Author Topic: need help fast, VERY rough idleing (Read 8280 times)

rabbitman · « **Reply #15 on:** December 16, 2006, 07:55:58 pm »

I had air leak that let the car idle perfect but I could hardly get up to cruise speed and it would lose power and slow to a stop. I bled it over and over but it didn't fix it. Then I took the little cover opposite the cold start lever off and cranked it, put the cover back on, bled it and drove about 4000mi before it did it again. weird uh.

jtanguay · « **Reply #16 on:** December 16, 2006, 08:48:19 pm »

Quote

I had air leak that let the car idle perfect but I could hardly get up to cruise speed and it would lose power and slow to a stop. I bled it over and over but it didn't fix it. Then I took the little cover opposite the cold start lever off and cranked it, put the cover back on, bled it and drove about 4000mi before it did it again. weird uh.

sounds to me like a seal in the IP is going... that can start to suck air... your best bet is to get a seal kit and re-do your pump. its this new ultra low sulphur diesel crap...

my IP was leaking pretty bad before i replaced it. never had signs that it was sucking in air though... strange, but glad it never did!

rabbitman · « **Reply #17 on:** December 17, 2006, 12:46:09 am »

I do have some IP leaks. Where is a good place to get a seal kit that can take biodiesel? Is it easier to change the seals with the pump off of the car. I'm not a IP tech so I don't wanna take it apart very far. I don't have any timing tools either I just check the cam/crank and line up the marks for the IP and then time the pump just advanced enough that it runs good, to late and it misses. The more I mess with it the more chance there is that I'll mess something up. I wouldn't mind using a dial indicator and seeing how far off it is, runs good though.

jtanguay · « **Reply #18 on:** December 17, 2006, 08:48:44 pm »

Quote from: rabbitman

I do have some IP leaks. Where is a good place to get a seal kit that can take biodiesel? Is it easier to change the seals with the pump off of the car. I'm not a IP tech so I don't wanna take it apart very far. I don't have any timing tools either I just check the cam/crank and line up the marks for the IP and then time the pump just advanced enough that it runs good, to late and it misses. The more I mess with it the more chance there is that I'll mess something up. I wouldn't mind using a dial indicator and seeing how far off it is, runs good though.

i know a guy that can time a diesel without the dial indicator... with really good accuracy. i think the dial indicator just makes it faster really. and allows you to achieve a very precise timing setting.

smog over in the vendors section sells some seal kits. you said you had shaft play in your pump though correct? i think this will need a little more than just a seal kit

i think the only seal that can be replaced while the pump is on the car, is the pump head gasket seal. to open the pump you might need a few special tools... never done it myself, but i have a spare pump i will mess around with