Author Topic: 1.5 Is Mine (Read 4642 times)

Typrus · « **on:** January 25, 2007, 11:19:43 am »

1.5L IDI NA. Coupled to a 4-speed manual.

Got it from the school. They said they'd think of some tool to trade for, but its essentially next to nothing regardless. Right now its weighing the back of my Tercel way down. Lol.
Everything looks alright for the most part. No serious oil leakage signs. Typical underhood grime for the most part.

I can't find any cracked seals that are obvious from the outside. Guess I won't know till I crack into it though.
What does bleeding the system involve??

The wiring is trashed. All I have is short leads off of the few sensors I could find, a lead off the GlowPlug circuit, and one to the solenoid on the IP. Can anyone tell me how I'd go about repairing this?

At some point I'll set it up on a test bench. Lilkely use a fuel can suspended above it and my spare Tercel radiator. Any tips for that?

If I take the half-shafts off, will the diff guts be exposed? I know in some they spline internally, but it looks like these just bolt on. Will taking them off just leave a flange and in now way expose the tranny/diff innerds? I hope thats the case so I can store it that way until I find a use for it.

I really could use some input of anything to look for, plus's, minus's, etc. If anyone has any thoughts, please let them be heard.

Thanks in advance.

burn_your_money · « **Reply #1 on:** January 25, 2007, 03:10:11 pm »

If you take off the CVs you're left with the flanges. You won't see into the diff. You can remove the flanges and then you can kind of see. Check out www.brokevw.com

What do you want to fix with the wiring?

Can you find the tranny code for me?

Typrus · « **Reply #2 on:** January 25, 2007, 04:16:40 pm »

Its hidden. Looks like it actually might be a 5 though. It wouldn't push in any further when I tried the first few times, but this time it did. Mechanism out fully, goes one way. In slightly, both ways, in a little more, both ways, then in all the way, only one way. Either 5 speeds or somethings screwy >.<

So I went and looked again. Turns out some cable to behind the IP and one into the tranny were snipped (wonderful) while it was being removed. What are they for?

Both wires to the glow plugs are cut. Several sensors, including one off the head, some in coolant lines, and maybe one on the tranny, are also sans connections. IP solenoid is sans connection.

This could turn into a frustration. We'll see.

What ratios do the 4 and 5's have in them?

The code is under the trans, isn't it. If so, I can't get to it until I pull it.

burn_your_money · « **Reply #3 on:** January 25, 2007, 04:57:23 pm »

the cable behind the IP is the cold start lever and I don't know about the one on the tranny, I'd need a picture.
Yes the code is on the bottom, slightly closer to the front though

LeeG · « **Reply #4 on:** January 25, 2007, 10:47:20 pm »

cable to tranny = speedo?
wire to tranny = reverse

engine wires:
One oil pressure in head, one at filter
One water temp
one glow plug wire
one fuel solenoid
2 or 3 to alternator
2 to starter

You only need to hook up fuel relay make it run

vwmike · « **Reply #5 on:** January 26, 2007, 01:14:50 am »

Does the trans mount on the nose cone of the trans bolt downward with 4 bolts or does it have 2 bolts going across it?

Typrus · « **Reply #6 on:** January 26, 2007, 06:29:42 am »

Without going out to look I'd say 2 across the top. I'll have to check on the way to school and get back to you on that.

Wire? ... Again, I'll have to look. I figured it'd be just another position.

Wow, the oil pressure is easy to get to (or at least one of them) should be easy to tee into if I so desire later.

I'll give it a few more look-overs. Thanks guys.

vwmike · « **Reply #7 on:** January 26, 2007, 02:03:34 pm »

Quote from: Typrus

Without going out to look I'd say 2 across the top.

Then it should be a 5 speed.

Typrus · « **Reply #8 on:** January 26, 2007, 02:48:40 pm »

Ok. I guess I just either missed the fifth or it wouldn't engage the first time.

What size are the stupid bolts on the CV flanges? None of my allens or Torx fit. Too small or too big. I want to get them off....

Oh yeah, duh... Reverse switch wire. I was thinking of a shifter type wire or something. Lol.

The vacuum pump, where it goes to the block, has a tee-off... The part where it looks like it should tee up is busted off... Where had that gone? Also, every other vacuum pump connection is gone, though the big one can be assumed to be the booster I'd imagine.

There are 2 sensors coming off one of the heater hoses. They each have 1 wire, but they appear to be a 2-wire set a little further up.
I only found the one sensor off the head. Didn't see any by the filter pad. Maybe I just didn't look hard enough.

tylernt · « **Reply #9 on:** January 27, 2007, 09:09:52 am »

Quote

What size are the stupid bolts on the CV flanges? None of my allens or Torx fit. Too small or too big. I want to get them off....

8mm triplesquare IIRC. They like to strip, so clean them with a paper clip and hammer your tool in before breaking them loose.

Quote

The vacuum pump, where it goes to the block, has a tee-off... The part where it looks like it should tee up is busted off... Where had that gone? Also, every other vacuum pump connection is gone, though the big one can be assumed to be the booster I'd imagine.

