VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.
General Information => User's ride Wall => Topic started by: RabbitJockey on November 18, 2014, 09:10:09 pm
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Bought this car with about 80k on it, then drove it for 5 years, and put about 60k on it with lots of maintenance and minor upgrades, gti cluster modded for diesel, h&r springs with bilstein shocks, and a yellow dot pump. I stopped driving it about 2 years ago, then replaced a bad headgasket so i could sell it, but cracked the original 11mm 1.6 block, so i drove to canada with a really good friend and picked up 2 aaz's, one for swapping in to my rabbit.
so here is the car, i have clear corners on the front now and some 13" enkei 92's
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v306/Trev0rbr/DSCN0707.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Trev0rbr/media/DSCN0707.jpg.html)
here is a picture of it from before i actually bought it, still sitting at the garage/junkyard i got it from
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v306/Trev0rbr/FSCN0488.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Trev0rbr/media/FSCN0488.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v306/Trev0rbr/IMG_1557_zpsf645c7ec.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Trev0rbr/media/IMG_1557_zpsf645c7ec.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v306/Trev0rbr/IMG_1315_zpsd4273daf.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Trev0rbr/media/IMG_1315_zpsd4273daf.jpg.html)
REPRESENT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v306/Trev0rbr/IMG_1313_zps21f4e248.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Trev0rbr/media/IMG_1313_zps21f4e248.jpg.html)
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the trip to canada took place this time last year. I met a really cool guy named Aivars(homerj on here) and learned a few things about canada.
first, we got ready for the trip by drinking lots of alcohol the night before, and also eating cheap ***ty pizza, this was a very important step.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v306/Trev0rbr/IMG_1820_zpsd0b5dd12.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Trev0rbr/media/IMG_1820_zpsd0b5dd12.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v306/Trev0rbr/IMG_1819_zps20ff9bb3.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Trev0rbr/media/IMG_1819_zps20ff9bb3.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v306/Trev0rbr/IMG_1822_zps72945775.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Trev0rbr/media/IMG_1822_zps72945775.jpg.html)
The next day involved a lot of driving, and that's about it, but the whole weekend involved lots of learning
firstly, don't laugh when the canadian border officer greets you with "Bon jour" also, when he asks if you have more than 10,000 dollars cash in the vehicle, do not reply with "I wish" unless you want to hang out in the customs office for a bit
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v306/Trev0rbr/IMG_1828_zps7f0d7262.png) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Trev0rbr/media/IMG_1828_zps7f0d7262.png.html)
important rule tim hortons rules, stop there often
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v306/Trev0rbr/IMG_1881_zps90c3bbea.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Trev0rbr/media/IMG_1881_zps90c3bbea.jpg.html)
and there is a lot of valuable information in their bathrooms
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v306/Trev0rbr/IMG_1878_zps77b312a5.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Trev0rbr/media/IMG_1878_zps77b312a5.jpg.html)
in canada it is very easy for your weiner to slip to places you dont want it to be
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v306/Trev0rbr/IMG_1876_zps6cfde1af.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Trev0rbr/media/IMG_1876_zps6cfde1af.jpg.html)
tolls in canada, are not to be celebrated
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v306/Trev0rbr/IMG_1882_zpsff143673.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Trev0rbr/media/IMG_1882_zpsff143673.jpg.html)
canadian hats are the best hats, also if you are in canada you must eat some poutine, it is especially great on a cold day
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v306/Trev0rbr/IMG_1856_zps524d99b8.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Trev0rbr/media/IMG_1856_zps524d99b8.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v306/Trev0rbr/IMG_1849_zpsdc10aa19.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Trev0rbr/media/IMG_1849_zpsdc10aa19.jpg.html)
aivars is a cool guy
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v306/Trev0rbr/IMG_1854_zps38c57a9d.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Trev0rbr/media/IMG_1854_zps38c57a9d.jpg.html)
two aaz engines in the back of a passat station wagon...
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v306/Trev0rbr/IMG_1869_zps2718d382.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Trev0rbr/media/IMG_1869_zps2718d382.jpg.html)
leads to one saggin wagen
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v306/Trev0rbr/IMG_1880_zps0fed1c4a.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Trev0rbr/media/IMG_1880_zps0fed1c4a.jpg.html)
On the way back we were stopped by the US border officers, they were a bit more personable, even though they did search the passat.
at the border coming back in to the US
raise it!!!!!!!!!!!
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v306/Trev0rbr/IMG_1858_zps26798d3c.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Trev0rbr/media/IMG_1858_zps26798d3c.jpg.html)/
lower it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v306/Trev0rbr/IMG_1860_zps64f32485.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Trev0rbr/media/IMG_1860_zps64f32485.jpg.html)
and here is my brother after we finally unloaded the engines into his garage
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v306/Trev0rbr/IMG_1886_zps428ad3df.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Trev0rbr/media/IMG_1886_zps428ad3df.jpg.html)
now jump to a year later, and here is me after i got the 1.6 out of my rabbit
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v306/Trev0rbr/IMG_3557_zps3d105a6b.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Trev0rbr/media/IMG_3557_zps3d105a6b.jpg.html)
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You and Andy could be twinning
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so here is the old engine and new engine together
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v306/Trev0rbr/IMG_3559_zpsf6c48cac.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Trev0rbr/media/IMG_3559_zpsf6c48cac.jpg.html)
AAz swap in to a mk1 is pretty straight forward I want to detail a few things i did to make this swap a little bit simpler
I am going to be running all of the rabbit accessories, so that i can retain the factory air conditioning, so i had to cut of part of the aaz injection pump bracket so that the alternator can swing up into place proper, i forgot to take a before picture, but it is pretty obvious where i cut it
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v306/Trev0rbr/1B7958B4-075B-4E40-ABDD-A93F097E0029_zpszub80y7g.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Trev0rbr/media/1B7958B4-075B-4E40-ABDD-A93F097E0029_zpszub80y7g.jpg.html)
here you can see how i just followed an edge that was already on the timing belt cover backing plate, and cut out the area where the motor mount goes with a set of red tin snips. I also cut down the factory 1.6d mount to fit, pretty simple just cut the injection pump part off of it close to the 2 bolts, i had to trim a little off the top as well.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v306/Trev0rbr/C24AFC0D-8190-44F7-9EEC-C3AAD80388B0_zpswqlrigr9.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Trev0rbr/media/C24AFC0D-8190-44F7-9EEC-C3AAD80388B0_zpswqlrigr9.jpg.html)
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Thus thread wins several dozen epic points.
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Here was one issue i ran into, one of the glow plugs had been cross threaded into the hole, and then tightened down very hard, plus since it was cross threaded, the glow plug never sealed to its seat at the bottom of the hole, so there was a compression leak and tons of carbon build up on the threads. Luckily i was able to borrow the correct bottom tap (m12x1.25) and was able to clean up the threads, it was very scary because i could have easily ruined the head at that point but with some patients, a steady hand, and triple checking all the angles i was able to get into the original threads with the tap and everything turned out just as great as could be for such a situation
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v306/Trev0rbr/CDDA5C21-BA1D-4FA5-B02B-DC0295719BC5_zpsx2rcw7oi.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Trev0rbr/media/CDDA5C21-BA1D-4FA5-B02B-DC0295719BC5_zpsx2rcw7oi.jpg.html)
and here is the other: I started drilling and tapping the exhaust manifold for my egt gauge, when i noticed the #2 runner had a nice hole rusted in it. I had sourced another exhaust manifold, but i decided to use a turbo and manifold that i had been saving for another project i have.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v306/Trev0rbr/3D2D4B99-0877-44D4-BA69-526F519ED2A8_zpszfm1cycx.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Trev0rbr/media/3D2D4B99-0877-44D4-BA69-526F519ED2A8_zpszfm1cycx.jpg.html)
this is the turbo and manifold i will be using, it's a rebuilt 50 trim t3 compressor on a stock vw exhaust side
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v306/Trev0rbr/C827E091-C3F4-4F37-BCA9-603D33F8FB31-2099-000001C73BDAF7E2_zps78ddd4cc.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Trev0rbr/media/C827E091-C3F4-4F37-BCA9-603D33F8FB31-2099-000001C73BDAF7E2_zps78ddd4cc.jpg.html)
this is the stock vw 35 trim compressor for comparison
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v306/Trev0rbr/513E897C-F978-4AF8-83F6-7634A9A47BAC-2099-000001C731254260_zpsf04a439c.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Trev0rbr/media/513E897C-F978-4AF8-83F6-7634A9A47BAC-2099-000001C731254260_zpsf04a439c.jpg.html)
and a picture of my instrument cluster if that excites anyone..
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v306/Trev0rbr/24AB1A62-3C72-427B-B871-B787E1CDEE54-8536-000008B7169910C1_zps9c8958bd.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Trev0rbr/media/24AB1A62-3C72-427B-B871-B787E1CDEE54-8536-000008B7169910C1_zps9c8958bd.jpg.html)
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If this car has an AAZ in it, PLEASE upgrade that cheesy 1.6 NA exhaust. My AAZ developed NO power at all till I got a full 2.25" system on it.
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If this car has an AAZ in it, PLEASE upgrade that cheesy 1.6 NA exhaust. My AAZ developed NO power at all till I got a full 2.25" system on it.
i wouldn't even think of running that exhaust ;^P
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Great writeup. I just finished a similar journey to Canada to rebuild an aaz. What a difference over the stock NA!
What did you do for an oil feed line? I'm looking to replace the stock line with braided hose...
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i'll just be using the stock feed line, i see no reason to change it.
