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Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: flowmastergfunk on May 29, 2012, 10:45:00 am
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Hi there group! I have been a long time observer of the forum and just finally figured out what it takes to create a login! This being my first post here, I would like to take just a second to introduce myself, my project and a hint of our story.
Dub nasty, aptly named by my girlfriend and I after trying to keep a white diesel clean from diesel smoke, first came into my possession just over 5 years ago. It was my first VW, first front wheel drive car and my first diesel. I bought it from my best friends dad for a humble $1000 dollars. It didn't take long for me to completely fall in love. Living on top of a very steep hill at the time, it didn't take long before I followed advice from Mr. Vince Waldon on how to get a little more UUMPH out of the pump. Second was to completely revamp the suspension so that I wouldn't have to slow down on corners any more ;D
Let's fast forward to the jetta's current state. I sold her to my girlfriend almost 3 years ago because I had lost my license for a period of time. She was also INSTANTLY in love with this car (Arguably more than myself!)! Somewhere down the line, fifth gear started falling out when you let off the accelerator. Then one day on the freeway, POOF! 5th gear left us completely! Late last year, I heard a strange noise when she pulled up to the house. I pulled of the timing belt cover only to discover the worn down belt hanging on by a thread! The intermediate pulley had decided to shake loose and the shaft was ruined! It took a while to find the parts and save up for the project, but after almost 300,000 miles, I figured that the engine and trans should get a complete rebuild while they were out. That is when I opened Pandora's box...
I will load some pictures shortly, but I have a plethora of parts strewn about, ready to be joined together in harmony. Although I have been a mechanic for 7 years, I never really had the spare time or a place to start this project until now. I left my shop about 3 months ago so that I can be with my father during the day, who has early onset dementia. I come over when is wife leaves for work and spend the whole day with him until she gets home. In turn, I have a full garage to keep my tools and work on projects while I am here. This project is very special to me because not only is this car my first love and I get to build it for the love of my life, but I also get to do my first FULL rebuild with my best friend. :)
I find myself to be a competent mechanic and I certainly have most of the tools that I need to get the job done. I also have done a lot of research over the years and I know how to utilize resources such as the FAQ and the SEARCH feature ;) I did order a Bentley manual a few weeks ago but it was a digital version, which proved to be worthless. My Bentley BOOK should be here in a few days but I may have some questions before then...
All that being said, it is a pleasure to finally be a part of such a wonderful forum and I look forward to all advice and constructive criticism. I also hope that my build will help fill in the blanks for any questions that other n00bs might have for years to come. Cheers gentlemen!
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Photobucket has been misbehaving all morning but I finally got access to some pictures!
(http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i248/flowmastergfunk/Rocket%20car/PICT0165-1.jpg)
This is pretty much how it was when I got it minus the big bumper and the american racing wheels. I then redid all the bushings and ball joints, put new Bilstien HD's and Neuspeed springs all the way around, added Autotech front and rear swaybars and a Neuspeed strut brace.
Somewhere down the line it started looking like this
(http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i248/flowmastergfunk/Rocket%20car/l_dece277b031128055e127c799368593e2.jpg)
Now it looks like a flea market threw up all over my garage floor!
(http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i248/flowmastergfunk/Rocket%20car/DSCF0064.jpg)
The body is at my other house right now so I will post pictures of the sad little thing when I get home. Mind you, it has been sitting for a year and it had since been rattle canned black :-\
Here is one of the goodies I found last weekend at the junk yard. I found some Eurosport headers on an 8v! I have heard a lot of mixed emotions about running headers on a diesel, but since they were $25 dollars instead of $400, I figured I would clean them up and give it a shot. I was just looking for a dual downpipe!
(http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i248/flowmastergfunk/Rocket%20car/DSCF0035.jpg)
cut off the old flex pipe and wire wheeled them clean
(http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i248/flowmastergfunk/Rocket%20car/DSCF0036.jpg)
also picked up a new flex pipe. The rest of the exhaust was already done on the car but it still had the toilet bowl collector. I can't remember if it is 2 inch piping or 2 1/4 but it is just straight pipe with a dynomax turbo muffler.
(http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i248/flowmastergfunk/Rocket%20car/DSCF0037.jpg)
(http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i248/flowmastergfunk/Rocket%20car/DSCF0039.jpg)
I also found a non ac model there so I got the alternator pulley for my A/C delete.
(http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i248/flowmastergfunk/Rocket%20car/DSCF0067.jpg)
I got a head start cleaning and priming some parts. I want to keep the whole engine bay black so that it looks more clean cut.
(http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i248/flowmastergfunk/Rocket%20car/DSCF0040.jpg)
I wire wheeled the block a bit before I sent it to the machine shop, but now it is REALLY clean! I still have to paint this beast.
(http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i248/flowmastergfunk/Rocket%20car/DSCF0066.jpg)
Reusing the pistons and rods with new rings and bearings. This is uncharted territory for me! As terrified as I might be, I am anxious and excited to finally put together the bottom end of a motor. This is where I am going to need a lot of advice and that bentley! I haven't even tried to put rings onto a piston before! I am still not 100% sure if I need to replace the main bolts crank bolt or rod bolts. I debated on ordering a bunch of ARP hardware, but since this isn't some crazy boosted build, I figured it was not needed. Would it also be correct that I am NOT to use loctite on any of these bolts?
(http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i248/flowmastergfunk/Rocket%20car/DSCF0068.jpg)
Furthermore, I had ordered a 0.71 5th gear syncro set off of ebay a while back with the intent of putting it into my ACN transmission that was with the car. Unfortunately, when I pulled off the 5th gear housing I found that someone had WELDED the gear onto the pinion shaft! The day that my 5th gear "disappeared" was the day that the weld spun free. Everything was FUBAR.
I then found this FF tranny on ebay for $125 shipped. I am not sure if it is any good yet but I figure it is worth a shot!
(http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i248/flowmastergfunk/Rocket%20car/DSCF0065.jpg)
Well as you can see, I still have plenty of painting and parts cleaning to do until my bentley gets here. Back to the dirty drawing board!
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Lookin' good :)
But, I have two words for you: tur. bo. ;D
It'll make it so much more fun to drive, especially in a mk2 chasis.
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just pissin on your ff tranny.. lacks the 3 bolt holes for the mk2 rear mount...
now if you wanna swap tranny cases... possible... but requires you to reshim the diff and pinion shaft bearings... this takes some skill/knowledge.. do it wrong and it will wipe out tranny..
you will also have to use the ff nose cone as its different for the different length pinion shft.. ff shorter.. the newer one has a added bearing that supposedly helps prevent the "weld mod" from being required.. but as you see/saw.. did not..
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But, I have two words for you: tur. bo. ;D
hahaha and my two word reply is "Wife's Car!" I have to save all the turbo fun for my own car when the time comes ;D
just pissin on your ff tranny.. lacks the 3 bolt holes for the mk2 rear mount...
now if you wanna swap tranny cases... possible... but requires you to reshim the diff and pinion shaft bearings... this takes some skill/knowledge.. do it wrong and it will wipe out tranny..
you will also have to use the ff nose cone as its different for the different length pinion shft.. ff shorter.. the newer one has a added bearing that supposedly helps prevent the "weld mod" from being required.. but as you see/saw.. did not..
I should have known! I researched fitting a 4 speed into the car as I could have used a free one for temporary use. I then discovered the difference in cases and the lack of holes. Of course it is the same for the 5 speed. hahaha wonderful. I have had nothing but bad transmission luck with this car! When I first bought the car I had a wrecked grey market car for parts too. This was long before I knew any of the trans codes but it was an authentic german diesel transmission. I had it cleaned and ready to put in with my new clutch kit. The day before I went to swap it in, someone came through my back alley and stole the transmission and some other metal out of my yard for SCRAP! I hope he enjoyed that $30 dollars worth of booze or drugs that he bought as much as I have been enjoying the years of unsuccessfully hunting for another diesel trans >:(
Oh well. Looks like I have a MK1 trans for sale! Unless I want to keep it around for the turbo diesel cabriolet I have always wanted to build! ;)
I got some good parts cleaning done yesterday but I am still trying to find a place that carries engine primer so that I can get the block done. Bentley should come in the mail today!
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I was wondering if you cannot drill the ff case to accept. I haven't looked at them personally, CRSMP5, what do you say? Is there enough room to make a bracket if you cannot?
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I was wondering if you cannot drill the ff case to accept. I haven't looked at them personally, CRSMP5, what do you say? Is there enough room to make a bracket if you cannot?
not enough room to make a bracket. or enough room to build the mount strong enough..
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I just went down to dixiline to grab some more paint and ran into a guy with a rad MK1 rabbit that I have seen flying around for a good while! I ended up talking to him about it to see if he needed or knew anyone that needed a MK1 diesel trans. He actually told me first hand how he had tried to get a MK1 trans in a MK2 jetta. He said he got it to work temporarily but ended up dying from catastrophic failure eventually! Newer transmissions bolt into a MK1 easily though. He was running a 2.0 and 5 speed from a 97. Fortunately for me, he is going to check around in his clique to see if he can find a new home for the ff or find a MK2 trans for me. I love the way that dubbers like us instantly bond when out in the real world. We have an amazing family! Apparently, $125 is the going price for any transmission at ecology so if I sell this one for what I paid, I can pick up another from the wrecker. I would rather just find a working diesel trans but at least I have that 5th gear syncro to swap in if I find a decent gasser tranny.
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if it was that simple.. id not told him he needed to change the case halfs.. and the reshimming requirement to do so... :P if you know what your doing with proper lit.. thats say a newbie.. 8-10 hr job... 6 for person like me.. but hell 3-4hr is just cleaning/inspection..
so he has the info if he wants to try that...
ff was stock 78-80 all 5 speed... then came fn i think.. then 1.8 got close gear ratio.. rest fn.. then mk2....
yep all 020 fit mk1... just till 84 they lacked the casting for the mk2/mk3 mount..
wish 020 went that cheap here.. more like 450 and rebuild/inspection.. last one i got needed a diffpin that was bout to poke a hole, the 150$ small reverse gear and 120$ diff bolt kit as they fail too easily...
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I just went down to dixiline to grab some more paint and ran into a guy with a rad MK1 rabbit that I have seen flying around for a good while! I ended up talking to him about it to see if he needed or knew anyone that needed a MK1 diesel trans. He actually told me first hand how he had tried to get a MK1 trans in a MK2 jetta. He said he got it to work temporarily but ended up dying from catastrophic failure eventually! Newer transmissions bolt into a MK1 easily though. He was running a 2.0 and 5 speed from a 97. Fortunately for me, he is going to check around in his clique to see if he can find a new home for the ff or find a MK2 trans for me. I love the way that dubbers like us instantly bond when out in the real world. We have an amazing family! Apparently, $125 is the going price for any transmission at ecology so if I sell this one for what I paid, I can pick up another from the wrecker. I would rather just find a working diesel trans but at least I have that 5th gear syncro to swap in if I find a decent gasser tranny.
theres alot of gasser trannies out there with even better ratios then most of the actual diesel trannies..
im more partial to the ACN style trannies.. theres about 4 in that group, all identical gearing.. 2600rpms @ 60mph.
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I didn't mind the ACN when I had it in working order. I felt like 4th gear could have been a bit taller for my taste. I would very much like to do a full rebuild on an 020 and "choose my own adventure" eventually, as far as gearing goes. It seams like the 3rd 4th and 5th from the FF (which is an '81 by the way) would have RIDICULOUSLY long legs with the 3.67 final drive. I am sure it would get a little slower under acceleration but millage would likely be glorious! Seems like I would be doing 80 at 3000rpm if the engine felt like supporting it. I am not as seasoned as many of you and I would have to really FEEL the differences in ratios to make a firm decision. It is a growing and learning process!
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Well, I have been staring at my Bentley for hours like a teenager catching wind of a hustler for the first time. I feel like I could put that motor together in my sleep now...and as much as I read it, I am sure it will carry on into my dreams.
The manual states to torque...
Main bearing caps down at 48ft. lb.
Rod caps at 22ft. lb.with an additional 1/4 turn
and the lubricated crank sprocket bolt at 111ft. lb.
It doesn't mention that any of these bolts need to be replaced (like the head bolts) so I am going to reuse them since nothing is going to see boost. Are there any bolts that should get some blue loctite?? I know I would like to put some on the bolt for the intermediate shaft because I never want to see that stupid thing come loose ever again! Just kinda curious if any of the other important bolts should get any.
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Well, I have been staring at my Bentley for hours like a teenager catching wind of a hustler for the first time. I feel like I could put that motor together in my sleep now...and as much as I read it, I am sure it will carry on into my dreams.
The manual states to torque...
Main bearing caps down at 48ft. lb.
Rod caps at 22ft. lb.with an additional 1/4 turn
and the lubricated crank sprocket bolt at 111ft. lb.
It doesn't mention that any of these bolts need to be replaced (like the head bolts) so I am going to reuse them since nothing is going to see boost. Are there any bolts that should get some blue loctite?? I know I would like to put some on the bolt for the intermediate shaft because I never want to see that stupid thing come loose ever again! Just kinda curious if any of the other important bolts should get any.
if your engine is new enough to have stretch-type rod bolts, then they need replaced..
my rod bolts in all my engines are the non-stretch-type bolts, and they are torqued to 44 ft lbs..
i believe the HEADS of the bolts are also different looking, thats how you tell them apart..
someone with more info on the topic will chime in, im sure..
main bearing bolts are re-usable tho.
generally the crank bolt is NOT supposed to be re-used.. is it a 6pt, or 12pt bolt? re-torquing a 12pt is a NO NO..
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The crank bolt is certainly a 6 point. The book has 3 different torque specs; one for the 12 point which is not to be reused, one for a 6 point bolt and one for a hex head bolt. Seems like a 6 point bolt and a hex head are the same to me ::)
I looked up the rod fasteners and saw the newer stretch type. Mine are studs, not bolts. I guess these will be ok to use.
I do have a lot more parts to order though! I ended up getting a Prothe gasket kit which was one of the stupidest things I have ever done in my life. I liked the idea that it was affordable and complete but I didn't expect it to be this bad! I had heard negative things about his products before but I figured I would give him a shot. The head gasket was damaged, there are two water pump gaskets, NEITHER of which are cut properly, there are no O rings included. The only reason I would ever buy anything from him again is so that ebay will allow me another 80 words worth of negative feedback.
I have started a new parts list. I already got a new headgasket but I am almost debating whether or not to use his headbolts. Last thing I want to do is sheer a bolt off on my final torque! At least while I am waiting for more parts I can finish my painting and figure out how to properly install pistons without breaking a ring...not like that already happened or anything.... :-X
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http://www.gowestyautoparts.com/
Good stuff, cheap. It's where I'm gonna order from when I do my rebuild.
