VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.
Engine Specific Info and Questions => TDI Engine -General Info => Topic started by: GEE-BEE on June 23, 2014, 12:37:35 pm
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http://pauter.com/parts/rods/audi-vw/
Iam sending a rod and piston assy for a perfect match...
std rods 875.00 set
TI rods 1100.00 each
Thanx Fed Ex for loosing my pkg and making me a extra 6700.00 last week
GB
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why??
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Why what ?
Cause its a build.....
Maybe one day you will sit down and order a 997TT and go thru a 52 page catalog of options
Some people wonder why one car can be 143k and another can be 197k
Same car on the outside correct ?
Then spend another 18k on a TI Akrapovic exhaust, you will probly ask why...
Cause you can, and you are free to do whatever you want ?
Pautner also makes std rods also..
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Just wondering what advantages there are in a low rpm engine. In that case can you send your tdi head to be digitized and Cnc ported?
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Just wondering what advantages there are in a low rpm engine. In that case can you send your tdi head to be digitized and Cnc ported?
I would guess that even low rpm engine it has lots of force acting on the rods. I don't know the compression of the TDI off the top of my head, I guess it to be 18:1 and the IDI's are 23:1. Add a turbo and 5,000-6,000 rpm and there is reason to be worried.
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At any speed, reciprocating mass is even worse than rotating mass.
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Are you kidding me? Have you ever heard of anyone breaking a TDI rod, EVER? I am not talking about spinning a rod bearing, actually breaking or bending rod w/o some other catastrophic failure?
IIRC I remember that these bottom ends are very stout. Like 800-1000 hp drag motors with a pretty much stock bottom ends.
Unless he is making some HUGE hp numbers, I expect they will have no benefit beyond one upsmanship. It sounds like a case of vast resources with half vast ideas.
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Turbodiesels break the rods at low rpm. 5-600nm @1800rpm is alot to take...
But the stock TDi rods can take a beating no doubt! Seen sylinder cracked with stock rods...
But still, if you want the best, it doesn't matter if stock is "good enough". The best is better with less chance of failure...
Sent from my cheapchinaphone using Tapatalk
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Are you kidding me? Have you ever heard of anyone breaking a TDI rod, EVER? I am not talking about spinning a rod bearing, actually breaking or bending rod w/o some other catastrophic failure?
IIRC I remember that these bottom ends are very stout. Like 800-1000 hp drag motors with a pretty much stock bottom ends.
Unless he is making some HUGE hp numbers, I expect they will have no benefit beyond one upsmanship. It sounds like a case of vast resources with half vast ideas.
Yes, I have. I have also held the stock TDI rods in my hand. Even though they are longer they weigh less than the 1.6 rod. They are tough, but not near as tough as our IDI rods.
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One of my Ducati has ti rods ( v4 998 cc ) 240 hp
The valve and the rods are ti
This was a oem setup for this model...
Weight and strength
GB
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Are you kidding me? Have you ever heard of anyone breaking a TDI rod, EVER? I am not talking about spinning a rod bearing, actually breaking or bending rod w/o some other catastrophic failure?
Yes.
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http://pauter.com/parts/rods/audi-vw/
Iam sending a rod and piston assy for a perfect match...
std rods 875.00 set
TI rods 1100.00 each
Thanx Fed Ex for loosing my pkg and making me a extra 6700.00 last week
GB
Maybe I have a reading comprehension problem. ???
"Iam sending" means you have not sent it yet.
"Thanx Fed Ex for loosing my pkg and making me a extra 6700.00 last week" sounds like you have sent it and they lost it and you made money out of the deal? an extra $6700? How? Did you insure it for more than actual value?
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I saw enough broken rods on TDIClub that I decided to upgrade when I built my engine. If you are doing a performance build you probably are going to upgrade the rod bolts plus get your factory rods resized by a machine shop, so why not spend a little more and upgrade them. The cost of rebuilding an engine that has experienced a rod failure is waaaay more than the incremental cost for upgraded rods.
I went with the Integrated Engineering Tuscan rods:
http://www.performancebyie.com/integrated-engineering-tuscan-144x26mm-1-9l-tdi-rods
They fit the AHU/1Z perfectly including clearing the intermediate shaft oil pump drive gear which is a problem with some of the aftermarket rods out there.
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those are good also
Ref : fed ex
I bought a new set of electric recaros from the east coast, insured for top dollar, paid low
fed ex lost the 110 lbs box (52 inches tall )
they dont care,claim paid
I found another set of used for 180.00 recaro's
Iam doing a complete int and new scirocco fabric for the inserts
I will do the TI rods, its a business expense so who cares...
Iam not giving any extra money to fly the preisdent around in a 747
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I saw enough broken rods on TDIClub that I decided to upgrade when I built my engine. If you are doing a performance build you probably are going to upgrade the rod bolts plus get your factory rods resized by a machine shop, so why not spend a little more and upgrade them.
