Author Topic: Make your 1.9TD a faster car  (Read 148707 times)

October 27, 2004, 05:10:54 am

VWRacer

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Make your 1.9TD a faster car
« on: October 27, 2004, 05:10:54 am »
[Note: Some time ago I saved this page off the VWQuebec Forum. The link now appears dead, but it is such a great DIY article I thought I'd cross-post it here. If you want to keep this info I suggest you save the page to your hard drive, just in case someone gets upset that it is here and asks that it be taken down. Anyway, I stripped out all the VWQuebec forum stuff and am posting just the pics and unedited text. If you have questions I suggest you open another thread. That way the experts can answer them and we don't lose the info if this thread has to come down. Stan]

Preparation of the engine before increasing the fueling.



1. It is necessary to unscrew the screws #1 and #2 and to withdraw the limit-switch. (you probably have a cover over), You can use tie-rap and fix the switch elsewhere (but it must remain open)

This modification makes it possible turbo to function full-time instead of compressing only when you ask for all the power.

2. Now, to disconnect the connector #4 and to find a means of connecting the selenoid which is below of this connector #4 on the same wire as the connector #3 (fuel cut-off selenoid). You can let the connector #4 hang, it is now useless.

This modification prevents the pump from "delaying" the timing to reduce the Nox (polution) It is necessary that this selenoid(#4) is activated (12v) with each time the engine is ignited to keep the advanced timing even with low RPM.

These 2 modifications will help the softer, more powerful engine to be (a little) and especially more economic.

ATTENTION I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE IF YOU BREAK YOUR PUMP Because OF BAD HANDLING. with your risk and dangers...

ADJUSTMENT OF THE FUELING



1. Take in note the rpm in Idle of your car when the engine is hot.

2. It is necessary to withdraw (tear off) the plastic cap which surrounds the screw #5 (max fueling adjuster). Under this plastic cap a 2e protection is; a metal ring... You can use a flat screwdriver to break this ring (a dremel can also do the work). (it is the only screw of the pump which has these protections)

3. Using a key 13mm, give off the lock-nut of the screw #5 and turn the screw #5 until the rpm is of 300rpm moreover than your regular Idle. Tighten the lock-nut.

4. Readjust your Idle with its value of origin with the screw #7 (service idle adjuster) for those which do not have the conditioned air and the #8 (idle adjuster) for the lucky ones which have it.

IF Idle do not want to go down again or that when you release the pedal on the motorway and that the car does not seem "to compress" correctly, it is possible that you have to unscrew the screw #6 a little (residual fuel quantity adjuster).

If it is not fast yet enough for you, begin again at stage 3 while turning the screw #5 (max fueling adjuster) of a half turn at the same time.

Note that too much smoke = too much fuel = too high temperatures of combustion = not good...

If all were carried out correctly, your vehicle should be very close to 90hp and 140lbs of torque. (as fast as the TDI)

Next article: Let us add PSI...

INCREASE IN THE PRESSURE OF TURBO BY A READJUSTMENT OF THE WASTEGATE.

1. Initially and above all, you find turbo-gauge or a gauge industrial 0-30PSI (low-cost: gauge for the swimming pool filters: 5$)

http://store.cip1.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=cali&Category_Code=20



2. Install it with "T" on the tube which will connect on the lid of your pump (see the blue tube close of the #5 on the photo preceding one). For the remainder, follow the instructions of the manufacturer of your turbo-gauge.

3. It is necessary to preserve in note the maximum pressure that the turbo product before the readjustments. Coming from the factory, the 1.9td give between 8 and 12 PSI; more often, VW adjusted with 8PSI but specifies that between 8 and 12 it is OK.

4. Locate the lever of the wastegate (see photo) IF your turbo is not equipped with this type of wastegate with external adjustment, you will have to readjust it in another way who is called "Boost Bleed" as specified on this page: http://www.xmission.com/~dempsey/perform/bleed1.htm.



5. For those which have the wastegate with external adjustment, firstly it is necessary to withdraw the clip of protection which covers the 2 locknuts, then you must unscrew a little the locknut which is on the end of the stem to release the lever of the wastegate. Now, the readjustment is done as follows: the more the lever is towards the end of the threaded rod, the more the PSI will increase. I recommend to you to increase by small stages and to make test-drive. Be certain to tighten the 2 well locknuts before starting the car if not, bye bye gasket of head because the wastegate will not open and the turbo one can give 25psi easily.

