Why Go Synthetic?

[burn_your_money]

Auto RX
Once I buy a car I plan on keeping at least a few years I'm going to use this
http://www.auto-rx.com/index.html

[jtanguay]

Auto RX
Once I buy a car I plan on keeping at least a few years I'm going to use this
http://www.auto-rx.com/index.html

no way man

http://www.fs2500.com/fs2500_video.htm

that blows away everything.

[burn_your_money]

why not both?

[monst]

Geez you guys have been busy here...
Yeah, sorry on the location.... Itis
EST not Pst.. my typo........US......
Just got this PUP. well, it is almost
year..... Just driving it now all over
creation.... Yeah, on the topic of
oil... I reading a link off the Wikopedia
link I mentioned...
the link was something like..
"all you wanted to know about oil but"
something like that....
he was saying that Synths don't need
oil stablilizers to maintain viscosity....
but,  when the index??? I think that
is the term(ie: 0w 40).... when the
index spreads out far(ie: 0w 40)
then stabilizers must be used in the
synth.... And when oil breaks down
it is the stabilizers that "ship the bed"
   So what viscosity would you suggest
for southern newengland area... the
most southern.... conn......
And The Bosch filters are the way to go....
And what is this SaurKraut wassayin bout...
AMSoil...... "SHAKE FIRST" :?:   I usually
shake after I flush!...... Does amsoil really
want a little shake?

Monst

[jtanguay]

just go with synthetic.   Synthetic uses special detergents and additives to give it a high TBN number (total base number)

What is a TBN number have to do with oil you say?  Well acid is bad for your motor right?  Water and contaminants in your oil makes some nice acid with all the heat, and so the high TBN number combats this effect to give you extended drain intervals.

I still cant stop thinking about that bypass filter though... its simply amazing!  mix that with synthetic motor oil and voila!  

the main reason for changing synthetic motor oil is because it gets contaminated with large amounts of soot relatively quickly.  Remove the soot/water, and you can easily double.. triple.. quadruple your drain intervals (some guys are going 60'000kms on big rigs)

[monst]

Yeah, I read something about AMSOIL running
in some rigs for 409,000....
IS AMS Ok oil?
WHat is the verdit....
just spell it out......
I am figuring I'll get some bosch filters...
but what about the ERL??

[macsdub]

yea maybe 409000 with an fs2500 filter

[monst]

Yeah pulling out the soot......

[jtanguay]

we need to find an easy way to mount this thing... then I'll go ahead and buy it (that guy on ebay said hes got 200)

i dunno about mounting it the same way as an oil cooler though.   it is supposed to reduce the flow of oil quite substancially... so it cannot impede the flow of oil through the main oil filter.  I'm wondering about splicing into an oil pressure sender port or something...  don't think thats a good idea, but I'm still thinking!

[monst]

wELL, IF TODAY  wasn't a totally unproductive
day.... AT LEAST I GOT THE OIL CHANGED...
I managed to get the Mobil Delvac.......
went with 5w 40.. and a Bosch filter......
 got to get the air out of the fuel system...
I ran it out of a bucket without the filter...
If I revved  way up almost max rpm...
there were minuscule(very tiny) air bubbles....
I think I am gonna change the inj return lines.

[jtanguay]

i wouldn't worry about small bubbles... its the big ones that are bad.  I havent seen a vw diesel engine without small bubbles in it yet

[VentoTD]

Why you guys jumpy about the cold visc numbers being low? Its the warm visc number i want high. 5w50 sounds nice to me, good cold start lubrication and stable warm (not thin)

[1.9blues]

just like to add my 2 cents.... i am not an expert....just pass on what i know and learn.