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finally got everything for the clutch and flywheel.
i will be running a lightened aaz flywheel, with a clutchnet.com stage 2 clutch and pp for a 1984 gti. i didn't realize that not only are there 3 different flywheel sizes (190mm, 200mm, and 210mm,) there are also single 7mm pin and dual 6mm pin 210mm flywheels, the difference seems be after 94 they went to a single 7mm pin which is in the same position as one of the 6mm pins on older flywheels(i don't know which one and im not sure that the arrow on the pp in the picture is correct) so if anyone is doing something similar, make sure you order all the right parts, you can make a single pin flywheel work with a dual pin pressure plate but it's just best to avoid the whole affair by ordering all the right stuff. also its worth mentioning, that the dual pin setup centers the pp by using the 2 pins, while the single pin setup has extra ears around the pressure plate poking out, which center the pp against the inside walls of the flywheel.
for clutches there are also 3 different sizes 190, 200, and 210, and also 2 input shaft sizes, 16v, and mk3 020's have the larger input shaft.
also another note, i took my flywheel in to be resurfaced, lightened and balanced, if i did this all again i would just buy a complete kit that came with a lightened flywheel because having the work done cost the same as buying a new lw flywheel.
and just an argument i'd like to make after doing some reading on several forums, lightened flywheels benefit both gas and diesel engines for the same reasons, it has nothing to do with how high an engine revs, it removes weight that the engine would directly have to accelerate it, it's like the difference of having your air conditioning on or off. lightening the flywheel increases both torque and hp IT DOES NOT REDUCE TORQUE. that misconception comes from the only downside of a lightened flywheel, which is that it can make it more difficult when first starting out in gear because the engine has less inertia at idle. but anyone who can competently drive a manual should be able to handle the difference. heavy flywheels are for the millions of people who listen to miley cyrus while driving to and from work.
so here is the pp and clutch disc from clutchnet.com. supposed to be really good stuff from everything i have read and everyone i've talked to, customer service is not immediate but they are very knowledgeable once they call you back, and they do call you back.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v306/Trev0rbr/unnamed1_zpsa546abb4.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Trev0rbr/media/unnamed1_zpsa546abb4.jpg.html)
and here is the flywheel cut almost all the way down to the ring gear, it weighs about 8.75lbs
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v306/Trev0rbr/unnamed_zpsbd200a88.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Trev0rbr/media/unnamed_zpsbd200a88.jpg.html)
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the clutch net pp, from what i understand is custom built when you order it, the backing plate for it actually says sachs on it, but from what i can tell they disassemble it and install a much stronger spring membrane then reassemble it, and paint the backing plate according to what stage you ordered, mine actually still smelled like wet paint when i got it.
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Here's my take... There is a lot of misunderstanding regarding the relationship between torque and horsepower. When you add in the factor of the flywheel the misunderstandings are multiplied by that factor...
HP=Tq X RPM
ANYTHING that increases torque for a given rpm intrinsically increases horsepower at that rpm and vice versa. There is nothing that increases torque but decreases horsepower unless your are not including rpm...and not including rpm makes any discussion about HP and Torque just silly....
A flywheel does not change the torque or horsepower of the engine....
It does, however, store and release power, though. The storage of power in the flywheel means that the amount of power that is being stored in the flywheel at a given moment is not available to anything that receives power after the flywheel (trans, wheels, etc...). That means that as the engine is accelerating, power is being stored in the flywheel and so, the power to the wheels is less during acceleration with a heavier flywheel (or heavier rotating assembly in general). That power is not lost, though, it is passed on (to the components after the flywheel) during deceleration. Unfortunately, usually you want MORE power on acceleration and LESS power during deceleration and so, less rotational mass is better in that regard. Heavier rotational mass does stabilize changes in rpm and so will even out the power pulses of the engine resulting in less vibration. If someone that has a heavier flywheel revs up the engine and then dumps the clutch, they will perceive more torque than someone who does the same with a lightened flywheel because on revving the engine, additional power is stored in the heavier flywheel and when the clutch is dumped, that power is released to the trans/wheels. Once the clutch is completely released, the heavier flywheel will be storing more of the energy during acceleration and so the acceleration of the vehicle will be less. The poor sucker who dumps the clutch with the lightened flywheel, will stall the engine... :P If both of those guys know how to properly use a clutch, though, the guy with the lightened flywheel will accelerate faster... until the injection pump mounting bolts break from the added vibration... :P ;D
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haha. yes, the whole hp torque thing is something i usually bite my tongue and don't argue with people about. the sensation most people call torque is really just lots of hp at low rpms. thats why tdi's feel like a freight train to drive, with a stock turbo they basically have 90hp from idle to red line, where as a rabbit gti with the same hp only has it at upper rpms. or even to explain the following to someone is nearly impossible for them to understand, say you had 2 hoists one powered by a chevy 350 that makes 300hp at 4000rpms, and one powered by a honda 1.6l which makes 300hp at 8000 rpms. each engines geared to work the hoist so that it is working at its peak hp. at the chevys peak hp it makes 394 ft lbs, the honda makes 197 ft lbs. since both hoists are operating at the same hp they would both be able to lift the same amount of weight in the same amount of time. time being the important factor.
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and just to pull a libby: the formula for torque is actually HP = Torque*RPM/5252, come on man get yourself together.
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I didn't give the units for Torque... Your conversion factor only works for Ft-lbs... All the NM folks will KNOW you are wrong... :P
Typical HP vs. Torque discussions remind me of this video...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G8DNGh126oM
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these days i just make a short case then say lets agree to disagree(my way of saying you're too dense for this.) i give great concrete examples, and they are like, "yeah but torque is like that bottom end grunt, hp is up top derp."
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Had a little bit of progress today, if everything goes well with the turbo drain tomorrow then i should get it in thr car tomorrow.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v306/Trev0rbr/received_10205527872696150_zpsba3sn6a5.jpeg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Trev0rbr/media/received_10205527872696150_zpsba3sn6a5.jpeg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v306/Trev0rbr/Message_1417908565519_zpslpbcnaqs.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Trev0rbr/media/Message_1417908565519_zpslpbcnaqs.jpg.html)
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today quite a few things were accomplished
I got my oil drain assembled by combining the lower half of the k14 drain, and the upper half of the 1.6td drain tube, along with some 1/2" hose and clamps. the hose is pcv oil fuel hose, so I should not have to worry about that.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v306/Trev0rbr/20141207_164313_zpskkpigylr.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Trev0rbr/media/20141207_164313_zpskkpigylr.jpg.html)
for the heater core pipe/oil cooler hose, there are 3-4 different setups that vw used over the years. Mk1's had a smaller heatercore pipe than the later cars. Also some mk1's had a smaller outlet on the water pump, but i kept the aaz water pump which is the same pump that basically every water cooled vw has after 1982 or so. Anyway, if you use the hose PN: 068121058C you can get everything connected properly, and still use the mk1 coolant pipe to make the install a bit easier and simple.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v306/Trev0rbr/20141207_152927_zpscacwk3iw.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Trev0rbr/media/20141207_152927_zpscacwk3iw.jpg.html)
the me and a friend of mine spent some time wrestling the engine and trans until we got up in to where it belongs. Still lots of work to do, but all easy simple stuff. it's a very good feeling to finally have it in the engine bay.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v306/Trev0rbr/20141207_184939_zpshkuyxt52.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Trev0rbr/media/20141207_184939_zpshkuyxt52.jpg.html)
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Good deal. Now I remember on mine why the compressor got in the way. It was because of my intake I had to rotate it. Looks good, when are you going to drive it?
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Good deal. Now I remember on mine why the compressor got in the way. It was because of my intake I had to rotate it. Looks good, when are you going to drive it?
i don't think i'll have much time to work on it until this weekend, but it looks like the weather is going to be decent (in the 40's and no rain) so hopefully i can get it running. it's just hanging by the 2 side motor mounts currently, So i have a good bit of stuff to do yet, but none of that is very difficult so in 2 days i should have it going, after that i just gotta get a tag for it and then i can hit the streets. probably needs a new battery too, this ones probably 6 years old and hasn't been used for a year, so it's due to be replaced.
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So just a bit of an update here, I got most everything in and connectected this weekend, which was a pretty nice feeling
i'll get a better picture of this portion, but i wanted to show how i took this bracket that goes around the coolant outlet that goes on the side of the aaz head, on the aaz it holds the engine harness connector, turbo oil supply line, and the metal heater core pipe. I cut off the part that holds the engine harness connector since i am using all the rabbit wiring. And since i am use the rabbit heater core pipe, which normally gets tightened into the bottom stud of the coolant outlet, the aaz head sits higher due to the taller block, so it simply doesn't fit, but with the aaz bracket, and slightly bending it fits perfectly.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v306/Trev0rbr/received_10205583994699165.jpeg_zps6x7leyft.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Trev0rbr/media/received_10205583994699165.jpeg_zps6x7leyft.jpg.html)
Next i noticed i have a belt track issue ::) ::) ::) ::) ::) >:( >:( >:( >:( >:( ::) ::) ::) so i'll have to pull the pump back off and adjust the bracket i guess, i've never done this before, so any tips would be appreciated. I wanted to hear it run before i pull the pump back off though.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v306/Trev0rbr/received_10205586267235977_zpsbu1cchbw.jpeg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Trev0rbr/media/received_10205586267235977_zpsbu1cchbw.jpeg.html)
and here is just a picture of how it sits, i haven't been able to get it started it, it's not getting fuel or not enough fuel, and it's only getting fuel to cylinders 2 and 4 (the lowest 2 deliver valves)when it does. I back filled the pump by filling a gear oil bottle with diesel fuel and stuck a hose on it, connected thatto the IP's "out" oulet, i used an in bolt for free flow though, and squeezed it through until the clear feed line had absolutely no bubbles. Tonight im going to pick up an electric lift pump, and see if that will get it started, then i can tear the pump back off haha. I am thinking it may have stuck vanes as the pump i got was not sealed at all.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v306/Trev0rbr/received_10205586264795916_zpskibleu0y.jpeg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Trev0rbr/media/received_10205586264795916_zpskibleu0y.jpeg.html)
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well after talking to a few friends i decided to grab one of these mr gasket diesel fuel pumps (http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/mr.-gasket-electric-diesel-fuel-transfer-pump-12d/6340003-P), it was 55 dollars, which i thought was cheap enough, i just stuck it on real quick with aligator clips and no hose clamps, turned it on and in about ten seconds all the lines were full of fuel, i cranked the engine over and it started almost immediately, then did this haha
video:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v306/Trev0rbr/th_20141216_190509_zps0p5cvtcf.mp4) (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v306/Trev0rbr/20141216_190509_zps0p5cvtcf.mp4)
i am thinking something inside the pump is sticking from sitting.
