VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.
Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: wolfsburged on August 01, 2010, 10:04:35 pm
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We have mostly been lurking, but now it is time for a proper introduction and build thread.
My wife (JessaBug) and I have been tinkering on "Klaus" for two years now, after rescuing him from a backyard of a VW hoarder with too many projects and not enough time. He'd been off the road for years, and we were able to get him on the road safely, if a bit roughly.
Klaus is a factory Jetta GL Turbo Diesel. Mileage is unknown; odometer was stopped around 180,000 when we got him.
Long story short, two years later Klaus's fuel economy is a down to around 30 MPG even, loosing oil, murky brown coolant continuously, and marginal compression (360-400 PSI). So a rebuild is in order.
For the whole past 2 years of build thread info, we have a thread on NC Dubs: http://www.forums.ncdubs.org/showthread.php?t=11115 (http://www.forums.ncdubs.org/showthread.php?t=11115)
The engine rebuild sub-project is now in progress!
A big thanks to Apex Tuning for letting us pull the car in on Saturday and pull the motor. Extra thanks to Pinky for helping get the damn toilet bowl exhaust clamps off.
The Northern Tools engine stand I bought turned out to only have 3 of the 4 wheels on the ground, so we returned that and luckily my dad showed up with a spare stand just when we needed it.
Saturday we got the engine and transmission pulled, mounted it to the stand, and got the accessories off. We power washed the transmission and found out it was actually silver! The car is parked outside at Apex for now.
(http://knightcreations.com/ghetto/images/jetta/rebuild/IMG_3249.JPG)
Last time together before the rebuild
(http://knightcreations.com/ghetto/images/jetta/rebuild/IMG_3257.JPG)
Disconnecting the axles. There is a mk1 Jetta convergence!
(http://knightcreations.com/ghetto/images/jetta/rebuild/IMG_3259.JPG)
Making a mess
(http://knightcreations.com/ghetto/images/jetta/rebuild/IMG_3261.JPG)
Hooking up the hoist
(http://knightcreations.com/ghetto/images/jetta/rebuild/IMG_3264.JPG)
All out
(http://knightcreations.com/ghetto/images/jetta/rebuild/IMG_3265.JPG)
(http://knightcreations.com/ghetto/images/jetta/rebuild/IMG_3272.JPG)
Trans before power washing
(http://knightcreations.com/ghetto/images/jetta/rebuild/IMG_3274.JPG)
And after the first pass.
(http://knightcreations.com/ghetto/images/jetta/rebuild/IMG_3280.JPG)
Riding high with no engine
Today we degreased/cleaned the brackets and bits we pulled off, in preparation for sandblasting and paint.
(http://knightcreations.com/ghetto/images/jetta/rebuild/IMG_3296.JPG)
All clean(er)...
Now, when I pulled the passenger side axle, a ton of gear oil poured out of the flange. I'm assuming I need to replace some sort of seal here.
More progress later this week, as we continue to tear down the motor. IP is going off to Giles this week for a performance rebuild. Radiator and condensor going off to a radiator shop to be cleaned out.
Also have been eyeing up an Air/Water intercooler setup. Borrowed a TDI side-mount air/air but couldn't find a good place for it. I think the water rad would fit nicely in front of the existing radiator and condensor. I'm not willing to sacrifice the AC. Thinking of this sort of setup, from Frozen Boost - the "350 HP" kit, but with uprated Bosch Cobra pump. http://www.frozenboost.com/product_info.php?cPath=216&products_id=1034&osCsid=025985bd83ee9e1f18a8b7b051d7e25f (http://www.frozenboost.com/product_info.php?cPath=216&products_id=1034&osCsid=025985bd83ee9e1f18a8b7b051d7e25f)
Stay tuned... Bill & Jess
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There goes the piggy bank ... and the cookie jar.
Gear lube in passenger CV sounds all too familiar.
I just went through that myself on the Truck recently.
Did a thread in troubleshooting section - knew i was in trouble, and was ready to shoot something.
Turned out a PO had put the 1" longer mk2 axle unit on it. And the extra length had ground out the flange cap.
Hopefully that isn't your deal too.
At minimum its just the flange cap fell out. $2each
Use permatex #2A non-hardening around their rim to hold in place real good - might as well do both sides.
Perfect time to install Prothane steering rack bushings right now too - easy access. About $15 shipped. Or BFI might stock them.
Roll On ;)
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i love seeing girls work on cars, especially pretty girls working on pretty cars. ;D
love the 2dr mk1 jetta in the back..
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Bill's woman is probably as rare as
his their mk1 TD.
That gal will throw on the grungies and give em he// all day.
Does her own oil changes on her Beetle and stuff too ...
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Bill's woman is probably as rare as his their mk1 TD.
That gal will throw on the grungies and give em he// all day.
Does her own oil changes on her Beetle and stuff too ...
thats friggen awesome! why dont they make more sporty models, like her?
and i saw her beetle in the background..
its actually very entertaining watching females work on vehicles, and KNOW WHAT THEY ARE DOING.
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Thanks for the compliments guys :)
I have certainly been hands on with this car since the day we got it. Not afraid of a little diesel grime. I'm using this build as a learning experience. To be honest, I don't know too much about how engines and all work so I'm taking this as an opportunity to really see it all first hand. I've learned a lot already with this car, and I'm anxious to learn more. And yes, Baron is correct. I do oil changes on my New Beetle myself. Also have rotated the tires myself (with some help from Bill, only because they are a bit heavy for me to lift on my own!). We don't get too much more involved with my car, simply because its my DD, and well, it sucks to work on.
I love being in the minority of women in the world who actually know something more about their car then just how to put gas in it. I've had roommates who didn't even know where their coolant bottle was and how to check the level!
Oh and Rabbit, thats actually not my bug in the back, thankfully! It just happened to be at the shop at the time (the one in the background is a TDI that threw the timing belt. ick. Mine is a blue 2.0 5-speed [yes, not only can I work on cars, but I also can drive a manual :p]).
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Thanks for the compliments guys :)
I have certainly been hands on with this car since the day we got it. Not afraid of a little diesel grime. I'm using this build as a learning experience. To be honest, I don't know too much about how engines and all work so I'm taking this as an opportunity to really see it all first hand. I've learned a lot already with this car, and I'm anxious to learn more. And yes, Baron is correct. I do oil changes on my New Beetle myself. Also have rotated the tires myself (with some help from Bill, only because they are a bit heavy for me to lift on my own!). We don't get too much more involved with my car, simply because its my DD, and well, it sucks to work on.
I love being in the minority of women in the world who actually know something more about their car then just how to put gas in it. I've had roommates who didn't even know where their coolant bottle was and how to check the level!
Oh and Rabbit, thats actually not my bug in the back, thankfully! It just happened to be at the shop at the time (the one in the background is a TDI that threw the timing belt. ick. Mine is a blue 2.0 5-speed [yes, not only can I work on cars, but I also can drive a manual :p ].
pretty sure your my new favorite user on here. you rock girl..
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Is there any connection with the infamous Klaus Forklift Safety video? ;D ;D ;D
Forklift Driver Klaus English Subtitles (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-oB6DN5dYWo#)
You can practise your German. ;D
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No, not really a connection, although I have seen the video. Sometimes I get to be Staplerfahrer Bill at work though...
Anyway small update. The pump has been sent off to the frozen North to Giles for a performance rebuild!
Also looking at EGT solutions. This has my attention for the moment:
http://www.dieselmanor.com/isspro/r3607tr_ev_pyro.asp (http://www.dieselmanor.com/isspro/r3607tr_ev_pyro.asp)
R3607TR-PL Pyrometer Kit
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The pump has been sent off to the frozen North to Giles for a performance rebuild!
Request a souvenier Performance Diesel ink pen, they make great glovebox good luck charms and convo pieces. And pretty handsome stylish pen too.
I could tell right away my writing was smoother and faster. 8)
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I like the look of your EGT gauge, but I think the general concensus here is Aircraft spruce and the 1/8 thermocouple for the fastest reacting gauge out there. Cheap too, the last I looked it was under 100.00 for gauge, light kit, thermocouple, and pyro wire shipped. Libbybapa *Andrew* is the one who turned me onto them and probably knows the most about them.
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I run an isspro pyrometer gauge with the aircraftspruce thermocouple, and it works great. So if you still want the isspro look you can have it and still get the super fast response of the 1/8' aircraftspruce thermocouple. It might set you back a few more though.
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I see that aircraft spruce sells a number of EGT gauge setups... Which is "the" aircraft spruce one of which you refer? They all look, well, very aircraft-like. Maybe I'm missing something, but do they even fit in a standard 2 1/6" mounting bracket?
I do like the ISSPRO color coding.
As for the T/C, aside from the diameter of the tip, I don't believe there should be much of any difference in responsiveness. It is just a metallic junction. I think the ISSPRO R658SHT-8F-PL is 1/8" NPT tap, which I assume means the tip is also 1/8" which seems like it would be pretty fast.
Any opinions on the Air/Water setup I posted up top?
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They had a thread on here about testing those various EGT set-ups in real world conditions. The spruce kicked butts.
Fatter exit pipes on Klaus will benefit him more than anything.
Lower EGT, lower coolant temps, lower oil temps, higher power output.
They looked like 2" ID or less.
I'd put that before intercoolers and air/water systems in terms of priority. :)
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(http://www.westach.com/gauge_images/2C2-1.jpg)
above is the CE2-1. Loved for cool down as it goes down to 100 degrees.
(http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/graphics/3probes.jpg)
That is the micro-1000 from aircraft spruce and here is the part#
10-01478
This thread covers them well
http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=25202.0 (http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=25202.0)
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They had a thread on here about testing those various EGT set-ups in real world conditions. The spruce kicked butts.
