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Engine Specific Info and Questions => Diesel Swaps => Topic started by: 410 on April 21, 2010, 11:09:14 pm
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I've been holding off posting this until I actually had some real progress to talk about, but this evening I actually starting the install. I have been driving my toyota 4wd pickup for over a year now with my mtdi. I was running a k14 turbo with no intercooler. This setup has worked quite well with very little turbo lag. Performance in the summer has been less than perfect though because of the lack of intercooler. I just finished installing a front mount intercooler and a gt1749va turbo off of a 2005 passat 130pd. Everything is done except the final exhaust hookup. I have a lot of adjusting of my mechanical vane control and that's pretty much it. I'll get some pics up as soon as I get a chance but for now I just want to get driving this thing again as my daily driver.(http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af74/410_photo/IMG_1223.jpg)
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More progress; It took no time to adjust the vane control and got the exhaust reconnected. Man what a difference! It pulls much harder than it did before the new turbo and intercooler. I took it fairly easy on the first test drives but I got a chance to really load it up today.
Here's where the bad news starts. I was revving at about 1800rpm no load in fourth and I floored it. When the boost kicked in, which is almost instantly, it revved up to 2500 rpm instantly. I then backed out of the throttle a bit and the revs dropped back down to about 2100 rpm. My stock clutch cannot hold my new found power. Looking back a year, I should have spent a little more time researching clutches and bought something that can handle the torque. I found a company called marlin crawler which specializes in toyota's and they offer basically a clutch for every application at great prices. The price I paid for my stock clutch would have covered the cost of their super heavy duty clutch. Live and learn I guess.
I hope to get pics tomorrow so I can share my vnt control setup and all the parts I made to make this work. I was able to get some numbers, boost was peaking at about 23psi, 24 max and settling at around 22. Peak exhaust pressure was about 35 psi and dropping very quickly to less than 30 once the boost can started to open up the vanes a bit. I'm really happy with those numbers.
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This is very exciting; I want to do this setup in the future. I'd like to see how you engineered your linkage(s). Keep us updated please.
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I didn't get a chance to do pics today since I was too busy working on the pump, but I thought I would try and describe my vnt control.
Basically it consists of 2 levers. The first lever pivot is mounted solid to a bracket on the turbo. The boost can is connected to the one end of this lever and the other end is the pivot for the second lever. This second lever is connected to the vane control and throttle.
Basically, it uses the same principle as libbybapa's setup by moving the pivot of the lever with the boost can. I found that adding the extra lever to move the pivot got rid of a lot of slop in the system. I keep promising pics and they are coming, as soon as I can get my stuff together!
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Lets try that again.(http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af74/410_photo/vntturbo006.jpg)
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Holy cow it worked! :o
(http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af74/410_photo/vntturbo004.jpg)
This picture shows the connection to the injection pump. The spring shock is to prevent the wastegate from locking the injection pump to wide open throttle. The pump lever can return to idle at anytime. The shaft that connects the shock to the rod that runs to the turbo is supported by two small ball bearings.
(http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af74/410_photo/vntturbo001.jpg)
I built my own wastegate and modified the aaz intake inlet by welding up the sealing surface and porting out the inside of the inlet. I found that the inlet was the most restrictive part of the intake. I made my own flange to match the larger opening and used a 90 degree 2.25" silicone bend to finish it off. It's all 2.25" piping.
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Your hardware looks serious :D
Too bad about the clutch.... is it stock for Toyota?
If you hit {enter} before and after pasting the IMG code, the pics wont wander all over the screen.
I'm looking forward to an engine bay overview shot
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The clutch was identical to what the truck came with from the factory. Aisin or something like that. And it was new. I ordered a super heavyduty clutch from marlin crawler on Monday so it might be here Friday, but probably Monday. According to them the stock pressure plate has 900 lb of clamping force and the one I ordered has 1600 lb of clamping force. Cheap too at $200.
I apparently didn't take a pic of the whole engine bay so I'll see what I can do today. Thanks for the tip on hitting enter before and after adding links. I'm just starting to get the hang of this computer!