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The crank bolt is certainly a 6 point. The book has 3 different torque specs; one for the 12 point which is not to be reused, one for a 6 point bolt and one for a hex head bolt. Seems like a 6 point bolt and a hex head are the same to me ::)
I looked up the rod fasteners and saw the newer stretch type. Mine are studs, not bolts. I guess these will be ok to use.
I do have a lot more parts to order though! I ended up getting a Prothe gasket kit which was one of the stupidest things I have ever done in my life. I liked the idea that it was affordable and complete but I didn't expect it to be this bad! I had heard negative things about his products before but I figured I would give him a shot. The head gasket was damaged, there are two water pump gaskets, NEITHER of which are cut properly, there are no O rings included. The only reason I would ever buy anything from him again is so that ebay will allow me another 80 words worth of negative feedback.
I have started a new parts list. I already got a new headgasket but I am almost debating whether or not to use his headbolts. Last thing I want to do is sheer a bolt off on my final torque! At least while I am waiting for more parts I can finish my painting and figure out how to properly install pistons without breaking a ring...not like that already happened or anything.... :-X
thats the most funny thing ive ever heard!!!
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thats the most funny thing ive ever heard!!!
I liked that too. ;D Nice build BTW.
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Wire wheeling, scrubing, sanding and spraying is finally starting to get old. Between two different kinds of primer and 3 different kinds of paint (even though everything is black in the end) I have painted all the parts separately with the appropriate temp. rating. That ceramic stuff takes 7 days to cure so I started putting together most of the parts that were painted last week!
ceramic primer
(http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i248/flowmastergfunk/DSCF0010.jpg)
ceramic black
(http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i248/flowmastergfunk/DSCF0012.jpg)
most of the finished parts
(http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i248/flowmastergfunk/DSCF0046.jpg)
I got the front seal, waterpump, oil filter flange, intermediate shaft, oil pump and the vacuum pump all installed.
(http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i248/flowmastergfunk/DSCF0042.jpg)
I also found a use for that Prothe headgasket. I used it just to set the head on it to see how it looks. I really want to paint the head black too but I am contemplating whether of not to just leave it silver. I don't know how well the ceramic would stick to aluminum if it expands and shrinks. If i used the 1200degree flat black paint it wouldn't stand up to leaking diesel. It would rub right off. EVERYTHING else is black though so it would stick out like a sore thumb if I don't paint it!
(http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i248/flowmastergfunk/DSCF0045.jpg)
All the same, I just keep truckin along and slowly but surely, I am making progress!
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Ah, she looks good in black. ;) Nice to see the painted parts. I'm in the middle of painting my block as well, but with Rust Bullet instead of regular paint. If you saw my block you'd understand.
Also on the subject of painding the head I say don't. You'd be able to see leaks with less clarity, and like you said I don't think the paint would take to aluminum very well. And from a style standpoint it would look good as a contrast to your lower end parts. It would also match the unpainted pump and intake, that is if you already haven't painted them too. :P
Good luck and keep up the progress; remember slow progress is still progress!
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be sure to clean all the paint off the belt surface of the IM shaft pulley.. its prolly not a requirement, but it will be easier on the belt.
(http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i248/flowmastergfunk/DSCF0046.jpg)
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Also on the subject of painding the head I say don't. You'd be able to see leaks with less clarity, and like you said I don't think the paint would take to aluminum very well. And from a style standpoint it would look good as a contrast to your lower end parts. It would also match the unpainted pump and intake, that is if you already haven't painted them too. :P
I agree that the head and the pump will accent each other well. The intake is already painted though haha. There were some strange casting defects on the top of the runners that looked like cracks so I ground them down a bit while I was porting and polishing, just to inspect. I ended up smoothing the top between coats of primer to hide any flaws and painted them with the same hi temp ceramic gloss black. I am very pleased with the way the turned out. I believe they will hold up well.
be sure to clean all the paint off the belt surface of the IM shaft pulley.. its prolly not a requirement, but it will be easier on the belt.
Without a doubt. I already sanded it to a shiny bare metal :) I made sure to plug the center before I painted it too so that I didn't get any paint where the shaft mates to it. Good lookin' out though!
After all of this I feel like a better painter than a technician! I still need to order a new set of piston rings. The grant ones that were given to me from the machine shop were apparently a "one size fits all" and I thought I remembered reading somewhere that you are not supposed to file down the piston rings at all. I guess I should have asked more specifically or actually CHECKED the end gap before trying to tap them in. Stupid. Stupid stupid stupid! I suppose we all have to learn some things the hard way, but that ruined my day REAL fast. I was just too anxious. Now I know. I am wondering if it is best to get another set of the same grant rings and buy a proper ring filer? Are there any better rings out there that are direct fit for the 76.98mm pistons with no filing required? This is where my inner n00b is shining through ???
Any and all suggestions would be greatly appreciated :)
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Just buy the Goetze set and never worry. I put mine in the bores and they measured perfectly out of the box and they seat almost instantly.
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Well I am feeling so close to finishing the motor I am going to spend some time dressing up the carcass this weekend. Time to see if we can't pump some life into this thing!
Sadly, This is how she has been sitting for quite some time. I only moved it into the shade under the tree recently. It spent a little time cooking in the sun surrounded by weeds :'(
(http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i248/flowmastergfunk/DSCF0051.jpg)
(http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i248/flowmastergfunk/DSCF0059.jpg)
(http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i248/flowmastergfunk/DSCF0052.jpg)
BTW, those chinese tail lights did not hold up well to the elements. They were a fair price years ago when I bought them...but after getting a ticket for them and then having them melt, shrink and warp...they have turned out to be a complete waste.
(http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i248/flowmastergfunk/DSCF0054.jpg)
I think the interior should dress up well with a little elbow grease.
(http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i248/flowmastergfunk/DSCF0056.jpg)
Here are the recaros that I got at the junkyard. The looked freshly reupholstered and I could not believe my eyes! They were 25 bucks each and they ended up being buy-one-get-one-free ;D
As you can see, I have to finish dressing it up where I removed the raintray and do some serious cleaning and painting in there. I want to do a partial shave just to make it look as simplistic. Maybe leave some sideburns and a soul patch. I don't feel like all the mess of relocating the battery though. I will just have to play it by ear and see how it ends up!
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love your snowflakes
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Nice build. What type of double DIN stereo is that in the console? Did you install it yourself and was it an easy fit? I love the radio delete panel in the dash. I replaced my stolen stereo with a 3 gauge panel, but now I have zero music other than the sound of 1.6 litres of turbo diesel singing along. I love that symphony, but my girlfriend does not...
Wicked score on those recaros.
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The dual din is out of an 07 subaru wrx. I got it for free back when I was installing stereos. It has an in dash 6 cd changer, plays mp3 cd's, has an auxiliary channel and is satellite radio ready. I eyeballed it and thought...that looks like its going to fit in the center console. All it took was a sharp razor and some creative bracketry in the back. I got lucky and it turned out to be a really easy fit. I had it running to an external 4 channel and then a sub amp running out of the 4 channel's pre amp. The only problem is if you ever have your fingers sticking out too far when you shift you can switch cd's on accident sometimes lol. I plan on making a cleaner radio delete once I get my egt gauge and whatnot
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After a slight break I have gotten back to work on the Jetta. I took a pause to fix up my dad's old cherokee so that it is nice enough to find it a new home. I finally got the pistons in with the help of theman53's advice. I bought some Goetze oversized rings and the pistons went in nice and smooth. No filing needed. Direct to spec :) I have since finished putting the head on along with the inside drive belt cover and the injection pump bracket. None of my Prothe bolts have snapped but we will see how they hold on that last 1/4 turn ::) I placed my intake and valve cover on just to get a sneak peak of what is to come. I still need to get an o ring for the oil filter pickup before I put the pan on.
(http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i248/flowmastergfunk/DSCF0079.jpg)
Everything else on the engine looks so clean that I am going to have to armorall the plastic intake !
(http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i248/flowmastergfunk/DSCF0080.jpg)
The biggest trouble that I am having right now is figuring out how to mount and tension the alternator. I am using my 90 amp a/c model with the non-a/c pulley. I did not and do not want to grind down the bracket or alternator so I have been trying to find another way(especially since my parts are already painted). I am leaning towards the approach on mk1ultra.com using a custom bracket and a turnbuckle but I have had no luck finding a quality closed body turnbuckle that I think will fit my needs. I am putting it on the back burner for now to rest at a simmer.
(http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i248/flowmastergfunk/DSCF0078.jpg)
As you can see, The most crucial thing for me to do now is to get that darn injection pump in so I can put on that timing belt!
(http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i248/flowmastergfunk/DSCF0081.jpg)
And just to ease anyone's curiosity, yes that is a BMW 2002 that you keep seeing in the background. That is my stepbrother's project that has been sitting stagnant for 4 or 5 years. Certainly a nice car but I have vowed not to stop in the middle of my project like him! Don't get married, kids!
Now that most everything is done, I cleaned off my work bench and my small strip of space between that darn 02 and my tools.
(http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i248/flowmastergfunk/DSCF0083.jpg)
I also found a nice little treasure while I was cleaning! Looks like I can build a pop tester for my injectors while I am waiting for my injector socket to get shipped to me!
(http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i248/flowmastergfunk/DSCF0082.jpg)
And here is the heart of the project! I just have to clean the outside a little more before I start. I already have my rebuild kit ready to go.
(http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i248/flowmastergfunk/DSCF0084.jpg)
(http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i248/flowmastergfunk/DSCF0086.jpg)
Also, last time I was at the junkyard I saw an old audi 5000 diesel. It was a horrible looking engine and I pray never to have to work on one of those. All the same, I decided to grab the delivery valves incase they were any different or any better. They seem to look pretty similar but certainly different. The assembly on top is the audi and the bottom is the vee dub. The audi plunger says 622 021 and the vw says 622 273. Any benefits of using the new ones?
(http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i248/flowmastergfunk/DSCF0088.jpg)
If I took as much time working as I did cleaning, taking pictures and typing...I would have been done long ago. Lol back to the drawing board!
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I also just got to wondering if that bottle jack is going to work for me. Maybe a 6 ton jack is too strong? I don't want this thing to blow up in my face!
Any body out there that has done a DIY pop tester?
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you RUINED that air box.
congrats, you now have a HOT AIR INTAKE..
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Lol don't worry I have an extra that is completely unmolested in the trunk of the car. That was one of my bright ideas when I was just a puppy. My initial thought was to have a hood scoop that sunk in and aimed right for it along with some sort of plug or cover for wet weather. It was my experiment to try out ram air intake...it made sense to me. Besides, when I got the car it never had any of the ducting going to it anyways so it was still sucking hot air. It certainly makes it sound a lot meaner too.
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Lol don't worry I have an extra that is completely unmolested in the trunk of the car. That was one of my bright ideas when I was just a puppy. My initial thought was to have a hood scoop that sunk in and aimed right for it along with some sort of plug or cover for wet weather. It was my experiment to try out ram air intake...it made sense to me. Besides, when I got the car it never had any of the ducting going to it anyways so it was still sucking hot air. It certainly makes it sound a lot meaner too.
a ram air setup that sucks air from behind the grille is much easier. plus, you dont have to cut up a hood..
LOTS of us used to run ram air setups on our n/a's before we cut teeth and graduated to playing with boosted engines..
i HATE the intake roar that diesels have.. the dual plenum intake i just built, is VERY quiet in comparison to an open n/a air box..
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Looking good, loving how methodical you are.
With ram air, Kawasaki ( i believe) proved that nothing much happened below 100 mph but upto approx 150 it built to approx 5% positive pressure, biggest gains were near top end.
Getting into the dangerous world of fluid dynamics there though!
With n/a's they are tuned because you want to rather than take the sometimes easier and always more powerful route of boosting an engine.
For my sins we have two other mk3 golf's the girlfriends is a 16v gti ( which i want to supercharge) and mine is a vr6.
I could charge mine (either super or turbo) but the old school mechanic in me wants to put 6 throttle bodies, a lairy cam and a decent exhaust on it (perhaps a bore to 3L too!!!)
point being; i could go quicker/get more power with a charger but i will have more fun building a tuned na
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well, from a diesel stand point, there is VERY LITTLE power to be had without boost. there is simply NO WAY to get enough air into the engine to make good power, without making VERY HIGH egts..
a VR, its quite EASY to raise the compression, add cams, make it flow better, and all that..
the amount of upgrade room on a n/a diesel is VERY SMALL..
100hp is about as much as i have EVER seen made with a n/a diesel.. and thats just no fun. you can get more power with boost, hands down.
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I knew from the get-go that a n/a deez is like a lesbian with no tongue and short fingers. There are a few tricks and attachments that can be added for increased performance, but you are only going to get so much out of her. I am just working with what we have. I have already put more money and time into a car that isn't mine...I don't to add a turbo into the equation. Being for my old lady, I just want it to be dependable, get good millage and make it quick enough to dust a stock diesel and the occasional prius. She loved it before so even if it has 5 extra HP after this rebuld, she will be happy.
If I break 80HP, I will tickled, proud and flabbergasted all at the same time.
As for my own projects? I love my dubs but I am a RWD kinda guy. I have a Mercedes 190e 2.6 that I am putting a rebuilt 3.0 into and hopefully a 5 speed. I had a 190d 2.2 that got wrecked but that was my baby! I love that little n/a motor and I had done a lot of mods to it to get more power out of it and make it more simplistic(wayyyy over engineered). I kept the engine and all my custom parts when I scrapped the body but right now I am saving up to gnab another 84 190d that is already a 5 speed for 1000 bucks! :o :o
The VW diesel is MUCH more simplistic and user friendly but since I have been a mercedes mechanic for so long, I have come to love 190's and especially the diesels. I will post about those in the non VW section some day ;)
As for today's progress I got the injection pump all torn apart and wasn't completely happy with what I found. It is a good thing I was planning on resealing it because it was certainly due for a good cleaning at the very least! I also got a turnbuckle and some hardware for my alternator project as well. I couldn't find a closed body one but it is stainless and looks like the quality shall suffice. It might be a little on the ghetto side but anything is better than the stock tensioner with A/C!!! I will post pictures later and I might have a few questions as well.
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If you are used to mercedes diesels then you will appriciate the speed of the VW's LOL. I drove my cousins 300D. It was stock, and did not get up and go at all. If you were rolling at 70mph it had some go, but under that it was not good.
As far as dusting a prius, as much as I hate to admit, your n/a will probably only do that if the prius is behind you getting the black cloud poured on it. Which is what I do EVERY time I have a prius behind me in my diesel, but to each his own.
