crank pulley question

[ezekiel]

I'm getting ready to start assembling my 1.9 (TDI, but AAZ block, so I'm putting this post in IDI since it gets more traffic anyway)

now, my caddy doesn't have any sort of amenities, no power steering, no A/C, just the alternator, but I would like to add a compressor pump for my air-ride (if someone even makes such a thing, I just assumed someone has made one) since I don't want an electric compressor tied to a tank, I'd rather have just a tank and a mechanical compressor.

now, my crank looks good, no serious wear on the keyway, should I be allright with just getting a new bolt, new pulley (I need one anyway) and putting a bunch of locktite on it and tighting the piss out of it?  I don't see these items really putting much side load on the crank.

thoughts?  thanks.

[tylernt]

That's cool. My father-in-law added an air compressor to his '67 GMC V8 with some custom-welded brackets.

I'm confused about your engine. You say it has an IDI block but TDI internals? I thought the TDI crank and sprocket were a D-shaped keyless affair.

Anyway the 1.9 IDI has such a weak crank/sprocket design that I don't know that I would trust it to drive any accessories except the alt and water pump.

[Chestrockwell]

The IDI crank is fine if you put a new bolt in it and keep an eye on it. As for compressed air source... I would just get a stock A/C pump and brackets and run that. I did it on a subaru 4x4 and the pump would make over 200psi and run an impact wrench directly off the compressor. I just ran a filter on the pump intake and always made sure the filter was wet with oil. The biggest plus is not having to find a pump, see if it fits, spend a ton of time building the brackets properly, sizing the belt etc. One power wire turns on the compressed air; add a pressure switch to the circuit and you got piss eyes.

[ezekiel]

thanks for the help, guys, I did find that alot of 4x4 guys are using A/C pumps (york pumps too, which are OE on mk1 VWs)

and since I'm not going to run it that often, I'm going to take my chances, I should be fine with a new bolt and some loctite and adding it to my maintenance routine.

[commuter boy]

You'll have to do better than "tighten the piss out of it".  If the crank nose isn't already damaged, use a new crank gear, new bolt, throw some high temp loctite on it (yes, it's different than the regular red loctite) and USE THE CORRECT TORQUING PROCEDURE ON THE BOLT.

It's a stretch bolt, and needs to be physically deformed to hold tight, and it's a real *** to do.  I found the easiest way was to have someone hold a 4 foot prybar wedged against the flywheel while I use a 1/2" breakerbar with a 6 foot metal pipe extension on the bolt.

Do it right, and it'll never fail in service.  Slap it together or use and impact wrench and figuring "it's good enough" will cause you problem$ down the road.