Turbo 1.6NA checklist

[BuckyMK2]

Bit of a noob question. I had all my injectors and glow plugs out for cleaning and compression testing. Since I plan on pulling the head once I have parts on the way, I didn’t reconnect my glow plug bus bar. I did, however, thread the glow plugs in a bit to prevent air from leaking. I connected everything back up and I’m getting a crank no start. Pulled the fuel feed line that goes from the pump to injector #4, and no fuel is coming out. Is it normal to have to gravity feed the system after replacing things like injectors? Do I need to have the bus bar connected for the fuel shutoff solenoid to work or something? Not sure if the two are related. Should I be getting 12v to the shutoff solenoid when the car is in accessory? I get 12v to the top of the solenoid when the car is off, but I get 0v when it’s in accessory. Is this normal?

[fatmobile]

 So you get 12 volts at the stop solenoid on the pump when the car is turned off?
 And no voltage when the key is turned to acc, basically where the key is when driving?
That's not normal.

 You can't gravity feed the fuel system, it runs uphill from the tank to the pump.
To prime the pump; I put a vacuum on the output of the pump and pull fuel through the whole system.

 Do you have clear fuel lines to and from the pump?

[BuckyMK2]

I filled the pump to prime it a few times and it started up fine. Compression tested it while warm and got better psi than when it was cold. Got up to 450 psi after a few cranks. Got my G60 valve cover in for the CCV puck setup, more parts are in the works.

[BuckyMK2]

I've had a change of plans in my parts sourcing, it looks like I'll be getting a complete EcoDiesel 1.6td. Supposedly the motor ran when pulled , but that was 10+ years ago, so it's been sitting for a very long time. My initial plan was to pull the manifolds/turbo/oil pan etc and put them on my 1.6d, which has good oil pressure and compression (and then rebuilding the TD long block once I'm ready for more power or the NA blows up.) Is it even worth it to spend time trying to get the engine running on a stand and compression tested when I know I have a good NA motor? I've never dealt with something that's sat for this long...

[fatmobile]

 Yeah, you hate to rebuild an engine if it's good.
 I usually try turning the crank with a socket to check compression.

[BuckyMK2]

Parts sourcing has been an adventure but I'm starting to get things finalized. Picking up an OEM EcoDiesel K14 in need of a rebuild this weekend, I'll send it off to GPopShop once progress starts to pick up. The seller switched from K14 to K24 but didn't have to change the oil return line which I found surprising, I've heard from multiple people that they are not interchangeable. I keep trying to diagnose my glow plug issue even though my car is 400 miles away...can anyone confirm or deny that a bad glow plug relay causes the glow plug dash light to go out? (CE2)

[ORCoaster]

Bucky I had a bad connection in the base of the GP relay and the light on the dash would not light up.  If I reached up under the dash and pushed on the base it would connect some wire and I could start the truck in the cold at least.  I have since pulled all the wires off the base and have it sitting on my workbench.  All connections are just crimped and taped to the rest of the relay without the plastic base on it. 

The problem I had was some of the connections lacked that little metal finger, read that middle finger if you will, because that is what it was telling me.  I could insert the wire connection on the spade in the relay but it would just pull or work its way back out again at the worst possible time.

Cold mornings and late to work generally. 

I have not had any issues since I have the wires all taped up now.

And I am not getting to work late either. 

[BuckyMK2]

Interesting, I'll check the connection before ordering another relay. Thanks!

[BuckyMK2]

Picked up the K14 today found some interesting stuff. The seller said it was leaking oil so he assumed the seals were bad. However, the turbo has virtually no shaft play (aside from the amount that's to be expected.) Correct me if I'm wrong, but it's usually excessive shaft play that causes oil seals to go bad. I'm really wondering if there was something going on with the return line. I've heard from multiple people on this forum, as well as a shop that specializes in these IDIs that the oil return line is NOT compatible between K14s and K24s. The seller said he didn't change the return line when he swapped turbos. I wish I knew the difference between the return lines to find out if it's "possible" to connect one turbo to the other return line, but the seal isn't good or there's a difference in the diameter of the ports. If anyone knows please let me know!

