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For Sale/Looking For => Parts for Sale/Wanted => Topic started by: ilikevwdiesel on November 15, 2011, 02:18:33 pm
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SOLD
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ok i don't know what im doing but wondering if i can take your part as is and install it on my 85 jetta with a t3 in it?
or are there parts of this im going to have to fix and will i need all new oil lines and rubber boots?
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it will go right where a T3 is yes.
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it will go right where a T3 is yes.
isnt the downpipe flange different?
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no a T3 has a square flange as does a K24. A K24 turbo will replace a T3 without changing any other parts.
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no a T3 has a square flange as does a K24. A K24 turbo will replace a T3 without changing any other parts.
i knew they were both square flanged, but thought they were different sizes..
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nope. they're the same. check etka there's only one oil line, intake boot, cast exhaust elbow, etc.
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i should get this. just curious any clue what difference i might notice with mine and the acn tranny?
when im cruising around @ 70mph in 5th gear the turbo is barely boosting, my pedal is light. When I hit the pedal to pass people there is a pause then the boost hits and it starts to pull but the revs aren't high like in the lower gears where I find the car to be pretty awesome to drive :)
I have noticed with a little load and attacking hills that I would have to speed to get the car to keep pulling. But at that spot its easy to hit the hill and then just hold where its at and it can't recover. But if I took it faster the car would pull better. Guess its a rev thing?
Also I have the stock bov still in the car, no boost controller.
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It is the nature of the KKK K24 turbo. It has a little lag, shift and you should be ok. Get a manual boost controller and you may like it even more.
BTW, I would like to have this unit as a spare, but funds aren't as good as it could be this time of year.
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Main reason for wanting a K24/T3 is that you plan on running 15-24ish PSI. Either of those two will run that kind of boost all day long without issue. The K14 is good to about 15-18 and the K04 is good to about 12-15. If your goals include 20+ PSI boost on a 1.6TD then the K24 is exactly what you're looking for.
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Main reason for wanting a K24/T3 is that you plan on running 15-24ish PSI. Either of those two will run that kind of boost all day long without issue. The K14 is good to about 15-18 and the K04 is good to about 12-15. If your goals include 20+ PSI boost on a 1.6TD then the K24 is exactly what you're looking for.
or a VNT :)
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why did they put this and the t3 on the cars then with the blowoff thing in place?
i have an engine with 200,000 miles that seems to work and pull fine, i am scared to go beyond the stock setup as far as boosting and all of that or is there some reliable number people use with a stock old setup when that blowoff valve is disabled?
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why did they put this and the t3 on the cars then with the blowoff thing in place?
i have an engine with 200,000 miles that seems to work and pull fine, i am scared to go beyond the stock setup as far as boosting and all of that or is there some reliable number people use with a stock old setup when that blowoff valve is disabled?
VW removed the overboost protection in the mid 80s IIRC.. they didnt even think it was very necessary.
basically everyone here has it removed.
take it off, stick a wine cork in it, and then bolt it back on..
or do like i did, and bolt it closed.
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ok so i do that and then with no boost control what does this turbo want to do with stock fueling?
what would my t3 want to do?
and how much boost do i dare set the car to that has 200,000 miles but seems to work ok? my goal is economy
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ok so i do that and then with no boost control what does this turbo want to do with stock fueling?
what would my t3 want to do?
and how much boost do i dare set the car to that has 200,000 miles but seems to work ok? my goal is economy
T3 and K24 spec out as identical.. K24 spools like 1-200 rpms before the T3 ive heard...
your T3 will perform almost exactly like a K24..
a T3/K24 will make 20psi all day long no problem.. but they spool late.
a VNT will also make 20psi all day long, but they spool quick..
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ok so i do that and then with no boost control what does this turbo want to do with stock fueling?
the wastegate controls the boost pressure limit. the overboost valve on the intake doesn't ever do anything unless the wastegate fails.
if you were to do nothing but block the overboost protection, you would notice ZERO difference.. but if you turned up your fueling, and added a boost controller, then you could make it have more power.. do the gov mod, and turn up the fuel screw even more, then it would be a ROCKET..
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what if the wastegate fails and there is no bov with stock fueling? is there no way it will reach levels to blow a head gasket?
also just to make sure im on the right page, i can literally throw this on my car right now? kinda looks the same as well as the drain hose.
but does my oil feed line bolt right up to this exactly since its a hard line?
also how would i hook up a boost controller to this one?
thanks!
i can't quite tell what is going on with my setup. no noises and i can hear it whine when boosting. but i wonder about it. i can see oil come through the boost gage line. and it looks like there is fresh oil where the turbo halves are mated and bolted. it also looks like oil is somehow flung on the heat shield behind it. also there is a pool of oil from the top of that thing the lda hose goes into and its seeping down to where the manifolds bolt up. i know my valve cover gasket is leaking, i plan on using great stuff on that soon, but i can't pinpoint the oil from higher up. the 2 rubber hoses on the turbo appear to be dry where they are clamped.
months ago due to a bad exhaust leak and a broke stud and most that were hand loose, i broke it all down and got new studs/bolts/gaskets and resealed everything. it was all dry for a while. also i broke the threaded part off the housing on my turbo where the hardlines interconnect and jbwelded it back on and clamped it in place while it dried. then i used loctite and tightened it down and it has held for a few months! not even a drop of oil there but i feel like im on borrowed time and plan on throwing it away and putting another turbo in.
just want to make sure i can drag and drop and not hurt my mileage :)
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BTW: The Gillis valve boost controller is just a $9 pressure regulator from Graingers with a small hose barb soldered on and they work very well. They tend to be more "binary" that just a wastegate actuator since the WGA sees no pressure at all until the max boost setting is reached.
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why would you disable your wastegate?
even if the turbo starts boosting like crazy, its not gonna do anything bad on stock fueling. stock fueling wont allow it to build enough boost..
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Its not boost that will push a HG out, but rather cylinder pressure which is limited by both air and fuel. All the boost in the world with little fuel won't give you much hp or cylinder pressure, just low EGTs.
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Its not boost that will push a HG out, but rather cylinder pressure which is limited by both air and fuel. All the boost in the world with little fuel won't give you much hp or cylinder pressure, just low EGTs.
yes, and cylinder pressure has a direct relation to drive pressure, and back pressure.
high drive pressure is REALLY BAD.. you lose the head off the block if its BAD ENOUGH.
ask me how i know?!
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i had a k24 with a stuck wastegate, when i first got the engine it was annoying cause it would build boost then at 12psi the bov would open and kill all the power. then i plugged that up, and with a stuck wastegate i never saw more than 15psi of boost. more fuel made more boost.
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i had a k24 with a stuck wastegate, when i first got the engine it was annoying cause it would build boost then at 12psi the bov would open and kill all the power. then i plugged that up, and with a stuck wastegate i never saw more than 15psi of boost. more fuel made more boost.
thats what i figured, because im running a wastegateless turbo, and fueling is the only thing that regulates my boost.
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yes, and cylinder pressure has a direct relation to drive pressure, and back pressure.
high drive pressure is REALLY BAD.. you lose the head off the block if its BAD ENOUGH.
ask me how i know?!
ROR, what do you mean by drive pressure?
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yes, and cylinder pressure has a direct relation to drive pressure, and back pressure.
high drive pressure is REALLY BAD.. you lose the head off the block if its BAD ENOUGH.
ask me how i know?!
ROR, what do you mean by drive pressure?
drive pressure only has to do with turbo engines..
drive pressure is the pressure between the exhaust valve, and turbine inlet (exhaust manifold pressure, if you will) ideal drive pressure is 1:1, meaning for every pound of boost you pump into the engine, the drive pressure rises 1 pound also. most turbos arent that efficient tho, thats why i said IDEAL drive pressure is 1:1..
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BUMP WANT IT GONE MAKE AN OFFER!
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If you still have this let me know what you will take :)
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If you still have this let me know what you will take :)
sorry sold it. post has been updated.