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That's not really abnormal. I'd back off the max fuel screw a turn and try again. Keep backing it off until it either doesn't run away or won't start.
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That's not really abnormal. I'd back off the max fuel screw a turn and try again. Keep backing it off until it either doesn't run away or won't start.
ok i wanted to let it set with diesel purge in it before i messed with any setting, this is supposedly a giles pump. once i can get it to idle, i'll try tackling this belt tracking issue.
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There's nothing wrong with Diesel Purge. You KNOW you will eventually be messing with the max fuel screw regardless of where it's set now. I'd just keep track of the number of turns.
You probably already know (but it's worth mentioning) that adjusting the pump bracket adjusts tracking. Sprocket down tracks toward the engine, sprocket up tracks away.
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There's nothing wrong with Diesel Purge. You KNOW you will eventually be messing with the max fuel screw regardless of where it's set now. I'd just keep track of the number of turns.
You probably already know (but it's worth mentioning) that adjusting the pump bracket adjusts tracking. Sprocket down tracks toward the engine, sprocket up tracks away.
yeah i knew i was going be messing with the pump somehow since it's obviously not going be working in its current state haha
and i was hoping someone would chime in about the pump bracket, i've never had to adjust one before so i wasn't even sure where to start with moving it, thanks a lot! currently it hangs off the engine side of the pulleys about 1mm
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if i had just bought this pump on sunday, i could probably be done with the swap by now ::) live and learn.
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The alignment (or not) of the sprockets is not the pertinent factor. They are almost never exactly aligned and trying to align them is not the way to go about getting the tracking right. To adjust the belt tracking, pull the pump back off, loosen the three pump mounting bolts and rotate the belt side of the bracket DOWN and the side toward the flywheel UP in order to make it track closer to the engine or the opposite way to make it track away. Reinstall the belt right in the middle of the sprockets and rotate it through several turns until it stops wandering. Lather. Rinse. Repeat as necessary.
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The alignment (or not) of the sprockets is not the pertinent factor. They are almost never exactly aligned and trying to align them is not the way to go about getting the tracking right. To adjust the belt tracking, pull the pump back off, loosen the three pump mounting bolts and rotate the belt side of the bracket DOWN and the side toward the flywheel UP in order to make it track closer to the engine or the opposite way to make it track away. Reinstall the belt right in the middle of the sprockets and rotate it through several turns until it stops wandering. Lather. Rinse. Repeat as necessary.
thanks for that, very helpful, i should be really quick at timing them till i am done doing all that haha.
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i messed with it a little bit last night, i backed the max fuel screw out until it wouldn't start (2.5 turns) and then tried anywhere in between, and it will either not start, or it will runaway(with much less smoke haha) so something is stuck internally. i have a stock pump i'll swap on for now while i try to figure out what the deal is with this one.
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didn't get much time today, but i pulled the pump off and got the top off of it, all of the governor weights were stuck in, so i just popped them out with a screw driver and worked them a little bit to make sure they didn't stick again. they seemed to be mechanically jammed, and not gummed up or anything. Regardless that was obviously the issue. So tomorrow i can hopefully get the belt tracking straight and everything else buttoned up
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since you have the pump off you should give it a shot, but fwiw if it is only 3/16" or less I don't worry about it. Maybe there is a spec somewhere that says how much to be off? I have never had one perfect that I have owned. All of mine have been about 1/8" off either way, never centered. Great find on the vanes. Hope all is well with it now.
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the belt actually hangs off the sprocket on the inside, maybe 1-2mm of over hang, so that definitely needs fixed haha, i don't intend to make it perfect, because like you said very few of them are. unfortunately i don't really have any time to work on it.
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(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v306/Trev0rbr/received_10205634163993366_zpsm45rryth.jpeg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Trev0rbr/media/received_10205634163993366_zpsm45rryth.jpeg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v306/Trev0rbr/received_10205634241635307_zps6yatiwwb.jpeg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Trev0rbr/media/received_10205634241635307_zps6yatiwwb.jpeg.html)
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I adjust the tracking each time I have the bracket off and when I do, I get it to run in the center or very close to it. I typically won't adjust the tracking again/otherwise until the belt is very near the edge of the sprocket at one side or the other or if it is rubbing on the back of the crank pulley.
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I adjust the tracking each time I have the bracket off and when I do, I get it to run in the center or very close to it. I typically won't adjust the tracking again/otherwise until the belt is very near the edge of the sprocket at one side or the other or if it is rubbing on the back of the crank pulley.
i was lucky and got the belt pretty close to straight on my first try, then i got everything put together enough to drive it. I was missing the boost line that goes from the compressor housing to the waste gate on my car, but lucas helped me figure out that it was just an american double flare fitting, fortunately when i was fitting the flare on to the waste gate, the threads broke off, so currently i am running just closed wastegate. Im also pretty sure that i have the throttle arm a spline or 2 off, so im not quite getting full pedal, either way this thing is pretty quick, once i hit 3 grand the vtec kicks in and it really pulls. thanks for all the help from everyone on the forum, even if u didn't post in this thread, at some point you've probably helped me learn something, or i searched and read lots of old threads. still lots of little things to do on it, but just driving it again is awesome.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v306/Trev0rbr/th_20141227_211026_zpso9vme03q.mp4) (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v306/Trev0rbr/20141227_211026_zpso9vme03q.mp4)
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Great job. Congrats on getting it going.
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Thanks andrew, i havent worked on it lately other than i had forgotten to block off the wg line on the turbo compressor, so i blocked that off and the turbo is much more responsive, my oil pan had a small hole in it that i just plugged with some of that puddy epoxy jb weld stuff. I also have a coolant leak, but im gonna take a break from this car *** for a month or 2.
How the bay currently looks, i love the t3 hybrid, seems to be a nice turbo so far, and it bolts on just like stock, and even looks stock on the outside.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v306/Trev0rbr/received_10205707298901693_zpsqyk5gf2j.jpeg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Trev0rbr/media/received_10205707298901693_zpsqyk5gf2j.jpeg.html)
And another dumb video, this ones from before the wg port was blocked too.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v306/Trev0rbr/th_20141227_211105_zpszsvkoocf.mp4) (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v306/Trev0rbr/20141227_211105_zpszsvkoocf.mp4)
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I finally got my new antique license plate for the rabbit last night, i replaced the fuel lines, i had used vacuum lines on the returns temporarily, it only took a day or 2 for them to get soft, swell up, and start leaking haha. I zip tied a few things and adjusted the throttle so that i can now get full pedal. Then i took it out for its first legal drive with the aaz. After those adjustments it is now very fast, and this is with no intercooler, its really impressive how one of these engines can run with a proper injection pump and proper sized turbo, i wish i had made a video although i think i'd need a passenger to help me now haha.
Unfortunately the excitement was short lived when the turbo started sounding a bit different, it took me a bit to figure it out but the nut that holds the compressor wheel on to the turbine shaft backed off. Which is surprising as i'm sure that i made it tight, i even used loctite on it. The compressor wheel must have rubbed on the housing a little bit, tomorrow im going to pull the turbo and the compressor housing to inspect and retighten it, and also get my wastegate working properly.
the whole thing is pretty disheartening though, because theman53 actually built a similar turbo his was a 45 trim t3 compressor from a mercedes td, bolted to the stock .36 hot side, and he had the nut come loose on his, then had it professionally rebuilt a second time, the second time a turbine shaft and nut with left handed threads was used, and instead of loosening the nut it snapped the turbine shaft.
my turbo is a stock vw .36 ar exhaust side with a volvo 50 trim t3 compressor, so nearly the same. and here is strike one my compressor nut has backed off, so after i fix it i will be very nervous with this turbo. I think the issue may be cause by turbo stall, because all of the load on the compressor is spun in a way that would loosen the nut, u can hear really well in the second video how it sounds when i let off the gas pedal. the only solution may be either a blow off valve or a stronger turbine shaft, but i will go to a different turbo before i waste anymore money on t3 stuff haha.
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did not get a chance to work on it, saturday night i went to a fund raiser that included unlimited beer with the cover charge... so i was not very productive on sunday :P :P :P luckily i won almost 100 dollars at the event, so im going to take that money and buy a new genuine t3 50 trim compressor wheel that i found on ebay. i was just going to retighten the compressor nut and use the wheel thats on it now, but for 50 bucks i can get this brand new already balanced wheel, so why not????