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If this linkage works as good as it looks, works as well as it appears to be built well then I think 410 might be the new king of the mechanical VNT control. On boost throw length adjustment looks great. Very nice adaptation of the original concept (ahem... ;)).
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Really nice, just wonder why a spark plug coil is there on the first pic ? :o
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Good eye on the ignition coil. Its only purpose now is to operate my tach. I could've bought a dakota signal amplifier but this method was free. If you look closer you'll notice that the coil wire goes right to ground.
(http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af74/410_photo/vntturbo009.jpg)
The hose curling around the air intake is the high pressure power steering hose. It's in its most comfortable position at the moment.
The boost is just a little too high for me right now so I plan on extending the bottom of the wastegate housing and adding a threaded rod to adjust the compression of the spring inside. I'd like to be at 22 psi tops and I'm just a pinch over at 24 psi.
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Could you post some more pics of the vnt controller? Specifically the pump top pivot and the attached to the vane control lever right at the turbo? Very nice build by the way. :)
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Thanks for all the comments guys. This vnt setup has been a work in progress for over six months now. I've made countless different levers and rods trying to find something that works. Most of the adjustments on my current setup were just to give me room for the initial setup and will now stay in those positions. I'll try and get more pics today.
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Here's the connection to the turbo, nothing exciting to see here. I used the stock retaining clip on my fabricated aluminum rod.
(http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af74/410_photo/vntturbo048.jpg)
And here's the bracket bolted to the top of the injection pump. The top lever isn't splined or keyed, just clamped so it can be in placed in any position. The bracket has two small bearings to support the shaft which I made out of a bolt and machined the threads off the end.
(http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af74/410_photo/vntturbo049.jpg)
My next challenge like I mentioned in my previous post is making my wastegate adjustable.
(http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af74/410_photo/vntturbo052.jpg)
I plan on making a new bottom piece that's about a half an inch deeper. I machined a 'tophat' which will support the bottom of the spring in the wastgate that can be adjusted by a bolt that threads into the new housing. Here's a pic of the 'tophat' with a 3/8" fine threaded bolt.
(http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af74/410_photo/vntturbo053.jpg)
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I love it!
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:) very nice installation :) Whats the air filter box ? is the coil getting a signal from a crank sensor ?
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The air filter box is from the original motor, 22re. I put an air restriction meter on it from a ford diesel and I'm constantly setting it off. I put a k&n air filter in it but it still doesn't flow enough. I do like how quiet it is though. I don't hear any intake noise really. I would like something quiet but flows more air ideally. Maybe a tdi airbox or possibly one from a toyota v6.
I did add a crank sensor to it. It's a pickup off of a small engine. It actually fit perfectly in a slot on the timing belt cover beside the crank pulley on the passenger side of the engine. I ground down a small lip on the back side of the harmonic and left two tabs 180 degrees apart. The tach works perfectly with no bounce at all. I'll take a pic if I get a chance.
No clutch yet. I thought I would have it by now. Oh well. :-\ I can't wait to get this thing back on the road!
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Clutch showed up today! but it's not the one I wanted. The company I ordered the clutch from offers two choices, a heavyduty clutch with a 1200 lb pressure plate or a super heavyduty with a 1600 lb pressure plate. I wanted the super model but ended up with the 1200 lb pressure plate. Stock is 900 lb.
After some thought I've decided to try the clutch I received for a couple of reasons. First of all, it's here and I want to drive my truck asap! I also think this clutch works better for the "daily driver". The better half likes to use the truck as well so a lighter pedal feel might be in order anyway. We'll see what happens this weekend. If this clutch can hold the power I'll be a very happy camper. If it doesn't, there is still a stronger clutch out there. ;)
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I installed the new clutch today. The old one still looked pretty good. Hardly any signs of wear. It just couldn't hold the power. I removed the flywheel just to make sure my rear main seal isn't leaking and I also took some sandpaper to the flywheel clutch surface. The flywheel is still in great shape with no heat marks or imperfections. Everything was degreased, installed and reassembled.