Fatter exit pipes on Klaus will benefit him more than anything.
Lower EGT, lower coolant temps, lower oil temps, higher power output.
They looked like 2" ID or less.
I'd put that before intercoolers and air/water systems in terms of priority. :)
I was looking at what Techtonics Tuning has for the 1.6TD (2.25" DP and exhaust system), but very pricey! Almost a thousand bucks once its all said and done.
That's the biggest thing stopping those plans. I don't want to have to drop that kind of coin with the other rebuild costs for the exhaust. Maybe you know of a more local place that can do it cheaper?
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(http://www.westach.com/gauge_images/2C2-1.jpg)
above is the CE2-1. Loved for cool down as it goes down to 100 degrees.
(http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/graphics/3probes.jpg)
That is the micro-1000 from aircraft spruce and here is the part#
10-01478
This thread covers them well
http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=25202.0 (http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=25202.0)
Thanks for the link. Sounds like the aircraft spruce T/C is much better.
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I was looking at what Techtonics Tuning has for the 1.6TD (2.25" DP and exhaust system), but very pricey! Almost a thousand bucks once its all said and done.
Maybe you know of a more local place that can do it cheaper?
I'm fixing to start beating the bushes to find a good exhaust shop that can work with old jalopies for poor folks. The best shop in my town closed up a couple years ago. Still have one left. And then my Gboro people to ask around about.
My deal is worse than yours, Truck has the even smaller NA pipes.
I need something in real near future.
More than likely will port and polish what can be reached on a stock MK1 cast Dpipe. Then have 2.5" pipe mated below the toilet headpipe connection.
But going to scout for anyone who can make a Dpipe for around $100 or so on a local scale.
the TT stuff has gotten some medicore comments compared to its hollywood price. 2.25" seems small for the money too. Passenger Perf was doing some Dpipes in 2.5 and 3.0 - but quit due to price gripes and low sales. Few of us are able or willing to pay 300-400 for a Dpipe. Theirs were said to be far superior to TT in quality and longevity.
Keep your radar on the watch too - i can drive anywhere for the right equipment done right at the right price.
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Thinking outloud-
Maybe its just an illustrative picture, but the TT MK1 unit looks like it beholds the MK2 form. The fact that it comes with a shortshift relay arm sort of compounds that notion also.
If it was bent more like a mk1 TD cast downpipe, the exit would be further over from the pictured mounting flange proximity. And would probably be no need for the shortshift arm to be included.
That would still put the exit pipe extremely close to the shifter relay bracket / bushings. Which is what i am already facing currently with the MK2 downpipe.
Maybe they just kinda split the difference between mk1-mk2 on the bend or sumpn ? ... to give less performance compromise of more bending. Surely someone would have mentioned if the exit was right up next to the relay bracket like a mk2 TD Dpipe puts it.
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Found these guys through a Google search. Raleigh based place that actually has a mandrel bender. Might have to give them a call or drop by and see what they can do.
http://www.rjscustompiping.com/ (http://www.rjscustompiping.com/)
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I'd say we could go over tomorrow before going to the shop, but that would mean braving Capital at rush hour on a Friday eek! But certainly looks like a potential solution. Good find :)
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x2 Good Find.
Maybe after your stuff is disected, you could run over one day soon with your DownPipe and let them work up some options and prices on a DownPipe.
I'm not going to be all that particular about the 2.5 exit pipes (regular bends economy grade pipe) but Dpipe needs to be heavy duty. Hope they like old TD's and can cut some slack !
Website reads like they have full ability.
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So tonight we were able to remove the head, exhaust manifold, turbo, downpipe, intake manifold, oil cooler/flange, vacuum pump, and oil pan.
One head bolt broke, but luckily was able to still get the head off, and a lot of the bolt is sticking out of the block so it shouldn't be that impossible to get it back out cleanly.
The head looks pretty good to my untrained eye. There looks to be only one area between valves with cracking, and it looks very minor. Will have to keep cleaning everything and see what the machinist says. Hoping that we can salvage the head.
Tomorrow we will be removing the pistons, rod, crank, and cleaning the block. Then everything goes to the machinist!
Pictures:
(http://knightcreations.com/ghetto/images/jetta/rebuild/IMG_3307.JPG)
Pulling oil return
(http://knightcreations.com/ghetto/images/jetta/rebuild/IMG_3309.JPG)
Oil pan off
(http://knightcreations.com/ghetto/images/jetta/rebuild/IMG_3313.JPG)
Head
(http://knightcreations.com/ghetto/images/jetta/rebuild/IMG_3314.JPG)
Crack between valves
(http://knightcreations.com/ghetto/images/jetta/rebuild/IMG_3317.JPG)
Stubborn broken head bolt
(http://knightcreations.com/ghetto/images/jetta/rebuild/IMG_3315.JPG)
Old headgasket. A few passages are blocked...
(http://knightcreations.com/ghetto/images/jetta/rebuild/IMG_3323-2.jpg)
Victory!
More later...
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Moving right along !
Nice Work - especially on getting the DownPipe off.
That engine was in need of this, if just to get the water jackets and passages cleaned out right again.
If its at all possible - try to take the block to a shop that has thermal cleaning. Its way better on the water jackets than conventional, and they need full attention in there. Thermal will make those jackets look new on the inside.
Even if shop of choice doesn't have it - you could just have it thermaled at one place then take it on over to your selected machinist.
What is the part number on your cylinder head ?
End with 373 T ?
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Moving right along !
Nice Work - especially on getting the DownPipe off.
That engine was in need of this, if just to get the water jackets and passages cleaned out right again.
If its at all possible - try to take the block to a shop that has thermal cleaning. Its way better on the water jackets than conventional, and they need full attention in there. Thermal will make those jackets look new on the inside.
Even if shop of choice doesn't have it - you could just have it thermaled at one place then take it on over to your selected machinist.
What is the part number on your cylinder head ?
End with 373 T ?
Are you referring to hot tanking, or something else?
I will check the number today.
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3 of the honeys! Very nice. I'm about to put mine through this @ 584k. As for the glow plugs, I would suggest Vince's glow plug pimp. It will save you the inclination in the future of putting a bullet through the block when one of them gets funky. It'll also keep the 50+ amps from coming through the firewall...Fans: I put in an override switch in for high speed (through a ford relay just like the glow plug job) because for one reason or another, the OEM system just goes Sybil whenever it wants to.
Andy
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Thermal cleaning is the newer alternative to hot tanking.
More Eco friendly, and does a way better job.
Any cast iron comes out looking like NOS inside and out.
Can't put any aluminum or magensium in there though.
But could also do your metal brackets and Dpipe and such.
I'm on a cool down break.
Finally got the Canada engines and stuff offloaded from my Truck today, thanks to a friend and his son. I was starting to worry it might start sagging my leaf springs. Its been over a week since i got back !
Also moved the 86 TD engine that i bought from you last year, to where i was putting this other stuff.
We both need a swift kick - i think. I never really scoped that thing over, was just so happy to get it SO Complete. Brought it home and plopped it into the shop and covered it up. Not touched it since.
It is Hydraulic ! Not Mechanical. :o
lmao @ us
I'd have bought it either way of course. Of Course.
But kinda even happier to find out its Hydra.
Has easy potential for the MLS headgasket conversion and 99 lbs of rocket boost.
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Another day of steady progress.
Stripped the rest of the block down. Removed the timing bolt and timing sprocket, however it seems that the key molded into the sprocket broke. I will have to source a new one.
Got the pistons and rods out, bearing caps, and crank all removed. Intermediate shaft out as well. Intermediate shaft bearing looks like hell.
Pulled the rings off of one piston and reinserted the compression ring. Gap is an easy 2-3mm.... Bentley is showing 1mm wear limit. Will leave it to the machinist to determine where to go from there, but sounds like an overbore may be in our future.
Power washed the block and got a ton of crap off. There is some green paint showing through under all the oil... If my memory serves me, VW factory reman motors were painted green. I wonder if this is one of those.
Anyway everything is ready to go to the machinist this week, so hopefully will be getting a report soon on the condition of everything and can start making some expensive decisions!
(http://knightcreations.com/ghetto/images/jetta/rebuild/IMG_3324.JPG)
End of the crank
(http://knightcreations.com/ghetto/images/jetta/rebuild/IMG_3325.JPG)
Timing sprocket
(http://knightcreations.com/ghetto/images/jetta/rebuild/IMG_3327.JPG)
Crank and pistons out
(http://knightcreations.com/ghetto/images/jetta/rebuild/IMG_3328.JPG)
Cam out
(http://knightcreations.com/ghetto/images/jetta/rebuild/IMG_3330.JPG)
Intermediate shaft bearing
(http://knightcreations.com/ghetto/images/jetta/rebuild/IMG_3331.JPG)
Ring gap
(http://knightcreations.com/ghetto/images/jetta/rebuild/IMG_3332.JPG)
Block cleaned up
Todd, I glanced at the head but forgot to write it down. I want to say it was 373 E.
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Machinists always want to put new everything and resize everything - seems like.
For the heck of it you might want to put a bare piston back in its cylinder and see what the clearance is on the piston.
.001 is fresh , .003 is high end of wear limit.
The clearance on the ring gap "might" be from wear of the ring.
And it might be time for a 4pack of kolbenschmidts, but i'd wanna check it myself.
I think they all got the limey green paint in those days whether production line or reman'd. If you go back with it, there is a Chrysler engine color that matches real tight, and its available in spray can engine enamel. Or JohnD green if you wanna brush it.