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Wow-NEW-Performance-T3-50-Turbo-Compressor-Wheel-/400055174929?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5d25258711&vxp=mtr (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Wow-NEW-Performance-T3-50-Turbo-Compressor-Wheel-/400055174929?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5d25258711&vxp=mtr)
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http://www.ebay.com/itm/Turbo-Charger-Repair-Rebuild-kit-T3-T4-T04E-TO4E-360-degree-thrusting-bearing-/111182875895
might want to add that too, it will need all the help it can get.
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well, i ordered the new compressor wheel and 360* thrust bearing, just have to wait on them to get here now. hopefully with the wastegate connected i won't have this problem again, if i do then i give up on this hybrid turbo.
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pulled the turbo yesterday and tore it down last night. everything was in much worse shape than i had thought, oil was leaking on the intake and exhaust sides of the turbo, the compressor wheel was destroyed, and the compressor wheel spun on the turbine shaft so much that it left a bunch of aluminum stuck to the turbine shaft, so much that i couldn't even get the thrust bearing/washer off the shaft. so basically all of this is junk, and i'm going to build another hybrid from the parts i have left plus another stock t3 that i have, this time with the wastegate connected and limited to stock boost, and 15psi after i get a chance to enjoy the car. but if this one fails as well then i give up on the hybrid, obviously the old garrett stuff can't handle this configuration.
pics to come.
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the backing plate center hole was also all worn out, which is not good because that is where the oil seal seals against.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v306/Trev0rbr/20150125_153227_zpsmo2cc0ly.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Trev0rbr/media/20150125_153227_zpsmo2cc0ly.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v306/Trev0rbr/IMG_20150125_160217_zpsxvtupxzk.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Trev0rbr/media/IMG_20150125_160217_zpsxvtupxzk.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v306/Trev0rbr/20150125_153950_zpsnfxqeytp.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Trev0rbr/media/20150125_153950_zpsnfxqeytp.jpg.html)
and here was the thrust bearing, which is not totally bad looking, but it only has 20 miles on it, so it is very bad haha
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v306/Trev0rbr/received_10205988126882217_zpszflnt5gc.jpeg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Trev0rbr/media/received_10205988126882217_zpszflnt5gc.jpeg.html)
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well, the compressor wheel i ended up getting was chinese, and not genuine garrett like i thought, the seller insisted that he sells garrett parts and that i must have been sent the wrong one by accident, so now i will be receiving a billet aluminum compressor wheel, which is pretty sweet, this next iteration will have a 360* thrust bearing and billet aluminum compressor wheel. should be pretty durable, but we will see.
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So i have just now begun working on this again. I rebuilt my turbo with a completely different center housing, compressor backing plate, kts billet alluminum compressor wheel, and turbine shaft/wheel. the only things i've reused from the last turbo is the compressor and turbine housings.
i've resolved two issues with this rebuild, first off is that the billet wheel is designed to flow much more air, so the fins are thinner and have a better design, and also the center hub cone is much much smaller.
the problem is that the normal t3 compressor nuts are too large and actually block part of the flow area since they are a larger diameter than the compressors hub. i considered a few different compressor nut solutions but i decided to use a jet nut from mcmastercarr they're a distorted flanged lock nut made from some a steel alloy designed to handle temperatures of over 1300*f, so i will be using that along with high temp red loctite.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#98892a500/=wvmj9g
normal t3 nut:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v306/Trev0rbr/Message_1429569340084_zps62yfnvkw.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Trev0rbr/media/Message_1429569340084_zps62yfnvkw.jpg.html)
the second issue was that the fitting to connect the boost signal to my wg had broken off, which i am pretty sure is why my first turbo failed, so i drilled and tapped the whole for a 1/8" npt fitting, and added an elbow and 1/4" barb.
and heres a picture of how it will look all together
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v306/Trev0rbr/Message_1429578041344_zpsyg2cekog.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Trev0rbr/media/Message_1429578041344_zpsyg2cekog.jpg.html)
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I hope it works for you. Looks good anyhow.
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thanks lucas.
i really love all these small details on projects, i spent way more time on all this than it was worth especially since i don't intend on running this car very hard or even running an intercooler.
i got the nuts in the mail and was able to thread one on a little to see how these fit, and they're absolutely perfect. i didn't run it on the whole way because i need to find some high temp red loctite first.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v306/Trev0rbr/20150426_210533_zps2mhyiurq.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Trev0rbr/media/20150426_210533_zps2mhyiurq.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v306/Trev0rbr/20150426_210526_zpsfv8dkeon.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Trev0rbr/media/20150426_210526_zpsfv8dkeon.jpg.html)
and here it is compared to some normal compressor nuts off of some various t3's ive disassembled. it is a lot smaller which worries me a little bit.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v306/Trev0rbr/20150426_211109_zpsijk8m3cm.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Trev0rbr/media/20150426_211109_zpsijk8m3cm.jpg.html)
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I spent time last night and got the turbo installed back on the car and ran it for a minute on jack stands. No real progress other than that it's back together. heres a few pics
turbo together in my kitchen with boost line and proper sized compressor nut
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v306/Trev0rbr/20150519_195554_zpsah0o2av8.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Trev0rbr/media/20150519_195554_zpsah0o2av8.jpg.html)
and the untidy view from underneath
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v306/Trev0rbr/received_10206863562367557_zpssvnkfuzq.jpeg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Trev0rbr/media/received_10206863562367557_zpssvnkfuzq.jpeg.html)
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Finally got to drive this car some more last night, i took it and washed it and ran a few errands with it, the turbo and engine were running great, turbo boosted to 12psi and stayed there nicely. spool up is just ok with this turbo its very responsive in higher gears and on hills, the car has good power especially for 12psi, but once i have a boost controller on it will spool faster, it spooled up really fast when i was running it with a closed wastegate. i plan to run 15-20psi to try and stay safe.
but before i get to turn up the boost, i have to deal with what ever this issue is.
http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php/topic,35891.0.html
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Well the issue i had must have been that i did not properly torque the pressure plate to crank bolts. so the pp came loose and the holes got egged out.
i had planned on swapping the backing plate of my pressure plate with a good back plate from a used pressure plate that i had. but then i tore the car apart and left it sit all summer, and eventually i decided that wasn't going to happen so i stopped procastinating and just ordered a new pressure plate.
got everything back together this weekend, and so probably put 40 miles on it, which has been really fun to finally drive it. I had a few small issues but so far the turbo seems to be holding up fine.
i am waiting on my oil pressure gauge before i wire everything up, but heres a video of me revving with my sweet dual boost gauge showing boost(green) and emp(orange). Alcaid shared that cool gauge
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v306/Trev0rbr/Mobile%20Uploads/th_received_10208287312720426_zpswcwgrafk.mp4) (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v306/Trev0rbr/Mobile%20Uploads/received_10208287312720426_zpswcwgrafk.mp4)
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I like that gauge. I hope you have better luck than I did with garrets.
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I like that gauge. I hope you have better luck than I did with garrets.
i have about 80 miles on the new turbo now, so far so good, but the last one died at high boost, so we will see how this one does once i get to increasing the boost pressure.
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I spent time last night and got the turbo installed back on the car and ran it for a minute on jack stands. No real progress other than that it's back together. heres a few pics
turbo together in my kitchen with boost line and proper sized compressor nut
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v306/Trev0rbr/20150519_195554_zpsah0o2av8.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Trev0rbr/media/20150519_195554_zpsah0o2av8.jpg.html)
and the untidy view from underneath
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v306/Trev0rbr/received_10206863562367557_zpssvnkfuzq.jpeg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Trev0rbr/media/received_10206863562367557_zpssvnkfuzq.jpeg.html)
What's that curled up copper line for?
Sent from my SM-G920W8 using Tapatalk
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the copper is to cool down the air coming out of the exhaust manifold so that i can attach a hose with out it melting and measure the exhaust manifold pressure, and see how efficient or inefficient that my turbo is working. if you watch the video above you can see my boost gauge has 2 needles, the orange needle is the exhaust manifold pressure, and the green one is the boost pressure. i thought this was important since this is a custom turbo
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Oh that's cool, I wasn't able to open the video so that's why I wondered, how much of a difference in pressure are you getting and where did you find a dual needle boost gauge?
Sent from my SM-G920W8 using Tapatalk
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http://www.hewittindustries.com/pressure_gauges_fuel-boost_dual.html
under acceleration ive seen it go as high as 20psi in the exhaust but this before the turbo actually spools up, boost is around 10psi but can spike to 15. but when i am accelerating and boost is holding steady at 10psi then the emp is around 15psi.
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sweeet man... kinda reminds me of my 87 mitsu montero 2dr... it was old and people made fun of it, but it was in mint condition and I loved that thing...
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I haven't posted much, the engines been driving really nice when i take it out on the weekend. I probably have about 600 miles on the new setup now, the clutch has broken in really nicely, it used to chatter when first engaging it, but now its very smooth, almost like a stock clutch, but never slips. Turbo seems to have loosened up, and it maintains 8psi really well. I am driving the car more, so i will soon be able to give some mpg numbers that are accurate and dont involve any fuel leaks. I also ordered a gtech in car dyno, which i will have by the weekend, so i will record hp and acceleration numbers, very very soon. this will give me some base line numbers at 8 psi before i increase boost and possibly play with fueling. previously when i ran higher boost it seem to get plenty of fuel and really hauled ass, but i don't have any numbers or anything.
so heres a picture of the engine bay cleaned up more and with the air filter installed and fuel filter relocated. still have some ugly wires but they will be hidden soon enough.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v306/Trev0rbr/IMG_20160626_235525_zps6l3qzi6q.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Trev0rbr/media/IMG_20160626_235525_zps6l3qzi6q.jpg.html)
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Cool.
