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General Information => General => Topic started by: derrickd95 on March 18, 2016, 09:25:15 pm
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I just bought a 1991 eco diesel turbo jetta. 1.6 turbo with a 5 speed. Lets start with what I have done so far, so I drove it home 100 miles and the next morning the alt belt snapped. So I replaced it, everything was good. I drove to work and on the way home when idling it was shaking but I kind of expect that with a diesel. so I turn the heater on and the whole car started shaking violently like nothing i have ever experienced before, turn the heater off and it goes away. So the guy I bought it from stated that when you get on and off the accelerator the car pitches side to side which I noticed, he said it was the control arms that needed replacement and there are new ones in the trunk. So Im undecided between motor mounts or a bum injector, I can push up on the alternator with a jack handle and get a 1" to 2" movement if that helps. thank you in advance.
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It sounds to me like you are rocking the engine front to back when you push up on the Alternator. I would be looking at the front motor mount and the one back at the transmission. I would also look at the one under the transmission and on the other side in front of the timing belt cover. Might be time to try adjusting the transmission one or just buy all new and replace em all.
I also would try placing my foot on the accelerator and giving it a little bit of extra idle and try flipping the heater fan on high and see if that stops it for now. A little higher idle might get you out of the shakes until your new mounts arrive. And it is fairly cheap fix.
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yeah it seems like the shakes have went away on their own but the idle still get rougher with the heater on. I will start with the front motor mount and work my way around. I was hoping it wasn't an injector going bad. when I have more time I will check the injection pump timing and see where thats at. I also need to find a gauge so I can tell what my rpm's are.
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A gauge to tell you what the RPM's are????? You lost us. Gauge as in to measure timing? RPM's done with a Tach and unless you have one on the dash there are a few options but most are not normal clamp on type devices. It is a diesel, which means its special in more ways than one.
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yea, the so called gauge you speak of reads a mark you can make on crankshaft pulley, something like scotch brite can be 1 thing that will read to the timer, theres no spark so a common gas tach will leave you scratching your head, duh what do i do now?
there is a thread here somewhere about setting up your own crank tach set-up.
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i saw a tach adapter in the bently manual. I have the dial for reading the timing. I will swap out the two easier motor mounts first and report back with how everything went.
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when i did mine (mk2) i found i have to take down oil pan, and get a couple of blocks of wood, (2x4s), and jack on either side of motor, and the trans too. i found the front mount to be the most difficult to get out/in, and the trans has 2 nuts that are hard to get to, and you have to get good torque on them using something like a 13mm open-end. dont forget, with all mounting nuts/bolts, loose(not very,), shake motor 2-3 times, and get good torque on them then.
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Well I installed the rear passengers side mount today, vibration quieted down. Took it for a longer drive about a hour later and the whole thing started shaking like crazy and it seems to always start while there is a load on the engine...i.e. Turning the steering wheel or the heater on high. I get the front engine mount tomorrow and hopefully it clears up the shakes for good. I hate seeing the dash shake so bad I can't read the gauges. Yes it has power steering and ac
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try raising the idle rpm,
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you have a kind of difficult problem there, if its not motor mounts, or idle speed being low. it could be a bad battery, or a bad alt. check batt voltage, although a load test is more definitive. batt voltage should hold steady at about 12.5v or soo,. with motor idleing all accessories off, alt voltage should read Above 13.7v up to 14.3v for a really good alternator. it could be bad wiring/or grounds, or a bad circuit(s). check battery terminals, and the red wires and then the grounds. it may be you need new/more grounding. try run a ground from trans/or motor to body, i thought it smart to run a ground from the main trans ground to alt top, then a ground from alt top to body. check also the battery terminal ground to body, should be 2 -1/2sized wires(black)to body.
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maybe get under there and check condition of fuse box, &relay box, check for corrosion, or water damage
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Just cleaned up all the wiring, grounds and all and it starts noticeably better and no dash shaking vibration. I will keep everyone posted if something changes.