Time for the test drive. Everything felt pretty good at first, excellent pedal feel with just a little more effert than the stock clutch. Once the engine was warmed up I started putting the power down and sure enough, this brand new heavyduty clutch cannot hold the power either! :o I am amazed at how much more power this truck is making now. I could back the power off and run this clutch but I won't. I have to try the super heavyduty clutch. If the next clutch doesn't hold, which I highly doubt, I will back off the power slightly.
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ive just bort a hilux with seazed engine, how did you get the engine to mate up to the gear box? is it AUTO?
i would love to do this convo, how how how did you do this? was it hard?
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ive just bort a hilux with seazed engine, how did you get the engine to mate up to the gear box? is it AUTO?
i would love to do this convo, how how how did you do this? was it hard?
adapter plate, redrill the fly wheel/backing plate , and lots more not a 2 minnit job
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I don't fully comprehend the tranny adapter plate but is it possible that the flywheel is too far from the pressure plate and it is not able to fully clamp down?
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Hey Tyler, The pressure plate is bolted to the flywheel and is basically the stock toyota setup.
I bought the adapter plate and flywheel from acme adapters. The flywheel they give you is for a toyota pickup. They do two minor mods; first they bore out the center of the flywheel to fit on the vw crank. New holes are also drilled to bolt it up to the vw crank. The last thing they give you is a oillite bushing that fits into the vw crank for your pilot bearing.
I have been driving it lately with the clutch I installed a couple weeks ago and it is starting to hold a little better. But it is still slipping a little under heavy loads. This motor is just making huge torque now compared to the k14 turbo it had before. I had the back end break loose on me in a corner in third gear just the other day and I can spin the tires on a straight stretch in second just by flooring it. The new cluch should be here tomorrow or Thursday.
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I have an older 1.9TD hooked up to a Toyota tranny in a sidekick.
I've had great luck with the HD clutch from crappy tire.
The stock pressure plate wasn't enough for the torque.
Can I ask where and how much you VNT 17 was?
I also am running a K14 currently. Started with a K03.
The power band is just to short .
What RPM is it at when boost hits 20psi?
What's your max boost you currently run?
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ive just bort a hilux with seazed engine, how did you get the engine to mate up to the gear box? is it AUTO?
i would love to do this convo, how how how did you do this? was it hard?
Good tread for it here.
http://yotatech.com/f162/vw-diesel-build-up-135203/ (http://yotatech.com/f162/vw-diesel-build-up-135203/)
I made two adaptor plates myself. I have a AAZ to a toyota trans. There is some missing info, in the above link. I have it all incase someone wanted to make there own adaptor (all adaptor prints, pilot bushing print, and flywheel). My adaptor plate also goes all the way to the bottom of the toyota bell for added beef. After making it all, and seeing how easy it is to do I wouldn't spend that much on a kit. But I also have access to machine shops.
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My stock clutch was fine when I had the k14, even at 18 psi. For the new turbo I placed an add here and tdiclub.com and had responses in less than a day. I had one guy respond from Ontario who had two of them in mint shape. I payed 400ca plus shipping which I thought was fair.
-20 psi of boost comes in at 2000 rpm.
-23 psi is max at wot.
My boost while cruising has dropped as well. I'm at about 2-3 psi cruising on level ground at 90-100km. As soon as I hit an incline boost starts climbing to about 10 psi.
When I bought my adapter plate kit I wasn't aware of guys making their own. I was happy with the price I paid since I don't have access to a machine shop capable of building these parts accurately. With shipping, tax, it cost me 695 ca.
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Well, the new super heavyduty clutch got installed today. This one holds the power with ease. The pedal feel is stiffer and grabs fairly low in the pedal travel. The clutch I took out felt nicer than this one but I guess there is always a comprimise when increasing power levels. Peak torque is between 2000-2500 rpm. I wonder what a ceramic disc would feel like with the heavyduty pressure plate?
