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Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: anarchyx34 on December 11, 2006, 04:32:34 pm
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I sent in a sample of my last oil change to blackstone labs (www.blackstone-labs.com). Got the results back today. I was worried they would find something horribly wrong, mostly due to my own paranoia, but it seems ok. Anyone ever have their oil analyzed?
(http://www.photodump.com/direct/anarchyx34/oilreport.jpg)[/url]
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I've never done it before but have thought about doing it. Did it cost much? Take a long time to get the results?
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$20usd for a standard analysis, $10 extra for a TBN, which tells you how much life the oil had left in case you're interested in extending oil change intervals. They had it ready the day after they received the sample.
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i want to install the fs 2500 bypass filter and get oil analysis done when i would normally change the oil :)
pretty neat, 5000 mile on synthetic... pretty cool
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Why get a fs 2500? why not get one of those toilet paper ones that are way cheaper?
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Why get a fs 2500? why not get one of those toilet paper ones that are way cheaper?
its the science that goes into the fs 2500 filter cartridge. the paper towel one might be okay, but doesn't guarantee it will get rid of the smaller particles.
With the fs2500 filter, the outer most filter media catches the larger particles. each subsequent layer catches even smaller particles, until it reaches the last layer that catches right down to 3-4 microns or so.
imo that is very efficient. why try to catch all sizes of particles on multiple layers of filter media? it would clog up in no time... plus toilet paper can and will break off into your oil :shock:
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I get mine done at the local Cat dealer for twelve dollars. Gives me ppm, viscosity, heavy metals. More than I have smarts enough to use. Mostly I use it to judge the condition of the old oil.
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Why get a fs 2500? why not get one of those toilet paper ones that are way cheaper?
I use toilet paper for its intended use- wiping my a$$. I'll stay with filters to clean my oil, thank you.
TP filters "made sense" in the fifties, but we have real science now, and far better filter media than TP. Of course, if/ when I see scientific testing that indicates that TP is just as good, I'll consider it, maybe, for someone else's motor, but not mine.
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Many people run TP as a bypass filter, I don't feel like searching for it though. It's on www.bobistheoilguy.com
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Do you have a temp guage on the engine oil? Excessive heat may be the cause of the increased viscosity.
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Do you have a temp guage on the engine oil? Excessive heat may be the cause of the increased viscosity.
doesn't extra heat make oil thinner? i know that dino will turn into a sludge if its overheated..
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No oil temp gauge. Should I get one? I was always under the impression that the oil in these cars ran pretty cool.
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Anyone ever have their oil analyzed?
Many people have over at http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/ (BITOG). One of their many forums is actually devoted to used oil analysis in diesel engines. Be warned, if you have never explored BITOG, it can be addictive.
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I posted a link to this thread over at BITOG a few days ago. We only have one UOA over there from a 1.6TD, Rat407's ECO. I will post a UOA from my '92 ECO when I drain to tear down the engine. It would be cool if you could register over there and post these results in the diesel UOA section, or I can do it for you.
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No oil temp gauge. Should I get one? I was always under the impression that the oil in these cars ran pretty cool.
not in the turbo diesels. the turbo heats the oil quite well (main reason there is an oil cooler)
it would be wise to get at least an oil pressure gauge, so you can estimate better when the engine is warm enough to rip :)
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Glad to see someone else has an oil report on a 1.6. I had mine done as well in my 91 ECO Jetta. I posted on BITOG.COM Yours isn't to much different than mine except for the iron and since I have an oil pressure problem that I think explains mine iron. Check it out here (http://theoildrop.server101.com/forums/showflat.php?Cat=0&Board=UBB26&Number=760121&Searchpage=1&Main=760121&Words=+Rat407&topic=&Search=true#Post760121)
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ACCESS DENIED :(
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Don't understand why you can't view it but here is what I posted.
