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Engine Specific Info and Questions => TDI Engine -General Info => Topic started by: 8v-of-fury on December 18, 2010, 01:02:57 pm
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I have a few questions regarding the removal and cleaning process of an AHU intake manifold. I don't want to go super crazy with this (like taking off other things and cleaning them up too) because it is mid-swap.. and touching anything else and breaking it further delay's my swap time! lol
So for the basics, the manifold comes off and needs cleaning as it is quite constricted in the intake neck. Catlin just did his, but he has the luxury of unbolting his EGR (ALH motor) whereas I do not. I cannot use the torch method, so what do I do? I had a suggestion of soaking it in diesel overnight, but I am worried it may attack the same rubber seals the heat will...
What should I do to best clean this out ???
Thanks guys
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This is what I'm working with;
(http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm307/J_holubek/TDI/100_0483.jpg)
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pd 150 intake!
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So I'm sitting in my garage right now with my tdi on the engine stand.. I've got the intake off and the ports in the head are also really gummed up.. :( now this doesn't hugely concern me as it ran fine before I pulled it even with clogged intake. So doing the intae alone will really waken this beast up I'm sure.
I don't want to risk any of that crap falling in to the cylinders so ill leave it as is..
still need to know the best way to clean this manifold if heat won't work
Thanks guys!!
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Torch and compressed air. I saw a youtube video of it and that is how I would do it needed.
If you could scrape or sand/abrade the stuff and use a shop vac to pull anything out that falls you could do the head too.
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Yes Lucas, but with the mk3 AHU TDI intake;
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4102/4824460680_dfb22481d8.jpg)
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4139/4824460684_de068afdc3.jpg)
See that port on the back side of the intake? Its got a the rubber EGR valve inside of it.. and the torch method will not act well with it :( Unlike the ALH and PD manifolds, the egr is integral to the AHU intake manifolds.
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I've got it soaking in some organic cleaner (good for rubber seals and especially environment lol)
Also I don't see why deleting the EGR would have any CEL effect.. There isn't any sensors or anything to alert the computer that the EGR has been removed..
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The ECU measures engine airflow via the MAF, and when it doesn't see the additional airflow it expects with an open EGR it says "aha!!!!!!!!"
That's why you can't trick an ECU delete with a resistor or some such...the ECU is looking for a dynamic condition.
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I SEE! Interesting.. Well as you said Vince, there is no point deleting it anyhow.. so a clean in some degreaser will do
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Yuppers... I think you'll find that soaking in degreaser works well. You will probably have to poke it with a wooden stick a bit... some folks rig up a chunk of randomly bent coathanger on the power drill and run it around like a roto-rooter.
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rget to warm up the cleaner.. and dude.. gotta do head ports.. not doing them is like well not cleaning anything..
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Paint stripper (like nitromoors) and a pressure washer will do the trick in 10 mins!
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If I do the head ports I gotta pull the cam.. and then i gotta get a new VC gasket, and then i gotta do other s***. I've never pulled a CAMshaft
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IF you can do the timing belt, you can pull the cam.. The belt would be the most involved part of the process.. You could also just do one cylinder at a time, spin 'er over till the valve is closed..
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FRIGG.. How do you go about keeping time on the TDI's? Timing belt and tensioner are verified new (~3000kms on them) from a shop work-order under the seat of the parts car lol.
I like your other idea there Brett, spin the engine around till each valve is shut.. makes super sense. How do i make sure i get all the stuff outta the intake port? What do you suggest i use to clean that? obviously no solvent.. a small wire wheel on one of those cool bendy drill/screw driver attachments? lol
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Nothing wrong with using a solvent.. Get the valve closed.. Good ole carb cleaner in an aerosol can should be the ticket to get things loosening.. Since you have the luxury of having the engine out on a stand, tip the engine in such that anything you spray in the port will run out.. Then break out the wire wheel, or weapon of choice.. When you're done break out the compressed air and blow gun.. Repeat as necessary... Maybe a final shot with the carb cleaner to rinse it out, blow it again, bada bing bada boom...
