Author Topic: Pulled the head today (Read 8504 times)

hipifreq · « **on:** December 24, 2006, 06:58:39 pm »

The 1.5L in my Dasher had a cracked head gasket that was spitting fire out the number 1 cylinder, so I pulled the head off today. Here's some of the things I've noticed, questions that I'd like to throw out there.

Had a hell of a time pulling one of the head bolts. Some of the bolts were oily, and three were dry. Any reason for the difference or is that normal?

In the space between 3 of valves it looks like there's a tiny crack in the head. Serious problem?

The intake manifold had a small pool of oil inside it under the PCV. I've noticed this before when changing the air filter, but hadn't thought much of it before. Problem?

Valves look good. Plenty of carbon, but they don't have any lateral play when fully open.

I'm thinking of just putting the head back on for now, as I need the car back on the road soon. I'd like to get another engine to replace this one, but that's not for a few months yet. I don't have the tools to pull the valves or replace the camshaft oil seal, so unless I can make/get those fairly inexpensively I'm not pulling the valves.

rabbitman · « **Reply #1 on:** December 25, 2006, 01:14:03 am »

I wouldn't worry about the cracks in the head, my bentley manual says if the crack is wider than .02in to replace the head. I don't know why some bolts are oily and some aren't, I have noticed that though. I think the oil in the intake is from blowby, do you have a oil baffle on the cam? If you don't it might help to get one.

burn_your_money · « **Reply #2 on:** December 25, 2006, 12:27:57 pm »

I've had a few engines where some bolts were oily and some were rusty, not sure what causes it.

The cracks are completely normal and as long as they don't enter into the coolant passageways you have nothing to worry about.

If you don't have the cam shield/oil baffle etc on the cam defiantly get one. They are found on all hydrolic lifter heads on vws and gas a diesel ones are the same. No mounting hardware is needed, it sits on top of the cam bolts.

For the cam seal all you need is a 30mm socket (the same one that is needed to remove the axles) Use the socket as a punch. Careful not to knick the metal around the seal though.

jtanguay · « **Reply #3 on:** December 25, 2006, 04:14:38 pm »

if the bolt has no oil on it, its probably because it is a hot area of the head where the oil evaporates.

hipifreq · « **Reply #4 on:** December 26, 2006, 04:26:13 pm »

Thanks for the input guys! One of the best Christmas presents one can get is the wisdom of the elders.

Well, since the cracks are pretty small, and I can't find any others visible, I think I'll go to the next step. I'm going to rent a valve spring depresser and pull the valves, then bring the head to a local machine shop to have it shaved just a hair. The head bolts aren't 12-point, they're standard 10 mm hex. Can they be reused? Is it just better to get the 12-point stretch bolts?

#1 cylinder had the crack in the gasket. The little globules seem to be uncombusted biodiesel bits. This is the only cylinder with them.

#2 Cylinder showing the little crack between the valves.

burn_your_money · « **Reply #5 on:** December 26, 2006, 07:31:47 pm »

I don't think you can just upgrade to the 12mm, I think you have to stay with the 10s. I also think that the 10s are reusable but defiantly waif for someone to confirm that. I get that white buildup on my heads and pistons once they have been sitting for a while. I don't run biodiesel so I don't think that's what it is.

That crack looks very, very minor

hipifreq · « **Reply #6 on:** December 26, 2006, 08:42:02 pm »

Huh, I picked one of the little, white globules up and it slowly melted in my fingers with a scent of biodiesel, so I thought it must be unburned fuel. I wonder if it IS unburned fuel. Not straight fuel, but some biproduct of combustion.

I'm glad to get feedback on the cracks. They REALLY had me worried that I wouldn't be able to reuse the head! This is the first time I've pulled a head, and I don't have someone looking over my shoulder, so everything's VERY new.

rabbitman · « **Reply #7 on:** December 26, 2006, 11:55:27 pm »

I'm pretty sure your stuck with that style of bolt and I'm almost sure they're reusable, I'm not sure of the torque procedure. My bentley manual is at the shop so I'm going by memory so I'll confirm tomorrow.

burn_your_money · « **Reply #8 on:** December 27, 2006, 04:14:52 am »

Make sure you bring it to a shop that knows German diesels, you don't want to have your head screwed up by an inexperienced shop

saurkraut · « **Reply #9 on:** December 27, 2006, 10:16:18 am »

You may want to concider using Raceware's head studs for the 1.5 TD. The stock strech bolts have a very short thread engagement in the block, even shorter than the 1.6 bolts.

Excuse the plug: http://www.raceware-fasteners.com/photo.htm

I am in no way associated, employed, or hold any interest in Raceware. I just use there stuff in my diesels.

hipifreq · « **Reply #10 on:** December 27, 2006, 11:42:36 am »

I've got the Bentley for torquing procedures, but it doesn't say that the bolts aren't reusable. As all the other non-reusable stuff in the book says it must be replaced, I assume these are good to go. I'll certainly clean them up first and apply anti-sieze compound.

There's a good automotive shop in town that the local VW shop brings their stuff too. I'll call to be sure they know diesels well enough.

There was already a 4-notch gasket on there. Will shaving the head require a change in head gasket size? I'll be getting a dial indicator this afternoon, and will check the piston extension for gasket size, but how will changes in the head effect my choice of gasket?

jtanguay · « **Reply #11 on:** December 27, 2006, 11:21:33 pm »

did vw ever make a diesel motor with non stretch bolts??? i didn't think they did... can't wait to install my head studs though

burn_your_money · « **Reply #12 on:** December 27, 2006, 11:29:50 pm »

I don't think shaving the head will effect the HG thickness

rabbitman · « **Reply #13 on:** December 28, 2006, 11:53:31 pm »

Just install a thinner HG instead of shaving the head. You might wanna measure how far the pistons protrude above the block. I believe the thicker HG is to accommodate higher pistons, though I don't know if the pistons can hit the head with a thin gasket or not. My uncle has a vw shop and he told me they sometimes put a thinner HG on old tired diesels to bump the compression up. I think the 1.5 diesel had non-stretch bolts but I'm not sure. :?

hipifreq · « **Reply #14 on:** December 29, 2006, 02:12:24 pm »

Well, I just got the head back from the machine shop. Looks beautifull with the shaved head. They took 0.004" off 0.001" at a time, and cost me $45US. Tiny little shop, but they had the setup to do the diesel head. I'm going to start putting it all together today, and will post more pics as I go.