2.8TDI=158HP for the common-rail version, year 2003, code engine AUH, BCQ, but the older version 1996.... have 125HP code engine AGK.
Call a bosch shop and ask for the 0 460 424 138
Part number is: VE4/12F1900R693 (0 460 424 138) for a 2.8TDI VW pump.
2.8TDI=158HP for the common-rail version, year 2003, code engine AUH, BCQ, but the older version 1996.... have 125HP code engine AGK.
Call a bosch shop and ask for the 0 460 424 138
Part number is: VE4/12F1900R693 (0 460 424 138) for a 2.8TDI VW pump.
No problem with 17mm main shaft, the fragile part of an axis is the place where the came plate is drived, 17 or 20mm are identical at this point.
I built several 17mm M-TDI pump without problem, one of them have over 100000KM on it, with 17mm I guess that the bushing will use more quickly.
Not to take only the head in consideration, a 14mm head with IDI came plate or 10mm with TDI came plate have exactly the same potential, thus one or other cause the same stress on the shaft.
Quote from: "Tintin"No problem with 17mm main shaft, the fragile part of an axis is the place where the came plate is drived, 17 or 20mm are identical at this point.
I built several 17mm M-TDI pump without problem, one of them have over 100000KM on it, with 17mm I guess that the bushing will use more quickly.
Not to take only the head in consideration, a 14mm head with IDI came plate or 10mm with TDI came plate have exactly the same potential, thus one or other cause the same stress on the shaft.
thats good news because for my mTDI pump i want a 11mm head :wink: and i'm 99% sure its 17mm.
Sorry to ask what is probably a really REALLY obvious question - but what are the actual advantages in converting from electronic control to mechanical? Is it purely for ease of adjustment or is there some other reason?
Soon, I will be offering brand-new pumps of this type. I have established a connection and source for these. I am quite sure from my testing so far that these will provide the power level anyone could ever desire. Pricing is not set yet, but with current exchange rates we will probably be in the $1800~2000 range for these.
But, in the compression ratio example, the "combustion chamber" would be the entire volume of fuel being compressed, including the space in the distribution head, the entire injection line and the fuel space in the injector. I imagine the difference in shim thickness from thinnest to thickest would be 1/10,000th of that space. Also, in that example, changing the shim thickness in the injectors would have the same effect.
I don't dispute your experience, I'm just trying to understand why.
Andrew
I wanted to add a couple more bits of useful information for mTDI pump building. One is that the un-caged governor spring for pump #0460424138 can be used with a lengthened accelerator lever to give 4,500 rpms.
The other is that the pump mainshaft from an eTDI can have the two cutouts machined for the rubber cushions and can be used to achieve the proper pulley offset if one is using a "short snout" pump. This is especially convenient if one is already gutting an eTDI pump for the dynamic timing bits.
Andrew
I explain here http://vwdiesel.net/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=17647&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=15
how to make a mTdi pump that works REALLY well.
I might have time to write an english version before summer or maybe not... but if someone wants to do it... go there is no copyrights!!
This is what I've been looking for. 8)
EDIT:
For those who wanted to see what the cabarit looks like here are some pics.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v319/bareil76/gabarit002.jpg)
IT is a non-modified lever
the DI camplate makes a lot of vibration in the whole pump at low RPM... this is what is going to get the retaining circlip out! This is also the reason why they added a roller from td to tdi. I don't have a 12mm head (10mm only) and it broke twice after about 1000km to 2000km.
Don't go too far without the tools to repair it in case it breaks.
Do you have fuel leaking out? Is it always wet in this area?
the DI camplate makes a lot of vibration in the whole pump at low RPM... this is what is going to get the retaining circlip out! This is also the reason why they added a roller from td to tdi. I don't have a 12mm head (10mm only) and it broke twice after about 1000km to 2000km.
Don't go too far without the tools to repair it in case it breaks.
Do you have fuel leaking out? Is it always wet in this area?
The lda lever was rubbing against the top of the control lever so I trimmed about 3mm off the bottom of the lda lever
hahaha!! It is really hard to drill!
This is some of the hardest steel I have ever drilled. I found that a cobalt drill bit worked the best.
I did not modify the throttle lever lengthIf you can still reach maximum movement and have a good idle, then it's all good. If you ever feel the fuel is not sensitive enough or you can't have a low enough idle, then make this lever a little bit longer.
