VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.
General Information => General => Topic started by: Syncroincity on May 26, 2009, 06:20:40 am
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Since I've finally started to do some actual work on the van, I'll start a build journal as well. :D
1986 Vanagon GL Syncro...Wolfram Grey on blue cloth. Started life as a 7-pax van delivered to a Lufthansa employee here in NY. I'm the second owner, having stumbled across it in the want ads the very day I was going to buy a silver '87 for almost $5K. Tranny was toast, got the van for $800, in very decent shape for an East Coaster, just the usual seam rust and city rash. That was back in '00, I rebuilt the trans locally and drove it for a few years, then the mods started. I really wanted a camper, but at the time, Syncro Westies were way out of my price range (Hell, they still are! :P) so I found a nice Westy interior out in PA, and started tinkering. Then I contacted Country Homes campers in CA, to see if they were still building pop tops; they weren't, but Salim was selling the works to build the tops... with my keen nose for opportunity, I bought the molds. Made myself a nice pop top, along with 7 others and sold... well, two of them, actually, but I still have hopes of clearing my inventory someday. If you're interested, drop me a line.
Anyhoo, at some point I started to distrust the 2.1L wasserleaker, although, to be fair, it was one of the few good ones that escaped VW, it never actually leaked or mechanically failed on me, well over 200K before I yanked it. It was more the wiring, accessories, and general rusty-crustiness of it, it was getting very difficult to keep it running properly, let alone pass emissions tests. I decided to go Subaru powered, bought a motor, and all the crap to convert it... and then changed my mind. That was 2 years ago, and I finally have all the parts, or most of 'em, to go Diesel.
I have a factory crate syncro transmission, from S. Africa. Just finished shortening the input shaft, & put on the diesel vanagon bellhouse. I hope to crack open the motor this week for examination, and to prep for life at a 50 degress left list.
My plans & pipe dreams include;
IP fueling adjustments
Air/water intercooler
manual boost controller
Bosio AAZ injectors
Full instrumentation
2.5" mandrel-bent SS exhaust
Donaldson air cleaner w/ stock Syncro snorkel
Vintage Air A/C system
On-board air system (tank, compressor, chucks for airing up tires, and big goddamn air horns)
Two or three battery DC system, inverter, charger, shore power connection
...I'll spare you the wilder ideas I've had. ;)
I'm shooting for a late summer roll-out, wish me luck & good working weather, it's all happening in the driveway; she won't fit under the garage door. (2" lift kit, pop top & 15" BFG All-Terrain T/As preclude any indoor activities)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/mccavittj/PICT0147.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/mccavittj/interiorclosed.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/mccavittj/acshelf.jpg)
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Ordered up a 930 CV & Chrome-Moly axle setup for the rear of the van. I found a set of used race-prepped 930 CVs on Ebay... got them & opened up the boxes.. :o wow, they're polished to a shine!! Ex-sand buggy. Slightly under-sized balls with radiused chro-mo cage and star. Resolves any issues I may encounter with the lifted suspension straining the CVs. 21-3/8" Empi axles, and a beautiful set of drive flanges and T2/3-930 stub axles from Todd at Avery's Aircooled:
(http://store.averysaircooled.com/merchant2/graphics/00000001/930tobusaxle_med.jpg)
The front axles will have to stay stock for now, until I have a chance to experiment. I'm going to run race-prep T4 cvs on the inner, and stock outers, and I want to figure out if the outers will take one of the available VW chro-mo cages.
It wasn't cheap, but Syncros are fairly heavy and have a penchant for grenading CVs & axles when taken off-roading.
Motor is now mounted to a stand, planning on taking off the intake & exhaust for cleaning and mounting the DV oil pan.
Does anyone know if a stock windage tray will work with the van oil pan?
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the stock windage tray will work
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Cool, thank you. :D
I was informed today that the cro-mo components for the T4 cv are no longer available. :'(
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Spent some time tearing into the AAZ this week. First to come apart was the manifolds; the exhaust came off with suprisingly little protest. I had an issue w/ one intake bolt, but persuaded it out without resorting to the drill.
GOOD LORD what a damn mess inside the intake manifold... I mean, really. :P 2 hours, & 3 cans of hi-power degreaser later, I can call it clean. I ended up with a ball of black snot the size of my fist. THe problem is, the same coating extends into the head ports. I guess the only way to really clean them out is to pull the head & hot-tank it, I don't want to risk leaving a chunk of that stuff in the combustion chamber. I don't think I've been that dirty since my last CV joint party... EGR system is in the trash can.
Cut off the old timing belt, & removed the IP. I had some reservations about it, but I need to learn to set timing anyway. The pump looks like it's brand new! The motor was rebuilt in the recent past, looks like they went all out. One fuel line jammed on the output nozzle & the nozzle loosened before the line did, & rounded the nozzle flats, but I have some spares. I was thinking about doing a re-seal on the pump, but I probably won't need to.
Pulled the oil pan off. Pump pick-up screen has an interesting collection of grit on it. ::) Engine is equipped with a factory windage tray. Stuff in the bottom is black as my soul.
I have a set of ARP head studs on the way, I'm going to pull the head as soon as I get the right driver for the head bolts. Never seen triple-square ones like that except for the cv bolts. The block is rather rusty/shabby-looking, I want to hit it with a 3M wheel and paint it. Going to pull a freeze plug for a block heater as well; any recommendations on which one, or does it matter?
All for now... got that all done in the one day we've had that didn't rain...in the entire month of June >:( Not conducive to project completion.
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Yeah, after thinking about it, seems logical just to keep it as far from the turbo as possible; in my case the flywheel end of the block.