ATTENTION, in top of 15 psi, the wastegate has more misery to do its work and can let assemble the boost a little higher than than you want, when you request more 14psi from turbo, keep an eye on the gauge and attention not not to exceed 15psi too much. (mine sees 20psi regularly and I did not break yet my gasket of head (230000km))

Then I wish you Good tuning!

(next stage, hybrid pump 1.9td/1.6td)

WITH ALL THOSE WHICH REQUIRED OF ME HOW THE CONSUMPTION OF THE AFFECTED CAR EAST: 1002.5km with 53.95L (5.4L/100km) mixed way motorway (110km/h) and city (15% city)

I ever made a success of that before when the car was stock.

OPTIMIZATION OF THE PUMP FOR A CURVE OF FUELING PROPORTIONAL TO THE PRESSURE OF TURBO

1. Find an old pump of 1.6 TURBO-DIESEL (Jetta/passat 1983-1992)

2. Locate the lid of the injection pump of 1.6td. (close to the #1 and #2 of the first photograph of this C-it-yourself). ( the 1.6 have a large screw in the center whereas the 1.9 does not have any)

3. Maintanant, to unscrew 4 screws TORX which retains this lid.

4. Under this lid, you will find a rubber membrane with a stem of fixed above as well as a spring. KEEP the stem and the diafragme and close again the remainder of the pump of 1.6td.



5. Observe the stem of the 1.6td, the end of the stem is in the shape of reversed cone which was engraved eccentric compared to the center of the stem. The reversed cone makes it possible the pump to react to the boost and decentring enables YOU to adjust the curve of fueling (the adjustment is done while turning of a few degrees the assembly membrane and stem towards the left or the right-hand side compared to the pump)

6. Locate the lid of the injection pump of your 1.9td. (close to the #1 and #2 of the first photograph of this C-it-yourself).

7. It is necessary to unscrew 4 screws TORX which retains this lid.

8. Under this lid, you will find a rubber membrane with a stem of fixed above as well as a spring. REPLACE the stem and the diafragme of your 1.9td by those of the 1.6td. I advise you to place the stem of 1.6td with the cone decentred towards the momentary side of your car; in this way, you will begin your adjustments with the least aggressive profile (and less soot)

9. Close again your pump of 1.9td.

NOTE that it is possible that you must readjust the screw #5 (max fueling screw, second image of the DIY) to hold the soot on the reasonable side.

The adjustment is done while turning the assembly diafragme and stem and while testing on the road. The ideal it is not to have of smoke with bottom rpm and to have passed the 3/4 of the pedal of them. In normal control, I use only the 3/4 of the travel of the pedal (I swear you that it is VERY sufficient); the last quarter (and bottom) are not useful only when I require really for a surplus of power and that I do not worry any more to increase the layer of SMOG to the top of Montreal....


Please, NOT TO ADD COMMENTS At EC THREAD.
If you have questions, additions or precise details, forwarded me them by e-mail, if it is relevant, I will add it to this DIY.

Next stage: INTERCOOLER (for small a 1000km by fuel 50L in normal control (850km in aggressive control)

This part will not be really C-it-yourself but rather a photograph of my tubing of intercooler to guide you in your projects.

The tubes are actually pipes of radiator which I bought at Canadian-Tire, 3 tubes in "L" of the diamętre of my entries of intercooler and a pipe which is diameter of the exit of turbo. Some supports of stainless later and here is work.

Note that I have to move back the radiator of 2 inches to make place with the intercooler of Mazda 626.







good luck in your projects.

[fspGTD edit: title renamed from "Smog's Make your 1.9lTD a faster car DIY Thread ["]

*Edit - Everyone can thank Otis2 for finding all the old pictures and putting them back in the thread
« Last Edit: September 02, 2009, 10:32:49 pm by burn_your_money »


Stan
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Reply #1October 28, 2004, 07:40:09 pm

Blades

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Make your 1.9TD a faster car
« Reply #1 on: October 28, 2004, 07:40:09 pm »
Do you also have the french version ?

Reply #2October 28, 2004, 08:18:16 pm

VWRacer

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Make your 1.9TD a faster car
« Reply #2 on: October 28, 2004, 08:18:16 pm »
Oui mon ami! Regardez dans le forum de moteurs d'IDI.  :D
Stan
C-Sports Racer

Reply #3June 25, 2005, 08:51:05 am

TD_vento

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Make your 1.9TD a faster car
« Reply #3 on: June 25, 2005, 08:51:05 am »
I see that these picture are not for the 1.9 version as the pump looks different and also some of the screws.

