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#30
by
Doug
on 23 Mar, 2007 17:30
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If you haven't replaced the cap, why not start there? They are only about 6 bucks and way easier than a pump!
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#31
by
jtanguay
on 24 Mar, 2007 09:09
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well i'm going to be changing pretty much everything just to be sure... $40 for the WP isnt so bad.. changing it is another story!
so ctire doesn't sell the pulley for the alt... i'll probably just bite the bullet and buy one online somewhere, or maybe just consult etka.
and the WP... they've got around 4 different types... 40mm 30mm different bolt patterns... very weird!!! hmmmm
bah screw it i'm going to owasco and getting them to order up all the pieces i need... probably going to cost me though....! $40 for a pulley is a bit ridiculous... but it will last
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#32
by
burn_your_money
on 24 Mar, 2007 12:53
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the 8 or 9 bolt doesn't make a difference if you are changing the whole unit, even if you aren't changing the housing I've interchanged the 2 without problems.
30mm or 40mm is just the size of the hub that the pulley bolts to. It might even come with a new pulley but I forget now.
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#33
by
jtanguay
on 24 Mar, 2007 17:19
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the 8 or 9 bolt doesn't make a difference if you are changing the whole unit, even if you aren't changing the housing I've interchanged the 2 without problems.
30mm or 40mm is just the size of the hub that the pulley bolts to. It might even come with a new pulley but I forget now.
yea i got the guy to check.. didn't come with the pulley
i'm wondering if it could be the pulley itself... the alternator pulley is soo smooth and shiney! the belt has been 'buffing' it real nice :roll: i may try to use the soap trick to indicate if the belt is slipping on the WP, which i doubt, but is always a possibility!
just makes no sense to me... at idle the temp comes right back down. on the highway i can drive 100km/h with the heater on max and the temp still climbs too high for my liking... for back and forth to work its great though!
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#34
by
BlackTieTD
on 31 Mar, 2007 17:17
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any luck jt?
i'm experiencing a similar problem. car gets hot, within about 1 tick of red. but, the lower rad hose stays cold and the fan never comes on.
i've replaced:
- expansion cap
- all hoses
- thermostat
- waterpump & v-belt
- rad
at this point i'm thinking i either have a really bad airlock somewhere (although i've bled the system properly and filled through the upper rad hose), or that i got a bad thermostat from the dealer. i didn't test it before i installed it.
pics for fun:
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#35
by
jtanguay
on 31 Mar, 2007 18:31
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no luck as of yet... i've been considering an air lock myself actually.
i see you've re-used the housing.
man that looks like it's easy to take the WP off! im jealous! :lol:
the guy at vw dealership says that pulley's don't wear... its mechanical? come on... anything with anything rubbing against it will wear over time especially 400'000km and mean driving :twisted:.
in your setup it almost looks like the alternator tension is in direct relation to the water pump tension. and that there's only about 1/4 of belt spinning the pump (damn i hate v belts with a passion) my old '86 TD had the same setup... nice and simple!
maybe play around with your tension. i've also tried things like belt dressing etc... nothing really works.
one thing i should probably take into account was how i bled my system.. i ran the car from cold to operating temp with coolant cap off. then put it back on with a hot system (not a good idea, for those of you who don't know, this creates a vacuum)
i've just thought of that scenario... what i'm going to do tomorrow is run the car up to operating temp, give it some good shots once warm, then let the engine cool with cap off and put it back on. if that doesnt fix it.. i dunno!
i'm currently running some tow cool stuff from c-tire as a precaution too.. so when i say that my temps are creeping up to 3/4 mark, without that tow cool stuff i'd say that my car would be another tick higher. i'm surprised at how well of a job it does at controlling temp. must be a good conductor.
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#36
by
BlackTieTD
on 31 Mar, 2007 20:47
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man that looks like it's easy to take the WP off! im jealous! :lol:
the guy at vw dealership says that pulley's don't wear... its mechanical? come on... anything with anything rubbing against it will wear over time especially 400'000km and mean driving :twisted:.
in your setup it almost looks like the alternator tension is in direct relation to the water pump tension. and that there's only about 1/4 of belt spinning the pump (damn i hate v belts with a passion) my old '86 TD had the same setup... nice and simple!
maybe play around with your tension. i've also tried things like belt dressing etc... nothing really works.
jtanguay,
The pulley is just formed piece of metal that can be removed from the nose of the WP shaft. If it retains its shape and appears to be spinning true, I wouldn't feel the need to replace it.
I think the v-belt has enough tension in my car, I have it at about 2mm deflection and the contact angle is sufficient. From what I can tell, it moves quickly at idle without slippage.
I took some more pictures when I changed the waterpump, they are here:
http://www.vwdiesel.net/phpBB/viewtopic.php?p=56200#56200The waterpump job was not bad at all. The 8 bolts holding the WP halves together came out without issue.
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#37
by
jtanguay
on 31 Mar, 2007 21:35
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thanks for the info! i'm either going to try and change just the WP in the car, or i'll finish getting the m-TDI ready! got the m-TDI pump, just need alternator & a/c compressor for the serp belt.
i'm also going to be cleaning up the TDI.. all that soot on the intake can't be good!!! the buildup is horrible.
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#38
by
BlackTieTD
on 01 Apr, 2007 07:13
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cool. waterpump should only take a couple hours. the pump is about $40 through altrom or the like. not sure what your intentions are with the old (current) motor but it will be worth a bit if it is known to be a good healthy runner.
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#39
by
jtanguay
on 01 Apr, 2007 12:44
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cool. waterpump should only take a couple hours. the pump is about $40 through altrom or the like. not sure what your intentions are with the old (current) motor but it will be worth a bit if it is known to be a good healthy runner.
the turbo is great! i bring it up to 20 psi on occasion... doesn't take long at all to get up there! and the wastegate works perfectly too, but its disabled atm. (it was overheating even before the wg was disabled)
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#40
by
gamber
on 21 May, 2007 21:29
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Been interesting to read what has transpired here - I have just finished living it! It all started when just after purchase of the car three months ago, I elected to perform my usual changing out of all the fluids - engine, tranny, brakes, coolant.
Since I was changing the coolant, felt it was perfect timing to change out the lower rad hose and the thermostat. Shortly after this my temp gauge started climbing.
Temp running at 7/8 consistently and no fan coming on. The only thing I did not change was the rad termoswitch & the WP. Purchased a WP and elected to hold off until I exhausted a couple of options. Have not got around to the termoswitch - yet.
I cannot stress how much troubleshooting occured. Belts, changing thermostat again, second flush of the system, vacuum purge of air (vacuum lift I believe it is called), expansion tank cap, etc, etc.
The answer - OVERFILLING the expansion tank. The expansion tank is no longer transparent and though I could see the MIN mark, I could not see the MAX line or its level relative to it.
Long story short, too much coolant resulting in too much pressure, resulting in 7/8 temperature at all times!
Reduced the coolant level, and all is good - stable at the half way point.
Next job, get the rad termoswitch in place.
What is your rooking mistake the rest of us can learn from?
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#41
by
jtanguay
on 22 May, 2007 01:45
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well i got away with a bad thermostat... the dealer one wasn't opening till 100C... so much for an '87C t-stat! :roll: