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Diesel Timing

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RennyD:
Help!! I am replacing both timing belts on a Volvo Diesel - six banger version of the VW engine.  It's an interference head so I am being really careful. I replaced the injector timing belt and am now working on the cam timing belt.  I've followed the mfg instruction - no. 1 cylinder - the one all the way forward on the engine - at tdc with both cam lobes pointing up and away from the head and I have the flywheel at the timing mark that is supposed to represent the TDC #1 on the Crank. Once I get the belt back on I cannot make more than a full turn before I have a piston touching a valve!?!?!?!  Any idea what I might be doing wrong?  This is really frustrating.  Help anyone who might have a suggestion or idea. :?:

Thanks
Renny

dieseltech:
do you have the cam lock tool?
and the pump lock tool?
you need to lock the pump pully first then remove the pump belt and pully from the head/camshaft.
put the engine on tdc and install the cam lock tool in the back of the cam where the pump timing belt use to be.  set the flywheel on tdc. loosen the timing belt pully bolt and tap the pully with a rubber mallet, so it moves freely on the camshaft (just a press fit), remove the bolt compleatly and put blue locktight on the threads, install the bolt snug, install the belt , make sure the crank is still on tdc, snug up the cam pully, move the waterpump to tighten the belt, tighten the cam sprocket to i think 20 ft/lbs, remove the cam lock, use a pipe wrench or vicegrip to hold the cam steady between the cam lobes, tighten the cam bolt to 68ft/lbs, put the engine back on tdc, install pump belt, turn engie over by hand.


note. without the cam lock you probably never get the cam to crank timing correct and you will have valves hit pistons.

best of luck
chris

BlackTieTD:
two small, but important things..

DO NOT (please) put the vice grips on either the cam lobes themselves, or the tapered end of the cam where the pulley bolts up.

..and make sure you turn the engine over completely by hand at least 2 times before you actually start it up. there should be no resistance. one tooth out means bent valves on these engines.

RennyD:
I don't have the CAM lock tool but I am not understanding how it is possible to have both in the right spot - cam and crank - according to the manual and have the crank off.  Should I just go to where they should be lined up then work my way forward and backward a tooth at a time?  I don't have the tool or access to it.  Please let me know.

Thanks
Renny

BTW I really appreciate your answers.

Giles@PerformanceDiesel:
i have personally done this quite a few times guys so let me pls help

it is imperative that u put the crank at TDC compression #1 before anyting
then remove the pump drive belt pulley on the cam and then remove the
cam drive pulley.

install the new belt on the front of the motor loosening the tensioner.
reinstall the cam drive pulley loosely with the bolt tight but so u can stll
move the pulley.

u have to find a way of lining up the slot on the back of the cam shaft
make a tool or buy it from Volvo. it looks like an shallow long U

                      [_____]

it goes across the head at the rear.

now with crank at TDC and the Cam " locked" u can tension the belt
after tensioning the belt u can torque the cam drive pulley bolt.

after that u need to install the inj pump belt and sprocket.

with the motor still at TDC insert the pump lock tool thru the mounting
bracket into the pump gear. the pump key should point toward the timing
line (top right looking from the injection line outlets)

with the tool engaged and the gears and belt on u can lock the cam gear sprocket.

after that move the pump mounting bracket up and down to tension the belt.

after that u will need to set the exact pump timing with a dial indicator.

hope this is some help

Giles

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