Author Topic: Engine balancing  (Read 2258 times)

March 22, 2007, 08:45:37 am

Fisher

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Engine balancing
« on: March 22, 2007, 08:45:37 am »
I'm rebuilding an 85 Turbo Diesel and debating on the importance of balancing the moving parts.  Like to hear others take and experiences on this.  Don't need the added expense if I don't need it.  

New .020" OS Kolbenshmidt Pistons reworked Rods and Polished Crank.

Reply #1March 22, 2007, 09:48:12 am

AdAm84

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Engine balancing
« Reply #1 on: March 22, 2007, 09:48:12 am »
it doesn't really add much performance to a stock rebuild. but, if you're going all out :twisted: , go for it.

Reply #2March 22, 2007, 04:13:24 pm

SMOKEYDUB

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Engine balancing
« Reply #2 on: March 22, 2007, 04:13:24 pm »
well if you can cut down on the vibratioins on the engines internals it will make it last longer.
12mm PUMP 'O' DEATH on a 1.6L
(courtesy of GILES)

2000 NISSAN XTERRA (5 SPD)
1990 VW JETTA 20 VALVE DRAG CAR
1984 RABBIT TD 2dr (SOLD)
1.8t AEB soon around 550 whp

Reply #3March 22, 2007, 05:53:53 pm

boosted_diesel_84

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Engine balancing
« Reply #3 on: March 22, 2007, 05:53:53 pm »
i work at a engine shop that does balancing, and on a stock diesel, its not gonna make $hit for difference, its a diesel, its gonna shake no matter what, and plus it isnt spinning fast enough for it to matter, if u were gonna try to rev it to 8000, then yea, by all means, but for what u are doing, no, and plus VW did a verry good job balancing from the factory, usually everything we see from VW is balanced w/ in 5-10 grams, GM is usually under 100 grams!! so that should say something,
.0020 over block,balanced,blueprinted,8lb flywheel,Stage 2 clutch,ported and ceramic coated head manifolds,turbo,pistons, SS valves, PP 2.5in DP,Intake, 3" ex.GTD nozzles, Built pump, windage tray,36mm pump,ARP Studs.etc.My build thread http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=15461.0

Reply #4March 22, 2007, 08:02:21 pm

scopefrfd

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Engine balancing
« Reply #4 on: March 22, 2007, 08:02:21 pm »
If you want, when you remove the pistons...once they're completely cleaned if re-used, no rings.  Go to a paint body shop parts store with the pistons and pins.  They'll usually let you use they're paint scale//they're super accurate.  You can check weights on the pistons and pins and move them around to balance the weights...if you really want to get accuate bring a cordless drill and a decent size drill bit and you can balance the pistons to all be exactly the same...only drill on the bottom side of the piston where the pins go into the piston.  drill a little on both sides to remove material..don't drill all the way through.  I did that on a porsche 914 engine and the pistons were all to within .01 grams of each other...with no out of pocket expenses