Broken rods or broken rod bolts? Broken rods because they spun a bearing and kept driving? I am talking about a rod failure. Its easy to tell. A broken or bent rod with an intact piston and rod bearing is the usual indication that the rod failed first. If the bearing is spun that is likely the first point of failure. If the cap is broken or missing without any signs of bearing failure that is usually a sign of rod bolt failure.
FWIW you almost NEVER do anything but go backwards when having things like rod bearing bores resized. If you have 2 places in the state that can do anywhere near as good a job as the factory finish you are doing really well. I have had a lot of machine work done over the years and even the most highly regarded are suspect, if they aren't doing SBCs. Cope Bros probably can, but I do not think they do jobber work. The only machine shop in which I had any faith at all was bought out by a chain who shut down that "greasy stuff they were doing in back". At this point there is nobody in western Washington that I would trust to do the big end of a rod on anything other than a grocery getter.
I suspect that you were also seeing a number of "oil pump failures" on the TDI Club as well. In nearly 50 years of poking around inside broken motors I have never seen an oil pump failure that was not FOD or trauma from other broken bit whirling around. So called "oil pump failure" means they ran it out of oil. "Connecting rod failure" almost always means they ran it out of oil and kept driving it until they ventilated the block.
Now when you start making huge hp numbers or the rods are particularly weak, rods do sometimes bend or break. This is, however, not common. Now if you have the money and want bragging rights, be my guest, just please don't try to blow smoke up our collective dresses about how important or useful unobtainium rods are.
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Personally I didn't consider $600 (which is about what I paid) to be unobtainable, especially as a percentage of the total I put in to my build. My plans were for more than 2x stock power output.
The 'conventional wisdom' on TDIClub is the stock rods are good up to around 180HP or so. After that you are on borrowed time. Most of the components used in my build were chosen with a target in the 200-230HP range. When VW went to the PD engines they strengthened the rods, so evidently their highly experienced engineers considered it worthwhile.
As to the specific cause of the failures (rod bolts versus lack of oil versus actual rod failure) it is hard to know. Having not actually had one blow apart myself all I have is forum posts. There's been a handful of AAZs on here with windowed blocks though the rod bolts have generally been suspect in those cases. The AHU/1Z uses the same rods as the AAZ. My searching during my planning period found about a half dozen windowed AAZ/AHU/1Z engines all of which seemed to have oil in them at the time given the mess that resulted.
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Iam really sorry I posted this now...
No positive energy here
GB
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Iam really sorry I posted this now...
No positive energy here
GB
GB, ignore the trolls. You get thumbs up from me, but then again, I'm not the jealous and insecure type. Well, maybe a little jealous... :-) ...but not enought to keep me from enjoying living vicariously. ;)
The AHU/1Z uses the same rods as the AAZ. My searching during my planning period found about a half dozen windowed AAZ/AHU/1Z engines all of which seemed to have oil in them at the time given the mess that resulted.
The AAZ and AHU rods are very different. The AAZ rod has the counterweight on the big end, whereas the AHU rod is waaay stronger with the channels of the H filled and then some with metal.
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Toby, I am getting complaints about you again. Please comment on what you have knowledge of. You obviously don't know what the peak cylinder pressures do in more than stock HP engines. Overall if you can't be courteous when disagreeing with people here don't post. You have been banned before so this is your last chance.
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Its bad manners to speak negatively about a item someone else are trying to sell, at least if there is nothing wrong with the actual item. Example if the stock rods were stronger than the upgraded. Its pretty clear that that's not the case here!
Questions and statements about how strong the stock rods are and if upgraded rods are worth it should be in another tread.
As i previously stated: upgraded is always better, even if stock is good enough. And i guess these are lighter then stock which is positive regardless of final power output...
Sent from my cheapchinaphone using Tapatalk
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I saw enough broken rods on TDIClub that I decided to upgrade when I built my engine. If you are doing a performance build you probably are going to upgrade the rod bolts plus get your factory rods resized by a machine shop, so why not spend a little more and upgrade them. The cost of rebuilding an engine that has experienced a rod failure is waaaay more than the incremental cost for upgraded rods.
I went with the Integrated Engineering Tuscan rods:
http://www.performancebyie.com/integrated-engineering-tuscan-144x26mm-1-9l-tdi-rods
They fit the AHU/1Z perfectly including clearing the intermediate shaft oil pump drive gear which is a problem with some of the aftermarket rods out there.
Nice goods. I wish they'd had those when I ordered, they're half the price and I had to clearance #4 shoulder because it hit my intermediate shaft gear.
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/mccavittj/DSC00136.jpg)
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Yeah I figured they were a good option. Not as strong as the ones you have but plenty for my build and much more affordable!