Sharing my 1.6td project

[as4k]

7zap has been pretty good in terms of part numbers. 

https://audi.7zap.com/en/usa/audi+4000/a40/1982-3/1/105-4000/

There is a specific bolt and washer for the CY engine listed and I have no clue if thats whats in the car now.  I doubt it.  There are a few specific pulley pieces based upon the engine code and if it has power steering (mine does).  Oddly enough there is a different water pump pulley listed (on a different diagram), which I believe I do have.

This thing is wild.  I'm thankful to have a vw diesel guy here that helps with that sort of stuff, but since this is such an odd car its been fun.

[RabbitJockey]

i do pretty much the same thing as fatmobile except i let it on the ground, and just push the car back or pull it forward to set the crank position.

on the tach, if you can find a the same cluster you have but with a tachometer for a gas engine then you can run a dakota digital converter.

[as4k]

I think with the engine being longitudinal helps me a bit.  Whenever I mess with timing on the 5cyl cars its very easy since the flywheel is easy to see while still moving the crank a bit from the front.  I always joke with my VW friends about how the older Audi engines are in the engine bay the "right" way

[ORCoaster]

on the tach, if you can find the same cluster you have but with a tachometer for a gas engine then you can run a Dakota digital converter.

But Why?  and that isn't stock, so I don't like to do that.  I prefer the long way around and convert the tach to use the alt wire which makes it difficult to do.  That is just me. 

[as4k]

Been a minute so I'll provide a small update.

We are now moved into our new house.  Both of my Audi's were actually the first things moved over, so that was nice.  The 4ktd was towed and I drove my other one.  We now have just a bit over 2 acres of land, a much larger attached garage, and room/plans to build a separate out building, so TONS of room for activities.
For the first time under my ownership and likely many years, the 4ktd sits outside, and doesnt look too shabby out there.  i hopped in the car last week after charging the battery in hopes to see if it would start and run.  A few cranks and a bit of help from the go pedal and it came to life.  I still have the odd surging idle, but it may just be the idle still needs adjusted up some.  Runs great though.
I made a few notes the last time the car ran.  Fuel leak from injector #4 where the rubber cap sits over the last port on top of the injector.  I cant tell if the actual nipple there is a bit tweaked or the cap just needs a small zip tie.  Either way I have another injector to toss in.  I need to tighten the turbo oil feed line a bit.  The clutch pedal wasnt returning all the way (but it is now), and the brake pedal is still hard.  So this means the vacuum pump may not have fixed the hard brake pedal issue.  I said screw it and ordered a new master and brake booster.  I hope to get this stuff replaced yet this month.  The only other oddity was that after letting the car run until the main cooling fan came on, I shut it down, then immediately tried to restart.  I got a very slow crank and no start.  I suspect the battery, which isnt 2 years old (but had a 2020 date on it) is toast.  I've done enough charging and jumping with it

I do owe you guys some updated photos and a video of it starting/running.  I also did acquire the correct crank bolt, so I'll take time to replace that.  I was really hoping to take this thing to Carlisle (which is this week) but moving sidelined ALL car related activities. 

[fatmobile]

Sounds like you have a nice setup.
 Check to see if the alternator is putting out.
Cuz it probably should have charged the battery enough while running.

[as4k]

Sounds like you have a nice setup.
 Check to see if the alternator is putting out.
Cuz it probably should have charged the battery enough while running.

And as usual I forget some useful information .  I'll check again for sure.  The volt meter inside the car showed like it had good voltage but I'll check it at the battery.  Alternator is fairly new, not that it matters. 

Yes, the more space is outstanding.  I was doing rear brakes on my other Audi a few days ago and was in the driveway.  I had so much space and nobody around to watch me!  Def enjoying this so far and cannot wait to get the garage all sorted so we can fit some cars in there

[ORCoaster]

Maybe just check the battery terminals and the ground to the frame.  If the Alt is putting out the right amount of power then maybe it just isn't getting in to be stored as it should. 

[as4k]

Maybe just check the battery terminals and the ground to the frame.  If the Alt is putting out the right amount of power then maybe it just isn't getting in to be stored as it should.

Ah, interesting thought.  So, where should the engine to body grounds be?  Honestly the only ground I can think of is the battery negative to the transmission bolt.  Since I got this car with pretty much nothing assembled I didnt even think about additional grounds. 

[RabbitJockey]

carlisle, are you near central pa?

[as4k]

carlisle, are you near central pa?

I am not but our club goes to the Import show in early May there every year, so I make the trek from Indiana out there.  Will be there with my other Audi later this week/weekend!  Its where the car in question first graced us with its presence

[fatmobile]

One way to check grounds is to crank on the starter for a while then feel the cable ends.
Bad cable connections get warm/hot.
 That ground to the trany is always suspect.
Running electricity through a bolt that goes into aluminum. Galvanic corrosion.

I like using the MK3 battery cables and running the engine ground right to the top starter mounting bolt.