yea... DO NOT let the a/c compressor run when the fan isn't kicking on.. you will either blow your compressor, or the pressure/heat from the refrigerant will blow through a seal (most common seal to blow is the one from the high pressure line that connects to the condensor)
even though it's illegal.. just don't tell anybody :roll: :lol: i think red tek is on par with duracool which is okay. things that you might want to look into is finding out why the gas leaked in the first place.
so the a/c resistor is blown on your car... i can give you a scenario that i believe happened on my car with the P/O. hypothetical situation which is probably bang on! ok so here it is: P/o sitting in traffic with a/c blowing on MAX on a really hot day. Rad fan overheats and the ceramic resistor blows. this disables the low speed for a/c only. now i'm not 100% sure if the high speed will turn on for the a/c without the resistor, but if it does, that would surely lead to the demise of the a/c fan. on with the story... so now the p/o is enjoying his a/c and the fan is working super hard, max full speed and is constantly in an off/high state because of the high temperature high speed fan sensor switch. the fan couldn't take it anymore, and just quit working. something gave out... and now the carnage. compressor is still going... a/c condensor is getting super hot! connection from the high pressure hose to the condensor expands, o-ring burns up, and then refrigerant leaks out of there until the low pressure switch turns off the compressor and saves it. the motor overheats, and must be replaced. they sell the car and i buy it :roll:
i changed the condensor, receiver drier, and bought an r134a o-ring kit (comes with all kinds of o-rings!!!) and installed it all, and have decent a/c, although the high pressure valve was leaking a bit... you can just buy a tire valve tightener and that will work. hopefully thats all it was!
whereabouts are you located?