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wicked sick build brah! i especially like your exhaust runner!
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Those om617 motors that are in the 300d's are tractor motors. As with any diesel, you can get more out of it, but the om60x series are much different. The four cyl is a om601. Pretty cool series since they have hydraulic valves, doing away with adjustments. I found a lot of extra hidden power by deleting the A/C, engine driven fan, EGR crap, modifiying the intake and exhaust and doing a TON of weight reduction on the car. The worst part about these engines is the way they nest the injection pump under the intake and the block access to the back of the pump with the oil filter flange. Not very mod friendly.
I don't want to get too sidetracked though. As stated, I got my injection pump apart. I understand that it you plan on doing a full rebuild, there is much more to it than just replacing seals. I wanted to take it all apart just so that I can get a better understanding of it and I had a feeling it would need a good cleaning. Boy was I right! I tried to take some pictures to give an idea on how it comes apart. I gained guidance from veeman's walkthrough on how to re-assemble it.
I already had the governor spring assembly out of it from a previous day so I don't have pictures of that. I am sure that most n/a people already know how to do that anyways ;)
(http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i248/flowmastergfunk/DSCF0089.jpg)
Then, onward to taking out the delivery valves and the head. As soon as you start taking the head off, you hear parts moving around and your heart stops for a second haha. It's okay. Once you look at all the exposed parts and the order you take them out, it starts to make sense.
(http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i248/flowmastergfunk/DSCF0092.jpg)
That little piston shim falls out first and then the cam rollers can tumble out if you don't have the shaft pointing straight down. Not a big deal if you are taking a pump all the way apart but be extra careful if you are just trying to replace the seal for the head!!!
Taking out the centrifugal governor is fairy easy...just don't be a fool like me! I took the locknut completely off before backing out the shaft with a hex socket. I hope I can get it adjusted just right when I reinstall it but it would be wise to leave the locknut on to help keep track of where the shaft was before removal. Keep me in your prayers when I put this back in lol
(http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i248/flowmastergfunk/DSCF0095.jpg)
After that, I took off the cold start lever and the cover on the opposite side, just to get more parts out of the way
(http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i248/flowmastergfunk/DSCF0093.jpg)
(http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i248/flowmastergfunk/DSCF0094.jpg)
Discovered a fair amount of gunk and surface rust on the shims and spring in the advance mechanism! Ew!
(http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i248/flowmastergfunk/DSCF0096.jpg)
Now to get that roller carrier out, you need use a pick or something like it to take that little clip off of the actuator pin, located at the bottom center of the carrier. Be careful! It wants to fly off!
(http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i248/flowmastergfunk/DSCF0099.jpg)
You will then gain access to this little lock pin. It didn't want to come out with a magnet but needle nose pliers pull it out just fine.
(http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i248/flowmastergfunk/DSCF0101.jpg)
Te actuator pin is pretty snug too but you can sneak it out gently with some needle nose as well. The advance piston will come right out, however, you CANNOT get the carrier out without taking out the governor levers. You CANNOT take out the governor levers without taking out those goofy triangular bolts on the sides of the pump. You CAN make your own socket to get those silly bolts out ;D
(http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i248/flowmastergfunk/DSCF0102.jpg)
I took an extra 13mm socket and ground down 3 sides until it fit over the bolt head. Hazaa!
(http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i248/flowmastergfunk/DSCF0104.jpg)
The carrier and main shaft come right out after that. Don't loose that little woodruff key!
I noticed right away after I took those parts out that there was some abnormal wear on the inside of the cylinder walls. I am not going to stress about it but I was a bit shocked when I saw it.
(http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i248/flowmastergfunk/DSCF0107.jpg)
(http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i248/flowmastergfunk/DSCF0106.jpg)
Moving on, the rotor cover in my pump only has two little phillips screws in it. Don't use a cheap screwdriver because you don't want to strip these!
(http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i248/flowmastergfunk/DSCF0108.jpg)
(http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i248/flowmastergfunk/DSCF0109.jpg)
I pulled this out only to find that this chamber was a MESS! All of the vanes in my rotor were rusted, crusted and seized! Everything was covered in rust and varnish! I couldn't even get the stator out of the pump body! soaked it all in WD over night so hopefully things have loosened up. I plan on wet sanding all of these parts on a flat piece of glass with a very fine piece of sand paper. I sure hope that all of this goes back together nice and smooth!
Does anybody have all of the torque specs for this pump??? Tintin posted pics at the end of veeman's walkthrough but imageshack removed them!!!!!! Any help or advice is appreciated as always ;D
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i literally just about fell over laughing about the Lesbian with no tongue, and short fingers!!
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Unfortunately i don't know the torque specs but that pump looks beautifully made.
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Contact Giles, he is the mighty pump master.. he should have everything you desire..
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I know it has been a while now since I have made an update but the motor is coming along well. I got the oilpan on, injection pump installed, got the drive belt on and the engine timed and I finally got it off the stand to put the rear main and the flywheel on. I lost my memory card so no pix yet but I will post again Monday.
Today I spent the whole day going to 3 different junkyards and looking the best possible match for a transmission. Armed with a print out cheat sheet of the model numbers and gear ratios I revisited a few of the yards. One thing that I would like to point out is that even though cabriolets use MK1 brackets, The late model ones still have updated transmission cases, so they CAN be used with MK2 brackets. Unfortunately, all of the cabby ratios SUCK! The transmission that I ended up getting was a CHE out of a low millage '95 with a 2.0. I had already read that '93 and newer transmissions were known for chewing up reverse gears, but by this point, I am taking the risk. I stated before that I thought my late FF rabbit tranny would be nice with a 3.67 final drive. With the exception of the 0.80 5th gear, the CHE is darn close to the custom gear set that I wanted. 4th gear is an 0.97 instead of 0.91, but that still sounds better than the 1.03 of the ACN. Since I have a spare 0.71 fifth set, I am just going to throw that in and call it good. I hope there aren't any other differences that I was unaware of! I noticed that VW switched to an electronic sensor for the speedo instead of a cable but the hole looks the same. I hope the main spline to the clutch is the same! I will be bummed out if it ends up not working out! I can hardly wait for Monday to come around! As long as my pump rebuild was a success, I hope to have it running by next weekend. Knock on wood! Fuel delivery problems seem like the most common threads that I see in diesel forums. But you know what?...We got this ;)
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Well, looks like I sadly found the answer to my own question...and I am not pleased with the results. Finally found information stating that the CHE transmission that I got has a 24mm mainshaft, like the 16v transmissions. I would still very much like to use this transmission but I am starting to have my doubts that it will work. It seems like I might be able to use a different clutch and pressure plate setup but I have no leads as to what I would need to make this work. Also, If the main shaft is bigger, I don't think I will be able to to use my old 0.71 5th. FML!!!!! I really need to stop buying transmissions that I can't F*ING USE!!!!! Can somebody please give me some guidance or a hug?? Maybe even a god forsaken transmission that will fit my needs? I can't take much more of these 020 woes :(
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99% positive you can use the fifth, it just has to be machined or something like that. The clutch and PP needed are the 210mm setup. Large spline IIRC is 7/8" that is what you will need. Any questions contact broke vw he will help.
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Thank you theman. I have been researching like crazy since I made my last post. I have found that the 210mm clutch is a fairly common upgrade for turbo diesel owners. I read that people are using the 210mm 16v pressure plate for more clamping power, the 210mm 8v clutch plate To match up with their 22mm 020's ( I would use the 16v clutch as well because of my 24mm spline) and capping it all off with a 210mm gasser flywheel. I had a good discussion with my machinist about using lightened flywheels on diesels and he pretty well talked me out of it. I understand that it should wind up a little quicker with the lighter flywheel but diesels are equipped with the heavy flywheel for a reason. The extra weight helps to balance the engine and lightening it will lessen the longevity of your engines internals...it seems pretty self explanatory. I heard that the AAZ has a 210mm flywheel so I wish I could get my hands on on of those...but I have a feeling I will be going back for the one on the 2.0 that I got the tranny from. Switching the clutch setup is an unexpected expense, but at least it is an technically an upgrade. Too bad the other clutch was barely used. Now my biggest concern is swapping that 5th gear. The 0.80 doesn't sound too exciting but I think it might be tolerable for a while. I feel a little less stressed now but I think I might just contact broke for some insight.
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Lightening the flywheel will not lessen the life. If you lighten it and not balance it then it will lessen life. If you have a gasser flywheel then watch out for the TDC mark. Some didn't have one just a mark to time it by, from what I have heard and it is not at TDC. The extra weight was to lessen the vibration on the dash and make it a more pleasant driving experience.
Stock 210mm flywheel weighs 12.6lbs from an aaz, I don't know what a gasser one will be but it will be lighter. It is nuetral balance so all is good.
The 24 spline is what my 020 is and it is small spline 13/16". There is a large spline that I believe is 28 and I know it is 7/8" hole. I think a 16v GTI should be your clutch.
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Well I heard back from Brian AKA Broke VW. That man is a saint! I noted before that his site showed how to modify an 8v 5th gear to fit a 16v 020 but didn't realize the notation stating that the process also applied to the newer 2.0 trannys! I felt like a fool but he was very kind and patient with me for asking a question where the answer was already displayed for all to see. Furthermore, he informed me that if I want to use a 16v pressure plate, I need to use a MK2 flywheel. If I want to use a 2.0 flywheel, I need to use the matching pressure plate. NOW I just need to figure out which route to take. He recommended using the 16v pressure plate because they MK2 flywheels are lighter. I am not opposed to using the heavier 2.0 flywheel, but I am also wondering how the 2.0 spring pressure compares to the 16v pressure plate. I need to compare the weights of the MK2 gas, MK2 diesel and Mk3 2.0 flywheels before I can really make my decision. Once I get my clutch dilemma straightened out I will be ready to toss my motor in and do all the finishing touches!
Today I put on the old flywheel Just to make sure that I had my TDC marks and engine timing perfect. The cam timing was off by a crows hair but now it is dead on. The half of an 020 case in the picture is from my old ACN that I scrapped. I wanted to make an adapter plate so that I could use that case on my engine stand but never got around to it. Not sure if it would have worked out anyways. I also hope my turnbuckle alternator tensioner holds up to the sands of time!
(http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i248/flowmastergfunk/DSCF0120.jpg)
(http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i248/flowmastergfunk/DSCF0121.jpg)
(http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i248/flowmastergfunk/DSCF0118.jpg)
One other problem that I am going to run into is involving the pressure valve in the injection pump. When I had everything apart for the rebuild process, I noticed that the pressure valve looked extra funky. It had a lot of buildup all over it and in the small orifices. I put the pressure valve in a small plastic vile to soak in some brake cleaner(some of you already see where this is going). I planned on soaking it short term and putting it back in with the new seals, but my uncle showed up to visit and distracted me. I remained distracted until it was time for me to leave. I came back the next morning and my pressure valve was encased in a blob of molten plastic like a bug trapped in amber! I ended up popping it apart with a punch and vice and the entire cavity and spring were packed solid with plastic too! I eventually got it all cleaned out and put back together but now I need to get some pressure gauges and figure out how to set the darn thing properly! Hahaha I won't do that again.
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The turn buckle will last. Mine did longer than my precups. I didn't have to tension the belt in 40,000 miles. The only issue you may have is it hitting the radiator. I made a little piece so the angle of the turnbuckle and the alt case didn't come into play. Kept the alt. lower and I had several inches before the rad then.
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Flowmaster, Can you tell us what is that standup on the IP that the OUT banjo is on? Looks like the place to tap into for your gauge to get a reading on the IP now that the pressure regulator is cleaned up.
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Flowmaster, Can you tell us what is that standup on the IP that the OUT banjo is on? Looks like the place to tap into for your gauge to get a reading on the IP now that the pressure regulator is cleaned up.
I am not exactly sure what that riser is. I thought it was standard on the N/A pumps. I did see the thread where someone had tapped into the side of it so that a pressure gauge could be hooked up but I can't recall what the thread was. Link me if anyone knows what thread I am talking about!
The turn buckle will last. Mine did longer than my precups. I didn't have to tension the belt in 40,000 miles. The only issue you may have is it hitting the radiator. I made a little piece so the angle of the turnbuckle and the alt case didn't come into play. Kept the alt. lower and I had several inches before the rad then.
Did you have your turnbuckle under like mine or did you make a bracket to put it on top like the MK1 ultra method? I took the non A/C bracket and hooked it up to my alternator with two bolts going through alternator holes and the curved slot. I may have to wait until the motor is in the car to see if it hits.
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(http://a4.ec-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/117/b22962b003d644068eee183fdf165362/l.jpg)
(http://a3.ec-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/125/5e9b7b050a8f4baf99ad8b3f16b54817/l.jpg)
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I think the link you want went away when all those posted by the individual were deleted enmasse. Might be from the other darkside forum as well. I know what you are thinking about. I may find the link with little trouble if my brain works for me. Brain works but pic is gone.
Care to post that shot again Mr. Diesel? It was a work of art you know.
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(http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a269/libbybapa/Imag0232.jpg)
Nothing special or difficult. If I did it again, I'd stick it on the other end so that I didn't have to stack two of them on TD pumps.
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I'm not 100% sure, but I think the standoff is VW part # 074130349.
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So purrty.
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I finally bit the bullet and sold my truck to finish up the jetta. I didn't even realize how much more money I was going to blow on this project until I started watching it all disappear! Got my new clutch kit, new flywheel and had it resurfaced, new front motor mount, picked up two axles, new taillights, oil, gear oil, new fuel filter and another oil filter for after the break in period, a buttload of paint, some beer and now I am broke. I managed to get all of the missing bolts that I needed from the junkyard for free, so that was a bonus. Here is my new 16v clutch kit and the gasser flywheel that I had resurfaced. The guy did a stunning job and I had it back within a few hours.
(http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i248/flowmastergfunk/DSCF0143.jpg)
I got everything mounted to the motor and got it ready to drop in in one swoop. I pressure washed the car and tranny yesterday and I spent most of today prepping the engine bay and painting. I am going to one more coat of paint early in the morning and hopefully I can fire this thing off tomorrow evening.
Before:
(http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i248/flowmastergfunk/DSCF0145.jpg)
(http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i248/flowmastergfunk/DSCF0144.jpg)
and here is a teaser before tomorrow's battle. I am going to miss being able to see those sexy headers. They are going to be hidden behind everything now :'(
(http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i248/flowmastergfunk/DSCF0151.jpg)
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Damn, that is a sexy header.