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Bottle cleaner brush on the end of a 18V drill made my intake SHINE inside! That's after I had all the big stuff removed
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Ok so here is what I did. 24hr soak with some heavy duty cleaning agent, drain, 24hr soak with same agent, drain, lotta gooo came out. One more 24hr soak and screwdriver proding. I am off to the carwash to use a industrial power washer as we speak. And after that I'll prob do another soak and go in to it with a small wire wheel on a movaeble extension. I think it will be awwesome
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Never had to do anything after the heated pressure wash. It came out shining! I will get some pictures.
Also I took Maxfax's advice on turning the cam to block off the ports on 2-3-4 cyl and started going at it in there. Got most of the big stuff out, and as i went to grab my compressor it seems the plastic line that came with it got kinked and has a leak now :( however I do not think compressed air will be enough to get this stuff outta the port now.. its pretty gummy stuff.
any other ideas?
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Flush it with carb cleaner.. Or, have you ever seen seen one of the air sprayers? You use your compressed air and it has a tube to siphon your solvent of choice and spray it too.. They work nice for degreasing engines and parts.. Gasoline works great with these.. ;D
Here's an example of one..
http://shopping.yahoo.com/22593643-amflo-amf220td-blow-gun-siphon-sprayer-with-8ft-plast-tubing-superceded-220td/;_ylt=AjKM6OV_qfuyW3zWhcz6mnwbFt0A (http://shopping.yahoo.com/22593643-amflo-amf220td-blow-gun-siphon-sprayer-with-8ft-plast-tubing-superceded-220td/;_ylt=AjKM6OV_qfuyW3zWhcz6mnwbFt0A)
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I have one today that need cleaning. '01 New Beattle ALH.
I've done these many times before. I dig out the hard stuff as much as possable and then soak over night in solvent tank. Then finnish it out with carb/choke cleaner.
Heres some of todays before pics.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/IMG00410-20101229-1527.jpg).
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/IMG00411-20101229-1527.jpg).
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/IMG00412-20101229-1527.jpg).
I'll keep this updated tomarrow.
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damn that intake is super constricted eh!
I mean for the ports in my head, I have scraped and there is a lot sitting right on the valve head.. I am concerned i will not be able to get it all out. and a solvent i do not wish to put in the head for fear of it seeping past the valve seats.. lol
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take the cam out and scrape the crap on/around the top of the valve, then blow it out of the port with compressed air.
or just turn the engine over until the valve is closed on the port your working on..
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does pose a problem when your air compressor wont put out enough pressure to blow that crap out. :(
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Yes, the problem is not the stuff getting in to the cylinder.. Its the stuff not getting out of the port. I really don't want to pull the cam.. I guess ill just have to get something to snake in there and grab it all out..
Fun experience.
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squirt some carb cleaner in there, and use a bottle brush and it should loosen all that crap right up. a decent, small sized bottle brush should get right down to the back side of the valve head..
even if you do have to take the cam out, dont worry, just remember you own a VW. be glad it is not a v-tec equipped honda..
its very simple (as im sure you already know) to pull a vw cam..
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Heres what I got after just scraping and a over night soak in the solvent tank (basicly diesel).
Plus about half a can of Berrymens carb/choke cleaner.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/IMG00414-20101230-1002.jpg).
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/IMG00413-20101230-1001.jpg).
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/IMG00415-20101230-1002.jpg).
The head ports were nasty and had hard caked on crud. Pulling the cam is a lot further than I want'ed to go, and rolling the engine over and duct taping the open ports is much faster.
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I used a long steel pic and some small headed screw drivers to get at it. Then blowing it out with compressed air.
When all was done with the rest of the work I did. One the first start, it blew out alot of black soot. I had checked the VNT before to make sure it move freely, but its been driven like a "Grandma" for all 130K miles. I'm supprised.
It now runs with power and doesn't smoke anymore.
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I use solvent, a parts washer, a drill, and half of an old ebrake cable. Take the end of the cable and slightly unwind it, put it on the drill and go to town!
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Thats a great idea! I'll try that next time.