Diesel leak... Need help.

[2slo2drag]

Hello.  I'm new here and relatively new to diesel engines.

Recently, my car has been stinking of diesel whenever its been running over an elongated period of time, or if I've been nailing the throttle....

It appears that my car is leaking fuel from around what I believe to be the return lines.  Am I correct in calling those black woven hoses return lines?  Anyways, they must be leaking.  There is what appears to be fuel on the injectors and it looks to be pooling in spots around the engine block.  What hose would you guys replace it with, and where can it be purchased/ordered?  



Thanks for any help.

P.S. My camera is lost at the moment, so the above picture is just an example.

[neimis]

You are correct, those are the fuel return lines. They get dried out, hard and brittle from age and heat, and eventually leak. Biodiesel will accelerate the aging. If they are old and hard and they have been removed, they often leak when replaced because they no longer seal. Make sure you replace them with the proper lines, I just get about 3 feet from the VW dealer parts department, and cut to length with scissors. No tricks to putting them on, just pull off the old ones and push on the new. Might want to replace the end cap at the same time.

[truckoSaurus08]

Yeah I bought some of that hose from the dealer. They told me it was just regular vaccum/windshield washer fluid hose. Not to expensive either. I tried buying some from Autozone and it wouldn't fit the barbs on the injectors because the outside diameter of the hose was to big.

[macka]

its 2.5mm id FYI. If you use biodiesel, your best bet is to convert it to tygon. If you order from Mcmaster Carr, even after shipping its cheaper then the OEM stuff even after duty. Phone around to different local hydraulic suppliers, and see if they carry the tygon in 2.5mm ID, odds are its cheaper then the OEM line and it stands up to biodiesel.

[rodpaslow]

I've been having the same problem and have replaced all the hose with oem braided stuff (expensive about $48 / for 3m).

Anyway, I have one line I can't seem to stop leaking.  It's the one with the return going to the pump (short line opposite the return to the pump).  I've put a wire clamp on it to see if that helps.  I doesn't leak much, but the head is wet after about a 25 mile drive and I can tell that line is wet.  I've replace it with new hose several times and it doesn't seem to help.  Has anyone used clamps or any suggestions how to stop it completely?

Thks,

[Rabbit on Roids]

zip ties are the *** if you need a hose clamp on a small hose in tight spaces. all the hose clamps on a mercury/yamaha outboard are zip ties. and i use toyota vacuum hose for my return lines. toyotas are the only vehicle i work on more than VWs. first thing i do to most toyotas i work on is start pulling vacuum lines. and putting caps on the ones that dont need to be there. toyotas run so much better with no smog pump/emission equip/catastrophic converter. ive had great luck with the vacuum line tho. the toyota stuff is just the right size to fit nice and snug.

[macka]

ROR, thanks for the ziptie trick, it works like a charm.

[GEE-BEE]

Best clamp are made frpm Breezeclamp.com

I use the silicone torque clamp on my coolant applications

all else just a smooth clamp (silicone )type that wont wear thru the hose...

Gee-Bee

I used to sell ten clamp's ( 6ea 5/8 I.D & 4ea 2.75. ) for my premolded silicone coolant hose kit's for the Tundra's and Seqouia model's.

I had people think that all six hose assys and clamp's for 179.95 was too much...

[Jay]

dunno why you think the hose is expensive from the dealer, I bought 1m recently and it was only a few bucks.

[macka]

dunno why you think the hose is expensive from the dealer, I bought 1m recently and it was only a few bucks.

runs for 6 dollars a foot around these parts, which is about 2 pounds 80p give or take a few p.