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Glad to hear you found a clutch that works. Looks like you can start adding more power now.
Thanks for explaining your adapter plate, it makes sense now.
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Adding more power? That is the general way of thinking but I'm quite happy with the current power output. More power would really start stressing things badly as I just can't help myself when it comes to the go pedal. I've got a few more miles on it now with the new clutch and it is feeling really good. It's so nice to be driving this thing again as my daily driver.
I plan on just driving the truck for now but down the road I have a couple things I'd like to change or upgrade. The fuel line from the tank is a 5/16" steel line which I plan on going with 3/8" line. I also need a better lift pump.
My exhaust also needs some help. I never had room for larger than stock exhaust coming off the turbo when the k14 was installed but fortunately the new vnt outlet gave me about an extra inch of room between the downpipe and the firewall. I'll order up a couple 2.5" mandrel bends and make a nice downpipe to compliment the vnt.
31" tires coming soon as well. :)
I'd sure like to be running a pump from you guys Burn but My own budget pump will have to do for now.
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When I bought my adapter plate kit I wasn't aware of guys making their own. I was happy with the price I paid since I don't have access to a machine shop capable of building these parts accurately. With shipping, tax, it cost me 695 ca.
Judging by your fab skills with the VNT mechanical actuator I think an adapter wouldn't have been out of the reach for you but buying when you can is nice.
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I like it. I just picked up an AHU for my 1983 toyota 4x4 pickup. I need to finish my caddy then I will be working on it.
Keep up the good work.
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Now that I have a few miles on this setup, I'm starting to have some minor issues. My vanes in the turbo are already getting a little sticky and it's affecting my vane control setup. I think that the vanes are open too much in part throttle conditions causing soot to build up on the vanes.
I noticed about a week ago that when the engine is cold I would hit a stiff spot in the throttle. Once I got past this spot, things would loosen up but it has progressively gotten worse. This extra stiffness is also causing a greater boost spike. When I first installed the setup I had no more than 1 psi of boost spike at full load but now it's up to 5psi.
So, I plan on trying two things to remedy this. First I will remove the turbo, clean it out and get things moving freely again. Second, I will adjust the vane control to function from half open to closed when the thottle is moved from idle to full load. Currently the vanes are fully open at idle and fully closed at full load. Third, I will build another boost control device with a larger dia. cylinder so it will be able to exert more force on the vanes to back them off once boost builds. This is what its all about! Add something new and play with it 'til your happy with it.
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Good to hear all the results of you work.
Would you mind taking pictures of your turbo setup and vane controller?
Also if yo could explain how you built your vane control and what parts you used and where you got them?
Thanks a lot for sharing your build and all your results, good and bad.
Derek
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please tell me you ditched the stock toyota air box by now? the MAF is so tiny inside. why make your turbo work for its air?
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Hey 4wheeler, If you check out the beginning of this thread I think you'll find all the pics your asking for. I made all these parts myself. The levers and some brackets are made from 1/4" aluminium plate. The wastegate I built myself out of exhaust pipe and sheet metal.
Rabbit on Roids, sadly I have not replaced the stock airbox. The mass airflow is gutted but you are right. My poor turbo is sucking its air in thru a straw. I had a look at an air cleaner setup for the 3.0l v6 toyota and it isn't much better than what I have. I would like the stock airbox from a tdi ideally. I don't want an open element like a cone filter because the intake noise would drive me crazy. Any other suggestions are always appreciated.
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Hey 4wheeler, If you check out the beginning of this thread I think you'll find all the pics your asking for. I made all these parts myself. The levers and some brackets are made from 1/4" aluminium plate. The wastegate I built myself out of exhaust pipe and sheet metal.
Rabbit on Roids, sadly I have not replaced the stock airbox. The mass airflow is gutted but you are right. My poor turbo is sucking its air in thru a straw. I had a look at an air cleaner setup for the 3.0l v6 toyota and it isn't much better than what I have. I would like the stock airbox from a tdi ideally. I don't want an open element like a cone filter because the intake noise would drive me crazy. Any other suggestions are always appreciated.