Build a box around that air cleaner to keep the engine heat away.
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Well there's not really enough room, or enough will on my part to do that haha. The ac lines are right under it, just adding the stock intake with the cone filter actually made it run a lot better, a very noticeable increase on the butt dyno. I found another problem last night though, there is an exhaust leak on cylinder 1 exhaust manifold gasket, but I'll fix that this weekend.
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I bought a gtech which arrived last night, once i have the software and stuff figured out i will post dyno graphs. I only did two 1/4mile, 16.5 was the best of the two, but that one had a slower 0-60, the fastest 0-60 is 8.25. Not particularly exciting, most cars are that fast. the interesting thing for me is that this is at only 8psi with no intercooler. on my other car long ago i also ran a 16.5, but that was with a 1.6td with a k24 and a cranked stock pump and 30psi. so this car is faster with a quarter of the boost. i will be increasing boost and playing with fueling and recording all of that with the gtech. i will also swap from my t3 hybrid to a k14 and compare all the numbers.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v306/Trev0rbr/IMG_20160630_224736_zps4fclfywj.jpg)
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30 PSI is more than a K24 can provide with any sort of efficiency. Remember it takes pressure to make pressure and the K24 compressor is only 75% efficient or so in its sweet spot, probably more like 50% at 30 PSI. Running overly high boost is like running a really restrictive exhaust, you WANT there to be plenty of exhaust flowing through the wastegate rather than through the turbine.
Having the G-Tech will be a lot of fun and will definitely help quantify the tuning changes you're making. Sounds like fun!
Sent from my XT1097 using Tapatalk
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oh yes i agree, especially the k24(vs t3) is not good for that much boost, this highlights the importance of using more efficient(sometimes bigger) turbos, and the importance of higher rpm performance through a performance injection pump. the larger displacement of my aaz is definitely not the main factor in having a car which is just as fast at 1/4 of the boost. although honestly at 8psi, i think the car would probably be faster with the original k14 that came on the aaz, and i will experiment with that, it is not much work to switch from t3 to k14.
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I installed a boost controller and set the boost up for 15psi, it is a much better driving car in every way. It runs cooler and the turbo is much more responsive, and even off boost the engine smokes much less. It's also much faster, i'll try and get some gtech numbers soon.
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with the boost controller creeping to nearly 20psi (how ever emps never over 25psi) and also egts which will exceed 1300 degrees on a long i went and did a few dynos, im still getting used to the gtech, i don't like this unit, it does not do a very good job at scaling rpms, but it says even with the rpms off the peak hp rating will be correct... im guessing the torque numbers are what suffer. so this run had a peak hp of 130whp @4340, and peak torque of 160ftlbs@4287, there were 2 other runs that i would consider close to accurate, one was 122whp & 140tq, and the other 133whp & 180tq. these runs were done on the same road in different directions or what ever.
all of the dynographs are shaped like this one with a huge dip in power between 3-4000 rpms, im not sure what the issue is, i think its fueling or something, because theres definitely a dead spot in acceleration then the turbo lights off and goes from 10-20psi instantly and pulls hard to 4500-5k. but i have a few things im going to check before i speculate and gripe too much on here.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v306/Trev0rbr/1469153919321_zpsvjifdgyi.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Trev0rbr/media/1469153919321_zpsvjifdgyi.jpg.html)
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how is the LDA spring adjusted? I would start there, interesting either way let us know what it is when you find out.
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how is the LDA spring adjusted? I would start there, interesting either way let us know what it is when you find out.
i have removed it and reinstalled it but i didnt mess with an settings, i'll pull it out and make sure its in straight and everything, but even if it were stuck i wouldn't expect me to lose power, i think it should still keep climbing just not at as fast of a rate.... i was thinking maybe i have the throttle shaft indexed wrong or something and it creates a weird issue when changing over from intermediate to main spring... no idea tho.
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so far i have checked that my lift pump is not limiting anything, i tapped my in bolt and drove around with a pressure gauge and it holds steady at 5 psi in every condition at every rpm, i was quite impressed actually since it was a cheap ass lift pump. also if i am leisurely accelerating and i am in second gear and go past 3-3500 some where in there it make a badunk noise almost like a miss but keep on accelerating.
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spoke with libby:
"Is there any smoke during that dip in power? The first thing I'd try would be lowering the star wheel. You can pull the atmospheric bleed filter and run use a flat blade so you can make easy adjustments without pulling the lid and pin each time."
i don't think the car smokes hardly at all anymore, and i really doubt it does during the dip, it really doesn't smoke except off boost slightly before the turbo spools.
as far as the start wheel goes mine is non adjustable, there is no star wheel in this lda
some friends have suggested to check the case pressure relief valve, which i will pull tomorrow i just didn't have time to grind out a 10mm socket tonight. although i don't think that is the issue since i have the timing set pretty far back at 0.93mm and i thought that would affect higher rpms more than lower or mid range... but i will still check it to eliminate the possibility.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v306/Trev0rbr/received_10210182390456185_zps8uqbdzz0.jpeg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Trev0rbr/media/received_10210182390456185_zps8uqbdzz0.jpeg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v306/Trev0rbr/20160725_202411_zpsoraroume.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Trev0rbr/media/20160725_202411_zpsoraroume.jpg.html)
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(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v306/Trev0rbr/20160722_165043_zpsmk5tene0.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Trev0rbr/media/20160722_165043_zpsmk5tene0.jpg.html)
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Can you gain more travel for the LDA pin by removing that nylon spacer? You want to make sure the feeler pin isn't pinched.
Do you have EGT gauge hooked up?
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yes the nylon washer easily slides off, i hadn't thought of messing with it tho since on boost power seemed to be good
making sure that the pin isn't pinched, do you mean by the o ring or internally? when i pull the throttle it pushes the pin out easily
yes i have an egt gauge hooked up, if i floor it for a while i can get over 1200 degrees quite easily, but i haven't ever left it get over 1400.
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By pinching the feeler pin, I was referring to the possibility that the top 'shelf' in the boost pin cutout could push down on the feeler pin if the boost pin is allowed to move that far.
Have you done the governor mod? Maybe the governor is starting to cut fuel at 3.5k rpms.
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i did measure, with the nylon spacer the boost pin can't move down far enough to pinch the feeler pin
the pump is a giles pump i bought second hand, i had to open it when i first installed it because the governor weights were stuck from sitting... you can see it has some type of governor mod with an added spring.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v306/Trev0rbr/received_10205634163993366_zpsm45rryth.jpeg)
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also that'd be an odd though, 3500 is where it really begins to make power after losing it.
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What is the boost pressure at 3500?
One suspicion of mine would be that the dip in power would be the governor cutting back fuel before the turbo starts to push the boost pin down. Then the boost pressure builds enough to push the pin down and the power takes off again. I'm not convinced that makes sense, though.
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i gave up working on it tonight because i am having trouble with my tach... but it builds 10psi and kind of holds that until 3500 then nearly instantly goes to 20psi. which is what has me thinking it could be something with the governor as well. im not sure how much boost is a factor, even at 8psi(stock wg no boost controller) i still had a similar dip in power i can post a picture of that
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torque had already peaked at 2800, then drops off, then peaks again at 4100, both at around 105 ft lbs, peak hp is at 4100 83whp... this is 8psi stock wg
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v306/Trev0rbr/20160726_195422_HDR_zpsvgwsnsqw.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Trev0rbr/media/20160726_195422_HDR_zpsvgwsnsqw.jpg.html)
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If you are already seeing 10 psi prior to the dip then it is not LDA related. The AAZ boost spring is weak and will be completely compressed by then.
Any chance the wastegate valve is opening partially? Then the exhaust flow is enough to overcome the leak and the power rises again.
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well, it is possible the spring is not original its very tall and pretty stiff . as far as the wastegate i have no idea, but that is a possibility, but i wouldn't expect that to create such a sudden and abrupt gain in power.
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i really need to experiment tonight before i speculate too much more, but it could still be the lda, it has a tremendous amount of preload, i think i have to press it down an inch or more before i can start screwing in the lda lid, so it could be that power flattens out as non enriched fueling reaches it's peak then when the lda starts to receive enough boost to move it suddenly comes to life. but i just need to try some of the stuff discussed here, 1 thing will be to just remove the spring that way only my foot controls max fueling.
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so tonight i eliminated the possibility of it being the lda, i removed the spring and drove it that way and also dynoed it... also keep in mind the scaling of the gtech is not very accurate so torque numbers and actual rpm points are not correct, but the curve shapes and hp numbers are correct, just not necessarily at the exact rpm it shows. so removing the spring did not change anything other than creating lots of black smoke at low rpms. but this is now the third time i dynoed over 130whp, and it was well over 80 degrees at the time, with no intercooler, i think thats impressive, but this dead low rpm *** is not haha.
this run was 131.7hp @ 4600 and 150 ft lbs @4559, how ever it does peak at 150 @ 3300 prior to that, then drops to 105, then back up to 150 at 4559
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v306/Trev0rbr/20160727_202216_HDR_zpsmuwy2iv8.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Trev0rbr/media/20160727_202216_HDR_zpsmuwy2iv8.jpg.html)
picture of the boost pin and spring...
