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Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: James8485 on June 16, 2010, 01:56:05 pm
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this may sound rediculous but my last Diesel was an AAZ so it had a hard plastic or rubbery gasket so quiet easy to replace.....
my new 1.6TD has a cork one and i did replace it but obviouly i did it wrong as its leaking alittle......
any tips to changing it?? like can i use goop as well as the gasket to ensure a good seal or is there no need??
thanks for the replys in advance as im sure you guys will have the right answers as you always do!!!!!
Cheers
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Use 1-piece gasket set that was usually ordered for the G60 engines. That can be found at http://www.germanautoparts.com/Volkswagen/Jetta/Engine/102/4. (http://www.germanautoparts.com/Volkswagen/Jetta/Engine/102/4.) If you plan to replace it for the first time, buy a kit first- it's 2nd from the top.
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why do need to buy the kit??? why do i nee d the studs when there are already studs sticking up
can i just go to local parts store and buy the rubber valve cover gasket for G60?
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if you saw the rubber gasket, it has metal inserts where the studs go through. the studs are definitely different, and are necessary to run the rubber gasket.
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well i think i will just buy another cork one (10.00) and alittle high temp gasket shi and the fact that i wont be taking off the valve cover anytime soon, i wont have to worry about any oil gettng through the cracks....
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any tips to changing it?? like can i use goop as well as the gasket to ensure a good seal or is there no need??
The main tip is: don't overtighten it. The stock torque is very very very small... basically screwdriver tight, if that, and if you go any farther the valve cover distorts enough that the overly-compressed cork gasket actually leaks worse. Its a viscous cycle... people over-tighten them to begin with, they leak, and so folks tighten them even more... and so on.
Two tiny little drops of gasket sealant where the cork joins the rubber ring over the cam bearing are a good idea, but otherwise a straight valve cover with the correct torque generally won't leak at all, and of course is much easier to replace later.
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What thickness is the material ?
Another product to made in silicone...
-65 to + 550
GB
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I would recommend going for the rubber gasket... the cork ones would always leak on me (guess I never got the torque amount correct) I also switched to hex-bolts instead of going with the stud replacement.
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Never had a drip from 'fancy' vcg, highly recommend for any diesel, proven twice over with both a stock valve cover and the G60 presently on there (thanks again Vince)! A note also with the cork gasket, install dry sans any RTV/silicone, once you torque it, it simply slips right out from in between!!!
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You can get the rubber 1 piece for $10 from AutohausAZ.com
Application is 93-98 GAS VW (golf-jetta) aba engine.
Remember - Gas Engine.
You can price same application (i usually say 95 jetta) at local sources and see what they price it for.
You have to remove the old studs, they are shouldered.
Can re-use your old nuts.
I got strait studs from local nut&bult supply for about a nickel each - and they have allen head recess at top. I put the studs in with blue loctite. I could remove/install this thing 300+ times probly - and for under $12 investment.
You'll have more than that invested after you buy your second corker. Then eventually a third, fourth, , , , ,
Just offering friendly advice :)
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may be a dumb question but whats the difference in the studs between tthe one for the cork and the ones for the rubber?
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Length is the big difference but also the shoulder and portions which are threaded are different between the two.
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The shouldered section of the studs has a larger diameter than the threaded section.
The larger diameter of the shoulder will not clear the metal grommet in the 1pc. rubber gasket. So you have to get new strait studs when switching to the 1pc. rubber gasket.
6mm stud x 30mm length
if you get strait studs - install them with blue loctite - then they won't roll in or back out when servicing.
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I think I remember using the stock shouldered studs, but removing the little spacers from the rubber gasket. I've also bought black oxide allen head bolts from lowes that are pretty cool, but had to watch the length on the blind holes, there are a couple. Screw that cork gasket.
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I looked at removing the grommets one time. Looked like too much trouble, and then the loss of the German engineering factor.
First time i bought the gaskets from AhausAZ they were out of stock on the studs.
VW sells the strait studs for like 40-50 cents each.
Would probably have to be ordered (2 trips to dealer) - my closest VW dealer didn't stock them when i checked.
Thats when i sourced them from a nut&bolt supplier.
If anyone wants some - i'll get them and sell you a set of 8 for $2 plus $1 postage (USA). These studs have allen head recesses at top which is a nice feature for installing them. Or removing them.
Black oxide coated.
You can't beat a studded fastener and a rubber 1pc. gasket on a shaky old diesel valve cover.