Author Topic: Rough Idle (Read 18132 times)

jimfoo · « **Reply #30 on:** June 03, 2007, 05:47:49 pm »

Well, from what I can tell of the diagram, #6 is the fuel solenoid. Maybe the thing you have pictured is for some type of emissions? Would it help to cut the closed end of a spanner to make a slot that would fit over the wires? My plug is 12 mm I think, but from your pic, it looks like yours is probably the same size as the fuel line nuts. Another option might be to get a deep socket and cut a slit up it for the wires.

It screws into the top of the head.

mansvw · « **Reply #31 on:** June 03, 2007, 06:00:39 pm »

as an open ended spanner don't fit pass the valve due to the size. but that's an excellent idea "jimfoo" an open slot on a socket. that reminds me of the slotted one sided socket you can get for Lamdba O2 sensors.
I think it might be a 17mm or 16mm from the looks of it. I got to get my hands on one of those sockets.

cheers

Vincent Waldon · « **Reply #32 on:** June 03, 2007, 06:43:04 pm »

Often a "crows foot" wrench will fit as well...

Vince

mansvw · « **Reply #33 on:** June 04, 2007, 08:05:38 am »

"vince" i don't think ill be able to get a crows foot wrench in there unless i remove the injection valves.
if it's possible to not remove the injectors ill try that first.

burn_your_money · « **Reply #34 on:** June 04, 2007, 09:31:03 am »

I think I have the same pump in my garage. I'll take a look at it to see if I come up with any ideas

mansvw · « **Reply #35 on:** June 04, 2007, 11:22:44 am »

cheers "burn_your_money" that would be great mate

mansvw · « **Reply #36 on:** June 05, 2007, 04:01:02 pm »

had abit of time this evening, so i got out the old grinder. I had a go at grinding a slot in a double-ended 17mm off-set spanner so i can remove the plug from the rear of my injector pump.

got it to fit over the cable, and loosened the bolt. I didn't remove it just yet because im still waiting for delivery of my new DTI injection pump timing gauge.

burn_your_money · « **Reply #37 on:** June 05, 2007, 10:52:17 pm »

I checked my pump and it is not the same

mansvw · « **Reply #38 on:** June 07, 2007, 05:17:58 am »

mansvw · « **Reply #39 on:** June 09, 2007, 04:02:20 pm »

Hi guys,

I've now bought my self a DTI gauge. I'm trying to set the injection pump timing, but im having difficulty doing the timing, and unsure about the flat spot. How do you differentiate where to start measuring 0.80mm from the flat spot? if that makes any sense.

Has anyone done timing on the AAZ, i need help.

When the DTI gauge has been set to 1mm preload after turning it, should it be 0.80mm or should the gauge read 1.80mm?

jtanguay · « **Reply #40 on:** June 09, 2007, 05:58:20 pm »

um...

basically you turn the crank until the gauge is zero'd (gauge stops moving) then you zero the gauge. from here you loosen the pump sprocket to adjust the plunger travel. turn the pump until it reads 1.0mm on the gauge, and then re-tighten. turn the engine over twice and re-check. if all is good tighten everything up, and be done with it!

jimfoo · « **Reply #41 on:** June 09, 2007, 06:33:30 pm »

Quote from: "jtanguay"

um...

basically you turn the crank until the gauge is zero'd (gauge stops moving) then you zero the gauge. from here you loosen the pump sprocket to adjust the plunger travel. turn the pump until it reads 1.0mm on the gauge, and then re-tighten. turn the engine over twice and re-check. if all is good tighten everything up, and be done with it!

Don't you "zero" the gauge to 1.0 mm when it stops moving, turn the engine back to TDC, lock cam and pump sprocket, then loosen bolts and turn pump to 1.0mm?

burn_your_money · « **Reply #42 on:** June 09, 2007, 07:29:41 pm »

Quote from: "jimfoo"

Don't you "zero" the gauge to 1.0 mm when it stops moving, turn the engine back to TDC, lock cam and pump sprocket, then loosen bolts and turn pump to 1.0mm?

Yes that sounds correct

turn engine to TDC
install gauge with 2mm preload
turn engine CCW until guage stops moving
set guage to 1mm (or closest mm marking)
turn engine CW until at TDC
loosen pump bolts and rotate the pump until you have the desired timing

The last step that I gave you is for solid pulleys, I think you'll have a split pulley so it's a bit different

jtanguay · « **Reply #43 on:** June 09, 2007, 07:32:28 pm »

zeroing the gauge to 1.00mm??? i don't get it... why do they call it zeroing the gauge then? :?

i did leave out some steps from the timing procedure as im sure mansv has the bentley manual to get this far... plus he has the AAZ... i thought that since pulley on the IP was adjustable, it negates the need to lock the cam... or am i wrong?

burn_your_money · « **Reply #44 on:** June 09, 2007, 08:09:05 pm »

You don't want to actually "zero" the guage (set it to 0.00) or you risk lifting it off the cam, which would be useless. I suppose "setting" it to 1.00mm would be a proper way to say it