[fatmobile]

If you get on it, raise the EGTs and turbo temperature then shut it off,
 the exhaust seal can carbon up, it's the closest seal to the exhaust.
Then it will leak into the exhaust.

[ORCoaster]

Not sure if you can swap between turbos using the same oil line. 

I check for an oil leak by applying about 5 to 10 lbs of air pressure on the inlet of the oil line and plugging the outlet.  Then I listen to it for leaks.  Then I slowly put up to 20 lbs on there.  I know sometimes the oil pressure will be much higher but for a quick test this seems to tell me what I need to know.

[chi1337]

I've done a NA to turbo conversion recently (nearly done), here's some things that might help you;

Oil feed line:
I converted everything to AN4.

I dont use oil source at oil filter, but I think its M10x1:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000557788387.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.17.292279d2mrucmK

I got the 36 inch;
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005195080278.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.210.292279d2mrucmK

Also my turbo (VNT15) takes M10x10

What I do is I run it from the head's oil sensor;


My head is mechanic so I figure it doesn't need as much oil as the hydraulic one.

Valve cover
Turbo will pressure the crank case more than NA, the camshaft plastic plates all got warped, so I added first an oil catch can instead. Although it filters out all the oil there's alot of it. After adding the puck before the oilcatchcan it almost got rid of all the oil; I got the  OE 028 129 101 E one from the Golf 4 https://www.autodoc.nl/febi-bilstein/8764455

You can take the old breatherhose and it will fit this puck really nicely.

Maybe you can only with the puck (and no oil catch can). I did a little test and it doesn't seem to throw oil like before;
Before; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rDFbu9EiCSU
After; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2g3YFQouhjo

Oil cooler
I've done some investigations on the oil cooler, what water coolant pipes to route it over etc etc. From what I understand it's mostly used to get the oil temperature up to speed quicker. If you don't overheat things and change oil frequently I think it should be fine.

Oil pan connector
I converted things to AN10;
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32402577938.html?spm=a2g0o.order_detail.order_detail_item.9.6ac9f19cxpE3s6 for the turbo

I got the "no weld" fitting;
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G6AflG3k3io

To be honest, for my piece of mind I would get a welded one. The teflon seal is very flimsy and if you overtorque it (like I did) it gets squashed. No oil leaks though (yet) but I'll probably redo it with a welded one in the future.

Also to get the return line just the right length is kindof hard, its now like this and leaking a from the return connector of the turbo. I'll properly tighten up everything soon


The original one (the right with red connectors) was rubbing against the driveshaft

I also added a blow of valve on the intake side to 14psi (1 bar) to prevent overboost. No intercooler though, I'll run it at low boost (5 - 10psi). Piping is as follows (I can give you all the specific items if you want);


Note the fuel filter, it's very sturdy even on 1 leg


Final result is here;
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YULKMPq0eE4

After attaching downpipe the turbo spool sound disappeared I'll maybe do a muffler delete later on (and keep the resonator)

[fatmobile]

  That's how I have to mount my fuel filter too.

[BuckyMK2]

Thanks for all the help! Since I have a donor 1.6td I was just gonna use the PCV setup from that. Would you still recommend adding a catch can? And I’ve heard similar things about the oil cooler being more of an oil heater haha.

[chi1337]

Thanks for all the help! Since I have a donor 1.6td I was just gonna use the PCV setup from that. Would you still recommend adding a catch can? And I’ve heard similar things about the oil cooler being more of an oil heater haha.

hey, I did some tests today. Both puck & catchcan is way too restrictive. There's almost no crank case gasses that get through.
I'm going to run with PCV puck only for now, it seems to remove like 90% of the oil that gets pushed out.