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Engine Specific Info and Questions => TDI Engine -General Info => Topic started by: catlin_cava on October 25, 2010, 07:30:28 am
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So this morning because i'm a nice person, I waited for the guy that drives with me for 40 minutes before I left my place, So it was 7:40 when i left and I have a 75km drive and college starts at 8:30...I would be late so I booted it till i got there about 100mph the whole time...Not the car feels gutless and sluggish....
2001 VW JETTA TDI ALH with 423,000kms
pump was rebuilt 100,000kms ago
Timing and WP 10,000kms ago
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Does the ECU have a safe mode, possibly from a bad coolant temp sensor or any other sensor?
Do you have a boost gauge?
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She still pulls hard in first and chirped in second, I did a 1 minute idle cooldown when I got to college, as far as I know all the. Sensors are good. No extra hauges
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hmm, interesting.. so where is it loosing power then??
if it pulls hard through first and has the torque to chirp second.. why wouldn't it pull through all the other gears?
I haven't a clue lol
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What about bad fuel? dirty filter? Clogged tank pickup? Or just the switch to winter Diesel maybe??
If you have a fuel restriction you won't notice it until you need real power (ie. 5th gear up a hill)
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Scan 'er for codes, son... most of the time the ECU has some clues. ;)
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I know that my MK4 TDI will go into limp mode if raced/reved to high if coolant temps are not up to a safe level. It throws on the check eng. light.
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I think we have the same problem on our 03 TDi wagon, no guts after 3200 rpm, smells propane like, my guess is c/c, especially after 388k km
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Try running a good injector cleaner through the fuel tank or better yet, through the pump directly.
When were the injectors rebuilt? How about the intake manifold, is it clean or choked up. Also check the range of movement on the VNT linkage.
Do you have Vag Com to check your MAF readings?
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13,000km Bump,
Car now Goes into LIMP MODE after extended periods at 85mph...4 hours at 85mph or 3000RPM the car goes into limp. I noticed it yesterday when I hit the first long hill in a Beautiful place in NS Called Cobiquid Pass(ALL HILLS FOR 70KMS) I felt the car having a hard time so I floored it(I was on cruise) and it had no power and lost alot goingup the hill. I manage to make it off the road and shut downa nd restated and it worked better for the rest of the trip.
on the way back i ran at 85MPH(140KPH) for 1.5 hours and she went into limp again, I shut down and restarted and it worked for the other 2 hours just fine at 120KPH.
Everytime i run the car hard the car gets gutless
Intake Manifold is Clean, New Airfilter, New Fuel Filter.....
I'm guess the MAF is Pooched but I know that it alone wont throw the car into limp mode, and All my Vacuum lines are connected and not damaged and all intake lines are connected firmly.....Please Help :'(
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Scan 'er for codes, son... most of the time the ECU has some clues. ;)
Limp mode has hundreds of causes... you're gonna need the codes or you're just gonna end up throwing parts at it. ;)
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I'm gonna vote for coked vanes.
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I just ordered a Vag Com Cable off Ebay, and my buddy has the software...Ebay + Booze = BAD ;D
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A MAF will make it feel like LimpMode. But its weird how after a long drive then has lack of power.
Can you reach down a feel for movement at the VNT. Better yet, start it and dissconnect the vac. line from the solinoid and watch it move.
Vag Com will really help in diagnosising this issue. Look at measuring blocks, group number 1, and the last channel will be MAF readings.
Drive it and have your friend check them.
I feel these TDIs are dumb as far as runabillity goes. They don't care if theres a problem they just run. You have to know what your looking at.
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I'm guess my sister had the same issue before,hers was the MAF. But for me the first time it happened I had floored it and there was a brief second then it felt like the car hit a wall, and the second time it did it was when I came off cruise... But when I first bough the car it did that once, I pulled out to pass someone(day 2 of owning) and it loss all power, I chaned the airfilter and it didn't do it again.
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You will have to wait to see what codes come up, but one possibility is the VNT is seizing up when you are pushing hard on the throttle, ECU sees an issue-goes into limp mode. But another possibility is a torn intake hose somewhere. I realize it's not the configuration but just had my pals AHU do the same thing without a check light coming on . One of the hoses between the IC and intake had torn, i guess no code set because it was one that was after the MAP sensor. When i had the same thing happen to me a few years ago, a hose had torn but it was the one just after the turbo- and before the MAP and i had a code
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im guessing you got a vac. leak but who knows none of us are with your car so all we can do is guess. get the codes read if you dont have vagcom take it to advance or auto zone get them to write the code down and look it up on google
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I ordered a Vag Com Cable last night, and I have software 709.1 on the computer. and I have no Vac leaks, Ive checked all the vac lines a few weeks ago and it only happens on hard runs....I spoke with Giles and we thinks my MAF is pooched
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I had the exact same problem. I tried everything, from replacing the MAF and vac lines, and so on. Turns out the vanes in the turbo were dirty. Got it rebuilt, haven't had any issues since.