How do you adjust this? I put my IDI ump together with a TDI 10mm head/plunger and i have a lot of clater at part throttle. i backed the gov shaft out 1.5 turns and its better but i wanna know how to adjust it
Hi, where I live theres several vans and cars running factory m-tdi setup, Ive stripped a few and the di camplate seems very similar to the vw, can I use the gov and principle levers from one of these pumps instead of modding my own? They seem to be pre modified although I havent made a gabarit to check the principle lever travel heres a pic of the governor levers. All the factory m-tdi governor levers I've seen dont seem to use an intermediate spring in the assembly?
(http://i670.photobucket.com/albums/vv66/del635/dturbo%20pump/P2150002.jpg)[/img]
I've had the car running with an afn di camplate in the pump but the principle lever travel is to short
Hello,
As i understand, the base pump for this undertaking is a AAZ unit + 1z head, right? Would it be possible to use a 1.6 td from a jx engine, as this leaves more space to the engine cover in a vanagon. I got a syncro, so i could put in a aaz pump, but they are hard to source in germany, and there's a lot of jx pumps in my workshop. What is the problem with 1.6 pumps + 1z head so everybody uses the aaz pump?
Holger
I have installed a tdi ECU on the cranksensor and #3 injector and made some experiments with vagcom.
The tdi is installed in a dodge dakota m-tdi with 12mm head and .230 injectors.
The injection quantity returned by the vagcom was way out, but the timing was coming out really good.
At 0.96mm the timing reads 3.5deg a idle.
We put the timing at 6deg at idle (like a tdi-e with 5deg more timing in adaptation channel) and made some runs. Timing decreases between idle and 2000RPM at 90km/h, (from 6 to 3) which could be a little less timing than a tdi-e. We tried advancing timing at idle to 11deg, we had 8-9 deg at 2000RPM, but this was way to much as the engine would go to higher RPM with much difficulty.
We didn't made a log of the timing from 1500RPM to 4000RPM at different load, but we might next time.
We were able to see that timing was decreasing between 1/4load and 3/4load and increasing very fast at the end. (we could even feel the pickup accelerating with timing). So we screwed in the governor axis half a turn and then the timing was increasing gradually up to full load.
At 90km/h and 2000RPM the timing was around 5deg. On a tdi-e, timing is around 0deg at the RPM and load.
At full load, timing was between 11 and 12deg at 2200tr. On a tdi-e timing is around 8 deg at this RPM and load.
Overall, the pump act just like a tdi-e one with 5deg more timing in the adaption channel.
I think we would need some kind of stopper on the pump to make logs at differents load on the pump and at higher RPM (with 12mm head, we dont like to go over 3000RPM)
THe dakota is 4x4. EGT stays under 800F when cruising over 100km/h. Oil temp rarely rise up to 200F (usually 180F) and radiator fan pretty much never runs.
your ecm setup
So I removed the timing cover, drilled a hole thru the injection pump bracket so I could adjust the governer axis without removing the pump. I found this trick on the french side of the forums. I then turned the axis in one full turn and bingo! Instant pressure increase under load. Too much actually. I had to back it off quarter turn.
He means the adjustment of the shaft on which the governor gear/flyweights are mounted. It is normally inaccessible due to the pump bracket being in the way.So adjusting this increases internal pump pressure ie more advance? Or am I missing something from previous posts?
How do I know what Bosch VE Pump I have or am looking at buying?
The Bosch part number on the Bosch VEs pumps are fairly standard i.e. 0-460-4XX-XXX VE , what are important to note are the 6th and 7th digits of the Bosch Number. The 6th digit indicates the plunger size, 9 for 9mm, 0-10mm, 1-11mm, 2 for12mm. The 7th digit the is the application, 4 for 4cyl., 6 for 6cyl., etc. The specific manufacturers part number may also be on the pump and completly different, for example, the Cummins 4BT injection pump numbers do not indicate plunger size, everyone I have seen to date has been 12mm. Since the 4BT is a 4 Cylinder engine we can assume that part.
3917530 1986-90 VE Series Rotary, CPL 858, 105 HP
3908191 1986-90 VE Series Rotary, CPL 767, 105 HP
3917535 1986-90 VE Series Rotary, CPL 857, 120 HP
3906631 1986-90 VE Series Rotary, CPL 593, 105 HP
3919716 1991-93 VE Series Rotary, CPL 1260, 105 HP
3926831 1991-93 VE Series Rotary, CPL 986 & 1848, 120 HP
The only way to know for sure is with the Bosch part Number.
