a daily driver for my 86 Golf.
Questions
1) I assume that I need to take it apart to see what I have. Are there any books detailing the process other than the Bentley books that I have?
2) Will I be able to measure clearances of wear items to determine if they need to be replaced? Can I tell by looking at them or taking pictures of them and asking on here?
3) Suggestions on what order I should progress? There are some misc items on the motor that I am removing (broken compressor, pulleys) I would think I would start with the head and work down but open to any suggestions.
I'm sure I will have tons of questions as I progress and everyone on this site has been great in the past. I'm hoping for some advice as I progress. It is going to go as fast as I can afford extra parts and tools 8)
-
Link to my pics http://www.flickr.com/photos/11904434@N05/sets/72157624712966321/with/4940391166/ (http://www.flickr.com/photos/11904434@N05/sets/72157624712966321/with/4940391166/)
-
I will post again when I get it pulled apart and cleaned up, to see what I have. I will also take plenty of pics as I go. ;D
-
Early Bentley's (mk1 and mk2) are great guides for rebuilds. Get some simple measuring tools (micrometer, inside bore gauges and digital calipers) to see what actually needs to be replaced/machined. Some things last thousands of miles, such as main bearings, oil pumps, etc.
-
Ok thanks! those will be the first things that I buy :) I have a decent bunch of tools, but nothing for measuring clearances. How much do you have to pay to get decent calipers and gauges?
-
Get some plastigauge at your local McParts store for measuring main and rod bearings. It's cheap and accurate.
-
Here's an alternative approach to consider...purely as an alternative: tear the engine down completely, clean it well, and then march the pistons and block to a machinist you trust. He/she will have the tools/experience/feel needed to accurately size up your engine and recommend any work that needs to be done. Probably about the same cost (or less) of acquiring at least two micrometers, a selection of bore gauges, etc *and* specific to the bore gauges it actually takes a fair amount of practice to get reproducible results you can count on.
I'm a "spare no expense in the tool department" kinda guy... so this is a strange perspective for me to be offering... but having tried both approaches several times my measurements were never as good as the machinist's and I don't rebuild enough engines to get good at it... I Plastigauge the bearings etc but leave the pistons and bores to the guy/gal with big tools and big experience. If the bores need work the machinist is gonna need the block anyways.
Just my perspective... and having said all that...finding a machinist isn't always easy either... *and* sometimes it's just fun to go for it. EBay has good deals on micrometers and bore gauges all the time... folks cleaning out their grandfather's shop etc.
Vince
-
Hmmmmm oh great give a guy with ADD choices!!!!! LOL :o
It's something to consider, especially since I live in an area where it is inexpensive to get work done. I'll just have to find someone who has a decent rep.
-
The head is off. There don't appear to be any cracks between the valves. They are machined down between the valves, I don't know if they come like that or it was done later. The pistons had numbers on them that match up to original piston spec numbers in my Bentley book, so they must be original. I won't know much more until I get the bottom end apart and get some pistons and cylinders measured.
Link to my pics http://www.flickr.com/photos/11904434@N05/sets/72157624712966321/with/4940391166/
-
all looks normal to me. I know how you feel, I am a TD newb as well. :D
-
Thanks, I've been reading your post with great interest ;D It all helps you learn more about these engines and to get advice from some of the VW gurus on here is fantastic!!
-
I got the pistons out tonight ;D Still trying to figure out how to get the crank bolts on the edge out. The pistons are made by Mahle. Are they a stock supplier, or are these aftermarket?
-
Any suggestions on how to remove the crank pulley? Is there a simple way to do it or a certain tool I need to get it off?
-
Why are you taking this engine apart?
Why are you looking for trouble?
Why are you as a 'rookie' galloping towards unneccessary expence, and a possible mistake.
If that engine has been 'laid up' for a few years, the first test would have been to try and turn it over with a wrench. If it did, then that is all you needed to do, because if it had any significant moisture ingress, it would not turn over.
That head is in v good condition IMO. There is no corrosion on the edges of the water passages, and gasket clearly was sealing.
Did you plastigauge the big ends?
With the sump off, and head off and an assistant turning the crank gently back and forth you could have tested for play with your finger tips, and not started running up the wanga payments... A cheap pair of dividers,[even toy ones!] and a $10 digital vernier gauge is all you need to check the bores
Good luck.
-
Libbybapa has a tool that I copied to remove the gear.
Take a long piece of angle iron. Cut a hole into it so it goes over the crank gear. Drill 2 holes into it so you can put bolts through them. They would go where the pulley bolts on. That should hold the crank and then you just take it off. Sometimes and impact can take it off too.
-
Mark
1) I am taking this engine apart because it was "supposedly rebuilt", but had poor compression. From the looks of things, the head looks almost new, and it looks like they did a hone and re-ring job. I have no way of knowing what was done and I want this to be a daily driver for years to come.
2) The trouble already exists and it is easier to work on the motor out of the car on an engine stand, which is where it is now.
3) Being a rookie has never stopped me before and I have been learning for a few years on this site. I am confident that I can work anything out along with the great people on this site ;D
4) Engine turns over smoothly but that is not enough to determine the engine is decent.
5) Agreed
6) Will be doing soon.
7) I don't have much money, but I have plenty of time since this is not the engine currently in my car.
I thank you for any advice you can give me as this rebuild progresses, I am looking forward to the journey.