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of course the starter was frozen up when I went to crank it for the first time! Why wouldn't it be? I can't afford to get a rebuilt one right now but I am going to open it up today and see if I can free it up. Just my luck! Just when I thought it was over!
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She lives!!!!!!! I took the starter apart only to find that the brushes were wasted. It would have been a simple fix If I could have found the brushes but I broke down and bought a rebuilt anyways. I can't believe how easily she started up! It took a while to bleed 2 of the lines but after I bled them, I hardly had to adjust the idle to keep it running. I didn't run it for too long because I still need to get a belt for the water pump. Theman was certainly right, my alternator bracket hit the radiator. I did rather expect it, but I have devised a revision that I believe will clear. I have the pieces cut but I need someone else to weld them for me tomorrow. I also finally found a closed body turnbuckle at a hardware store today so I bought that to swap it out. Hopefully tomorrow I will have it running and driving so I can get my exhaust guy to mate my headers to my new flexpipe and existing exhaust! Great success!!!!!!!
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Theman was certainly right, my alternator bracket hit the radiator
I thought I was wrong once, but I was mistaken on that ;)
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hahaha I was guessing the same but hoping for the best. I wish I had more tools for fabrication but as of this point, I can only do so much. Knowing my luck, I was really expecting instant catastrophic failure upon start-up. At the very least, I expected to have trouble getting the injection pump dialed in since I had it completely apart. I am going to wait until it drives before I start patting myself on the back too much, but this was a fairly simple and VERY rewarding project. After a full rebuild, this engine and I are now one.
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Progress has been steady with the jetta lately. We got the insurance and registration back up to date on monday, and I took the car down to the exhaust shop to have the rest of the pipe mated to the headers. I had a flange installed between the downpipe and flexpipe so that the shifter box can still be dropped if need be. I have made a lot of observations to many of the new changed and for the most part, I am very pleased with the setup. Even though it is finally running and driving, I am starting to feel far from finished (cosmetics aside)
(http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i248/flowmastergfunk/DSCF0158.jpg)
(http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i248/flowmastergfunk/DSCF0159.jpg)
First, the oil dipstick tube is making a mess out of my beautiful engine! I DO have the metal shim in there but I believe I was given the incorrect o-ring. It is misting everything on the front of the motor with oil and then spraying back on my nice clean subframe! I think I am just going to slather it in form-a-gasket and be done with it. Also, the dipstick that I have doesn't lock onto the tube at all. It is measuring the oil at the correct level but today it actually backed out of the tube a good 6 to 8 inches while I was driving! Yes, I have been driving without a hood. It is nice to be able to keep an eye on things AND R.O.R-2.0 can't diss my "hot air intake" with the nice cool breeze flowing into it ;D
I also need to finish running wire for the lights, fan and glow plug relay. I was planning on stealthing the lighting wires in the frame and bumper but have not really gotten started on the endeavor yet. I THOUGHT the fan was hooked up but it isn't running. It might be as simple as a fuse but I haven't gotten too intimate and started testing everything yet. I have a feeling that I will need to do minor surgery to work around the lack of A/C.
I started to wire up the glowplugs individually with with some good wire, separate fuse block and starter solenoid but I misplaced a length of the wire. Just to get by temporarily, I ran the glowplugs in 2 pairs through 2 fuses. There is sadly too much current for the 20 amp fuses to take. I was just trying to do a temp setup until I found the rest of my wire (which I did). I grabbed some 35 amp fuses today and I am hoping that they will keep me going for a little while.
I also ordered an inline coolant filler neck so that I can delete the coolant bottle and convert to a vented system. The engine bay still looks a little too cluttered to me. I also want to build a nice clean tray and bracket on the passenger side of the engine bay for my filters and such. I am running an old fuel filter that I flushed out a bit and two prefilters until I am done with this first tank of fuel. I did not flush the tank after all the sitting that it has done so this is my lazy way of cleaning it out. There may have only been a couple of gallons at the bottom but who knows what was growing in there haha. I have a brand new factory filter ready to throw in but down the line I may experiment with other aftermarket filters and veggie processing. I have always hated seeing old 240's and 300's coming into my old benz shop with ghetto ass setups and it has always inspired me to try to find a better way. Not in a hurry to set that up yet, but you know.... just in case of zombies or whatever. ;)
I have also noticed some unfortunate movement in the passengers side of the suspension so I will be doing some control arm and sway bar bushings soon. It looks like the old diesel leak already did it's damage to some rubber. I am leaning towards the g60 ones instead of poly but I am looking forward to experiment with both somewhere down the line. I may do some experimentation with motor mounts and inserts as well because I can hear the exhaust hitting pretty hard if you let the clutch off a little to quick under too much of a load.
Now the transmission... holy COW! I replaced all of the shift bushings (even that evil on in the front of the shift box), installed my neuspeed short shifter and weighted shift rod (Complements of the local junkyard) and filled the tranny with Lucas gear oil and some syncromesh. Butter. Sweet, saucy, buttery goodness. I thought the short shifter sounded like a bit of a gimmick given the normal price of the item brand new, but since I got both pieces for $10, I went for it. The shortened throw actually helps out since the recarros that I got are so puffy and invasive. The seats still got in the way of shifting when they were almost all the way back but now it is a bit better off. Every gear soars right in. The CHE ratio thus far is great for cruising. I haven't put in my 0.71 5th gear yet and now I am in no hurry to do it. So far it feel good enough to live with the 0.8 for a while. It can be a little sluggish on big grades but I still have to get the final setup on my pump. I am leaving the fuel turned down moderately during the break in period. I don't want to flog this thing from the start. I still desperately need to get a fuel pressure gauge. I believe I had my timing set at .95 or .96 and I have the max fuel so there is just a kiss of black smoke when you snap the throttle. One thing I need to look back into is one of the mods that I did when I FIRST got the car....
There was one mod listed on the vortex long ago about taking off the front cover on the pump and doing something with the washers in there with the spring. I remember that I had the "green" spring and I did SOMETHING with the shims but I cannot recall what I did. I didn't really think about it again until recently and I didn't really take note of it when I had the pump apart. I believe the article said something about there being 3 shims and to remove the thickest shim. Whatever I did, it seemed to work for me back then. Now, I want to know what I REALLY did! What value did I REALLY change. As a youngster, I just saw it as a modification for more power. Now I am thinking numbers.
This is also my first engine break in so is there any crucial advice that I may have missed out on? I have been pretty gentle with it except for running out the gears a couple of times. I have also been doing occasional spurts of acceleration and then backing off to let the engine slow me down a little. I have not revved the motor too high but I haven't been able to see my RPM's to give any examples. I still haven't put my tach in! I need to do a repair to that stupid ribbon cable of a circuit board that they use!
From memory, I believe that I have seen this car move quicker and I am pretty sure it was LOUDER without the headers...but it still sounds goooooood! I am sure it will make more of a rukkus when I get the fueling all dialed in!
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Green springs and shims removed? Read again.
http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=7781.15
You advanced the timing sooner.
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Nice build! Love that people are still building NA diesels, I wish my 1.6D was that clean!
Excuse my ignorance but why didnt you go with a gti or similar intake manifold?
I cant wait to bolt mine up, even worked a nice flange and piping to a filter.
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Thanks Veector! I have seen a custom g60 intake that may have been in the classifieds here and it really got me thinking about gasser intakes. I am not sure how much bigger the runners are as I have never really looked it up. It certainly crossed my mind how slick it would look with some piping ran out of the way to a cone filter, but I already invested in the K&N for this intake so I decided to stick with it. I will have to look into it more though! Maybe I am doing it all wrong!
My girl and I are taking out first road trip up to a wedding in Napa valley in a week so I am excited to have this thing running so smooth and reliably! I just deleted the coolant bottle and installed an in line filler neck this morning. I never want to go back. I love it. Ran nice and cool today and nothing blew out! Now I just need to find a cool bottle of liquor so I can have a sweet overflow bottle ;)
I am starting to get a little side tracked though because I just got a new toy for 700 bucks last night. This young girl just had the clutch done and they botched the shift linkage so one of the plastic arms just popped off. I tried to show her that it was an easy fix and she was just over it. Looks like honesty is the best policy because she took 100 dollars off of what she was asking....and 800 was already a steal. JH motor with 82,000. Looks like my next project is going to be prepping an ABA block! Getting my control arm bushing done in the jetta is my first goal before the trip but I can't wait to dive into this when I get back.
(http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i248/flowmastergfunk/DSCF0160.jpg)
I might try ou
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If you put those jack stands on pieces of plywood they will be much less likely to tip over and kill you.
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haha good point. I am being a bad role model. I hate working in the dirt PERIOD but the ground where it is parked is rock hard. I don't recommend ever using jackstands in the dirt but I have to get that shift linkage done so I can drive it to my garage and work on it like some sort of professional. I do leave the jack under one side as a fail safe but I wish I had some sturdy wood around. The bank is broke :(
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Just a piece of 3/4" thick plywood a little larger than the base of the stands can make all the difference. Scraps that size can be found at any construction job site. Home depot sells smaller pieces like that also. Go for plywood, not OSB or MDF as the plies distribute the force and withstand moisture better. I have a stack of pieces like that and they come in handy in many ways. They are all pieces that I either picked up when someone else was throwing them away or were leftovers from one of my projects.
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I like 2 by 10 pieces myself. Stout and hardy. Just a bit difficult to store after use.
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Well, the first road trip with dub nasty was mostly a success. We drove all the way up the coast last week, camping along the way, until we got to napa valley. I wasn't able to keep track of the millage but I know when we filled up in napa valley, we made it all the way down to Anaheim on one tank. Then we made it all the way home on less than 5 gallons! We got lucky because we totally ran out of money lol. Unfortunately, I have already decided that I need to ditch the headers. I am going to replace them with the common cast dual-outlet manifolds with a dual downpipe. I just need to find one that has the bracket that secures it to the backside of the engine. Between the heat and the f***ed up pavement through the grapevine, we managed to crack the headers somewhere. I still can't see it, but it just got louder and louder :( It was certainly worth a shot but I really wish it would have lasted for more than one road trip.
Like Travolta said in Pulp Fiction, I "should've f***in better known better". Sad panda. At least after I take the headers off and repair them I have an 8v to put them on! I just wonder if they fit the MK1 chasis well and if they will still clear when I swap in my ABA block
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Well, the first road trip with dub nasty was mostly a success. We drove all the way up the coast last week, camping along the way, until we got to napa valley. I wasn't able to keep track of the millage but I know when we filled up in napa valley, we made it all the way down to Anaheim on one tank. Then we made it all the way home on less than 5 gallons! We got lucky because we totally ran out of money lol. Unfortunately, I have already decided that I need to ditch the headers. I am going to replace them with the common cast dual-outlet manifolds with a dual downpipe. I just need to find one that has the bracket that secures it to the backside of the engine. Between the heat and the f***ed up pavement through the grapevine, we managed to crack the headers somewhere. I still can't see it, but it just got louder and louder :( It was certainly worth a shot but I really wish it would have lasted for more than one road trip.
Like Travolta said in Pulp Fiction, I "should've f***in better known better". Sad panda. At least after I take the headers off and repair them I have an 8v to put them on! I just wonder if they fit the MK1 chasis well and if they will still clear when I swap in my ABA block
you need lower support braces on a header when you run one on a diesel..
just like you figured out, the diesels vibrate like a ***, and the headers the part that vibrates the most, and they crack..
my lower support went from right by the collector, to the engine block, under the axle..
but that was on a mk1.. mk2/3 will be alot harder to add a lower support.
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Harder because of the subframe I suppose? I haven't been able to see where it broke yet but I guess while I am down there I can look around and figure away to build a support bracket before I scrap it.
I can't even recall how the stuck dual outlet mounts to the engine but your description rings a bell. I haven't seen a MK2 in the yard with dual outlet for a long time...I only see the MK3's. This is reminding me that I need to hunt down parts for my MIG and start welding!!
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Harder because of the subframe I suppose? I haven't been able to see where it broke yet but I guess while I am down there I can look around and figure away to build a support bracket before I scrap it.
I can't even recall how the stuck dual outlet mounts to the engine but your description rings a bell. I haven't seen a MK2 in the yard with dual outlet for a long time...I only see the MK3's. This is reminding me that I need to hunt down parts for my MIG and start welding!!
twin tube downpipes used a REALLY FLEXY flex joint between the manifold and downpipe..
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going down to the junk yard today to get some parts for my rabbit and I am going to grab an extra mk3 dual outlet for the diesel. I had a peak at the headers today and decided I am not going to try to fix and brace them. It will be too much work for the time being and I still can't find the parts for my welder to do it myself. I am still sad that the headers were so short lived.
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Well, I am happy I did such a good job on this car. The old lady and I split up. Everything on the car is working so well that she won't call me to fix it.
Project: Complete
Thanks for all of the motivation and advice guys!
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Well, some have you had seen and commented in the for sale section...it developed a problem with the clutch not disengaging so she wants to sell it as is. Unfortunately I don't get a discount because she "needs the money", but I have the chance to buy it from her as is for $2250. Worse case cost is going to be another clutch kit. I just might have to do it! I love this darn car so much :( My rabbit is being a little awkward so I can make this my daily while I throw a 2.0 in the cabby. To be continued?...
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Wow! A whole year has gone by since knocking out this engine! After building up my cabby, it got totaled, twice in a week ( not my fault! >:( ) and ever since then I have been working on a 78 diesel shell that I swapped all my cabby parts over to. I know, it is sacrilege to put a gasser setup into a diesel car, but I was working with the parts that I had and a $500 Shell
(http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i248/flowmastergfunk/DSCF0032_zps120a618c.jpg)
78' "Rabbit C" 2.0l JH/ABA
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5932264-Define-sleeper...
Anywho, the reason I am digging this up is because the chick that bought Dub Nasty is going to sell it again. She never really got comfortable driving stick, so it has just been sitting and waiting to get regular use. I think it is about time for me to buy her back and tie up some loose ends!
I also finally bought a good fuel pressure test kit this year, so I should be able to do some fine tuning and really bring this car to the pinnacle of it's performance. I miss cruising in this tuna boat and I miss the diesel forum! I just miss diesel!!
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Well hello! Look who is hanging out in front of my house! Hi old friend!
(http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i248/flowmastergfunk/DSCF0126_zps32d16e0b.jpg) (http://s74.photobucket.com/user/flowmastergfunk/media/DSCF0126_zps32d16e0b.jpg.html)
She is looking a bit haggard, but now that she is MINE, I can treat her as she deserves to be treated :D
(http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i248/flowmastergfunk/DSCF0128_zps370d2687.jpg) (http://s74.photobucket.com/user/flowmastergfunk/media/DSCF0128_zps370d2687.jpg.html)
I think plenty of us can vouch for how nice the engine itself turned out, but this doesn't look right to me. It looks sloppy and unfinished. Ew.