I don't know if this link has been posted before but it is very useful for crossing Bosch and vehicle manufacturers P/Ns and even finding #s for indevidual pump parts by application.
The pages take a minute or two to load.
enjoy.
http://www.vepump.cn/CZB.htm
All bosch pumped ford transit 2.5 di's, the 'smiley face' ones, my '95-'99, have an 11mm head, thats what I used. Common as muck and cheap as chips!
Ok...... so I am trying to get a grip with the Bosch or VAG part number for any VAG 11mm (auto trans) electric pump. From the first quote (which seems to make logical sense) it would appear that there would be an 0-460-414-XXX pump that would be fitted to a VW application, but I could not find one on the list in the 2nd quote.
Does anyone have any actual part numbers and application that I can use to trawl through E-bay / scrapyards / classifieds please? So far every "breaking TDI" I have emailed on ebay has come back with a 0-460-404-XXX, regardless of transmission.
Or could it be that there are some 11 mm pumps with 0-460-404-XXX part numbers????
All bosch pumped ford transit 2.5 di's, the 'smiley face' ones, my '95-'99, have an 11mm head, thats what I used. Common as muck and cheap as chips!
how to increase timing advance as rpms or load increaseyes my problem is this. I have gov with 2 springs and i think i must put 1 spring form maybe transit...
When you say "I have gov with 2 springs", are you talking about "Timing is from 1.9td dual spring?" I just want to make sure we are talking about the same thing. Also, is there another electronic solenoid on the side of your pump that looks the same as the stop solenoid?
Can anyone point me to information on a 5-cylinder Audi distributor pump (mIDI)?
Also, 1.9td regulator wont work with 11mm pump!!Tell me why?
That's what I'd do for a 5-cyl mTDI. I've never taken apart a 5 cyl pump, but I imagine that you'd also need to use the roller cage and rollers (are there 5 rollers?). That might cause some added complication as the electronic pumps don't have the cutout in the roller cage to accommodate the governor. Some machine work there would likely be in order.
Also, 1.9td regulator wont work with 11mm pump!!Tell me why?
Did the pressure in the pump is too low in low rpms?
I have 1.9td regulator and at cold engine i have wite smoke and i looks like pressure was to low. when engine was warm the smoke disappear.
I am using 1.9td regulator and advance pistons with stock shims with 11mm pump and am quite happy with it. I wish I hadn't deleted the cold start lever though.Also, 1.9td regulator wont work with 11mm pump!!Tell me why?
Did the pressure in the pump is too low in low rpms?
I have 1.9td regulator and at cold engine i have wite smoke and i looks like pressure was to low. when engine was warm the smoke disappear.
All VAG indirect engines have a 17mm main shaft. There are other alternatives with almost our pump housing and 20mm axle.
I tried once to enlarge a 17mm pump to 20mm main shaft, but there is a small opening to pressurize the seal on the axle and you get into this hole when creating the bigger hole.
Indeed, but not from VAG.
I've been working over 12 years on these VE / VP pumps and none of the VAG (VW / Audi / Seat / Skoda) IDI pumps had a 20mm axle. Yes, they have at Ford, PSA (Peugeot, Citroen) and most likely some others.
So please show me a pump that has got one, I would be very interested. ;)
Should I remove the AAZ 20 MM shaft reference?
I've seen many 17mm pump that the hub have slipped on the shaft when you try to push the RPM limit maxed with too much fueling, in this case, a 20mm shaft is required, but still it can slip at the extreme.
A jig and a keyway broach would make short work of adding a keyway to the hub.
I looked through this FAQ and did not see a specific list of the custom bits necessary to use the Land Rover 300TDI injection pump on an AHU and an ALH. I figured I'd add that list.
AHU:
The snout hole in the pump mounting bracket needs to be enlarged for the larger snout of the LR pump.
