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21
IDI Engine / Re: Awakened from a long slumber....
« Last post by westcoaster on March 16, 2024, 10:59:21 pm »
Not an inlet turbo seal....

Removed the rubber 90* intake elbow from the turbo, started the engine, gave it a couple minor revs with a paper shop towel in front of the turbo outlet (intake air) and not a drop of oil was found on the towel....

Edit: the burning oil smell on startup leaves rings or valve guide seals.

I'm leaning toward valve guide seals as there is a strong odour of burnt oil immediately on startup that dissipates after running for a bit...
22
IDI Engine / Re: Awakened from a long slumber....
« Last post by westcoaster on March 16, 2024, 10:42:39 pm »
Correct, It hasn't been insured since 2018 but has been started intermittently since then.
4?, 5? 6?? times... No particular schedule, just whenever I think of it. Brought it up to temperature then shut off.

I can check the inlet turbo seal.

Would the white towel held up to the exhaust flange simply tell you that the engine is processing oil and not differentiate between rings, valve guide seals or turbo seal?
Not sure how removing the exhaust flange will tell me any difference? (post turbo)

Yes, it's been a couple days since I have last been on here... :P

23
IDI Engine / Re: Awakened from a long slumber....
« Last post by ORCoaster on March 16, 2024, 10:08:35 pm »
So you haven't insured it for a long time but have you been starting it every so often in the last several years?

I can tell you that if your turbo seal is blown you can pop off the exhaust flange on it and you will see the oil on a white towel held up to the outlet when you race the engine.  That is for the exhaust side. 

Pop the inlet hose off and do the same on the blower side just before it goes into the manifold.  Don't do what I did and just remove the hose and race the engine.  My turbo uses that quick 90-degree bend hose that goes to the manifold and I got a nice spray in the face as I leaned over the IP to race it up.  Put up a towel to keep from being blasted.

As for valve guides, they can become dry and maybe get soft again once you run them some.  The danger there that I can see is that you may wear them adversely and they will never seal up again.  Kind of a catch-22 where you need to run the engine to get them oiled but in doing so you may mess them up.

Rings might be a problem too.  Running the engine should get those to work as they should but at times I have heard that they get bound up when they dry out and they don't expand like they should.  Might be from the coke in the burn of the diesel that does that. 

Nice to see you back on the forum after all this time.



24
IDI Engine / Awakened from a long slumber....
« Last post by westcoaster on March 16, 2024, 08:22:15 pm »
For the first time since 2018 I insured my Suzuki Samurai (With 1.9TD AAZ swap)
While the motor "sounds" healthy, seems to drive "ok" it's smokey with a WET exhaust.

I have noticed a burning oil smell upon startup (after sitting weeks/months)

The wet in the exhaust doesn't smell like diesel so is likely oil.

Likely culprits are valve guide seals or piston rings. Turbo seal?

How to determine the source of the wet in the exhaust?
Or do I simply run the snot out of this thing in the hopes it clears up?

What sort of additive? Marvel Mystery Oil?
25
IDI Engine / Re: Booster full of brake fluid
« Last post by ORCoaster on March 15, 2024, 10:27:38 pm »
Today I ran down to Bandon in my new Maverick.  That hybrid is embarassing the VW with its stellar MPG.  The creature comforts have it put to shame anyway. 

Time to start doing yardwork, the sun will be out ALL WEEKEND.  I may need to find some sunscreen and some shorts.
26
IDI Engine / Re: Booster full of brake fluid
« Last post by Rabbit79 on March 15, 2024, 03:02:48 pm »
Quote
So, now to do something else with it.  We are in for another 5 days of rain so I will have plenty of time to think about what I want to do next.

Don't worry.... you know something will come up.
27
IDI Engine / Re: 1.6IDI Not Fully Rotating/Not Starting
« Last post by RabbitJockey on March 13, 2024, 10:39:42 am »
definitely overkill for that engine, but theyre not very expensive and theyre easier to install and remove. I have seen people claim performance and mpg benefits, which i am sure there are benefits but i doubt it is something you'd be able to easily notice among all the other factors that affect those 2 things.
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IDI Engine / Re: 1.6IDI Not Fully Rotating/Not Starting
« Last post by RustyCaddy on March 13, 2024, 02:39:30 am »
As far as baffled oil pan gaskets this might be another alternative that appears to be in stock but don't know about the quality:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/124316760833
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IDI Engine / Re: 1.6IDI Not Fully Rotating/Not Starting
« Last post by fatmobile on March 11, 2024, 11:45:43 pm »
  I always like to check the I-shaft bearings.
 They can't be changed without dropping the engine but they will cause low oil pressure if they are bad.
 The timing belt should be changed and that would be a good time to pull the I-shaft out and take a look.

 The oil pan gasket linked above might be a little overkill for an old NA Rabbit.
 But it's nice to see they are cheaper than they used to be. They were quite expensive for awhile.
 I think they have to fit on over the oil pump, then the pan gets put on. Been awhile since I installed one of them.
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IDI Engine / Re: 1.6IDI Not Fully Rotating/Not Starting
« Last post by ORCoaster on March 11, 2024, 09:53:25 pm »
Good to know all of this. 

I ran WVO in a Rabbit for a while and then the price of diesel went so low it didn't pay to run it.  I think it would now.  I also ran two hot plates for the oil warming up.  One right before the IP and the other just before all the filters.  I didn't like the temperature drop I had going with the Racor filter.  I had individual temp sensors on the inlet and filter areas.  They were pretty cool blue looking things that ran on 12 vdc.

Thanks for keeping us up to date.  Enjoy the cleaning and rebuilding.  Next stop, Getting it to run. 
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