(http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i248/flowmastergfunk/DSCF0129_zps18f0c680.jpg) (http://s74.photobucket.com/user/flowmastergfunk/media/DSCF0129_zps18f0c680.jpg.html)
I did finally get an old screw on fuel filter mount, so getting all the fuel lines cleaned up will be the first step. I am really excited to get the pump pressure spot on and possibly recheck the timing while I am at it. I never even knew where I left off! The "mystery" tune can be solved :) Second, I am going to start tucking away the wires a little bit at a time. I am also pretty sure I have enough 2gauge cable to move the battery to the trunk, but that may be a little bit more of a back-burner project. I just want to clean up the mess of wires over the transmission! My CIS bay almost looks cleaner than this! I did pick up a PERFECT little fuse block from the junkyard a while back thatis going to be used for the revised glow plug unit. I do believe it came out of a Saab, but I can't exactly recall. There will even be one leftover fuse for another random accessory!
(http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i248/flowmastergfunk/DSCF0135_zps843b9c18.jpg) (http://s74.photobucket.com/user/flowmastergfunk/media/DSCF0135_zps843b9c18.jpg.html)
I used the radioshack special fuse block at the time, which I wasn't fond of to begin with...but it was a POS. This will also give me a chance to set it up as it was intended, for four individual fuses, instead of two plug paired onto on fuse
(http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i248/flowmastergfunk/DSCF0134_zps5624125f.jpg) (http://s74.photobucket.com/user/flowmastergfunk/media/DSCF0134_zps5624125f.jpg.html)
I have got lots of big plans, but I am just going to chew one bite at a time. There are only a few things concerning me performance wise.
I put all new mounts in it when I dropped the motor in, put it feels like there is a lot of engine movement when I let the clutch out. I shook it around and ALL of the travel looks like it is in the right rear. There aren't many aftermarket options, other than the techtonics HD mount and the prothane insert. I have heard a lot of people say that prothane inserts are junk in the mk1 world, but I think that was just in comparison to the performance of full poly mounts...and I know better than to go with ubersolid mounts on a diesel!
Any experience with the TT HD mount and/or the prothane insert in a mk2 diesel?
I also remember when I FIRST bought this car, it had an engine damper attached to the strut tower. I took it off since the damper was blown and making a bunch of noise, but I had since lost the bracket. I had almost forgotten about that until I stumbled upon this picture of a brilliant looking mount today...
(http://img25.imageshack.us/img25/6703/dscf0034z.jpg)
Apparently from an AAZ passat? Looks like a work of art! Anyone running one of these?? I don't even know how I would find one!
One way or another, That mount has gotta stiffin up!! The amount of travel is unacceptable! Especially since I have been running stage two poly with my gas motor haha
Glad to be back guys! Hope everyone has been doing well!
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I would say you have your work cut out for you that Reddish Rabbit back there is in need of a few details it seems. What is the story on that little cuttie.
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That is the one that I mentioned on my last post! It will have me stoned as a blasphemer in here! It is a late 78 diesel that I bought as a rolling shell. It was gutted when I got it, and not so much a candidate for a true to vin restoration...but I made due with the wrecked cabby that I had and turned it into a monster! I actually have the head off right now, doing some P&P and getting it ready to send in to have it prepped for my 41/35 valves. I swore my next project was to be a 1.9td when i first started on the jetta, but I was working with what I had....and working it well ;) hopefully have some dyno numbers for it when the head is finished.
I need boost in my life!!!!
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Just didn't scroll down far enough I guess. Gasser eeewwwuuuhhh.
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Hi,
whatever you schedule do not valuable stiffen up the right rear engine mount in a golf mk2 diesel. I have tried a couple of thinks, like Pu inserts, nearly full rubber motorsport brushes and so on and everything came out as fully unusable, i have lost a couple of bolts all over the car and my dashboard rattles since them, the vibration level was so high that you could not even speak in the car or listen to the radio, unless you are below 1000 rpm ord above 4500 rpm (what is not the most time during daily driving). I you wand to limit engine travel go and look at the front mount, there it should be possible to stiffen up everthing a little bit, without vibrate out of the car. But i have to state out, that i did not try that up to now, in the moment i life with the engine travel.
I guy from germany make the suggestion to use the setup VW use on newer cars with a stabiliser bar. The only information i cane give you is this picture that it comes from a polo:
http://www.vagcat.com/p/B158/199200.png
Best Regards
Alleslowbuged
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Thank you so much for the advice! Sadly, that is exactly what I feared. I am hoping I can find a mount with the damper shock as pictured. I feel that that would be a happy medium that would yield satisfactory results. I am pretty sure I have a g60 mount for the trans, and I believe the front is just stock. I can literally pinpoint the movement to that corner, but I understand indefinitely how and why any attempt to solidify that corner will send vibrations throughout the car.
I also realized, when I did the clutch upgrade on this, I put a gasser flywheel on it. The lighter flywheel may allow the engine more HP and torque at the bottom end (more so in low gears), but it is also causing the rpms to fall more quickly once the clutch is pushed in. With that being said, it makes sense why shifting would become rougher, but all of that "gained" torque is just lost in the mount, and not applied to the wheels. I don't have a very sporty gear ratio anyways, so I suppose I can't complain much about usable torque.
Also, I never replaced the front subframe bushings in this car. not sure how much of a difference those are going to make. Anyone used poly subframe mounts and lived to tell the tale?
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The rear mount sends tons of vibrations. I had a manual mount with a poly insert and your teeth itch at idle. Going down the road it wasn't horrible, but it was very noticeable. I put a medium poly trans mount in, a solid rubber G60 mount up front *modded* and the stock all rubber rear mount for the MK2. It is about as stiff as you would ever want to make it for a daily car.
The modded front mount is the G60 unit, but I have a chain running under it from the mount bolt to the extra bolt for the starter mount. It is set so when the nut was off the mount and I jacked up the trans the chain stopped it before the engine mount came off the stud on the G60 mount. The chain will catch it if it would fail or try to stretch too far. So all the benefit of the rubber cushion mount and the added benefit of a solid mount when the chain is tight.
There is no gained torque from a lighter flywheel. The flywheel is just a storage device, heavier should feel like more torque lighter will rev faster than heavier. Also the rear mount shouldn't be as important on the engine roll in the forward gears as much as the front mount. If you go to autohaus az and look up this part # 191199262A that is what I am running in the rear. I have never ran the hydro mount in the rear but have heard they are even softer than the rubber ones.
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Hmm...I think I am going to have to give that front mount a shot. I can't recall which mounts I got before...the tranny mount is so stiff, it would be hard to believe it's not a g60. Thank you for the advice! I still want to be on the look out for one of those AAZ mounts though! I imagine it being a rare piece.
You are also correct about the flywheel. I am just under the impression that a lighter flywheel "fooling" the the engine into thinking the car is lighter than it really is, means an increase in HP and torque to the wheels. I know that diesels have a heavy flywheel for the reason of storing that energy and helping the engine keep it's momentum, but the whole clutch ordeal that I went through is what made me end up with the gas flywheel in the first place. You are bringing me down! I thought I got to tack on some extra digits to my hp and torque specs :(
Well, at least I got to add a few HP by putting on my backwards g60 valve cover! haha
(http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i248/flowmastergfunk/DSCF0159_zpsd65aa47b.jpg) (http://s74.photobucket.com/user/flowmastergfunk/media/DSCF0159_zpsd65aa47b.jpg.html)
Just gotta get some allen bolts to replace the studs and set up the breather. I have a nice catch can that I haven't ended up using on my rabbit, so I may integrate it into this. It is a pretty nice vented one with two inlets on the sides...so I am guessing that if I went from the VC to the can, and the other side went back to the intake still...there would be enough vacuum to keep it from venting fumes into the atmosphere tooooo much. I have never set up a catch can before, so I can't say for sure.
Got a mk1 screw on filter mounted up to the strut tower, so that helped clean things up a bit. Still need to get some new hose, but it looks much better than everything just dangling there and held out of the way with zipties haha.
Got the wiring clean up a little bit too, but I am still anxious to re locate the battery and stealth away all the wires that aren't engine and sensor related.
...minus the brake fluid level sensor. I think I will know when my brake fluid is low. That is one sensor I can do without ;)
I DID finally get an Aubern EGT setup purchased and on it's way, along with a couple of slim 10"fans. I am going to be on the prowl for a passat 16v dual fan shroud and modify it to hold the low profile fans. I do NOT want to melt this engine haha
I know R.O.R. really hates my intake (and I am sure he can't be the only one), but I have been back to the drawing board on intake plans, and I have questions alongside suggestions. I find it worthy of digging up another thread on n/a and gasser intakes, so that if anyone else is going to chime in or benefit from it, they won't have to hunt through a build page to do so ;D
I need to make friends with a dyno and flow bench so we can all see numberssss!!!
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With all the improvements made here I think you should invest in some mouse traps. That swiss cheese intake cover is surely going to bring them in.
But I can see the advantage to it for flow. Maybe not cold air but no constriction happening here for sure.
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HAHAHAHA lately, my cars have been more prone to collecting spiders and it TERRIFIES me! I cant stand seeing my cars connected to the ground by spiderwebs!
Even though I may be stoned to death for ricing out a fine German automobile, function wise, I really want to mount a subaru scoop I think it will make a tremendous difference. Particularly so if I fabricate some sort of matching piece under the hood to guide all the air right to the intake box. My rain tray delete should help the hot air get sucked out through the vents at the back of the hood. Should stay plenty cool! And next time I am stuck in central California on the 101, at a dead stop, in 105degree weather... hopefully the dual fans will keep me from having to turn the heater on full blast to keep the engine cool. That SUCKED!
Never again!
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Careful. There is a very strong low pressure right on top of the hood.. if you open up the hood to the engine bay, you may inadvertently hinder flow through the rad by making the engine bay high pressure with the hole in the hood shoving air in, and the underside of the car rushing by.
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VW does make a hood scoop that goes over the vent on the hood. Ever see one of them? I had the chance to pick one up for 45 and passed on it. If I see another I might just do it. Not very high, like 3/4 of an inch and about 8 by 16 all total.
You could tape D-Con boxes on it and when people ask you what's with that you can pop the hood and tell them it protects the cheezy air cleaner cover.
I am going for a chicken wire over frame on mine after seeing this holey conversion.
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I have never LEARNED so much from posting in a forum. You guys are great! Looks like I have a new area to do research in. If that is the case, I wonder what kind of negative effects I have already reaped from deleting my raintray :/ Now I am wondering what is happening around the existing hood vents when I drive. Looks like I need an online physics class...
I was already imagining putting a hoodscoop on and watching it get ripped back off haha
So if I were to open up my hood with a scoop, I would pretty much have to have the opening routed and sealed directly to the airbox, avoiding any significant flow to the rest of the engine bay? I am surprisingly more interested than I am deterred...
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Well you have already removed the rain tray and the seal on top of it ;) SOO you already have a hood scoop on there. And probably a pretty good one at that. Ever feel how much air gets rammed through the interior vents with the fan off? INTENSE.
To not have the hood scoop opening sealed to the intake tract, would only allow the filter to still suck hot engine bay air. Mind you this is a step above what you had. Most gains will be seen from sealing it to the hood and allowing a fuel gulp of cold forced air.
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Just keep in mind that a direct connection from outside the hood to the inside of the cylinder can be a good thing for cold air and a bad thing for dust and worst case, rain water. Baffles, catchcan or secondary filter may be necessary to prevent bad things from happening here.
You current holey moley filter cover would need to be resealed.
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Big big thangs been happening this week! I have been putting in lots of work! I am pretty exhausted with all of it! The half off sale at ecology is coming up on Monday, so I am going to see if I can get a few things after work. Definitely hoping to find a nice pair of legit bumpers. Also hoping for a clean mk3 console, an instrument cluster (I suppose I am aiming for a gasser cluster and I am just going to modify it so I can actually have a tach and dash lights!), some real gauges for oil pressure temp and voltage to toss in the stock stereo spot and whatever kind of little goodies I can find. I really don't like flying blind, if I can help it :/
Anywho, I ended up taking my intake and exhaust manifold off so that I could get my EGT probe installed. I forgot how big of a PITA it is to get these stock intake manifolds off! That was the main reason I decided to rip my raintray out in the first place, and it is STILL hard to get to! I ended up drilling in the collector for the two center cylinders. I figured they would be the two hottest, and the ones that should be of my primary concern.
(http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i248/flowmastergfunk/DSCF0053_zps2f40b0fa.jpg) (http://s74.photobucket.com/user/flowmastergfunk/media/DSCF0053_zps2f40b0fa.jpg.html)
Since I had the intake off and I want to use the stock intake as a template for parts(I will get to that in a bit), I went ahead and threw a ported 92 cabby manifold on there with a 16v throttle body adapter (just learned they are 2 piece TB's, I was just going to put a gutted TB on there for the time being!) in order to run a cone filter under my hood vent. This is just a temporary setup, but I was also interested in experimenting with it anyways. New to me!
(http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i248/flowmastergfunk/DSCF0065_zps7a644070.jpg) (http://s74.photobucket.com/user/flowmastergfunk/media/DSCF0065_zps7a644070.jpg.html)
You might notice that I bit the bullet and bypassed my heater core. The hoses were getting in my way and working in the heat made me snap, so I just went for it haha. I put an NLS block off plate on the head and a plug in the water pump. Been running my rabbit like that successfully for a while.
The other deciding factor is that I want this car to be dependable and easy to work on out on the road. I don't know how many of you have had to replace that stubby bypass hose on the side of the road...but it is hell. Particularly if you can't find the stock hose and you have to work with some universal piece (it is a tapered hose :/)
No regrets, but I am keeping everything around in case I change my mind in the winter.
Also "finished" my glowplug setup. Got 4 pieces of 10ga wire going from each glowplug to an individual fuse in that little distribution block that I picked up. I got a PM asking about that, and looked it up to see what I pulled it out of. I found it in a mid 90's saab 900. Just bent the bracket back and forth until the metal snapped and took the whole rig. I shot it right into the frame with some self drilling screws and it worked out great. I was in a hurry yesterday though and had a hell of a time with the soldering. I spliced the wires side by side and it didn't allow me to slip heat shrink over it. Now it is just this hideous glob of rubber insulators and the last of my electrical tape haha. I am going to redo them by soldering in butt splices.
On my first night drive, I remembered how pitiful the stock lighting was. I took the wiring harness I made for my headlight relays out of my rabbit since it will be out of commission for a while, and transplanted it into the jetta to save myself some work. It is amazing what getting an actual 12v+ will do for your night vision!