373 E is probly right. Corey's orig head was 373 E also.
I've seen the crank sprockets on AhausAZ recently, thinking it was 20-25'ish.
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Since it is out and easy to machine you could get a TDI sproket and never worry again. This is especially good if you ever want to go with a serp belt.
(http://www.volksdiesel.com/images/038105263E.jpg)
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Small update...
Parts are at the machinist. He got the head bolt out. Some possibility that the head is salvageable. We will see after the final report.
Also sent the turbo off to G Pop Shop today.
Hoping to hear soon that Giles has received the pump.
Now mostly will be concerned with cleaning what I have left until parts start rolling back in. Compiling my list of replacement parts I need.
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Update from the machinist. Head is reusable! Pistons are not. Looking at 0.020" overbore.
Best source for good new pistons for the TD?
Power washed the bay last weekend to good results. Looking to have someone paint the bay possibly before the motor goes back in.
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I knew that head was gonna make it !
(well - fingers and toes crossed anyway)
Don't toss the old pistons, i'll take em before they go to the garbage.
You know who has the best price on pistons, down south of us.
Can't get close to his piston price, many have used them.
Rings, nope.
4pack of Kolbenschmidts pistons is supposed to be the ticket.
Myke_W deals in them, AutohausAZ, and vwdieselparts.com (< NOT a Prothe website) its the guy named Jack in Ohio - pretty sure - and he has a VW Diesel forum also.
Have guns - can travel.
BaseCoat/ClearCoat silver metallic in the bay ?
Let me know if you need me on that.
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Working on my rebuild parts list. Trying to cross-shop this to get prices down.
A few questions:
Valve guides - I see 42.5 and 36.5mm listed. Machinist just said I need new, is there a hard/fast rule on what size the TD would be, or do I need to do more research on which I have?
Bearings - I was leaning towards Kolbenschmidt along with the pistons, but any brand preference between these vs Mahle or Glyco? Are the integrated thrust bearings better or worse, as long as they are fitted properly?
Clutches - I am assuming 210mm, but need to check on this.
Bolts & Hardware:
I'm not 100% on these, as I'm not 100% sure what can be reused vs stretch type.
Obviously new head bolts. Looking at ARP, but $175 a set!
Con rod bolts & nuts - do these need to be replaced? Nearly $100 for everything here.
Main/crank bolts?
Crankshaft sprocket bolt - needs to be replaced, correct?
Flywheel and pressure plate bolts - need to be replaced, correct?
I've worked up a spreadsheet of parts, with #s and pricing from vendors. Maybe someone can look through quickly and see if anything looks amiss on brands, pricing, etc? I went mostly with Autohaus AZ and Bus Depot for pricing. Can't get it to post inline, so you'll have to link in to it:
http://www.knightcreations.com/jetta_parts.htm (http://www.knightcreations.com/jetta_parts.htm)
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I use Glyco main bearings and haven't had any trouble. Integrated thrust bearings suck because they provide 50% less surface than the separate thrust bearings. If you do decide to use integrated bearings, make sure that when you start the car, DO NOT PRESS IN THE CLUTCH PEDAL! Disengaging the clutch puts pressure on the thrust bearings and will accelerate wear to these bearings and the crank thrust surface at low oil flow conditions.
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I'm glad I'm not the only one that does spreadsheets of parts. And not just at work.
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If you go to summit racing they used to have the head studs for 130
I have a TD coolant pipe for cheap :D
Myke W on here has the 6 piece main bearing set like factory had and they are cheap here is his site
http://www.thedubdoctor.com/parts_site/ (http://www.thedubdoctor.com/parts_site/)
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I used the Glyco's on mine. I got them from Myke W. a lot of folks have had trouble with the integrated thrust washers. I would avoid them. I went ahead and had all my bearings low-friction coated by swaintech as they were doing my pistons it seemed like a drop in the bucket, but I understand this is a budget build. Oh and I don't know if the 1.6 engines have it, but on the 1.9TD the no. 4 main bearing has a 360º oil channel so you end up with 4 flat and 6 grooved main bearings in the set. This apparently feeds oil to the aux. shaft. My MKI Bentley does not mention it.
I think you will find that for the price of stock stretch bolts it will only be a few more $'s to go up to the ARP, and if you are going to run a lot of boost I would definitely at least do the headstuds. They will pay for themselves. Especially if you ever need to remove your head because you maybe messed up and inadvertently ordered a TDI head gasket by mistake and ended up spending 6 hours swapping it out like someone I know :-[
updates? and lets see pictures of those coils we all helped you win ;)
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Well sent of the order for my parts tonight.
Ended up going with the Glyco bearings w/ seperate thrust bearings. Also went ARP for headbolts and also rod bolts.
Hopefully will start seeing parts come in before too long.
ISSPRO EGT gauge and Aircraft spruce probe showed up a few days ago.
Finished moving stuff out of the engine bay and rolled the car down to a nearby paint shop that is going to be painting the bay while the engine is out.
Dropped off a box of brackets and bits, including the radiator fan shroud, at Top Coat who is doing some powder coating for me.
Also thanks to everybody's vote, we ended up winning the BFI coilover contest!
(http://www.knightcreations.com/ghetto/images/needs_more_low/IMG_0522.jpg)
Probably will be a bit before more updates. I've been out in California visiting my ailing grandmother and just found out that she has passed away. Next week Jess and I will be traveling out there again for the memorial, so slow progress/ less budget for now.
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So now that the forums are back up, a bit of a backlog of an update!
So some photos of recent developments...
First of all, had the engine bay painted! Pretty happy with how it came out.
(http://knightcreations.com/ghetto/images/jetta/rebuild/IMG_0078.JPG)
So fresh and so clean, clean
Also took all of the parts we scrubbed on over to Top Coat for powder coating. First batch is back, waiting on a second... Very happy with the results, and the price.
(http://knightcreations.com/ghetto/images/jetta/rebuild/IMG_0069.JPG)
Misc. brackets
(http://knightcreations.com/ghetto/images/jetta/rebuild/IMG_0070.JPG)
Intake manifold.
Got my Aircraft Spruce EGT probe, and drilled and tapped the exhaust manifold. Also got ARP Head Bolts, Rod Bolts, and Main Bolts (Not pictured).
(http://knightcreations.com/ghetto/images/jetta/rebuild/IMG_0074.JPG)
R134a AC retrofit parts also have started arriving. New parallel flow condenser and new compressor have arrived. Will need to make up some new custom barrier hoses as well.
(http://knightcreations.com/ghetto/images/jetta/rebuild/IMG_0073.JPG)
AC compressor. Slightly longer. Don't think it will be an issue. SD-508 style made by Behr.
(http://knightcreations.com/ghetto/images/jetta/rebuild/IMG_0077.JPG)
Condenser
Painted the transmission and some misc. bits as well.
(http://knightcreations.com/ghetto/images/jetta/rebuild/IMG_0080.JPG)
Hi-temp silver paint
And then most excitedly, some performance goodies!!
First, rebuilt "SuperPump" courtesy of Giles at Performance Diesel Injection!
(http://knightcreations.com/ghetto/images/jetta/rebuild/IMG_0076.JPG)
That is a sexy pump!
Aaanndd a freshly "performance" rebuilt Garrett T3 courtesy of Gpopshop!
(http://knightcreations.com/ghetto/images/jetta/rebuild/IMG_0085.JPG)
Hopefully block and head will be back tomorrow! Going to get some paint on and then go off to H2O! Then hopefully moving ahead with some steam again soon!
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Great STUFF and nice work !!
D
E
L
U
X
E
Pretty soon its going to be 1984 all over again 8)
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the picture of the pump made me weak in the knees ;D, Your looks mint, Good Luck with the build
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What is the board's general opinion on replacing oil pumps during rebuild? I can see nothing wrong with the pump I have, I checked the gear backlash and according to Bentley specs it is fine.
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Did you have any previous oiling problems? If not I would leave it, but it is taking a chance at the same time.
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with all your time and money invested so far, I'd pop a new one in. I think there's an option for a higher volume pump - can't hurt with your turbo...
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If its in specs - its next to new.
Plus it is a completely proven part.
Judgement call - but i'll use it if you don't. (hint hint)
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No oiling problems before, and it is in spec, so probably will re-use.
Got word that my block and head have returned from the machinist. Will be checking up on those in the morning before heading to H2O!
Now I'm just waiting on Bus Depot to take their sweet time getting me the last of my parts...
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Your project is looking great. ;)
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No oiling problems before, and it is in spec, so probably will re-use.
Got word that my block and head have returned from the machinist. Will be checking up on those in the morning before heading to H2O!
Now I'm just waiting on Bus Depot to take their sweet time getting me the last of my parts...
Depending on what year it was it may have a 30mm oil pump. THe later style that Myke_W on here sells is 36mm. It is supposed to deliver more oil for TD engines. For the 50.00 or so I went with it *trying to help you out Barron* LOL
Seriously, if it is going to be a while or long term engine I would go with a new/bigger IF the old one is indeed a 30mm.
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So head and block are back. Looking good. No pictures yet, forgot to snap some on Friday when we were up at the shop. Probably get some this Friday when we hopefully will be painting the block.
Head looks good. George at CHS did some TIG welding of the areas between valves.
Also got another batch of pieces from powder coat.
(http://knightcreations.com/ghetto/images/jetta/rebuild/IMG_0092.JPG)
Tomorrow should be picking up a few more pieces in silver.
It seems that between this painting/coating spree I've lost the plastic bits of the headlight adjusters. Going tomorrow and hopefully they have not thrown them away at the powder coating place. Also noticed that I've lost my steering rack U-Joint boot. Hopefully can retrieve that from the painter's place as well. If not, will be looking for those bits.