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Pulled the head off and stripped it... Made a compressor tool out of a 3/4" deep Craftsman socket; I ground out a cutout in the side w/ the bench grinder, & chucked it into the drill press. Works like a charm. A magnetized screwdriver helps a lot extracting the keeper halves.
Head looks to have been attended to during the last rebuild; I count 5 new valve guides and 1 new intake valve... The valve guide seals did NOT want to come out, but after I found the right 45-deg. large needle-nose pliers, a squeeze-n-turn attack got them out.
Motor has a 1-hole head gasket, but I'm replacing with a 2-hole to back the C.R. down a tad since I'm going to run upwards of 20lbs of boost max... That, and I can't find a one-hole gasket ::) Typical cracks between valves, all hairlines, nothing opened up, and I peened them all over.
Rough-stripped the block, and hit it with Russell Epoxy frame paint in black. This stuff is the next best thing to powder coating... takes a few days to cure fully and is really tough.
ARP studs are here, waiting for headgasket and seals.
Waiting on a few parts from Germany; a diesel Vanagon turbo drain line (the pan end) and a D.V. dipstick from Jurgen's Vanagon parts emporium.
The AAZ flywheel appears to be identical in all dimensions to the Vanagon diesel flywheel as far as gear ring placement, diameter, pilot hole, etc, except the AAZ is a lot heavier & thicker... so I'm using the AAZ wheel if I can get away with it, the van's bulk calls for some beef in the flywheel.
Shopping for a good weld/fab shop to make new motor mount brackets on the carrier bars; I have Volvo hydraulic mounts I want to use in place of the stock rubber units to damp vibrations.
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Just completed my very first DIY port & polish!! ;D
For those interested in the job... Took about 2 days, working slow w/ a Dremel. One straight and one ball carbide burr bits and a couple dozen sanding drums. I erased the cast lip that's inside of every valve opening, it makes a big difference in the smoothness of the approach and exit. It's very apparent to the touch where the material needs to come off; there's no guesswork, you're just in there to make it as smooth as possible. When the lip is gone, stop shaving, then sand it smooth. Don't leave any grinding marks if possible... Unless you have smaller sizes of sanding drums (if they make them) it gets harder to sand effectively the closer you get to the valve guide, so don't go crazy with the carbide up in there. Use the ball bit to erase & smooth out the marks and gouges left by the straight bit before sanding. Inside the port runners I just polished up as much as possible, I didn't try to expand the size of the ports or anything. There's a weird joint line where two castings meet that can be smoothed out. There was only about 1/4" I really couldn't reach comfortably, using the Dremel... If you have the narrower flex-cable attachment you'd probably get all of it. I think the most important thing is to keep the bit moving constantly, whether its carbide or sander, never let it sit in one spot. If you feel a sneeze coming on, move the drill away from the head!
Not difficult, just time-consuming... but it saved me about $800. Take your time, keep feeling your work with a bare fingertip. Don't clean the head too thoroughly before you start; a mild coat of soot in the ports serves wonderfully to highlight what's been ground and what still needs to be. Be very careful with the drill; be conscious of where it's pointing at all times, especially with the carbide tips. You can do the job with just sanding drums, but it will take a lot longer.
When it's all done, you need access to a good parts washer to rinse out all the powder, and then blow-dry with compressed air.
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Here's some "after" shots of the head. No "before" shots, you couldn't see anything for the soot anyway...
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/mccavittj/DSC00056.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/mccavittj/DSC00052.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/mccavittj/DSC00055.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/mccavittj/DSC00054.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/mccavittj/DSC00082.jpg)
The motor on the stand:
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/mccavittj/DSC00061.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/mccavittj/DSC00060.jpg)
And then, a funny thing happened:
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/mccavittj/DSC00075.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/mccavittj/DSC00077.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/mccavittj/DSC00076.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/mccavittj/DSC00079.jpg)
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My Crankshaft... Some scuffing on the mains, and the edges of all of the rod journals show a bit of blueing. Anyone think I should be worried about that? I haven't mic'd anything yet... the bearings were in OK shape, some polished spots on the mains, but all are getting replaced. The scuffs should clean up nicely with fine emory cloth.
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/mccavittj/DSC00085.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/mccavittj/DSC00086.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/mccavittj/DSC00087.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/mccavittj/DSC00088.jpg)
I ordered a set of H-beam TDI rods from Intengineering.com. I'm building this motor for low-end grunt, mainly because of the weight of the van, and the off-road use I hope to get out of it...I'm going to use the stock T-2 for instant spooling (well, as far as it's possible) and run about 16psi max boost... Later on I plan to incorporate a VNT.
(http://www.intengineering.net/images/tinyrods.jpg)
...I also just packed off my fuel pump to Giles. ;D. Hey, I saved a LOT of money doing my own port job, now I can afford the full pump treatment! (That's my logic, and I'm sticking to it ;))
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Miscellaneous Pictures & Gratuitous Bling
Zero-mile Syncro tranny
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/mccavittj/DSC00062.jpg)
New heavy-duty axles, Porsche 930 CVs race-prepped & polished, and the adaptor flanges
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/mccavittj/DSC00067.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/mccavittj/DSC00069.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/mccavittj/DSC00068.jpg)
Das Boot
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/mccavittj/DSC00073.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/mccavittj/DSC00074.jpg)
One of the cats, wondering why I'm in the bloody garage all the time and not giving her a treat
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/mccavittj/DSC00063.jpg)
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looking good jerry.
I too just sent my pump to a man named Giles yesterday. ;D
I was looking at those rods too. They are pretty spendy. I'm curious to know how well they work out.
Every day I get a little braver (and poorer) and closer to doing my own head job. Where did you end up finding the driver to remove the stock head bolts?
