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For Sale/Looking For => Vendors Section => Topic started by: 935racer on June 26, 2007, 02:04:21 pm
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Alright guys you talked me back into, heres what we are going to do:
Moving to stainless steel, never thought we would but it is a bit different than what everyone else is using. We do a lot of sanitary stainless tig welding and fab here and the sanitary fittings are a lot thicker throughout the bend than a traditional mandrel U bend, the reason for that is simply because the sanitary fittings are formed hot, and the mandrel U bends are formed cold. I will be getting pictures up here to show the difference.
I know I have preached about stainless being a poor choice for exhaust many times before, and I'll still never use it for an exhaust manifold, but we have built a few audi s4 downpipes lately for some locals and as long as they are back purged they don't crack. Most manufactures out there like techtonics tuning and 034 motorsport don't backpurge their welds and thats why they crack. Of course we will be welding ours properly, so you can expect your downpipe to last a lifetime.
And on to pricing:
For a 3" stainless DP with flex joint and no flange connection on the end of the downpipe will be $339CAD.
With the V band connection for $379CAD
Yes its a lot more than out old ones but this is virtually the only way I found that we can keep doing them in a timely manner. The 3" is something I've wanted to produce for a while, I've made 2, 3" downpipes for 1.9's with 1.6 turbos and they spool up as fast as the tiny k14's do.
The only other aftermarket downpipe I know if right know is the techtonics downpipe for the mk1, its only 2.25", crappy welding, no flange solution on the end and is $300USD...
SO what are your guys thoughts and opinions?
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Ok, what about reg steel?
I dont want stainless really.
dan
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Also, What about selling the parts for those of us that want/can build it ourselfs?
dan
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THe problem with steel is that a 3" U bend the tightest radius I can get is 6", which is too big for our engine bays. With the stainless I can get them in a 3.5" radius.
As soon as we can get our mill back up and going we will sell the flanges.
(If anyone knows where we can find a Dynapath S10 graphics board our CNC would get up a lot sooner)
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Give me a part number for the board if ya would. I think I have found two of them.
Jim
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Give me a part number for the board if ya would. I think I have found two of them.
Jim
SWEET!
Ok just pulled the board out.
Heres some #'s I grabbed
s10 Perpheral Control
Jan 14 1985
BIC634
4200547 SN
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http://cncpartsnortheast.com/front/showdetail/2098
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Saving up money.... now! :lol:
can you make a flange to fit the VNT-17?
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Dave, he's calling you in a few min. with the board in his hand.
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Dave, you may want to check this one out as well. They have multiple boards for 700ish. They also have the schematics you are looking for.
Jim
http://www.ellingsenresearch.com/
Ask for Warren. He will be there untill 9pm eastern time.
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How long do you expect one to last?
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Will this do away with the need to ceramic coat?
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Ok just pulled the board out.
Heres some #'s I grabbed
s10 Perpheral Control
Jan 14 1985
BIC634
4200547 SN
Thats not the graphics board part number Dave, that's the peripheral control board. It contains the tape reader interface and some other functions. You need the graphics controller. Maybe I've been looking for the wrong schematic all along. In any case I just sent you every autocon/dynapath system 10 and delta 10 schematic I have. You should have them this week.
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How long do you expect one to last?
They will come with a 10 year warranty. The only way I see them failing would be under missuse or modification.
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Will this do away with the need to ceramic coat?
From a corrosion standpoint yes, from a thermal barrier standpoint no.
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Can 3" pipe be fit the rest the way of the car? I'm not sure i would have any luck fitting 3" over the axle.
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Ok just pulled the board out.
Heres some #'s I grabbed
s10 Perpheral Control
Jan 14 1985
BIC634
4200547 SN
Thats not the graphics board part number Dave, that's the peripheral control board. It contains the tape reader interface and some other functions. You need the graphics controller. Maybe I've been looking for the wrong schematic all along. In any case I just sent you every autocon/dynapath system 10 and delta 10 schematic I have. You should have them this week.
Dammit, which one is the graphics board than? I traced wiring from the monitor back to the dynapath and it came into that board, on the front of the dynapath its plug is j11-crt. Man now I am confused what the heck am I supposed to be looking for :lol: This is definitely not my department :cry:
Thanks for sending the Schematics Bruce, you've been a huge help, I really appreciate that.
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I'm admittedly not a dynapath expert, I just bought the dealer out, so don't trust me! I just assumed the graphics board controlled the monitor, perhaps not if the cable does indeed go to the peripheral control board. I've never actually seen a system 10 control in one piece before, and unfortunately, I don't have any schematics left to consult :D , but you will soon! Make sure the schematic matches the board in question, I sent you 7kg's of the stuff so it's kind of multiple choice... Best of luck with the fix...