You seem to know your stuff, so why not build a aluminum enclosure for an open element cone filter that uses the hood to seal the top, and draws air from the stock location. Of course enlarge the hole so more flow will be achieved.
Just a suggestion.
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Well, I may know some stuff, but I am still working on my vnt control. As far as I'm concerned it's still a work in progress. Dh13, the only issue I have with an air filter system as you suggested is the noise. I have been spoiled by the lack of intake noise with the stock airbox. I removed one baffle in the stock airbox to increase airflow and ended up reinstalling it an hour later because of the noise increase. I think I will try a stock airbox from a tdi. When I'm at that point I'll post a wtb on here or tdiclub. I'm sure there is someone out there that installed an aftermarket air cleaner system on their tdi and has the stock airbox just sitting around taking up space.
I have finished building a new wastegate for my setup. I used an lda diaphram and top cover and built my own base. I have also redesigned all the pivots to remove excess play. I haven't had achance to install anything yet but hopefully soon. I'll post pics asap.
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I'm interested in a VW diesel powered 4runner one of these days, just have a few things in front of it.
For an intercooler, I wanted to show you what I did... My 4runner is a non-factory turbo (megaquirt EFI). Like you, I ran w/o an intercooler for a while, but saw huge intake temps. I have A/C, so there is no real easy way to stuff an IC behind the grill and I didn't want to expose an IC on my front bumper.
As such, I built a scoop and hid the IC in the factory skid plate:
(http://lakebox.dnsalias.com/photos/1988%204runner/intercooler/med/DSC06496.JPG)
(http://lakebox.dnsalias.com/photos/1988%204runner/intercooler/med/DSC06767.JPG)
(http://lakebox.dnsalias.com/photos/1988%204runner/intercooler/med/DSC06765.JPG)
Obviously, not a real good thing if you were doing deep mud, but the truck is too nice for me to doing that sort of stuff these days...
I get an intake temp drop of 60-90 degrees with this setup above about 25 mph.
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the air box really isnt bad, but the MAF sensor is horribly restrictive.. just make up an adapter to make the intake piping mount directly to the air box, rather than keeping the mass air sensor there to restrict the intake.
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Nice set up! I am in the middle of puting a VNT17/22 on my MTDI and I really like your VNT controll. What would be the disadvantage of going directly to the vane lever with the boost can and eliminating the second lever?
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I am considering an alh swap into a 4 runner. I have the engine ecu and harness. Found the 4 runner just need to do more research on what trans to use. I want an auto if possible. I think you have a very nice set up. I love toyota trucks and I love vw diesels.
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DO NOT use the toyota A340 transmission, they will not handle the torque. they normally last 100k miles behind a V6, and they dont have near the torque of a diesel..
toyota 5 speeds are darn near indestructible.. the 4 banger units (W&G 56) are slightly weaker than the V6 trans (R150). you can put whatever you want in front of an R150 in a toyota.. it wont break, unless you can get the tires to hook up.
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I love my 5 speed transmission. It makes the truck so much fun to drive. I'm not familiar with the toyota automatics, but a rebuild every 100k doesn't sound too bad if you really want an auto. There's a similar truck in my town with an auto and the 22re. I found it to be quite gutless compared to mine when I still had the 22re. The autos do seem to rob a lot of power.
I have ditched my airbox temporarily to try a tube style filter hooked up directly to the turbo inlet. This setup is much quieter than I had anticipated. Only slightly more noise under heavy load. Very tolerable. Spool up times improved slightly but the biggest difference I noticed was less surging. I've been able to turn up the boost a little more because of this. I am pulling in slightly hotter air but my underhood temps are not all that bad.
I also bought some new tires. 31x10.5x15 Safari TSR. They are made by Kelly Springfield. The diesel turns these with no trouble at all.
I'm now waiting for some mandrel bends to build a new downpipe. My current downpipe is a modified one from an AAZ.
Thanks for all the comments guys. This truck has been a big project and is still ongoing.