I was looking at my wastegate and i can see that there is no lever but there is a screw on the wastegate, has this got the same function as the lever, by adjusting it you can adjust boost.  Installed a boost gauge today and its showing around 10psi which made me feel good as i thought the turbo wasnt working well.

Im looking to increase the fueling,boost and also install a spare intercooler i have laying here.  Im not usre if the screws on both 1.9 and 1.6 are the same.

Reply #4February 18, 2006, 12:30:10 am

ricosuave

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« Reply #4 on: February 18, 2006, 12:30:10 am »
i'm a calgarian who will be trying this when the weather gets better.

i've got the intercooler, the 1.6 boost pin, the boost guage, and know of 2 people in town who can walk me through it if need be...

for those who have already done this, can you give details as to how it changes the performance and fuel economy?

thanks,
rico
Now: 00 2dr Golf TDI, 03 Jetta Wagon TDI, 02 2500HD Duramax - :)
Then: 69 SC Transporter, 84 Rabbit GTI, 87 Fox GL, 91 Golf IDI, 96 Passat Wagon TDI, 97 Jetta IDI - :(
"Everything I save by driving diesel I put back due to poor German engineering and crappy Mexican workmanship!"   :P

Reply #5February 18, 2006, 08:49:29 am

Smog

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« Reply #5 on: February 18, 2006, 08:49:29 am »
Quote from: "ricosuave"
i'm a calgarian who will be trying this when the weather gets better.

i've got the intercooler, the 1.6 boost pin, the boost guage, and know of 2 people in town who can walk me through it if need be...

for those who have already done this, can you give details as to how it changes the performance and fuel economy?

thanks,
rico


around 20% more power, same fuel efficiency (when used in the same condition than before)
www.VEG-Injection-Service.com

1.6GTD nozzles (RA/SB )
1.9TD nozzles (AAZ )
0.205mm or 0.216mm TDI nozzles
TDI injection pump seal kit  
IDI Pump shaft seal

Reply #6March 13, 2006, 10:58:11 pm

zagarus

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« Reply #6 on: March 13, 2006, 10:58:11 pm »
this will work with a 1.6TD too right?
Project 1.9TD Jetta Coupe Completed. Back in action!

Reply #7March 14, 2006, 01:31:56 am

malone

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Make your 1.9TD a faster car
« Reply #7 on: March 14, 2006, 01:31:56 am »
Quote from: "zagarus"
this will work with a 1.6TD too right?


The part "ADJUSTMENT OF THE FUELING" in the guide applies 100% to 1.6TDs too.

The boost gauge and intercooler also applies to 1.6TDs. The turbo wastegate adjustment does not apply to all 1.6TDs though, it depends on what type of turbo you have. Also don't worry about the 1.6TD boost pin, you likely already have that good stuff (if it's a true turbo diesel with a turbo diesel pump).
http://www.malonetuning.com
1993 Eurovan 1.9L AHU TDI
1996 Golf 1.9L ASV TDI - sold and missed
1997 Golf Variant Syncro 1.9L 1Z TDI - sold and missed
2011 Golf 2.0L CJAA TDI DSG
2014 Golf Wagon 2.0L CJAA TDI DSG
2 x BMW 335d 3.0L 2xTurbo

Reply #8April 05, 2006, 07:35:30 pm

BellCityDubber

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« Reply #8 on: April 05, 2006, 07:35:30 pm »
Quote from: "malone"
Quote from: "zagarus"
this will work with a 1.6TD too right?


The part "ADJUSTMENT OF THE FUELING" in the guide applies 100% to 1.6TDs too.

The boost gauge and intercooler also applies to 1.6TDs. The turbo wastegate adjustment does not apply to all 1.6TDs though, it depends on what type of turbo you have. Also don't worry about the 1.6TD boost pin, you likely already have that good stuff (if it's a true turbo diesel with a turbo diesel pump).


I know it's a stupid question, but here it goes...

Okay, so in the guide, I'm trying to make the direct translation as accurate as I can, so with this screw



do I use a 13mm deep socket and undo that before I can turn the screw??

And what do I do with that electrical connector, as I dont have one below as pictured in the top of the FAQ


And as for the switch on top of the pump, I dont have one, as pictured here



So do I just skip relocating that switch?

and for my final question, do I still have to take off the top of the pump (LDA) and turn the boost pin?