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I'm admittedly not a dynapath expert, I just bought the dealer out, so don't trust me! I just assumed the graphics board controlled the monitor, perhaps not if the cable does indeed go to the peripheral control board. I've never actually seen a system 10 control in one piece before, and unfortunately, I don't have any schematics left to consult :D , but you will soon! Make sure the schematic matches the board in question, I sent you 7kg's of the stuff so it's kind of multiple choice... Best of luck with the fix...
Sounds like a lot of schematics Bruce! I'll let you know how it all goes when the schematics show up. Thanks again.
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Can 3" pipe be fit the rest the way of the car? I'm not sure i would have any luck fitting 3" over the axle.
Absolutely. In fact I think C2 and techtonics both offer a CNC mandrel bent 3" over axle piece.
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Will there be a difference between MK 1,2,3 etc?
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Will there be a difference between MK 1,2,3 etc?
Yes mk1 will be different from the mk2/3 (which will be the same), but the other main criteria I am trying to meet is for them to be 1.6 and 1.9 (taller block) compatible, we have a lot of customers that upgrade from the 1.6 to 1.9, I'd like for them to keep the same pipe.
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So free replacement within 10 years for corrosion, cracks etc?
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So free replacement within 10 years for corrosion, cracks etc?
Yes, its SS, and a sanitary grade at that, it won't corrode, the turbine outlet flange is 1018crs, but at a half inch thick if you ever managed to corrode that your block, manifold, turbine housing etc would have rotted out much earlier.
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A4 DP?
2.5" would be fine with me.
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THe problem with steel is that a 3" U bend the tightest radius I can get is 6", which is too big for our engine bays. With the stainless I can get them in a 3.5" radius.
As soon as we can get our mill back up and going we will sell the flanges.
http://www.mandrelbending-tubefabrication.com/mandrel_tube_bending_data.html
dan
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awesome I will definetly be coming by sometime to get one Thanks
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Dave,
Will you be able to utilize any of this new technology/ source in the manufacture of your exhaust manifold? Will this help with any sort of savings in manufacture time?
Thanks, Jim
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I'm curious to know what ( back purge the weld ) means ? I've never heard about that? what does that consist of ?
thanks Duane
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I'm curious to know what ( back purge the weld ) means ? I've never heard about that? what does that consist of ?
thanks Duane
It is when you run sheilding gas on the back side of the weld, it is "purging" it of atmosphere. So if you take the downpipe for example you would cap off both ends after tacking it together, and then would insert a tube that was Y'd off your sheilding gas tank, and run shielding gas into the down pipe, as you get close to the end of the welding as things get sealed up you open up part of the cap, or make a hole in the cap (depending what you are using for caps) so that you can finish the weld without the gas trying to escape (under pressure) through your weld.
Most metals do not require back purging, but SS is a bit of an odd duck all around. When you don't backpurge you risk getting charcoaling (sp?) on the backside of the weld, leaving room for perosity and other weld imperfections. It also helps keep the HAZ (heat affected zone) smaller by being able to move faster without the worry of contamination.
Anyway this is a long post, esspetially becuase im not a welder, I just play one on TV. :P
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Well thanks for that weld tech. tip i've welded alot of stainless exaust for my own application ! the welder i use at work welds stainless for crap i usually go over my welds with a tig welder to smooth them out! but my welder at home welds stainless beutifully to where it looks like a tig job!
well knowledge is the first step to a good weld and it sounds like you know what you are doing or you are a really good actor? and what do you mean you play a welder on TV ? is this something you do in canada ? and it must not be broadcasted here in the states enlighten me on this? I hate to be a professional welder and not heard of a famous welder?
thanks Duane
I.W.L.8
(ironworkers local 8 milwaukee)
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Sorry I was kidding about the play one on TV thing, its just something I say. :lol:
I'm a ticked welder, but not a practicing one. I'm a Snap On Tools dealer now. :roll:
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ahh darn I was gonna see if you needed a stunt double next for those out of positions welds L.O.L. I guess i gotta stop taking everything so serious! well thanks for the weld tip anyways Duane
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It's a pretty common tig welding procedure, it was FAA spec'd in a lot of the aerospace welding I used to do, so it's certainly something someone welding at that calibre in the US would know too.
Uses a lot of gas though, so it's expensive. We used to come up with all sorts of dandy little purges to get the gas just where we wanted it and not waste any, the same as we'd use different tig cups to get the gas and the electrode into all sorts of odd positions.
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So basically these are k14/k24 downpipes?