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v306/Trev0rbr/20160727_195622_zpsai0mucgj.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Trev0rbr/media/20160727_195622_zpsai0mucgj.jpg.html)
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How does the engine sound at that time? Maybe the dynamic advance is too much, it gets overly advanced at 3500 rpms, the power dips, but with even more rpms, the advance runs out and the engine catches up so the timing is good again. Power then increases. Just a theory...
What about the turbo going into surge for that drop? How's it sound?
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it really doesn't make any odd noises turbo or otherwise, you can definitely feel that power flattens out and then the big jump in power though. i think its possible that it simply isn't efficient down that low its a pretty big compressor 42.5mm inducer and 60mm exducer and its a billet wheel which would push everything further to the right and move the efficiency to high flow rates... i just would still expect a more linear power curve and not an actual loss... ill map it again and see where everything sits
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Check into a shorter and softer spring if the other stuff doesn't pan out. OR test the spring movement with air pressure from a regulator so you know at x psi it moves this much.
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Check into a shorter and softer spring if the other stuff doesn't pan out. OR test the spring movement with air pressure from a regulator so you know at x psi it moves this much.
i don't think its anything lda related, i drove it with the lda spring removed, and it made no difference like the last dyno i posted shows. with out the spring there is not fuel limiting so i was getting full fueling no matter what the boost psi was.
i also plotted my engine on the compressor map. the blue and red lines are at 70 degree ambient temp, blue line is 18 psi 2000-5000 rpms, red line is 8 psi 2000-5000 rpms, each dot is 1000 rpms, starting at 2000.
the green line would represent a more realistic example of where i am on the map, its at 85 degrees outside temp, and has the rpm and boost levels listed... 3500 rpms is where i enter 70% efficiency. but regardless, i have the same issue at 8 psi as i do at 18, so i think this problem is definitely pump related. i am thinking sticking advance piston or something wrong with case pressure relief. or just a ***ty setting of the throttle lever and max fueling screw.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v306/Trev0rbr/received_10210202063027987_zpscptah3o3.jpeg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Trev0rbr/media/received_10210202063027987_zpscptah3o3.jpeg.html)
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If it is a pump issue I would think it was due to an issue with case pressure and dynamic advance. It does not sound like a max fuel or accelerator lever issue.
Maybe try retarding the static timing and see what the graph looks like.
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i agree, i will try a can of diesel purge, but if that doesn't work i will put the stock pump on and clean this one out, the pump head seal is weaping anyway.
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Ran it with lines in the purge can until the can was half empty and now it's sitting over night
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The backing plate for it actually says sachs on it, but from what i can tell they disassemble it and install a much strong spring membrane then reassemble it,
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its kind of funny that the spam bot mentioned that, the straps on my pressure plate are torn, luckily clutchnet.com told me they would fix it for free, it sucks that i have to tear the transmission off again, but atleast i wont have to foot a big bill for new parts.
the diesel purge didn't seem to help with the dead spot in power, but the cooler weather did, so i think the issue is turbo inefficiency, the cooler it gets outside the more efficient the turbo is.
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not much of an update since i haven't really gotten to experiment. but i replaced the clutch again, clutchnet fixed my pressure plate for free even though it was out of warrant, and they also triple strapped it so that i wouldn't tear any straps again.
I've only driven it a few times but now that the temperature is drastically lower the power now really comes on at 2500, i think the power dip issue is definitely compressor surge, i'll be add an intercooler soon which should help to increase flow and efficiency, which should mostly eliminate the compressor surge.
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I am still working at my AAZ into the 81 Caddy swap , question , what did you do for a down pipe off the turbo ?
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also you mentioned in another thread about the crank pulley mod ? what is that ?
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I am still working at my AAZ into the 81 Caddy swap , question , what did you do for a down pipe off the turbo ?
a friend of mine made me a 2.5" downpipe, but it was made for a 1.6td in a mk1 so i had to adjust it a little bit. Techtonics tuning does make an off the shelf option.
crank pulley mod, the aaz used the same crankpulley style as the 1.6, and it is a common failure point for the crank sprocket to work itself loose and destroy the crank nose, the nose can be modified so that a tdi crank sprocket can be used. i didn't do this because i believe the issue is caused by the use of a serpentine belt and i used the rabbit v belt set up. either way the crank nose should be checked, and reinstalled with a new stretch and torqued to proper the proper torque spec. this is also an issue on g60 engines.
http://techtonicstuning.com/main/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_11_4_284&products_id=593
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ok , thanks ,I will be using the V-belt accy as well , I wish to keep the factory AC etc , and not cut the front support ,
where did the timing cover need to be trimmed ? to use the V belt accy ? are the 4 speed and 5 speed trans linkage the same ?
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u have to trim around the crank sprocket or else the v belt pulley will rub, if you try to bolt the v belt pulley on to the engine while the lower timing belt cover is on you will see what needs to be trimmed.
4 and 5 speed linkage is different, im not sure what parts are actually different though. you can use 5 speed linkage on a 4 speed but not 4 speed linkage on a 5 speed.
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this car has kept me busy ever since swapping the aaz in to it.
A few weeks ago i decided to increase the boost to lower EGT's... because lowering the fueling would be no fun. I was headed for a car show and decided to stretch my cars legs on the highway, well when i let off the gas pedal i heard a "fump sound" and saw a cloud of white smoke in the rear view mirror and my car shut off. I tried restarting it, but no dice so i called a tow truck.
the next day i tried turning it over by hand but it could only turn 20-30 degrees in each direction before it would stop on something, so i pulled the head, and surprisingly everything looked fine inside, which made me more curious.... the injection pump turned over fine by hand and so did the crank and head. When i looked at the head closer i could see the intake valves had exchanged soot with the pistons... theres a stranger color because i was burning wmo
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v306/Trev0rbr/IMG_20170429_230236_442_zpsz2uv7dxe.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v306/Trev0rbr/received_10212957100422200_zpsfpu2omp0.jpeg)
obviously, it had jumped time, so i assumed it was the aaz crank nose issue, so i pulled the sprocket which looked perfectly fine.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v306/Trev0rbr/20170430_1154041_zpsguxpqeud.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v306/Trev0rbr/20170430_1157551_zpsqo7nu5mq.jpg)
but when i pulled the sprocket out... this little washer fell out with it and then i knew what had happened
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v306/Trev0rbr/20170430_1156001_zpsbrzuppqs.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v306/Trev0rbr/20170430_1155481_zpstmea3vvu.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v306/Trev0rbr/20170430_1155361_zpsqacih8lu.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v306/Trev0rbr/20170501_1908491_zps6fahk7xu.jpg)
so now i have a new set of valves, lifters, valve seals, timing belt, and crank sprocket all on the way. i'll lap the new valves in as this head and block are in pretty nice shape, the valves are very tight in the valve guides... in a good healthy way not a weird bent way haha.
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When I was reading your post I thought it was strange that the cam timing jumped to the advance position. Crank sprocket slipping or cam sprocket slipping will make it go retarded. It all made sense when I saw the next pic. Make sure you use nyloc or stover nuts for the injection pump mounting so that even if they loosen they won't fall off.
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ah ok, very good idea thanks for the suggestion. i think this washer was in the upper timing belt, one of the holes that a bolt goes through on a mk3, but is used for the motor mount on a mk1. something i must have over looked, and now is costing some time and parts haha. I'm waiting on my 3-4" micrometer to arrive so i can measure the bores also
im thinking of putting the stock pump and turbo on this engine and preparing to sell the whole setup in favor of my recently acquired 3.6l monster.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v306/Trev0rbr/IMG_20170512_205430_511_zpsgz1rtcee.jpg)
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so here are the new prechambers i ordered from napa, they are not magnetic
measure as follow:
flange diameter 32mm
barrel diameter 27.85mm
overall height 17mm
flange height 4mm
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v306/Trev0rbr/20170519_172904_zpsfhlqffgr.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v306/Trev0rbr/20170519_172853_zps62aligeb.jpg)
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I remember this was very nice, sucks that the pics are gone now. :(
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when i get a chance i will move all of my pictures to another host... it really is sad what photobucket has done to so much good info on the internet.
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I haven't covered much of what i've done in the last year, but the engine skipped time, so i rebuilt the head and changed some seals in the pump and had it running for about a month then i was driving it very spiritedly and had a bit of a run away, it shut down pretty quickly but the damage was done. I had known the bottom end was a bit worn making this a possibility, but i decided to run 30psi anyway so this is the result haha. I need to take a break from it now and finish some other projects before i come back to this and either go to over sized pistons or swap to an ahu engine i have.
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i am just hoping the head is ok, i haven't removed it yet, but i did a compression test and the results were 0-220-150-220 so i know something is definitely very bad. I used an endoscope camera to view inside and the pistons look ok so thats a decent sign.
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It's been a long time, but today I was thinking about the missing low rpm power I had with this engine. Since then I've read that you should apply 12v to the solenoid on the front of the pump's advance piston cover. Well, I had applied this voltage, and now wonder if that could have been the issue,
It still may have been an issue with the turbo. We'll know soon because I've been putting together an m-TDI for this car over the past few years and I'll be using the same turbo.
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Is the 12 VDC applied to the advance piston only when cold to help it start? Not during normal running and warm temps. Just asking as I don't have that engine knowledge. Just thinking out loud I guess.