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Just a helpful suggestion.
I love the look of my bolt on parts, but it is impossible to tell where the oil leaks come from. I should have done the block in black and the rest in orange. So what I am saying is be careful painting the block accessories if you are thinking black, especially glossy black.
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Last batch of parts back from powder coat. Decided to do the alternator.
Unfortunately it looks like the plastic bits from my headlight adjusters have melted off in the powder coat oven.. Forgot about that little part about plastic and high temps being bad... So I need new ones.
Also got my cam lock in, and also the first half of my Bus Depot order. Now eagerly awaiting the second half.
(http://knightcreations.com/ghetto/images/jetta/rebuild/IMG_0093.JPG)
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I agree on keeping black parts minimal on engine.
Brackets and such, valve cover, starter - black is fine.
I use a lot of silver cast and grey cast spray paints on engine accessories/miscellaneous.
That new coolant return distribution pipe would be good to have silver powdered.
Try and find a wide blade putty knife to wedge in with the camslide lock. You won't regret it.
Whats the scoop on Bus Depot ?
Never heard of them. As good/better than AutohausAZ or more offerings ?
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Well they have a decent part number search that actually returned hits on a lot of obscure pieces I had researched in Etka, and were cheaper than others who also had those parts (World Impex is the other I usually try when part numbers start showing up NLA or just no results other places). However, I placed my order on Sept 1 and I have just received the first half of my order. So I'm not too thrilled about the speed. Although everything I bought was special order from VW, but they said initially 5-7 business days for special items. I only know about them from past history with Vanagons.
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I ran some numbers thru BusDepot.com ...
They had the main thing i was hunting , decently priced.
Might order. idunno
But no Mk1 washer jars or MC reservoirs.
Ran some other wild numbers on a whim, and amazingly they could get them. But were all were pretty tall green tho.
Nice to have that resource.
Thanky
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Got my other box of Bus Depot stuff yesterday.
I just got a number of things that nobody else could find. I did wait a month for them, but the parts were very obscure. Probably common things would ship much quicker. Everything I got came in VW packaging. I don't know if they have access to some hidden treasure trove of parts that were sold off from VW long ago or something...
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Block is painted.
(http://knightcreations.com/ghetto/images/jetta/rebuild/IMG_0098.JPG)
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It looky like semi-gloss black.
What color will oilpan and valve cover be ?
(chrome plated ? woo yeh 8))
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I don't know if we've decided all that yet. Its between silver and black, which is what we're sticking with. We don't want to go overboard on the silver, since our bay has been freshly painted and is nice and shiny, but a silver oil pan might not be a bad idea in the case of leaks.
I think the paint we used on the block was low-gloss actually. This was right after we painted it so it was still wet. Figure the low-gloss would be easier to see oil leaks (hopefully won't have to worry about them any time soon after the rebuild, but it is a VW and a diesel!).
Bill is traveling for work this week, but we're hoping to spend some quality time at the shop this weekend getting some more stuff painted and start putting things together. I'm getting anxious to start on the assembly!
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Got some more work in today. Cleaned the coolant passages out with some wire brushing and air. Lots of crap came out.
Got the oil squirters back in, and ARP main studs installed. New Glyco bearings installed and plastigauged. Crank is back in, and block heater installed. Checked ring gap all around, 0.035mm.
Ran into issues pressing in the new ARP rod bolts. Having machine shop do this next week. Also my crank timing pulley bolt came in wrong. So hopefully next weekend will have pistons in.
(http://knightcreations.com/ghetto/images/jetta/rebuild/IMG_0112.JPG)
Getting crap out of the coolant passages
(http://knightcreations.com/ghetto/images/jetta/rebuild/IMG_0118.JPG)
ARP main studs
(http://knightcreations.com/ghetto/images/jetta/rebuild/IMG_0119.JPG)
Bearings in
(http://knightcreations.com/ghetto/images/jetta/rebuild/IMG_0120.JPG)
Plastigauged
(http://knightcreations.com/ghetto/images/jetta/rebuild/IMG_0121.JPG)
Crank back in
(http://knightcreations.com/ghetto/images/jetta/rebuild/IMG_0122.JPG)
Compression rings test fit
(http://knightcreations.com/ghetto/images/jetta/rebuild/IMG_0124.JPG)
Block heater in.
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Well got a lot more done this weekend.
Got the ARP rod bolts pressed in and was able to finish installing the pistons. We noticed a small mark on cylinder 4's bore, but decided that it was not deep enough to be an issue and continued on with installation. It looks deeper in the photo but is not deep enough to catch with a fingernail.
(http://www.knightcreations.com/ghetto/images/jetta/rebuild/IMG_0125.JPG)
Started installing accessories. Water pump and AC bracket installed, along with IP/motor mount bracket. Got the timing sprocket and v-belt pulley installed. Intermediate shaft seal and pulley installed. Put the oil cooler flange and new oil cooler on, as well as installed the vacuum pump.
(http://www.knightcreations.com/ghetto/images/jetta/rebuild/IMG_0127.JPG)
Ended up ordering a new oil pump just to be safe.
Measured piston protrusion and selected a one notch headgasket. More progress soon!
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Realized that I never posted pictures of the head after we got it back. Was very happy with the headwork. George was able to TIG the areas between valves, looks great.
(http://knightcreations.com/ghetto/images/jetta/rebuild/IMG_0152.JPG)
Got some more good progress in. Got the intake and exhaust manifolds installed onto the head:
(http://knightcreations.com/ghetto/images/jetta/rebuild/IMG_0153.JPG)
And got ready to install the turbo:
(http://knightcreations.com/ghetto/images/jetta/rebuild/IMG_0154.JPG)
Ran into a small issue. Turbo flange wasn't sitting flat against the exhaust manifold. Found a high spot and was able to smooth it down. It was at a corner, looked like it got bumped in shipping or something and deformed slightly.
(http://knightcreations.com/ghetto/images/jetta/rebuild/IMG_0155.JPG)
Drain too
(http://knightcreations.com/ghetto/images/jetta/rebuild/IMG_0156.JPG)
ARP head studs installed. They are the new part number for VW Diesel/TDI
(http://knightcreations.com/ghetto/images/jetta/rebuild/IMG_0159.JPG)
And finally got the head and headgasket (1 notch) installed. Torqued the studs to 30 ft-lbs, 44 ft-lbs, then 125 ft-lbs. Used tons and tons of the ARP assembly grease. Went well! And now it looks like a motor!!!
(http://knightcreations.com/ghetto/images/jetta/rebuild/IMG_0160.JPG)
(http://knightcreations.com/ghetto/images/jetta/rebuild/IMG_0162.JPG)
One random question: Is there supposed to be a gasket between the 90* intake neck bit on the intake manifold? It seems like there should have been, but I can't find one in my gasket kit.
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REF : INTERCOOLER
Iam working with bellintercooler to make a intercooler that will bolt on the 1991 1.6TD radiator
675 mm long 16 v a/c type, angle top outlet
They have a new 675 mm radiatoor to use as a mock up
It will attach to the condenser tab's on the front of this radiator, you can attach your a/c condenser on top or behind the i.c.
I hope to have 8 x 26
1.5 thick with 2' outlets
You can use your mkI fan support or updrade toa MKIi fan support for a cleaner look and stronger attachment
You can get a cnc battery mount ( optima) to give more clearence for the intercooler tube
MkI fan or MkII fan can be used with 16 v wiring harness and new radiator fan/temp sensor
The 675 mm radiator has the temp sensor on the front versus the side for easier install
MKI fan 150 Watt ,Four blade
MKII fan 250 Watt, Five blade
Radiator hose upper 1.6 td jetta ( 1991 )
lower will be 16 v scirocco a/c type, angle drop for alternator ( aaz/tdi)
I have both installed in my MK1 caddy and silicone type( radiator ) are in production
Hope this help's, Iam doing the same but with a PD130 and i didnt want to cross tubing to the intercooler
P.S. dont forget to protect your egt wire with some 1/4 firesleeve
aircraftspruce.com
GB
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That 90* neck you speak of does not receive a gasket. Since you have a nice shiney new turbo the wastegate will presumably function properly. You should ask your friend to TIG a plate over that hole for it houses a BOV set to about 8psi and can be a real bother if it leaks. The waste gate is adjustable so you can set your boost to what you want.
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More progress!
Friday got the IP and a few more brackets mounted. Put on some coolant lines and the BOV.
(http://knightcreations.com/ghetto/images/jetta/rebuild/IMG_0182.JPG)
Today got the timing belt installed, timing set, AC compressor and alternator mounted, oil supply line to turbo mounted, oil pressure sender, dipstick, coolant pipe etc all together.
(http://knightcreations.com/ghetto/images/jetta/rebuild/IMG_0194.JPG)
(http://knightcreations.com/ghetto/images/jetta/rebuild/IMG_0195.JPG)
(http://knightcreations.com/ghetto/images/jetta/rebuild/IMG_0198.JPG)
Realized we are missing one stud from the turbo at the downpipe, and one is bent. Messed that stud up trying to get it out, will have to attack again later with more heat.
Major hit list of items left:
* Install trans side main seal, oil pump, oil baffle, and pan
* Fix turbo exhaust studs
* Order new copper downpipe gasket and install downpipe
* Pull steering column and replace bearing. Install new u-joint boot
* Pull brake booster and reinstall missed bracket. Paint booster and MC.
* Re-run wiring harness in bay.