Sorry if i missed it above, but what are you planning to do about the Achilles keyway?
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"Going to pull a freeze plug for a block heater as well; any recommendations on which one, or does it matter? "
Every block heater that mounted into the block that i saw that failed wasn't sourced from VW [it was made by a Canadian company] . Make sure you buy the best one you can find. If you haven't removed a frost yet don't do it. Use an inline heater .
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looking good jerry.
I too just sent my pump to a man named Giles yesterday. ;D
I was looking at those rods too. They are pretty spendy. I'm curious to know how well they work out.
Every day I get a little braver (and poorer) and closer to doing my own head job. Where did you end up finding the driver to remove the stock head bolts?
Sorry if i missed it above, but what are you planning to do about the Achilles keyway?
Well, I'm done with mine for now, I'll send it down to you if you want to borrow it; otherwise look up "XZN" driver or triple-square on E-bay. Here's the one you need: EBAY LINK (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/M12-XZN-Triple-Square-12-Point-Tool-for-Headbolts-Etc_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp4634Q2ec0Q2em14Q2el1262QQhashZitem27a1d80e90QQitemZ170219015824QQptZMotorsQ5fAutomotiveQ5fTools)
I just got a TDI pulley... I don't really know a good machine shop close to me, my old guy packed up and left with no forward address :'( I'm considering trying it myself if I can figure out how to chuck a grinding wheel into the drill press. Maybe build a wood cradle for the crank so it can't turn... I figure you could just measure the width of the flat spot, then mark that measurement on the crank end, then grind perpendicular until you get close to the marks, and finish with a file to a press fit. Then again, If I mic the journals and they're shot, I'll need to get it machined for real anyway. We'll see next week when I finish this stint at work.
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Use an inline heater .
If you are talking about a heater that goes in the hose, then that's a bad idea. Because of the way the coolant system is designed and the location of the thermostat, a heater in one of the hoses (presumably the lower rad hose) will heat the coolant in the radiator and do almost nothing for heating the block. It's a waste of time and money.
Andrew
I actually have one of each. I figured to have the inline heater up front in the vertical hose to keep the forward section warm and the block heater for the back. The vans have a hell of a lot of plumbing in them...
How do the plug heaters fail?; burn out & stop working or do they leak? I shouldn't think it would be a problem keeping it immersed as the motor is lying over on it's side with the heater on the low side.
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/mccavittj/DSC00071-1.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/mccavittj/DSC00072.jpg)
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Use an inline heater .
If you are talking about a heater that goes in the hose, then that's a bad idea. Because of the way the coolant system is designed and the location of the thermostat, a heater in one of the hoses (presumably the lower rad hose) will heat the coolant in the radiator and do almost nothing for heating the block. It's a waste of time and money.
Andrew
I think you are right Andrew. I only mentioned it because of my big distrust of crappy, aftermarket block heaters.
I saw too many of them just blow right out of the block.
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How did you find a factory crate syncro transmission, from S. Africa?!!!!
I assume that this was a gasser tranny and you needed a new bellhousing. But the most important this is... WHERE/HOW did you get one, and how much was it.?
-Chris
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Volkswagen. :D It was in their warehouse here in NJ... Sold as "factory rebuilt", but it's a new one. Check with the parts counter once in a while, they do pop up. I didn't expect to find one, but there it was, locker and all, crated from S. Africa. $2600 retail, plus $1000 core. Yes, gasser bellhouse, of course... swapped to DV. Anybody need a new wasserboxer bellhouse?
...Hopefully mine wasn't the last one!
My decoupler just showed up this week, too. 8) I gots TWO knobs now!
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Just a thought... If I put in a freewheel alternator pulley, and my original AAZ crank nose is good and tight, is it safe to skip the TDI pulley conversion, or am I asking for trouble?
In a related thought, would a whole TDI alternator (120A) fit the AAZ bracket (has serpentine belt)... or did the mounting lugs change?
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After cleaning my pistons thoroughly, they seem a bit worn... Some erosion right under the pre-chamber, and one has a pinhead size cavity in the middle of it. The heat coating is well worn on two of them, looks to have been abraded off during the last rebuild. The areas that are bare aluminum had a couple mils of carbon coking built up, while the areas still protected were clean.
I'm going to get the pistons and head ceramic coated at Swaintech, but I'm not sure these pistons are worth saving. ??? There's a few sets on Ebay.de, hopefully they'll ship to the US. Anyone know of a N. Amercan suppplier for AAZ pistons? I have a new set of rings already.
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I'm having the same alternator debate, since the one you sold me Jerry is fried ;) the 120A TDI alt is $300 , the pulley is sold separately for another $60 and I'm too scotch for that, hell I could get another 30 year old VW for that price. Plus maybe you can use 120 amps in your van, but what the hell do I need that kind of juice for in my bunny? I guess I could run one hell of a stereo ;D. since all the MKIII serp belt alts seem to bolt up the same (nice setup with the spring btw, way easier than the using a 2x4 to pry it taught while tightening the nut system I am accustom too) I will keep searching, lmk what you work out.
Ceramic coating huh? first forged rods, then that sweet tranny, now ceramic coating, what's next? always upping the ante huh?
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Seems like it, right? ::) That's how these things go... it takes a certain discipline to install a motor without digging into it, and that ain't me ;) I want to do this right the first time. Ceramics really help with cylinder heat, keeping it in to do work instead of soaking into the pistons and head, and as I'm building towards a low-rev, high boost motor, I need to do what I can to try and contol the heat. The bills are starting to mount, though... as is the time it's taking. I can't see driving this van before November at this point... I just keep finding new tasks the further it comes apart.