Are they the same length as the stock downpipe? Where does the flange end up lying in a mk2?
BTW I'm pretty much in for one if you need buyers
myke_w
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Actually it is quite important that the cap on the end of the pipe has a small hole in it so the purge can flow out the pipe at all times. The reason being is that you want the oxygen to get out of that pipe, if its capped off completely it will try and escape from your weld seam and some oxygen will get introduced into the backside of your weld and contaminate it.
The downpipe will fit k14,k24,t2,t3 turbos found on the 1.6 and 1.9's stock. They will exit past the steering rack just like the other ones I've made.
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Sorry dave, I've never seen one, does anyone have a pic of one in the car or out?
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SWEET! Got the schematics today, they match the s10 boards I have, SN and everything. Off to the electronic engineers house tonight to see if we can fix them :shock:
Bruce you are my hero.
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Dave, to whom shall I send payment and how long before it gets to me?
Also, what is the V-Band connector?
Thanks,
myke_w
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Hey that's awesome that you're back in the DP business.
Unfortunately, I needed it 2 weeks ago as I ordered the TT pipe. I'm not bummed about the quality, but I'll have another car in the works soon and definately go for the 3" jobber.
Best of luck, sounds like there is a lot of interest with these mofos.
Garry
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Dave, to whom shall I send payment and how long before it gets to me?
Also, what is the V-Band connector?
Thanks,
myke_w
It really just depends on when I can get the mill going, the electronic engineer friend of mine is gone until this wednesday, as soon as he gets back I am gonna be all over his ass in hopes to get the mill running this weekend.
Heres the Vband or tri clamp setup I will use for the end of the downpipes.
Heres the clamp, tool free!
(http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l83/935racer/clamp.jpg)
Than two of these flanges/farrules, one welded to the downpipe, the other left free for you to add to your exhaust.
(http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l83/935racer/farrule.jpg)
Hopefully I can make these as affordable as I would like.
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I know you wanted to make these 1.6/1.9 compatable/swapable. Are they?
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What about a VNT15 from a TDI on a 1.6l in an MKI?
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What about a VNT15 from a TDI on a 1.6l in an MKI?
same but vnt17 :P (same flange right?)
any thought on doing pre-fabbed straight piped 3" side dumps or anything like that? i'm down
ready to order!
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Does anyone have any spare PP decals? I needs one badly. 8)
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Does anyone have any spare PP decals? I needs one badly. 8)
Send me your address Dale and I'll send you some stickers.
As for the vnt15/17 pipes, 3" is too big for that small of a turbo, due to the small market I doubt we will ever make a downpipe for a vnt15 in a mk1, unless you guys want to get a group buy going.
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too small? what turbo's are you making them for?
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probably stock K24's and T3's. sells more that way.
i wish i could get a nice DP for a VNT-15. my m-TDI is coming along pretty nice!
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too small? what turbo's are you making them for?
If you go too small on your turbo charger selection like a vnt15 or 17 and than you go too big on the exhaust side of that small turbo you will actually INCREASE your exhaust manifold pressure instead of reducing it like you often do when increasing DP size.
These downpipes will be ready for production in the next week or two guys!
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too small? what turbo's are you making them for?
If you go too small on your turbo charger selection like a vnt15 or 17 and than you go too big on the exhaust side of that small turbo you will actually INCREASE your exhaust manifold pressure instead of reducing it like you often do when increasing DP size.
These downpipes will be ready for production in the next week or two guys!
how do you get more manifold pressure when increasing the size of the dp? can you explain? thanks! i will most likely be running a vnt-15 on my m-TDI and need a DP soon, as it's nearing completion.
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Are you still making these?
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Dave,
How do I find you, the website is down and I want to buy stuff :D
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too small? what turbo's are you making them for?
If you go too small on your turbo charger selection like a vnt15 or 17 and than you go too big on the exhaust side of that small turbo you will actually INCREASE your exhaust manifold pressure instead of reducing it like you often do when increasing DP size.
These downpipes will be ready for production in the next week or two guys!
how do you get more manifold pressure when increasing the size of the dp? can you explain? thanks! i will most likely be running a vnt-15 on my m-TDI and need a DP soon, as it's nearing completion.
This only happens when the turbo charger is sized too small for the engine, like a lot of turbos used on diesel engines. The reason is that exhaust post turbine can expell quicker than it can exit the engine due to the small turbine, the downpipe can move more volume than what is capable of being pushed though the tiny turbine and the manifold pressure increases.