Pics coming when I get a chance.
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New tires!
(http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af74/410_photo/Newrubber.jpg)
With a close up of the tread pattern.
(http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af74/410_photo/Newtires.jpg)
And my new air filter.
(http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af74/410_photo/Newairfilter.jpg)
You can also see the change I made to the boost can for more adjustment.
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that air filter needs to be bigger..
(http://i702.photobucket.com/albums/ww28/Dubsmoke/New%20Rabbit/P1000412.jpg)
not saying mine is the optimal setup, but bigger is better with a turbo intake..
last time i upgraded my turbo intake, i saw quicker spool times, and 4 more psi on the top end.
that thing looks like a lawn mower air filter. or a hot tub pump filter..
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There is quite a bit of filter area on this filter. I might set up my filter gauge on it and see if I am still pulling a vaccum on the suction side. As far as I'm concerned that's the only way to tell. I had plans to install a tdi factory airbox but I'm pretty happy with this. If I am pulling a restriction then I will consider a larger cone style filter.
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a TDI air box, or DIGIFANT air box would work just fine. assuming you make the bottom half flow as good as the top half..
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Ahh, nice to have gtd up and running again! I'm still trying to improve my vnt control and right now my current homemade wastegate is not cutting it. It's too slow to react to pressure changes so I built another one using lda parts.
(http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af74/410_photo/september2010095.jpg)
(http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af74/410_photo/september2010096.jpg)
Hopefully this will work much better. I should have it installed in a week or so.
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Nice job on the swap and vnt control!
I'm just curious what machinery you have access to. Specifically machine tools.
Sure makes a more finished look when you can use a cnc mill for profiling flanges etc....
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I actually made everything by hand. The more complicated parts were done on a lathe. I only recently gained access to a lathe. I wish I had access to a cnc machine but the nearest one is probably in Edmonton which is four hours away. And I can't afford to pay someone to do this stuff for me either. A major goal of this whole project was to keep costs to a minimum. But once it's all said and done I still spent about $7000 including the cost of buying the truck in the first place.
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Oh, well my bad. Just assumed you had access to a cnc mill...
That's doin pretty good budget wise!
Youre gonna get us some more pics of the installed wastegate actuator right?
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410 nice conversion! as far as TDI conversions it is one of the most practical IMO.
What kind of miles per gallon of diesel do you get - in town and on highway?
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I'm floating right around 30mpg with city/highway combined. I probably could get better mpg if I tried but I just love feeling the torque of this thing. The way I have the pump set up the power just turns on like a switch at about 2000rpm. I own a dodge truck with a cummins and a 2003 jetta wagon as well but neither beats the toyota on the fun factor.
My next goal is building my own adapter plate. I plan on spacing the motor ahead another inch and incorporating it into the adapter plate itself and also using a 1" spacer on the crank. I have completed the crank spacer and sourced longer bolts, just need to finish the plate itself.
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Is there any way you could post some more information on how you mounted your turbo?
Thanks
Dan
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Is there any way you could post some more information on how you mounted your turbo?
Thanks
Dan
You bet. I'm actually in the middle of preparing more upgrades to the truck. I'm at my folks place right now but once I get home I have some new pics to post and info on what I have planned for this winter.
To sum it up, I bought another turbo, a gt2256vk. An exhaust manifold off of a b5.5 passat and 3" exhaust should compliment this turbo nicely. I also purchased a methanol injection pump with nozzles just for fun! 8)
So once I start the teardown it will give me a chance to take some pictures of the adapter plates I made to make the first turbo work. I've learned to take more pictures while building these projects because once it is all together it's hard to explain what I had to do to make it work. And everyone loves pictures of course.
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Sounds like a plan. Thanks.
I am just trying to decide on a turbo as of right now. I want something vnt but I do not know a whole lot about them, so I am doing a little research to gather some information on them.
Did the gt1749va not work out so well for you?