My rods just showed up... I don't know whether to put them in the engine or hang them on the wall as art :D
I haven't checked my original 90A alternator, but I'll send it to you, no charge... I have enough electrical draws to justify springing for the 120A unit. Looking on Ebay. Ours are 5-rib pulleys, right? Also, do you still need a driver for the head bolts?
Did any gasser cars come with freewheel pulleys?
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Thanks I definitely want that alternator, it is worth a shot for sure. I don't need the 12-pt driver though I grabbed one off ebay last week.
Yes the pulley has 5 ribs, the belt is labeled 6V, I'm pretty sure that is what that stands for, since the belt does in fact have 6 ribs.I love it when they use a logical nomenclature. I found that pulley cheaper at tdiparts.com than I did on ebay. I wouldn't think the gassers would need the freewheel pulley, since they don't engine brake nearly as hard as a diesel, but I have no idea.
Same for me with time, project scope and money. In the architecture world, we call that scope-creep, the client comes to you for a bicycle shed, and you get all manic and lost in the project and come back with the taj mahal. Story of my life.
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:D SYNCRO-CREEP
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Update pictures :D
Pistons and bearings are back from SwainTech: Ceramic coated domes and lo-friction coat on skirts and all bearings and piston pins
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/mccavittj/DSC00126.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/mccavittj/DSC00127.jpg)
Block cleaned up and honed:
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/mccavittj/DSC00119.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/mccavittj/DSC00120.jpg)
Transmission decoupler...a part that was never offered on production models, but was on the prototypes. It disables the 4WD by de-coupling the driveshaft at the trans nosecone; but was deemed redundant with the development of the viscous coupler. Oddly, but thankfully, VW never deleted the tooling, tubing, and wiring required to install it, every Syncro comes plumbed and wired for front and rear locking diffs and decoupler. Not strictly necessary, but makes the van more off-road capable when paired with an aggressive (read worn out) VC or a solid shaft VC replacement adapter. May save a mpg or two on the highway when decoupled... mostly it's a syncro geek thing. Knob envy... I have two! Working on three, for the front locker 8) This one was made in Germany by a skilled machinist, several parts are available from VW, but a few have to be made from scratch, like the main gear set;
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/mccavittj/DSC00098.jpg)
...which replaces a splined connector shaft;
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/mccavittj/DSC00104.jpg)
A vacuum actuator slides a fork, which en/disengages the dog gears;
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/mccavittj/DSC00099.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/mccavittj/DSC00101.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/mccavittj/DSC00100.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/mccavittj/DSC00103.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/mccavittj/DSC00106.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/mccavittj/DSC00097.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/mccavittj/DSC00107.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/mccavittj/DSC00118.jpg)
I also installed the 930 CV joint output flanges:
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/mccavittj/DSC00109.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/mccavittj/DSC00110.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/mccavittj/DSC00111.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/mccavittj/DSC00114.jpg)
Here also you can see the actuator shaft (minus the vacuum can) that works the rear diff lock, above the output flange.
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/mccavittj/DSC00115.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/mccavittj/DSC00116.jpg)
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A little sidebar:
http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=21140.0
The saga of the Very Expensive Con-rods that Didn't Friggin' Fit
(I won the battle) ;)
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A few updates & pictures...
Haven't gotten much done last month, just enjoying the last of the summer. :D Re-assembled the bottom end a few days ago; while it was apart I took the opportunity to get ARP studs for the mains caps. All together and rotating freely! Replaced the one oil ring that broke the first time.
Oil Cooler System:
Here's what I'm putting together... B&M 19-row cooler up front in the top opening, I carved out a section of the vent scoop to provide some room for it. I'm keeping the stock oil warmer, but eliminating the filter with a spin-on adapter, the lines then go to a remote dual filter station, I'm going to have a regular filter on one, and the Amsoil 2-micron super filter on the other. Oil then goes to a thermostat, where it's routed either to the cooler, or back to the engine if below 175 deg. Planning on 1/2" line, not sure yet if I'm using AN fittings or just barbed push-on fittings.
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/mccavittj/DSC00209-1.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/mccavittj/DSC00201.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/mccavittj/DSC00206.jpg)
Intercooler:
This intercooler
(http://www.siliconeintakes.com/images/product/intercooler_type9_picture.jpg)
and this radiator
(http://www.siliconeintakes.com/images/product/radiator_26x7x2_picture.jpg)
The radiator will be mounted up front, in the lower opening, as shown mocked up here;
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/mccavittj/DSC00207.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/mccavittj/DSC00208.jpg)
Almost a perfect fit, could have gone even longer if I'd wanted by opening the sheetmetal on the passenger side more... there's a big void space behind there.
I've already removed the support bars, flush with the bottom of the opening; I'll cap the rod ends, and they will act as supports for the radiator. The mount tabs will attach through the sheetmetal on the bottom lip, and through an inner lip on the top. The rod removal was necessary due to the space they take up, even though the rad is only 2" thick, the rods make installation very difficult... and by tieing the radiator frame into the sheetmetal top and bottom, I figured it would make up most of the structual strength lost (if any). It will have to be offset to the left a few inches to provide room where the stock radiator thermo switch sticks out.
Pump is the Bosch unit used on many different cars (TDIs included)
Now to the engineering project of the week; the IC water resevoir :)
I wanted to have at least a 5-gallon resevoir somewhere in the intercooler system, but was having problems working out where to place a rather large tank. It hit me that I have a large unused space where the spare tire used to live, before I went 15" and big tires. However, that space is shaped... well, like a spare tire, and I could not find any tanks that would fit comfortably and without a lot of modification to the van itself. SO... we had a 55-gal plastic chem drum laying around (as one does) and I thought that might work, so I broke out the Sawzall and got to cutting... I cut off the top lid, leaving a 2" flange, then started with about 10" of the bottom, and cut it down until the flange fit snugly inside the bottom tray. What I was left with is a spare-shaped tank that holds 7 gallons. I have two 3/4" plastic boat fittings for in & out duties.