* Finish figuring out/making AC lines
* Install EGT gauge
* Trace coolant gauge wiring & fix
* Reseal transmission, replace throwout bearing, etc
* Install new clutch kit & mate transmission
* Rebuild headlight buckets & reinstall
* Tuck bumpers
* Reinstall engine
* Install coilovers
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If you want a silicone seal for the 90 intake neck?
Send me your address
I will mail you one
GB
I have a set of 1991 jetta 1.6 TD a/c radiator hoses and a new 675 mm radiator,( angle top & bottom) that was used for tooling for 75.00
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You should, as GEE-BEE is offering, block the BOV. It does nothing but cause problems.
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Did a little reading in the FAQ, so let me see if I get this straight.
The BOV is set to open, stock, at a slightly higher pressure than the turbo's wastegate (~12 PSI). The wastegate will open to regulate boost at the stock settings of 9-10 PSI. So when I'm burying the throttle and the boost gauge is pegged at 9 PSI, that is the waste gate doing its thing.
So, in a stock sense, the BOV will not do anything unless the wastegate fails.
And, if I want to "up the boost" so to speak, I need to install a manual boost controller in the air line that goes to the wastegate, to fool it into seeing less boost, in order to let the turbo build more pressure. BUT, if I don't alter the spring or disable the BOV, I will never be able to get more than 12 PSI since the BOV will then be activating.
Gasoline cars need BOVs because they have throttle plates which we diesels don't. The only thing the BOV will buy me is a secondary safeguard against wastegate failure.
So despite the extra effort, still seems like the extra safety of the BOV would be worth it, just with additional spring changes should I desire more boost?
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Did a little reading in the FAQ, so let me see if I get this straight.
The BOV is set to open, stock, at a slightly higher pressure than the turbo's wastegate (~12 PSI). The wastegate will open to regulate boost at the stock settings of 9-10 PSI. So when I'm burying the throttle and the boost gauge is pegged at 9 PSI, that is the waste gate doing its thing.
So, in a stock sense, the BOV will not do anything unless the wastegate fails.
And, if I want to "up the boost" so to speak, I need to install a manual boost controller in the air line that goes to the wastegate, to fool it into seeing less boost, in order to let the turbo build more pressure. BUT, if I don't alter the spring or disable the BOV, I will never be able to get more than 12 PSI since the BOV will then be activating.
Yes, everything you said is correct and well stated, right up to here...
Gasoline cars need BOVs because they have throttle plates which we diesels don't.
Gasoline engines generally don't have BOVs, they have pop-off valves because of the throttle plates. There is a difference between the two, and unfortunately this is something that people often confuse with one another. BOVs blow off the excess pressure based on pressure alone. Pop-off valves blow of excess pressure based on pressure differential between either side of the throttle plates. The valve "senses" when there is lower pressure in the intake manifold because the throttle plate has closed, and dumps the excess pressure in the other side of the intake tract.
So despite the extra effort, still seems like the extra safety of the BOV would be worth it, just with additional spring changes should I desire more boost?
I agree with this statement too. Retaining your BOV and just setting it to a higher pressure sounds like a good idea.
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i wonder if you could use the bov inlet as the main air inlet with a 2 inch v clamp, its not in a good location tho
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Opinions on this boost controller?
TurboLogic Performance Model TL-21 MBC Kit
http://www.boostcontroller.com/index.php?item=30 (http://www.boostcontroller.com/index.php?item=30)
Seems reasonably priced, and is a ball & spring model, which seems to be better.
Prefer something that will allow tweaking on the low end for now, since I'm still at 9 PSI. Some of these seem to have different spring rates, not sure if this one will work fine at once spring setting...
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http://www.boostvalve.com/pricelist.html
I got one of his here 1/4" single version. Came with 2 springs one softer for lower boost and one stiffer for more. For the money I don't see how it could be improved upon even for more $$$.
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So despite the extra effort, still seems like the extra safety of the BOV would be worth it, just with additional spring changes should I desire more boost?
I agree with this statement too. Retaining your BOV and just setting it to a higher pressure sounds like a good idea.
[/quote
There is ONE thing about the BOV that isn't mentioned here though... When the BOV opens there is no longer any restriction on the turbo. Since the wastegate would be closed/blocked/whatever the turbo is going to try and spin itself to infinity. Not a good thing. Having 14 PSI boost doesn't kill these turbos or motors, but overspeeding the turbo substantially would be a good way for your engine to inhale compressor blades.
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A bit more progress this weekend.
Oil pump, baffle, and pan are installed. Rear main seal installed.
(http://knightcreations.com/ghetto/images/jetta/rebuild/IMG_0219.JPG)
Tore into the transmission a bit. Replaced both axle flange seals. Pulled the end cap off and replaced the clutch push rod, finger, throwout bearing, green cap, and clutch release rod shaft seal. Waiting on some Redline MT-90 to refill.
(http://knightcreations.com/ghetto/images/jetta/rebuild/IMG_0220.JPG)
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Had a productive day working on the project.
My dad stopped by to help out and we got the last two seals on the transmission replaced, input selector shaft and the main input shaft seal. Filled it up with some MT-90 GL4 oil and promptly got a puddle streaming out of the main input shaft seal.
Turns out after some more research there are two variants, a 22mm inner diameter, and a 24mm inner diameter. We have a 22mm input shaft, and a 24mm seal.
Luckily a quick call to Chad, our resident local OCD VW friend netted the correct seal.
Got the pressure plate, clutch, and flywheel installed.
(http://knightcreations.com/ghetto/images/jetta/rebuild/IMG_0228.JPG)
And the transmission mated to the engine.
(http://knightcreations.com/ghetto/images/jetta/rebuild/IMG_0229.JPG)
An earlier project was to powder coat and clean up the headlight buckets:
(http://knightcreations.com/ghetto/images/jetta/rebuild/IMG_0222.JPG)
We pulled the brake booster to replace a missing bracket behind it, and painted it while out. Also reinstalled the fuel filter heatshield and bracket, as well as the receiver/dryer bracket & AC lines.
(http://knightcreations.com/ghetto/images/jetta/rebuild/IMG_0224.JPG)
Then we decided to tuck the front bumpers a bit, and reinstalled the horns.
(http://knightcreations.com/ghetto/images/jetta/rebuild/IMG_0226.JPG)
Wear eye protection! The struts are oil and gas charged!
(http://knightcreations.com/ghetto/images/jetta/rebuild/IMG_0235.JPG)
Our friend Pinky tack welded the struts in place after we settled them in.
I was going to replace the steering column bearing but received the wrong part. The right one is on order and hopefully will get to that next week. Also ordered a new passenger side axle as I noticed there were some tears in the boots.
Got a Mk2 style fan, I need to find some new wiring bits to make it work as the plug is slightly different. Also it did not come with a resistor. I'm not sure if the resistor from my Mk1 fan is the same?
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How exactly did you set the timing on the engine stand without flywheel and trans installed ?
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I had marked a spot on the timing sprocket against the block. Going to reset the timing now to 0.9mm anyway though.
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More progress!
Got a new steering column bearing and got my dad to press it in. Steering column all tightened up and reinstalled!
Also he came up with a good fix for the air box which had worn down the latch area:
(http://knightcreations.com/ghetto/images/jetta/rebuild/IMG_0242.JPG)
Spent some time today fixing up wiring that was broken or about to break. Replaced the fan plug with new style to match the new fan.
Then got the turbo back on (had to get it sent out to get the broken stud out), got the downpipe on, and reset timing to 0.9mm.
Replaced passenger side axle with reman unit.
With the help of everybody up at the shop this weekend, got the engine back in! Resting on the side and front mount. Still need to get the rear mount on. Obviously still need to hook everything up!
(http://knightcreations.com/ghetto/images/jetta/rebuild/IMG_0244.JPG)
(http://knightcreations.com/ghetto/images/jetta/rebuild/IMG_0246.JPG)
More coming tomorrow!
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your injectors should not be connected to your LDA :P
otherwise motor looks great!
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your injectors should not be connected to your LDA :P
Yeah, that won't work well that way.
In case your not sure, the injector overflow line that you have connected to the LDA should go to a barbed fitting on the back side of the injection pump.
The LDA line should be connected to your intake manifold (there should be another barbed fitting on the inlet elbow of the intake). It needs to be here because the LDA is controlled by "boost pressure" which adjust fueling accordingly.
-Will
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Just checking to make sure people were actually looking at my pretty pictures ;)
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Just checking to make sure people were actually looking at my pretty pictures ;)
this is like diesel porn.. of course were looking!
great work BTW.. you are gonna have a BRAND NEW mk1 TD Jetta in the end..
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Got more done today. So close to being able to start!
Got the car up on the lift and connected the driveshafts, downpipe to exhaust (curse you toilet bowl clips!), front and rear motor mounts, and shift linkage.
(http://knightcreations.com/ghetto/images/jetta/rebuild/IMG_0249.JPG)
Got a lot of the hoses connected, fuel lines connected, radiator and fan back in. Reconnected about 80% of the engine bay stuff. Need to do some more research on the wiring. Got stuck on a few connectors which I didn't label and can't remember where they go. I'll probably start another thread on matching those up.
(http://knightcreations.com/ghetto/images/jetta/rebuild/IMG_0264.JPG)
Got stuck on the ignition switch housing on the steering column. Can't get it on far enough to get the bolt in that holds it to the outer column sleeve, seems stuck.. Also need to install the EGT gauge.
I'd say we are about one good day's worth of work away from a start attempt!
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Beautiful work. I am taking notes and will reference some of your pictures as I try to get mine back together!!
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Glad we can be of assistance! Its certainly been one heck of a fun project. I know I've learned a ton (its so much easier to learn how an engine works when its apart!). Not to mention, I've learned just how much I like wrenching on cars :)
Can't wait to get the car started again. We're so close! Hopefully just another day of working on it will lead to a starting attempt...