Because the LR pump does not have slotted mounting holes, you need to make some accommodation for timing adjustment. My preference is to use the ALH sprocket and hub. If you use the ALH sprocket and hub then you either need to use slightly sprocket to hub bolts that are slightly shorter than the stock ALH bolts or trim the pump case slightly where the timing pin goes. If you use the stock ALH sprocket to hub bolts (which are single-use) without clearancing the pump case they will hit. Another option is to file the pump mounting holes so they are slots. If you make the pump mounting holes into slots, you can use the AHU sprocket.
The plate that catches the 4th pump mounting bolt by the injection lines needs to be changed. I've used the 1.6 plate which requires 2 additional holes to be drilled for mounting to the distributor head.
The LR delivery valves are longer. The two options are to either swap the delivery valves for short ones or bend the metal lines to fit the LR delivery valves. I've used TDI delivery valves and 1.6 delivery valves and either work fine and will fit the stock ALH injection lines. I have also bent the metal fuel lines and have not had any issues after thousands of miles of use. The downside to swapping valves is the fact that you need to source the valves and/or take them from a working pump destroying its value. The downside to bending the lines is that if you ever have to replace a line you will need to bend that one as well.
ALH:
The LR pump snout is the correct diameter to fit the ALH pump mounting bracket. The ALH pump mounting holes are threaded to accept the m8 bolts that fit through from the sprocket side. The LR holes are not threaded and are too large to tap to the m8 size. I tapped them to m10 and got the correct length m10 bolts which just barely fit through the bracket.
The other necessary changes are the same as written in the AHU section. The delivery valve length issue and the plate for the 4th pump mounting bolt need to be addressed.
Oh and also worth mentioning, I had a chat with Göran Lindgren (Dieselmeken) about the Rover 300TDI pump that I'm using (0 460 414 099). He confirmed that it should have no trouble supporting 200+ HP with just the usual minor adjustments (fuel screw / LDA / governor). Also confirmed the advance system on that pump is adequate for higher RPM use.
Oh and also worth mentioning, I had a chat with Göran Lindgren (Dieselmeken) about the Rover 300TDI pump that I'm using (0 460 414 099). He confirmed that it should have no trouble supporting 200+ HP with just the usual minor adjustments (fuel screw / LDA / governor). Also confirmed the advance system on that pump is adequate for higher RPM use.
Thanks for the info. On a similar note I thought that I would mention the performance mods for the LR pump for high power applications. There are only three potential changes I would make to the internals of the pump for the extreme build.
Governor mod: The LR pump is governed to 4300 or so rpms in stock form. That means that it starts cutting fuel quite a few rpms before 4300. While I've been happy without doing the governor mod (I rarely push my TDIs to 4,000 or above) I can see how many high-performance builds would desire the easy power of higher rpms.
Camplate swap: The LR camplate is fairly mild. The total max fuel per stroke is determined by (plunger radius^2) x pi x camplate lift. Increasing the camplate lift is one of the ways to increase potential max fuel. The LR pump has higher fueling potential than the 10mm eTDI pumps even with the mildish camplate, but a swap to a 4BTA camplate would give a significant increase to the max fuel potential. Bear in mind that any modification that increasing the max fuel potential will shorten the injection event for smaller quantities of fuel making the engine more clattery and so, replacing the camplate with a higher lift one may not be desirable unless that added max fuel potential will be utilized.
Plunger swap: For the extreme build, a swap to a 12mm plunger/head assembly may be desired. 10mm plunger has an area of 78.5mm^2. 11mm plunger has an area of 95mm^2. 12mm plunger has an area of 113mm^2. As you can see there is a greater difference in fueling from a swap from 11mm to 12mm than there is from a swap from 10mm to 11mm. Bear in mind that in the same way that a higher lift camplate will shorten the injection event, so will a plunger diameter increase. You should also NOT increase the plunger size to 12mm without increasing the injector nozzles to be larger than stock.
Probably also worth mentioning... I removed the internal part of the 'whatever the hell it is' lever when I did my gov mod the other day. It didn't really seem to have a function and it's damn hard to get the pump back together with it in place. Doesn't seem to have caused any issues and I REALLY can't figure out what it's supposed to do after seeing how it went together internally.
It essentially made a veeeeerrrryyyy tiny difference in the ultimate maximum 'full fuel' position of the fuel control lever, but the way the linkage was set up it should never actually come in to play, at least on my pump, since the only time the lever would be in its 'doing something' position would be when the accelerator lever was at idle, which of course means the governor is already pushing the fuel control lever back meaning there's not really any way the fuel control lever could be touching its arm. Very weird.