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/mccavittj/DSC00195.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/mccavittj/DSC00193.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/mccavittj/DSC00194.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/mccavittj/DSC00191.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/mccavittj/DSC00199.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/mccavittj/DSC00200.jpg)
Then I found some hose... and I mean HOSE... on Ebay... 25 feet of this stuff for $0.01. One penny (plus $20 shipping ;)) for some seriously overkill 3/4" hydraulic hose. This stuff will outlast the van. I was expecting glorified garden hose!
Think this will hold up to intercooler duty? Yes, that's steel mesh reinforcing, two layers of it. :o
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/mccavittj/DSC00211.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/mccavittj/DSC00212.jpg)
Stock Vanagon radiator fan, in case you've never seen one (A/C equipped van originally) This thing could power a small hovercraft.
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/mccavittj/DSC00219.jpg)
Cat provided for scale
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/mccavittj/DSC00218.jpg)
Finally, the intake... PD150 right-hooker and TDI Parts intake tube. The DieselGeek part (on the left) is too small!
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/mccavittj/DSC00213.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/mccavittj/DSC00210.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/mccavittj/DSC00217.jpg)
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Motor is just about completed, finally. Rebuilding the rear wheel bearing housings and setting up the 930 cv joint axles. I got the T3-TDI adapter input shaft from Germany, so I'm going to run a solid TDI flywheel & 226mm clutch. Big tasks that remain are setting up the oil & intercooler circuits, installing the fuel tank, and finally mating the engine & trans and getting it up into the van. Then it's exhaust fab time.
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Got the tank back into the van. I was facing some interesting tubing size problems... since the fuel pump is no longer in the line, and that was a big step-down. I was able to fit 3/8" hose onto the tank outlet, kind of a stretch but not stressed. From there it goes down to 5/16" at the fuel filter in & out, then down to 1/4" poly tubing for the IP in. Fuel return is the reverse, from 3/16 poly up to 5/16 tank return. I was about to make a trip to Grainger for line reducers, but I found a pack of assorted nylon reducer hose tees with all the sizes I need, I just blocked off the 3rd outlets with JB Weld. It's a bit of a hack, I'll probably replace them with real reducers later. The poly tubing adapters I had already from the engine's original fuel lines that were still on the pump.
I'm using a Lucas filter/water separator with a built-in push-button primer pump. The poly tubing I got from Home Depot, & fits all the pump fittings nicely. Not exactly clear, but I should be able to see bubbles in the fuel.
I don't think I'll be using that mongo 3/4" hydraulic hose for the intercooler after all, it's entirely too stiff, hard to cut & work with... I went thru 4 Dremel cut-off wheels making ONE cut in this stuff. That, and a hose clamp on the end has almost no effect. :o Way overkill. For the long fore & aft runs, the exposed sections under the van I'm thinking of using galvanized conduit, elsewhere I'm just going to use that red pro-level garden hose, on the component connections.
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Just an idea for you that I am trying in an off road bronco...alot of people around here have outdoor wood burning stoves. The line coming in from the stove with the heated water is called PEX. 100% flexible many sizes and attaches in seconds with shark bite style connectors. I am messing around with this since I sell it at work, but there are many cheap stores on ebay that have it too. Plus they have some different colors :D
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Thanks, I'll look into that. :) It's all 3/4" for the intercooler lines.
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great read, thank you
I'm so envious. I only wish I would pick up a syncro van for 800!
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great read, thank you
I'm so envious. I only wish I would pick up a syncro van for 800!
Thanks, wish I had more to report, simply no time to work on it lately. Motor is complete, flywheel & clutch are on, ready to mate up.
I need to sort out if I have the correct hardware for this and to hang it in the van, I have a feeling I'm missing a lot of large bolts. ???
Yeah, I got lucky with this one, the van was sitting at a repair shop, the owner just got fed up and wanted it gone. 'Course this was 10 years ago, at the bottom of the depreciation curve... Prices are climbing now.
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An idea I've been kicking around is a fan override switch, to put the rad fan into super high (a/c-on mode) on demand, when driving conditions require more airflow; like offroading, high engine loads but slow vehicle speed, to keep the oil & intercooler ahead of the incoming heat. I'll have to make sure to shroud & seal the sides of the coolers as best I can to direct the airflow.
A flaw in my design also occured to me; the hot radiator air will be blowing directly onto my spare tire-intercooler resevoir, I'm going to have to put a deflector shield on top of it. :P
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Holy Schnitzl, progress has been made. :D Mated up the engine & trans this weekend. I was unsure whether I had enough or the correct hardware to pull this off; I got nothing with the engine or mounts when I bought them. ...And I wouldn't have, except I installed ARP head studs, and so have a pile of triple-square grade-10 bolts laying about, which fit the engine-trans interface perfectly. ;D The starter bolts were a bit short for my liking, so I cut off the thick washers and gave them a few extra threads to hang onto.
I had to re-task the original gasser clutch cylinder bracket support rod, which meant hammering it flat, then bending it into exciting new shapes & drilling a new mount hole. I do have a diesel cylinder bracket, it needed some extensive rehab; welded up a ripped upper mount hole and stripped all the rust.
I used the stock DV dustshield, hammered flat with the center section cut out, and just elongated the mount holes a bit... no rubbing so far.
