Where to buy timing tools

[Cadbury]

I am looking to time my current engine and rebuild a spare I have to eventually swap in. My car runs okay, but smokes a lot, even with the screw turned all the way in. I want to verify timing of everything but I can’t find any good current info on where to buy decent quality timing tools for this engine. I know there are lots of hacks, but I’d prefer to do it correctly if I’m going to invest time and money into this car. If anyone can point me in the correct direction, I’d be grateful. There is a set on eBay for $69, but it has mixed reviews.

Thank you!

[Cadbury]

I should have stated that my car is a 1984 Rabbit 1.6L IDI 4-speed.

[fatmobile]

 Just my opinion.

 Other than a pulse detector and timing light.
Timing tools are a waste of money.
They will only get you in the right area and you can get there without them.
They don't take the injectors into account.

 Cam locker can be replaced with anything. Some use a door hinge.
 I like using the 10/13 wrench that comes with the spare tire tool kit. I think it was made for it.

 Injection pump just needs the marks lined up.
 Then adjust it after it's started using the cold start lever.
 See how it cold starts with it pulled out, push it in see if it spins faster. Listen for clatter change.

 Timing belt tensioner is just to see how much it flaps between the crank and idler as you rev it.

With a pulse detector you set it for 12BTDC,.. there's a block on the flywheel right at 12BTDC.

 I do like having the 2-pronged timing tensioner wrench though.

[Cadbury]

When it comes to adjusting the IP, I’m assuming it’s best to do it at operating temperature and listen for a clatter change? I have the injection(?) screw turned in all of the way and then backed it out 1/8 turn, but still getting a fair amount of white smoke on throttle, especially if it’s been idling a minute, like at a stop light. I would assume this is an IP timing issue? The factory clamp is still installed on the adjusting screw.

Sorry, this is my first diesel and the Bentley doesn’t explain things too well with this.

[sgnimj96]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/394210810482?hash=item5bc8cb9a72:g:wwgAAOSwAbVeMlWv&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAoBNAFToQ0lXjohHGgGiv6T16NsO3WGNpvfuPikW1MG3i%2Bho%2FgBIEBgTsFHzJtRuMrEgeJZWijMGG3VaRnoiv9otq6Jy4Y5Mp5391T%2BNJAGEJpVYEAxCRiijJ8PV6NwAm5MoYeBH6l%2FapsDuWs7IIpfogIZv%2F5tOqJvSn0j69DeB7wNJGzPcRtdjaqZwWszcbs4FWVtYsEaiDl8ZzQiNUymI%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR5ziyMG0YQ
Check before buying that ebay listing,  it may NOT come with adapter and stem
https://www.hansautoparts.com/VW-Diesel-Dial-Gauge.aspx
People say the HF door hinge works for the cam lock,   11mm socket (1/4 deep) for the pump lock.
I made a tensioner tool out of a stout dinner fork,  works.  Some people just tension that pulley with their hand.

[fatmobile]

White smoke could be retarded timing.
 Especially if it also stumbles when you cold start it.

 White smoke can be caused by air in the fuel.
 Clear lines to and from the pump will let you see if that is happening.

 A pissy injector can also cause white smoke.

 That max fuel screw could cause excessive black smoke.

You came to the right place if you want to learn how to get your VW diesel running right.
 There are still some people here with a lot of experience with them and are glad to help you.

[Cadbury]

I’ve considered just getting new injectors and seeing if that helps. The car starts up okay, but does seem to stumble for a few seconds. It also cranks for about 5-10 seconds in initial start after sitting for a few days before it kicks over. I’m mainly waiting on a battery to get here to start looking at the running issue as the jump box is pretty cumbersome. I want to clear up the smoke issue as much as I can before driving it so I’m not blinding people.

As for the dial indicators, it looks like neither one comes with the adapter. On the second link, is the adapter extra, or is that the adapter in the picture with the kit?

Also, just to make sure I’m looking at the adjustment screw correctly, turning it clockwise reduces fuel volume and counter-clockwise increases fuel volume, correct?

I appreciate all of the help!

[fatmobile]

When you turn the max fuel screw in, you increase fuel.
The collar is there to keep you from adding too much fuel.

Play with the cold start lever after startup and see what happens.

 You didn't mention if you have clear fuel lines.

[Cadbury]

I don’t have clear fuel lines. Any particular place to get them or just any auto parts store?

As for the cold start lever, are you talking about the lever on the backside that the cold start cable is attached to?

[ORCoaster]

Yes cold start lever on the back of the IP.  If you look at the knob and it still has it's markings on it you will see a C with an S inside of it.  Hence cold start lever, not Choke and some seem to refer to it as.

[fatmobile]

Even 1/4" clear vinyl from the local hardware store will work as fuel line for over a year.

2ft for filter to pump and another 3 ft to get from the pump back to the metal fuel return line,...
maybe a little more than 3ft so check my numbers.

[Cadbury]

Thanks for the info. There are no knobs in the car, in fact there was no cluster, HVAC controls, relays, horn button, or vents inside. It was also missing the headlights, front turn signals, grill, and LF fender. It’s been a journey with this thing piecing it back together. Pulling the cold start out doesn’t really seem to do much of anything, but then again I keep forgetting to pull it out on cold start.

The PO’s friend “rebuilt” the IP, so I’m guessing I need to make some adjustments with it as I doubt the adjustments were done correctly. Seems like they were done more by “feel” than measurements as he told me he never intended to use the car on the road, just around his farm, so he didn’t care about the smoke. Once I got a new glow plug relay, the car starts well, just need to make adjustments.

Is there a rule of thumb for adjusting the fuel screw? I have backed it out and noticed the idle drop, but just didn’t know if there was a basic setting (number of turns) from the collar as a good starting point. I have noticed that due to how rich it seems to be, it doesn’t take long to create soot spots on the ground (the PO also cut the muffler off at the rear axle, so the exhaust points to the ground; I have the muffler, just need to weld it back on).

The car appears to have been taken care of earlier in it’s life, but then has been robbed of parts by either the PO or the person before that, so trying to put it back together to make it roadworthy at this point. I’ve since acquired most of the parts I need to get it back on the road, just need new tires at this point.