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I've posted a separate thread in the troubleshooting section for my wiring identification issues. Please take a look!
http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=27687.0 (http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=27687.0)
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Well after a few mis-steps, the engine is running!
Had to clean the grounding points of paint and run an additional ground cable to one of the starter bolts before it cranked.
Making good oil pressure. Drove it only about 3 miles total this weekend. Looks like the fan switch crapped out, and is leaking around the seal to boot. Tested the new fan by jumping the wiring at the switch and it works, so a new one is on order. In the short driving, only saw EGTs to about 5-600 *F.
Shift linkage is not quite right. Looks like the main shift selector rod got bent at the paint shop. Luckily found a replacement locally along with a full bushing kit and the other transfer rods.
Hopefully next weekend will rectify the shifting issues and radiator fan. Need to clean up some wiring and mount the EGT gauge more permanently. A few other misc. small things. Also need to get the coilovers installed and the rear bumper tucked.
But overall, running quite well! Very quick and easy starting, and sounding good!
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This is very sweet! im hoping to rebuild my spare 1.9td for my mk3 while its chillin in the garage.
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If you want to fill in the gap between the radiator and core support let me know I will mail you the correct seal for that ?
Did you go to the MKII 250 watt scirocco fan ( two speed) ?
GB
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Oh, I've got a soft spot for those Jettas. Beautiful job. I also have a soft spot for a lift and garage like you've got ;D
Good work.
Andy
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If you want to fill in the gap between the radiator and core support let me know I will mail you the correct seal for that ?
Did you go to the MKII 250 watt scirocco fan ( two speed) ?
GB
Are you referring to the cardboard pieces that flank the top and sides of the radiator, or something else?
And yes, this is the MK2 style fan.
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Did some more work today. Has been pretty cold lately, was about 36* outside when we fired it up the first time this morning. Got a bit of white smoke which went away pretty fast, subsequent starts and driving - no smoke.
Last weekend was having some issues with radiator fan switch leaking. Replaced this and no more leak. Radiator fans now coming on, at an indicated ~100 *C.
Fixed a few lights on my other gauges so I can read them at night.
Was able to find another shift rod locally. Swapped it in and replaced the two shift relay rods and the ball piece. It is definitely shifting better but the alignment still needs adjusting. Have to basically go into reverse push-down in order to get to 1st and 2nd.
Replaced the boost gauge tubing as well as it was kinked and reading wrong. In driving around today, I could only get an indicated 7 PSI of boost. Not sure if this is an inaccuracy, something to do with the breakin, or something else... Before I definitely was making 9 PSI. Maybe leaking boost somewhere like the BOV?
Power seems very good; definitely building boost and making decent power. At low RPM (<2000) the engine seems to bog in higher gears. Did not seem to do this as noticably before. Example, 25 or so MPH shifting into 3rd and just cruising is not too happy, starts shudder almost. I can power through, but not good for cruising.
Put the timing cover back on for peace of mind.
Also finally got around to installing the coilovers. They are JOM, we won them in the BFI contest in August.
(http://knightcreations.com/ghetto/images/jetta/rebuild/IMG_0288.JPG)
We set them to basically half travel for a first shot.
Old vs. New:
(http://knightcreations.com/ghetto/images/jetta/rebuild/IMG_0289.JPG)
Of course Jess wanted to install them!
(http://knightcreations.com/ghetto/images/jetta/rebuild/IMG_0291.JPG)
Before:
(http://knightcreations.com/ghetto/images/jetta/rebuild/IMG_0287.JPG)
After:
(http://knightcreations.com/ghetto/images/jetta/rebuild/IMG_0295.JPG)
Rears are a little lower, will probably raise them up about 1/2" to match fronts.
(http://knightcreations.com/ghetto/images/jetta/rebuild/IMG_0296.JPG)
Teaser shot for now; better pictures later after we finish dialing them in, tuck rear bumpers, and wash the dang car!
(http://knightcreations.com/ghetto/images/jetta/rebuild/IMG_0301.JPG)
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Got the shift linkage spot on today. Had to replace the bushings in the shift box and realign.
Raised the rear coils up about 3/4" to match the fronts, looks and feels a lot better.
Drove Klaus home today! Still a lot of tweaking/perfecting, but driving pretty good. Main issue is a bit of stuttering, higher gears, low speed, and low load. May tweak the timing.
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Definitely have a few oil leaks to track down and fix now.
Reset the timing to 0.95mm tonight and damn does that wake things up. Much better now!
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Just saw this car in person this Sunday.
Took them some spare parts in my Hippy Truck TD.
It's changed A LOT since i saw it last time, over a year ago.
Everything underhood looks new, or is new, except master cylinder.
(hello paintbrush -lol)
Jess is a heck of a wrencher. We need to clone this woman.
She and Bill are perfect team mates.
They swapped the hood, decklid, and back seats in perfect harmony.
Car rides tight. Corners flat. Accelerates real nice.
They're still breaking it in. Staying under 4k rpms and 8-9 psi boost.
Oughta be a beast when the exhaust gets bigger and the boost gets dialed up.
I really like this Car.
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I voted for you in that contest. Now seeing coils on a jetta it doesn't look bad. I have never really liked the look of lowered and the functionality for me wouldn't work anyway. But now I don't think it looks bad at all. Great job, love the snowflakes.
First 100 miles or so I stayed under 10psi, after that I wanted the rings to see real boost so I took mine to peaks of 18, but most of the time 12-15. Not a WOT but a gradual pedal pull. I ran it to the upper rpms but I didn't run it hard to get there. 10,000 miles plus and no oil burning...still have leaks just like yours. I think the main thing on break in is not to let it sit and idle, I think no load revs are better until the oil pressure builds then you can take off and try to keep it loaded. YRMV good luck :D
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We might end up raising it slightly...getting a bit of rubbing on tight turns. But the car really has a great stance. I've never been a fan of lowering cars, but it works on this car. We want to get it washed soon and get some good, updated pictures of it.
Also, didn't mention that my father-in-law was helping us with looking at the AC stuff the other day and realized our accelerator cable wasn't adjusted right. Adjusted it, and now the car really has some good pep...gained a bit more pedal travel. This is one heck of a fun car I have to say. Everytime I drive it, I can't help but grin ear to ear ;D
Plans for the future:
-Get it painted
-Intercooler
-Bigger exhaust
In the meantime we need to fix the leaks and get an alignment once we really get the coils tuned in how we want. Then we still need to finish the AC and get that working, and install our manual boost controller. Its coming along for sure. Hoping to take it to SoWo this year!
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Time for some more updates.
Got the old mangled passenger side fender replaced (thanks to Pinky for helping).
(http://knightcreations.com/ghetto/images/jetta/rebuild/IMG_0430.JPG)
Old:
(http://knightcreations.com/ghetto/images/jetta/rebuild/IMG_0432.JPG)
New (still need to swap the other trim bits):
(http://knightcreations.com/ghetto/images/jetta/rebuild/IMG_0434.JPG)
Had an issue with the alternator pulley munching its keyways. Had one of the washers in the wrong place which let it walk off the key a bit, and thrash about. New pulley in place and installed correctly and that is dealt with.
Fixed the horn - ground wire to the steering rack had let loose.
Tweaked the contact on the washer fluid contact on the stalk.
Raised the front coils a quarter inch, now we are no longer rubbing on tight turns! Going to get an alignment this week and then get inspected.
Still need to tuck the rear bumper. Also not getting any vacuum at the fresh air flap actuator; need to investigate the vacuum distributor. I may have swapped the lines back on it wrong.
Got these in the mail:
(http://knightcreations.com/ghetto/images/jetta/rebuild/IMG_0437.JPG)
All new barrier hoses, ferrules, and a high/low pressure switch & combination R12->R134 conversion port. I've cut the old hoses off of my lines to reuse the metal ends. Just need to finish cleaning them up and make new hoses.
Thinking about the EGT mounting; I have an idea to remove the plastic panel where my ash tray and cigarette lighter are and to make a custom gauge pod to fit the boost and EGT gauge there. That would free up a spot in the triple gauge cluster for the volt meter and also put those two important gauges in a more visible spot. I have two "cup" style holders that I could fiberglass into a panel.
Also filled up for the 2nd time and calculated mileage for the first time. 90% city driving to work, 10% beltline cruising netted approximately 41 MPG! Which is better than the previous lifetime best of 40.9 MPG @ 60 MPH, 95% highway prior to rebuild. So very happy there! Need to turn down the fuel screw a little bit as I am rolling coal at full throttle, and that should net a bit more mileage as well!
Now for a few issues I need to take care of:
Timing belt is tracking to the outer edge. I can't run with the upper cover on or it rubs. The belt is not walking off any more than this, but I do want to have it track straight so I can put the cover on.
(http://knightcreations.com/ghetto/images/jetta/rebuild/IMG_20110404_123250.jpg)
I found this informative post of things to check into:
http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=28388.0
Also can report no oil leaking from the oil pan, which is good. BUT, I have a decent leak coming from somewhere in the lower timing cover. Ugh. My mind is leaning towards intermediate shaft seal. Not looking forward to this, but if I have to end up really messing with the IP bracket mounting to get the timing belt to track right, I can deal with this at the same time.
Lastly, have a squeak from something belt driven. I think it may be the alternator. May end up picking up a spare to have anyway, and try swapping.
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Also picked up this factory side mount intercooler from a TDI New Beetle at the junkyard. Hoping I can fab it up somehow nicely down in the drivers front of the transmission area with a little scoop. Worst case, it was cheap. Need to clean and pressure test it still. And of course need to figure out some charge piping and couplers.