So... apparently a 1.6td oil filter mount is NOT compatible with the AAZ block, still looking for one of these for AAZ or 1Z block...
On to the pictures. Sorry about the soft-focus shots, looks like the lense was dirty. Note the Brickwerks throttle linkage.
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/mccavittj/2010-10-28_18-07-05_694.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/mccavittj/2010-10-28_18-07-48_183.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/mccavittj/2010-10-28_18-07-26_567.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/mccavittj/2010-10-28_18-09-29_331.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/mccavittj/2010-10-28_18-09-07_368.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/mccavittj/2010-10-28_18-08-05_186.jpg)
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Good deal. What turbo is it? I didn't check the entire thread sorry.
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It's a T2, stock on the Passat versions of the AAZ, and the only one that will clear the Vanagon engine mount... you can see how close even this one is, the wastegate actuator is almost touching the mount. The oil return line is giving me some problems too.
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As far as the oil filter housing on the block. You could use one from a 2.0L cross flow ABA coded engine.
Its got the one top bolt thats off center fron the 1.6L engines.
Nice build. Love the spare tank idea.
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Thanks, good info. I should rob it from the Jetta.
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...and yet more progress.
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/mccavittj/2010-11-02_14-33-58_884.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/mccavittj/2010-11-02_14-34-07_773.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/mccavittj/2010-11-02_15-23-35_857.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/mccavittj/2010-11-02_15-23-48_911.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/mccavittj/2010-11-02_15-24-20_881.jpg)
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Keep up the work. Looks like you don't have one of those typical Queens 2 family driveways.
Or you have REAL nice neighbors.. :)
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Keep up the work. Looks like you don't have one of those typical Queens 2 family driveways.
Or you have REAL nice neighbors.. :)
LOL thanks yeah it's single driveways on this street. Too bad it's pouring rain today.
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I know we've had a rough December and January in NYC (57+ in. Snow) but any new news with this project? Can't wait for the next update and the thaw...
Keep up the great work
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Icebound... Can't even get the garage door open. :(
It's OK, tho, keeping busy on the slopes, got some epic powder up in Belleayre, of all places. Haven't made it up to VT yet, but I don't
think they got as much snow as we did down here.
Spent last weekend in Pittsburgh watching the Steelers hand the Jets their asses. ;D 13 deg on the field... (I'm from there) The woman is a Jets fan... it was a long drive back.
Still stockpiling parts, I now have all the components for 930-type front axles, with cro-mo torsional axles, 98mm outer CVs and 930 inners.
Also got the new Rocky Mountain Westy modular bumpers which are on sale now, with an additional 10% off from the Samba ad code "samba10"
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Icebound... Can't even get the garage door open. :(
It's OK, tho, keeping busy on the slopes, got some epic powder up in Belleayre, of all places. Haven't made it up to VT yet, but I don't
think they got as much snow as we did down here.
Spent last weekend in Pittsburgh watching the Steelers hand the Jets their asses. ;D 13 deg on the field... (I'm from there) The woman is a Jets fan... it was a long drive back.
Still stockpiling parts, I now have all the components for 930-type front axles, with cro-mo torsional axles, 98mm outer CVs and 930 inners.
Also got the new Rocky Mountain Westy modular bumpers which are on sale now, with an additional 10% off from the Samba ad code "samba10"
Stick to NY. We had a fireman from Vermont riding along last night who said we got a helluva lot more snow here than what they received in Vermont. And looking forward to the latest posts when (and if) it warms up.
Of course, there is always Maine, but thats a longer drive...... :)
Stay safe, stay well. Jimmy
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The front axle components;
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/mccavittj/2011-01-25_08-35-09_859-1.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/mccavittj/2011-01-25_08-36-06_640.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/mccavittj/2011-01-25_08-34-13_496.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/mccavittj/2011-01-25_08-32-34_594.jpg)
Here's the snow we got at Newark... Drifts up to my knees, topped the bumpers. The Subaru simply climbed up on it and bulled it's way out. :D Impressed the hell out of me. This one has the air suspension, I can raise it up for conditions like this... similar to the Audi Allroad, with the same reliability issues, the bags leak after time, expensive to replace.
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/mccavittj/2011-01-27_06-50-17_1.jpg)
What was in the driveway:
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/mccavittj/2011-01-27_10-03-05_221.jpg)
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Found some earlier pictures I thought were lost. ;D
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/mccavittj/PICT1268.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/mccavittj/PICT1214.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/mccavittj/PICT1217.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/mccavittj/PICT1221.jpg)
The remains of the tank straps, fuel pump mount, & fuel sender... :P
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/mccavittj/PICT1223.jpg)
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Well, that last set of engine install photos was from November, last year. Nothing was done until lately when the weather & spare time allowed. This past weekend I got back into the engine bay, doing some minor tasks, then filled the crankcase with oil, and pre-lubed the motor by spinning the oil pump with a drill & 13mm socket, in preparation for first turnover using the starter...
I guess I should have done this a bit sooner. The motor froze up during the long hiatus, I was unable to budge it via the crank bolt or starter motor. I'm guessing the rings rusted onto the cylinder walls; every bearing surface was slathered in assembly lube, but the cylinders were only lightly coated with motor oil after honing.
Grrrrrr. I'm going to pull the injectors and dump some Kroil into the cylinders, but that may not help since it's tilted over, unless I really flood each cyl with a half liter of liquid so it can get into all of the piston's circumference.
If that doesn't work, the head's going to have to come off, and probably a re-hone of the cylinders.