1991 VW Jetta Turbo
Total miles 19,477 (since rebuild)
Miles on oil 6,230
AMSOIL 15w-40
Oil filter Mahle OC51
Air filter Mahle Paper
Sample date 11/01/06
Oil was in vehicle for 5 months. 2Qt makeup
First run with AMSOIL, before this was Rotella
Mix of highway and city miles put on vehicle
Aluminum..........6
Chromium..........4
Iron.................99
Copper..............6
Lead.................3
Tin....................1
Molybdenum.......5
Nickel................1
Manganese.........1
Silver................0
Potassium..........0
Boron...............18
Silicon..............4
Sodium.............3
Calcium.........3717
Magnesium.......29
Phosphorus......1028
Zinc................1166
Barium.............0
Viscosity
.81.3
Flashpoint F
.440
Fuel%..............0.5
Coolant%
..0.0
Water%
..0.0
Insolubles%......0.4
TBN/TAN
..9.9
I had the engine completely rebuilt three years ago this coming spring. I have an oil pressure problem, that being I have no oil pressure at operating temp. I get 20psi at cold start up but when the oil warms up it drops to zero and stays there. The gage is good as everything in the engine is new. That oil pressure reading is at the head. I have oil volume just no pressure. If you take my cam cover off you will get soaked by the oil that flows up there around the cam and lifters. Engine smokes on startup. The shop that did the head messed up on it obviously for the smoke I'm getting. I go through a qt of oil every 3k miles. Running a stock Mahle OC51 oil filter and a stock Mahle paper air. The injection pump has been rebuilt and tweeked so I'm getting plenty of fuel. If I run up the RPM's with about 15PSI of boost I can get a nice black cloud of smoke. Needless to say nobody tail gates me. I get lifter tap, some days bad and some days not at all. I figure it is from the oil pressure issue. I just turned 20k total miles on the engine since I had it rebuilt. It was broke in on Rotella SAE 30 for the first 500 miles and then 3k after that and then 15w-40 rotella at 3k miles up until I put the AME in. I always run a Mahle OC51 oil filter. I had the K14 turbo rebuilt when I did the engine and I installed a 2.5" down pipe off the turbo and it runs 2.5" all the way back to a flowmaster muffler. My best fuel mileage has been 52.7mpg. On average I get 46-49. This sample I have ran about 14 gallons of waste veggy oil mixed in with the diesel at a 50/50 mix. It sure seemed to like that, ran smoother than on regular diesel and smoked less. That is about all I can think of for now. Again, comments welcome.
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Do you have an oil pump for a mechanical head installed on a hydrolic lifter head?
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Do you have an oil pump for a mechanical head installed on a hydrolic lifter head?
No. I changed the pump out twice just in case and it is for a TD. I'm thinking there is an issue with the head its self. Something with the casting. From reading the previous owners maintenance records all was well with the car up untill he broke a timeing belt and had the head replaced at 110K. Then when the car was in for maintenance after that for what ever reason the service department noted a few times on the oil pressure light coming on but the oil level was full. I have oil flow/volume just no pressure. If you take the cam cover off you would get soaked from all the oil up there around the cam.
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Do you have an oil pump for a mechanical head installed on a hydrolic lifter head?
No. I changed the pump out twice just in case and it is for a TD. I'm thinking there is an issue with the head its self. Something with the casting. From reading the previous owners maintenance records all was well with the car up untill he broke a timeing belt and had the head replaced at 110K. Then when the car was in for maintenance after that for what ever reason the service department noted a few times on the oil pressure light coming on but the oil level was full. I have oil flow/volume just no pressure. If you take the cam cover off you would get soaked from all the oil up there around the cam.
the pump is for a TD, but there is a huge difference between the hydraulic pump and the mechanical pump. the hydraulic lifter engines require a bigger pump to deliver more oil. if you have the mechanical lifter oil pump, then that would explain the low oil pressure.
um as far as i know, oil should not be 'spraying' you at idle. maybe there is something that is releasing all the pressure up top... which is not good for the rest of the engine.. such as the oil squirters (they require 1.7 bar to open... therefore you are not getting the benefits of piston cooling)
i would definitely get it checked out asap. wouldn't want to ruin a nicely rebuilt motor!