(http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i248/flowmastergfunk/DSCF0063_zps502608a6.jpg) (http://s74.photobucket.com/user/flowmastergfunk/media/DSCF0063_zps502608a6.jpg.html)
Once again, if curiosity strikes, this nifty little relay box came out of some sort of saab. I just have 4 standard relays crammed inside of it. I made a nice little nest for it up in front of the battery. Easy enough to get to if need be, yet out of sight. I need to get some actual h4 plugs to splice in. The old ones I had were corroded
(http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i248/flowmastergfunk/DSCF0067_zpsefbaac7f.jpg) (http://s74.photobucket.com/user/flowmastergfunk/media/DSCF0067_zpsefbaac7f.jpg.html)
I got most of the wires tucked away in the frame, but I aim to have them tucked proper eventually. Right now they just drop from the firewall to the frame. I pulled a lot of wires from the stock loom and re routed them in ways that I deemed more fitting for my needs. There is still so much to do!!!!!
All in all, the most exciting part is finally having my EGT setup. I had this on top of my priority list when I first finished the engine build, but got distracted within the drama. If any of you recall, I had to take the pressure regulator apart to clean it and due to a lack of gauges and such, never got the chance to do the fine tuning. Now that I have this sucker installed, I am shocked to see numbers!
(http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i248/flowmastergfunk/DSCF0062_zps42455395.jpg) (http://s74.photobucket.com/user/flowmastergfunk/media/DSCF0062_zps42455395.jpg.html)
crusing downhill everything looks great, going up hill under a heavy load, holy crap this thing is blowing some hot air! I am almost scared to think of how hot it must have been when I was trying to make it up the hill coming south on the grape wine after our Napa Valley trip! I almost want to take it back apart to see if anything is badly melted :(
It is not uncommon for it to shoot up over 1100 going up a hill under a full load, and I had definitely seen it go over 1200. I have read about diesels going over 1500 for brief periods of time but also read that aluminum starts melting at 1200. Great haha. I am hoping to get my pressure set and recheck my timing today. Hopefully the majority of the problem is with pump pressure. Not sure if I will need more or less advance yet.
Better to get that EGT sensor installed late than never. At least the motor is still a few thousand miles young, but yikes! That is an abusive start
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I know that advancing the pump timing should lower EGT's, but when I set the timing, I do believe I had it set to 0.97mm. That should be plenty of advance for an N/A motor of this nature, should it not?
I am going to recheck my timing, but I DID get the pressure set. It is nice to have all the right tools for the job now! It sure makes a difference boosting up the pressure to the desired 43.5 PSI from 5 PSI hahahahaha. That was way further off than I would have imagined! It certainly helped, but as Jeremy has already hinted, I think my timing is off somehow. I hope have good luck finding TDC on the crank with my gasser flywheel. It was easy on a stand when the head was off :/
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No big thing. It is right here.
(http://imageshack.us/a/img17/860/dsc01658fy.jpg)
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HAHAHAHAHA!!!!!! Cute :P It had been so long since I put it together, I flat out couldn't remember if there was a mark or not. There certainly was ;D A big fat statue of a park! Couldn't miss it!
Took the valve cover and belt off, retimed the engine, turned it over a couple of times and everything still lined up spot on. Went to go check the pump timing and it was like 1.4mm or something!!! I must have been off a tooth when I timed it before. I set it to just about .98 and went for a drive.....
Yeaaaaaaaaahhhhhhh buddy! THAT'S what this thing was supposed to do all along!! It is a bit loud with that much advance, but it friggin wails and EGT's are glorious. I wonder how much more mean this would feel be with my 7A tranny!....oh man....that's a whole different can of worms ;)
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Yes that is a Gas engine flywheel showing what you will look for when finding TDC to do your diesel timing.
JUST on the left side of that bolt head over from the 6* mark.
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hmm. I guess I got a lucky flywheel then. Mine has a a big stud sticking off at, what I believe is, TDC. It doesn't sound like mashing valves, so it has gotta be correct. I will try to snag a picture next time I am out with the car. Sure runs great though! What an amazing difference!
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No sir. Those are most certainly NOT TDC. You are like 12* BTDC
(http://faculty.ccp.edu/faculty/dreed/campingart/jettatech/t-belt/Pic003a.JPG)
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So you mean my car is going to run even better?? Hahaha holy crap I am happy that valves aren't hitting. I literally thought you were just messing with me with that first picture you posted! Cheers dude! I am surprised it runs as well as it did that way....
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I got it retimed properly and once again, it runs even better. Still running the same amount of advance, yet it is much quieter. Maybe I was slapping valves :/ good lord I hope not! Mods, can we rename this thread to "Quick and easy ways to ruin a perfectly good rebuild motor"???
That was an abusive break in period :-[ Poor thing! I bet the rings are good and seated now haha.
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I wonder if that is what is wrong with my mom's car. The car is so loud, even though I know I have it timed right. Stupid automatics...
Glad I read your post
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WoW, nice job. And congrats on getting it timed right and installing an EGT.
BTW, you mentioned I just have 4 standard relays crammed inside of it. I made a nice little nest for it up in front of the battery. Easy enough to get to if need be, yet out of sight. I need to get some actual h4 plugs to splice in. The old ones I had were corroded
Are you saying you are running four individual relays - one for each GP?
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Judging by the H4 plug comment, I'd say he meant these were for the headlights??
Just a guess though.
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Judging by the H4 plug comment, I'd say he meant these were for the headlights??
Just a guess though.
I re-read the post and your'e correct, he was talking about the headlights.
"Could" four 40 amp relays be used for the GP's though?
I know, silly question as a single big starter relay would be better. I just happen to have four standard relays.
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Don't know why you would waste your time. They only pull 9-11 amps each.
One starter relay is more than sufficient.
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They will normalize at 9-11 amps but I think when it is cold at first pull they will draw way more. IIRC someone was saying that they will pull around 60 each and then it comes down really fast, less than 1/2 second to the 9-11 amp area.
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I am running all four on the 88 off of a single 40A automotive 4 blade relay.
It still started with no issues last winter. The relay was used when I put it in, and is still fine. I have it setup with power directly from battery, relay, plugs. So like 13" tops.
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I have 10 amp individuals on each GP. Only started popping one as it started to go bad. Moved to a 15 AMP and didn't have a problem. Individual 40 amps is overkill and probably not what you want to do. It would have to be a monster direct short to pop that off.
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I have 10 amp individuals on each GP. Only started popping one as it started to go bad. Moved to a 15 AMP and didn't have a problem. Individual 40 amps is overkill and probably not what you want to do. It would have to be a monster direct short to pop that off.
Thanks, I moved the discussion to herehttp://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=33874.0 (http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=33874.0) as I was sidetracking the OP's thread.
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Yeah a 10 or 15 amp should be fine unless it is super fast acting as the initial draw is only in milliseconds then it goes to the approx. 10/plug
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I have 10 amp individuals on each GP. Only started popping one as it started to go bad. Moved to a 15 AMP and didn't have a problem. Individual 40 amps is overkill and probably not what you want to do. It would have to be a monster direct short to pop that off.
Yeah a 10 or 15 amp should be fine unless it is super fast acting as the initial draw is only in milliseconds then it goes to the approx. 10/plug
I have 15 amp fuses on each of the four GP's. What I was asking about was the relay(s), and I have decided to use 2-40 amp jobs - two GP's for each. They will feed to the 15 amp fuses.
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Oh wow! I am happy that the glowplug deal sparked so much interest! Matter of fact, I was kinda waiting for someone to say "Don't you think 60amps per plug is a little bit overkill?" lol I only went with the 60ampers because that is what came in the fusebox (except for the extra 40amper at the end that I removed)
This worked out because I was a bit curious how much they actually drew. My rough draft setup (2 glass fuses, each feeding a pair of GP's) I had started with 25a fuses, only to burn them out rather quickly. I went up to 30a, and it was better...but IIRC I had still blown a few. I was thinking that 20a or 25a would do fine for individual plug fuses, for a little extra headroom.
Since doing the timing again, the car has been running great! EGT's were still climbing when going up a grade, but not nearly as much! I still backed off the max fuel about a quarter turn, because I noticed a position in the throttle cable where EGT's would start to climb if I passed it. There's the governor mod workin!!! ;D
Even though we all know this got off to an abusive start, I am still taking precautions to keep engine temps safe and stable. The fan that I made certainly works great, but I picked up a piece of aluminum yesterday to make a bracket for my flexalite dual fan. I would rather have an extra fan on demand, just incase I ever need it. My gasser temps would never fluctuate like this motor, so I think the diesel is more deserving of it. I am also going to be on the lookout for an oil cooler setup next time I am at the junker. I heard the volvo turbo's have a cooler that is a direct fit, you just have to get creative with the hoses. I read briefly about water wetter and picked up a bottle at the parts store yesterday. I guess antifreeze isn't a huge factor here in So Cal. The water wetter label recommends running a minimum of 15% coolant on a street car, but I am not sure what the "boiling" qualities of a 15-85% mix would have. One review I looked over said that this sauce does NOT lower the boiling point of water, it just helps "hot spots". Having a vented system, I do not want my system to boil and start puking out the cap! Hopefully I get the blend just right! I am also looking to change the setup for my upper radiator hoses. The way I had to cut and splice the stuck hose is a little wonky. I want to simplify the bends, have the hose sit more "flat" and get the filler neck closer to the head, so it's not hovering over the alternator. I should be able to shape something up with whatever they have in stock at carquest. I have a couple close friends that work there, so we should be able to go back and forth to the parking lot and eyeball a pair of hoses that will work out.
Now that I have advanced as a technician and have been studying the flow characteristics of gasser heads, I am excited to do headwork on a diesel one of these days! Having this system all dialed in will give me a pretty good before and after when it comes to seeing temperature differences between a ported and non ported head with the same fueling. Then, figure out how much further you can push the fueling with a free flowing head! Once I get the rabbit out of the way, I hope to pickup an extra diesel head to put on the shelf.
As far as I am concerned, I have it dialed in just right at this point. A VERY happy medium between economy, performance and temperature. I would love to see how much better this engine would push my gutted, super light rabbit with a shorter final drive instead of this big tuna boat of a jetta! I am very impressed how well this thing moves for it's size! I can still remember what it was like trying to make it up the big hill to my house when I first got it....second gear FLOORED, door open, kicking off the pavement to help push my car in anyway that I could hahaha. Then realizing how much better things were when I did the suspension and I could BOMB through the corner at the bottom, trying to keep my momentum!
I finally cracked the case on my CHE tranny yesterday and swapped in a .75 5th. The stock ratio with the .8 actually wasn't too bad. I feel that it is a great tranny for economy. Now, it is just like an early ff with a final drive swap. It is not an extreme difference, as it only drops rpms by 200 at 75, but it feels great. The .8 will find itself a much more useful home going into a close ratio tranny 8)
The mk2 is much easier to do the swap in than the mk1 (stupid frame rail!). It only took me a few hours, and I was moving pretty slow. The hardest part is drilling the smaller gear to accept the large spline style clip. Thank goodness I have some carbide crap! I had to start with a small carbide dremel bit, then I was able to start buzzing it out with larger carbide cones, and THEN I could hit it with a drill bit so that I could have some steep walls, to keep the clip from climbing out.
(http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i248/flowmastergfunk/DSCF0068_zpsb5716875.jpg) (http://s74.photobucket.com/user/flowmastergfunk/media/DSCF0068_zpsb5716875.jpg.html)
Anywho, thanks again for the kind words and suggestions all along the way guys.
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I think I got my cooling and fan issues ironed out! This is how my initial fan turned out. I think it looks pretty clean :) never mind the pink and baby blue paint! It DID used to be my chicks car! I wet sanded it and did a black fade around the edges...dusted with a little silver metal flake lol
(http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i248/flowmastergfunk/DSCF0075_zpsc0a529e7.jpg) (http://s74.photobucket.com/user/flowmastergfunk/media/DSCF0075_zpsc0a529e7.jpg.html)
It is a good deal less invasive than stock
(http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i248/flowmastergfunk/DSCF0076_zps0f4b2ebc.jpg) (http://s74.photobucket.com/user/flowmastergfunk/media/DSCF0076_zps0f4b2ebc.jpg.html)
It actually works great, I feel it looks better, and it is certainly less loud that both the stock and Flex-a-lite units! I just feel better using the fancy dual unit for this car, since the diesel runs much hotter than my gas car by nature(well...maybe just because I have both of them running rich ;) ).
To get the Scirocco Flex-a-lite fan to fit the diesel radiator, I redrilled the holes on both side brackets that came with the fan, so that the mounting tabs set closer to the radiator. Then, for the passenger side, I made a simple bracket out of a 13" piece of aluminum strap that goes between the top and bottom radiator mounts. I shot 4 sheet metal screws threw it, ground off the sharp tips, and it was ready to install! This was quick and easy! The time consuming part was adding dual relays and dual switches!
(http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i248/flowmastergfunk/DSCF0073_zpsf851b069.jpg) (http://s74.photobucket.com/user/flowmastergfunk/media/DSCF0073_zpsf851b069.jpg.html)
Here is the fan in place with the new upper radiator hose I threw together
(http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i248/flowmastergfunk/DSCF0080_zps58fa4639.jpg) (http://s74.photobucket.com/user/flowmastergfunk/media/DSCF0080_zps58fa4639.jpg.html)
I managed to find a universal hose that had satisfactory curves for the radiator side, and cut a piece of the stock hose for the head inlet side. I think that the head side could swing up a little more, but for now it is WAY better than it was!
(http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i248/flowmastergfunk/DSCF0079_zps8294040d.jpg) (http://s74.photobucket.com/user/flowmastergfunk/media/DSCF0079_zps8294040d.jpg.html)
No more filler neck above the radiator, I got the overflow routed smoothly down the face of the engine (sorry wildlife activists! It shouldn't boil over!) and I believe this took care of any air bubbles I was getting in the head!
I am running conventional around 25% green coolant, 75% distilled water, and half a bottle of Redline Water Wetter. I drove it around last night and my temps were amazing! Looked to be around 1/3 of the way up driving around city streets with one fan on! It has been hot as hell around here lately, so not sure how it does during the day while it is still scorching out! So far it is a GREAT improvement though!
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Very nice work. Great news on the low temps, especially in this weather.
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Gizmo! You, being in SD, know first hand how foul it has been! Yesterday it was between 100-105 by my house! I figured it would be a perfect day to road test it haha. By the time I got to leave and go run errands yesterday, I was cooking inside my car, and the engine was happy as a clam! Hardly raised up past 1/3! Sat at a stop light without the fans on, just to watch the temp, and it didn't even start shooting up then! Did some stop and go at various stores, heat soak didn't even take the temps up to high.