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with the boost controller creeping to nearly 20psi (however temps never over 25psi) and also EGTs which will exceed 1300 degrees on a long I went and did a few dynos, I'm still getting used to the Gtech, I don't like this unit, it does not do a very good job at scaling RPMs, but it says even with the RPMs of the peak hp rating will be correct... I'm guessing the torque numbers are what suffer. so this run had a peak hp of 130whp @4340, and a peak torque of 160ftlbs@4287, there were 2 other runs that I would consider close to accurate, one was 122whp & 140tq, and the other 133whp & 180tq. these runs were done on the same road in different directions or whatever.
All of the dyno graphs are shaped like this one with a huge dip in power between 3-4000 RPMs, I'm not sure what the issue is, I think it's fueling or something because there's definitely a dead spot in acceleration then the turbo lights off and goes from 10-20psi instantly and pulls hard to 4500-5k. but I have a few things I'm going to check before I speculate and gripe too much on here.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v306/Trev0rbr/1469153919321_zpsvjifdgyi.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Trev0rbr/media/1469153919321_zpsvjifdgyi.jpg.html)
I had 12v applied to it all the time, running straight off of the fuel stop solenoid, there was this drop in mid-range power and then the rapid gain.
im still not sure if it was the pump or the turbo, either a stuck wastegate or compressor surge. We will have a better idea once I get the new engine running but the new engine is pretty different because it will have a PD intake, 7mm valve stems, head porting, SDI camshaft, and an intercooler. plus it's a TDI so it's not an apples to apples comparison
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What I've been doing the last few years
(https://i.imgur.com/fHGDZCn.jpeg)
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That's really great. Have you switched to a 1Z motor? Or a hybrid? Something else?
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Hi, this is an AHU tdi. I bought a year or 2 before i killed the aaz, because i had little faith in myself or that engine haha. It has the same turbo as the last engine, and a few more upgrades, some of which were originally destined for the aaz before its compression dropped to zero.
i've been working on gathering up all my photos from this build and swap. It's been over the course of the last 5 years that i've put this together so the photos are on a few different phones.
I'll make a more detailed post soon. I miss the old forum days, its so much more organized and even acts as an online journal, it's a shame that fb has robbed most traffic, and photobucket has robbed many photos.
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Looks good. M-TDI FTW!
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I still plan to make a "mega post" to get everyone caught up ok the rest of what I've been up to with this car.
But for now we have the present.
I had been hoping to try to start this new engine this past weekend but I was having trouble getting it timed right.
Sylvain who built the pump told me to time it to 0.90mm and that I should be able to time it just like my old engines. When I timed it up the lowest I could get with the pump fully retarded was 1.20mm. So I tool the belt on and off a few times being meticulous to make sure I had the belt on perfectly.
The issue turned out to be that even though this pump was brand new from Sylvain it had sat for nearly 3 years and the advance piston was stuck. The solution was to remove the pump remove the advance piston covers and clean it out and get the pump moving again with lots of oil and seafood deep creep.
(https://i.imgur.com/UO9EE2J.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/lYLPpQc.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/jPXSfwC.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/wIixph1.jpeg)
And as a little homage to the old yellow dot pumps I painted the advance cover yellow.
I filled the pump with diesel purge and I will let it sit like this for a few days until I have time to get to it again.
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Nice that you found the problem. It would have been a bummer to have moved the belt a notch or two to get it at the 90 mm setting only to have the piston free up and drop your timing way back and possibly cause performance issues.
How did you ever chance upon the piston sticking? No response from the cold start cable?
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this pump doesn't have a cold start on it.
If I wasn't working with Sylvain i probably would have tried to start it with the pump retarded like you said. Before i removed the pump i did try cranking it over with the starter for 30-60seconds with 15-20 minute breaks in between and the piston never moved.
Sylvain was 100% certain that I should be able to time the pump like normal, and after reinstalling the belt 3 times, and then installing it 1 tooth off i was 100% certain that i was doing it right, so it had to be the advance piston.
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So the old engine, I had run way too hot the egt gauge looked like this :o :o :o :o :o
the first picture is a good spare AAZ head that I have, and how it looks without a prechamber installed:
(https://i.imgur.com/7JldHKJ.jpeg)
and next is my overheated AAZ head. I think part of the issue is that the engine ran away but i will admit that i also ran the engine much hotter than i should have, allowing it to reach over 1600* degrees with no intercooler. With a stock cranked pump that might be fine, but with a giles pump that delivers full fueling and timing advance it is definitely not fine. Before i even pulled the head i knew it was bad because when i removed the injector the injector hole and heatshield were completely covered in a wall of aluminum slag. the tips of all the glow plugs were burnt off.
(https://i.imgur.com/gIrSMUY.jpeg)
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CAR ABUSE. For Shame
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With the old aaz engine i knew that it was running too hot, and i was also having issues with losing power at high boost and low rpms. I believe the low rpm dip in power was caused by turbo compressor surge. Back when brexit was first enacted the british pound really took a dive so i bought a pd intake off of ebay.co.uk for cheap, i think it was less than 60usd shipped to my door, and it had been cleaned. So that should help to reduce compressor surge by increasing flow.
Then i bought an aftermarket toyota mr2 intercooler, to help lower my egt's and also improve flow which would also help to reduce compressor surge.
Unfortunately this engine had met its melty demise before i installed these parts. which is funny because they would have helped to prevent it.
PD intake after i did some light porting/port matching
(https://i.imgur.com/Cww7l78.jpeg)
me test fitting the mr2 intercooler with a 1g dodge neon non-ac radiator
(https://i.imgur.com/1ErlNYv.jpeg)
and here you can see the mr2 intercooler was a tight squeeze with the mk1 starter. a mk2 starter did create more room but ultimately i decided to swap to a renault double pass intercooler for easier fitment and plumbing. A single pass intercooler like the mr2 unit flows better and works better but i figured on an engine that is less than 200hp it will be sufficient, while also solving a few headaches. Although I may revisit the mr2 intercooler I think it could be made to fit.
(https://i.imgur.com/w8HpbKF.jpeg)
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And on to the work on the new engine. I think there is probably a better process for cleaning and painting an engine, but i just went for it with what i thought would work best. I cleaned it with dish soap and water and lots of scrubbing, then left it dry and hit it with a wire wheel on a grinder to remove rust and loose original paint. Then i cleaned it again with purple power and lots of scrubbing. And a final spray down with brake cleaner for more degreasing before i painted it. The surface wasn't perfect bare metal but it was free of oil as much as i could get it.
(https://i.imgur.com/HfIB0eo.jpg)(https://i.imgur.com/OKiKBgg.jpg)
Freshly painted with primer (https://www.eastwood.com/2k-aerospray-high-temp-engine-primer-gray.html) and Eastwood 2K AeroSpray High Temp Ceramic Engine Paint Gloss Red (https://www.eastwood.com/2k-aerospray-ht-ceramic-engine-paint-gloss-red.html)
This was a great product. I was a little upset because I followed the directions which said i had 24hrs to use the can once it was activated, and you can see in the later picture it came out like *** on my valve cover. Otherwise so far i love the product, easy to spray and the finish came out great. We'll see how it holds up once the engine is running.
(https://i.imgur.com/65s7Hbz.jpeg)
I didn't like all the baremetal around the crank breather/oil filter flange area and later on i brushed on paint to cover it up.
(https://i.imgur.com/sfufH4S.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ZJgW3Hy.jpg)
the old oil pan had a hole in it, so after painting I installed this brand new one with new hardware.
(https://i.imgur.com/qAYOFLN.jpg)
here is the valve cover that turned out like ***. I did clean off this paint and then buy another can and refinished it.
(https://i.imgur.com/BF1fNbU.jpg)
The benefit was that since I bought another can of paint I could paint another item. The master cylinder had been leaking so the original black paint had bubbled off of the brake booster. Now it matches the engine. The finish looks better in person, I think it was still wet in this picture so the orange peel finish looks worse than how it actually turned out.
(https://i.imgur.com/VExJTwA.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/N5sdBgH.jpeg)
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Here is my brake overhaul pictures. Not pictured I also repalced one of the rear trailing arm brake lines and a wheel cylinder... but thats basic stuff who cares?
My first time doing brake lines didn't turn out bad.
I replaced all the brake lines in the engine bay, and then replaced all the brake hoses with stainless steel hoses.
(https://i.imgur.com/CJUsXBA.jpeg)
I cleaned the brand new master cylinder and painted it with brake caliper paint
The fluid reservoir was ultra sonically cleaned in water/dish soap, turned out great!
These aftermarket master cylinders for the Westmoreland built Rabbits have a bad tendency to leak around the grommets where the reservoir barbs press in. That was the issue with the aftermarket master cylinder that I took out. So I did two things to combat it this time around. One was I put some heatshrink on the barbs to make them fatter and press out on the grommet more to create a better seal. Two was that I removed the grommets and cleaned everything well, then put "Seal-All" sealer around the outside of the grommets and pushed them into place. I haven't driven it yet but the car is full of fluid and the brakes were bled, with no leaks so far.
(https://i.imgur.com/O5glB0K.jpeg)
For the front brakes, I cleaned both front calipers/carriers and painted them with caliper paint. This was probably a waste of time as brand new painted calipers with new bushings aren't that expensive.
Then I installed new vented brembo rotors and mintex red pads.
(https://i.imgur.com/p3tttcX.jpeg)
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I am seeing RED, RED, and more RED! Maybe a fav color?
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i really don't like red that much :o :o :o
blue is my favorite color. i actually wanted the engine to be olds gold or buick red but they didn't have those colors in the rattle cans so i got plain red. I wanted red to match the interior a little bit, which is more of a maroon color, so the buick red would have been better.