And yes, pictures are worth a 1000 words.. lol ;D
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Hey Dan, Honestly I thought I was having problems with the gt1749va turbo. It turned out to be a fuel supply issue. But in the meantime I came accross this turbo from a mercedes sprinter for next to nothing so I couldn't turn it down. The gt1749va is awesome and might end up putting it back on in the end, we'll see.
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I see. Basically I am pretty sure my setup is going to be about the same as yours is. I have a ahu, landy m-tdi 11mm pump, fmic. I need to figure out my turbo and injector combo. I plan on running 2.5 inch straight exhaust, but maybe 3 inch.
I am still trying to figure out my vnt controller. I have tons of ideas, although I am thinking about writing a program to control it. Well I shouldn't say I am, but I know some people from my school that could wip up one pretty quick. But my fall back plan will be mechanical as yours is.
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But in the meantime I came accross this turbo from a mercedes sprinter for next to nothing so I couldn't turn it down. The gt1749va is awesome and might end up putting it back on in the end, we'll see.
DIBS on the MERC turbo if you do go back to the 1749va... Yep I am a buzzard.
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If I don't keep the Merc turbo I have a buddy locally that wants me to build him a complete setup. He's got a 2000 golf tdi. But I'll keep you in mind theman53.
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Awesome job on the Toyota. I just finished a Samurai with Toyota running gear and a M-TDI. My question, I noticed the power steering pump is on the passenger side of your TDI...what bracket and pump did you use? Do you have any photos?
Thanks in advance
Eric
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I built the bracket myself using 1/4" steel plate and 1/2" steel tubing. It's the factory toyota power steering pump and tensioner pulley assembly. The factory high pressure hose was also long enough to reach the pump in its new location without modifying it. I don't know if I have any good pics of it but I'll look.
This truck has recently been put on the back burner since I just bought a 2003 dodge diesel. New toy. I might even sell the toyota, who knows, haven't quite decided yet.
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What about that sprinter turbo??? :D
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Wow, you're quick man! I have a local guy interested in it for his 2000 golf but your definitely first in line after that since you told me you wanted it months ago.
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Thank you for the info. Glad to hear you got a new toy, but that Toyota is just plain awesome.
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Thank you for the info. Glad to hear you got a new toy, but that Toyota is just plain awesome.
Thanks man, I put a lot of time and energy into this thing. It's just an absolute blast to drive even compared to my new truck. Owning two trucks doesn't make sense anymore so I'm going to let someone else enjoy it.
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Why does all the good stuff have to be in Canada? :'(
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Well, I sold my toyota, :'(. It was fun while it lasted. Thanks for all the support guys, it's been fun. I'm already thinking of a new project but who knows if I'll ever have the time. What do you guys think of an older toyota celica, supra, or mr2 with an ahu and vnt 20?
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...and the turbo :D?
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An older supra would be cool, but I think I will do a 73-78 Datsun Z car...tons of room under the hood.
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What do you guys think of an older toyota celica, supra, or mr2 with an ahu and vnt 20?
This please
(http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_images/3/1987/1601/29965800002_large.jpg)
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What do you guys think of an older toyota celica, supra, or mr2 with an ahu and vnt 20?
This please
(http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_images/3/1987/1601/29965800002_large.jpg)
Wow! Look at the size of that intercooler! What kind of car is this?
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looks like a datsun 120 series
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Toyota Celica 1st gen?
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70-77 Celica, AKA Baby Camaro.
build
http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?439919-ever-see-a-2jz-1977-celica-supra
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Thought I would upload a recent under hood shot of this truck. It's running better than ever with an 1856 turbo from a jeep liberty and a pd130 intake.
(http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m488/410-photos/IMG_0381_zpse0696380.jpg) (http://s1128.photobucket.com/user/410-photos/media/IMG_0381_zpse0696380.jpg.html)
Just came in for some maintenance.
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You got snow there in September?!?
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You got snow there in September?!?
That is why they call it the great white north Eh? LOL
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I was wondering if someone would catch the snow in the pic. The picture was taken in the spring but the truck is in town for maintenance. If I could just remember to bring my camera to work I could get a more recent shot.