mTDI / TDI-M Injection Pump FAQ

[Buji88]

William smith has an ad in the classifieds.
 I got my pump from him.
 It needed a shaft seal but I think it will run fine once I get injectors that aren't pissers.

Thank you so much, going to look at this ALH on Saturday, hope to buy and start on my second engine for my sidekick:)

[Chuck1978]

William smith has an ad in the classifieds.
 I got my pump from him.
 It needed a shaft seal but I think it will run fine once I get injectors that aren't pissers.

Thank you so much, going to look at this ALH on Saturday, hope to buy and start on my second engine for my sidekick:)

Did you pick up the ALH?  I should have warned, the Sidekick/Tracker/SunRunner and other small engine bodied 4x4 vehicles often require some drastic measures to obtain a good clearance between the oil pan and the front differential or front solid axle high steer tie rod and differential... clocking the engine over at 19 or 21 degrees (valve cover to passenger side fender top, oil pan away from passenger side drop differential) helps with clearance and reduces the ALH installed height by 2 inches. The AHU/1Z is the best choice for these installs due to the oil pump location being in the rear out of the way (allowing custom modifications to the oil pan for diff/steering components), even up to as large  as the 1979-1985 Toyota pickup trucks with solid front axles (and 85-95 pickups and 96+ Tacomas with solid axle swaps).
I have an ALH swap on the stand awaiting install in my SPOA Suzuki Samurai, which will not be a straightforward swap, but will be doable with many alterations.  Longer front leafs and axle moved forward further on leafs, steering box pushed slightly further forward for high steer clearance between the tie rod and drag link when moving axle, clocking engine over 20 degrees to the passenger side (North America right side as seated), clocking the turbo up top to facilitate the engine clocking over, clearancing the firewall back in two areas on the passenger side 1 inch and 2 inches respectively to be able to push the engine back further and clear the coolant flange and ALH vacuum pump, which also requires modifying the heater core in/out tubing...


I edited my post and added some pump timing tuning tips which I have gathered from several sources and made into one reference guide on the previous page, FYI.

[Buji88]

I didn't actually, and a lot of the reasons you have stated are the reasons why I decided to stay with the AAZ. My adapter already tilts the engine to the passenger side so not as big of a concern and I'm a welder/fabricator by trade so it's not that big of a deal. However, a buddy of mine is going in a different direction on his build and I have a chance to pick up a BRM of unknown mileage or running condition for a song. And Im back to thinking a M-TDI BRM/ALH might be on the table again. Can't seem to find anybody who has done it though.

[Chuck1978]

As long as the BRM pistons are compatible with the valves and injection on the ALH head, you should be completely good to go, same as a BHW bottom end swap if going mTDI, no worry about the crank position sensor ring, but you will likely need to fit the ALH front seal carrier and drill &tap for a missing timing belt idler roller.
The bhw seal carrier has the correct dowel locations and one or two correct bolt holes but you need to drill and tap to other bolt holes for it. The BRM and BEW may not require this, but that is definitely not certain.

[Buji88]

Yes, in the research I've done it seems like the front carrier is the biggest hurdle. He has another deal pending with that engine so it is up in the air right now. Likely, Im going to push forward with my 1.9 AAZ since it is great shape, just need some more power and I will be good to go, but I still plan on doing an M-TDI at some point, just right now. It seems like it would be a great combination though.

[JFKO]

i just wanted to add some pumps to the list of parts numbers worth searching for. most off them are euro cars though

0 460 424 138 vw LT 2.8 12mm
0 460 414 156 peugeot 2.5 tdi 11mm
0 460 424 164 Fiat Ducato 2.8 tdi 12mm
0 460 414 128 Fiat Ducato 2.5 tdi 11mm
0 460 414 193 Kia Carnival 2.9 tdi 11mm
0 460 414 191 Kia Carnival 2.9 tdi 11mm the one im curently using
0 460 414 099 Land Rover 300 tdi 11mm
0 460 414 098 Land Rover 200 tdi 11mm
0 460 414 054 Iveco Daily 2.5 DI 11mm

GL with the hunt

I think I had seen your youtube chanel, but how many HP your pump 2.9tdi gives you ?

I have never had it on a dyno but at stock settings it's a lot faster than a afn mk3

[JFKO]

so i was bored the other day. and decided to update my previous list a bit. note i have still only actually used kia pumps on the mtdi engines i have made.
Update mostly a bunch of Sofim engine pumps that are new, and some corrections. With the Sofim engines i have just written the engine that they came on and the engine name

Kia Carnival 2.9 d/td/tdi 0 460 414 193, 0 460 414 191, 0 460 414 178, 0 460 414 207, still the one im using and is currently running in a mk2 Golf and 2 T3/T25/Vanagon campers. If i remember right the only mod i had to do was make the mounting hole bigger. and re drill some holes in the rear pump mount i used the tdi one. and i use the tdi pulley because the Kia one sticks out to far. and on two of the pumps there was also what i think is an immobilizer that i had to remove. and i have used 1.6td mounts for the throttle cable i just had to grind a notch off. mostly because i knew that the length of the cable would fit on my Golf