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if that worked, my suggestion of running a ground wire or two. the main one is the trans/motor ground(to body), run a new 1!, i ran one from the alt top to the meaty fuel filter mount stud(clean it up). the other to run can be from the trans ground to the alt top, that also helps to ground alt. i like to use new nuts/bolts, and things like new washers. use things like electronic cleaner, w/sandpaper, to clean stuff up^. oh and also a tap/or die can help too.
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Charged the batt, it was at 75% and drove it to work today and by the time I got to work the alternator light was faintly flickering. I tested the alt last night and it was exactly on the low end of the figures you gave me. So I'm thinking I'm due for a alternator. It was nice to drive before it started doing that again.
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the bad grounding can kill an alt & battery. i prefer to shell out de extra bucks for a bosch rebuilt alt.
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Yeah it has a Bosch now, so the batt was 12.5 and running it was 13.9. Can't find a battery ground cable locally that's stock so I'm making a heavy duty one
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no napa store near you? even advanced or auto zone should carry, them,. a 13.9 reading is pretty weak for a bosch alt, its possible to refresh it, but not that a refresh of a new voltregulator and a clean up will get it working better for longer,. my alt(s) right now i picked up are bosch alts, rebuilt by remey, they put out 14.3x volts, at full batt charge, (thats fresh of course).
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I will build some new grounds. The battery 12.5 at rest and 13.9 while running I think it's all the grounds. Even though I cleaned them it's still the old copper braided wire.
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new grounds, and/or battery straps, are cheap investments for reliability. adding new grounds, esp the motor ground (to body), also pay off well, i added new hot charging wire too. clean stuff up. you can also check your voltage drop when you finish cleaning stuff up, theres a link somewhere in faq.
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It seems to start after a longer drive and reaching operating temp
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still? its a non-a/c car rite?
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Sounds like you got a handyman special. You're gonna need a Bentley Manual.
While the engine is running poorly, you can slightly loosen each injector fitting in sequence, to see if there is one that makes no difference... at least you could narrow to one cylinder.
Possible you have a bad valve/lifter, or bad injector. Maybe as simple as a missing injector heatshield. More rare would be something funky in one port of the IP.
I'd suggest getting the Bentley manual, putting clear lines in and out of the IP, getting an older style fuel filter that has no plastic tee pre-warmer and get some vw diesel timing tools.
I concur that if you experience excessive torque-steer, the control arm bushings are bad... the loaded arms are cheap enough to R&R without pressing the bushings in.
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It ran absolutely fine in the morning after I charge the battery I think the drive going into my work which is about 30 miles out with the heater on the lights on and the fan working I think drain the battery down a little bit plus I didn't get the normal squeal I normally get from the alternator when the battery is fully charged and these things didn't start until the belt broke and I drove back from work. I'm really leaning towards alternator so I ordered a new alternator. I'm going to replace all the grounds with new cables
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I also have a Bentley manual the time engage dial and I also have four new injectors but there for 130 bar not 155 bar
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I forgot to mention it is a power steering with air-conditioning engine I have also replaced both front control arms
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Last night I ran a 14 gauge ground from the top bolt on the alternator straight to the negative post on the battery and I ran another wire to the body. It was at 13.9-13.6 volts. Full load with lights and heater on its at 13.5-13.6. Like I said it runs decent when cold but when it's warm after a extended drive it shakes and shakes violently when I turn the wheels. It goes away if I drive with the cold start on. Comes back when I push the cold start back in. Squeals everytime I start it for about 40 seconds and it didn't start doing this until after the alternator belt broke and I had to drive 50 miles with no alt
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Replaced the fuel filter. Bubbles in the lines during idle and get bigger when I rev. I cracked all the injectors and the all effected the engine Rpm's and made it run rough. So it lookalike in cutting some hoses down to redo connections and blow some compressed air down the lines
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Sounds like a good plan. Not uncommon to have vacuum building up in the supply line if it is restricted.
Sent from my XT1097 using Tapatalk
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Bubbles in the lines during idle and get bigger when I rev.
In feed or return line,try to fid IP with jar.
