Author Topic: Why cant I adjust my fuel screw? (Read 10734 times)

MontanaGTD · « **Reply #15 on:** August 03, 2007, 04:35:13 pm »

I dont have one of them adjustable arms with the 2 lock nuts on it for the wastegate - I know how to diable the BOV - how do i adjust the wastegate then?

bigblockchev · « **Reply #16 on:** August 03, 2007, 11:28:50 pm »

Do you have a setscrew with a locknut on the back of the wastegate If so you can loosen the 10mm locknut and screw the setscrew clockwise (in) to give more preload on the wastegate spring this will allow the wastegate to build up more pressure before opening. Voila more boost don't go nuts though try a bit at a time. Cheers Dan

jtanguay · « **Reply #17 on:** August 04, 2007, 12:12:43 am »

Quote from: "compu_85"

Sadly I just have an NA pump on the car right now. But I'll try that lill trick

No bits will fall out of the pump when the screw is removed, right?

-Jason

remove the fuel screw? I would leave it in. always measure each 1/4 or 1/8 of a turn you do so that you can bring it back to normal again. breaking the collar off is pretty easy. something pointy and a mallet or hammer should do it.

hillfolk'r · « **Reply #18 on:** August 04, 2007, 01:12:25 am »

the more you run the fuelscrew in,the more you have to bring the idle back down
do this:
start the engine+blip the throttle from under the hood,like to 3500 rpms or so
note how fast the revs drop
shut it off
then turn in the fuel screw a little(like 1/4 turn)
start it up,does the idle sound higher?it is usually only a little,barely noticible,like 50-100 rpms
if so turn down the idle a little
if it still sounds like its idling high be careful because if you blip the throttle as the revs drop,they may not drop,or it may run away!!! so yank the fuel solenoid wire very quickly if it does
if the idle isnt low enough,you will notice the revs will "hang" in between gear changes on a road test
its a give/take thing....
run in the fuel screw,you have to back the idle off
you will notice if the idle is too high,because if you road test it and rev out (lets say) 3rd gear to max rpm,and let off the throttle in gear,and it stays in"cruise control mode",,then turn down the idle

nokivasara · « **Reply #19 on:** August 04, 2007, 10:31:26 am »

Quote from: "hillfolk'r"

the more you run the fuelscrew in,the more you have to bring the idle back down
do this:
start the engine+blip the throttle from under the hood,like to 3500 rpms or so
note how fast the revs drop
shut it off

I usually adjust the fueling with the engine running...

MontanaGTD · « **Reply #20 on:** August 05, 2007, 03:39:23 am »

Can someone show me where the setscrew on the wastegate is so i can adjust it a little?

I have loads of work to do on the car today - thermostat is jammed - rad fan is seized. This just happened yesterday! Annoyed!

saurkraut · « **Reply #21 on:** August 05, 2007, 09:42:30 am »

Do you have a KKK or Garrett turbo? If its a Garrett, I think your only option is to do the boost controller thing (pressure regulator) in the waste gaite line.

If its a KKK, you may be able to get at it from the under the car, behind the engine. The waste gate can is a stainless steel cylinder, paralell to the turbo. The end of it should have an allen screw and a 10mm jam nut. Back off and hold the jam nut, turn in the allan screw in at leaste a couple of full turns. your first adjustment my yield little change. Boost is raised by turning the screw in enough to limite the amount that the waste gate can open. It will take a few adjustments to get significant results.

This works, and although I'm using it right now on my car, its a band aid approach. The right way is the pressure regulator route. But the fittings are metric, and its probably going to be tiough finding small metric hoze barbs around here.

MontanaGTD · « **Reply #22 on:** August 05, 2007, 01:50:39 pm »

Ok more problems!

Can i have a bit of advice Please?

My thermostat has been a bit sticky and my rad fan switch has been on the blink.

So ordered a new thermostat and seal, and a new rad switch. but in the mean time i rigged a switch on the dash to turn the rad fan on when it starts to get hot.

Now the rad fan has seized solid!

