won't go into gear... clutch?

[jack's lack]

so i worked on it for a bit and this is what i came up with
the arm didn't seem from comparison with the photos to be lifting too high before it touched the TO bearing

i def have the manual adj cable and it seemed to be adjusted fine but i might replace it for the hell of it

i noticed a puddle under the car fluid that is red in color (trans fluid??) also similar fluid on the bottom of the tranny in the differential area so i am really hoping that the tranny isn't fried

when i popped the green end cap off only about a pint of fluid or about 250ML dripped out and it was gray brown in color i can't see anything wrong with the finger as far as a crack it seems to have some wear and what appears to be heat damage



when i pulled the throw out bearing it had little metal shavings in it (never good to find metal shavings in a tranny is it?) and it rattles and grinds when you try to spin it. so i think it was at least part of the problem and i hope all of the problem

so should i just put in a new TO bearing fill her back up with fluid and see what happens??

oh and i was able to find the endcap several diff places online here in the states but no such luck with the finger (the bentley calls it the clutch lever) either way i need a part number for that little bugger. i found it on your candadian parts site tyler and it is called a clutch release arm. you canucks have all the good VW stuff

[jtanguay]

020 141 709 A - 4 speed
020 141 709 B - 5 speed



actually it says dropped on 01/09/2003... use as replacement:
02K 141 709 A, however the 4 speed is still the same.

[jack's lack]

got it  website called it operating shaft lever (how many names can one part have?)

i'll post up after i get the parts and throw em in and let you know thanks for all your help

[jack's lack]

so fixing the stuff in 5th end didn't do jack, so i dropped the 020 and i found the problem
only one spring left in the clutch, only found peices of one no sign of the other two :?
the flywheel bolts were so messed up (i suppose by spring peices bouncing around in there) that i had to use a 12pt 9mm socket and drive it on with a mallet to back them out.
the circlip was mangled and it did a number on the clutch release plate



 
so i ordered a sachs clutch kit and a lightweight flywheel, figured i might as well upgrade since i went to all the trouble to drop the tranny, hopefully it all goes in faster than it came out

on another rant, the bolts that hold the drive shafts to the transaxle, i stripped half of them out because bentley says it's a socket head bolt so i am going to town with a 6mm allen key on my socket wrench when i finally think to look at the bolt and realize it is a T40 star!!! (i got the stripped ones out with my channel locks) so i go to all of the hardware and autopart stores and i need a M8-1.25 X 50 socket head cap screw and they all have them up to M8-1.25 X 40  :x so i had to order them from bolt depot.com and pay more for shipping than i did for the bolts, which is the story of my life with an old VW in SE GA

anyway thanx to everyone who posted suggestions
i think i should feel a substancial improvement when i get the new clutch/LWFW/PP in

as always any further suggestions on this install are welcome and greatly appreciated, often the bently fails to mention common sence mistakes that i am prone to make, or hints that will make my life easier

peace,
Ryan

[jtanguay]

i think i payed like 5 bucks for my tool to do the axle bolts. 12 pt 8mm if i remember correctly... i would have shipped one down to you.

i like removing the wheel, cranking the steering over, and using the impact with a long extension to remove the bolts... quick and easy!

i did the same thing as you initially.. and some of the bolts came out... they were so dirty i had no idea until one of them stripped real bad...  :oops:  lets just say that the grinder was my best friend  :lol:

thank god i did it on a parts car though... no need for those bolts anymore anyways!

[burn_your_money]

You say that you have fluid around your axles, when you removed them was the axle grease really runny? You should seriosuly consider replacing the seals in there. It will quickly destroy your inner CVs if the grease is diluted with tranny fluid.

Yes, you need a 8mm 12pt tool.

[jack's lack]

You say that you have fluid around your axles, when you removed them was the axle grease really runny?

sorry i must have been misleading, i have determined that the fluid in question is PS fluid and it was collecting on the botom of the diff because that is the lowest point for it to drip from, the grease on the axles is nice and thick, and i have some more to lube things up when i throw it all back together, plus with the new bolts if the CV's go then they will be easy to replace,:wink: so far they havn't made a sound though

where do i need this 8mm 12 pt? for the flywheel bolts?, or to jam on the end of the axle bolts? mine had torx heads i just stripped them out with a hex key cause i mistakingly thought thats what they were, either way i got them out with the channel locks (aka slipjoint pliers) and ordered new bolts so it's no worry now

cheers
Ryan

[burn_your_money]

the 8mm 12pt is for the axle bolts. It's not a torx as you will see when you get the new ones. Although some aftermarket ones are different. I think I have a set of 7mm hex ones in my closet.
As far as I know the flywheel bolts are suppose to be 12pt 9mm

Glad to hear the CVs/seals are in good shape

[jack's lack]

i put it all back together and got it running, drove it around, works well.
the battery died after the 2+ months of sitting and it wouldn't take a charge, so i had to get a new one. still wouldn't start...turns out i forgot to reconnect the terminal 50 wire to the starter :oops:

getting the tranny back in turned out to be way harder than expected, and def should have been a two man job.

on a technical note the axle bolts are the 45mm length not the 50mm i ordered and used however the 50mm bolts only stick out 3mm or so and don't seem to cause an issue (no rubbing)

once again thanks for everyones help and timely feedback
Cheers,
Ryan