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Engine Specific Info and Questions => Non VW Group Diesel => Topic started by: steevz on November 13, 2012, 10:23:00 pm
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Super excited.
Little cab over engine 4 cylinder diesel. 2 ton bed cap. and hydraulic dumper.
$1500! Only 120k kms on the engine, only needs a new tire and side windows... (as someone tried stealing it)
Will post pics on my new truck asap.
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http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&ved=0CEsQFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fen.wikipedia.org%2Fwiki%2FMazda_Titan&ei=lxCjUJrSLYesjAL-7YDoCA&usg=AFQjCNGUg0r5ajeH6tUeMDYXnmbxKTwZEQ
Looks like fun.
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That's a pretty sweet looking truck!
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Another thing you Canucks got that we didn't.
I am really pissed that my Dad didn't have to uproot all of us in '72 so that I could dodge the draft....
I would be retired now with free health care (OK- I know it's not free, but I wouldn't need to shell out $15K for years until what's left of Medicare kicks in)
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I have a REAL problem. I two new tires to replace the flat rears on the driver side. The inner rear is seized to the hub it seems.. pulling it with rope attached to my TDI span the truck a bit but didnt free the wheel. I'm running out of ideas.. really need to get it off, so I can get two new tires on then drive and get the other two replaced.
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Can u drive it with just a good outer? (Ain't that part of the logic of duallies?)
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(http://omgghana.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/10/hammer.jpg)
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(http://omgghana.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/10/hammer.jpg)
apply liberally to the affected area in larger doses until desired result is achieved.
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lol,
Tried that.. as I really dont care about the one rim. I also was doing donuts with all the weight on that wheel and the lugs cracked loose.. nothing. It was getting late and dark last night.. will try it again today.. in the light.
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Torch and penetrating oil, esp at the centering ring area.
Can u drive it with just a good outer? (Ain't that part of the logic of duallies?)
No, when the inner blows apart, it will waste your brake lines, and possibly take out the good outer.
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yeah, the inner wheel holds air fine so I just put the new tires on both the other wheels. Once I get to work I'll heat it up and I'm sure they'll come right off.
(http://i46.tinypic.com/124c8dc.jpg)
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does it have BUDD wheels?
BUDD wheels have a lug nut on the outside, then a big lug nut (BUDD) on the inner wheel as well
you cant get budd wheels off without removing the budds..
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I bet it has Budd wheels, or at least something similar to that.
When you take the wheel lugs nuts off, does the stud underneath have a square end or a hex head? If it has that, it has Budd wheels, you may need a special socket for that particular size to turn the stud. It's actually like a two part stud, with an inner stud attached to the wheel hub and an outer one that has a flange to hold the inner wheel, and is threaded internally (to go over the other stud) and externally (for the outer wheel nut). That's how the Budd wheels work.
Are these highway legal in Canada?
Anyway, if I were you, I would also look into the possibility running "super singles" on the rear and eliminating the dual rear wheels. I can't imagine this thing is going to carry that much weight.
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I bet it has Budd wheels, or at least something similar to that.
When you take the wheel lugs nuts off, does the stud underneath have a square end or a hex head? If it has that, it has Budd wheels, you may need a special socket for that particular size to turn the stud. It's actually like a two part stud, with an inner stud attached to the wheel hub and an outer one that has a flange to hold the inner wheel, and is threaded internally (to go over the other stud) and externally (for the outer wheel nut). That's how the Budd wheels work.
Are these highway legal in Canada?
Anyway, if I were you, I would also look into the possibility running "super singles" on the rear and eliminating the dual rear wheels. I can't imagine this thing is going to carry that much weight.
super singles are AWESOME...
thanks for the explanation about Budds.. i couldnt have said it better.
one thing to remember, is that sometimes, the budd has RH threads on the outside, and LH threads on the inside, IIRC..
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Driver side might also be LH and passenger side RH. I think I got that right...
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Driver side might also be LH and passenger side RH. I think I got that right...
completely possible, our 63 Olds F85 is that way..
i know its like comparing oranges to hammers, but same idea..
and yes, you are right.. drivers side takes reverse threads..
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Driver side might also be LH and passenger side RH. I think I got that right...
completely possible, our 63 Olds F85 is that way..
i know its like comparing oranges to hammers, but same idea..
and yes, you are right.. drivers side takes reverse threads..