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Feed line, also belt for alt is too big come to find out so I know that's causing issues
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So I replaced the o ring on the fuel filter and bubbles went away and it didn't shake until it was warmed up. But the alternator idler pulley failed and came off the bolt and then I had to cut the belt to get it home. I will press in a new bearing and replace the belt and check the timing and see where I am at then. Just figuring would update the progress
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I forgot to mention it is a power steering with air-conditioning engine I have also replaced both front control arms
whooha, thats like all of it, add cruise control and are there any more accessories(maybe radio^)?, heheh, i have one, factory air, p/s, no cruise. p/s is a little pita.
why do you mention control arms? 1 question concerning control arms, the press-in rubber bushs, pressed in right? check manual for correct side to press in bushings.
thinking if hard idling is continuing grounding problems. the next thing to check are circuits (usually grounds). that can be a chore, and you have to know how to read ohms for grounding of each individual circuit. start with the vent/fan circuit. wheew im sweating just thinking how to tell you to do this,,gl.
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during these 'long drives' you have (severe?) shaking. take note, is it only the fan circuit? when it does start shaking turn everything off(accessories) and does it still shake? of course also you must check for air in fuel lines, but it may well be the fan circuit/ground, or such.
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Shakes before the fan kicks on, I cleaned up all the grounds, cleaned positive connections, changed motor mounts, blew out the fuel line, alt is charging at 13.9, changed out to a new alt idler pulley, checked timing, checked valves all within specs. Now it shakes only whe. Turning the steering wheel and gets progressively worse the farther I turn to lock. Pulling out the cold start valve is the only thing that takes away the shakes. I'm thinking of raising the idle and riding it until it dies. Fans kick on when it's over the center mark on the temp gauge. All belts are specific for the Eco diesel and are perfect matches
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a couple of things about this,, one thing make sure your belt isnt too tight, i run my belt loose, but on that pump i have going on 1 mil miles, and unless i get a good used pump, that pump just has to stay. i just get some squealing, it may wear the belt some, but with no loss of pump performance(at idle/lo speed). another when was the last time you changed out p/s fluid, in some cars it can be the original fluid. i like to use synth, or semi-snyth fluid. if you do decide to drain p/s system, make sure you prime pump when you get fresh fluid in it.
huh tho it seems you car gets it in it to shake at idle a lot. raising idle speed is harmless, i suppose, and easy. (do when warm).
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Could it be that you have some sort of restriction in the PS system? Thus the further you open the system to turn the wheels the more strain it puts on the engine? And the increased idle is just able to make up for that load? Pulling the Cold start might advance the pump just that little bit that prevents the SHAKES"?
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Thought of that and I drained the system and pulled vac on a gauge looking for a restriction and I pulled the lines and cleaned them out. Going to stay with electrical. With my fans on and the heater the alternator is only putting out 12.7 v.
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main drain is on the backside of the rack unit; to drain it all,,(you ll have to put her on stands),. and like i said when you add new fluid, turn pump pulley right, clockwise, a good few times, to prime, and dont let level drop when you start it up,,be right there and check that fluid level.
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Going to stay with electrical. With my fans on and the heater the alternator is only putting out 12.7 v.
id have to check but 12.7 is way to low for Just the fan, whats going to happen when you have lights, fan on, and maybe a few more accessories. like a/c unit to name one more,
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12.7 is with engine fan, heater and lights
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if you pulled p/s lines you may want to get new orings for lines,,1 word of advice, dont ever put in stop-leak, in any unit as it is.
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Well I was driving it home last night when it cut out on me on the highway. I got it restarted and got home and charged the battery cause it was dead. Won't idle at all with out the cold start on. I am through dumping money and time into it lol. I put it on Craigslist for $800. Thanks for all the help. I really wanted the car and the mpg but it doesn't look like it's in the cards on this one.
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sorry to hear that; no one can be sure if a new battery + alternator will solve problem, after so long of running current thru a bad ground(s) and more parts of the circuit get fried. soo no telling,