The connection on top goes to the brake booster. On the side it goes to the engine block. The tee is an optional addition. These engines have "runaway" issues where they draw lube oil into the intake via the valve cover breather hose and run to scary RPMs. Some people have used two tees to connect the breather with the crankcase vent to try to keep some of that oil mist out of the intake (hoping some of it will drain down this new connection).

Quote

There are 2 sensors coming off one of the heater hoses. They each have 1 wire, but they appear to be a 2-wire set a little further up.

The two temperature sensors are the same, one runs the glow plug relay and the other runs the temp gauge (though one will be a switch if you have a temp idiot light). They are each one wire, the engine ground provides the other "wire". So I'm not sure where those other wires are coming from.

Quote

I only found the one sensor off the head. Didn't see any by the filter pad. Maybe I just didn't look hard enough.

Later diesels have two oil pressure sensors, one on the oil filter and one on the head. Older models only have one.

Typrus · « **Reply #10 on:** January 27, 2007, 09:33:36 am »

Excellent.
For clarification.... IIRC=If I Remember Correctly, right?
Well, why not use a CCV filter mod? I have one I made myself out of some PVC and some copper pot scrubbies on the 1Z and the clear reinforced PVC hose has yet to have oil residue on the post-filter side. I've collected maybe 2 tbsp out of it so far. Thats in the space of maybe 1-2k miles. Heh... It stripped my T-40 Torx head and the bolts on the flange just laughed at my poor tool. lol. I wonder if Sears has an 8mm triplesquare....

I figured the big plastic hose went to the booster. The other seems to go to the block, just that there is a snapped tee right at the block. Dunno if I should just nuke it.
Now that I think of it, it looks a lot like the tee on the 1Z's CCV "puck" that goes back down...

I meant that they each have a single wire, but that further up, they are 1 piece. You know, like if you have some stereo wire it starts as a single piece, but you pull the 2 strands apart to go to the different speaker connections. Like that.

Sorry I don't have any pics yet. My digi is misbehaving.

tylernt · « **Reply #11 on:** January 27, 2007, 09:59:36 am »

Quote

For clarification.... IIRC=If I Remember Correctly, right?

Yep

Quote

Well, why not use a CCV filter mod?

Yeah, that should work too.

Quote

I meant that they each have a single wire, but that further up, they are 1 piece. You know, like if you have some stereo wire it starts as a single piece, but you pull the 2 strands apart to go to the different speaker connections.

Hmm. Maybe it's not factory,then. I've never seen that anywhere in a VW before.

Typrus · « **Reply #12 on:** January 28, 2007, 11:43:00 am »

On diff-
WWO , .2, 020, 301, 103, F

On tranny- FF30109

I had a DUH moment. Why not use a mirror to get under the tranny? Heh.

I also pulled the AC compressor, starter, intake mannie, both brake calipers and rotors, and one control arm (other one was in too inconvenient a place) so maybe 45lbs worth of stuff? Anything to help my poor Terc. Lol.

So going off of BrokeVW's site, I'd assume this is an 020 "FF" model? 2 overdrives. Sweet. How tough is she?

Though it does have 2 overdrives.... 3.89 diff and 0.76 5th... Thats 2.9564 final. Compared to the Terc's 3.73 diff and .83 5th... 3.0959... So it is a bit of an improvement. Any bit helps of course.

2500RPM 3.73 R&P .83 Gear Ratio 22.646" Diameter tires- 54.404MPH
2500RPM 3.89 R&P .76 Gear Ratio 22.646" Diameter tires- 56.971MPH

Eh. Nearly 3 mph at 2500. How about 3500? Good for a 79.759MPH on the VW and 76.165MPH on the Toy.

Well how about with some bigger tires? Lets say, instead of 175/70R13 we do 195/60R15? 24.213" D versus the 22.646 of the others. Say we keep 175's with the Toy and go 195's with the VW-
3000RPM Toyota Ratios with 22.646" tires- 65.285MPH
3000RPM VW Ratios with 24.213" tires- 73.096MPH
Now thats a bit more like it.

But say I want to keep the RPM's milling around 2500RPM (peak torque stock) at 75? What would that take tire-wise?
30" tires with the VW ratios and 31.25" with the Toyota. Jeeze. Those size tires alone would grenade the Toyota tranny lol.

Any way, semi-easily, to drop the ratios more? Would the little 1.5L propel a 2200lb wagon at 75mph around 2500RPM?

speedy · « **Reply #13 on:** January 28, 2007, 07:38:41 pm »

Quote from: Typrus

Any way, semi-easily, to drop the ratios more? Would the little 1.5L propel a 2200lb wagon at 75mph around 2500RPM?

My guess is that it would not. Weight is practically irrelevent at 75mph - it's all about wind resistance and I seriously doubt the 1.5NA would be making enough hp at 2500rpm to overcome the wind resistance, even at full throttle. That motor could barely propel a 2100lb A1 Golf to 65mph at ~4000rpm.

-Dave