So started this afternoon in the poring rain by removing the thermostat and draining the system. Refit the thermostat cover and ran some rad flush through it. Drained it again refit the new thermostat and seal. Then refilled it with some water and anti-freeze - let it run for a while with the heater on full and the cap off the expansion bottle and filled it up - took just over 5 litres. But on taking it out for a test drive the temp guage went very high and the interior felt like a sauna!

Now I only have a fan which works when it wants to on the switch on the dash - but surely the car should run cool enough to get me to a mates place (about 30 miles away) to get him to check it?

I'm going upto his to collect a new fan and see if that makes a difference!
Anyone had similar problems? It never use to above the mark which is half way - now its at the 2nd highest white line!!!

bigblockchev · « **Reply #23 on:** August 05, 2007, 05:11:16 pm »

Sauerkraut I have found that 1/8' pipe thread fittings will seal up nicely in the threads of the turbo housing. A bit of teflon tape helps too. Doesn't seem to screw up the threads either as you can screw the original fitting back in easily. I think the threads might be BSP or british straight pipe which has the same pitch as normal pipe thread but is not tapered. Cheers Dan

saurkraut · « **Reply #24 on:** August 05, 2007, 08:32:39 pm »

Thanks!

HP · « **Reply #25 on:** August 07, 2007, 06:39:32 pm »

Quote from: "hillfolk'r"

the more you run the fuelscrew in,the more you have to bring the idle back down
do this:
start the engine+blip the throttle from under the hood,like to 3500 rpms or so
note how fast the revs drop
shut it off
then turn in the fuel screw a little(like 1/4 turn)
start it up,does the idle sound higher?it is usually only a little,barely noticible,like 50-100 rpms
if so turn down the idle a little
if it still sounds like its idling high be careful because if you blip the throttle as the revs drop,they may not drop,or it may run away!!! so yank the fuel solenoid wire very quickly if it does
if the idle isnt low enough,you will notice the revs will "hang" in between gear changes on a road test
its a give/take thing....
run in the fuel screw,you have to back the idle off
you will notice if the idle is too high,because if you road test it and rev out (lets say) 3rd gear to max rpm,and let off the throttle in gear,and it stays in"cruise control mode",,then turn down the idle

Just how do you turn down the idle :?:

hillfolk'r · « **Reply #26 on:** August 07, 2007, 11:42:48 pm »

notice where the throttle lever sits at idle,,,??
back out the screw that the throttle lever sits against at rest to get a lower idle

Sauerkraut I have found that 1/8' pipe thread fittings will seal up nicely in the threads of the turbo housing. A bit of teflon tape helps too. Doesn't seem to screw up the threads either as you can screw the original fitting back in easily. I think the threads might be BSP or british straight pipe which has the same pitch as normal pipe thread but is not tapered. Cheers Dan

us 1/8 pipe thread is 1/8 -27 threads per inch
bsp 1/8 is 1/8 by 28 tpi
just a little different,and bsp is still tapered
itll work if you are careful,but if you have to disassemble/reassemble a few times it can start to mess up the threads

bigblockchev · « **Reply #27 on:** August 08, 2007, 11:20:11 pm »

Hillfolk'r you are correct regarding the pitch of the thread for the turbocharger fitting. There is a difference of 1 tpi. My terminology was not correct, the thread I was referring to is a BSPP or British standard parallel pipe thread, not British straight pipe as stated. This is characterized by the sealing washer under the face of the head (which the turbo has) or o-ring. The BSPT or British standard pipe tapered uses a 1deg 47 sec taper on the threads to seal in a similar fashion to the NPTF threads mostly used in North America. See http://www.malonespecialtyinc.com/tech.htm#anchor133719
My apologies to anyone who was confused by the incorrect reference. Cheers Dan

MontanaGTD · « **Reply #28 on:** August 10, 2007, 06:21:38 pm »

How can I find out what turbo I have??

rubadubdub · « **Reply #29 on:** August 10, 2007, 06:46:58 pm »

Theres an ID tag on the side of the turbo where the air enters from the air filter box. Pull a few pipes off around this area and have a look what it says on the tag.

I'd be interested to find out what yours is. I checked mine the other day as im looking at rebuild kits and found it was a water cooled T2. Didnt even know GTDs had garrett T2s! Anyone know if they did or has mine been replaced in the past? (Apologies for hijacking the thread montanaGTD)