Sharing my 1.6td project

[as4k]

Thanks guys!  The tiny tach is something I had never heard of and sounds pretty interesting.  This will be a good option if I cant figure out something with a factory Audi tach.  Will keep you all posted!

[RabbitJockey]

What size is the crank bolt? The older engines 11mm headbolt engines had a 17mm bolt, the newer 12mm head bike engines have a 19mm 12pt bolt, maybe you have totally the wrong bolt, or your pulley is for older engine?

[as4k]

What size is the crank bolt? The older engines 11mm headbolt engines had a 17mm bolt, the newer 12mm head bike engines have a 19mm 12pt bolt, maybe you have totally the wrong bolt, or your pulley is for older engine?

Well, I got this project with the engine in pieces, basically.  Looking back at photos from when I got it, the crank bolt was sinched on there so I assumed it was correct from when the bottom end was rebuilt.  I am def not one to assume though!  I have the PN for the correct crank bolt and washer.  The CY has some specific pulleys and it appears all of those on the engine now are correct.  I have had a few friends send photos of various engines with this code, so those have helped. 

I've never been an artist, but this car has been like painting without a brush, to put it lightly

[RabbitJockey]

i dont think there is a washer, only the older engines had that, perhaps you have an older crank in a cy block?

did you have the crank sprocket off? was it a woodruff key or the angular notch key? the 11mm engines had a woodruff key, newer engines had the angular notch, and then with the tdi they went a flat spot on the crank.

this should be the right crank bolt:

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/vw-screw-genuine-vw-n90577101

and this is what the cy crank sprocket should look like:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/166362673113?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=rIbV4gbGTBa&sssrc=2047675&ssuid=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

[as4k]

I'll ask Casey to see if there were any specifics that he remembers.  From what I know its a proper CY block but I figured that was an Audi only engine code?  EDIT - I did find out that the block came from a Jetta TD, so not an Audi like I originally thought.



If you zoom in you can see what was on there when I got the car.  Looks like a standard hex head bolt with a large washer. 

I use 7zap all too often for stuff.  This shows what options there are depending on code and such. 

https://audi.7zap.com/en/usa/audi+4000/a40/1982-3/1/105-4000/

Lots of good information here.  I appreciate everyone chiming in on this stuff because there could be things on the car that may be incorrect and I just dont know it.  I never did take the crank sprocket off to check if it was a woodruff key. 

[RabbitJockey]

i think cy could be in an audi or vw.

I am not 100% sure on the bolt, but from what i have seen 11mm headbolt engines had a 17mm 6pt crank bolt with washer, 12mm/81 and later engines had a 19mm which i believe is 12pt but maybe that is only the later engines like aaz/ahu.

maybe someone more experience can chime in. I dont think it's anything to be concerned with, the later crank sprockets are stronger/more reliable but i wouldn't be worried either way so long as everything is torqued to spec.

[as4k]

I think I was more concerned that if I needed to crank the engine by hand, I really couldnt from down there unless I took off the crank pulley sandwich.
Of course, this is just one of a handful of things I'll investigate and fix when the car is moved.

[fatmobile]

You should be able to get to the crank bolt with the pulleys on.

 That chain looks big enough to lift the engine, ha.

[as4k]

You should be able to get to the crank bolt with the pulleys on.

 That chain looks big enough to lift the engine, ha.

The photo I had didnt originally work so I'm reposting it.  LOL, yeah, the chain was a bit overkill but its what my friend had

[ORCoaster]

I think you need to replace that bolt with something that is longer and has a head on it that you can turn by hand with a wrench.  I have an 81 with a 17mm head on it. 

[as4k]

I think you need to replace that bolt with something that is longer and has a head on it that you can turn by hand with a wrench.  I have an 81 with a 17mm head on it.

Agreed.  I'll snag the correct bolt based on the parts catalog.  Just figured it was correct from when I acquired everything.
Appreciate the continued help here!!

[RabbitJockey]

i am curious what you'll get a replacement. I think the pulley is probably the problem, like it is intended for an older 17mm crank but this is a later engine, it is an 81 which was the cross over year for 11mm/12mm head bolts.

[fatmobile]

yeah man, what is going on with that pully?
 I've never seen a pully that covered the bolt like that.

[ORCoaster]

Maybe it is from an Audi and not a VW part at all.  Might look into that angle and see what comes up.  With all the tweaking I do on my VW I find it hard to work on it if I couldn't turn the crank manually.  I mean how do you even time that thing? 

Oh, by ear of course.  Sounds good let it go.  Hey in cold weather I have to crank on it so long my battery dies.  OH, that is good to hear.  Maybe measure the timing next time. 

Rant and Rant some more 

[fatmobile]

  I usually turn the crank, to set the timing,
by putting it in 5th and rolling it.
 Grab the driver's side wheel and turn it.
That way I can look in the timing hole and line up the marks.

 I usually rotate the engine by putting a socket on it to get close first.
But I can't see the timing marks from that end.

 Gotta turn the crank a couple times after a new belt to see how it tracks and make sure nothing is hitting.

 So yeah, that would kinda piss me off if I couldn't put a socket on that bolt.