I did rob the power wire from my EGT gauge to feed the fan relay switches, so I didn't watch my EGT's in unison...but by this point I have a better idea of what throttle position and what size of hill will bring my exhaust temps up. Since I had my gauge kinda rigged in the first place, I just had a constant power wire that I would disconnect every time I parked the car hahaha so it was much better suited for the fan switches. I am gonna sneak out today and tap it into a keyed power source.
My next big adventure is getting set up with real gauges. I am going to grab the triple VDO gauges from a cabby, audi or whatever...and then I want to start working on an instrument cluster...which is probably going to be a HUGE PITA!
I had an actual diesel cluster with a tach, but after the brakeup, and initial departure up dub nasty...I sold it :(
Same with the fender flares I had for it. Since they are rather tough to find, and pricey if you do indeed find one, I am just guessing I will be using a gasser cluster and doing the tach conversion.
I love electrical work and electronic stuff, but I despise these flexable ribbon cable circuit boards. Even though swapping resistors and such to convert the tach signal, I will still be faced with the hardships of taking the cluster apart, tracing leads, having all the little LEDS labled correctly...making sure I have a glow plug LED and not an o2 LED lol....
My current cluster is already beat. A few burnt traces, the contacts for the dash lights are ruined...I suppose I just need to get them out and start digging in...but I will at least have to get a triple gauge setup to rely on first! I can do without a speedo, clock and dashlights(haha I have for years). I can even do without having a fuel gauge for a while...but I have to watch temps! It still bugs me not having a volt meter.
Any body have a mk2 that they have added VDO's for replacing idiot lights?
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Congrats on your temp test. Yeah, I hate the flexi-chingus on the back of my cluster as well. Had to jumper the traces to get my dash lights working again - all good now. I even ran wire to light the temp sliders. I changed the tiny bulbs to blue LEDs - work great.
I'm still fiddling with all the stuff I still need to do and in this heat, I'm keeping to benchwork in the garage with a window AC (my electric bills gonna be murder.
The van's outside baking ;D
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Picked up a thrermostatic oil cooler plate off a turbo Volvo yesterday. Had to take the entire flange because I could NOT get the center bolt to come out with the tools I had! I think it is a 29mm or 1 1/8" because I had a 30mm 12 point and it wouldn't bite. Now that I got it back in my garage, I have tried using a 30mm 6 point...and it's grabbing, but not loosening! Laid on it with my little dewalt impact...nothing. Got an 1 1/8" box wrench, whooping it's ass with a hammer...nothing. Bastard! I am trying PB blaster, but not even sure that is going to help! I wish I still had a bench vice! That would help tremendously. Too bad I need the threaded insert or I would be at it with giant channel locks or a grinder by thie point The correct tools generally make a difference, but never thought I would need a 29mm deep socket and I hate having to buy SAE tools!!!!
Not sure what kind of oil radiator I am going to run yet....I didn't grab the Volvo one, nor the lines. I knew damn well the lines wouldn't work, so I figured I would surf the internet for a more friendly application. Not sure If I want to mount it behind the grill and in front of the radiator...Kinda thinking about aiming low, behind the bumper, but with the angle of the radiator, I think I have plenty of room in front of it on the drivers side, if I go that route. I guess the first task is finding a cooler that I like and picking a spot accordingly :) The volvo lines are different on both ends, so I would like to get adapters for the sandwich that convert it to more common fittings. I prefer to have lines that are the same style fitting on both ends. There is a nice local shop that does custom lines/hoses, so I will most likely go to them once I decide what cooler to run.
Also grabbed another clean center console! I am going to redo this one the same way to accept my dual din deck, but I am not going to cut into the sides or the cubby this time. The speakers in the center console seemed cool at first, but it was only because there was no convenient way to stuff speakers into the door cards. Not exactly sure how the front speakers are going to work out yet, but I am going to start worrying about getting the rear deck lid finished.
Interior was 50% off, so it's a damn shame I still can't find any doorcards! Certainly the worst part of my interior dilemma!
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HAHAHAHAHA!!!!!! Cute :P It had been so long since I put it together, I flat out couldn't remember if there was a mark or not. There certainly was ;D A big fat statue of a park! Couldn't miss it!
Took the valve cover and belt off, retimed the engine, turned it over a couple of times and everything still lined up spot on. Went to go check the pump timing and it was like 1.4mm or something!!! I must have been off a tooth when I timed it before. I set it to just about .98 and went for a drive.....
Yeaaaaaaaaahhhhhhh buddy! THAT'S what this thing was supposed to do all along!! It is a bit loud with that much advance, but it friggin wails and EGT's are glorious. I wonder how much more mean this would feel be with my 7A tranny!....oh man....that's a whole different can of worms ;)
so you were timed at 1.4mm and your egt's were awful and you retarded back to .98 and it ran better/faster/quieter/lower temps?
... I need to re-re-check my timing. I just hate trying to check it. The water outlet on the head interferes with my timing tools/dial gauge. So i have to re RTV it every time I take it off and yap yap yap. I'm actually really interested in your slim fan mod as well. I'll probably do that, the timing belt and valve cover all at once.
Question: What are the specs on that slim fan installed in the stock fan shroud? Where'd you get it? And are you running the stock mk1 radiator or a plus size? I'm deciding what new radiator to order since mine has developed a small crack and is leaking slowly when the pump is on. Any input on size/fan setup? I was going to try a slim mount fan (preferably something with a much higher CFM) in the stock fan shroud on the stock sized or upsized radiator and run either a manual fan switch or something that kicks on around 200*. Unless you think the flexafit is really the bomb diggity for these cars. haha.
This thread has tons of awesome in it. Keep up the good work!
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Correction...I certainly did not RUN my car at 1.4mm! after I took OFF the belt, put it back on and rechecked the timing, that is where it landed. I don't think I adjusted the clack properly last time, and I believe the pump was one tooth off....so I adjusted the timing for BEING one tooth off. Plain and simple, my all around engine timing was set incorrectly.
Ahhhh yes. I actually have two lengths for my dial indicator adapters. One makes the gauge land right underneath the upper radiator hose, the other is so long that it interferes with the vacuum pump hahaha.
My radiator is a stock unit for a mk2 diesel WITH A/C. The Flex-a-lite fan is just shy of $300 bucks on Jegs....which is crazy expensive. I bought it when I was ballin, and it certainly a fine unit. I am happy to have it, but I wouldn't buy another one unless it was used :P The fan I used to mod the stock housing was a universal 10" slim fan off ebay. It says it draws less than 7 amps and is rated at 1570 cfm. It blows the stock fan out of the water, no pun intended. They are only about $25 shipped for the fan, but certainly requires lots of trimming and elbow grease. I will be selling the one I already made it you are into baby blue, hot pink sprinkles and silver glitter :D
Thanks for the compliment too! I hope to have some exciting updates soon! I have been doing some parts gathering...got my oil cooler sandwich all cleaned up and got the threaded piece ouf of the volvo flange! I manage to find some cabby gauges and got my 42 draft designs plate to mount them in the stock radio slot. I figured I would splurge on something of good quality and not try to rig something out of thin ABS.
I mounted my momo steering wheel today which just feels infinitely better to me! Love it!
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I finally did my third oil change and figured it was safe to go ahead and do the switch to synthetic. I ended up going with the Rotella T6 5w-40 full synthetic. Thus far...the car loves it! She is taking on hills better, acceleration feels better, seems to like to rev a bit higher( I was getting a little chatter at higher rpm's that I thought may have been the injectors...now I am guessing it was lifters?), it holds it's rpms up better between shifts...not just dropping. I suppose that second batch of oil and the filter were well beyond their life span. Temps are still fairly high during the hot days...but not what they once were. I think the oil will help with temps too. I am planning on doing a hot filter change after getting some miles on it and just topping it off again. Help clear out whatever kind of crap was leftover after the oil change. Running a carquest premium Wix filter for now. Last one I ran was Mann. Still not sure what the BEST filter is for this car...but I guess as long as they keep getting changed, a filter is a filter is a filter. Open for endless debate, which could easily turn into "what is the best toilet paper" hahaha
Hopefully I will get the rest of the bits to do the oil cooler setup soon and I can just put a new filter on then.
My next big goal is to do a mk3 rear drum swap with a mk3 master cylinder. I am convinced my rears are FINISHED! I had to make a fast stop for a light last week and the car was pretty pissed about slowing down. Eventually, the fronts locked up, and the car was still going! Yikes! I really think it would be wise to have the 200mm drums in general, but I am contemplating just getting a full mk3 beam from the junker to save time and money for now. I still have some open ended questions about the ordeal. Started a thread on it, because all the threads I could find were about swapping to rear disk...and I don't want discs!
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?6136716-No...I-don-t-want-rear-disks.-MK3-beam-and-drum-s (http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?6136716-No...I-don-t-want-rear-disks.-MK3-beam-and-drum-s)
I also took off my Neuspeed short shifter and rod and put the stock one back on with a mk3 rod...and I almost like it more:screwy:
I kinda missed the way the stock shifter felt! I have a TT short shifter in my rabbit that came with my downpipe...and I always kept it in the stock setting. I do prefer the feel of a tranny side SS over the steering rack side SS, but I came to realize...a short shifter isn't gonna make this slug any faster haha
Here are my gauges and a few of my momo goodies in the background. I am going to start on the wiring this week and hopefully my gauge panel will show up soon. I think I may need to get some different sensors too, but I will have to start doing some studying on different wiring diagrams.
(http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i248/flowmastergfunk/DSCF0112_zps33b54cd7.jpg) (http://s74.photobucket.com/user/flowmastergfunk/media/DSCF0112_zps33b54cd7.jpg.html)
This is the momo wheel out of my rabbit, but eventually, I hope to find whatever model it is that accepts the center pad that I have. I bought this champion wheel in the first place because I thought it was the one :/ that's all future tense. No biggie.
(http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i248/flowmastergfunk/DSCF0124_zps2399508c.jpg) (http://s74.photobucket.com/user/flowmastergfunk/media/DSCF0124_zps2399508c.jpg.html)
Got some extra weight on the car right now...but it is still doing great with it! Thank goodness it has such built suspension! I was skeptical of the mk2 roof rails at first...but I finally got brave/confident enough to throw this thing up there. Certainly incentive to get the rear brakes done soon soon soon!
(http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i248/flowmastergfunk/DSCF0125_zpsbcf372c7.jpg) (http://s74.photobucket.com/user/flowmastergfunk/media/DSCF0125_zpsbcf372c7.jpg.html)
(http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i248/flowmastergfunk/DSCF0123_zpsee59561f.jpg) (http://s74.photobucket.com/user/flowmastergfunk/media/DSCF0123_zpsee59561f.jpg.html)
In case you are wondering, it is a pop up tent, and it is awesome!
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Correction...I certainly did not RUN my car at 1.4mm! after I took OFF the belt, put it back on and rechecked the timing, that is where it landed. I don't think I adjusted the clack properly last time, and I believe the pump was one tooth off....so I adjusted the timing for BEING one tooth off. Plain and simple, my all around engine timing was set incorrectly.
Ahhhh yes. I actually have two lengths for my dial indicator adapters. One makes the gauge land right underneath the upper radiator hose, the other is so long that it interferes with the vacuum pump hahaha.
My radiator is a stock unit for a mk2 diesel WITH A/C. The Flex-a-lite fan is just shy of $300 bucks on Jegs....which is crazy expensive. I bought it when I was ballin, and it certainly a fine unit. I am happy to have it, but I wouldn't buy another one unless it was used :P The fan I used to mod the stock housing was a universal 10" slim fan off ebay. It says it draws less than 7 amps and is rated at 1570 cfm. It blows the stock fan out of the water, no pun intended. They are only about $25 shipped for the fan, but certainly requires lots of trimming and elbow grease. I will be selling the one I already made it you are into baby blue, hot pink sprinkles and silver glitter :D
Thanks for the compliment too! I hope to have some exciting updates soon! I have been doing some parts gathering...got my oil cooler sandwich all cleaned up and got the threaded piece ouf of the volvo flange! I manage to find some cabby gauges and got my 42 draft designs plate to mount them in the stock radio slot. I figured I would splurge on something of good quality and not try to rig something out of thin ABS.
I mounted my momo steering wheel today which just feels infinitely better to me! Love it!
Good to hear the timing question was a misunderstanding ;)
I like where this car is headed. Alot of similar mods to where I'm wanting to go with mine. Also comtemplating mk3 rear drums/rear beam. Doesn't the rear beam widen the rear track by like an 1" or something?
Does the ebay fan actually blow harder than the stocky? Did you compare them or just compare stats? Did you spend any time running that fan set up at all? And did you notice any change with the upgraded radiator or do you think stock size would work? They are basically the same price. But I guess you have to do all new radiator hoses (mine needs this anyway.) Just wondering if it is worth the effort. Did you have any overheating before?
this is a n/a beast right? Any plans to go turbo?
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Yes, the MK3 beam kicks the track out by an inch to 1.5 IIRC. I'd recommend just buying full Caddy drum setup, as it is about the same thing; I believe you can still use your factory MC as the rear Caddy slave cylinders still have the same ID as the 180mm jawns. And I would also like to hear performance comparison of the read fans; I might upgrade mine as well, as the big stock fan motor might get in the way of what I'm trying to do with my AWIC core.
This thing is coming a long NICE. Great to see all the plans are coming together, and the engine starting to break in really nicely. Keep it up!
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I did read the mk3 beam is wider, which I can tolerate, but then I also heard that it makes the wheels sit further back as well. The differences between the proportioning valves seem like they would make the swap a PITA too. They are stiffer though, as they appear to have extra reinforcement gussets on the outside edges...that is kinda cool :) I have ultimately decided against the rear beam swap and I am planning on just the drums. Good info on the caddy drum parts Andy! Thank you :)
I do not plan on this engine ever seeing a turbo. The car? Maybe :) Abusive break in aside, I built this engine for longevity. As much as I crave boost, that will be a different chapter. The 2.0 in my rabbit does have piston squirters and forged internals...so I may end up boosting that before I ever get to boost a diesel. I will just be waiting to stumble upon a good deal locally on a 1.9, and then it will all be over ;) TDI's in the junkyard are the rarest of the rare...so I just want this motor to last long enough for one to get found and built on a stand.
And I have faith that this motor will survive:) Probably with lots of life leftover! N/A or not, this thing would be a sweet drop in upgrade over an old 1.5
If I ever upgrade to a 1.9td, someone will be happy!