(http://knightcreations.com/ghetto/images/jetta/rebuild/IMG_0438.JPG)
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This Shiz looks good :)
You have done some crazy work here my friend. Congrats!
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WOW !!
How the world did you find a replacement A1 Jet fender that NICE and the RIGHT COLOR ?? ;)
Goo Be Gone is best for removing that stripe residue.
Or a REAL Mild solvent. That paint can be delicate.
So now you need rocker moldings too ?
Looks like it got bent , leaving it in place when doing the fender.
Hackers ! Molding molesters !
I've got a mint pair btw, from that same car.
Have had best luck on belt tracking by leaving rear bolt good and loose and snugging up the front ones first.
Hope the intercooler works out simple.
Did you ever get a quote on the mandrel bent exhaust ?
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your timing belt is probably too tight.
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your timing belt is probably too tight.
truth
If i didn't have the special timing belt tension tool - probably all my Diesel timing belts would be way too tight. 12-13 units is slack compared to a gasser.
One of my most valued tools.
$40 or 50 to the door.
Lemme know if you want to borrow mine by mail, Wolf.
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your timing belt is probably too tight.
truth
If i didn't have the special timing belt tension tool - probably all my Diesel timing belts would be way too tight. 12-13 units is slack compared to a gasser.
One of my most valued tools.
$40 or 50 to the door.
Lemme know if you want to borrow mine by mail, Wolf.
I suppose I might want to borrow that then. If its just a tension issue that makes this all a lot easier...
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most likely not a tension issue. in the my thread you linked, andrew says that an over tensioned belt and worn bushing will cause the belt to track towards the pump.
I mean you can give it a quick check, but I think its the brackets that's your problem.
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most likely not a tension issue. in the my thread you linked, andrew says that an over tensioned belt and worn bushing will cause the belt to track towards the pump.
I mean you can give it a quick check, but I think its the brackets that's your problem.
worn bushings make it track off the IP sprocket if its bad enough..
too tight of a belt can make it walk either way.
mis-aligned pump can also make the belt track goofy.
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I will start with the easy stuff like belt tension and then work up to the PITA bracket adjusting.
Got an alignment the other day and inspected. Nice to have the car actually track straight!
Still gotta deal with this darn alternator belt tension. I tighten up as best I can and I still am getting some belt noise and slippage. I can see the tach dip, especially around 2000 RPM, as the belt slips a bit. Louder belt whine in the mornings and cold... Locktite and locking washers on everything this time too...
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Took the long weekend to work on some nagging issues. Not anything too glamorous, but makes me feel better.
Stripped down the accessories and timing belt to deal with whatever was leaking under the lower timing cover. Found this:
(http://knightcreations.com/ghetto/images/jetta/rebuild/IMG_0475.JPG)
Pulled the intermediate shaft cover plate off and saw that I had missed installing the o-ring between it and the block. Put the o-ring on and reinstalled.
Also found a small leak from the turbo drain at the turbo. Got a bit of movement tightening one of the drain bolts, so hopefully fixed that too.
Took this opportunity to remove the IP and the AC/Alt bracket. Replaced the AC/Alt bracket with a newly powdercoated, used piece. This new bracket has the upper alt pivot bushings that aren't rounded out.
Played around with the position of the IP brackets for almost all of Saturday. Moved some stuff, retimed, checked the belt tracking by bumping the starter. Each time tracking out to the edge. Used Baron VonZeppelin's factory tension tool, getting a nice 12-13 reading on each time. Whew what a freaking PITA, time consuming chore. Anyway at the end of it I got it just ever so marginally better than before. At this point it is still tracking to the outer edge, but it is staying inside of the pulley edge, whereas before it was hanging off just a bit. Can't get any more adjustment out of the brackets. I think the IP bracket is slightly tweaked. I had a new motor mount pressed in a few years ago, at the very beginning of owning the car. Timing belt has always tracked out. Probably happened back then. Either way, it is how it is, I'm going to monitor it a bit more, and then put the upper timing cover back on and forget about it.
Also took the opportunity to inspect the lower nipple on the coolant reservoir. Two different hoses, and a dozen of attempts to tighten the hose clamp kept yielding a slow weep from this location. Found a bit of plastic flashing/burrs (cheap new parts...). Cleaned it up and put the hose back on.
I did do one "fun" project this weekend. Had my EGT gauge hanging out in the center cubby and needed a home. I never use the ash tray so I figured I'd relocate it there. Made a little gauge bezel and moved the boost and EGT gauges to where the ashtray was, and installed the voltmeter I had in the lower console.
(http://knightcreations.com/ghetto/images/jetta/rebuild/IMG_0479.JPG)
Drove the car today and parked it in a fresh spot. Six hours later and the ground underneath is free of spots!! So a small victory.
Going to be tending to the AC soon. Of course, that means that my "good" used blower fan has started making horrible death sounds, so I'm trying to locate a new one to install. Also need a new vacuum actuator for the fresh air flap. Was able to confirm vacuum to this point, but no actuator movement...
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Found a new VDO AC blower fan on Ebay, showed up on my door the other day. Now have to see about replacing the fan via the rain tray opening. Will be a minor PITA. Also sourced a new vacuum actuator for the fresh air flap.
Just ordered a set of H1 and H4 lamps from Autopal on ebay along with a conversion pigtail. Going to swap these in and relay them for better night driving.
Tried adjusting motor mounts the other day, however I just made things worse. Before had some excessive vibration when slamming on brakes or reversing, especially uphill. Now I don't have that issue but have more vibration at idle and hit odd resonances at certain RPMs. I have the rear mount centered, and both side mounts centered left/right, however now it seems the side mounts are both sitting too far forward of center. Will have to try again.
Been driving the Jetta everyday. So far city mileage is 41-43 MPG.
This weekend took a nice highway cruise in the Jetta. 268.3 miles / 5.243 gallons = 51.17 MPG! New lifetime best! 65-70 most of the way too, not hypermiling.
We have reservations for the Southern Worthersee show in Helen, GA May 20-22. Hope to see some other diesels there!
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Also one new good photo from the weekend. Need to take some of the spray touchup paint and hit some of the pock marks still, but looking good with the new fender.
(http://knightcreations.com/ghetto/images/jetta/IMG_0150.jpg)
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Lookin' good!!
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Trade a left nut for that jetta? It's worked twice ;D
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Also one new good photo from the weekend. Need to take some of the spray touchup paint and hit some of the pock marks still, but looking good with the new fender.
(http://knightcreations.com/ghetto/images/jetta/IMG_0150.jpg)
*droooooooooooolllllllssssss*
damn!!!
that thing looks show room fresh. too bad it didnt smell like a brand new VW..
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51mpg with a TD is GREAT !
Especially with todays fuel prices.
Looks really good
Anyone notice the factory locking Jetta Diesel fuel cap on that car ?
oooohhhhhh
aaahhhhhhh
My youngest brother recently wised up and joined VWDzl ranks.
04 or 06 TDi Jet with just over 100k miles.
His OBC mpg numbers mirror your numbers.
Rock On wif dat Mk1 TD
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Repainted most of the black primered bits after sanding, including all of the lower lip. Looks a lot better. Still need to pull the rear bumper for a tuck and to hit a small patch of rust back there.
The Autopal H1/H4 lights and conversion pigtail showed up yesterday. Going to get some automotive relays and rig them up next week.
Got my blower fan situation figured out, didn't end up needing a fan.
Car went to RJ's Custom Piping this week, got a 2.5" downpipe and full exhaust, with resonator and Borla muffler. Sounds great. Lower pitch than before, but no louder than stock; can really hear the turbo spool up now, and it spools faster. EGTs are down considerably. This really woke the car up!
Got a new starter installed, and gave the rusty master cylinder a coat of silver POR15.
Before SOWO need to install the new lights and clean up a little more wiring. Also may put on the GLI rear license plate tub. And give it a good wash!
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We did the Autopal E-code H4 conversion on my bro's 84 (converted) Turbo Diesel. What bulbs did you end up getting with them? I went with the 90/100w Ultra Blue, and ZOMG. Low beams are intense, but high beams are DAMN NEAR SUNLIGHT in front of you.
Also did you choose Euro? or DOT?
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It was cool meeting you guys at SoWo. Too bad I never got to see the Jetta. In fact I didn't notice any MKI turbo diesels, just a bunch of NA guys. We could have been the Only TD MKI's. Of course your car is WAAAY cleaner than mine. I just wanted to reiterate that if you organize a VW diesel club for the Southeast like you mentioned, I'd be all about it. Awesome work btw. Now turn up the boost. ;D
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Just love this build ;D
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Car made it down to SOWO and attended the MK1 GTG:
(http://knightcreations.com/ghetto/images/jetta/IMG_0343.jpg)
Alternator failed while in Georgia. Luckily was able to drive ~9 hours (due to massive I85 backup/detour) back home without the alternator working (and battery light on, tach dead).
Alternator is now replaced and charging.
Installed the H1/H4 lights and Eurowires relay harness today. Massive improvement in light output!
(http://knightcreations.com/ghetto/images/jetta/IMG_0495.JPG)
High beam:
(http://knightcreations.com/ghetto/images/jetta/IMG_0496.JPG)
Low beam:
(http://knightcreations.com/ghetto/images/jetta/IMG_0498.JPG)
Installed:
(http://knightcreations.com/ghetto/images/jetta/IMG_0501.JPG)
The Autopal lights are a complete steal, I think it was less than $80 total for the 4 lights, bulbs, and shipping. I went with these from their Ebay store:
165mm H4656 H4666 H4 EURO HEADLIGHTS WITH CITY LIGHTS
165mm H4651 H1 HIGH BEAM EURO CONVERSION HEADLIGHTS
I went with the standard 55W H4 and 100W H1 bulbs, very happy with the performance. Build quality is very good as well. I had Hella glass E-Codes on my B4 Passat and while the design is different, I can't find any fault in the construction of these (time will tell of course).