That extra lever reduces the max fuel slightly, but only at idle... The only plausible explanation I've heard for it, I believe you came up with. It may reduce the initial puff of startup smoke. I do not believe that it will affect the normal operation at all.
I see all the gov mods being done going to the internals of the pump but is this really nessasery if you stiffen the springs internally one way or another are you not just moving the governed speed up the rpm band which makes the fuel pump cutting back the fuel also move up the rpm band? Example if it were set to 4300 rpms fuel starts cutting back at 3500 let's say for sake of argument now we do the gov mod internally and we now have a max rpm of 5000 and fuel doesn't cut back till 4200 rpms! Is this correct or am I missing something?
1.05mm is nearer the retarded limit than the midpoint. Midway between 0.90mm and 1.55mm is 1.225 mm.
Hi, where I live theres several vans and cars running factory m-tdi setup, Ive stripped a few and the di camplate seems very similar to the vw, can I use the gov and principle levers from one of these pumps instead of modding my own? They seem to be pre modified although I havent made a gabarit to check the principle lever travel heres a pic of the governor levers. All the factory m-tdi governor levers I've seen dont seem to use an intermediate spring in the assembly?
(http://i670.photobucket.com/albums/vv66/del635/dturbo%20pump/P2150002.jpg)[/img]
Quote from: dts67
vw m-tdis ? you got more info on this .
that governor lever on the left lookes like a transit di one
i have done my control lever in a difrant way , but serves the same movment to the control spool@snakemaster- No, not vws, so far rover 2.0d and transit I've stripped but seen others. The lever is from a rover but the transits looks the same.
@hey- I'm near sure it is, I'll check tomorrow. I'm trying to get a di camplate working in an idi engine (1.9 psa xud), I've read nearly all your 'english' posts and know roughly what to do, you mentioned setting the break point of the injectors to match the camplate, thats no problem but do I then need pre-injection and 2 spring injectors? I've had the car running with an afn di camplate in the pump but the principle lever travel is to short and the engine is LOUD with injectors @175 bar :lol:
I looked for all those pumps but I wasn't very lucky.
You can find Ford Transit injection pumps but they aren't cheap. They're used to replace the lucas EPIC pumps.
I don't know what cars the other pumps are from.
I think Austin-Rover.
If I'm not wrong somebody fit a pump from a car by that brand.It takes to add a spacer to fit on a VW engine.
Probably the pump was from a Maestro-Montego.
There are other Rover DI engines made later but pumps are L and not R, they are from Rover SDI.
I know that engines are by Perkins, I don't what are the differences.
Industrial engine by Perkins are called Prima, probably is the same engine of Maestro-Montego .
Perkins marine engine are sold by Volvo as Penta.
Does anybody know if there a suitable pump and its Bosch number?
Does anybody know the L pumps performance and setting?
Can it be a good idea to use one as a donor pump?
What parts are suitable both for a L and R pump?
I think the body isn't suitable because timing advance is on the opposite side.
Waht else? the camplate?
The rest is universal or not?
Thank you very much.
P.S. If you look for a Kia Carnival on U.K. ebay you must look for Kia Sedona.
That's why I never found one. Somewhere that car is called Sedona.
For those which have the possibility of it, there exists in Europe several pump ' ' specific DI' ' which is a direct swap, some witch the good alignment of pulley and rev over 4200rpm and this, in 10,11 and 12mm head plunger, ex: peugeot boxer 2.5TDI, fiat ducato 2.5 (some fiat use a TDI 1Z came plate with a 11mm head), Kia 2.9L DOHC, VW transporter 2.8 TDI, etc...... some of this pumps are not proper aligment pulley, there exist a different hub pulley for proper aligment, that can avoid machinage.