Iveco Fiat Peugeot Citroen Renault 8140.21/8144.21 2.5 TD? 0 460 414 026, 0 460 414 038, 0 460 414 060, 0 460 414 008,

Iveco Fiat Peugeot Citroen Renault 8140.23/43 2,8 TD/TDI 0 460 424 124, 0 460 424 125, 0 460 424 137, 0 460 424 136, 0 460 424 139, 0 460 424 141, 0 460 424 142, 0 460 424 148, 0 460 424 152, 0 460 424 157, 0 460 424 164, 

Iveco Fiat Peugeot Citroen Renault 8140.27 2.5 TD 0 460 414 081, 0 460 414 054, these engines are according to wikipedia also direct injection

Iveco Fiat Peugeot Citroen Renault 8140.47 2.5 TDI 0 460 414 164, 0 460 414 105, 0 460 414 128, 0 460 414 116, 0 460 414 121, 0 460 414 116, 0 460 414 120, 0 460 414 128, 0 460 414 129,

[JFKO]

btw it's maybe 10 years ago i was enjoying the lovely smells of my local scrap yard and i sniffed my way to something that i have never seen since. a mk3 1.9D with a Lucas pump on it. and it had a pump mount with the 68mm hole in it. so if any of you has issues with centering the hole, see if you can find one of those mounts. works fine for me

[a2lute]

So this is a long shot, does anyone have the pictures user "HEY" originally posted? I think I have figured out his lever mod but I would love to see the actual diagram he drew.

-A.Lute

[Chuck1978]

btw it's maybe 10 years ago... something that I have never seen since. a mk3 1.9D with a Lucas pump on it. and it had a pump mount with the 68mm hole in it. so if any of you has issues with centering the hole, see if you can find one of those mounts. works fine for me

I have heard of those, but I have never seen one and I doubt that they would be found in the USA whatsoever, however perhaps in Canada.

So this is a long shot, does anyone have the pictures user "HEY" originally posted? I think I have figured out his lever mod but I would love to see the actual diagram he drew.

I dd save a lot of info off of this thread, but did not save anything regarding using an IDI 17mm shaft pump as a base to build a mechanical TDI pump, as I feel the 20mm shaft is critical for reliability if you are seeking more performance output, and there are several pumps such as the Land Rover 300 TDI which are still commonly available and will run pretty well completely stock on a Volkswagen mTDI.

Using a VW 9mm IDI pump to convert to TDI, or using a Cummins 4BT 12mm pump to convert to TDI, are both quite a lot of work. The 4BT pump will work better than the IDI, however.

A well built IDI pump converted to TDI use will be able to run fairly decent, but the most you could expect to get is not much above stock 90hp TDI performance.
So you are basically running an AAZ 1.9TD, but without the pre-chamber cups to worry about, and better cold starting.

[JFKO]

yeah as i said i just noticed something was different on that one. i can't even find the parts number for the bracket and i ofc. forgot to write it down when i was at my storage. but i will try and remember to do it the next time

[Marzocchi]

Hi all,
I'm running a Land Rover 300TDI Pump that I did a governor mod on.
The pump now does exactly what it is supposed to do: it releases a lot of diesel even at high revs.
For the emissions test in germany, however, the pump has to shut off at a certain rpm range. i think between 4500 and 5000 rpm.
Is there any way i can adjust this with the external settings on the pump without having to undo the governor mod? now the engine revs above 6000 rpm.
Thank you!

[a2lute]

So this is a long shot, does anyone have the pictures user "HEY" originally posted? I think I have figured out his lever mod but I would love to see the actual diagram he drew.

I dd save a lot of info off of this thread, but did not save anything regarding using an IDI 17mm shaft pump as a base to build a mechanical TDI pump, as I feel the 20mm shaft is critical for reliability if you are seeking more performance output, and there are several pumps such as the Land Rover 300 TDI which are still commonly available and will run pretty well completely stock on a Volkswagen mTDI.

Using a VW 9mm IDI pump to convert to TDI, or using a Cummins 4BT 12mm pump to convert to TDI, are both quite a lot of work. The 4BT pump will work better than the IDI, however.

A well built IDI pump converted to TDI use will be able to run fairly decent, but the most you could expect to get is not much above stock 90hp TDI performance.
So you are basically running an AAZ 1.9TD, but without the pre-chamber cups to worry about, and better cold starting.

Thanks Chuck, I'm not aiming for extreme performance, just 130-150hp. I am using an ALH core along with an AAZ core to build my mTDI. I suppose I should start a new thread instead of cluttering up the FAQ. I'll get some pictures and post them up in a bit.

[libbydiesel]

The AAZ is not a good base pump to use.  There is very little about it worth keeping.  The mainshaft is small, the boost enrichment is terrible, the timing advance curve is wrong, the control collar lever assembly is bad and the accelerator lever assembly is bad.  IMO not a pump worth starting with.

[JFKO]

btw it's maybe 10 years ago i was enjoying the lovely smells of my local scrap yard and i sniffed my way to something that i have never seen since. a mk3 1.9D with a Lucas pump on it. and it had a pump mount with the 68mm hole in it. so if any of you has issues with centering the hole, see if you can find one of those mounts. works fine for me

So i got the number 028130147j seems like they were also used on 1.9d T4's