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catlin maybe your VNT ingested some intake gunk from when you did the intake... and the vanes are stuck now?
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Where are the Vanes located and how can I check them? I need this fixed by March since operation. Kick Jeremy in the nuts is in motion lol
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pull turbo off engine.
pull the 5 little bolts out of the hot side holding in the center
pull the center out of your turbo, behind it staring you in the face, will be the vanes..
you may have to completely replace them tho. i never had good luck freeing mine up. maybe a torch would have worked better.
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Let's start this off with...I am a COMPLETE moron...now with that out of the way here's the problem.
A few weeks ago I cleaned my intake and you need to get underneath the turbo to get one of the tubes off. I noticed the Vacuum line going to the actulator was a bit rough and looked frayed...I though in my head that needs to be fixed but I didn't do it and kept at cleaning the intake...I was laying on the couch when the light bulb turned on!...
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if you have to pull the turbo apart, be very careful with those 5 little bolts, and be sure to throw some copper never seize on them before you thread them back in.
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PULL THE VACUUM LINE OFF OF THE SOLENOID AND WATCH THE MOVEMENT OF THE VNT LINKAGE.
Sorry for yelling, but you don't need to pull the turbo to check for clogging or restriction.
Get VAG com and check boost psi specified and actual. That will tell you if the VNT is functioning properly.
My two cents
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oh yea, forgot about that.. those pesky vacuum lines.
im so used to my vnt setup, no vac lines here.
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So I haven't gotten around to taking changing the VAC line, the car has been running good, but this morning she was a bit sluggish...I pulled out to pass a transport and it happened....LIMP MODE....CHECK ENGINE LIGHT..........Then engine quit!!!!.....Started it back up and holy *** shes working fast now, Pulls increadibly hard....I hooked it to the Vag Com since the CEL was still on and here is what I Got
Friday, 04 February 2011, 13:29:50.
VCDS-Lite Version: Release 1.1
Control Module Part Number: 038 906 012 CP
Component and/or Version: 1,9l R4 EDC G000SG 2839
Software Coding: 00002
Work Shop Code: WSC 00066
VCID: 60B32383F34D
1 Fault Found:
16618 - Boost Pressure Regulation: Limit Exceeded (Overboost Condition)
P0234 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
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There you go. The ecu sees too much boost- goes into failsafe [ or limp mode] so the motor doesn't get blown. now to figure out why it's got too much. It may be any of the things mentioned,did you ever get underneath to make sure the lever moves through it whole range [about an 1" it think ]. Once or if it's free use the output test on vag-com to get if the lever is being moved by the ecu and solenoid. could also still be a torn boot
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I'm Crawling underneath the car today and going to change the vacuum line going to the turbo, and going to check to see if everyhting goes thru its motions.
i get 2 different readings on boost on the VAG COM, one is 28PSI and the other is 21PSI of boost....and thats 3rd from 2000RPM TO Redline at WOT
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That's strange that your boost reading are in psi and not mBar . Maybe i never used my vag-com to check boost. I know in metric it's 1900-2100 mBar. Do the conversion maybe?
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That's strange that your boost reading are in psi and not mBar . Maybe i never used my vag-com to check boost. I know in metric it's 1900-2100 mBar. Do the conversion maybe?
Yea I converted it,
I was getting readings as high as 2500mBar
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The other thing to note (which you may be factoring in already?) is that the MAP, and hence VCDS, reports absolute air pressure rather than relative. So, when you're thinking in terms of "boost" you need to subtract local barometric pressure... something in the neighborhood of 14.5 psi, depending on altitude and local weather conditions.
IIRC the troubleshooting info in the Bentley does in all in absolute, just to avoid confusion.
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I might of messed up the calculations but the Problem is solved...N75 valve is cracked and the Vacuum line is busted
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It was the N75 Valve that was acting up, I replaced it and the Vacuum line going from the Turbo to it and put the VAG COM on it and took it for a spin, at 3000RPM in 3rd then going WOT the Boost stayed in within Spec :D
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enjoy the return of all that torque