Mark Type Part number Applications Engine bosch VE 0460414029 VE R 228 Leyland Sherpa 200 46 kw Rover Maestro 2.0 D 46 kw Perkins Prima 65 Perkins Prima 65 bosch VE 0460414030 VE R 229 Rover M., Montego 2.0 TD 60 kw Perkins Prima 80 T bosch VE 0460414041 VE R 266 Perkins 500 37 kw 500 , 504 – 2 LR bosch VE 0460414053 VE R 290 Perkins PRIMA 4000 NA bosch VE 0460414092 VE R 275/2 Perkins Prima GR 500 29 kw Gemini TCI D.I. bosch VE 0460414093 VE R 462 Land Rover Defender 2.5TD 83 kw Perkins Prima 80 T |
i just wanted to add some pumps to the list of parts numbers worth searching for. most off them are euro cars though
0 460 424 138 vw LT 2.8 12mm
0 460 414 156 peugeot 2.5 tdi 11mm
0 460 424 164 Fiat Ducato 2.8 tdi 12mm
0 460 414 128 Fiat Ducato 2.5 tdi 11mm
0 460 414 193 Kia Carnival 2.9 tdi 11mm
0 460 414 191 Kia Carnival 2.9 tdi 11mm the one im curently using
0 460 414 099 Land Rover 300 tdi 11mm
0 460 414 098 Land Rover 200 tdi 11mm
0 460 414 054 Iveco Daily 2.5 DI 11mm
GL with the hunt
I looked through this FAQ and did not see a specific list of the custom bits necessary to use the Land Rover 300TDI injection pump on an AHU and an ALH. I figured I'd add that list.
AHU:
The snout hole in the pump mounting bracket needs to be enlarged for the larger snout of the LR pump.
Because the LR pump does not have slotted mounting holes, you need to make some accommodation for timing adjustment. My preference is to use the ALH sprocket and hub. If you use the ALH sprocket and hub then you either need to use slightly sprocket to hub bolts that are slightly shorter than the stock ALH bolts or trim the pump case slightly where the timing pin goes. If you use the stock ALH sprocket to hub bolts (which are single-use) without clearancing the pump case they will hit. Another option is to file the pump mounting holes so they are slots. If you make the pump mounting holes into slots, you can use the AHU sprocket.
The plate that catches the 4th pump mounting bolt by the injection lines needs to be changed. I've used the 1.6 plate which requires 2 additional holes to be drilled for mounting to the distributor head.
The LR delivery valves are longer. The two options are to either swap the delivery valves for short ones or bend the metal lines to fit the LR delivery valves. I've used TDI delivery valves and 1.6 delivery valves and either work fine and will fit the stock ALH injection lines. I have also bent the metal fuel lines and have not had any issues after thousands of miles of use. The downside to swapping valves is the fact that you need to source the valves and/or take them from a working pump destroying its value. The downside to bending the lines is that if you ever have to replace a line you will need to bend that one as well.
ALH:
The LR pump snout is the correct diameter to fit the ALH pump mounting bracket. The ALH pump mounting holes are threaded to accept the m8 bolts that fit through from the sprocket side. The LR holes are not threaded and are too large to tap to the m8 size. I tapped them to m10 and got the correct length m10 bolts which just barely fit through the bracket.
The other necessary changes are the same as written in the AHU section. The delivery valve length issue and the plate for the 4th pump mounting bolt need to be addressed.
i just wanted to add some pumps to the list of parts numbers worth searching for. most off them are euro cars though
0 460 424 138 vw LT 2.8 12mm
0 460 414 156 peugeot 2.5 tdi 11mm
0 460 424 164 Fiat Ducato 2.8 tdi 12mm
0 460 414 128 Fiat Ducato 2.5 tdi 11mm
0 460 414 193 Kia Carnival 2.9 tdi 11mm
0 460 414 191 Kia Carnival 2.9 tdi 11mm (the one im curently using)
0 460 414 099 Land Rover 300 tdi 11mm
0 460 414 098 Land Rover 200 tdi 11mm
0 460 414 054 Iveco Daily 2.5 DI 11mm
GL with the hunt
William Smith's at least come with the assurance that they came off of known running vehicles. These salvage yard pumps maybe just "rebuildable cores" if you're shipping from overseas
William smith has an ad in the classifieds.
I got my pump from him.
It needed a shaft seal but I think it will run fine once I get injectors that aren't pissers.
William smith has an ad in the classifieds.
I got my pump from him.
It needed a shaft seal but I think it will run fine once I get injectors that aren't pissers.
