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Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: 85bertajetta on June 27, 2021, 03:33:38 am
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i have an 85 jetta and was having some fuel supply issues to the ip. bought a lift pump before really diagnosing (i know pretty stupid but the engine was also getting a new cam as the last owner broke it in 3 pieces trying to bump start it) turns out there was a restriction in the rear water separator i got a carter p90047 which is suppose to work on this application but very little specs i can find on it . dont know if i can use this for possibly easier starting. if i need a regulator or run it as is
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Get rid of the water separator.
A dash-mounted fuel pressure gauge will let you know if there is a fuel line restriction.
Or how high the fuel pressure is if you have a helper pump.
I think a helper pump is only needed at high RPM, high loads.
Cummins uses a helper pump with all their bosch rotaries.
Not sure how high the pressure is.
Since the pressure shows up behind the mainshaft seal it can push the seal lips tight against the shaft
if it's too high,.. maybe under 5psi would be safe..
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According to Giles from PDI the IP should be able to lift fuel from a jerry can sitting on the floor next to the engine. If it doesn't, providing the fuel supply line is good, the vane lift pump in the IP is malfunctioning or broken.
I've researched that a bit because of my fueling issues. People have recommended soaking the vane pump with various solvents to get the potentially stuck vanes to come loose. Mine lifted OK so I never went there.
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According to Giles from PDI the IP should be able to lift fuel from a jerry can sitting on the floor next to the engine. If it doesn't, providing the fuel supply line is good, the vane lift pump in the IP is malfunctioning or broken.
I've researched that a bit because of my fueling issues. People have recommended soaking the vane pump with various solvents to get the potentially stuck vanes to come loose. Mine lifted OK so I never went there.
got it all back together runs off a jerry can fine sucks the fuel back pretty good but now having starting issues :-\ seems alittle low on compression or the starter on it isnt quite turning it over quick enough
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Compression check time then. Do you have the proper tools for it?
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Compression check time then. Do you have the proper tools for it?
Unfortunately I don't. It fires just doesn't want to catch and start, have got it running twice and let run for about 2 hours and drove it. The car drives fine has lots of power, idles fine, it's just the start-up. I'm going to re-check the timing again and see if that's the issue. It won't even start on ether. The car does have 450k kms on the dash so I'm sure it might need sleeves and rings or oversized pistons.
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Sounds like it is time for the next sized pistons in the block.
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Put a socket on the end of the crank and turn the engine over by hand.
Sounds like the fuel problem was just a restriction caused by,..
probably the check valve in front of the water separator.
The vane pump is good. It pulls fuel good now.
How long does it sit before it won't start?
Do you have clear fuel lines?
Fuel might be syphening back toward the tank when it's shut off.
I haven't heard glow plugs mentioned yet.
Have you checked those?
Put a voltmeter on the first one.
See if you are getting voltage and how much.
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Got it running on the jerry can right now with no fuel filters atm so no fuel restrictions before the pump after I have it running and shut it off it has issues starting immediately glow plugs are all fine I have pulled them all out and checked and also checked for voltage at all of them so that’s all good. I know pistons is probably in this cars future but it’s pretty rough and I wasn’t really wanting to put that much into it I am happy that the ip is good
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Don’t think it’s losing prime when I go to start it it seems like 1 cylinder fires and lots of white and puffs of black smoke and it smokes right away
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What voltage do you have at the glow plugs when they are firing?
Did you try to turn it by hand?
and clear fuel lines?
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You should be able to feel a difference between cylinders when turning it over by hand. As you get close to TDC on each cylinder it will be pushing back at you as you wrench it over. Those with low compression will not push back as hard if at all. Get it lined up on TDC with the #1 cylinder and walk it thru the firing order back to #1. Let us know what your hand tells ya.
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there is 11.6 volts at glow plugs 1-4 so no voltage issues unless they are only suppose to run on 6 and when I turn it over by hand I can feel some compression but feels no different then my sun fire's 2.2 so guessing its low on compression. guess ill be on the hunt for some pistons guess its time to pull the head off and see how much the ridge is
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It's good to see the glow plugs drop the voltage.
If it was 12volts I would be concerned they weren't pulling enough amps.
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Are you sure the injection pump is not timed 180 degrees out? FYI a 2000 TDI automatic starter works wonders as a replacement starter on these motors
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Are you sure the injection pump is not timed 180 degrees out? FYI a 2000 TDI automatic starter works wonders as a replacement starter on these motors
I redid the timing after I put the cam in I had the lock pin in the ip so I'm guessing I got it right like I said I have got it running and once started it runs good its just the getting started part and thanks for the starter tip will definitely look into it.
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is it possible that my ip doesn't have enough residual pressure or that the stop solenoid is leaking past ? the car has just under 500k km on it I'm sure its pretty worn out I have no idea the maintenance history I know its really sloppy but has any one ridge reamed the cylinders and just put oversized rings sucks to say but I don't really want to drop a whole lot into this car as I don't know the condition the rest of the car is in (don't know if its a lemon yet)
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If the cylinders are so worn that you have to ream a ridge off the top of the cylinders
the piston slots are probably too wide and out of spec.
Sloppy rings is what usually makes me get new pistons.
But new rings on a cylinder that's worn that bad is not going to last long.
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well I ordered some .40 over pistons today so I guess ill be pulling the motor and rebuilding it. hopefully I don't find much else wrong with it ::)
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Good.
It has begun.
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UPDATE
I have pulled the engine apart and its at the machine shop right now getting bored .40 over. here are some of my findings as I pulled it apart. on cyl 2 the second compression ring was broken and all of the other rings were vey worn and have no spring left to it. I had also fount that the bearings for the intermediate shaft were flaking apart. unfortunately it sent some metal threw the engine and now I'm replacing all the bearings. there was a lot of oil in the intake I'm hoping that's from the crank case vent and the blow by and not the turbo
I might be looking into a turbo upgrade soon