Author Topic: Cold start stalling (Read 5305 times)

burn_your_money · « **on:** February 05, 2007, 07:55:38 pm »

It's about -25C out (-13F) and my car wasn't plugged in. I went to start it and everything went as normal as far as the GPs go, but when I went to actually start it it fired up after a bit of extra cranking and then it ran really, really rough. It ran for about 4 full seconds and then it died. I cycled the GPs (only on for about 6 seconds this time) and it fired up again, this time with very little hesitation. It was still running rough and I was giving it about 10% throttle. It made a slight difference. I noticed my tach was at 250 RPM, and it would jump up to 500, then 750. At this point my car stalled again. It ran for maybe 5 seconds this time.

I was getting a bit worried that my battery would start crapping out so I decided to double cycle the plugs. As I was on the second cycle I realized my cold start advance wasn't pulled out. I pulled it out and started up my car. It pretty much started as if it was a warm summer day with only the odd miss.

Any ideas as to why it would stall on me?

jtanguay · « **Reply #1 on:** February 05, 2007, 08:26:13 pm »

just wondering but i had the same issue when i let my battery discharge :oops: i boosted it with a good battery i had... started right up... i pulled off the boost cables and the engine died. yep.. i forgot to blip the throttle so my alternator kicks in and feeds the stop solenoid.

i'm having some issues with my alternator/alt belt as well. it gives erratic indications as you describe... when its not working right it will sit at 250 rpm and then it will jump right up if i blip throttle... i may need to swap it soon :roll:

-25C is pretty damn cold! i wouldn't expect my car to run good at that temp... and i would need to blip the throttle many times so that it doesnt die on me :lol:

Chestrockwell · « **Reply #2 on:** February 05, 2007, 08:29:21 pm »

Mine doesn't do much different in that temp without the coldstart pulled. Even with it pulled it bucks and smokes for a bit until head temp comes up a little.

burn_your_money · « **Reply #3 on:** February 05, 2007, 08:29:25 pm »

On the alternator issue, I used to have to rev to 3500 in order for my tack to kick in at all. Actually the whole alternator didn't work until I did this. I fixed the connection for the exciter wire and it works much, much better. In the summer I'll probably rewire the whole charging system. Maybe I can get it to read the RPM when it's cranking. I've only owned one car capable of doing that so far

jtanguay · « **Reply #4 on:** February 05, 2007, 08:47:31 pm »

Quote from: "burn_your_money"

On the alternator issue, I used to have to rev to 3500 in order for my tack to kick in at all. Actually the whole alternator didn't work until I did this. I fixed the connection for the exciter wire and it works much, much better. In the summer I'll probably rewire the whole charging system. Maybe I can get it to read the RPM when it's cranking. I've only owned one car capable of doing that so far

hmmm i think i remember seeing cranking rpm on my gasser vw's... but not diesel. i also had to blip the throttle on all my gassers to get the battery light to go out... and i remember boosting the car, running inside... walk out and the car is dead!!! damn charging system :lol:

i would LOVE to know maintenance techniques and what can be done to fix this problem. i think someone here mentioned the use of a resistor or something so that the throttle wouldn't need to be blipped. on a hot day it doesnt need to be... just when cold..

burn_your_money · « **Reply #5 on:** February 06, 2007, 08:59:51 am »

When my car is plugged in I don't need to blip the throttle, but my idle is at 1100 due to all the air in the lines

jtanguay · « **Reply #6 on:** February 06, 2007, 11:29:48 am »

Quote from: "burn_your_money"

When my car is plugged in I don't need to blip the throttle, but my idle is at 1100 due to all the air in the lines

i increased my cold-start idle to around 1100-1200. greatly increases my starting potential

and i wonder if i have air in my lines too... because my idle is really rough south of 1000.... hmmm putting rebuilt injectors in soon, and hope she runs smoother!!

mac.man25 · « **Reply #7 on:** February 08, 2007, 02:50:30 pm »

Perhaps a fuel filter is clogged? Mine did that right after I got mine started before I put in the new fuel filter. (The Golf that sat for 5 years)

Cullen

burn_your_money · « **Reply #8 on:** February 08, 2007, 03:21:09 pm »

I changed the fuel filter about 3 months ago, or 25xxx kms ago. How long are they good for usually?

mac.man25 · « **Reply #9 on:** February 08, 2007, 03:54:42 pm »

No idea.

Bump for the man in need.

burn_your_money · « **Reply #10 on:** February 08, 2007, 04:15:27 pm »

My car hasn't given me a problem since them and I'm not really worried about it. I finally got around to checking my timing and it's at 1.00, I'm not sure if the extra 0.10 would be worth the hassle.

Thanks for all the help so far guys, it's awesome to be able to get so many suggestions so quickly

BlackTieTD · « **Reply #11 on:** February 08, 2007, 04:32:30 pm »

Quote from: jtanguay

i would LOVE to know maintenance techniques and what can be done to fix this problem. i think someone here mentioned the use of a resistor or something so that the throttle wouldn't need to be blipped. on a hot day it doesnt need to be... just when cold..

transpo adjustable voltage regulator.

i ordered mine from my local starter/alternator shop for my corrado. its purpose then was so that i could set the voltage above 12.5 so that the G60 ECU would get its required voltage. i had it at about 14, 14.5.

its second function was that i never again had the little battery light on the dash and had to blip the throttle to get rid of it. just start the car, and the alternator would begin charging, no more dash light or blip.

i have not tried this in a diesel car. just looked, can't find a part number either.... if you can get the correct part to replace the voltage regulator in your alternator then i don't see any reason why this wouldn't solve the 'blip' issue.

wyldman · « **Reply #12 on:** February 08, 2007, 06:07:54 pm »

The car stalled because the cylinder temps are too low to ignite the fuel.It's been really cold here lately,so unless you double cycle the plugs,have really good clean injectors,and good compression,cold starting will be a little rough.

Double cycling the plugs,as well as a little bit of throttle input should be enough to get it to go first try.You just need enough throttle to keep it running,without flooding it with fuel that will not ignite.if it still misses and farts,you may have a bad glow plug,a bad injector,or low compression on that cylinder.Air in the lines will make it hard to keep running too.