Thank you so much, going to look at this ALH on Saturday, hope to buy and start on my second engine for my sidekick:)
i just wanted to add some pumps to the list of parts numbers worth searching for. most off them are euro cars though
0 460 424 138 vw LT 2.8 12mm
0 460 414 156 peugeot 2.5 tdi 11mm
0 460 424 164 Fiat Ducato 2.8 tdi 12mm
0 460 414 128 Fiat Ducato 2.5 tdi 11mm
0 460 414 193 Kia Carnival 2.9 tdi 11mm
0 460 414 191 Kia Carnival 2.9 tdi 11mm the one im curently using
0 460 414 099 Land Rover 300 tdi 11mm
0 460 414 098 Land Rover 200 tdi 11mm
0 460 414 054 Iveco Daily 2.5 DI 11mm
GL with the hunt
I think I had seen your youtube chanel, but how many HP your pump 2.9tdi gives you ?
btw it's maybe 10 years ago... something that I have never seen since. a mk3 1.9D with a Lucas pump on it. and it had a pump mount with the 68mm hole in it. so if any of you has issues with centering the hole, see if you can find one of those mounts. works fine for me
So this is a long shot, does anyone have the pictures user "HEY" originally posted? I think I have figured out his lever mod but I would love to see the actual diagram he drew.
So this is a long shot, does anyone have the pictures user "HEY" originally posted? I think I have figured out his lever mod but I would love to see the actual diagram he drew.
I dd save a lot of info off of this thread, but did not save anything regarding using an IDI 17mm shaft pump as a base to build a mechanical TDI pump, as I feel the 20mm shaft is critical for reliability if you are seeking more performance output, and there are several pumps such as the Land Rover 300 TDI which are still commonly available and will run pretty well completely stock on a Volkswagen mTDI.
Using a VW 9mm IDI pump to convert to TDI, or using a Cummins 4BT 12mm pump to convert to TDI, are both quite a lot of work. The 4BT pump will work better than the IDI, however.
A well built IDI pump converted to TDI use will be able to run fairly decent, but the most you could expect to get is not much above stock 90hp TDI performance.
So you are basically running an AAZ 1.9TD, but without the pre-chamber cups to worry about, and better cold starting.
btw it's maybe 10 years ago i was enjoying the lovely smells of my local scrap yard and i sniffed my way to something that i have never seen since. a mk3 1.9D with a Lucas pump on it. and it had a pump mount with the 68mm hole in it. so if any of you has issues with centering the hole, see if you can find one of those mounts. works fine for me
so i was bored the other day. and decided to update my previous list a bit. note i have still only actually used kia pumps on the mtdi engines i have made.
Update mostly a bunch of Sofim engine pumps that are new, and some corrections. With the Sofim engines i have just written the engine that they came on and the engine name
Kia Carnival 2.9 d/td/tdi 0 460 414 193, 0 460 414 191, 0 460 414 178, 0 460 414 207, still the one im using and is currently running in a mk2 Golf and 2 T3/T25/Vanagon campers. If i remember right the only mod i had to do was make the mounting hole bigger. and re drill some holes in the rear pump mount i used the tdi one. and i use the tdi pulley because the Kia one sticks out to far. and on two of the pumps there was also what i think is an immobilizer that i had to remove. and i have used 1.6td mounts for the throttle cable i just had to grind a notch off. mostly because i knew that the length of the cable would fit on my Golf
Iveco Fiat Peugeot Citroen Renault 8140.21/8144.21 2.5 TD? 0 460 414 026, 0 460 414 038, 0 460 414 060, 0 460 414 008,
Iveco Fiat Peugeot Citroen Renault 8140.23/43 2,8 TD/TDI 0 460 424 124, 0 460 424 125, 0 460 424 137, 0 460 424 136, 0 460 424 139, 0 460 424 141, 0 460 424 142, 0 460 424 148, 0 460 424 152, 0 460 424 157, 0 460 424 164,
Iveco Fiat Peugeot Citroen Renault 8140.27 2.5 TD 0 460 414 081, 0 460 414 054, these engines are according to wikipedia also direct injection
Iveco Fiat Peugeot Citroen Renault 8140.47 2.5 TDI 0 460 414 164, 0 460 414 105, 0 460 414 128, 0 460 414 116, 0 460 414 121, 0 460 414 116, 0 460 414 120, 0 460 414 128, 0 460 414 129,
Addition i got my hands on a 0460424177 Iveco Daily 2.8 tdi pump the other day, it has the small neck so it don't need the pump bracket enlarged so that might be the same on all off the sofim pumps. And i am running the kia pumps on AHU/AFN style engines,