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numbnuts and yoopercharged, we are still making these yes and will be on the new website in the next couple of weeks. Best way to contact us right now is via phone, 604.630.6744, 7:30AM-5pm monday-friday, (usually there on saturdays too its just more hit and miss) If no one answers its because we have some machines running, just leave a message with your name, # and time zone so we can get back to you :D
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sent IM. I need a downpipe... Also, when is the site going to be up and running?
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I 2nd that.... Im in the market for one aswell ....
I saw one pic and im probubley going to order one next time I have the funds..... dont quit making them there too beautiful and there's meterial where mine has a huge hole in it.... :lol:
cheers on a dope fab,
MK1's keep on turnin.....
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Well just came across this thread: http://www.vwdiesel.net/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=8853 which answers my question...
:(
Any updates?
Are they being produced yet?
Thanks!
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I ordered one a couple weeks ago and am just waiting for it to be made and shipped to me. I am getting excited.
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TurboHans;
I think that post you quoted is an old one, and he is still going to make them. Try calling him with any of your questions.
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Site just says call for pricing, how much was yours Mexe?
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are the still making these , Lead time ?
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Just spoke with Dave yesterday...
He confirmed my worst fears.
He is out of the VW business entirely, and does not even have a car to do a mock up on.
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This is the most depressing thing I've dealt with all month. (including being in the drivers seat, before/during/after totaling an '09sportwagen)
If need be, I have a 79 diesel rabbit, that can be a "mock up" vehicle, or I can find something else to donate...
I need 3 manifolds/IC&piping/DP&exhaust kits, for my A1 diesels, and if passenger performance can't make 'em... who can :? :cry:
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This is the most depressing thing I've dealt with all month. (including being in the drivers seat, before/during/after totaling an '09sportwagen)
If need be, I have a 79 diesel rabbit, that can be a "mock up" vehicle, or I can find something else to donate...
I need 3 manifolds/IC&piping/DP&exhaust kits, for my A1 diesels, and if passenger performance can't make 'em... who can :? :cry:
Can you weld? Make your own DP.
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I don't trust me with a soldering iron... and you want me welding? shame on you... Seriously though, I don't have the tools, or the experience to trust myself with any welding equipment...
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I cant weld but am surrounded by people who can. How do you make a good mach up of the pipe? Do you just take the stock DP and have someone use that as a template to bend the 3"?
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it's best to have it made to your car so it will fit right and correct clearances
are noticed so it don't interfere with anything!
Duane
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Here's a good thread on the subject... basically you just need to buy a mandrel-bent J-tube in the diameter of your choice and you'll have all the twists and turns you'll need:
http://vwdiesel.net/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=14003&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0&sid=fb9ce665ce766686b12e0330a321e983
I've used the vendors mentioned in this thread to procure my own parts and they were all good.
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Here's a good thread on the subject... basically you just need to buy a mandrel-bent J-tube in the diameter of your choice and you'll have all the twists and turns you'll need:
http://vwdiesel.net/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=14003&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0&sid=fb9ce665ce766686b12e0330a321e983
I've used the vendors mentioned in this thread to procure my own parts and they were all good.
I know this is not a Q@A subforum but just to be clear, all you need is a mandrel-bent J-tube for all of the bends? Seems this option is much cheaper than buying one.
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Here's a good thread on the subject... basically you just need to buy a mandrel-bent J-tube in the diameter of your choice and you'll have all the twists and turns you'll need:
http://vwdiesel.net/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=14003&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0&sid=fb9ce665ce766686b12e0330a321e983
I've used the vendors mentioned in this thread to procure my own parts and they were all good.
I know this is not a Q@A subforum but just to be clear, all you need is a mandrel-bent J-tube for all of the bends? Seems this option is much cheaper than buying one.
Yuppers. By J-tube I mean the standard one with the integral 45 built in to it on one end.
Now, the bend will cost you... .and the flange will cost you... and the v-clamp will cost you.... and the flex tube will cost you... so it does add up. :wink:
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Columbia River Mandrel Bending (http://store.racing-solutions.org/index.html) over in Saint Helens, OR has kits for just about anything you want to make. They've been mention before on the forum here (http://vwdiesel.net/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=12966&start=45&postdays=0&postorder=asc&highlight=mandrel+exhaust) by libbybapa and they have some really nice kits to put your own system together with.
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Columbia River Mandrel Bending (http://store.racing-solutions.org/index.html) over in Saint Helens, OR has kits for just about anything you want to make. They've been mention before on the forum here (http://vwdiesel.net/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=12966&start=45&postdays=0&postorder=asc&highlight=mandrel+exhaust) by 53 willys and they have some really nice kits to put your own system together with.
fixed it for ya... :oops: :lol:
that's who I got all my tubing and flex pipe from...