syn. oil are man made, while fossil oil is from the ground. Amsoil does make 5w30 that meets VW503 http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/asl.aspx etc... oil that does not meet API "C" rating does not belong in a diesel due to the high carbon content (as stated before). most  people don't know why... any oil will provide good protection until it gets dirty, most people don't know that water is also an extremely good lube also. WHY???
because due to "hydro-dynamic suspension" of metal parts... meaning the lubricant will separate the metals and the metals should not be touching each other. it is the particles in the oil that acts like sand paper. some people will say "that's Bull sh#$"... then, may be they should try to compress fluid !! fluid is not compressable...only with 2000 psi or more can fluid be compressed one hair line!! (etc..hydraulic jacks, bulldozers and other heavy duty equipment operates on this principle) since your engine does not generate close to 2,000 psi anyways, u don't have to worry about metal to metal...
      your engine works with pressure, metal to metal happens when there is not enough pressure to maintain hydro suspension of the 2 metals. so...guys that are running filters with no bypass...what if your filter is plugged, what is supplying oil to the engine??? bypass filters only bypass oil if it senses high pressure in the filter and the pressure will overcome the seals, thus bypassing to your engine, normally they don't bypass nothing!! "bypass" is for emergency - unless someone here can tell me that they can tell when their filter is plugged, then that's a different story. dirty oil is better than no oil !!!
some cheap oil will not have good seal conditioners...due to heat and soot... the seal conditioners will break down and your seals will harden, then u will get leaks and your oil pressure will go way down!!!!! now, u have some metal to metal !!!

Syn. oil is used in extreme cold climate...that's why if u read the product specs. u will see that syn cold viscousity rating is much less then fossil. in cold climate u have to get that oil to your turbo and the top of your engine... how long can your engine run without oil??? 15w40 will take a really long time to get to the top... that's why it is so hard to start your engine when the temp. drops below 0.

      i do work in the diesel truck business... VOLVO trucks pride themselves on having 2 filters and 1 bypass filters...they claim that their engines are the best for having that. other manufactures don't put the word bypass don't mean that they don't have it!!!! it's safety... it's crazy not to have it!!! that's a $40,000 engine...it's crazy !!!!

     now that these trucks comes with EGR all heavy duty oil will have to changed... i think Mobil1 will have their new oil in the market first. i service lots of Cummins ISX  (15L engine) they have lots of EGR valve problems (check engine lights) the industry is blaming the oil manufactures... plus the new emission law will require the manufacturers to reduce emission by 90%!!!!!!!!! therefore.... ultra low sulfur fuel, EGR, TWIN turbos, TRI-turbos and new oil will be introduced.

[1.9blues]

i would also like to add...

air is extremely compressible, oil have anti-foaming properties in them and it is stated in owner's manuals in all manufacturers that u should not over fill your oil... tranny, diffs etc... over filling will cause foaming. since air is extremely compressible, metal to metal contact is extremely high. serious damage will occur. air in diesel coolant will cause cavitation, also in tranny etc....

where i work... the oil is free, so i change it very 5,000km  :lol: all brand name oil is good... refer to owner's manual and it will say use the right oil for the right climate. i love 15w40 but in canada... during the winter period i use anything with 0w or 5w (shell, mobil1 or amsoil) because i don't plug the car in all the time. i don't feel any difference in performance with syn oil... in terms of protection, all the companies that i've worked for all used 15w40 all year long ( Volvo, Mack, Peterbilt, Kenworth, Freightshaker, internationals) even at -30 and below. these guys will put 600,000km on their trucks in 2.5 years. they never have problems with 15w40!!! none synthetic !!! the reason why i bought a VW is because a guy that i worked with used 15w40 in his jetta and only changed his oil 2 times in a year and he has over 700,000 km!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! in his car!!!!!!!  :shock: all original !!!

[jtanguay]

2 times a year oil change? synthetic??  if its not synthetic... i'd like to just point out the fact that condensation will get into your oil eventually, and start making it acidic.  with all the air these engines suck in, after a while the moisture will contaminate the oil (but the vent will let that evaporate if the car is driven on a regular basis)

i'm pro synthetic... I feel the difference, and the car performs quite well from cold start.  I'm running regular oil right now and its not too bad for the moment... just wait until its actually below 0

don't you ever notice that your engine tends to 'bog' near the 4000km mark???  with synthetic it doesn't...

if your friend is using shell rotella T  then I can see him reaching million miles WITH regular oil changes...