Thanks

Reply #9April 05, 2006, 08:57:19 pm

wyldman

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« Reply #9 on: April 05, 2006, 08:57:19 pm »
After you break off the anti-tamper collar,you can then loosen the 13mm nut slightly,and turn the fuel screw in.You will need to hold the 13mm nut while turning in the screw,so it doesn't tighten.After you get it adjusted,tighten the 13mm locknut.

Don't worry about the missing connector or switch,you pump doesn't use them

After you get the fuel screw adjusted,and the idle sorted out,then move onto the boost pin.
Auto Proformance Services - VW Diesel parts and service
(416)565-7282

Reply #10April 05, 2006, 09:20:39 pm

BellCityDubber

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« Reply #10 on: April 05, 2006, 09:20:39 pm »
Quote from: "wyldman"
After you break off the anti-tamper collar,you can then loosen the 13mm nut slightly,and turn the fuel screw in.You will need to hold the 13mm nut while turning in the screw,so it doesn't tighten.After you get it adjusted,tighten the 13mm locknut.

Don't worry about the missing connector or switch,you pump doesn't use them

After you get the fuel screw adjusted,and the idle sorted out,then move onto the boost pin.


Okay, so
1. I don't worry about the electronic connectors

2. the tamper proof collar is still on there? I dont know, I guess I can tell what it looks like now by the pic.

3. and so yes, I unscrew the top of the LDA and turn the boostpin?

UPDATE:

I tried to start the fueling mod, but I didnt get very far....

I got the tamperproof washer off, and I raised the idle 300 rpm or so, but when I went to go to  lower the idle using the service idle adjuster, it didnt do anything....

As the FAQ has been translated from french to english, I noticed something about Air conditioning, and another screw, so I tried what looked to be the other screw.  My car has air conditioning so I thought it would be worth a shot.

However, I still could not get my idle to set back down again. is there something I should be doing to the springs on the idle service adjuster?

on a side note, I broke the wire going to the upper of the 2 knife terminals, so that has also discouraged me... (I just put it back in with electrical tape for now.

would there be anyone in the southern ontario region who'd be able to teach me??

thanks

Reply #11May 01, 2006, 09:00:03 am

ssray

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Make your 1.9TD a faster car
« Reply #11 on: May 01, 2006, 09:00:03 am »
i cant find connector no4? i removed the switch and i have found connector no3, my car is a 1993 1.9td seat toledo(vw golf).
am i still ok to have removed the switch??
also can i just remove the air box and fit a cone type filter? ineed space for svo change over valves and heater.
Thanks  Ray

Reply #12August 01, 2006, 01:41:40 pm

Benjamin

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« Reply #12 on: August 01, 2006, 01:41:40 pm »
@admin: I didnt find a real answer in the search, so i thought the FAQ would be a good place, if this is not the right place for my question, please replace it.

how high may the EGT's come?
i reading somewhere its about 600-700°C stock 1100-1300F
but on a other forum i read the best efficeince is around 950-1050°C, 1750-1920F  :shock:

how much degrees can a turbodiesel handle?
how high are youre EGT's?
What is good for a car who need to make more than just 5000km.

Greetz, Benjamin

anwer:
i think this is stock: +-1250max
, never come to long over 1500F or you will become a engine failure.
SMOG alert, engine running again!
Must make +250hp

Reply #13February 11, 2007, 04:51:42 pm

RabbitJockey

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Make your 1.9TD a faster car
« Reply #13 on: February 11, 2007, 04:51:42 pm »
Quote from: typeR
i have one big problem:/ my english is so bad... somebody can translate for me it:D im from poland:P europen golf's are diferent... and i have golf from canada... help me please:) i wanna do somethink with this so slow car but i don't know how to do it... i understand only picture's;) sorry when u don't know what i wrote here:P


try the 1.6 tuning see if those pictures up. i took those pictures to help understanding the adjustments easier
98 Pontiac Grand Prix GT:stock daily
 81 Jetta: in progress 1.6td, ported head, holset turbo.
81 Rabbit:AAZ, hybrid T3 turbo, Giles pump, lightened fw, and yellow clutchnet clutch.

Reply #14January 01, 2008, 10:01:24 pm

dieselabstimmen

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« Reply #14 on: January 01, 2008, 10:01:24 pm »
Does any of this do any damage to the turbo or anything else?  Like when you remove the boost limiter switch?
Mike Y.
Newbie Diesel Tuner
"Horsepower Sells Cars, But Torque Wins Races."