As far as I can tell, the slim fan is a definite upgrade. Then again, the fan that I was running had one speed burnt out. Not sure which one it was though! Being much quieter and less invasive is a huge plus from the get go. I am guessing doesn't take nearly as much current to get it going as well. Maybe it is a moot point for me since I am running the flexalite fan now, but I may just use my power probe and set up both fan styles to make a video :D This isn't just "The Greg Show"! I do post all of my trials, errors, successes and findings for the entire community to learn, not just to show off my pride and joy ;)
I didn't have problems with over heating, but it was definitely warmer than I was comfortable with. I know changing my upper hose configuration made a big difference, for the better. I would think blocking flow out the side of the head didn't help to expel heat much, but I feel it was worth while to bypass several extra hoses and potential for failure/leaks. All in all, the temperature is a reflection of my car saying "Dude, get over it and back off the F@#$%&* FUELING!"
I have still had some high EGT's on hot days and rising engine temps when going up a grade for a long time. I am sure the extra weight of the tent didn't help, per se, but that is part of the whole testing procedure. I finally got finished working on my diesel intake so I could throw it back on and adjust the fueling accordingly. After all was said and done, I ended up turning the turning the max fuel down, but I still put a cooler thermostat in it for good measure.
So I ported out my intake runners a little more now that I have some long shank burrs, and I ended up cutting out some of the metal between the runners.
(http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i248/flowmastergfunk/DSCF0132_zps6982acc1.jpg) (http://s74.photobucket.com/user/flowmastergfunk/media/DSCF0132_zps6982acc1.jpg.html)
Why? I REALLY don't like trying to get these intakes on or off when the engine is in the car! This makes it easier to guide an allan socket or bolt in. This intake is much much louder than the gasser setup...which seems like a direct translation to the engine getting more air. No hot air intake comments. Please. :P
(http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i248/flowmastergfunk/DSCF0134_zpsc6275bfd.jpg) (http://s74.photobucket.com/user/flowmastergfunk/media/DSCF0134_zpsc6275bfd.jpg.html)
I was going to try to hold off on putting it on because I was going to have a friend make a phenolic spacer, but it didn't happen. I am sure phenolic spacers are another one of those hat trick gimicks that grant you an extra ant fart's worth of power, at best, but the biggest reason I wanted it is because I can't unclip the airbox cover with the fancy valve cover! The bottom clips hit the cover and can't be undone! You have to either take off the valve cover or the airbox as a whole. Kinda crappy :/
In reading about different manifolds, I did find it fascinating that longer runners apparently add to low end torque. A phenolic spacer would count as making the runners a little longer, right?:laugh: It would also get the manifold to sit further back and closer to the hood vent. There is significant room to move back without hitting the firewall.
I got my filter flange ready to go with the cooler setup. I just need to settle on what type of cooler I am actually going to run and get the fittings and hoses accordingly. I guess I am going to start by eyeballing junkyard cars. I didn't grab the volvo one because I figured I could find one more appropriate for my application.
(http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i248/flowmastergfunk/DSCF0135_zps850cd197.jpg) (http://s74.photobucket.com/user/flowmastergfunk/media/DSCF0135_zps850cd197.jpg.html)
Started putting some extra elbow grease into cleaning it up too. Got busy with a heat gun to finally get the vinyl strips off the doors, between the side windows. I got to brainstorming and started trying to see if I could get the rubber off the window trim. I figured metal trim would accent well and match the door handle trim, so I went for it.
Before:
(http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i248/flowmastergfunk/DSCF0136_zpsdc97c1a3.jpg) (http://s74.photobucket.com/user/flowmastergfunk/media/DSCF0136_zpsdc97c1a3.jpg.html)
and after a little cleaning and semi-gloss rattle can action:
(http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i248/flowmastergfunk/DSCF0137_zps15f3e1a5.jpg) (http://s74.photobucket.com/user/flowmastergfunk/media/DSCF0137_zps15f3e1a5.jpg.html)
I wanted to do the car satin black with gloss black trim, but I decided to work with what I got, as a test. Now if I can clean up the other 3 windows and rattle can the rest of the car, it won't look half bad :)
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G]http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i248/flowmastergfunk/DSCF0123_zpsee59561f.jpg[/img][/URL]
In case you are wondering, it is a pop up tent, and it is awesome!
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you can't just leave it like that....need pic's of the tent set up!
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haha I was going to take another pic when I actually had it out camping. Here is a pick from when I tossed it on my rabbit. Much more fitting on the jetta, if you ask me ;)
(http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i248/flowmastergfunk/DSCF0125_zps8966eba1.jpg) (http://s74.photobucket.com/user/flowmastergfunk/media/DSCF0125_zps8966eba1.jpg.html)
It has a zippered canvas door and a zippered screen door on each side, It has a legit matress pad in it, a full set of bedding, the little ladder collapses so you can fit it up there...it's pretty insane hahaha
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I do not plan on this engine ever seeing a turbo. The car? Maybe :) Abusive break in aside, I built this engine for longevity. As much as I crave boost, that will be a different chapter. The 2.0 in my rabbit does have piston squirters and forged internals...so I may end up boosting that before I ever get to boost a diesel. I will just be waiting to stumble upon a good deal locally on a 1.9, and then it will all be over ;) TDI's in the junkyard are the rarest of the rare...so I just want this motor to last long enough for one to get found and built on a stand.
Bah, put a turbo on it already :D Especially if you keep the boost at stock levels, you won't wear anything out soon enough to justify not putting it on; and with the number of TDIs I saw up at Tahoe this summer, it won't be too long before TDIs are a dime a dozen in your neck of the woods.
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haaha if someone donates a full turbo setup, I will run it. I am actually very impressed with how well this car is running without one! At this point, it's running so good that I wouldn't want to molest it. I will eventually start saving up so all my money goes into a proper turbo rig :)
It is amazing how too much fuel can make your car run WORSE! I certainly found the sweet spot. Some backroad hills where I was bogging out in 4th, downshifting into third, and still having trouble balancing between obscene EGT's and keeping momentum...now, I can hit them in 4th all the way up with happy EGT's. I feel like this car has sooooo much power for an N/A. I went to go help my buddy with his 84 rabbit diesel this weekend, and he was blown away when I drove him to go get parts. My tuna boat is way faster than his tiny little bunny!
I have noticed my car gradually getting louder since swapping the intake back on...it finally got to the point where I was starting to register it in my mind as an exhaust leak...I did not expect to see this...
(http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i248/flowmastergfunk/DSCF0139_zpsf3251a2f.jpg) (http://s74.photobucket.com/user/flowmastergfunk/media/DSCF0139_zpsf3251a2f.jpg.html)
Baffling. I know there were some little dents in it when my ex did her little "off-roading adventure", but I guess somewhere between the previous high EGT's, mixed with the overwhelming flow of my fancy intake;) it decided to give up the ghost! I am going to drop it off at my buddies shop come monday or tuesday.
I am pretty sure I had a super turbo muffler on it. I always thought it sounded pretty good, but it was still fairly loud. Sometimes when I had ladies in the car, I wished I had at least gotten a resonator installed. I know some back pressure is good to have, but maybe this is my car telling me that it wants more flow? The bigger the opening has gotten, the more power it feels like it is putting out hahaha. I never really looked into different muffler options for these cars. I usually put all my trust in my friends work. "give me x-sized pipe, and whatever you think would sound good". Granted, the system has been on there since I first for the car...really before any significant tuning or mods. Ever since I still had the toilet bowl manifold! I had him modify it once for the headers, and then he modified it again for the ABA downpipe. Now that it is putting out more power, there must be a better option. I am tempted to get a straight through muffler...but I am sure it's going to be crazy loud! I don't know if it can get much louder than it is right now though hahaha.
After this get's done, I am hoping to get a little dyno time in the next couple of weeks! There is a local place that will do 4 pulls for $60, but it says prices for diesels are different...and those prices aren't listed. Maybe that means they are cheaper? Maybe they charge more to hook up extra fans to push out all the black smoke? hahaha we will see!
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I loved my 1.6NA with just a 2.25" cherry bomb.. It sounded beast. It also sounds just as beast on my AHU M-TDI right now too ;)
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I did look at the dynomax site and it looks like they offer a lifetime warranty...so I might be able to score a freebie on this one. I may just end up going with the ultraflow straight through as opposed to the cherry bomb. I would be all about the cherry bomb if I was at least running a snail! That would be sweet :) Gonna call in and see when I can get the car snuck in. It is nice that my muffler shop is only a few blocks away from the homestead :D
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I just ended up going with a magnaflow. It actually sounds pretty good thus far! (for the two blocks that I got to drive it)
I am about to take a bit of a freeway trip to get rid of a trunk load of scrap metal, so we will see how it performs and sounds. It is certainly quieter than a giant hole in the bottom of the muffler!!!
They put a different tip on it for me too, so it will spew its soot downward. I hated the look of that old tip since day one, but I just went with it.
(http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i248/flowmastergfunk/DSCF0144_zps2edde561.jpg) (http://s74.photobucket.com/user/flowmastergfunk/media/DSCF0144_zps2edde561.jpg.html)
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LOOKS SWEET!!
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I hate VW instrument clusters :(
I finally ordered a Canadian cluster with a tach, got it hooked up, and everything was working BUT the tach. I did some testing, but I am so frustrated and tired, I don't even know what I am looking for any more. Tried to take some pictures and my batteries died.
I did test for continuity, but I need to figure out how to properly test the "W" output. I am just not supposed to have a tach :'(
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This is how my alternator is hooked up. With a logic probe, it says the blue wire is + and the W wire is grounded. Haven't gotten to check for a pulse or anything with a multimeter.
(http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i248/flowmastergfunk/DSCF0155_zpsa8d59920.jpg) (http://s74.photobucket.com/user/flowmastergfunk/media/DSCF0155_zpsa8d59920.jpg.html)
Here is my new cluster (not sure whether to be happy or mad)
(http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i248/flowmastergfunk/DSCF0157_zps8ae7acb6.jpg) (http://s74.photobucket.com/user/flowmastergfunk/media/DSCF0157_zps8ae7acb6.jpg.html)
(http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i248/flowmastergfunk/DSCF0156_zps41c3857d.jpg) (http://s74.photobucket.com/user/flowmastergfunk/media/DSCF0156_zps41c3857d.jpg.html)
Continuity wise, it looks like all three wires to the tach were getting a signal right up to the connector. So I am thinking it's not getting the "correct" signal, or there is something wrong with the tach itself.
I thought we payed big money for tach clusters so that things were plug and play, and we don't have to D**k around like this >:(
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I'm not familiar with that cluster but the one on my vanagon is the same concept with the blue flimsy traces. I had to test the traces, find the "bad" sections and jumper them with tiny wire (like from a CAT 5 cable) to get my dash lights working. Takes a lot of patience and some quick soldering. A magnifying glass helps a lot as well. Not sure if that's your problem but thought it may be a place to look for issues.
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That, Gizmo, is EXACTLY why I jump to the usage of the word "hate" for this cluster haha. It is actually in pretty good shape. All the traces APPEAR for be good. I have had several clusters over the years that have needed repair, and it is always maddening. It is because of these ribbon boards that I am AFRAID to work on these! I don't want to take it apart to fix something, and only end up breaking it more! I just have to work on my finesse and being even more gentle :)
The good news, the tach worked for a while yesterday! I reinstalled the cluster just to have my other gauges for the evening. It seems like the first time I revved it up past 3k, it kicked on! Later, I started the car again...no tach. Revved it up...it worked. This morning, however, there was no such luck. I got some good revving in once the motor was warm, but no tach.
The gentleman that sold it to me was nice enough to forward a bit of a testing procedure, but I am going to fiddle with it again. It seems to me that my new alternator has a weak "W" signal, or the tach is just "sticky". I had a feeling that the problem may lie in the connector at the back of the tach.
Even if it was for a little bit, it felt SO good to see how many RPM's I was hitting in this car hahaha. Something so small, but sooo good!
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Are you absolutely sure that your belt is not slipping?
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Good thinking, but I am sure. I pulled it in my garage this morning and checked thangs with my multimeter. At the white connector, I was getting 14v at the blue wire, and around 7.5v at the red/blk. Went to go check voltage at the tach, and it was working. Shut it off, restarted it, no tach. Checked voltage at the "W" terminal, 0.2v. Checked the other, 12.4v. Looks to me like the alternator is being inconsistent.
However, I did notice an error on my part. Maybe? If you look back at the alternator picture, you can see where I had the blue wire connected. The tab just north-west of that used to have a little "T" connector on it for a small bolt to be threaded into it. I took it off just before the picture. Anyways, I relized that I may have been using the wrong connector all the while. When I check voltage at the tabs, the one that I WAS using is 12+v, and the other is 0.2v. The wire itself is 12+v, so I am guessing it would prefer to go to a ground instead of another +
By this point, it looks like my alternator is NOT working >:(
As I have been running it while typing, the battery is already at 12.0v
With the white connector plugged in, It is seeing .6v on the red/blk wire. When it is plugged into the NW tab on the alternator, the voltage is showing 1.67v at the white connector.
This alternator is not old at ALL! It should not be giving me any grief!
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dug around for an old spare alternator to swap the VR and found an extra goody
(http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i248/flowmastergfunk/DSCF0158_zps209dab22.jpg) (http://s74.photobucket.com/user/flowmastergfunk/media/DSCF0158_zps209dab22.jpg.html)
Now I know what that 12v tab is for! I guess it is just a noise filter? Whatever the case, swapped both parts onto my alt and it is working fine. Tach kinda twitches a little when you first start the car, but stays at zero. Give it one rev, it jumps up and falls back down at idle speed. I guess it just wants one rev to get it going. Common?
I started it 4 times in a row and it does the same thing every time. As long as it works! I am cool with that!
Another thing I noticed this morning, my dash lights only work on the first click of the switch (headlights still off). Once I get to the second click, they turn off :( I am hoping it is just the switch...that makes sense, and I know they are finicky.
Hoping to finish the other wires for my triple gauges today so I can put the dash back together for good!
SO wierd to think about having a car with lights and gauges again! It is been waaaayyy too long.
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Finally got to check my millage for the first time, since I now have a working odometer. I drove 373 miles since the last time I filled up, and I put 9.3 gallons into it. That is 40.1mpg and I drive the PISS out of this car!!!
I can't wait to see what my millage is when I drive to Bonelli next month! I will have the tent on the roof, so I am going to try to keep my foot out of it ;)
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The alternator needs to 'excite' before it starts charging or sending out a W signal, thus the one rev often required.
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The alternator needs to 'excite' before it starts charging or sending out a W signal, thus the one rev often required.
I know this is common on heavy trucks, never noticed on car or light truck though...interesting.