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Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: mk1_brad on March 26, 2017, 06:05:16 pm
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I've done some research but this is the only thing in hung up on. The engine in having built is a 1.6td out of a 1983 Rabbit. Engine code is CY. So far I have .5mm larger KS pistons going to have rings sealed, All new bearings, larger oil pump, TT baffled oil pan ARP hardware etc. Obviously block will be bored. Future plans are Giles IP and injectors. 1.9 AAZ head. Turbo I have not decided on. Back to original question after doing all this it seems silly to use stock connecting rods. Can someone tell me size and brand to go with for the connecting rods? Pic of my engine and trans case for fun. (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170326/1a3e5a1f61b5720d7fd8572625307093.jpg)
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The stock rods hold power very well. Figure out what turbo and power levels you want to go to and then we could see if rods are needed
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The stock rods hold power very well. Figure out what turbo and power levels you want to go to and then we could see if rods are needed
Fair enough. However I want to overbuild simply because I want to do this once and not have to go back in and rebuild it.
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stock rods will handle more than 180hp for continual use...what are your goals
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Pauter.
Steve.
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(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170326/1a3e5a1f61b5720d7fd8572625307093.jpg)
If you already bored that block for new OS pistons then you might be in for some extra work. OS pistons move the wrist pin bore toward the piston crown. If you do not have the block head gasket surface milled by the same amount, then it is likely that the piston protrusion will be out of spec for even the thinnest head gasket. Because of this I measure the protrusion prior to pulling the old pistons or if the rods are being replaced, install the new rods on old pistons without rings into the block and measure protrusion prior to having it bored. Then I can measure the wrist pin to crown dimension on the old and new pistons, and do the math so that I can tell the machinist exactly how much to mill from the head gasket surface (at the same time that the block is being bored) so that piston protrusion with the new pistons will land where I want it. At this point, without having milled the head gasket surface, you will need to assemble the bottom end, measure piston protrusion, and then odds are good that you will need to disassemble the block, take it back to the machinist, have the head gasket surface milled, reassemble. Because of this, do the protrusion FIRST, before assembling anything else on the block.
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balancing and polishing the rods is cheap and adds strength, i think mine were 20 bucks a rod, so thats a good upgrade with out spending the money of new rods