Also Jeff at Eurowires makes some really nice relay harnesses. Can't recommend enough.
Also got a few more interesting fuel economy figures from the SOWO trip. Was caravaning down with some high HP 1.8T guys which meant we were averaging 80-90 MPH on the way down, including one massive 90+ stint to make up a few miles worth of distance lost. That dropped that section's mileage to 43 MPG. Driving 75MPH closer to 46 MPG. Definitely happiest at 65 and below to get those 50+ MPGs.
Got a few more AC fittings in the mail. Hopefully will make up the lines soon. Not driving it too much as its been too damn hot with all these upper 90s temps.
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Working on the next project: Air conditioning.
Made up two of the three hoses I need yesterday. Ran into a small snag and need some new parts to finish the last line.
Last Christmas got my dad an AC hose crimping tool. Got to use it on my project to make custom AC lines up.
I've fitted a universal parallel flow condenser in place of the stock tube and fin condenser.
New high pressure line from compressor to condenser top:
(http://knightcreations.com/ghetto/images/jetta/IMG_0525.JPG)
Compressor side has 90* #8 female o-ring fitting w/ R134a High Pressure service port to #8 bead lock fitting, #8 hose to #8 x #8 splice with 1/4" R12 service port and binary pressure switch. The binary pressure switch will be wired in series after the current water temp cutout switch and before the compressor, as the original system had no pressure switches. The high pressure cutout is required to "legally" convert to R134a, and the low pressure switch will be an extra compressor safeguard.
(http://knightcreations.com/ghetto/images/jetta/IMG_0526.JPG)
Condenser end is simply #8 beadlock 90* fitting to #8 female o-ring.
(http://knightcreations.com/ghetto/images/jetta/IMG_0527.JPG)
Since installing the new condenser, the factory hard line from the bottom of condenser to the receiver/dryer was replaced with custom hose, two #6 90* fittings and #6 hose:
(http://knightcreations.com/ghetto/images/jetta/IMG_0529.JPG)
Test fit in place with new condenser:
(http://knightcreations.com/ghetto/images/jetta/IMG_0535.JPG)
The snag I hit with the low pressure suction line from evaporator to compressor is that the original fitting at the compressor goes from a #10 female o-ring fitting to #12 hose. I bought the hose and a #12x#12 90* female o-ring to beadlock fitting w/ R134 low pressure service port. What I am going to have to do is reorder a #10x#12 90* fitting and a #12x#12 splice with R134 low pressure service port instead.
Then once the last line is done I will vacuum the system to check for leaks and then charge with R134 and new PAG100 oil.
Found this helpful technical bulletin from VW concerning appropriate refrigerant and oil capacities for R134a:
http://knightcreations.com/ghetto/images/jetta/vw_AC_retrofit_info.pdf
Also realized we never posted good photos of the exhaust system:
2.5" downpipe:
(http://knightcreations.com/ghetto/images/jetta/IMG_0530.JPG)
Flex section:
(http://knightcreations.com/ghetto/images/jetta/IMG_0532%20%282%29.JPG)
Resonator:
(http://knightcreations.com/ghetto/images/jetta/IMG_0533%20%282%29.JPG)
Jump over rear beam:
(http://knightcreations.com/ghetto/images/jetta/IMG_0534%20%282%29.JPG)
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Car made it down to SOWO and attended the MK1 GTG:
(http://knightcreations.com/ghetto/images/jetta/IMG_0343.jpg)
looks great with moar low...
beautiful car.. you guys did an awesome job..
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Got the last few fittings in I needed to do the last line.
Suction line:
(http://knightcreations.com/ghetto/images/jetta/IMG_20110715_210348.jpg)
Compressor connections:
(http://knightcreations.com/ghetto/images/jetta/IMG_0564.JPG)
And routed:
(http://knightcreations.com/ghetto/images/jetta/IMG_0563.JPG)
Also missed the muffler shot in the last post:
(http://knightcreations.com/ghetto/images/jetta/IMG_0566.JPG)
Next up this weekend is to try and pull and hold a vacuum and pray that all my connections don't leak! If so, then I will replace the reciever/dryer with the new one I have, add some oil and charge it with R134A!
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And routed:
(http://knightcreations.com/ghetto/images/jetta/IMG_0563.JPG)
that is one BUSY engine bay.. soo much clutter for a diesel engine.. the a/c really adds clutter tho.
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Its organized chaos really :P
We still have some neatening up to do in the bay, but getting everything in there and working is important. Bill will take care of cleaning up the wiring soon hopefully. The AC does add a lot of clutter though. But we want it here in the South. Looking at 100 degrees for a few days this week and high humidity...driving with windows down just doesn't cut it like that. If we could keep it out, we would. But it sits for too long right now without it.
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Great thread! and thanks for your highway rpm's/egt's tips on the thread I did over on the 'tex.
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I retrofitted my old f250 diesel a couple weeks ago with original equipment and r134a because it was $34 at biglots.
I thought I could get away with it but after day 1 and monitoring temps I was already pissed at myself for not just waiting and paying for the originally intended r12. You can find it on ebay or craigslist.
Also I would just get a new drier to start and after flushing out the parts replace all orings, etc. They also make this cool sealant you can put on all valves, threads, orings where you make a connection called nylog. Be carefull they have a red and blue depending on the oil/system you use. I used it because it creates this neat seal. I even tested it once and cracked a couple lines after pulling down vacuum to reposition and it didn't breach! Seems like a no brainer to use and doesn't hurt the internal workings of anything.
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All new components in the system. All new lines and fittings and o-rings. New oil and r134-a added as well. It took time and money to get it switched over, but its now all together.
We have nice cool AC coming out of the vents as of this evening 8) Power decreases when its on, but certainly more than usable. Still some tweaking to do on it, but feels pretty awesome as is.
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:o
Holy bump from the bowels of the web!
It's been years since I posted any progress on this or even been over to the site! However this past week marked 10 years of having Klaus. Running strong as ever, with cold A/C and a few more changes since the last post here! Here's a recent photo:
(http://knightcreations.com/ghetto/images/jetta/IMG_0384%20(Medium).jpg)
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Thanks for bumping this - I enjoyed reading immensely - would not have found it otherwise. You did a proper rebuild and the longevity proves it as well reaffirming the 1.6's as solid motors.
Few questions. I also found the TT downpipe pricey - maybe I missed it but where did you get your exhaust?
Did you have to cut the telescopic bumper mounts to bring them in? How did you deal with the plastic cover on top of the bumper?
Any issues besides regular maintenance? What would you have done differently? How was it servicing such a busy engine bay? What original components have you had to look at due to age?
I am keeping an 84 alive myself so I'm very curious (factory TD as well)
http://(https://thumb.ibb.co/b1ppdd/IMG_20170809_074546.jpg) (https://ibb.co/b1ppdd)
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Thanks for bumping this - I enjoyed reading immensely - would not have found it otherwise. You did a proper rebuild and the longevity proves it as well reaffirming the 1.6's as solid motors.
Few questions. I also found the TT downpipe pricey - maybe I missed it but where did you get your exhaust?
Did you have to cut the telescopic bumper mounts to bring them in? How did you deal with the plastic cover on top of the bumper?
Any issues besides regular maintenance? What would you have done differently? How was it servicing such a busy engine bay? What original components have you had to look at due to age?
I am keeping an 84 alive myself so I'm very curious (factory TD as well)
http://(https://thumb.ibb.co/b1ppdd/IMG_20170809_074546.jpg) (https://ibb.co/b1ppdd)
The exhaust was completely custom from turbo back, done at a local exhaust shop that had a mandrel bending machine. It was around $600 I think, and has held up great despite not being SS.
Bumpers - the last photo I posted is actually a set of european market Jetta bumpers which sit much closer and are much lighter. I previously had run the stock bumpers but had drilled holes in the shock absorbers, released the pressure, compressed, and then tack welded them to stay compressed. That certainly helped a lot but was still not as neat and clean as the euro bumpers. I kept the top plastic covers in place with the tucked bumpers, but had to get creative to keep the clips in place as there was no room to access them on the rear once tucked. I used a nylon tie strap and clip vs the factory clips.
Issues - I recently did a semi-refresh on the car due to a number of small issues that built up, but nothing major related to the rebuild.
Replaced rear wheel cylinders due to leaks, e-brake cables due to age at same time
Replaced fuel tank after my JB water weld repair from 10 years ago finally failed
Patched floor pan due to small bit of rust that popped up
I fought engine gear oil leaks for a few years and finally solved those. I somehow had ended up with a mismatched 020 transmission case and selector shaft cover, and did not have the case vented as a result. I put a few flange seals in only to have them leak. Once we figured out the pressure/vent issue, I drilled a hole and put a vent in and no problems since.
I had a water leak in the cabin from my AC condensate water, a problem most don't have due to broken systems! Fixed that up as well.
I did some interior upgrades, new carpet, later Cabriolet speaker pods to support larger speakers, etc.
Went through earlier last year and cleaned up some of the engine bay wiring better, re-routed and wrapped harness and repaired some wiring that was falling apart due to age.
Engine bay is not too bad now on complexity, certainly compared to newer cars. Biggest complaint continues to be the v-belt system in general with AC. It takes a few adjustments over the course of a few weeks when changing belts to get the tension correct, and it's a PITA to work on.