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This covers the head porting and machine work. I really just stuck to the basics, like whats covered in the david vizard guide that's stickied somewhere on this forum. i went with a less is more, just cleaning things up type of attitude. Then had the exhaust valve guides replaced, 3 angle valve job on all the seats, 30 degree back cut on all the valves, and autotech hd dual valve springs installed.
(https://autotech.com/i-30497766-autotech-hd-valve-spring-set-8v-mk1-mk2-g60-mk3-8v-95-earlier-obd1.html)
Everything here is just a huge snowball effect over the last few years of me continually falling for the idea of "while you're in there."
i used this piece of cardboard to match the intake manifold to the intake ports. i didnt use the gasket because I didn't want to enlarge anymore than it took to make them match. In hindsight i probably would have been better off just using the gasket since it wasn't obnoxiously large and it would have made sure each port was the same shape.
(https://i.imgur.com/QUYszVD.jpg)
I colored marker around the intake ports so i could scribe around them for port matching. I used aluminum bits for grinding out the ports, and then finished with sandpaper the aluminum bits are very aggressive, I can see why many of the experts use double cut bits intended for grinding steel .
(https://i.imgur.com/64p2GI1.jpg)
The exhaust ports started like this, there was a fair amount of shift between the top and bottom of the port.
(https://i.imgur.com/IXLpAEu.jpg)
Here's a picture from the machine shop when they were done with the machine work. 3/4angle valve job, new exhaust guides, 30 degree back cut on all the valves, and assemble with autotech HD dual valve springs.
(https://i.imgur.com/M7muLhG.jpg)
here is the valve job. I forget whether it was the intakes or exhausts, but one of them needed an extra angle to make a smooth transition into the seat. So one set is 3 angles, and one set is 4 angles.
(https://i.imgur.com/dhM6yqv.jpg)
Here is a comparison of a backcut valve (left) and a non backcut valve(right). This helps to improve low lift flow, and makes the engine behave similarly as if it had a longer duration cam.
(https://i.imgur.com/JacGSRI.jpg)
Backcut valves ready for assembly.
(https://i.imgur.com/kQB2nk2.jpg)
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The redhead is dead and buried under the shed, said Fred.
Talk about grinding away at a project. You have definitely been doing that. Keep it going and I sure hope this makes it run like a rabbit.
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thanks, this has been over the course of the last 5 years, but especially the last 2 or 3. I didn't appreciate how much work I've put into it until i started uploading all these pictures.
i love the organization of these forums but i did get a new appreciation for all the newer social media apps. It is a lot of work to upload all the images and then format each post on here.
A few more posts and i'll be up to date here and all updates will be as I progress
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Here is the start of final assembly. I coated the headgasket in hylomar spray, which i had good luck with on my old AAZ engine. It made changing gaskets really nice as it doesn't stick surfaces as much and leave a crusty mess behind. I used stock head bolts because i am brave
(https://i.imgur.com/JwbIjKv.jpeg)
Timing belt cover trimmed to fit around the MK1 engine mount
(https://i.imgur.com/twtq4bO.jpeg)
This turbo has the same outside dimensions as a stock 1.6TD T3. Some grinding was required to fit this 50 trim t3 hybrid, a little bit from the intake, and a little bit from the compressor housing. I was even able to use part of the stock heatshield.
(https://i.imgur.com/POQRsGB.jpeg)
I cleaned and flattened out the turbo flange the best I could by using a file in an "X" pattern. I figured a little bit of this hi temp copper rtv stuff wouldn't hurt. You can see the heatshield here. To the bottom right of the heatshield you can see where one of the bosses had to be ground off to create clearance for the turbo.
(https://i.imgur.com/pd1wGxX.jpeg)
For the transmission I replaced both axle flange seals, and installed a Porsche magnetic drain plug. So now every seal on the transmission has been replaced by me at some point in the last 10 years.
(https://i.imgur.com/nH1xHeT.jpeg)
999-064-020-02 magnetic oil drain plug compatible with 020 transmissions.
(https://i.imgur.com/LZNLLYp.jpeg)
Cheap header wrap on the downpipe. Mostly for aesthetic reasons. It was not the prettiest part.
(https://i.imgur.com/ai5m8LA.jpeg)
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Here is the old AAZ block. Bolted to it is the same lightweight 210mm flywheel I am reusing on the new engine. It also has a California Clutch Yellow Pressure plate/disc combo for a mk1 GTI. The picture is to show how far off the timing marks are between a gas flywheel and a diesel. On the left is the original gas TDC mark I painted yellow and on the right is the yellow TDC mark I made myself with a dial gauge and scribed into the yellow paint. I dont understand why vw would use 2 different marks, I assume the crank bolts are what's different.
(https://i.imgur.com/VAsd3d1.jpg)
Here is the pressure plate I am using, I had to swap out the "back plate", or else it would be painted yellow as thats how California Clutch identifies the "stages" of their pressure plates. The picture is to how how it is triple strapped. If you are running any type of performance through an 020 clutch setup, it needs to at least have double straps. Even NA 16v engines can tear single straps. I tore one with the AAZ engine.
(https://i.imgur.com/GbaXOp2.jpg)
Here is the antique come along I used for removing and installing the engines. It attached to eye bolt rated for 7,000 lbs or something ridiculous like that. The bolt is then attached to a 5ft piece of lintel in the attic, and that lays across 4 trusses that can each support 800lbs in their centers. So these engines are no problem.
(https://i.imgur.com/csVEeTW.jpg)
Everything bolted together and ready to go in the Rabbit. Please pray for my 020 transmission.
(https://i.imgur.com/G25vxA6.jpg)
Installed new nitrided lifters, these are for PD engines but will work in any of the hydraulic lifter VW diesel engines. I removed the small internal springs as recommended in this video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ty-sdftGx40).
(https://i.imgur.com/oqn8nBL.jpg)
I bought this SDI cam as a mild upgraded for this engine. When I installed it I noticed it had what looked like pitting on the tip of the lobes. I thought perhaps it was fine and just some pits left behind from air in the casting process. Advice from others, and me not wanting to make a bet on the life of this engine led me to buy a Frank06 performance camshaft instead.
(https://i.imgur.com/PJPXpwG.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/gpC8ZqC.jpg)
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I decided to use a 1g Dodge Neon radiator because it's much smaller, and this made it so there is enough room behind the condenser for me to have a radiator and intercooler side by side. So of course I had to make a fan shroud, from an old battery charger case. Fan is an 11" SPAL unit, biggest one I could fit. Hopefully the better fan makes up for the smaller radiator.
(https://i.imgur.com/uLz0Q40.jpeg)
the house outlets on this rtadiator are close enough to where the original radiators landed that i can use the original vw radiator hoses.
(https://i.imgur.com/iglK568.jpeg)
Fan mounted with a bank of relays for the fans and AC compressor control.
(https://i.imgur.com/sxzlBlm.jpeg)
Test fitting with the new shroud on, and everything fits perfectly, as if VW intended it.
(https://i.imgur.com/CX8pXMX.jpeg)
Here is the intercooler I am swapping to, it's a dual pass, and an ebay special both of which are not ideal but the form factor solved a lot of headaches for me when it comes to intercooler plumbing. I wont be using that battery, but I will be swapping to one a similar size, this clears up a lot of room for the intercooler.
(https://i.imgur.com/gkwIfvA.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/KlVawSI.jpeg)
I added a small fan to the intercooler because it sits behind the condenser and I would still like to have working AC. I still need to build a small bracket for the intercooler to sit on.
(https://i.imgur.com/kRyKO83.jpeg)
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OK< link for the intercooler. I would consider one on the other side of my current radiator as it would not have hot air coming through the radiator first. Oh, and Price, is always the important deciding factor when buying an add-on product. NOT! But I would like to know if it is not in the link you provide.
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Neither of these links are the same seller that i bought from, that ad is down now.
This one is like the one i bought, it has the better flowin intercooler core with the wider bars, and this style is recommended for performance. The downside I noticed when i actually received it is that there is an odd number of "bars" passage ways, so one side has 6 bars, and the other has 5 bars. For me i think that is not ideal, but the side with 6 bars is the "in" hot side of the intercooler so it makes more sense to have more bars there, since as the air cools it will "shrink" and then go through the 5 bar side of the intercooler.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/275724782222?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=gl8HY6XFTRq&sssrc=2047675&ssuid=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY (https://www.ebay.com/itm/275724782222?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=gl8HY6XFTRq&sssrc=2047675&ssuid=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY)
This one has as an even number of flow paths, so the in and out have the same number. It is also cheaper, so there are a few factors to consider when buying one of these. IMO any intercooler is better than no intercooler and even a high hp tdi is~300hp so i dont think there is a great intercooler requirement.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/145239543661?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=txnvxvwntso&sssrc=2047675&ssuid=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
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Have you ever tried using a second radiator for an intercooler? I have one and got to thinking, that will cool the air and I am not looking for performance as much as just a little bit of heat taken out of the injected air. Flow seems to be good enough with a 2-inch pipe inlet.
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i have never done that. I don't see why you would because you can intercoolers in any size you want these days for pretty good prices.
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I would like to try it because 1. I have the radiator and don't have a good-fitting intercooler. I need one of those small ones with piping that comes and goes out the top. I am more interested in trying it than spending money on the parts.
OK, I will say it. I am frugal/ cheap when it comes to trying things like this.
I did just score a boost/EGT gauge that is from an airplane that should have cost me around 300 dollars and I only spent 50 for it. So maybe spend some of that savings on a good intercooler?
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haha yeah thats one way to justify it