it's alive!

[jimfoo]

Well, a first for me. I started an engine on my engine stand. I thought I got the timing right, but it was a bit hard to start, blows lots of white smoke, and
doesn't rev for crap. But it runs! Plus I got to play with the vanes on the VNT. I didn't have the turbo hooked up since I am not sure I got the throttle lever back in the right place after the governor mod. Figured I'd have a much better chance of stopping it if it ran away. It isn't terribly cold here, mid 50's,
 so if it isn't the timing, what could the problem be? I have one bad glowplug, but I'd think it should run better than it does. I timed it to .041". Unless there could still be a bit of air. I did crack all injectors and had an external pump going until I saw diesel. I am starting it on off-road diesel as that what I have for my heater, but I don't think that should make a difference.
Well, HAPPY St PATRICK'S DAY!!!

[jtanguay]

one bad glowplug will make it puff white smoke for sure.

[jimfoo]

Since it's cooled down a bit, no radiator hooked up, so I don't want to run it for any time, or let it get warm at all, I went back out and loosened the IP and started it again, then moved the IP while it was running. It idles much smoother and has no smoke at all. But I have no clue where I went wrong timing it unless my dial indicator is a piece. I turned it backwards until no dial movement, set it for zero, then advanced to TDC and set pump for .041, with cam and IP locked. I don't have the flywheel mark for TDC as I have a Toy flywheel, but I measured it with a dial indicator when the head was off and marked the balancer. The belt is tight, measured with a belt tension gauge. If I can't figure it out, how hard is it to time by ear? I think I got the throttle shaft off also as it just starts speeding up a little at full throttle, but I'd rather have that than a runaway engine.
Update: Throttle shaft was definitely off a bit. I don't know why there are 10 million damn springs on the thing, but I took them all off and just held the accelerator linkage on the shaft, started the engine and turned it until it just started revving. I killed the engine and marked everything and re-assembled. It now smokes black! YAY (turbo not yet hooked up).

But as for the timing, before I rebuilt it, the engine was running poorly right after my crash. Is there anything inside the IP that might get screwed up in a crash, throwing the timing off?

[jtanguay]

Since it's cooled down a bit, no radiator hooked up, so I don't want to run it for any time, or let it get warm at all, I went back out and loosened the IP and started it again, then moved the IP while it was running. It idles much smoother and has no smoke at all. But I have no clue where I went wrong timing it unless my dial indicator is a piece. I turned it backwards until no dial movement, set it for zero, then advanced to TDC and set pump for .041, with cam and IP locked. I don't have the flywheel mark for TDC as I have a Toy flywheel, but I measured it with a dial indicator when the head was off and marked the balancer. The belt is tight, measured with a belt tension gauge. If I can't figure it out, how hard is it to time by ear? I think I got the throttle shaft off also as it just starts speeding up a little at full throttle, but I'd rather have that than a runaway engine.
Update: Throttle shaft was definitely off a bit. I don't know why there are 10 million damn springs on the thing, but I took them all off and just held the accelerator linkage on the shaft, started the engine and turned it until it just started revving. I killed the engine and marked everything and re-assembled. It now smokes black! YAY (turbo not yet hooked up).

But as for the timing, before I rebuilt it, the engine was running poorly right after my crash. Is there anything inside the IP that might get screwed up in a crash, throwing the timing off?

i know a polish guy that can time one by ear... complicated, but an art for sure!!! black smoke is definitely what you want  :twisted:

check your lines for bubbles... thats about all I can think of.  I doubt a collision would screw up your IP.  if the IP sat dry for a few months, maybe its just really gummed up etc.  I ran some diesel purge through my motor the other day and it actually seems to be helping.  it doesn't start as rough which is nice!

[jimfoo]

Guess I need one of those piezo timing lights. If it is way too advanced, can that be heard, what might it sound like, and more importantly is it going to do something like screw up my bearings, wreck the head or pistons? Anyone on here from around Denver have a piezo timing light?

[SMOKEYDUB]

you really shouldnt just start up a fresh engine and rev the crap out of it .....

[burn_your_money]

It doesn't sound like it's a fresh engine at all, but you shouldn't be running it without any coolant in it. Something will warp, even if it's only run for a few moments. Your precombustion chambers will be extremely hot while the rest of the head is cool because there is no coolant to evenly disperse the heat

[jimfoo]

A: I am not coming close to revving the crap out of it, maybe 2500 rpm max.
B: it is a cold engine, I run it for maybe 30 seconds max, not even enough for the turbo to get warm. The pre chambers aren't in contact with coolant, they must pass the heat to the head, which then must pass it to the water. It isn't run long enough for the head to even get warm, so I don't see how anything else can get damaged. It has new total seal rings, new rod bearings, a new head, so I think it is a fresh engine. It only had 40 k on it before anyway, but I thought it got screwed up in the crash as it ran like crap afterwards, so I rebuilt it.

[jimfoo]

Also, this being my first rebuild Diesel, what is the correct break in procedure for these engines? And don't worry, I won't break it in on the engine stand. :wink:

[RabbitJockey]

i always thought break in was about the same as gas, don't rev the poo out of it, and try to put it at varied rpms.  don't sit at the same rpm all the time.

[jtanguay]

from what i gathered from what jimfoo said, hes got no radiator, but he does have coolant in the actual motor itself.

correct??? because honestly, if there is no coolant in the motor, that is extremely foolish!

[burn_your_money]

It has new total seal rings, new rod bearings, a new head, so I think it is a fresh engine.

I apologize. All the talk about it running away led me to beleive otherwise

[craiggroombridge]

The proper break-in is to load the engine (full power) drivinf from 50kms (30 mph) to about 90 kms (55 mph) then no load (decell) back to 50 kms.
Repeat 10 to 20 times this will seat the rings very well.. unless you use the crome molly rings, thease need heat and load

Hope this helps

Craig

[jimfoo]

Well, a first for me. I started an engine on my engine stand. I thought I got the timing right, but it was a bit hard to start, blows lots of white smoke, and
doesn't rev for crap. ....

After re-reading the timing procedure, rotate until needle stops moving, set for 1.00 mm, rotate until desired setting is reached? If that's the case, I misread and set to to 0 first, then rotated to 1.00 mm. Guess that would mean my timing was 1.00 mm off at first? No wonder it ran like crap! I'll have to try and re-do it later today.

[Vincent Waldon]

Actually I believe that's a misprint... the timing speck (1.00mm ) is from zero... so you zero the gauge rather than set it to 1.00.

In other words, I think you did it right the first time.