_________________
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I don't think that happened... that would imply some movement, this thing is resolutely at #1 TDC at all indications. Intengineering would have some 'splainin' to do as well if my I-beam rods buckled under the starter motor. :P
It occurs to me that I never actually spun the whole motor-trans assembly after install... it's possible that the flywheel or the clutch/throwout assembly is causing a hang-up. I'm using the bigger TDI flywheel, and had to do some clearancing of the starter motor and bellhousing. Maybe I didn't do enough clearancing. ???
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So after ignoring everything for a few months, I finally dug into the engine. Turns out that the ARP flywheel bolts I put in were too long, and had gone through the crank flange and bottomed out on the block behind it, effectively locking the motor. After several aborted attempts to use washers, I broke down and replaced them with a new set of stock bolts.
The motor is now back in the van, and I'm working on hooking all the systems up. Using a Teleflex cable for the cold-start lever, and I may use one for the throttle; the new, stock Diesel Vanagon cable I have is about 2" too long for some reason...
I've come up short by about 15" between the engine coolant hoses and the existing van body hoses, looks like I'll have to splice in sections of straight hose; I guess the DV body hoses are longer than the gasser tubes. Yet another gotcha. I used the excellent coolant tank mount bracket from Justin at Greaseworks to mount up the early watercooled-style resevoir.
Got the vacuum line sorted out, and the fuel lines and filter mounted. I'm using this Lucas/Delphi filter assembly; has a built-in priming pump, fuel heater glow plug, and water drain. Unfortunately, I can't seem to locate spares for the filter element, so I bought a bunch of them from the UK on Ebay, as well as a 10mm fuel line check-valve to put in down at the tank outlet for anti-siphoning duty.
(http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/gg127/jrobertsondj/dced_1.jpg)
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(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/mccavittj/PICT1214.jpg)
this a water boxer? it looks just like an air cooled, but with water ports plastered over it randomly..
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Nice
How did you like the front radiator hoses I made ?
GB
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Nice
How did you like the front radiator hoses I made ?
GB
They are great! Fit like a pair of gloves. Do you have an ad up anywhere for them?. Lemme update this thing...
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/mccavittj/DSCF6074.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/mccavittj/DSCF6075.jpg)
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Weekend Update... actually a couple of weeks condensed.
New (rebuilt) power steering rack, new lines from Frank Condelli, new German Meyle tie rod ends. Finished it off with a set of poly bushings from Chris (Loogy). Note relocated resevoir in engine compartment; the tank bracket was originally welded in place right over the diesel engine bar mount holes, and had to be ground off so I could fit the mounts to the van. Cast around a bit for a new location; ended up tucking it into the corner; accessible, and a straight shot to the ps pump inlet.
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/mccavittj/DSCF0205.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/mccavittj/DSCF0204.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/mccavittj/DSCF0203.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/mccavittj/DSCF0202.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/mccavittj/DSCF0201.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/mccavittj/DSCF0200.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/mccavittj/DSCF6071.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/mccavittj/DSCF6063.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/mccavittj/DSCF6061.jpg)
Coolant system is finally all in place & ready to go. The silicone DV engine hose set, which I played a part in creating, is available from Justin at Greaseworks. Apparently, the diesel body hoses run longer than the gasser hoses, I came up about a foot short, and had to splice in some hose to reach my original body tubes. I got the front silicone hose set directly from GeeBee, he's producing them and they will fit any watercooled vanagon except early diesel unless you update the radiator...
***in' coolant tank bracket from Greaseworks as well, with a new 1.9L tank. Note also the spliced water pump outlet hose; I can't find the correct angled thermostat cover that the hose set was designed to use, I ended up using the nice compact 90-deg section from an original front radiator hose.
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/mccavittj/DSCF6089.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/mccavittj/DSCF6090.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/mccavittj/DSCF6073.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/mccavittj/DSCF6074.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/mccavittj/DSCF6075.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/mccavittj/DSCF6068.jpg)
Air intake system is under heavy revision. I have a Donaldson air cleaner that was recommended to me; I simply could not get it to fit/work with the Syncro snorkel as originally configured, with both in & out on one side. I had planned to put it behind the pass. side tail light, but this location is also where the fuel filler tube comes in, further decreasing space. I gave up, and moved it to the other side, but again, outlet config prevented hooking up the snorkel, the intake would not clear the lip of the side vent, could not get the unit in far enough... I couldn't let it go, I want my snorkel, dammit. :wink: So I proceeded to re-engineer the Donaldson. Sliced off the offending outlet tube and blanked off the endcap, reversed the filter element (cylindrical, with one end open and the other closed), and put a new outlet flange on the removeable cap, effectively reversing the flow thru the filter. This allowed me to push the unit all the way into the cavity, and I got the intake tube and the snorkel to line up. Used a new length of accordian 3" hose down the side vent, and attched it to the filter with a vinyl adaptor/clamp that came with the hose, one end "screws" onto the hose, the other got zip-tied to the filter. Bloody cramped quarters to work in, very frustrating job, but it's in. The gotcha here was that it went in so far, that the drain tube now hits the frame. :roll: Hence the sideways drain in the pics... I'll figure this out later. I probably should have just ordered a different filter, one that fits, but I'm kinda dumb that way...
This is how it came originally; with moveable 90-deg outlet.
(http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m149/awcrap_2006/100_25501.jpg)
During modification, outlet-ectomy, kind of a filter sex-change... :P
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/mccavittj/DSCF6067.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/mccavittj/DSCF6066.jpg)
After installation and snorkel hook-up. Note incorrect drain orientation... hard to find a position where I could get all 3 latches shut. Nightmare project all around, especially getting that snorkel secured tightly to the filter intake, not much room for man hands in there...
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/mccavittj/DSCF6079.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/mccavittj/DSCF6081.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/mccavittj/DSCF6078.jpg)
Syncro snorkel, transferred to the drivers side. It still fits on the mount prongs, but it's reversed so the openings face forward. If I encounter water ingress issues, I'll just spin it around and use zip ties.
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/mccavittj/DSCF6077.jpg)
Miscellaneous stuff...
Replaced the crumbling throttle cable tube with new nylon 3/8" tubing, leftover from the fuel line feed. I encountered frozen gas pedal syndrome a few times from water getting into the cable run in winter, now it's all sealed up.
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/mccavittj/DSCF6076.jpg)
Oil dipstick; I ground out a divot in the pump bracket, and tied down with a SS zip-tie.
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/mccavittj/DSCF6082.jpg)
Corrosion control: every fastener, clamp, and component that goes into the van gets soaked with this stuff, high penetration and dries to a waxy red shine. Freebie from work... 8)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/mccavittj/DSCF6091.jpg)
Fuel filter; Lucas unit with built-in prime pump, bowl heater & water drain. Left-to-right flow necessitated the crossed fuel lines. Turns out filters don't really exist here, so I just ordered 6 of them from the UK.
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/mccavittj/DSCF6069.jpg)
I'm having difficulty getting enough motion from the gas pedal to make full throttle on the injection pump. I cut off the stop flange on the plastic gas pedal, so floored is really on the floor, and I'm still about 1/4 -5/16" shy of WOT on the pump. I'm thinking of re-drilling the bellcrank under the pedal and the cable attach point on the pump to gain some lever action... anyone have ideas or ??
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This was a mod from a few years ago, but it's worth mentioning; I picked up some polyurethane bushings that were reasonably close to the right size, and "machined" them to fit using a grinder & drill, I found these in a Pep Boys that had a good selection of universal-style endlink and swaybar bushings. The swaybar parts were a direct fit, and have a grease fitting on them, just look for the appropriate size... 21 or 22mm, I forget. The cool red poly has faded a bit since then to a Pepto pink. :?
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/mccavittj/DSCF0128.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/mccavittj/DSCF0126.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/mccavittj/DSCF0129.jpg)
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Intake system, continued. I ended up ditching the big U-shaped intercooler in favor of a straight-thru style, since I put the filter in the space where the IC was supposed to live, and anyway it was going to be very awkward running the hoses for that setup... I spent a day re-designing the intake, using a kit of mock-up tubes I found a few years ago at a FLAPS. The new IC is 13.5" long, with 2.5" I/O ports. It's a stretch, but I got it more or less in place after a lot of trimming, pushing & shoving. The firewall needs to be either bumped out, or removed where the 180-deg bend is hitting it, I couldn't cut the hoses down any further without getting into the bend radius of the hose.
All hoses, intercooler, connectors, clamps etc. came from siliconeintakes.com
Unpressurized section; 3" to 2.5" reducer, 2.5 90-deg, and a 2.5 to 1.75" reducer 90-deg into the turbo.
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/mccavittj/DSCF6092.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/mccavittj/DSCF6093.jpg)
Pressurized section
2" to 2.5 45-deg at turbo outlet, 2.5" 135-deg bend to the IC, then a 180-deg bend comes around to the intake port.
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/mccavittj/DSCF6094.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/mccavittj/DSCF6095.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/mccavittj/DSCF6096.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/mccavittj/DSCF6097.jpg)
Mounting the water pump...
This is why I never throw anything away... this is a part off of the widow regulator from the Jetta. (Ask any MKIII owner, they'll tell you all about the windows in these cars. :roll: )
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/mccavittj/DSCF6099.jpg)
Figured it would make a nice bracket for something, and the electric water pump needs a home... but this worked out so well it's spooky. I was about to break out the drill and punch a hole for mounting it, but noticed there's a few holes in the sidewall that are factory threaded... and the bracket screwed right into them. So I insulated the motor with a few slabs of silicone hose trimmings to damp the noise, then screwed the bracket to the van. I had to substitute a big socket for the pump during install, wasn't enough room to swing the whole pump around.
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/mccavittj/DSCF6100.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/mccavittj/DSCF6101.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/mccavittj/DSCF6103.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/mccavittj/DSCF6106.jpg)
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(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/mccavittj/PICT1214.jpg)
this a water boxer? it looks just like an air cooled, but with water ports plastered over it randomly..
Yes! This is the infamous WBX. And it's exactly how you described it. :D 2.1L, very torquey, but only about 100 hp. Actually a pretty decent motor, but it really crippled the Vanagon performance-wise. A terrific upgrade for air-cooled cars, you can get them cheap from people swapping them out. Stay watercooled with real heat (and attendant cooling design headaches) or just add air-cooled jugs to it.
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Haven't heard from ya in awhile. Glad to see things are moving along.
Stay safe, stay well. Jimmy.
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Well, now I know the difference... I thought these Bosch pumps were all the same.
Not. :lol:
The Cobra intercooler pump is twice the size of the VW unit!
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/mccavittj/DSCF6124.jpg)
Of course, the mount had to be moved, it wouldn't fit on the wall like the little one; I ended up clamping it onto the right side engine carrier bar.
Subject to change, I'm considering putting it up front at the resevoir outlet.
Got the rear axles assembled yesterday, and installed them today just before it started pouring rain. Interesting how the 930 CV barely fits into the trailing arm. :shock:
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/mccavittj/2011-11-21_18-24-20_762.jpg)
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Just found this in a box of pictures... Late summer 2002, the Manassas VW show. First road trip after the camper interior went in; we camped at a nearby state park.
She cleaned up pretty well back then.
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/mccavittj/DSCF6151.jpg)
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I HAVE MADE SMOKE!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=29Q2UeMMiK8