You got the threads spot on.. passenger is RH thread.. driver LH. I don't think it's got BUDDs.. all rims are exactly the same...and you can see the entire hole from the inner rim.. it just won't break free.. but the outter came over very easily... so maybe I have to take a second look. The lugs are huge... 14" rim with 1 3/8" OR 36mm lug nuts.
Super singles.. what are those? Will look into it.
Thanks.
Yes it's street legal in Canada.
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"Super singles" refers to the practice of replacing a dual wheel setup with a single wheel. Usually oversize, extra wide tires are used. The trucking industry has started doing this more and more, because single tire axles have less rolling resistance, less mass and are easier to maintain, though wear on the tire increases and weight capacity is slightly reduced.
You're description really sounds like Budd style wheels, and I know that they're using these on that side of the Pacific, I just saw a new Mitsubishi Fuso flatbed that had them.
And, I wanted to know if they're highway legal, meaning can you drive it on the highway? These are street legal here in some states I think but not allowed to travel on a (interstate) highway.
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(http://www.oxypetrol.com/email/s_torch2.jpg)
;)
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hit the TIRE with a sledge hammer..
opposite sides.
keep going back and forth..
PB Blaster is your FRIEND..
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It has squares at the outside end of the studs.. soo.... maaaaybe it is budds.
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I have no idea if you guys will be able to help.. but let me ask..
So.....................
The brakes go from the master cylinder to the front two brakes.. then "one" line goes to the rear drums.. and before hand it goes to another cylinder looking thing... I think it MIGHT be a pressure regulator to maybe.. increase the rear braking pressure...
Anyways.. I've bled the rears.. ther are only 3 bleeder valves.. one on each front wheel and one on the rear driver side.. but the lines goto the passenger side then to the driver side.. hence the one bleeder? So,
You pump the brake pedal.. to the floor, again, almost to the floor, third time it catches in the middle and stays there.. hard as a rock.
So.. not master cylinder.. the middle cylinder.. dunno what it is called... pressure something.. maybe.. I think it might have shot o-rings letting fluid slip by.. until it builds pressure.. what do you guys think? There is 100% NO AIR in the lines.. but the middle cylinder deal ... it has a bleeder right on top of it.. and cracking it with the petal stomped does NOTHING.. first time ever a bit of fluid came out.. now.. nothing. stomp crack.. nothing? rinse, repeat.. im stuck here..
Does it sound like crud stuck in the valve body or cylinder? or what? I'm getting stumped here but that's the only reasonable explaination I can come up with.... Ideas?
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The chain of wheel cylinders without bleeders until the end of the branch, I don't think it too uncommon on older medium duty trucks, I've usually seen two wheel cylinders per side, one up/one down or one left/one right (each controls one shoe only) and the bleeder isn't until the final one. I don't know if it has that.
My guess about that part is that a pressure proportioning valve, or it's some sort of residual pressure valve which is like a pressure accumulator that keeps some amount of pressure on the very heavy shoe return springs, to keep them from fully retreating when you're driving. A lot of the pedal travel is to overcome the return springs. If it has electronics attached to it, then it's possibly an ABS pressure dump valve.
If it's ABS related, I would bypass it. If it's a pressure accumulator, I would try to make it work, it probably needs it, I know there are aftermarket things out there for this purpose. I would first try to find a part number on it, to figure out what it is.
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That was an excellent explaination.
The drums do have a cylinder per pad and the bleeder at the end.
It MUST be a pressure proportioning valve.. I'm going to remove it, and replace all the o-rings inside.. with hope that it won't let fluid slip back past it.
If you watch the fluid level in the reservoir, when you pump the brakes to get a hard pedal the fluid level drops. After having your foot off the brakes for a few seconds the fluid comes back into the reservoir and then the pedal is soft again.
So, I'm hoping a simple rebuild will get it working again.. it's the easiest thing for me to try first.
Thanks again!
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That was an excellent explaination.
The drums do have a cylinder per pad and the bleeder at the end.
It MUST be a pressure proportioning valve.. I'm going to remove it, and replace all the o-rings inside.. with hope that it won't let fluid slip back past it.
If you watch the fluid level in the reservoir, when you pump the brakes to get a hard pedal the fluid level drops. After having your foot off the brakes for a few seconds the fluid comes back into the reservoir and then the pedal is soft again.
So, I'm hoping a simple rebuild will get it working again.. it's the easiest thing for me to try first.
Thanks again!
sounds like the shoes need adjusted to me...
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Too much slack in the rear brakes could cause that much play in the pedal? Could be... haven't checked yet.
Don't know if they have self adjustors.. thanks! Another thing to check.